THE 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING 



OR s 



JERUSALEM AS IT WAS, 



AS IT is, 



AND AS IT IS TO BE. 



BY 



J. T. BARCLAY, M.D., 



MISSIONARY TO JERUSALEM. 



Beautiful for situation, the joy of the ivhole earth is Mount Zion— the City of the Great 





PHILADELPHIA: 
JAMES C HALLE N AND SONS, 

BULLETIN" BUILDINGS. 
J. B. LIPPINCOTT & CO., NO. 20 NORTH FOURTH STREET. 



t 



Entered, according to act of Congress, in the year 1857, by 

JAMES CHALLEN & SONS, 

In fhe Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States, in and for the Eastern 
District of Pennsylvania. 

STEREOTYPED BY MEARS & DUSENBERY. PRINTED BY HENRY B. ASHMEAD. 



ma 



PUBLISHEKS' ANNOUNCEMENT. 



This work is presented to the public, believing that much will be 
found in it of great interest and value to all classes of the religious 
world, and to those who would see the hand of Providence in the 
history and fortunes of Israel, and the nations with whom they have 
been associated, for more than three thousand years. 

The name of Dr. Barclay — a resident missionary in Jerusalem 
for three years and a half, is now favorably known, both in Europe 
and in this country, for the valuable discoveries he has made in the 
Temple Enclosure and other sacred localities, to which he was 
admitted by special firman, and for the aids he has furnished to 
many distinguished tourists, in the Holy Land, which have been in 
all their recent works repeatedly acknowledged. 

« The City of the Great King," on every page of it, shows the 
extent and accuracy of his labors ; and his Map of Jerusalem, now 
before the public, is justly esteemed the only reliable one known. 
His close observation of facts and conscientious adherence to truth, 
together with his long and patient labors in the prosecution of his 

(3) 



iv 



PUBLISHERS' ANNOUNCEMENT. 



task, cannot fail to commend this book to the confidence of the 
public. 

The Portrait of the Author is a waif, from the hands of the Pub- 
lishers, given at the request of numerous friends in view of his 
immediate return to Palestine, probably to be seen no more amongst 
us. It is from a photograph by McClees, and reflects great credit 
upon the eminent artist, John Sartain, by whom it was executed. 

The Steel Engravings, by Messrs. Buttre, Earle, and Dick, are 
gems of the first value. 

The Chromographs and Lithographs, by L. N. Rosenthal, reflect 
the highest credit upon his establishment. 

The Wood Engravings, by Messrs. Louderback & Hoffmann, from 
original designs by Moore ; and J. H. Byram from transfers, are 
unequalled. 

The Publishers, having spared no pains or expense, to meet the 
demands of the public, cheerfully commit the work to their hands. 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. 



PAGE 

INTRODUCTION - - 11 

GLOSSARY 23 

Chapter I.— GENERAL OBSERVATIONS 43 

II.— LOCAL FEATURES OP CITY AND ENVIRONS .... 57 

III. — LOCAL FEATURES CONTINUED 88 

IV. — VARIOUS QUARTERS OF THE CITY 107 

V. — WALLS — FROM MELCHISEDEC TO ZEDEKIAH 119 

VI.— TOWERS, GATES, ETC. 147 

VII.— CASTLES, CITADELS, FORTRESSES, PALACES, ETC. - - - - 164 

VIII. — TOMBS AND SEPULCHRAL MONUMENTS 179 

IX.— THE TEMPLE 239 

X.— WATER SUPPLY OF JERUSALEM 291 

XL— THE CITY FROM ITS SUBVERSION BY TITUS TO ITS CAPTURE BY THE 

SARACENS 333 

XII.— THE CITY UNDER THE MOSLEMS — SARACENS, EGYPTIANS, AND TURKS 337 

Xm.— THE CITY UNDER CHRISTIAN DOMINATION 361 

(5) 



vi 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. 



PAGE 

Chapter XIV. — THE CITY UNDER THE TURKS .... - - - 407 

XV . — JERUSALEM AS IT NOW IS— CLIMATE AND PRODUCTIONS - - 414 

XVI. — WALLS, GATES, TOWERS, ETC. - 429 

XVII.— HARAM ESH-SIIERIF - - - - - - - - 470 

XVIII.— WATER RESOURCES OF THE CITY 512 

XIX. — WATERS BEYOND THE IMMEDIATE ENVIRONS - 544 

XX.— MISSIONARY OPERATIONS 580 

XXI.— MILLENNIAL PHASIS OP THE CITY AND HOLY OBLATION - - 604 



ILLUSTRATIONS. 



&Uz\ (Engrabings. 

ENGRAVED BY PAGE 

PORTRAIT OF THE AUTHOR ....... j HX SARTAIN 

TOWER OF HIPPICUS, CHURCH OF YACOBEIA, ANGLICAN CHURCH, AND CONSULATE AV. H. EARLE - 43 

TOMBS OF THE KINGS - - - - - - ... DKJK - - 179 

CHURCH OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE - - - - - - J. C. BUTTRE - - 219 

MOUNT OLIVET, GETHSEMANE, ETC., FROM ST. STEPHEN'S GATE - - DICK - - - 599 

Illuminations. 

TOMB OF DATED - • - - - - - - - L. N. ROSENTHAL - 20S 

TEMPLE MOUNT AND OLIVET, FROM ZION - - - - - L. N. ROSENTHAL - 239 

INTERIOR OF THE MOSK OF OMAR - - - - - - L. N. ROSENTHAL 470 

fitljograjjljs. 

PANORAMA OF JERUSALEM, FROM THE SOUTH - - - - - L. N. ROSENTHAL - 88 

PANORAMA OF JERUSALEM, FROM THE NORTH - - - L. N. ROSENTHAL - 415 

PANORAMA OF JERUSALEM, FROM THE 'WEST - - - - - L. N. ROSENTHAL - 429 

PANORAMA OF JERUSALEM, FROM THE EAST - - - - L. N. ROSENTHAL - 471 

ANCIENT JERUSALEM, FROM THE SOUTH - - - - - L. N. ROSENTHAL - 107 

MAP OF ANCIENT JERUSALEM - - - - - - L. N. ROSENTHAL - 57 

MAP OF MEDLEVAL JERUSALEM - - - - - - - L. N. ROSENTHAL - 407 

MAP OF MODERN JERUSALEM - - - - - L. N. ROSENTHAL - 431 

GROUND PLAN OF TEMPLE AREA ... - - - L. N. ROSENTHAL • 291 

m 



viii 



ILLUSTRATIONS. 



iNGRAVED BY PAGE 

ASCENSION FROM MOUNT OLIVET ..... ^OUDERBACK & HOFFMANN 68 

REMAINS AT DAMASCUS GATE— ANCIENT TOWER ROOM - - - BTRAM - 132 

GROUND FLAN OF ROOM AND WINDING STAIRWAY IN TOWER AT DAMASCUS GATE BTRAM - - - 133 

SARCOPHAGUS FROM KUBR EL-MOLUK ..... BTRAM - - 172 

JEWISH TOMB AT EL-MESSAHNEY BTRAM - - 183 

PLAN OF EL-MESSAHNEY TOMB - - - - - BTRAM - - 185 

TOMBS OF THE JUDGES - - - - - - - BTRAM - - - 186 

PLAN OF THE TOMB — SUPPOSED TO BE QUEEN HELENA'S - - • BTRAM - - 190 

KUBR MOLUK— TOMBS OF THE KINGS ------ BTRAM - - - 192 

PLAN OF THE TOMBS OF THE KINGS - - - - - , - BTRAM - - 194 

TOMBS OF THE PROPHETS ....... BYRAM - - - 198 

TOMBS IN FIELD OF ACELDAMA BYRAM - - 206 

AMERICAN CEMETERY— NEAR NEBY DAUD ..... BYRAM - - - 218 

PLAN OF CHURCH OF HOLY SEPULCHRE - BYRAM - - 231 

HAMMAM ES-SHERIF - - - - - - - . BYRAM ... 232 

ROTUNDA AND MAUSOLEUM OF CHURCH OF HOLY SEPULCHRE - - BYRAM - - 234 

MAUSOLEUM OF CHURCH OF HOLY SEPULCHRE ----- BYRAM - - - 235 

TRADITIONAL MOUTH OF THE CAVE OF ST. MARY - BYRAM - - 317 

REMAINS OF JEWISH TOWER NEAR THE SERAGLIO - BYRAM - - - 430 

INTERIOR OF A JERUSALEM HOUSE ...... BYRAM - - 436 

AMERICAN CHRISTIAN MISSION PREMISES - LOUDERBACK & HOFFMANN 438 

PALACE OF ARMENIAN PATRIARCH, AND CONVENT OF ST. JAMES - - BYRAM - - 445 

SITE OF FORT ANTONIA ........ LOUDERBACK & HOFFMANN 451 

SARACENIC FOUNTAIN ....... LOUDERBACK & HOFFMANN 453 

THE GREAT QUARRY CAVERN ....... LOUDERBACK & HOFFMANN 459 

HULDAH'S GATE - ..... LOUDERBACK & HOFFMANN 48S 

LINTEL OF ANCIENT GATEWAY OF TEMPLE ..... BYRAM - - - 489 

OLD PORTAL IN WEST WALL OF TEMPLE ENCLOSURE - LOUDERBACK & HOFFMANN 490 

WAILING PLACE OF THE JEWS - - - - - - . LOUDERBACK & HOFFMANN 493 

SUBSTRUCTION IN SOUTH-EAST ANGLE OF TEMPLE ENCLOSURE - - LOUDERBACK & HOFFMANN 504 

SUBSTRUCTURES OF EL-AKSA ....... LOUDERBACK & HOFFMANN 510 

VIRGIN'S FOUNT - - - - - - - BYRAM - - 517 

FLAN OF VIRGIN'S FOUNT ....... BYRAM - - - 519 

POOL OF SILOAM ........ BYRAM - - 525 

THE ROYAL CISTERN OF TH2 TEMPLE - - - - - - LOUDERBACK & HOFFMANN 526 



ILLUSTRATIONS. 



ix 



ENGRAVED BY PAGS 

PLAN OF HAMMAM ES-SHEFA - - - - - - - BYRAM - - 534 

POOL OF HEZEE3AH LOUDERBACE & HOFFMANN 537 

AIN LTFTA — NEPHTOAH LOUDERBACE k HOFFMANN 544 

PLAN OF POOL AT NEBT SAMWIL ....... BYRAM - - - 550 

THE FOUNTAIN SEALED ....... LOUDERBACE & HOFFMANN 552 

KL-BURAE— SOLOMON'S TOOLS - - - - - - LOUDERBACE & HOFFMANN 554 

WADY FARAH — jENON ... ... LOUDERBACE & HOFFMANN 559 

VALLEY OF JEHOSHAPHAT ....... LOUDERBACE & HOFFMANN 603 

MILLENNIAL DIVISIONS OF THE HOL* LAND - - - - . BYRAM - - 609 

THE HOLY OBLATION* .... .... BYRAM - - - 611 



INTRODUCTION. 



On presenting, for the consideration of the public, a new treatise upon a theme 
so often discussed as the general subject-matter of this volume, a few explanatory 
observations — demanded alike by the interests of the reader, the writer, and the 
subject itself — may properly be submitted, by way both of preface and apology. 

In this Augustan age of electro-magnetic progression, when time is not only 
the convertible representative of knowledge, power, and pleasure, but — manu- 
factured — is the equivalent of that "which answereth all things;" and, indeed, 
is the very warp and woof of which the web of life is woven — most evident is it 
that no one has a right to consume his neighbor's time without rendering a valid 
" quid pro quo" in return for the expenditure of a commodity so invaluable. 
" Ars longa est — vita brevis." And this apothem is especially applicable in this 
utilitarian age, when the prolific steam press teems with publications on all sub- 
jects ; and is particularly exuberant in works on Palestine and the Holy City. 
In announcing a new work, therefore, upon a theme so hackneyed, a few prefatory 
remarks are equally the dictate of propriety and policy — for truly " of making- 
many books" on this subject "there is no end and of the remunerative circu- 
lation of not a few there is not even a beginning. 

Although the author has been much interested and engaged in studies of 
kindred character for more than a score of years, yet he entertained no idea of 
publishing a work on the subject, even after two or three years' residence in 
Palestine, until a propitious Providence placed him in possession of such inte- 
resting and important information, that such a publication became loudly 
demanded by considerations too imperative to be slighted. For, what plea could 
be urged that would justify him before the tribunal of an enlightened commu- 

(11) 



xii 



INTRODUCTION. 



nity, in withholding earnestly desired information, on matters so profoundly 
interesting ! Jerusalem ! " Name ever dear !" "What hallowed memories and 
entrancing recollections spring at the mere mention of that name ! There is 
music and magic in the very thought ! Jerusalem, the joy of the whole earth ! 
The city of the Great King ! Zion, the city of solemnities — an eternal excellency ! 
" The hill which God desire th to dwell in: yea, will dwell in it for ever I" The 
theater of the most memorable and stupendous events that have ever occurred 
in the annals of the world. Jerusalem ! the world-attracting magnet of the 
devout pilgrim of every age, and the stern warrior of every clime ; not the least 
of whom were the chivalrous Crusaders of our noble ancestry ! a spot at once 
the focus and the radiating point of the strongest emotions of three powerful 
religions! The land of hallowed associations, endearing reminiscences, and 
glorious anticipations ! The renowned metropolis of the children of miracle, of 
prophecy, of promise, and of Providence — a people near and dear unto the Lord, 
and still beloved for their fathers' sakes ! 

What are the recollections associated with the monuments and antiquities of 
Memphis, Babylon, Nineveh, Athens, Rome, London, or the cities of the Azteks, 
compared with those that cluster around the City of the Great King! — whose 
antiquity is of ancient days — even the days of the great diluvian patriarch 
Shem ! — the city where the " King of Peace and Righteousness" communed 
with the " Friend of God" — where the son of Jesse tuned his soul-stirring harp, 
and penned his Psalms for the saints of all ages ; where Solomon reared a house 
for the Lord of Hosts to dwell between the Cherubim ; where the Son of God 
suffered and died, and rose again — whence he ascended on high, and whither he 
will come again on the clouds of heaven in like manner as he went up — " and 
his feet shall stand in that day upon the Mount of Olives," and " Jehovah of 
Hosts shall reign in Mount Zion and in Jerusalem, and before his ancients glori- 
ously," sitting upon his throne in the sublime metropolis (then brought near) — 
the New Jerusalem above. Then shall the Holy City truly become " the joy of 
the whole earth !" 

"Glorious things of thee are spoken, 
Zion, city of our God I" 

There are matters of momentous concern referable to the late Russo-Turkish 
war — that most anomalous of all wars — the significant issue and results of 
which will tell mightily upon earth's destiny, and invest the Jews and their 
capital and country with unspeakable interest. "What mean the various lines of 
steamers now traversing the length and breadth of the Mediterranean and Red 
Seas — placing Palestine in such direct, constant, and intimate communication 
not only with other parts of Asia, but with Europe, Africa, America, and the 



INTRODUCTION. 



xiii 



Isles of the Gentiles? What the railways now projected between Jaffa and the 
Persian Gulf, via Neapolis, with which a branch from Egypt is to unite — passing 
through Jerusalem, a " highway" from Egypt into Assyria? (Is. xix. 23.) And 
what the electric telegraph at the Holy City — the great central metropolis ! — to 
say nothing of the stupendous scheme of converting the great depressed basin 
'of Arabia Deserta into an inland ocean by letting in the waters of the Bed Sea I 
Above all, what means the astonishing fact that the Sultan has not only made 
an oblation of the Churches of St. Anne, the Nativity, the Holy Sepulcher, and 
various other " holy shrines" to the Emperor of the French, but has also given 
him decidedly the largest and finest square in the Holy City — the site of the 
Palace of the Knights of St. John — that he may " plant the tabernacle of his 
palace between the seas, in the glorious holy mountain !" The right of appoint- 
ing to the high office of " Guardian of the Hill of Zion, and Custodian of the 
Holy Land," is thus conferred upon Louis Napoleon, the acknowledged patron 
of the Latin Church, who — laugh as we may at his assumed title of " Son of 
Destiny" — is nevertheless, beyond all comparison, the most extraordinary per- 
sonage of the age. 

A surprising tide of enterprise is already setting in toward the East, in anti- 
cipation of the general breaking up of the Turkish Empire and the enfranchise- 
ment of the Jews. The mightiest monarchs on earth are looking with the most 
profound interest to the Holy Land. Oriental revival is the general order of the 
day : and that this remarkable tract of country lying between the Euphrates 
and the Mediterranean, the Arabian Desert and Mount Amanus — " the glory of 
all lands" — " the delightsome land," as the Lord of Hosts styles it — will receive 
the first and largest share -of this improvement, is most obvious.* 

There are truly matters of great interest and grave significancy in connexion 
with the very liberal firman lately issued by the humbled successor of Moham- 
med. A very few years ago, no Frank — whether Jew or Christian — was per- 
mitted to depose in a Mohammedan court of justice : he was not permitted to 
build a house of worship, nor could he own a foot of land : and if a Moham- 
medan abandoned his religion and became either a Jew or Christian, death and 



* The highest expectations are justly entertained 
in relation to the Jewish enterprise recently set on 
foot at Jaffa, mainly through the efforts of that 
zealous friend of Israel (himself an Israelite in- 
deed)— the Rev. Ridley Hersehel. It is now under 
the able management of another zealous friend of 
Israel — Mr. Hershon — from whose devotion and 
energy much good may be confidently expected. 
The zeal manifested also in behalf of Israel by H. 
B. M. consul, and his accomplished lady, is equally 
creditable to them and to their government ; and 



can but be greatly promotive of their best in- 
terests. 

The unpretending but efficient colony of Ameri- 
cans, first organized under the zealous advocacy of 
the late Mrs. Minor, has by no means proved an 
abortion, as is sometimes asserted, but has accom- 
plished much for agriculture at Jaffa (its present 
seat of operations), as well as at Bethlehem, where it 
was first established. And the self-denying and 
untiring labors of the devoted Miss Williams, in 
behalf of education and mo, a/lty, cannot well be 
too highly estimated. 



xiv 



INTRODUCTION. 



confiscation were the inevitable consequences. But now he can testify on a per- 
fect equality with the Faithful: he is permitted to build houses of any kind with- 
out let or hindrance : he can not only own land or any other kind of property in 
fee simple, but sit securely under his own vine and fig-tree — no man daring to 
molest him : and a Mohammedan may change his religion without forfeiting 
either his property or his life. And not only are foreigners permitted to own* 
property, but by a late firman they are actually invited to come to Palestine or 
any other portion of the Ottoman Empire, and occupy as much land as they may 
desire — paying nothing for twelve years, and subsequently only one-fifth — receiv- 
ing at the expiration of twenty-one years a complete title. " Lo ! what God hath 
wrought I" The wrath of man hath he caused to praise him, and the remainder 
hath he restrained. 

« And what is all this but a Bath-kol of Providence — the voice of " a man" of 
Palestine — seen in vision, praying us to come over and help them ! Now, from 
all these Providential facts and indications, should we not " assuredly gather that 
the Lord hath called us for to preach the gospel unto them V And trusting in 
the God of Abraham, Isaac, and Israel, are we not " well able to go over and 
possess the land V These astonishing concessions on the part of the Turk — 
though brought about at the solicitation of the Anglo-French alliance — are the 
Lord's doing, and marvellous in our eyes. Surely the water of the Euphrates, 
at least so far as it may be regarded as a barrier to the restoration of the Jews, 
is effectually dried up, and the times of the Gentiles fulfilled ! The relaxing 
grasp of the bigoted Rabbin is another sign of the times scarcely less astonishing 
and auspicious ; and well calculated to arrest the attention of all that would 
profit by discerning the face of the moral and political sky. The immediately 
pending future is doubtless big with momentous events concerning Zion and 
Israel, and well does it behoove us to discern the signs of the times, and turn 
our eyes toward the devoted, down-trodden, neglected, but still Heaven-remem- 
bered city. 

The Author, having enjoyed, in every aspect of the matter, opportunities and 
facilities for research and observation possessed by no one in modern times, ventures 
to ask the reader's special consideration of the results of his investigations. During 
a residence of three and a half years in Jerusalem, in the double capacity of phy- 
sician and missionary, he has enjoyed the most unrestrained intercourse with all 
classes of Syrian population — from the haughty Basha, down to the humblest 
Jew, Frank, or Fellah ; and has thus become acquainted with the undercurrent 
of Oriental society, which the mere tourist or pilgrim could never do. But a 
mere residence under such circumstances — favorable and indispensable as it is 
to accurate observation and research — constitutes but a small item in the list of 
advantages enjoyed. 



INTRODUCTION. 



Having succeeded in relieving of a disagreeable affection the Turkish Effendi 
sent to Jerusalem as architect by the Sultan, for the purpose of repairing the 
Mosk of Omar and other (so called) sacred edifices, he petitioned the Mejlis or 
Congress of Jerusalem for permission to associate me with him in designing the 
necessary repairs, alterations, and decorations — actuated, no doubt, as much 
by a desire to avail himself of the use of some philosophical instruments 
J happened to have as through gratitude for the cure, or from apprecia- 
tion of my technic abilities — exalted as was his professed estimate of them ! 
And his request being finally granted, despite all opposition, I thus enjoyed free 
access to every part of the ancient Temple area, and other " holy places," that 
have been seen by no Christian eye since the chivalric but unenlightened era of 
Frank domination; but on the contrary have been most jealously tabooed, and 
securely guarded against Christian observation under penalty of death or the 
far worse alternative of Islamism. By means of such facilities I have been 
enabled not only satisfactorily to solve many doubts and remove many difficul- 
ties that have heretofore obscured the subject, but to make many interesting dis- 
coveries. 

I had also the good fortune to make some discoveries of the highest interest 
and importance to Biblical archaeology and topography in the environs of the 
city, during the long period of convalescence from an attack of the Syrian fever, 
when it became necessary to tabernacle without the walls, and take much 
exercise. 

The publication of the "Biblical Researches" of Drs. Robinson and Smith 
has indeed constituted a new era in Biblical chorography and archaeology, as 
well as geography ; yet important and abundant as their labors confessedly have 
been, it was impossible for them to remove all the heaps of rubbish, which, in 
the lapse of centuries of monkish, ignorance, superstition, and pious speculation, 
have so effectually inhumed many hallowed sites of interesting Scripture trans- 
actions. 

Many others have also done valuable service in elucidating to some extent the 
greater portion of the vexed questions concerning the topography and archaeology 
of ancient Jerusalem, and in portraying its present condition. But their labors 
lie scattered here and there, through many volumes — mixed too often with much 
chafiy speculation and irrelevant matter, from which it is impossible for the 
general reader to winnow successfully the genuine grains of truth. And even 
to this day, a complete, reliable manual of J erusalem as it was, or even J eru- 
salem as it is, remains a desideratum. In so saying, however, I mean no dis- 
paragement to the many excellent men and polished scholars, who have written 
upon this much involved question ; for they have accomplished as much as could 

well be expected under the circumstances of the case — their limited sojourn at 
2 



xvi 



INTRODUCTION. 



Jerusalem, and restricted opportunities of investigation, under the watchful 
eye of jealous Turkish authority, Jewish bigotry, and Christian superstition. 
And it is with no view of supplanting, nor in the slightest degree disparaging, 
such authors that I print ; but rather with the hope of rendering the perusal of 
their works more intelligible, interesting, and satisfactory, by means of accurate 
maps and other adjuvant illustrations. 

With the numerous productions of that large class of tourists and pilgrims, 
who have blindly taken oral tradition as their guide, these pages will be found 
in a continual state of antagonism. 

The ungracious task, however, of turning out of the way formally to correct 
every little error, will by no means be attempted ; yet there are many mistakes 
of serious import sanctioned by such high authority, and so long stereotyped, 
not only by traditionists and plagiarists, but by respectable, independent inves- 
tigators, that they have at last come to be regarded as topographically orthodox : 
the correction of such errors as these is deemed matter of prime importance, and 
will consequently receive due attention — though by so doing, the Author should 
be regarded as invidiously in the estimation of some, as were the explorers sent 
out in days of yore to " spy out the land of Canaan, in the sight of the Ana- 
kims." While it is entirely true that formal explorations of sacred localities (as 
is alleged in palliation of these errors) are ordinarily attended with considerable 
danger ; and even mere superficial reconnoissances of many places rather hazard- 
ous ; yet, making all due allowance on this score, and for the additional considera- 
tion that no place on all the earth has been so completely subjected to the process 
of overturning and levelling as Jerusalem, it is yet not a little singular that so 
few antiquarian discoveries should have been made in a city, certainly one of 
the most ancient in all the world, and confessedly the most interesting. And 
not only is such the case, but unfortunately it is but too true, that in many things 
relating to the topography and archaeology of the Holy City, the greatest names 
can be quoted in support of the greatest blunders ! 

" Nether Jerusalem" being a field of research, which, however interesting 
and important, has been heretofore almost entirely neglected, much attention 
has been devoted to its exploration. And amongst other interesting matters of 
research, the much complicated and mystified subject of the water resources of 
Jerusalem has received due attention. The illustration of numerous obscure 
topical passages of Scripture being a leading object of this work, the critical 
student of the Bible will readily excuse the time and space devoted to several 
matters of topographical character, that have generally been considered rather 
difficult of solution, if not hopelessly inexplicable. The great importance of 
correctly understanding the works of Josephus has induced the author to bestow 
upon the writings of that eminent Jewish historian (whose admirable work is 



INTRODUCTION. 



xvii 



so highly confirmatory and elucidatory of the Sacred Record, and whose testi- 
mony it is so important to sustain), very special attention. And the interest 
naturally attaching to the events of the Crusades will doubtless plead a sufficient 
apology for the consideration bestowed upon the Mediaeval history and condition 
of the Holy City. No place whatever has been more frequently mapped and 
planned than Jerusalem and its environs : yet nothing is hazarded in saying 
that the Author's map is the only correct one in existence. But the Author 
knows too well the difficulties and dangers inseparable from a survey of Jerusa- 
lem and its vicinity, to be censorious on this score. Indeed, but for the ready 
passport to Moslem favor, afforded by the medical services of a generally known 
and somewhat naturalized resident, it could have made no pretensions to the 
minute accuracy now so confidently claimed for it. 

The pictorial illustrations are almost entirely original ; and not only so, but 
owing to a fortunate circumstance that placed the Author in possession of excel- 
lent French photographic apparatus, are nearly all from photographs taken 
in special reference to topographical illustration. To his excellent friend Mr. 
Graham, of the English Mission, he is also deeply indebted for valuable contri- 
butions of this character. To insure the greatest possible accuracy, duplicates 
of many of these originals were also drawn in a large camera (or where lenses 
were unavailable, by a skilful pencil), and, being satisfactorily verified on com- 
parison with the objects portrayed, they may be regarded as fac similes of 
nature. The greater pains have been taken to insure the utmost accuracy, on 
account of the miserable caricatures that disgrace so many of our Bibles, and 
libel the Sacred Localities. The possession of such perfectly reliable maps, 
plans, diagrams, and pictures, will render superfluous much wearisome verbal 
description, and yet impart to the reader more accurate and vivid impressions 
than could possibly be conveyed by the most prolix and detailed explanations. 
And not only will the subject be far more efficiently, correctly, and indelibly 
impressed, by thus addressing the mind through the eye, but much valuable 
time and space be economized. To convey to the mind any adequate idea of 
complicated or unique structures by the pen, is as difficult as unsatisfactory — 
yet to do so pictorially is fortunately easy, effective, and satisfactory. 

The maps are all entirely original : and being carefully constructed, upon the 
spot, from actual and minute survey, with every requisite for insuring accuracy, 
may be regarded as entirely reliable. Great advantage has been derived from 
the possession of a large and accurate model of Jerusalem and its vicinity — espe- 
cially in the restoration of ancient Jerusalem. 

Owing to their complication with theological questions, deemed matters of 
paramount importance throughout the Orient, topographical theories differ to an 
extent that would be absolutely ridiculous were it not so serious a matter. It 



xviii 



INTRODUCTION 



might well be inferred from the works of Dr. Clark, Mr. Williams,, Herr Kraft. 
Mr. Ferguson, and Mons. de Saulcey, that, on the one hand, no topographical 
question about the Holy City was susceptible of satisfactory settlement (so diverse 
and opposite are their conclusions), and on the other, that localities which it is 
impossible in the very nature of things to identify, have been ascertained with 
all the certainty of mathematical demonstration. 

How many magnificent paper castles of Jerusalem, built of materials hastily 
gathered during a brief visit, or collected from the conflicting accounts of other 
travellers, or still worse, from the mere conjectures of an over-confident theorizer, 
who never even visited the spot, have I seen undermined and subverted by a few 
metrical appliances, and local matter-of-fact considerations ! In the " Choro- 
g-raphical Century of the Land of Israel/ 7 (chap. 23,) the learned Dr. Lightfoot 
thus sensibly cliscourseth — " Let us have leave not to esteem all things for oracles 
which they say, who now show those places, since it is plain enough that they 
mistake in many other things : and let it be without all controversy that they 
study not so much truth in that affair as their own gain. I wish less credit had 
been given to them, and more search had been made out of Scripture and other 
writers, concerning the situation of the places." The astonishing errors into 
which this great Biblical scholar suffered himself to fall, notwithstanding the 
foregoing excellent remarks, are well calculated to deter all others from topo- 
graphical theorizing without actual examination of the premises. The topo- 
graphic and cliagraphic representations of many — indeed nearly all sacred 
localities, as exhibited in the standard works on Jewish antiquities, are gross 
perversions, but little better than caricatures — the authors of these works having 
unfortunately adopted the fanciful scheme of Dr. Lightfoot, whose egregious 
mislocations of Zion, Siloam, Tophet, and the dividing line between Judah and 
Benjamin, are the fruitful sources of interminable and ludicrous blunders. But 
notwithstanding these fundamental errors, his work is one of profound research 
and rare excellence in nearly every other respect ; and is unequalled in all that 
pertains to the Temple Service. 

Few, indeed, can have any proper conception of the laborious investigation 
involved in bringing out the work attempted in these pages. To delve into the 
rubbish of Oriental ecclesiastical tradition, and evolve to view many of the 
Sacred Localities, thus inhumed more effectually than by the mortar, filth, and 
fragments of twenty centuries — has indeed been " a work of faith and a perse- 
verance of hope," if not "a labor of love." " Hoc opus, Jiic labor est!" but 
equally true is it that " Labor ipse voluptas!" 

Many points of the topography of Jerusalem are involved in such perplexing 
intricacy that they could never be eliminated by adhering to the present tradi- 
tional terminology of sacred topography, if we would thoroughly lay bare " the 



INTRODUCTION. 



foundations of many generations." It is therefore necessary sometimes to dis- 
regard the present traditional names, and give them their true designation — a 
fact that may perhaps at first rather shock the sensibilities of those who enter- 
tain an overweening regard for legends of antiquity ; but the candid reader is 
earnestly requested to hold his judgment in abeyance until he shall have read an 
exposition of all such articles. " Strike — but hear !" 

Knowing the value of a well digested chronological synopsis of the leading 
events of the Crusades, in connexion with the investigation of the antiquities of 
the Holy City, such a polymicrian time-and-space-saving compilation is given as 
will obviate the necessity of much tedious reference to historical works, and 
greatly facilitate the comprehension of the whole subject. 

The very full references to the Bible, Josephus, the Talmud, and " Fathers," 
impart to the work a rather fragmentary appearance, and may perhaps be 
regarded by some in the light of typographic blemishes ; but the critical reader, 
who feels a special interest in the subject, can but be gratified. All Bible refer- 
ences, not incorporated with the text, might well have been omitted, but for the 
unaccountable deficiency of all concordances in relation to the names of places, 
which renders such references indispensable to the full development of the sub- 
ject. The various matters involved in the consideration of the subject being 
all classified and treated systematically, great advantage can but accrue to the 
reader who would fully comprehend the subject. 

Being anxious to avoid even the semblance of personal controversy, I shall 
only refer to writers from whose views I dissent, when compelled to do so. The 
Author is aware that a larger amount of personal incident, however irrelevant 
to the main design of the work, would have been more acceptable to many read- 
ers, than such formal dissertations.* But in order to place the work within the 
reach of all that may desire information concerning the Holy City, he feels con- 
strained not only to restrict himself to that subject alone, but to study condensa- 
tion and facility of reference, by adopting an arrangement — even at the expense 
of good taste and certain other matters of minor importance — calculated to insure 
these desiderata. 

The same consideration also dictates the propriety of stating quite briefly all 
that is known of matters about which there is but little misunderstanding, in 
Order that more attention may be bestowed upon the elaboration of topics less 
understood and more involved in controversy ; and especially that the more room 
may be afforded for the discussion of matters not heretofore brought under con- 
sideration at all. 



* Many such details being given in the " History tian Missionary Society — the omission of such inci- 
of the Jerusalem Mission" compiled by D. S. Bur- dents in the present work is rendered the more 
nett, Corresponding Secretary of American Chris- proper. 



XX 



INTRODUCTION. 



On the same principle many beautiful photographs are withheld from publica- 
tion, simply because the public is already furnished with elegant and correct 
representations of the subjects alluded to, from the portfolios of Bartlett, Tipping, 
Catherwood, Roberts, and others — supplying them, however, by others perhaps 
equally as attractive and more subservient to the special end in view. The 
water supply of ancient Jerusalem, though a matter full of interest, neverthe- 
less has been strangely neglected, and hence the over-proportionate space devoted 
to that interesting topic. 

Mr. Williams well remarks that " it is an obscure and perplexing subject, that 
well deserves particular attention and with Mr. Ferguson, it must be conceded 
that it is a matter of the deepest interest, and of fundamental importance in the 
settlement of many points of topographical inquiry. 

There is perhaps no stronger aid and incentive to devotion, than the enlight- 
ened appreciation and proper improvement of pilgrimages to Sacred Localities ; 
for who is there — having a heart to feel and a mind to conceive — that can seat 
himself on Mount Olivet and not weep over Jerusalem — can walk about Zion 
and catch none of the spirit of David — gaze on Calvary and feel no emotion — 
pass down the Kedron unmoved and unblest ! and feel no rapture as he gazes on 
the Mount of Ascension ! Truly, neither the head nor the heart of that person 
is to be envied that manifests no interest in such a place as the Holy City ! that 
feels for it no yearning of heart, and derives no pleasure from even the inspec- 
tion of its faithful photographic and topographic portraiture. But though these 
hallowed spots, in giving a realizing view and impression of the truth of revela- 
tion (in no other way so richly to be enjoyed), do greatly enhance our devotional 
feelings ; yet it were enough to make an angel weep to see the misdirected, 
superstitious, idolatrous devotion paid to sacred localities by the overwhelming 
majority of pilgrims— for at least nine-tenths of these hyper-devout pilgrims 
believe that certain sins will immediately be pardoned (and can only be pardoned), 
by visiting certain localities, to which they have been dispatched as devotees. Is 
it therefore just matter of regret, as felt by some, that by clearly disproving the 
identification of some of these traditionary locations, the fallacy of predicating 
remission of sins upon any such local premises is so plainly indicated ? For 
if it can clearly be demonstrated that tradition is at fault in a few notable 
instances, doubtless it will greatly tend to prevent that undue reliance upon acts 
of devotion supposed to be rendered peculiarly efficacious because of the particular 
locality at which they are performed. The invalidation of a matter so fruitful 
of evil as this idolatry of locality is observed to be in the latitude of Jerusalem, is 
by no means to be deprecated, but rather to be desired. And but for this con- 
sideration, I should be disposed to leave the poor credulous pilgrim in undisturbed 



INTRODUCTION. 



xxi 



possession of all the enjoyment arising from this blind devotion he pays to sacred 
shrines, at many a misnamed locality. 

The mere entertainment of the reader constitutes no portion of the Author's 
object in composing these pages : they are the result alone of a conviction of 
duty — designed for instruction rather than entertainment — and are therefore 
penned in a style deemed most suitable for the general reader — arranged, how- 
ever, at the same time for the use of Sunday schools, Bible classes, and ministers 
of the Gospel. To impart the greatest amount of information in the shortest 
possible time, consistent with perspicuity, has been almost a necessity — owing 
to engagements over which he could exercise no control. Much of the work 
being very hastily written at odd intervals by the wayside, during an extended 
tour through the United States, and indeed all of it currente cdlamo under most 
disadvantageous circumstances, can, of course, lay no claim whatever to literary 
merit — be its pretensions to truthfulness of detail never so confidently asserted. 
And being put to press without the opportunity of a leisurely revision — no small 
portion indeed being written while passing through the hands of the compositor 
for stereotyping — it may well be spared the chastisement of the reviewer's lash 
for such inelegancies of style and obscurities of expression as would be other- 
wise justly obnoxious to criticism. 

It was with extreme regret that the Author was informed by the Publishers, 
on reaching the 550th page, that the volume, having already transcended its 
prescribed limits, must speedily close — for there yet remain about two hundred 
pages of matter designed for publication, three-fourths of which must now 
necessarily be excluded, even after greatly abridging the portion inserted. 
Amongst other matters of interest is a valuable contribution from the pen 
of his learned friend, Kobert Sim, M. D., Surgeon to the Anglican Hos- 
pital, on the Lepers of Jerusalem. He cannot but regret that it is neces- 
sary also to exclude a whole chapter on a subject profoundly engaging and 
hitherto entirely uninvestigated, however rich and inviting — the New Jerusalem 
above, considered in its relations to the earthly City of the Great King. But he 
more especially regrets that he is thus constrained so materially to abridge the 
exposition of his views of " Millennial Jerusalem." For this is a subject which, 
however interesting and important at this ominous crisis of the world's history, 
is so completely put under ban — owing to the wild extravagancies of reckless 
theorizers — as scarcely to be esteemed legitimate matter of investigation. Nor 
is this wariness either very surprising or censurable in view of the many wild 
vagaries that have been palmed upon the world as the doctrine of Scripture. 
" Save me from my friends, and I will take care of my enemies/' is an expres- 
sion which even a prophet might be excused for using — for prophecy has far less 
to fear from its enemies than from some of its professed friends. 



xxii 



INTRODUCTION. 



Having the sure word of prophecy, whereunto we do well to take heed as unto a 
light that shineth in a dark place, it is surely not the part of wisdom to be deterred 
by the carnal doctrines of materialists (spoiled through philosophy and vain 
deceit), from investigating this important subject and enjoying the blessedness 
promised to those who heed the words of prophecy. 

Happy indeed will the Author be, should the perusal of these pages serve in 
any degree to render more intelligible, satisfactory, and attractive, any portion 
of the " Volume of the Book" — " the Living Oracles" — which alone can inform 
us how to obtain admission into the Eternal " City of the Great King" — -"the 
Holy Place of the Tabernacle of the Most High — the Holy Jerusalem descend- 
ing out of heaven from God." 

The Author cannot but express his regret that it was not until the last sheet 
of his MS. had been sent to the stereotyper, that he met with an excellent 
English work on Palestine, entitled " The Tent and the Khan, by Robert Walter 
Stewart, D. D.,of Leghorn" — to whose sojourn at Jerusalem reference is made 
in this volume. 

It is with no ordinary satisfaction that the Author finds his discoveries and 
peculiar views of topography so fully recognised and endorsed by a gentleman, 
Christian, and scholar so competent to form a correct judgment as Dr. Stewart : 
and gladly would he have availed himself of this valuable work had it fallen 
into his hands at an earlier period. 



GLOSSARY. 



Ain Fountain. 

AmM Pillar. 

Bab Gate. 

Beit House. 

Btr Well. 

Birket Pool. 

Bier Convent. 

Haret Quarter. 

Hammam .... Bath. 

Jammeh Mosk. 

Jebl (Jcbel) .... Mountain. 

Kefer Village. 

Khan Public lodging-place. 

Kebla (Prayer niche) South. 



KJiUbr or Kubr . 


. Tomb. 


Kubbet . . . . 


. Dome. 


Madre88eh . . 


. School. 


Mar .... 


. Saint. 


Jlesjid . . . 


. Sacred Euclosurp. 


Mihrab . . . 


f Oratory — small place 


( of prayer. 


Neby .... 


. . Prophet. 


Suh .... 


. . Market. 


Tarik .... 


. . Street. 


Turbet .... 


. . Grave-yard. 


Wady .... 


. . Valley. 


Wely .... 


. . Moslem Mausoleum. 



References to Josephus are thus expressed: (W. iv. v: 2-6), (Ant. xi. iv : 3-6): Wars, 
book 4th, chapter 5th, section 2 to 6 — Antiquities, book 11, chapter 4, section 3 to 6. 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



CHAPTER I. 

"Blest Land of Judea — thrice hallowed of song, 
Where the holiest of memories pilgrim-like throng, 
In the shade of thy palms, by the shores of thy sea, 
On the hills of thy beauty, my heart is with thee." 

" The City of the Great King" is first mentioned on the page of 
history in the account of the memorable interview between Abraham, 
the "Father of the faithful," and the "Priest of the Most High 
God" (Gen. xiv. 18) under the name of Salem. It would appear 
from that admirable expostulation of Josephus with his infatuated 
countrymen, recorded in the 4th section of the 9th chapter of his 
5th book of the Jewish wars, that the site of Jerusalem was regard- 
ed with veneration, not only by their great progenitor but by the 
Egyptians also, anterior to the heart-rending trial of his faith. 
« Jehovah-Jireh" ("the Lord will provide") is the cheering appella- 
tion by which the eastern portion of the site of Jerusalem is desig- 
nated by Jehovah, when visited again by the venerable patriarch on 
another occasion no less memorable — (Gen. xxii. 14). But from the 
invasion of Palestine by Joshua, to the complete subjugation of the 
city by David — a period of about five hundred years — it seems to 
have gone under the name of Jebus or Jebusi (Jos. xviii. 28; Jud. 

(43) 



44 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



> Name and etymology. 

xix. 10 ; 2 Sam. v. 6). Thenceforward it was known as Jerusalem,* 
or more properly Jerushalaim, Holy City, (and that portion of it 
reedified and enlarged by David) Zion and the City of David — 
specific appellations which, though at first appropriated to certain 
portions only, were afterwards used with such latitude as to indicate 
the city generally. Josephus remarks (Antiquities, book 7, chap. 
3, sec. 2d), that under his forefather Abraham " it was called Salem 
or Solyma ; but after that time some say that Homer mentions it 
by that name, viz. of Solyma (for he designated the Temple 
Solyma according to the Hebrew language, which denotes security"). 
It seems to have borne the name Hierosolymaf even during the reign 
of Melchisedec. The opinion is entertained by many that Jerusa- 
lem is merely a corruption of Jebus-Salem — a name by which it is 
supposed to have been called when the two cities Jebus and Salem 
became united — the b passing gradually into r merely for the sake 
of euphony ; which, however, Aristotle rather discredits, and regards 
as "very awkward." Others derive the name from Salem or 
Shalem, peace, preceded by the word Jireh slightly altered ; and 
others again from Jeru, tliey shall see, and Salem, peace. 

The Rabbins reconcile these conflicting theories to their entire 
satisfaction by the following etymological gloss. " The name of 
that place is Jehovah-Jireh. Say they, Abraham called the name 
of the place Jireh ; Shem called it Shalem. Saith God, < if I shall 
call it Jireh it will displease Shem the just: if I shall call it 
Shalem it will displease Abraham the just. I will therefore put 
that name upon it which was put upon it by both — Jireh-Shalem — 
Jerushalaim — Jerusalem." Herodotus, the Greek historian, styles 
it Kadytis ; but Jerusalem is the name under which it has generally 
been known since the date of its capture by David down to the 

* This name occurs as early as Josh. x. 1, the sacrifice of the sin-atoning Lamb — a 

but doubtless proleptically. suggestion that derives some plausibility 

f Supposed by some to be compounded of from the fact that there are two other places 

lsp6s and zh&, and hence sometimes called called Salem, from which the sacred locality 

"Hierusalem but more probably from Salem would thus be significantly contradistin 

and Jireh, " the Lord will provide peace" by guished. 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 45 
Name. Age. 

present day. When rebuilt by Hadrian, it passed for a short time 
under the new name with which he selfishly and impiously dubbed 
it — iElia Capitolina ; but despite the utmost effort of the mighty 
heathen emperor, this high-sounding title, however euphonious, was 
soon exchanged for that far sweeter appellation — Jerusalem : the 
dwelling of peace ; though Zion, the specific name of one of its 
hills, is perhaps more frequently used in the Bible to designate the 
city than any other appellation. It is styled at present by the 
Arabs, Turks, Persians, and other Mussulmans, "El-Khuds," "the 
Holy ;" or, Beit-el-Makhuddis, "the Holy House," or "House of 
the Sanctuary." 

But the Holy City is to receive yet another designation. " Thou 
shalt be called by a new name, which the mouth of the Lord shall 
name, * * * * thou shalt no more be termed Forsaken ; neither 
shall thy land any more be termed Desolate ; but thou shalt be called 
Hephzibah, and thy land Beulah — for the Lord delighteth in thee, 
and thy land shall be married * * * * thou shalt be called < Sought 
Out,' a city not forsaken." (Is. lxii. 2, 4, 12.) 

« Jehovah Shammah" ("the Lord is there"), is another appella- 
tion sometimes applied to the Holy City by writers : but erroneously ; 
for this is the name of the great political capital of the Holy Land 
during the millennium. (Ezek. xlviii. 35.) 

Under the general name of Jerusalem, the Holy City has now 
occupied a prominent position on the page of history for nearly 
thirty-eight long centuries, which shows it to be at least 1168 years 
older than Rome, the self-yclept " Eternal City," and "Mistress of 
the world." If any city on earth deserves the appellation of 
"Eternal," it is Jerusalem. It shall become "an Eternal excel- 
lency." God has chosen it as his dwelling-place for ever. 

This venerable city, so celebrated in the lays of that Prince of 
lyric poets — "the sweet singer of Israel," — as "beautiful for situa- 
tion, the joy of the whole earth," occupies an irregular site on a 
kind of cloven tongue of land ; being almost surrounded by two 
valleys and intersected by a third, and is situated on the central 

\ 



46 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Situation. Local featufes. 

chain of limestone mountains, running north and south through 
Palestine. This sacred site is separated from the hills, or as they 
are called in one of the " Songs of Degrees," (Ps. cxxv. 2), 
"mountains that are round about Jerusalem," on all sides, except 
the north-west, where its connexion with the great mountain range 
of Judea is maintained by a broad ridge or isthmus from the north- 
west. 

The observer, on approaching Jerusalem by way of the Jaffa road, 
which lies on this ridge, beholds the Kedron valley commencing 
very gradually on the left of this ridge before he reaches Wely 
Kamah (more than half a mile from the north-west corner of the 
city), and then a ridge starting from it on the right separating 
Wady-el-Werd from the valley of Rephaim ; and farther on another 
ridge or gentle swell also starting on the right (nearly opposite Wely 
Kamah), dividing the plain of Rephaim from the (so called) Gihon. 
Just below the Wely this isthmus of Jerusalem gently bifurcates 
into its two leading ridges or hills — separated by a valley running 
southwardly, so shallow and broad as scarcely to be perceptible at 
first, but gradually diminishing in breadth and increasing in depth — 
the Gihon of the Scriptures, though now nameless. The right-hand 
bifurcation (the northern part of which is the hill Gareb, and the 
southern, Zion) is sundered nearly in half by another valley, the 
Tyropoeon, running first to the east and then to the south, having 
Akra immediately on the north and Zion on the south — Mount 
Zion being also subdivided by a valley running into the Tyropceon 
from the south. The left-hand bifurcation of the isthmus is also 
gradually divided into two ridges — that on the right constituting 
Bezetha, Moriah, and Ophel — being the larger and more conspi- 
cuous — that on the left (unnamed, except Goath, its southern termi- 
nation) being the smaller and shorter. The valley separating these 
two ridges is termed in the Scriptures "the valley of the dead 
bodies and of the ashes" and is generally unnoticed by travellers — 
its termination having been nearly filled up designedly in the con- 
struction of the great fossa of Antonia, and that portion of it above 



JERUSALEM 



— AS IT WAS. 



47 



Site described by Aristeas. Founded by Melchisedec. 

Antonia, which alone was ever very deep, being well stored with the 
accumulated debris of ages. 

Aristeas, who was sent on a mission to the High Priest of the Jews 
by Ptolemy Philadelphus, thus describes the Holy City as it existed 
a few centuries before the Christian era : — " It is situated in the 
midst of the mountains, on a lofty hill, whose crest is crowned by 
the magnificent temple girt with three walls seventy cubits high, 
of proportionate thickness, and length corresponding to the extent 
of the building." The city he supposed to be about five miles in 
circumference. Towers he represents as arranged like a theatre. 
The city was built on the declivity of a hill ; its streets had raised 
pavements for passengers, purified at the temple, whilst others 
walked below — some of the streets ran along the brow of the hill, 
others lower down, parallel with the course of the valley, connected 
by cross streets. Brief notices of the Holy City by Tacitus, Hero- 
dotus, and other ancient historians, will be found in another part 
of this work. 

No city on earth can boast of a greater celebrity or a higher 
antiquitj" - than the " City of the Great King;" for there is no just 
reason to call in question the assertion of the great Jewish historian, 
that it was founded by « Melchisedec, the righteous king," the second 
son of Noah — the illustrious ancestor and eminent type of the 
" Prince of Peace."* Nor is there on all the earth another spot so 
well entitled to a place in our affections or a page in history, as this 
venerated place, where Melchisedec was the first " Priest of the 
Most High God," — upon one of whose sacred hills Abraham reared 
an altar to offer up his son — his only son, Isaac, whom he loved — so 
strikingly typifying the great expiatory sacrifice of the Son of God, 
and by faith " rejoiced to see His day — and he saw it and was glad." 

No slight intimation of the future sacredness and celebrity with 
which the Holy City was destined to be characterized, is also con- 
veyed to us in the significant names and authority of those mysterious 



* That Melchisedec and Shem were the According to Jerome, Shem survived Abra- 
same, scarcely admits of reasonable doubt, ham thirty-five years. 



4* 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Accessible position. Latitude and longitude. 

personages, one of whom, at the date of its first mention, was king 
in Jerusalem ; the other, when for a time it seemed to bid defiance 
to the military power of the hosts of Israel, even though commanded 
by that eminent generalissimo, the terror of whose name was feared 
and felt even at the remote gates of Gadiz.* For although it would 
appear from the book of Joshua (i. 8), that a portion of the city at 
least was captured and burnt by the Israelites, yet it is evident that 
Joshua never entirely subdued it. (xv. 63.) 

No place can boast of a situation more eligible in many respects 
than that of the City of the Great King ; though it unquestionably 
labors under some disadvantages. This consecrated spot, where the 
Lord has so graciously recorded his name, may still be regarded as 
" set in the midst of the nations," — intermediately and conveniently 
situated between Asia and Africa, America and Australia, Europe 
and the " Isles of the Gentiles and hither the "tribes," not only of 
Israel, but of all nations, still go up — for it is the "sacred city," 
not only of the Jews, but of Moslems and of Christians, " even to 
the utmost bounds of the everlasting hills." According to accu- 
rate observations recently made, it lies in north latitude 31° 46' 45" 
and 35° 13' east longitude from Greenwich— about thirty-three 
miles from the Mediterranean, and half that distance from the 
Jordan and Dead Sea, at an elevation of 2610 feet above the level 
of the former, and about 3927 above the latter. 

At such a towering altitude, the climate of Jerusalem, as may 
well be supposed, is somewhat different from that of the more de- 
pressed regions that surround it : its temperature of course being 
much less elevated, and, owing to the vicinity of the ever snow-capped 
peaks of the Lebanon on the north, the burning desert of Arabia 
on the south, and the mild Mediterranean on the west, it must ever 
have been as it now is, subject to sudden and considerable vicissi- 
tudes of temperature. It will be perceived from the thermometrical 



*" We a-e fleeing from the robber Joshua," down to the commencement of the present 
said a colony of Canaanites through the century was plainly legible on the Algerino 
monumental column of granite, that even side of the Straits of Gibraltar. 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 49 
Climate. Meteorological phenomenon. 

and barometrical tables, that its highest point — 92° F. in the shade, 
and 143 in the sun — is attained in August ; and its lowest — 28° — 
occurs in January. But the extremes of temperature are probably 
greater now in the general absence of forests and all vegetation, 
resulting from the suppression of the "latter rain," than in the 
days of its prosperity. Summer now prevails more than half the 
year ; but, notwithstanding this long prevalence of warm tempera- 
ture, the heat at Jerusalem is much more endurable than in any 
portion of the Atlantic coast of the United States, from Maine to 
Texas. This is due not only to its elevated position, where the 
evaporation of perspirable matter takes place so readily, and the 
consequent reduction of temperature is so considerable, but to a 
north-westerly breeze from the Mediterranean, which uniformly 
springs up as soon as the ground becomes somewhat heated — about 
eight or nine o'clock in the morning — and continues till ten at night. 
This particular current is no doubt attributable, in part, to the rare- 
faction of the air by the denuded rocky surface of the western 
slope of the mountain ridge on which the Holy City is situated. A 
similar breeze would also come in the opposite direction from the 
eastern declivity, which is equally denuded, arid, and hot, were it 
not counteracted and neutralized by a similar tendency of the 
mountains of Moab and Ammon.* The column of atmosphere 

* I may mention in this connexion a summit, or whether a dry, absorbent breeze 
curious meteorological phenomenon that I from Moab and Ammon happened to meet 
observed one night while ensconcing myself and dissolve them just on this ridge, or 
beneath a rocky cliff from observation, in the whether it was merely an optical illusion 
semi-daylight shed by a Syrian full moon, owing to the peculiar position of the moon, 
Light fleecy clouds were occasionally passing I shall not undertake to decide ; but certain 
over our heads, traversing the heavens in an it is that I shall never forget the sensations 
easterly direction. It had for some time of that memorable night while memory does 
appeared to my vision that just as soon as her office— for I found myself environed by 
they came directly over the summit of Zion rather hazardous circumstances— in this effort 
they became entirely dissolved ; and on call- to reach the temple by a subterranean pass- 
ing attention to the fact, it became evident age, which no explorer nor " fowler knowetb, 
to all that such was really the case. Now, and which the vulture's eye hath not seen 
whether the heat of « the holy hill of Zion" but my ardent hopes were soon foiled by the 
dissolved them when they came so near its cupidity and duplicity of my Arab cicerone. 
4 



50 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Productions of Judea. Weather. 

pressing upon the bosom of the Dead Sea and the plain of 
Jericho, is at least thirteen hundred feet taller than that at Beirut, 
Tyre, Jaffa, Gaza, or any other seaport of Palestine, and is more 
than three-fourths of a mile higher than that resting upon Jerusa- 
lem and its immediate environs ; hence that teeming tropical luxuri- 
ance for which it was so highly extolled by Josephus. It was on 
account of its production of the celebrated balm and other rare 
and valuable drugs and fruits, that Cleopatra induced Pompey to 
take it away from Herod the Great and annex it to the dominions 
of the Pharaohs. During the palmy days of Judea, when the land 
was seasonably watered by the latter rains, and subjected to irriga- 
tion by means of the " brooks of water, of fountains and depths 
that spring out of valleys and hills," originally, there was per- 
haps no spot on all the earth that could compare with that narrow 
belt of land between "the former and hinder sea" (the Mediterra- 
nean and Dead Seas), in point of variety and richness of vegetable 
productions, and especially that portion of it twelve or fifteen miles 
east of the. Holy City, when it was "well watered, even as the 
garden of the Lord, like the land of Egypt, as thou comest unto 
Zoar." 

Frost, at the present day, is entirely unknown in the lower por- 
tion of the valley of the Jordan, and perhaps as high up as the Sea 
of Galilee, which is depressed three or four hundred feet below the 
level of the Mediterranean. Slight frosts, however, are sometimes 
felt on the sea-coast, and particularly in the vicinity of Mount 
Lebanon. But at Jerusalem they are quite frequent, and sufficiently 
severe to blacken the fig leaf prematurely in the fall. And although 
there may not be a particle of snow or ice for several consecutive 
years, in general, yet there were several snows — though of short 
continuance — during the winters of 1853-4 and 1854-5, and pellicles 
of ice at one time an eighth of an inch thick on thin sheets of water 
in places protected from the rays of the sun ; and portions of ground 
similarly situated were slightly frozen for several days. 

The hygrometer, perhaps, in no portion of the earth fluctuates 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 51 
Humidity of atmosphere. Winds. 

more widely than at Jerusalem : no climate perhaps being so humid 
in winter and arid in summer. Water not only stands in drops on 
the walls, but sometimes literally flows down freely during a con- 
siderable portion of the winter, whenever a cold spell of weather is 
succeeded by a warm westerly wind. The walls thus saturated with 
moisture throughout the winter become quite incrusted with a saline 
deposit left by the water as it exudes and evaporates from the sur- 
face after the « winter is over and gone," which, however singular, 
is easily explained on chemical principles. There being no sand in 
the vicinity of the city from which to make cement, ashes are substi- 
tuted for this ingredient of mortar : and hence the chemical reaction 
that takes place through electrical agencies, in the cement of build- 
ings, results in the formation not only of nitre, but of salts of lime 
also (the muriate and nitrate), which being dissolved by the winter 
rain as it percolates through the dome, are deposited in crystalline 
foliations on the interior, where they alternately deliquesce and 
effloresce during the hygrometric changes of the summer, and occa- 
sionally fall to the floor like fleecy snow, or saline drops from the 
Dead Sea — so acrid and nauseous are they. But perhaps these 
extremes of humidity and aridity belong rather to Jerusalem as it 
now is than to Jerusalem as it once was, before the curse of heaven 
was inflicted on the land. 

With the exception of the daily mountain breeze of summer, the 
wind, as to force, frequency, and direction, is very variable — " blow- 
ing where it listeth." The sand-storms, though alarming in appear- 
ance, are rather grand than terrific : but the fine particles of sand 
that impart such a peculiar, lurid aspect to the sky, penetrate every 
crack and crevice, and are exceedingly annoying to housekeepers,' 
reminding one forcibly of the miraculous dust of Egypt. Of all 
the winds of Palestine, the most disagreeable by far (at least to the 
unacclimated) is the Sirocco — blowing several successive days from 
the south, and, like the sand-storms, exerting a sadly depressing 
influence — mentally, corporeally, and almost spiritually — a feeling 
of perfect good-for-nothingness. Winds are sometimes felt that may 



52 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Rain. Wind. Weather. 

well be called Levanters. May not many of the sad and sorrow- 
ful expressions in the Psalms of David in some measure be owing to 
these depressing effects? 

The rainy season commences very gradually in the fall, and con- 
tinues through the spring — undergoing a considerable abatement, 
however, which the Fellahin anxiously improve with their rude 
plough and mattock. The climate, however, in relation to rains, has 
undoubtedly undergone considerable changes since the era of Scrip- 
ture times — a portion of the rains being still withheld according to 
prophetic denouncement — though many entertain the opinion that 
they are gradually being restored. 

It is as true now as it ever was, that " when the south wind 
blows, then we know there will be heat," for « so it cometh to pass" 
uniformly. But many a cloud now " riseth out of the west," and no 
one " straightway says there cometh a shower," for "so it is" not, in 
the present altered condition of the country. The chilling north 
wind, even though saturated with moisture on leaving Lebanon, 
would become so much warmer before reaching the land of Uz, 
that it would be extremely absorbent, and highly productive of fair 
weather at all times ; but in speaking of the influence of the north 
wind upon the weather in Palestine there is an apparent clashing 
between the text and the margin (Prov. xxv. 23) ; the meaning of 
the wise man's expression is no doubt truly rendered in the margin, 
as well as in the text, — for the influence of such a wind upon the 
warm, moist atmosphere of the west, south, or south-east, if un- 
cooled and filled with moisture, would certainly be to precipitate 
their saturated vapor in showers of rain, hail, or snow ; yet, if ren- 
dered warmer and drier in its passage, it would frequently absorb 
the clouds; thus verifying the declaration of Job — that « fair wea- 
ther cometh out of the north." Fine hail mingled with rain is very 
common throughout the rainy season ; and it occasionally falls about 
the beginning or close of the season as large as peas or beans, and 
sometimes much larger. Upon the plains of the Jordan and the sea- 
coast, snow rarely ever falls, and perhaps never remains. But those 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 53 
Originally well watered. Kains. 

districts appear to enjoy more rain than the mountainous region of 
Jerusalem. Dews and fogs are much more frequent and copious 
than would be supposed in such an arid climate, and have furnished 
the inspired writers with many of their beautiful and expressive 
figures. 

That Palestine was originally a well watered country, is not only 
to be inferred from its former dense population and its exuberant 
fertility, as well as from numerous other causes, but is abundantly 
certified by the declaration of Moses that it was a "land of brooks 
of water, of fountains and depths that spring out of valleys and 
hills — that drinketh water of the rain of heaven." How then are 
we to account for the present sparse supply of fountains and brooks ? 
Not entirely by the diminution of rain — for it rains more copiously 
in Palestine even at this day than it does in the United States ! It 
is ascribable mainly, no doubt, to the general denudation undergone 
by the country in the lapse of ages — for, that Palestine was at one 
time richly clothed with forests and herbage, is not only directly 
testified in the Scriptures, but the very phrase by which it is so 
frequently designated — " a land flowing with milk and honey" — 
significantly implies it. On entering into covenant with Israel, his 
peculiar people, Jehovah solemnly assures them — "if ye shall 
hearken diligently to my commandments which I command you this 
day, to love the Lord your God, and to serve him with all your 
heart, and with all your soul, then I will give you the rain of your 
land in his due season, the first rain and the latter rain, that thou 
mayst gather in thy corn and thy wine and thy oil, and I will send 
grass in thy fields for thy cattle ; the land shall yield her increase, 
and the trees of the field their fruit ; and your threshing shall reach 
unto the vintage, and the vintage shall reach unto the sowing time ; 
the ploughman shall overtake the reaper, and the treader of grapes 
him that soweth seed, and the mountain shall drop wine, and all 
the hills shall melt." And hazardous as it would seem, in human 
estimation, to suspend the continuance of rain and national pros- 
perity upon the continued faithfulness of human beings, yet it most 



54 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Early and latter rains. 

evidently appears that as long as the Jews continued faithful and 
obedient as a nation, just so long, and no longer, was their land 
blessed with prosperity ; and whenever they became guilty of defec- 
tion, the rains of heaven were withheld and their land became deso- 
late. What more conclusive proofs of the Divine origin of the 
Scriptures could possibly be given than the utterance of such pro- 
phecies, so exactly fulfilled in the course of long subsequent ages ? 
Was not the deep interest manifested at the libation of water during 
the "Feast of Tabernacles," or "Ingathering," occasioned by its 
association with the punctual recurrence of the rain ? 

It is generally supposed that the period of the rainy season is 
indicated by the Prophet in the following language (Joel iii. 23) : 
" He hath given you the former rain moderately : and he will cause 
to come down for you the latter rain, in the first month." But the 
language is rather obscure and indefinite : for even if the italicised 
term "month" (or moonth) be properly supplied, it is still uncertain 
whether the beginning of the civil or ecclesiastical year be intended 
by "the first month" — September or March. The autumnal rains 
are generally regarded as the "former," and the spring showers as 
the "latter rains" of the Scriptures. "The latter rain of the first 
month," would thus occur in March (Abib), the commencement of 
the Ecclesiastic or Sacred year — principally in its first moon ; but 
certainly terminating before harvest — "rain in harvest" being a 
rare phenomenon. (Prov. xxvi. 1 ; 1 Sam. xii. 17, and Jer. v. 24.) 
But the whole subject is very obscure. The present winter rain 
may be either "the former rain" or the "latter" (and not include 
both, as is generally supposed) : and there may have been another 
rainy season, now entirely withheld, that occurred after harvest, 
about midsummer — answering to the latter rain of the Scriptures. 
And indeed without such a rain, or at least without a shorter con- 
tinuance of dry weather, how could Palestine ever have been justly 
characterized as a "land flowing with milk and honey" — "the 
glory of all lands" — "a delightsome land" — "an exceeding good 
land" — "a land which the Lord thy God careth for: whose eyes 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



55 



Present desolation. Variety of climate and productions. 

are always upon it from the beginning of the year even unto the 
end of the year." 

It may seem strange to many that Palestine should be so desolate 
as it is now represented to be, if so much rain indeed falls upon so 
fertile a soil in so genial a clime : but the difficulty is readily ex- 
plained when it is remembered that all the rain falls within the space 
of a few short months, and that during the remaining seven or eight 
months there is not a single shower or " sprinkle ;" and it is hazard- 
ing nothing in saying that although so much more rain falls in Pales- 
tine than in the United States, yet two years' similar distribution 
of that rain — falling as it does only during a few winter months — 
would almost bankrupt the whole country ! It is matter of surprise 
then, not that there should be only a million and a half inhabitants 
in Syria now so desolate, but that it should sustain even a tithe of 
that number under existing circumstances. 

In such a favored land as this — " a land spied out by the Lord" 
expressly for his peculiar people — " a land wherein thou shalt lack 
notlmig" — with such a rich calcareous soil, under so diversified a 
climate — what must have been the variety and exuberance of its 
productions in its palmy era of fructifying showers.* Volney well 
remarks that » Syria unites different climates under the same sky, 
and collects within a small compass pleasures and productions which 
nature has elsewhere dispersed at great distances of time and place. 
To this advantage, which perpetuates enjoyments by their succes- 
sion, it adds another, that of multiplying them by the variety of its 
productions. With its numerous advantages of climate and soil, it 
is not astonishing that Syria should always have been esteemed a 
most delicious country, and that the Greeks and Romans ranked it 
among the most beautiful of their provinces, and even thought it 
not inferior to Egypt." And to the same effect abundantly testify 

* Although the Scriptures afford but little convinced that — even judging from its pre- 
direct testimony upon this subject, yet who- sent cashiered condition — it was well entitled 
ever will attentively read the section on the to its distinctive designation — " a delight- 
climate and productions of Palestine, in a some land" — " the glory of all lands." 
subsequent portion of this work, can but be 



0(3 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Local features. Land of Moriah. 

Aristeas, Tacitus, Ammillianus Marcellinus, Pliny, Joseplms, Je- 
rome, &c. &c. 

A detailed tabular statement of thermometrical, barometrical, and 
pluviometrical observations will be found under the bead of << Modern 
Jerusalem," where the subject of climate, as modified by existing 
circumstances, will be farther considered, 



MAP OF ANCIENT JERUSALEM. 



A Struthion Pool. 

B Birket Israel— Moat of An ton ia. 

C Royal Cistern. 

D Pool west of Temple — Piscina ad latusTempli int. 

E Pool of Siloam. 

F Intermural Ditch — 'Lower Pool. 

1 Gennath Gate. 

2 Valley Gate. 

3 Esquiline or Dung Gate. 

4 Gate of the Essenes. 

5 East (or Sun) Gate. 

6 Armory. 

7 Palace of High Priest. 

8 Governor's Throne. 

Fountain Gate, near Siloam. 

Gate between two walls, just below Siloam. 

Two outlying Towers — one over Virgin's Fount, and the other near the Hippodrome. 
Tower of Furnaces, near Gennath Gate, in " Sacred Wall." 



CHAPTER II. 



LOCAL FEATURES OF CITY AND ENVIRONS. 
" Walk about Zion — Go round about ber." 

Land of Moriah — Vision — Bitterness of the Lord. 

" The Land of Moriah" seems to have been the name by which 
the entire site of Jerusalem and its immediate neighborhood was 
originally designated ; and Salem was probably its first capital. 
But this term, though thus comprehensively used at first, was after- 
wards restricted to one of the smallest of the several hills upon 
which Jerusalem is built. 

When Abraham's faith was about to be tested, the Lord addressed 
him in these words : " Take now thy son, thine only son Isaac, 
whom thou lovest, and get thee into the land of Moriah ; and offer 
him there for a burnt offering upon one of the mountains which I 
will tell thee of." ***** u Then on the third day he lifted up 
his eyes and saw the place afar off." (Gen. xxii. 2, 4.) Now the 
mountains are still round about Jerusalem, even as in days of yore ; 
and hence there is but one point in all the surrounding country from 
which this begirded district can be " seen afar off." The traveller 
from the east is unable to catch the first glimpse of any portion of 
the city until he reaches the summit of Mount Olivet, half a mile 
distant ; approaching from the north, it is first seen from the heights 
of Scopus, less than a mile distant ; on the west, though a small 



•58 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Not visible afar off. A beautiful Hagarene. 

portion of its loftiest elevations can be seen at Dier Mar Elias, remote 
about three miles, yet it is not before reaching the crest dividing 
the valley of Hinnom from the plain of Rephaim, two or three 
hundred yards off, that any considerable portion can be seen, 
and even then no part of Mount Moriah is in sight. But from 
the top of a high promontory, jutting into the deep valley of the 
Kedron, a few miles south of the city, the hill upon which the 
temple was built can be plainly seen through the opening made 
amongst the mountains by the ancient brook ; and so narrow is the 
opening that scarcely any part of the city is visible except this 
ridge. I had often thought, in looking down that valley, that it 
was from this very point, or from the summit of a ridge still lower 
down, that the heart-stricken patriarch " lifted up his eyes on the 
third day of his journey from Beersheba, and saw the place afar 
off." And, on making an excursion down the valley, I found the 
eminence strewed with ruins called " Kirbet Ibrahim," but whether 
so named in consequence of any such tradition amongst his swarthy 
descendants, I was unable to ascertain ; for so ferocious were the 
Bedawin then occupying the spot that we were compelled to retreat 
precipitately, without making any special observations — except, 
indeed, what we could but note with admiration — that amongst 
these genuine children of the desert, was a lovely Hagarene, that 
would suffer only in color by comparison with Venus herself — so 
perfectly beautiful, graceful, and lovely was she ! It is probable, 
however, that the crusaders had arrived at the same conclusion from 
the same premises, and had erected on the spot a church and con- 
vent, in commemoration of the circumstance. Indeed, so natural 
and plausible is the conclusion, that it could hardly have escaped 
the sharp optics of the Empress Helena, in her search for the sacred 
localities of Palestine. 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



59 



Mount Olivet. Position and shape. 



MOUNT OF OLIVES— MOUNT OLIVET— MOUNT OF UNCTION. 
Jebl et-Tiir Jebl es-Zetun. 

So irregular and ill-defined is this far famed mountain, that it is 
almost impossible to designate its limits, either as to length or 
breadth. Its principal ridge, however — that which constitutes the 
distinctive feature of the mountain — lies immediately east of Jeru- 
salem. Its western base may be regarded as coextensive with the 
Kedron, and is distant from the present Haram wall one or two hun- 
dred yards, which was also its average distance from the ancient 
city. The mean distance of that portion of its summit opposite 
the city, is about half a mile. But by the nearest pathway it is 918 
yards from St. Stephen's gate to the " Church of the Ascension," 
which is regarded as the principal summit ; by the longer foot-path 
it is 1310 yards, and by the main camel road is perhaps a little 
farther. Josephus, therefore, in stating the distance of Mount 
Olivet from the city at five furlongs, or 1010 yards, evidently has 
reference to the top of the mountain, and not to the foot of it, as is 
assumed by some writers. A line drawn up the valley lying a short 
distance south of Bethany, and entering Wady Giddoom, a little 
below Bethphage, may be regarded as forming, in conjunction with 
Wady-en-Nair, the southern limit of Mount Olivet. And the road 
to Anata indicates very nearly its northern boundary. And yet the 
elevations and expansions north of the spot crossed by the road even 
as far as Tel el Ful (the supposed Gibeah of Saul), may well be re- 
garded as a continuation of Olivet. There are more than a dozen 
spurs that spring from the main body in different directions ; and 
several conspicuous elevations : some might perhaps enumerate a 
dozen, and others restrict them to two or three. To the spectator 
on the heights of Zion, or from any other position near the level of 
Olivet, very little variation of altitude will be apparent ; but when 
viewed from a lower point, the meanderings of the ridge and projec- 
tion of its spurs produce the impression of many conspicuous emi- 
nences ; of which that immediately in front, being the nearest, 



60 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Panoramic view from Olivet. 

appears the most prominent. And surely there is not in all the 
world a prospect so delightful to behold, as the panorama to be 
enjoyed by ascending the minaret alongside the Church of Ascen- 
sion, that now crowns the elevation nearest the city. Commencing 
on the south, and looking over the Mount of Corruption, you see in 
the distance the everywhere visible telegraphic Beth-Haccerem, where 
Herod had his paradise, and where his execrable bones lie interred ; 
the ocean of hills and mountains to the left is " the hill country of 
Judea ;" and a few miles below Jerusalem you single out an emi- 
nence from whose summit you can but conclude that a greater than 
Herod the Great first " lifted up his eyes and saw the place afar 
off," where he was commanded to immolate his son — "his only son 
Isaac, whom he loved." In the distant east, the chatoyant tints of 
azure-red picture forth the variegated mountains of Moab and Am- 
nion, on one of whose craggy heights a Syrian atmosphere enables 
you to distinguish the city of Kerak, the site of Kir Moab. You 
almost fancy you see the very eminence on which proud Balak stood, 
and " said unto Balaam, Come curse me Jacob — come defy me 
Israel." Your eyes undoubtedly rest on Pisgah's top, from whose 
towering height the great lawgiver of Israel was favored with a 
sight of this " goodly mountain." Chedorlaomer ! Amraphel ! Tidal ! 
Sodom and Gomorrah ! Lot's wife ! what overwhelming recollections 
and sensations oppress us as we gaze down on the pent-up waters of 
the Dead Sea, and look back through the long vista of thirty-eight 
centuries ! There too, you mark the serpentine course of the turbid 
Jordan, contrasting so strikingly with the desolate, arid, verdureless 
desert that occupies three-fourths of the space between Olivet and 
the Jordan, where John preached and the Messiah was tempted. As 
you turn your eyes northward to gaze on Mizpah, the great gather- 
ing place of Israel — hard by Gibeon and the valley of Ajalon, where, 
at the command of the son of Nun, the sun and moon were stayed 
in their courses — your eye is arrested by the white cliffs of Mich- 
mash, the height of Ramah, the site of Geba, Anathoth, and many a 
"scene in fond remembrance set." But a locality far more inter- 



V 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 61 
Lunar Station. Proseuchae. 

esting than all others is just at your feet : and hastily scanning the 
horizon terminated on the west by the mountains of Bether, cele- 
brated in the " Song of Songs," written by the Preacher that was 
king in Jerusalem, your eyes are riveted on the City of the Great 
King and its sacred precincts ! What stupendous towers, gorgeous 
palaces, sumptuous synagogues once adorned the city of Jehovah — 
and the Temple — how " exceeding magnifical of fame and of glory 
throughout all countries !" But far more soul-affecting are the 
emotions that swell up in viewing Golgotha and Gethsemane, on 
either side of the Kedron below, and the hallowed spot high up on 
the left, whence the Son of Man ascended up on high, leading cap- 
tivity captive ! 

Lunar Station. As this spot (though not the highest point) 
commands the most extensive prospect, it was probably from a 
station somewhere near the present Church of Ascension that the 
appearance of the new moon was announced to the authorities of 
the Temple, by torchlight signals telegraphed from the land of 
Moab. This was the great central telegraphic station, which com- 
municated with others on lofty elevations throughout the whole 
country. 

There were also Proseuchce, or houses of prayer, scattered about 
over the mountain ; but of course none of the ruins on Olivet can 
be recognised at this remote period as the remains of these orato- 
ries. If David went the nearest way to Jordan when fleeing from 
Absalom, as he doubtless did from the stress of the case, and as 
would also appear from the circumstances connected with the 
revilings of Shimei ; then he no doubt crossed the mountain a short 
distance north of the present village of Jebl et-Tur, and worshipped 
at one of these praying places, situated just on the top of the ridge 
where the last view of the Temple would be taken by one going 
towards the Jordan, and the first glimpse caught by those coming 
from Jordan. It was in all probability along the present road from 
Stephen's Gate across the mountain, which is certainly a very 
ancient " ascent," that David went up Mount Olivet, and "wept as 



G2 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



" High places." Lavatory. 

he went up, and had his head covered, and he went barefoot ; and 
all the people that was with him covered every man his head, and 
they went up weeping as they went up ; and it came to pass that 
when David was come to the top of the mount where he wor- 
shipped God, behold Hushai the Archite came with his coat rent 
and ashes upon his head." (2 Sam. xv. 30, 32.) Other proseuchse 
were of course situated near the " Lavatory;" and no doubt, several 
also in the Garden of Gethsemane. 

Many high places, also, devoted to Ashtaroth, Chemosh, Milcom, 
Baal, &c, have polluted various parts of this mountain at different 
times, besides the spur upon which Solomon built idol temples for 
the heathen portion of his Hareem. 

The Lavatory was situated on the western slope of Olivet. 
" That place whereof we are speaking was a pool or collection of 
waters where people were wont to wash, and it agreeth very well 
with those things that were spoken before concerning purifications. 
Here either unclean men or women might wash themselves; and 
presently, buying in the neighboring shops whatever was needed 
for purification, they betook themselves to Jerusalem, and were 
purified in the Temple." Dr. Lightfoot, ii. 305. A bathing estab- 
lishment so extensive as this Lavatory evidently was, must have 
required a copious supply of water, and the query may well be 
raised — "whence did it derive its supply?" "Was it from tanks 
of rain-water, and could they be adequate to such a demand? 
Was it conducted from the temple by the Red Heifer or the Scape- 
goat viaduct? or was it dependent upon the Kedron — being brought 
either by porters or by training the brook along the hillside ? In 
any event it was no doubt situated quite low down the slope : for, if 
its waters were supplied by the rains, it could only derive a plen- 
tiful supply by being located low in one of the principal valleys of 
the mountain ; and, if supplied either by the viaduct or by a diver- 
sion of the brook Kedron, it is equally obvious that it must have 
been situated quite low on the western slope. 

Some where near the Lavatory were two very large cedar-trees, 



JERUSALEM — 



AS IT WAS. 



63 



Garden of (xethsemane. Its position. 

and many shops, where pigeons and other articles for purification 
were sold, called Beth-hano. 

The place at which the red heifer was burnt to ashes, was 
situated at the east terminus of the double arched causeway that 
spanned the Kedron, reaching from Moriah to Olivet, in front of 
the Gate Shushan. It was vaulted below for fear of pollution, like 
the south-east corner of the Temple, and the notable places in the 
city for raising "clean persons." " The elders headed the proces- 
sion, and when the priest came up he bathed himself there." The 
ceremony is minutely described in the nineteenth of Numbers. 

Garden of Gethsemane. — Fat vale — Olive press. We learn 
from the Evangelists (Mat. xxvi. 36 ; Mark xiv. 26 ; Luke xxii. 
39, and John xviii. 1) that this garden was situated over the brook 
Kedron, on the west slope of Olivet ; and its etymology seems to 
intimate that it was connected with an olive orchard of a fertile 
valley. It would seem that it was a public place of resort — a kind 
of pleasure garden perhaps, situated immediately on the side of 
the foot-path leading to Bethany. The track of an ancient road 
leading from the Fish Gate to Bethany is still plainly indicated, not 
only by the physical features of the ground, but by occasional re- 
mains of steps cut in the solid rock ; and is still in use all the way 
except where the present path has been made to deviate to the left, 
for the benefit of the Jebelturians and pilgrims to the Cave of 
Pelagius and the Church of Ascension. The vale of Olivet, 
through which this path passes, is quite fertile and well stocked 
with olives, even at the present day, and may well have been the 
Yale of Gethsemane : the tradition that places the Garden of Gethse- 
mane beside this valley on the right of its lower extremity, cannot 
easily be disproved, but it is evident that the present enclosure can 
occupy only in part the site of the ancient garden. For we are 
informed in the sacred narrative that when the Saviour had entered 
the garden, he said to the Apostles, " Sit ye here, while I go yonder 
and pray," and "taking with him the three" that had witnessed his 
transfiguration, he said to them, " Tarry ye here and watch — and he 



04 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Gethseniane. Mount of Corruption. 

went forward a little — about a stone 's-cast," and there prayed 
alone — thus plainly implying a considerable extent of area. But 
the present garden would scarcely be called a stone's-throw in 
either its breadth or length, being about forty yards in one direction 
and fifty in the other. The wild rocky space between the eastern 
wall and the tall watch-tower, about fifty yards distant, could never 
have been reduced to culture, however valuable land must always 
have been so near the city ; and being so suitable a retreat for 
prayer, it is a little strange that it was not included in the enclo- 
sure by those professing to have identified the ancient locality. 
But a position in the fat valley above, where there are suitable rocks 
for oil presses, would be much more in accordance with the etymo- 
logical import of the name : and if situated near the eastern termi- 
nus of the Bed Heifer or Scapegoat bridge, there would be more 
significancy in the expression " he went forth with the disciples 
over the brook Cedron, where was a garden," &c, (John xviii. i.) 
In this event the Saviour and the Apostles would have crossed the 
Tyropoeon on the Great Solomonic bridge, passed through the 
Temple (whose gates were kept open at night during the festal sea- 
sons), and thus crossed over the brook Kedron on the elevated 
bridge. 

The Mount op Corruption, Scandal, or Oppence, where " Sol- 
omon (being so strangely " turned aside by his strange wives") did 
build an high place for Chemosh the abomination of Moab, and for 
Moloch the abomination of the children of Ammon, was in the hill 
that is before Jerusalem." (1 Kings xi. 7.) This position is not thus 
indicated in relation to the Jerusalem that now is, or afterwards 
was ; but as it then existed, confined mainly to Mount Zion. Bear- 
ing this in mind, there is no difliculty in correctly locating the scene 
of these abominable transactions, on the summit immediately east 
of Siloam and the lower part of Zion ; but travellers, unmindful of 
the local mutations of the Holy City, and locating it on the east, or 
before the present city, have greatly misplaced it. The portion of 
Mount Olivet thus designated is nearly isolated, being merely con- 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 65 

. 

Bethphage identified. 

uected to the remainder by the isthmus over which the road to 
Bethany passes. It rises very precipitously, and to a considerable 
height above the Kedron, and the valley on the east, which nearly 
enclose it. The picturesque sepulchral village of Siloam, where, 
" it is said," Solomon kept his strange wives, occupies a portion of 
its north-western face, opposite the "Virgin's Fount:" and many 
other sepulchres are found in its cliffs all around. It is the south- 
ernmost or right hand portion of Mount Olivet, as expressed in 2 
Kings xxiii. 13 : "And the high places that were before Jerusalem, 
which were on the right hand of the Mount of Corruption, which 
Solomon, the king of Israel, had builded for Ashtaroth, the abomi- 
nation of the Zidonians ; and for Chemosh, the abomination of the 
Moabites ; and for Milcom, the abomination of the children of 
Ammon, did the king defile ; and he brake in pieces the images 
and cut down the groves, and filled their places with the bones of 
men." But if "Mount of Corruption" be the synonym of "Mount 
of Olives," as many suppose, then not only is the main prominence 
of this off-shoot of Olivet indicated, but also another considerable 
prominence on its ridge farther south, opposite En-rogel. The seat 
of Moloch's worship was afterwards transferred to the Valley of 
Tophet, below, in a far more detestable and horrible form than that 
in which it existed on this mountain. 

^ Bethphage — House of Early Figs — House of the Valleys. 
Great diversity of opinion exists in relation to the site of this 
village ; some identifying it with Abu Dis, an Arab village about 
one mile south-east of Bethany ; others assigning it a location on 
the summit of Olivet, a short distance north of the village of Jebl 
Tur ; and others, a site not only contiguous to the Holy City, but 
a portion within the walls ; and amongst these latter is the cele- 
brated Dr. Lightfoot. But a simple comparison of the Messiah's 
triumphal entry into Jerusalem, will show conclusively that in 
neither of these places could all the requirements of the narrative be 
met and the conditions fulfilled. Having come nigh unto Bethphage 
and Bethany at the Mount of Olives, the Saviour sent two of his 
5 



GO 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Bethphage identified. 

disciples to the village over against them, for a colt there tied in a 
place where two ways met, upon which he sat ; and when he was 
come even now at the descent of the Mount of Olives, the multitude 
shouted hosannas. Now there is not one of those places, nor any 
other heretofore suggested, to which all the circumstances of the 
case will apply, except a locality I discovered in making a minute 
chorographic reconnoisance of the country around Jerusalem. This 
is a tongue-shaped promontory or spur of Olivet, distant rather 
more than a mile from the city, situated between two deep valleys, 
on which there are tanks, foundations, and other indubitable evi- 
dences of the former existence of a village. The road from Jerusa- 
lem, after passing over the root connecting it with Olivet, sweeps a 
considerable way up the valley towards the village of Jebl Tur 
northward, and then returns down southward on the other side on 
its way to Bethany, curving around that projection of the mountain, 
on the farther side of which Bethany is situated. It is fairly to be 
inferred from the sacred narrative that in making this progression 
from Bethany to Jerusalem, the Saviour pursued the road ordi- 
narily travelled and best adapted to the circumstances of the multi- 
tude that accompanied him, without any unnecessary stoppage or 
diversion from the route, much less a retrogradation. The point of 
the road at which he said to two of the disciples, « Go your way unto 
the village over against you," was perhaps near some tanks and 
ancient foundations on the top of the intervening ridge, where we 
would naturally locate the dividing line between the "coasts," or 
districts of the two villages ; and the boundary line would not only 
be about midway, but the land thus apportioned to each village 
would be in sight of that village to which it belonged, but out of 
sight of the other. This position too would at once be near each 
village, and just at the adjunction of the districts. The exact appli- 
cation of the expression " over against you," would here fully 
apply. And whether the two disciples left the main thoroughfare 
and passed over directly across the valley, or merely quickened 
their pace a little and turned off to Bethphage by the left-hand 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



67 



Etymology. Physical features of Olivet unchanged. 

pathway, they could easily have the colt in readiness at the point 
where the Bethphage road entered the main road, by the time Jesus 
and the multitude that accompanied him had reached that spot. 
From this point, three or four hundred paces would overcome the 
ascent to the top and bring them to the " descent of the Mount 
of Olives," where the whole multitude of the disciples began to 
rejoice and praise God with a loud voice, for all the mighty works 
they had seen, saying, " Blessed be the King that cometh in the 
name of the Lord : peace in heaven and glory in the highest." This 
view of the position of Bethphage is also fully confirmed by the 
etymological import of the term, as far as it can be supposed to 
bear upon the subject. Being so well sheltered from northerly 
winds, and enjoying so fine a south-eastern and western exposure, 
it must needs have been well adapted to the production of early 
fruits; and was, no doubt, well entitled to the appellation "House 
of Early Figs." And certainly it is justly styled "House of the 
Valleys," — if any prefer that etymology. 

However much other sacred localities about the Holy City may 
have altered in the lapse of ages, there is no reason to believe that 
this hallowed mountain has undergone any material change. True, 
the palm, the cedar, and the sycamine have long since disappeared 
from its side ; but it is still the home of the olive, and its general 
surface is essentially as it was when King David went up its ascent 
"weeping and barefooted," and when the Son of man sat upon its 
brow and wept over the devoted city, or ascended on high from one 
of its summits. " The Divine Majesty," says Rabbi Janna, "stood 
three years and a half on Mount Olivet, saying, Seek ye the 
Lord while he may be found, call on him while he is near." What 
strong testimony in behalf of the Messiah's divinity, from the pen 
of a Jew ! 

It was from this mountain also that " the glory of God" — having 
left the temple by its eastern gate, ascended on high, after lingering 
for a time (Ezek. ii., 22, 23), over its hallowed summit. 



08 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



The Assumption from Olivet. 




THE ASCENSION FROM MOUNT OLIVET— 
A Sabbath-day' 's journey from Jerusalem. 

Few spots in all the domain of sacred topography are more 
interesting to the Gentile believer than the one now to be described — 
the place of the assumption : and although we are entirely dependent 
upon a few merely allusive paragraphs in the Scriptures for all we 
know concerning this interesting spot, yet fortunately the language 
is so specific that its location can be ascertained with great certainty. 
From this indisputable authority we learn that the spot whence the 
Saviour ascended on high was on Mount Olivet; — that it was not only 
on this mountain but from a portion of it lying a Sabbath-day's jour- 
ney from Jerusalem ; and that it was " as far as to Bethany." (Luke 
xxiv. 50.) Now the place to which tradition awards the honor of being 
the last to receive the impress of our Divine Master's feet,* is on Mount 
Olivet, it is true (and so are many other elevations just as eligible) ; 
but is neither "as far as to Bethany," nor is it a Sabbath-day's 
journey from Jerusalem." The spot now venerated as the place of 



* Another impression of His feet is also rock in the Kedron just below the bridge 
shown by the votaries of tradition, on the opposite " Absalom's pillar." 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



G9 



Eminence near Bethany. 

ascension, over which a portion of the monumental church of the 
Empress Helena still stands, and which, to the confusion of all 
cavilling gainsayers, is attested by the veritable foot-print and 
impress of the staff in the impressible rock, is only about one 
thousand and thirty-five yards or rather more than half a mile from 
St. Stephen's Gate, by the path usually travelled, and the same dis- 
tance from the " Golden Gate" in the Haram wall, now closed ; and 
it is evident from Josephus that the city wall here ran still nearer, 
eighteen hundred years ago, than it does at present ; so that reckon- 
ing from the city wall, or even from that of the Temple, by the 
nearest route, the two places would fall considerably within half a 
mile of each other. Now this is not half the usual estimate of a 
Sabbath-day's journey, and considerably less than the smallest com- 
putation made upon any data whatever. Authorities decidedly pre- 
ponderate in favor of the general estimate of rather less than a 
mile as the length of a Sabbath-day's journey.* We must, there- 
fore, look for some spot on Mount Olivet, thus distant from the wall 
of Jerusalem : and several such places can be found, both north and 
south of the present traditionally accredited station. But the sacred 
narrative requires that it should be not only a Sabbath-day's jour- 
ney, but "as far as to Bethany" — even unto Bethany — " cwj ei$ 
Bqdavuw." Now, it so happens that there is not a more decidedly 
marked prominence on all Mount Olivet than the hill impending over 
the ancient " City of Dates," to the top of which is exactly one mile 
from St. Stephen's Gate, the present place of egress from the city 

* It would appear from the Talmudics, that day — a distance of one mile — and this seems 
it was no violation of the Sabbath-day, while to have regulated the Sabbath-day's journey, 
in the desert, to traverse the whole camp, Some have estimated it as high as two miles, 
which is believed to have been twelve miles and some, by way of accommodation, as low as 
square ; nor was it unlawful to walk through a seven or seven and a half furlongs ; but there 
city on that holy day, no matter how extensive is no just reason to question the correctness 
it might be. But after the erection of the of the ordinary estimate. The Jewish mile 
Temple, Sabbath locomotion seems to have was composed of one thousand paees of five 
been greatly circumscribed without the city, feet, or one thousand six hundred and sixty- 
No one was permitted to go beyond the limits six yards, and was therefore nearly one hun- 
of the suburbs of the city on that sacred dred yards shorter than our mile. 



70 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Traditionary location preposterous. 

to Bethany, and from the Golden Gate also in the ancient Temple wall. 
But from Shusan or the east gate of the Temple, via the Red Heifer 
Bridge, it was of course a hundred or two yards less. The pre- 
sent pathway to Bethany, however, is needlessly circuitous (deviat- 
ing to the left for the benefit of pilgrims), and, if properly located, would 
be somewhat shortened. The secluded shelter afforded by one of the 
large projecting rocks that crown the top of this sterile, desolate emi- 
nence is just such a retired spot as it might be supposed the great 
Teacher would select for the delivery of his last charge to the Apos- 
tles — sufficiently retired yet easily accessible. This eminence is en- 
tirely unprofaned too, by the hands of man — there being no commemo- 
rative monument on it, nor (strange to say) any sepulchre within it, 
nor the mark of the sculptor's tool upon any portion of it ; and — 
as if the Lord would preserve so sacred a spot from idolatrous 
desecration — the officious hand of tradition has never yet rested 
upon it, and this with me is a fact of no little significancy, for it 
does seem that this "ignis fatnus" of monastic illumination has 
rarely ever exhibited its lambent, flickering flame on sacred soil but 
to mock and bewilder. It may be objected, however, that this spot 
is not " even unto Bethany" — the town lying about five hundred 
yards below. But may not the Evangelist have meant the boundary 
of the " coasts" or district of Bethany, instead of the village itself? 
Such a view of the matter would amply satisfy the demands of the 
case. But still I incline to the opinion that Luke meant either the 
village itself or its immediate suburbs. And fragments of columns 
lying about the remaining foundations of houses in the scarped rock 
just below the south-east brow of the hill, which is here rather pre- 
cipitous, indicate that the suburbs of Bethany once extended rather 
farther towards Jerusalem in this direction than at present, so that 
the traveller on foot would almost reach it at the end of a mile ; 
while to go around the broad road, he must travel nearly two miles, 
for the distance is as of old, just fifteen furlongs. In the expres- 
sion " cwj Et-s BqOaviav" Luke therefore would appear to exhibit 
his usual accuracy of diction, instead of having committed a 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



71 



Path often trodden by the Saviour. 

serious blunder, as some conclude that this heaven-guided historio- 
grapher has done. How preposterous is the idea entertained by 
some of the out-and-out advocates of tradition — that the suburbs 
of the village of Bethany should extend three-fourths of the way to 
Jerusalem — thus making the suburbs of the capital only one-fourth 
as extensive as those of a little village ! The summit whence I can- 
not but believe the Redeemer to have ascended on high, is within 
a hundred yards of the direct foot-path leading from Jerusalem to 
Bethany, but yet is quite retired and out of the way. Instead of 
being conspicuously situated, in full view of all Jerusalem, like the 
site now reputed the place of ascension, it is entirely out of view 
of the present city, and could never have been seen from any part 
of ancient Jerusalem, except perhaps a small portion of Mount 
Zidn. Here a meeting with His disciples would have been altogether 
in consonance with the custom he seems to have observed after his 
resurrection — of appearing only to his disciples, and to them only 
in the recesses of mountains, on the retired sea-shore, or in closed 
rooms. But such retirement could never be found in such a fertile, 
prominent, and public spot as that now regarded as the place of 
ascension. It is not a little singular, that a spot possessing so fully 
all the requisites indicated by the case, should never before have 
been regarded as the place of ascension. So satisfactorily demon- 
strable is the proposition, that I never feel better assured of occu- 
pying ground once trodden by the adorable Redeemer, than when I 
am here ; unless it may be, when passing over the narrow neck of 
land which connects this elevation with the main body of Olivet, for 
over this thin isthmus, where all the varying paths between Jerusa- 
lem and Bethany necessarily become coincident, he must have passed 
many an evening and morning in journeying between the two places, 
as his custom was — unless indeed we suppose (contrary to all that 
either the volume of Revelation or of nature records of him) that 
he was regardless of the proper adaptation of means to ends ; and 
in going to any given place with his disciples would traverse an 
extended semicircular path, instead of the nearer and equally avail- 



72 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Walk over Olivet. 

able chord— thus travelling twice the requisite distance without any 
special motive or assignable reason ! It is thus perceived that the 
physical features of the neighborhood singularly concur with the 
testimony of the inspired eye-witness, to prove that in this instance 
(as well as in others when tested by reason and Revelation) oral 
tradition is as groundless and unreliable as the " baseless fabric of 
a vision;" for if Luke knew anything of the matter, it is utterly 
impossible that the site pointed out by the finger of tradition can 
be the true place of the ascension. 

Perhaps there is not, on all the wide earth, another Sabbath-day's 
journey so richly suggestive of the future, or so replete in soul- 
stirring reminiscences of the past, as the foot-path from the Holy 
City to the Mount of Ascension. The illustration with which this 
section is introduced needs no farther explanation than that con- 
tained in the following beautifully descriptive, anonymous lines : — 

" City of David, for a while farewell ; 
Thy dazzling shrines, thy narrow squalid streets, 
By wearied pilgrims thronged, alike I shun, 
And where, with gnarled roots and rugged armt, 
Wide straggling o'er the mountain's steep ascent, 
Lone ancient Olives linger still, to prove 
The name well fitting, breast my upward way. 

Its ridge o'erpast, successive sink from view 
Thy trench-like valleys, and thy scarped hills, 
Thy massive walls, thy towers, thy minarets, 
And a new landscape opens to my gaze — 
Hill beyond hill, stretching in distant lines 
And long succession. 

On the horizon's verge, 
The last faint tracing on the blue expanse, 
Rise Moab's summits, and above the rest, 
One pinnacle, where, placed by hand divine, 
Israel's great Leader stood, allowed to view, 
And but to view that long-expected land, 
He may not now enjoy. Below, dim gleams 
The sea, untenanted by aught that lives, 
And Jordan's waters thread the plain unseen ; 
Unseen — but marked by "living green." 

Nearer approaching, range to range succeeds, 
Dark, lava-seeming, dreary solitudes, 



JERUSALEM 



— AS IT WAS. 



73 



View from the summit. 



Impervious to the plough, traversed alone 
Through gloomy ravines, where of old-" a man 
Fell among thieves," and where the handit still 
Lurks for his prey, a wilderness of hills. 

But from their base, in gradual ascent, 
With yellow grain-fields clothed, and bright relieved 
By groves of olives, spreads a sylvan scene. 
Beauteous itself, but seeming doubly blest 
In nature's bounty, after tracts so wild. 

* * * And to the hill side, 
Here hid among her trees, a village clings, 
Boof above roof uprising: 
And peopled thick with gayly colored groups, 
Housing the golden colored produce of their toil. 
Above, one giant patriarch of the woods 
Throws the wide shadow of his foliage 'round, 
And higher still, the patient laborer 
Contends undaunted with the stony waste, 
Wresting his hard-won harvest, till the soil 
Mocks his vain, fruitless efforts, and alone 
Some wandering olive or unsocial fig, 
Amid the broken rocks which bound my path, 
Snatches scant nurture from the creviced stone. 

And this is Bethany ! and here abode 
The favored family whom Jesus loved ; 
To whose warm, humble welcome, 'twas his wont, 
Tracking the path that now I passed along, 
Oft to retire from foes and wavering friends. 

'Twas here his verdict full acquittal gave, 
And high approval of the glowing zeal, 
Which, for the "better part," forbore to share 
A sister's weak anxieties. 'Twas here 
He wept in tender sympathy with woes, 
By his command so soon to be absorbed 
In grateful joy. Here, by his power divine, 
Bade death release its prey, the untrammelled soul 
Return to earth and give a living proof 
And pledge of future immortality. 
And when, his work all ended, he prepared 
To reascend his throne, this way he led 
His sorrowing followers for a last farewell. 

It seems a humble village, few its homes, 
And few and poor its dwellers; cottage roofs, 
Except one simple turret, are they all! 
Yet save the neighboring city, it were hard 



74 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Hill of Scopus. Cliff's of Hinnom. 

If Palestine were searched, to find a spot 
On which the Christian traveller should muse 
With fonder interest than Bethany." 

If we are to construe the declarations of Luke and Zechariah 
literally, then this mountain is to undergo a great change when the 
Son of Man shall so come in like manner as he went up into heaven, 
" and his feet shall stand in that day upon the Mount of Olives 
which is before Jerusalem on the east, and the Mount of Olives shall 
cleave in the midst toward the east and toward the west, and there 
shall be a great valley, and half of the mountain shall remove toward 
the north and half toward the south." (Acts i. 11. — Zech. xiv. 4.) 

Scopus — Watch-tower — Skopos — Distant View. — This term is ge- 
nerally but very inappropriately applied to the gentle elevation a 
short distance north of the city, and immediately south of the 
great curvature of the Kedron. The hill Scopus is an elevated 
piece of ground rather more than a mile north of Damascus 
Gate, — so called on account of the fine view of Jerusalem 
to be enjoyed from its height. It lies between the two main 
branches of the valley of the Kedron, and may be regarded as an 
irregular spur of Mount Olivet. A circular hillock upon this eleva- 
tion, probably marks the site of the ancient tower. It was here 
that the Roman general, Cestius, first pitched his camp, and it was 
also from the heights of this hill that Sennacherib, the vaunting 
Assyrian monarch, " shook his hand against the mount of the 
daughter of Zion, the hill of Jerusalem," (Is. x. 32); but all in 
vain, for like the king of the French, they 

" Marched up the hill with twice ten thousand men, 
And then — marched back again !" 

It was here, likewise, that Titus first pitched his camp, and came 
well nigh losing his life ; but the cup of Israel's iniquity was now 
full to overflowing, and hence, as Heaven's avenger, he soon 
destroyed the guilty city. (W. ii. xix : 4-7, and W. v. ii : 4.) 

Declivities of Hinnom. — The side of this valley that lies next the 
city is far less declivitous than the opposite or south-western cliff, 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



75 



Palace of Caiaphas. 

After its gradual commencement at the Upper Pool it becomes quite 
precipitous throughout its whole extent — being high, perpendicular, 
and in some places overhanging towards its lower extremity. It 
forms a distinct but low hill at its commencement — that west of 
Jaffa Gate — on which Titus made an encampment (now crowned by 
the convent of St. George). Its termination is also distinctly 
marked as a hill — that on which the field of Aceldama is pointed 
out. And much of its middle and upper portion is a low ridge 
dividing the valley of Ben-Hinnom from the valley or plain of 
Rephaim. Immediately south of the hill of Aceldama is quite a 
large promontory or hill, being the termination of that large ridge 
of which the Hill of Evil Council is the summit. But no special 
interest attaches to any of these prominences. 

Hill of Evil Council — Villa of Caiaphas — Pompey's En- 
campment. — [Bier Abu Tor, or Bier el Kaddis Modistus.) — 
Two or three hundred yards beyond the brow of Gehinnom 
(commonly called Gihon) is a second elevation of the Hill of Hinnom 
designated in the traditionary local terminology of Jerusalem " The 
Hill of Evil Council." It is evidently the hill upon which Pompey 
pitched his camp ; but that its summit was the country seat of 
Caiaphas, where the Jews took council and devised devices against 
Christ, is not so easily demonstrated, though its vicinity to the spot 
he had selected as his final resting-place seems to give some counte- 
nance to the tradition. The present remains indicate the former 
existence of a large and respectable building ; and its Arabic name, 
as well as its peculiar plan, declares it to have been a convent in 
later ages. The Wely situated in the south-west corner of this ruin 
is much revered by " the faithful" as an oratory or place of prayer. 
Nearly a hundred yards south-west of it the unsymmetric " tree 
whereon Judas hung himself" bows its ungraceful head — evidently 
cultured and trained very carefully in due gibbet form by pio-tra- 
dition hands — well meant pious frauds of calculating monks, exhi- 
biting at least the literal truth of the great educational maxim, 
just as the twig is bent, the tree's inclined." 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Mounds of rock and of ashes. 

" The Hill Gareb." — The only place in which this hill is men- 
tioned is in Jeremiah (xxxi. 39) — " And the measuring line shall yet 
go forth over against it upon the Hill Gareb, and shall compass about 
to Goath" — which plainly defines it to be the ridge running from the 
north-west corner of the city in the direction of Wely Kamah. It is 
the isthmus or neck by which Jerusalem is connected with the moun- 
tains of Judea — the head of the Kedron valley reposing on its 
north-east side, and that of the Hinnom on the south-west. This hill 
gradually coalesces with the low swell that separates the Kedron 
from the shallow but wide depression north-west of Damascus Gate. 
A.grippa's Wall, as far as the Tower of Psephinos, was erected nearly 
upon the middle of this ridge. Some suppose it is so called because 
Gareb the Ithrite once owned it ; others because it contained quar- 
ters for the seclusion of lepers. 

Ash Mounds. — There are several considerable mounds on the ele- 
vated ground north-west of the Damascus Gate, of which, that situated 
about half a mile from the city is the largest. It is contended by 
many, that these hills are the cinerary products of the Jewish altar 
of burnt offering : it is evident, however, that their origin is refer- 
able alone to the soap manufactories of the city, the leached ashes 
of which are still deposited there. Quite another disposition of 
the ashes of the altar was made, as may be seen on reference to 
the article on the "Ashes Valley." 

Rock Mound — near Damascus Gate. — There is a rock monti- 
cule in front of Damascus Gate, two or three hundred yards dis- 
tant, affording such an eligible site for a large public edifice, that 
it was perhaps an important place, especially after the Ccenopolis 
addition of the city. It is an irregular square of sixty or seventy 
yards on each side ; and has several artificial excavations in it ; 
but they do not seem to have been designed for sepulchres, as 
is generally the case. It is highly probable that it was the site 
of St. Stephen's Church, reared in the fifth century. 

Goath — his touching, violent death. — The only place where 
this term occurs is in the prophecy of Jeremiah (xxxi. 39 ; 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 77 
Execution of Athaliah. 

40), when the prophet, foretelling the reedification of the Holy 
City, informs us, in speaking of that portion of it on the north, 
that "the measuring line shall yet go over against it upon the 
Hill Gareb, and shall compass about to Goath, and the whole 
valley of the dead bodies and of the ashes (of burnt idols) and 
all the fields (or gardens) into the brook of Kedron (even) unto 
the corner of the Horse Gate toward the east, shall be holy unto the 
Lord." It was thus evidently on the east of Jerusalem, at the 
valley of Kedron, in the neighborhood of the Horse Gate, and was 
embraced within the limits of the great Jewish Cemetery. And 
that it was not merely a place of sepulture, but also made use of as 
a place for the execution of malefactors, would also appear from the 
history of Queen Athaliah, for it was here that this vile usurper 
was slain, and not by the royal palace on Mount Zion (as is usually 
contended) on the opposite side of the Temple. This wicked 
usurper, hearing across the Tyropceon, the rejoicings of the people 
at the coronation of the young king in the Temple, as she sat in her 
palace, rushed over the bridge into the Temple, crying " Treason, 
treason;" but the high priest ordered her immediately to be taken 
out and put to death, " and they laid hands on her, and she went 
by the way by the which horses came into the king's house ; and there 
was she slain." (2 Kings xi. 16; comp. 2 Ch. xxiii. 14, 15.) 
Now, we are not to suppose that horses came into the "king's 
house" of residence, but into the king's (horses) house or hippo- 
drome, he had built for them just south-east of the Temple, imme- 
diately in the vicinity of the Horse Gate. Or as Josephus expresses 
it (Ant. ix. vii : 3), " Jehoida commanded them to bring Athaliah 
to the valley of the Kedron and slay her there. * * * * Where- 
fore those that had charge of her slaughter took hold of her and 
led her to the "gate of the king's mules and slew her there" in that 
part of the Kedron. And that this valley was, at that time, a kind 
of desecrated place made use of not only as a spot of sepulture, 
but for the destruction of idols and their appurtenances, is abun- 
dantly shown by a passage from the life of good King Josiah (2 



78 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Etymology of Golgotha. 

Kings xxiii. 2, 6, 12), as well as many other acts of the Kings of 
Judah. That this quarter was also a general burying ground 
would appear from the fact stated by Josephus (W. v. vii. 3), 
that King Alexander was buried in the same general quarter, but 
farther north. 

Golgotha — a heap of skulls — violent death. 
Calvary — Kpaviov to^os — place of a skull. 

This word is supposed to be compounded of " gol" and "gotha," a 
variation of goaih or goatha.* And if Hern Kraft is correct in the 
etymological definition he urges so confidently, " violent death" — 
and those who render the prefix " gol," a head, elevation or swell 
of land, then we see the propriety of the compound term golgotha — 
a swell or " hill of violent death." Thousands of violent deaths, 
no doubt, have occurred in that district of the environs of Jeru- 
salem denominated Goath or Gotha, besides the death of Queen 
Athaliah, or that of the Redeemer of the world — for often has this 
been the sanguinary battle-ground of the Jews with the Romans 
under Cestius, Titus, &c. 

That the idea of a < £ skull" is some way or other involved in the 
Hebrew word golgotha, is evident from its version into Greek by 
John (xix. 17), who says it is "a place called of a skull, which is 
called in Hebrew Golgotha;" and from Luke (xxiii. 33), who says 
it is "a place called a skull,'" (not Calvary, f as is our English ver- 
sion ;) but whether because skull-shaped or a place bestrewed with 
skulls, admits of some doubt. Both significations may be true, but 
the probabilities are rather in favor of the former. The word 
rendered skull (Jud. ix. 53 and other places), is golgoleth, which 
the Seventy translate as Luke and John render golgotha — skull. 

* Persons unacquainted with Oriental lan- Calvaria, from the Latin Calva, skull. Tradi- 

guages can hardly conceive Goath and Gotha tion saith, "it is so called because Adam's 

or Golgotha and Golgoleth to be closely re- skull was found there." His skull is believed 

lated, much less equivalents; but such varia- by nine-tenths of the pilgrims and Christians 

tions are very common in the east, at least of Jerusalem to be interred beneath the altar 

in the cognate Hebrew and Arabic. in the centre of the Greek apartment of the 

f Calvary is formed by merely anglicising Church of the Holy Sepulchre. 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 79 
The place of Crucifixion. 

The Arabic term for head (r a s) is as applicable to a head or cape 
of land as to the head of an animal; and the same may be affirmed 
of the Hebrew term (golgoleth). Now, there is a kind of head, 
cape, or promontory of land projecting south-eastwardly into the 
Kedron valley, a short distance above Gethsemane, to which such 
a term seems quite applicable, just as the low spur of Lebanon on 
which Beirut reposes is called Cape or Head of Beirut. May not 
this similar spur of an unnamed ridge be the site of that awful 
scene — the crucifixion of the son of God ? There is, at this time, 
no skull-shaped monticule of rock to be found in all the region 
where, according to Jeremiah, Goath or Gotha was located; but 
this, of course, is no proof that such a prominence did not once 
exist, for it is evident that neither Jew nor Pagan would have 
suffered so significant and conspicuous a memorial of the crucified 
Nazarene long to remain the uncompromising accuser of their faith 
and morals. It is a little singular that so superficially are the 
dead buried in the side of that hill to this day, that by merely 
moving a loose rock or two, skulls are seen in abundance ; indeed, 
the jackal frequently saves the trouble of removing them. 

" Now in the place where he was crucified there was a garden, 
and in the garden a new sepulchre wherein was never man laid." 
(John xix. 4.) " And the women also which came with him from 
Galilee followed after, and beheld the sepulchre and how his body 
was laid." (Luke xxiii. 55.) The language here used is rather 
indicative of a spot of ground, isolated by an artificial enclosure, if 
not by natural bounds. The gurden and sepulchre were, no doubt, 
on the lower side of the road — that farthest from the city, and 
perhaps quite down in the gloomy vale of the Kedron. And where 
could there be a more appropriate spot for the three days' repose 
of the " Lamb slain," than the shades of this sequestered vale, 
hard by the garden of his mental agony ? There are still some old 
sepulchres to be found there, answering quite well the description 
of the Redeemer's sepulchre. But who could believe that his 
sepulchre would be spared when the "heathen raged, and the 



80 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Sepulchre probably destroyed. Requisites fulfilled, in a site east of city. 

people imagined a vain thing — when the kings of the earth stood 
up, and the rulers were gathered together against the Lord and 
against his Christ." Every vestige of the tomb, as well as the 
cross and the skull-shaped rock on which it may have been placed 
(if any), was doubtless very early swept off either by Jew or Pagan.* 
Still there can be but little doubt as to the general locality of these 
transactions. 

It is altogether obvious — from the Old Testament as well as the 
New — that Golgotha was situated near a garden without the walls. 
The evangelic narrative also clearly evinces that the scene of the 
crucifixion was in a conspicuous place, not inhabited (for it was a 
place of sepulture, as well as execution), — near the wayside, visible 
from afar as well as from a place just over against — and at the same 
time nigh unto the city wall — that part of it no doubt forming at 
once the boundary of the temple and the city : for it is improbable 
in the highest degree that the Jewish hierarchs, however anxious 
to gloat on their devoted victim and chuckle at his anguish, would 
adventure their sanctimonious feet farther than the parapet of the 
Temple wall on that " high day;" for so immaculate did they wish 
to appear, that " they themselves went not < even' into the judgment 
hall, lest they should be defiled" — much less then would they ven- 
ture to approach the dying and the dead, whether on the polluted 
slope of Kedron's sepulchral valley, or any other spot where they 
would be liable to contract defilement. That these are all requisites 
of the sacred narrative, is sufficiently obvious from a collocation of 
the events of the crucifixion as recorded by the four different biogra- 
phers of the Saviour, all of whom witnessed the mournful scene. 

Topographical notice of the route along which the Saviour was 
taken from the Coenaculum to the Tomb. — The Coenaculum, or 
upper room where our adorable Redeemer ate the last paschal 

* It is worthy of remark that it is never that "his sepulchre is with us unto this day." 

alleged by any of the New Testament Had the Jews already swept away all traces 

writers, of our Lord's sepulchre, as it was of of it ? 
David's by Peter on the day of Pentecost, 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



8] 



Location of the " Upper Room." 

supper, and instituted the commemorative ordinance of his death, 
is located by tradition in the south-west quarter of Mount Zion. 
But there is no special authority for the location assigned it on 
that remote part of the Holy Hill. When our Saviour directed 
two of the apostles, Peter and John, to go and prepare the pass- 
over, they were in Bethany : and in discharging their commission 
were compelled, unless they would act contrary to all the dic- 
tates of convenience, to enter the city either at the Horse Gate, on 
Ophel, the Fish Gate, on Bezetha, or the intermediate East Gate of 
the Temple, which, presenting much the shortest and most available 
route over the Red Heifer Bridge, they would probably select. 
" And when they were entered into the city, there met them a man 
bearing a pitcher of water," which, being a sight so very unusual, 
indicated him with great certainty, whom they accordingly followed 
where he entered in. (See xxii. 11.) Now it is not at all probable 
that a man from that remote western part of the city, where the 
traditionary Ccenaculum is placed, would come over to the eastern 
part for water when he was much nearer to the " Lower Gihon" on 
the west, and Siloam on the south — and even in that event, there 
would be no propriety in the term " meet" — for let it be noted that 
they met a man hearing a pitcher of water, — a fact quite significant 
m locating the "upper room" — an upper room in more senses than 
one. Let it now be supposed that the " large upper room furnished 
and prepared," was situated on the eastern brow of Zion ; and that 
the "good man" to whom it belonged had gone to the west part of 
the city to get a jar of fresh Gihon or Etham water for the feast : — 
a man bearing a pitcher of water, so rare a sight as to be dis- 
tinctive — must have been poor, and could scarcely afford a guest- 
chamber that would be adequate to the accommodation of the apostles 
and the company of the hundred and twenty. The two apostles having 
passed through the Temple, and crossed the great bridge, would 
probably not proceed far before they would meet him bearing the 
water, and according to instructions, return with him and then make 
ready the passover. All the conditions of the case are amply ful- 
6 



82 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



From the Coenaculum to the Sanhedrim. 

filled in this view of the matter, and the most exact requirements 
of the narrative satisfied. The supper being ended, the consolatory 
address concluded, and the hymn sung — they must needs go either 
through the Temple or the Fish. Gate, if they would reach the Garden 
of Gethsemane by an easy and available route. Being there appre- 
hended, after his agony, and led away to Annas first, he was led 
down the gloomy vale of Kedron, across Tophet, through Gehenna, 
and up the steep sides of the " Hill of Evil Council" — if indeed tradi- 
tion has properly located the country seat of Annas. In order to 
reach the palace of Caiaphas, the high priest, which was situated 
on the northernmost part of Mount Zion, hard by the Acro-Zion wall, 
not far from the Armory, the choice of route would lie between four 
gates : the Fountain Gate, between the walls at Siloam, through 
which King Zedekiah fled, the Gate of the Essenes, the Dung Port, 
and Valley Gate. The route through the Essenes Gate would be the 
nearest, but steepest way. The remainder of the night after " Annas 
had sent him bound to Caiaphas, the high priest," his son-in-law, 
he is detained in the Hall of the High Priest, enduring the insults 
of the officers and the inquisitorial examination of Caiaphas. The 
route by which the Saviour was led from Gethsemane to the house 
of Annas, and thence to the palace of Caiapha.s, is mere matter of 
conjecture ; but thenceforth the various points to which he was led 
are well ascertained ; for early in the morning, " the elders of the 
people and the chief priests and the scribes came together, and led 
him into their « Council House,' " to reach which they might either 
pass through the nearest gate in the Acro-Zion wall, and thus 
directly across the Tyropoeon, or more probably go around, over the 
bridge and through the south-west part of the Court of the Gen- 
tiles—for the Council House seems to have had an entrance from 
the Temple as well as from the city. The Sanhedrim and its sub- 
alterns, having condemned, mocked, and blasphemously maltreated 
him, « then led they Jesus from Caiaphas unto the judgment hall 
of Pilate ; and it was early ; and they themselves went not into the 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 83 
From Antonia to Golgotha — the "Dolorous Way." 

judgment hall lest they should be defiled ; but that they might eat 
the passover, Pilate then went out to them." " The judgment 
hall of Pilate" was undoubtedly a large apartment in the Tower of 
Antonia, situated in the north-west corner of the Temple area, and 
access to it might be had either by going around the western side of 
the Temple area, or still more directly by entering the western 
colonnade of the Temple precincts above. Pilate, without condemn- 
ing him, sent him to Herod Antipas, Tetrarch of Galilee, who had no 
doubt come up to the feast, and was occupying the magnificent palace 
of Herod the Great, near the Tower of Hippicus, where the chief 
priests and scribes stood and vehemently accused Jesus, and Herod 
(" that old Fox") with his men of war set him at nought and mocked 
him, and arrayed him in a gorgeous robe and sent him again to 
Pilate. The governor having examined him, informed the chief 
priests and the rulers and the people assembled in the yard of 
Antonia, that, as neither he nor Herod could find anything worthy 
of death in the Messiah, he would chastise and release him. But 
the malicious hierarchs having finally extorted his condemnation, 
he is taken into the Pretorium by the soldiers, arrayed in mock 
royalty, buffeted and smitten, treated with the utmost indignity and 
cruelty, and finally Pilate, occupying his judgment seat out on 
Gabbatha, or the pavement, brought him out of the Pretorium, and 
finding his final " Ecce-homo" appeal in vain, delivered him to them 
to be crucified, and that too when he himself, as well as his accuser, 
and Herod, the conscientious murderer of John the Baptist, all pro- 
nounced him innocent. And as they came out from the gate in the 
tower at the north-east corner of the Temple enclosure, they com- 
pelled Simon, who passed by "the Temple Gate on his way to Fish 
Gate, as he was" coming out of the country, " to bear his cross" to 
Golgotha. 

The distance traversed by the Saviour between the upper room 
and Golgotha was from four and one third to five miles, as 
follows : — (if the house of Annas be correctly located). 



84 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Distance travelled. Crucifixion witnessed by many. 

From Zion to Gethsemane . . . 850 to 900 yards. 

" Gethsemane to House of Annas . 2300 " 2400 " 

" House of Annas to High Priest's Palace 1400 « 2100 " 

« H. P. Palace to Council House . 200 « 400 « 

" Council House to Pretorium (in Antonia) 350 " 400 " 

" Pretorium to Herod's Palace . 950 « 1000 « 

" Herod's Palace back to Pretorium . 950 " 1000 « 

<< Pretorium to Golgotha ... 500 " 600 « 



7500 « 8800 « 

The extraordinary despatch with which the Saviour was appre- 
hended, tried, condemned, and executed by the Jewish hierarchy, 
is not alone indicative of their vindictive malice ; but clearly shows 
their fear of a rescue. Equally obvious is the fact that the people 
within the Temple enclosure were induced to clamor for his blood 
by the priests, who would probably admit none but such as they 
could bribe or otherwise influence ; and that his condemnation was 
unwillingly wrung from his judge, is too palpable to be denied. 
For the popularity of Jesus with the people generally, is not only 
manifest from the general tenor of the gospel narrative, but is espe- 
cially evidenced by the fact that « there followed him a great com- 
pany of people, and of women which also bewailed and lamented 
him." (Luke xxiii. 27.) The road to Anathoth and Nob, two 
cities of the priests, was probably the one passing close by (as it 
now runs through that quarter), and it is quite reasonable to sup- 
pose that the passers-by, who wagged their heads and reviled him, 
were probably of that disaffected region. We are nowhere told 
that the west side of Jerusalem was a place of sepulture, nor is 
there any sign that it ever was so used ; and even if it had been, 
the priests would never have hazarded the rescue of their victim by 
sending him through the city to execution at the place now called 
Calvary, even had it been (which however it was not) without the 
city wall. It is true, some of the conditions of the narrative might 
have met their fulfilment on that side of the city (granting for a 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



85 



Calvary outside the walls. The present Church is within. 

moment that the site of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre was at 
that time beyond the city wall), but there are some that could not 
possibly be supplied in all that quarter. The crucifixion might cer- 
tainly have occurred near the city, on that side, close to which a 
road might have passed. But the well known existence of exten- 
sively cultivated and occupied suburbs in that quarter would be 
fatal to the accommodation of the great crowd, to the prospect from 
afar, and to the existence of any place " over against" the cross, 
where the women could note the movements of the soldiers. Nor 
could the priests be accommodated with a sight, on account 
of intervening houses and walls ; but at the place I venture to 
designate, not only is there no clashing, but every indication is 
amply met and minutely fulfilled. Hundreds of thousands could 
witness it from the western slope of Olivet afar off ; and on its lower 
ledges, just across the Kedron, " over against" Golgotha, the women 
could sit so near as to observe the disposition made of the Saviour's 
corpse. 

But whether this location be correct or not, most evident is it, 
that the reputed site was not beyond the city wall, and hence must 
necessarily be a mislocation. For no engineer having any regard 
to the security of the wall, the extension of the city, or the general 
principles of economy or policy, would ever have located the " second 
wall" of Josephus, so as to exclude the present Church of the Holy 
Sepulchre, whether the Gennath Gate was located near Jaffa Gate 
or as low down as the most ardent adherent of tradition would have 
it. (See Art. Ch. Holy Sepulchre.) 

Mount Ziox. — Before that portion of the Tyropoeon which divides 
Zion from Akra became filled up with ruins and the accumulated 
rubbish of ages, Mount Zion must have been so precipitous on every 
side, except the narrow neck connecting it to the ridge of Akra — 
as it is indeed even now almost everywhere — that but slight forti- 
fications were sufficient to render it almost impregnable. Such is the 
shape of this world-famed mount, that the cleft by which its upper 



36 



CITY OF THE 



GREAT KING. 



Relative position of the hills of Jerusalem. 

portion was once perhaps deeply divided, imparted to the Holy Hill 
no slight resemblance to a heart, in the outline of its base. 

Akra. — That portion of the city built upon this hill is by far the 
most indefensible of all, its wall being located almost entirely upon 
the slope of the hill. It had, however, within it at one time a rocky 
eminence very strongly fortified by nature as well as by art ; but 
its advantages in a military point of view, in the hands of its owners, 
were regarded as more than counterbalanced when possessed by an 
enemy, owing to the facility it afforded for annoying the Temple 
worshippers : it was therefore deemed best by the Maccabees to hew 
down this towering acropolis, and cast it into the neighboring valley, 
which was accordingly done, as elsewhere related. 

Bezetha, Moriah, and Ophel. — A long and narrow ridge rises 
gradually a few hundred yards north of Damascus Gate, separating at 
first the valley in which that gate is situated from that on the east in 
which Herod's Gate is placed, and lower down the Kedron from the 
Tyropoeon. It runs nearly due south ; but inclines somewhat west- 
wardly a few hundred yards before it terminates in a sharp craggy 
point just below the pool of Siloam. It was originally continuous ; but 
has long since been severed by opening a passage through it about a 
hundred and fifty yards in width. The portion thus removed was com- 
posed of fine building stone divided into regular strata of convenient 
thickness for quarrying, as is still observable on each side of the cleft, 
and has no doubt furnished much of the material out of which the 
city wall, the Temple, and other massive structures were built. The 
section being perpendicular, it serves an admirable purpose for 
defence ; and hence the wall is nowhere so impregnable as the por- 
tion crossing the southern side of this pass. That portion of the 
ridge thus cut off on the north is now known under the name of 
Zahara, or Mount of Tombs, in which is the grotto of Jeremiah, 
and is used only as a Moslem place of interment — above, and below 
as a place of quarantine. 

That portion of the ridge within the city is called Bezetha, as 
far down as the Serai — the site of the ancient tower of Antonia— 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



87 



Hill of Moriah. 

where it was also divided by a trench cut in defence of that tower. 
This name was, no doubt, at one time applied to the hill Zahara, as 
well as to the intermediate portion before its removal. 

The title of Moriah, though at one time applied to the site of 
the whole city and to its environs, is now restricted to that portion 
of this long ridge within the walls of the Haram esh- Sheriff ; and all 
below the southern wall of the Haram (which is identical, no doubt, 
with that of the Temple) is called Ophel. Ophel at its upper 
extremity is perhaps as broad as any other portion of the ridge ; but 
becomes quite narrow a short distance below the Temple, and is 
very precipitous on the east. 



CHAPTER III. 



LOCAL FEATURES OF CITY AND ENVIRONS. 
— "A land of hills and valleys/' 
VALLEYS. 

Rephaim — Criant — Physician — Relaxed — Preserver. — The Val- 
ley of Rephaim seems to have risen in two heads west of Jerusalem, 
one commencing a few hundred yards west of the Greek Con 
vent of St. George, and the other near Wely Kamar, and uniting 
some distance below the Convent of the Cross, forming Wady-el- 
Werd. And when David " fetched a compass behind them, and 
came upon the Philistines over against the mulberry-trees, on hear- 
ing the sound of a going in the tops of the trees," or "groves of 
weeping," as Josephus calls them, they may have spread themselves 
either in its upper or lower branch. In the first instance, David's 
army would have gone up the Kedron to the neighborhood of Wely 
Kamah ; in the second they would have gone down some distance 
below En-rogel, and then have ascended a valley terminating just in 
the rear of the Hill of Evil Council. The latter would appear the 
more probable, according both to the Bible and Josephus. In the 
westernmost branch is situated, about one and a quarter miles from 
Jerusalem, the Convent of the Cross, beneath whose dome, accord- 
ing to tradition, " is the earth that nourished the root, that bore the 
tree, that yielded the timber, that made the cross"* — a form of ex- 

*" Under the high altar you are shown tants, so much more very stocks than itself 
the hole in the ground where the stump of the as to fall down and worship it." — Maundrell. 
tree stood ; and it meets with not a few visi- 



JERUSALEM 



— AS IT WAS. 



80 



Rephaiin. Tophet. 

pression that too often provokes a smile, and gives occasions for 
jestings that are not convenient, owing to rather an unfortunate 
resemblance to the phraseology of a well known nursery tale. 

Tophet — Timbrel — Tabret drum — Betrayed. — Valley of Slaugh- 
ter. — This name is applied in Scriptures not only to the lower part 
of the valley of Ilinnom, but to the upper part of the valley formed 
by the union of Kedron and Hinnom. It was the seat of the idola- 
trous services rendered to Moloch, who would appear from Jere- 
miah (xxxii. 35) to be identical with Baal. " Tophet was ordained 
of old ; yea, for the king it is prepared : he hath made it deep 
and large : the pile thereof is fire and much wood ; the breath of 
the Lord, like a stream of brimstone, doth kindle it." (Is. xxx. 33.) 
Was not a portion of it also appropriated as the public shambles ? 
The main entrance into it from the city seems to have been by a 
special gate west of Siloam, called East or Sun Gate (Gate of 
Baal). 

. How fearfully was fulfilled the doom denounced against this valley 
and the city, during the siege of Jerusalem ! (Jer. xix. 11.) " Thus 
saith < the prophet, speaking the word of the Lord of Hosts,' Even 
so will I break this people and this city as one breaketh a potter's 
vessel, that cannot be made whole again ; and they shall bury them 
in Tophet till there be no place to bury." And the historian re- 
cording unwittingly its fulfilment, informs us (W. vi., viii. 5) " that 
the very last struggle between the Jews and Romans occurred 
on this very spot;" and here, in this secure place where alone they 
could be interred with impunity, and where the stench would be least 
annoying,- it no doubt was, that " no fewer than 115,880 dead bodies 
had been carried out for burial through that one gate intrusted to 
the care of Manneus, who was appointed to pay the public stipend 
for carrying these dead bodies out" — and after this man ran away 
to Titus, many of the eminent citizens who told him that no fewer 
than 600,000 were thrown out at the gates ! (v., xiii. 7.) 

It was called Tophet, on account of the noise made by drums to 
drown the cries of children when thrown into the lap and arms of 



90 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Valley of the Sons of Hinnom. 

the heated brazen idol. But " the days come, saith the Lord, that 
it shall no more be called Tophet, nor the Valley of the Son of 
Hinnom, but the Valley of Slaughter : for they shall bury in Tophet 
till there be no place:" hence its proper appellation at present is 
" Valley of Slaughter." 

Valley of Hinnom — Riches — Thine they are. — Valley of Ben- 
Hinnom — Valley of the Children of Shrieking — Gehenna — rtwa — 
Hades. — The valley heading very gradually a few hundred yards 
around Birket Mamilla, running thence toward Yaffa Gate, and thence 
surrounding Mount Zion on the west, and continuing down below En- 
rogel, is so called in the Scriptures ; but this name is now generally 
restricted to its lower portion, which is also called Tophet in the 
Scriptures. In this place — which reaches to the base of the Mount 
of Corruption — children were, at one time, offered in sacrifice to 
Moloch ("horrid king") by throwing them into the arms of the 
heated, hollow, brazen statue of this god — from which they pro- 
bably fell into the blazing furnace below. With a view of so pol- 
luting this place that the idolatrously disposed Jews would loathe 
and forsake it for ever, good King Josiah utterly polluted it by 
making it the receptacle perhaps both of filth and dead men's bones. 
(2 Kings xxiii. 10.) It is generally supposed that fires were con- 
tinually kept burning here to consume the filth ; but this is rather 
inconsistent with the intention of Josiah : though this may have 
been done after the captivity, when the Jews became so thoroughly 
weaned from idolatry. Having been the scene of such pollution, 
wickedness and torment, it became a fit emblem of everlasting pun- 
ishment. " There are two palm-trees in the valley of Hinnom, 
between which a smoke arises ; and this is that we learn — < the 
palms of the mountain are fit for iron.' And this is the door of 
Gehenna." — Talmud. 

"First, Moloch, horrid king, besmeared with blood 
Of human sacrifice, and parents' tears : 
Though, for the noise of drums and timbrels loud, 
Their children's cries unheard, that passed through fire 
To his grim idol. Him, the Ammonite 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



01 



Kedron or Jehosaphat. 

Worshipped in Rabba and her watery plain, 

In Argol and in Basan, to the stream 

Of utmost Arnon. Nor content with such 

Audacious neighborhood, the wisest heart 

Of Solomon he led by fraud to build 

His temple right against the temple of God, 

On that opprobrious hill ; and made his grove, 

The pleasant valley of Hinnom thence 

And black Gehenna called, the type of Hell." — Hilton. 

Valley of Kidron, Kedron or Cedron. 
(From Kedar — dark, gloomy, sad, filthy.} 
Jehosaphat — Valley oe Decision. 

" There is a spot within this sacred dale, 
That felt Thee kneeling, touched thy prostrate brow — 
One angel knows it." 

The valley commencing on the north-west of Jerusalem, in two 
gentle depressions on the southern slope of the Scopus, and encom- 
passing the city on the north and east, terminating at its junction with 
another similar valley on the south and west, is the Kedron of the 
Bible and of Josephus; but is called Jehosaphat by Jews, Chris- 
tians, and Mahomedans. Or at least the Arabs call a portion of it 
Shafat, in contraction it is thought of Jehoshaphat ; though they 
generally call it " Valley of Sitte Myriam" — St. Mary's V alley. Mr. 
Williams says that they also term it the Valley of Gehinnom, but 
I have never heard them so denominate it. If restricted, however, 
to its termination it would be no misnomer — so far at least as Tophet 
and Hinnom are synonymous. This designation of the valley seems 
to extend back to the very dawn of inventive, monkish nomencla- 
ture of holy places ; and is equally gratuitous and absurd, whether 
due to the mistaken notion that this valley is alluded to by Joel in 
his prophecy about the "Valley of the Judgment of God" (Yehosa- 
phat), or to the equally mistaken idea that King Jehosaphat was 
buried in the tomb that now bears his name — for not only is the 
term a general, instead of a specific one, and the valley far too 
limited to contain even a ten-thousandth part of the " all nations" 



92 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Jehosaphat. Shaveh. King's Gardens. 

of Joel, but we are expressly informed that " Jehosaphat was buried 
in the city of David." The Valley of Jehosaphat, or Decision, is 
in all probability the great Valley of Megiddo, or Armageddon, the 
wide plain of Esdraelon, where so many important battles have 
been fought by Jews, Egyptians, Assyrians, Tartars, Turks, Sara- 
cens, Franks, &c. 

That this valley was used as a place of sepulture, according to the 
repeated declarations of 'Scripture, the tombs that abound through- 
out its length and breadth, amply testify. Vineyards, figyards, and 
oliveyards, gardens and patches of green, occupy the entire extent. 
Valley of Shaveh, or King's Dale, was perhaps the name under 
which its lower portion was first known. Was it called Kedron, or 
Filthy, on account of receiving the blood and other offal from the 
Temple ? Rabbi Akaba says there was a certain cave (cess-pool) 
beneath the altar, whereby filth and uncleanness was carried down 
into the valley of the Kedron ; and the gardeners paid so much 
money as would purchase a trespass offering, for the privilege of 
fertilizing their gardens with it. 

Valley of Shaveh, or King's Dale. — This celebrated dale 
could be no other than the valley of the Kedron, if the monument 
now called Tentour Pharoon, just below the south-west corner of the 
Harem es-Sheriff, be identical, as tradition reports, with the " pillar" 
" which" Absalom in his lifetime had taken and reared up for him- 
self, which is in the King's Dale : for he said, " I have no son to 
keep my name in remembrance ; and he called the pillar after his 
own name; and it is called unto this day Absalom's Place." But 
as tradition is evidently at fault in relation to this pillar, nothing 
conclusive can be determined by the position of this monument. 
The King's Gardens undoubtedly occupied the lower portion of the 
valley of the Kedron at its junction with the valleys of Tyropoeon 
and Hinnom, and it is probable in the highest degree that the entire 
valley was at that time called the King's Dale. 

The King's Gardens. — This royal paradise must evidently have 
been very extensive — reaching at least from the mouth of the Tyro- 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 93 
Royal Wine Presses. Motsa; Gihon. 

pocen to the defile in which En-rogel is situated — for we learn from 
Josephus (Ant. ix. x : 4) that " a great earthquake (doubtless that 
alluded to by the prophet Zachariah, xiv. 5) occurred before the 
city at a place called En-rogel, in the reign of Uzziah. Half the 
mountain broke off from the rest on the west and rolled itself four 
furlongs, and stood still at the east mountain (Olivet), till the roads 
as well as the King's Gardens were spoiled by the obstruction." This 
description is only applicable to the Wady-en-Nair, just below En- 
rogel : where indeed the hillside still appears as though it may have 
undergone such a convulsion ; though there is room to suspect some 
exaggeration in relation to the distance the land-slide is said to have 
slipped ; but perhaps his meaning is, not that the avalanche actually 
travelled or " rolled" that far, but the mass was that length — having 

7 O O 

separated near the Hill of Evil Council, but only slidden down a few 
score yards. 

The King's Wine Press, for aught that we learn from the Bible, 
Josephus, or any other authentic source, may have been excavated 
either in the rocks of the Mount of Corruption, Ophel, Zion, or 
Aceldama Cliff. There are no observable remains of the vat ; but 
very suitable places all around the King's Gardens for its excavation. 

Motsa was probably situated in the lower part of the valley 
formed by the junction of Kedron and Ben-Hinnom (Wady-en-Nair), 
a place much better adapted to the growth of willows, than any other 
spot about Jerusalem — a locality which also best accords with the 
Talmudic account. It seems to have been a grove of willows, reared 
for the purpose of supplying boughs for celebrating the Feast of 
Tabernacles. "Below the city," says Dr. Lightfoot, after the 
Rabbins, " was a place, Motza : hither they came down and cropped 
off thence long boughs of willow ; and going away, placed them near 
the sides of the altar, bended after that manner that their heads 
might bow over the top of the altar, &c." 

Valley of Gihon — Valley of Grace or Breast — This is the 
name both of a fountain and a place of considerable extent ; but it 
is only the latter that will be here considered. 



91 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Scene of Solomon's inauguration. 

The first mention of this term occurs in the account of the sum- 
mary installation of the "King that was preacher in Jerusalem." 
(1 Kings i. 83.) Few localities have been so much the sport of topo- 
graphical speculation and tradition as this place, which has been 
located almost everywhere about Jerusalem, except the right place. 
The present locality assigned it is the valley south-west of Jerusa- 
lem, called in the Scriptures Ben-Hinnom. But the utter incompa- 
tibility of that site with the declaration (2 Ch. xxxiii. 14), that 
" Manasseh built a wall without the City of David, on the west side 
of Gihon in the valley even to the entering in at the Fish Gate," is 
evidence enough of its mislocation ; for a wall built in this valley on 
its west side, would everywhere be located to great disadvantage, 
and in many places be no defence whatever, owing to the cliffs of 
Hinnom overtopping it. But besides this negative proof of its mis- 
location, the well ascertained position of the Fish Gate clearly shows 
that the Yalley of Gihon could be no other than that heading north- 
west of Damascus Gate and gently descending southward, uniting 
with the Tyropoeon at the north-east corner of Mount Zion, where 
the latter turns at right angles and runs towards Siloam. The wall, 
thus built by Manasseh on the west side of the Valley of Gihon, 
would extend from the vicinity of the north-east corner of the wall 
of Zion in a northerly direction, until it crossed over the valley to 
form a junction with the outer wall at the trench of Antonia — pre- 
cisely in the quarter where the Temple would be most easily assailed. 

Although this location of Gihon may be rather startling to those 
who are wedded to the school of oral tradition, yet it is unquestion- 
ably the only view of the matter by which Manasseh's construction 
of the wall can be reconciled with the " stubborn facts" of the case : 
most evident is it that it is perfectly consistent with everything men- 
tioned in connexion with it, either in the Scriptures or Josephus. 
The correctness of this location is also confirmed by the etymologi- 
cal import of the term. For it is certainly a most graceful and well 
favored valley. 

And if that hemispherical rocky prominence which stands in the 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 95 
Fuller's Field and Monument. Valley of Dead Bodies and Ashes. 

centre of the valley, were surrounded by a circular wall of white 
marble enclosing a rotunda-shaped building, the other etymological 
term, suggested perhaps by the simile which Israel's great builder 
of « palaces, temples, and piles stupendous," uses in a closing 
stanza of his Canticles, would by no means be an inexpressive one. 
Josephus, in speaking of Herodium, the site of Herod's famous 
castle — a circular hill like this, but larger — expressly compares it to 
" a woman's breast." 

Fuller's Field and Monument. — Josephus mentions the monu- 
ment, yet makes no allusion to the Field of the Fuller : and the 
Bible, which several times speaks of the field, makes no mention of 
the monument. But it is sufficiently obvious, from the manner in 
which such mention is made, that they are in the same general direc- 
tion ; and are, no doubt, reciprocally connected. The field extended 
perhaps from the monument or its immediate vicinity ; and reached 
within a short distance of the northern curvature of the " Second 
Wall." 

The fountain and pool of Gihon were in this field ; and of course 
a very extended area would be required for the various fulling, 
bleaching, and cleansing operations practised near the metropolis 
of such a people as the Jews. 

Josephus informs us (W. v. iv: 2), that the "Third Wall," after 
passing the sepulchral caverns of the Kings, bent again at the Tower 
of the Corner, at the monument which is called the Monument of 
the Fuller. At what point this great north-eastern bending of the 
wall must needs have been, no one acquainted with the physical 
features of that region can at all doubt. No great error can there- 
fore be committed in assigning the Fuller's Monument a place : 
though there are now no ruins that can be positively recognised as 
its remains. 

Valley of Dead Bodies and of Ashes — Intermediate Valley. — 
This name might well be regarded as a synonym of the Sepulchral 
Kedron, but for its specific location elsewhere. It is evident, how- 
ever, that it is the shallow valley lying between the Kedron and the 



96 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Valley of Dead Bodies and Ashes. Ashes Valley. 

valley north of Damascus Gate, terminating originally opposite the 
Garden of Gethsemane, but now drained by the traditionary 
Bethesda near St. Stephen's Gate. Though nearly reduced to a 
plain by the accumulations of ages, many of its tombs are still to 
be seen along its sides north of the city wall. The hill separating 
it from the Damascus Gate valley (the true Gihon) is still a favorite 
place of burial — Turbet Zahara, or Mount of Tombs. The only 
time it is mentioned, is when the prophet is speaking of the enlarge- 
ment of the city — " The whole valley of the dead bodies, and of the 
ashes, and all the fields unto the brook Kedron, unto the corner of 
the Horse Gate, toward the east, shall be holy unto the Lord." 
(Jer. xxxi. 40.) This valley is known to the Moslem population of 
Jerusalem under the appellation of Wady-ez-Zahara — a name by 
which it is also designated in the Koran. Their traditions connect 
it so unpleasantly with the day of judgment, that, though its upper 
westernmost portion is much coveted as a place of burial, the living 
entertain quite a dread of it. 

Ashes Valley of Kedron, was probably that beautiful and fer- 
tile expansion of this valley north-east of the city, where the ashes 
of the Temple were deposited. Travellers have generally supposed 
that the ash-mounds north of the city are the remains of the Temple 
cinerary deposit ; but this is altogether inconsistent with the account 
of their disposition found in the Talmudic writings, where it is 
stated that the "ashes from the Temple altar were carried out of 
the city by the priests, who laid them in a calm place, that the wind 
might scatter them as little as possible." It is added that "these 
ashes might not be put to any use ;" but it is probably only a pro- 
fane use that is thus prohibited. For it is highly probable that the 
first fruits of the harvest were brought from the valley thus richly 
fertilized. (Lev. xxiii. 10, 11.) Jeremiah declares, in speaking 
of the enlargement of the city, that " the whole valley of the dead 
bodies and of the ashes should be holy unto the Lord." (xxxi. 40.) 
But he there has reference not to this spot, but either to the burial 
ground on which the ashes and pulverized dust of the idol groves, 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



Reaping "The Sheaf of First Fruits." Tyropoeon. 



images, &c, destroyed by Josiah, were strown (2 Kings xxiii. 6, 2 
Chr. xxxiv. 4), or to the valley intermedial between the Kedron 
and the true valley of Gihon, where Damascus Gate is situated, 
which seems to have been anciently used — indeed its eastern slope 
is now used in part for a cemetery. The Rabbins depose as follows, 
according to the citations of Dr. Lightfoot. " The sheaf of first 
fruits was reaped from the Ashes Valley of Kedron. The first day 
of the feast of the Passover, certain persons deputed from the San- 
hedrim went forth into that valley, a great company attending them, 
and very many of the neighboring towns flocked together that the 
thing might be done — a great number being present. They per- 
formed the thing with as much show as could be. When it was 
now even, he, on whom the office of reaping laid, saith: — 

» The sun is set." 
And they answered, 

"Well." 

" With this reaping hook." 
And they answered, 

"Well; with this reaping hook." 

" In this basket." 
And they answered, 

"Well." 

" On this Sabbath." 
And they answered, 

"Well." 

" I will reap." 
And they answered, 

" Well, I will reap." 
And they answered, 

"Well." 

This he said thrice ; and they answered thrice, 
"Well." 

Valley of Cheesemongers — Tyropo3ox — Tvpos-jtow — Valley 
of OheesemaJcers — Oaseariorum. — This word does not occur in 
7 



98 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Cheesemongers' Valley or Tyropoeon. 

the Scriptures, and all that we definitely know of it from ancient 
authority is contained in a single paragraph of Josephus — that it 
issued into the Kedron at the pool of Siloam, and distinguishes the 
hill of the upper city from that of the lower (W. v. iv : 1). But 
though only once definitely mentioned, yet the localities in connexion 
with it are so well identified, that one would suppose no point better 
established than the location of this valley. Yet, although its posi- 
tion from Siloam as far as Temple street is undisputed, its farther 
continuation has been the subject of warm and protracted contro- 
versy — one party contending that its course continues straight on 
northward beyond Damascus Gate — the other that it turns to the 
left, around the north-east corner of Mount Zion in the direction 
of Temple street, or, as its upper portion is called, David street, to 
its origin near Jaffa Gate. And that this is its true position there 
is not the slightest occasion to doubt, though the ravine of which 
Josephus speaks is now nearly effaced — being concealed by the long- 
continued accumulation of rubbish. Its situation, however, is still 
obviously indicated by the overhanging brow of Zion — for the Zion 
side of the valley being higher than the Akra, is still conspicuous. 
That it was once very deep is evident ; for, without such a ravine as 
that of which Josephus speaks, Zion could never have been the 
stronghold that it is represented to have been. 

That all that portion of the valley running north and south was 
once called Gihon is highly probable — see articles Gihon Valley and 
Gihon Fountain. It is reasonable to suppose that the name Tyro- 
poeon was at first restricted to that portion of the valley running 
eastward, and was only afterward applied to it farther down where 
the cheesemakers, being crowded out of the central part of the city, 
were compelled to pursue their avocation lower down in this valley ; 
and of course brought their name with them. There was, no doubt, 
a broad street extending on the north of the wall along the declivity 
of Zion dividing this hill from Akra ; and the valley very naturally 
received its name from the cheese bazaars on that street, which, 
gradually extending downwards, imparted its name to the valley 



JERUSALEM — A SIT WAS. 99 
Parbar or Suburbs. 

once undoubtedly called Gihon Valley. That there was a valley — 
perhaps at one time quite deep and extensive, which entered the 
Tyropoeon from the south, after dividing the northern half of Mount 
Zion nearly equally — is very obvious on inspection, though I have 
nowhere met with any allusion to it in any author either ancient or 
modern. 

Suburbs — Parbar — Parvar — npoatftf«w. — This term is obviously 
used by Josephus with considerable latitude, evidently restricted at 
one time to the vacant space west of the Temple inclusive of the 
Xystus Yard (Ant. xv. xi. 5), called in the Scriptures Parbar (1 Ch. 
xxvi. 18), and manifestly at another in its ordinary acceptation to 
signify unoccupied environs, and yet again to designate the extra- 
mural city (W. v. vi : 2). In the former acceptation, the suburbs 
present the anomaly of being in the very heart of the city, but when 
first so designated they were probably not walled in — being both 
before and without the city. A vacant space seems to have ex- 
tended all around the sacred enclosure. When we remember, how- 
ever, that they are the suburbs of the Temple and not of the city, 
the apparent impropriety of designation vanishes. That portion 
of the sacred enclosure in which was situated the chamber of 
Nathan Melek the chamberlain, where the kings of Judah had 
dedicated horses to the sun (2 Kings xxiii. 11), appears to have been 
either on the east or south of the Temple, and is distinctly called 
the suburbs. Josephus, in mentioning that two gates led to the 
suburbs (i. e. on the west), while one led over the bridge to the palace, 
and the other by many steps over to Akra, seems to intimate that 
the vacant space (if any) between Akra and Moriah was not ex- 
pressly called suburbs. Still it is highly probable that there was a 
vacant space all around the Temple entitled to that appellation — 
though that on the south being used for exercising with horses and 
chariots, that on the east as a cattle market, and that on the north 
for military purposes, may not have been generally so denominated. 
That the houses of the city were separated some distance from the 
Temple wall except at one point (probably on the north), is strongly 



100 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Maktesh. Xystus. 

intimated in various portions of the Talmud (see Chagiah, fol. lxxvi 
1). And that the suburbs were not at a distance as contended by 
some eminent topographers, is abundantly evident from 2 Kings 
xxiii. 11, where the suburbs obviously reach the gate of the 
Temple. 

Maktesh. — That portion of the outer or vacant space around the 
Temple wall, lying between Xystus and the Fish Gate, it would 
seem from the etymology of the term, as well as from the only place 
in which it is mentioned in the Scriptures, must be assigned as the 
Quarter of Maktesh. That this place was quite a mercantile quarter 
is evident from the fact that the Tabernse or Temple Bazaars were 
here situated. The passage just alluded to (Zeph. i. 10, 11) seems 
to be altogether consonant with this view, and irreconcilable with 
any other — " There shall be the voice of a cry from the Fish Gate, 
and an howling from the second, and a great crashing from the 
hills ! howl, ye inhabitants of Maktesh — for all the merchant people 
are cut down ; all they that bear silver are cut off." The mint 
establishment was doubtless situated in this part of the suburbs, as 
well as the Council House, Repository of the Archives, &c. 

Xystus — Xvatos — Gymnasium — Gcallery. — We are mainly in- 
debted for what we know of this place to the casual allusions in 
Josephus and the Apocrypha. The covered colonnade to which 
this term primarily applied, was situated in the Tyropoeon, imme- 
diately at the base of the north-eastern cliff of Mount Zion below 
the royal palace ; and was founded under Antiochus Epiphanes, 
about 175 B. C. ; the term, however, as used by Josephus, 
applies not only to this colonnade, but to that portion of the Tyro- 
poeon between it and the temple, being a part of Parbar or the 
suburbs — bounded on the south by the great Templo-Zion Bridge, 
and on the north by the "first wall" of Josephus. The gallery 
probably extended entirely around this quadrangular area, which, 
no doubt, was handsomely paved, and adorned perhaps with foun- 
tains and reservoirs fed by the aqueduct from Solomon's pools, 
which skirted the east side of Zion at a considerable height above 



JERUSALEM 



— AS IT WAS. 



101 



Gymnasium. The Great Bridge. 

the Xystus court. The Xystus is no doubt but another name for 
the memorable gymnasium, built by the infamous high priest Jason 
(or as he was called by the Jews — Jesus), who gave Antiochus one 
hundred and fifty talents for the privilege of erecting this structure * 
and an academy for the purpose of liberalizing, or rather genti- 
lizing, the Jews. But though, for a long while, appropriated to 
athletic exercises after the manner of the heathen, it seems in after 
ages to have been used merely as the great gathering-place of the 
Jews. They were here assembled when the great-grandson of 
Herod the Great, who was afterwards " almost persuaded to become 
a Christian," addressed them, probably from the top of the colon- 
nade just beneath his palace — which may well have formed the floor 
of his portico — placing at the same time his beautiful and accom- 
plished, but ill-famed, half-sister, Bernice, at the window or bal- 
cony above. Here the Jews were also assembled when Titus 
addressed them from the lofty cloisters of the Temple. The 3000 
Pentecostal converts were also probably congregated here when the 
Apostle Peter, in discharging the great commission with which he 
had been invested by the Saviour at Cresarea Philippi, directed the 
convinced penitents, in reply to their anxious inquiry what to do to 
be saved — to "repent and be baptized, every one of them, in the 
name of Jesus Christ, for the remission of sins." 

Tyropoeon Bridge — Templo-Zion Bridge — " The Ascent" — 
Causeway or Causey, 1 Ch. xxvi. 16-18. — This celebrated structure, 
at which the good Queen of Sheba was so much amazed, afforded a 
direct passage from Mount Zion to the Temple — obviating the ne- 
cessity of a toilsome and circuitous walk up and down the declivi- 
ties on each side of the Tyropoeon. Owing to the great accumu- 
lation of rubbish at the base of Mount Zion, where its western end 
evidently abutted, no remains of it are now observable ; but on the 
opposite side, where it united with the Temple wall, there are very 
considerable remains — and in such a state of preservation as to 
afford all the elements of calculation requisite for its restoration. 
The breadth of the Tyropoeon at this point, where it approached 



102 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Tyropoeon Bridge. Red Heifer Bridge. 

the nearest to Mount Moriah, is about 118 yards, which, of course, 
limits the length of the bridge. Its breadth was 51J feet, and the 
span of its arches, if uniform, 41 feet (as deduced from the portion 
now standing). A suitable adjustment of the strength of the piers 
to the immense masses of stone to be sustained, probably limited 
the number of arches to five. Some of the rocks now constituting 
the spring of the broken arch, are about 5f feet thick, and vary in 
length from 21 to 25 feet. 

The antiquity of the structure to which these ruins belonged, has 
been a subject of much discussion from the period when Dr. Robin- 
son first called attention to the subject, and suggested their con- 
nexion with the bridge so frequently mentioned by Josephus and 
generally ascribed to Solomon, down to the present time. This high 
antiquity, however, is not universally conceded; but questioned, 
mainly because certain archaeologists have denied the discovery — - 
or at least the practical use — of the arch at a period farther back 
than the sixth century before Christ. But as no one questions that 
the large reservoirs at El Burak, called Solomon's Pools, are really 
the work of that monarch, and of course were constructed about 
1000 years before the Christian era, the architecture of these works 
ought to have an important bearing upon the decision of this ques- 
tion. Having, after long awaiting an opportunity, at last succeeded 
in exploring the room underneath the lowest of these pools, and 
also that of the "Fountain Sealed," by whose waters they are 
mainly supplied, I was delighted to find as veritable an arch as ever 
was made — and with a true keystone, too — and not only arches but 
vaults ! This objection is, therefore, no longer tenable. Arches 
of a still higher antiquity have also been lately discovered in Egypt 
and Assyria. Neither their great antiquity nor their Solomonic 
origin need therefore be any longer called in question. 

The Bed Heifer Bridge. — That the Kedron valley was spanned 
by a lofty bridge as well as the Tyropoeon, is an unquestionable 
fact, though not once mentioned by modern writers on the Holy 
City. It was through the eastern gate of the Temple, according 



JERUSALEM 



— AS IT WAS. 



103 



Comparative Levels. 

to the Mishna, that the red heifer was conducted forth over the 
Kedron to be burned on the Mount of Olives ; and by the same 
way, according to some authors, the scape-goat was led forth to the 
wilderness ; but according to others by a mere temporary structure 
made for the occasion every year. " They built," say the Rabbins, 
"at no small cost a foot causey, upheld with arches, from the 
Mount of the Temple to the Mount of Olives, upon which they led 
away the red heifer to be burned. It was double-arched — arches 
upon arches — one arch upon two arches, so that the foot of one arch 
stood upon two arches that were there underneath it." 

Comparative Levels. — Having thus noticed all the hills and val- 
leys of Jerusalem and its suburbs, it may be well to record their 
respective elevations and depressions connectedly, in order that the 
general topography may be the better understood from this com- 
parison of heights and depths. The best stand-point of observation 
for general comparison is the plot of ground on which the " Church 
of Ascension" stands, though this is by no means the most elevated 
point about Jerusalem, as has been generally supposed. By means 
of the following table of elevations, beginning at En-rogel (which 
is 129 feet higher than the valley at the lower edge of the large 
map, where Wady-Geddoom enters En Nair, and including all the 
most important points), the reader can readily ascertain the relative 
elevation of many places not specified. 

From En-rogel to Pool of Siloam .... 117 feet. 
" " " Kedron Valley opposite Absalom's Pillar 223 " 
" " " Base of the S. E. corner of Haram Wall 348 " 
" " " Mugaribeh Quarter .... 350 " 
" " " Mount Ophel immediately south of the 

Haram 377 " 

" <• " Mount of Corruption • . . 422 " 
" " " Top of wall at S. E. corner of Haram 425 " 
<< « " Top of Mission House . . . 461 " 
" " " North-east corner of city . . 471 " 



104 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Comparative Levels. 

From En-rogel to Bethany Mount .... 484 feet. 

« « « Mount Zahara . . . . 498 " 

« « " Hill of Evil Council . . .506 « 

" " " Zion at S. W. corner of City "Wall 511 « 

« « « Average height of Zion . . . 521 " 

« « « Jaffa Gate . . . . . 534 " 

" « « Bezetha (Summit) .... 550 " 

" « " N. W. corner of city . . . 571 " 

" " « The site of Jebel et-Tur village . 635 " 

« " " Wely east of it . . <• 653 " 

" " « Wely Kamah . . . 655 « 



» " » Kock hillock on an elevation of Olivet 

1000 feet N. of Jebel et-Tur village 678 « 
" " « Northernmost summit of Olivet . 708 " 

The village of Jebl Tur is 412 feet above the Kedron at Absa- 
lom's Pillar ;" it is 104 feet above Zion, and 227 above the Haram 
area. The south-east angle of the Haram Wall, at its base, is 125 
feet above the Kedron valley at "Absalom's Pillar," as Tantour 
Pharoon is usually called. Mount Zion is 404 feet above Siloam. 
The north-west corner of the city is 163 feet higher than the Haram 
area ; and the Haram area is 185 above the Kedron. 

The greatest difference of level found within the limits of the 
two miles square embraced by the map is between the loftiest sum- 
mit of Mount Olivet in the north-east corner, and the depression of 
Wady en-Nair at its lower edge — 837 feet. Within the limits of the 
present city the greatest difference of altitude — that between the 
south-east and the north-west corner — is 221 feet. The difference 
in the ancient city, under its widest extension, was probably about 
530 feet. 

The Holy City is elevated 2610* feet above the Mediterranean, 



* According to Captain Lynch's estimate; 
but 2749 according to aneroid indication. 
A few of the foregoing altitudes and depres- 



sions were ascertained with the level — somo 
with the aneroid, hut most of them by the 
quadrant. 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS 105 
Boundary between Judah and Benjamin. 

and 3927 above the Dead Sea. It is 210 feet higher than Damas- 
cus, but about 1000 lower than Baalbec. Mount Zion is 148 feet 
lower than Neby Samwil ; and 9 feet below the Frank Mountain — 
the ancient Beth-Haccerem — a celebrated telegraphic station in for- 
mer times — but several hundred feet higher than its base. 

Boundary Line between Judah and Benjamin. — The division line 
between Judah and Benjamin is thus indicated in the chorography 
of the son of Nun : 

Lot of Judah. — Their border in the north quarter was from the 
bay of the sea at the uttermost part of Jordan — thence to Beth- 
Hogla — along the north of Betharabah to the stone of Bohan — up 
toward Debir from the Valley of Achor — northward toward Gilgal, 
before the going up to Adummim on the south side of the river 
[Kerith], passing towards the waters of En-shemesh — and the goings 
out thereof were En-rogel ; and the border went up by the valley of 
the Son of Hinnom unto the south side of the Jebusite (the same is 
Jerusalem). And the border went up to the top of the mountain 
that lieth before the Valley of Hinnom, westward, which is at tho 
end of the Valley of Giants, northward, and the border was drawn 
from the top of the hill unto the fount of the waters of Nephtoah, 
and went out to the cities of Mount Ephraim ; and the border went 
down to Baalah, which is Kirjath-Jearim. (Josh. xv. 5-9.) 

Lot of Benjamin. — The south quarter was from the end of 
Kirjath-Jearim on the west side ; and went out to the well of waters 
of Nephtoah. And the border came down to the end of the moun- 
tain that lieth before the Valley of the Son of Hinnom, and which 
is in the Valley of the Giants, on the north, and descended to the 
Valley of Hinnom, to the side of Jebusi, on the south, and descended 
to En-rogel, and was drawn from the north and went forth to En- 
shemesh (< Apostles fount'), toward Geliloth — over against Adum- 
mim, down to Bohan, down to Arabah, along the side of Beth- 
Hoglah ; and the out-goings of the border were at the north bay of 
the Salt Sea, at the south end of Jordan — this was the south coast. 
(Josh, xviii. 15-19). 



106 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Ain Yalo not on the boundary line. 

By tracing upon any good map* the boundary line here indi- 
cated — for these two courses are the same (merely reversed in 
order of description), — it will be rendered perfectly obvious that it 
neither runs through Jerusalem nor by Ain Yalo — as contended by 
many topographers, but to the south and west of the city, by way 
of the fountain now called Lifta — which, however, is undoubtedly 
the Nephtoah of the Scriptures. The importance of obviating the 
serious errors and confusion, consequent upon the mistaken views 
in relation to the location of this border-line, must plead an apology 
for this uninteresting little detour. 

* In order to understand many portions of Bible student. Such a work the reader will 

the Scriptures, and to harmonize with them find in the large sheet lately published by 

the accounts of Josephus and other writers the author, entitled "Map of Jerusalem and 

on the Holy Land and the Holy City, a more Environs, from Actual and Minute Survey," 

accurate and detailed map than any hereto- which may here be advantageously consulted, 
fore executed, becomes indispensable to the 



CHAPTER IV. 



VARIOUS QUARTERS OF THE CITY. 
"Whither goest thou ?" 

" To measure Jerusalem : to see what is the breadth thereof, and what is the length thereof." 

Zech. ii. 2. 

SUCCESSIVE DEVELOPMENT. 

After the foregoing cursory view of the chorographic position, 
physical features, and climate of Jerusalem and its vicinity, we are 
prepared to enter upon the consideration of its various localities in 
detail. And in order to render the subject as clear as possible, it 
will be considered in its chronological order of development, com- 
mencing with the city of Melchisedec — the first phasis of the Pro- 
tean capital of the Holy Land. 

Salem — Perfect — At Peace — Vision of Peace. — Salem or Shalem 
was the primeval name borne by that city " whose antiquity is of 
ancient days" — which finally expanded into "the City of the Great 
King." (Gen. xiv. 18.) It probably occupied the south-eastern 
portion of the quarter of the city now generally called Akra — being 
separated from Mount Zion by the Tyropoeon Valley on the south ; 
from Mount Moriah, on the east, by a broad and deep valley — (the 
true Gihon, afterwards partially filled up by the Asmoneans, but 
still clearly indicated) — having, however, apparently no good natural 
defence on the north and west. But it is not to be supposed that 
the eminent « Priest of the Most High God, and exalted King of 
Peace and Righteousness," would require a strongly fortified place; 
but would rather select a site in reference to agricultural advantages, 
facility of access, supply of water, and general convenience. But 



108 



CITY OF THE GREAT 



KING. 



Akra or Lower City. Moriah. 

although its general surface was lower than any other portion of 
Jerusalem, yet its lofty Acropolis, which was afterwards occupied so 
long by the Syrians under Antiochus Epiphanes, despite the most 
strenuous efforts of the Jews to expel them for twenty years, and 
which required the incessant labor of all Jerusalem three years to 
level, after the Syrians were finally dispossessed of it, must have 
been a very commanding site for a palace and fortress. Josephus 
adds nothing to our topographical knowledge of Salem : neither do 
the Talmudic authors. It is several times afterward mentioned in 
Scripture (Heb. vii. 1, 2, and, synonomously with Zion, Ps. lxxvi. 2), 
but nowhere in such a way as to increase our knowledge of its 
physical features, except in connexion with the return of Abraham 
from his Gideon-like expedition, when " the King of Sodom went 
out to meet him on his return from the slaughter of Chedorlaomer 
and of the kings that were with him, at the Valley of Shaveh, which 
is the King's Bale, and Melchisedec, King of Salem,* brought forth 
bread and wine." (Gen. xiv. 17, 18.) It is believed to have been 
founded by Melchisedec (who is no doubt Shem, the second son of 
Noah), soon after the flood. 

The Lower City is an appellation by which Josephus frequently 
designates this portion of the city, even after it had extended so far 
up the side of the hill that a small part of it was even more ele- 
vated than Zion, which he calls the Upper City. 

Mount Moriah. — The mount that has absorbed and monopolized 
the name by which the whole cluster was once denominated is not 
only the least amongst them, but the term applies only to a small 
portion of it — that enclosed within the walls of the present Haram- 

* The identity of Salem and Jerusalem is among the Canaanites, and is in our tongue 

still a matter of doubt with many: but the called [Melchisedec] the righteous king, for 

second verse of the seventy-sixth Psalm such he really was ; on which account he 

seems to be decisive on the subject: — "In was [there] the first priest of God, and first 

Salem also is his Tabernacle ; and his dwell- built a temple [there], and called the city 

ing-place in Zion." The declaration of Jose- J erusalem, which was formerly called Salem." 

phus to the same effect is very express. (W. vi. 10.) 
'* But he who first built it was a potent man 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 109 
Jehovah-Jireh. Threshing-floor of Oman. 

esh-Sheriff, or the ancient Temple area — the northern portion of the 
ridge being called Bezetha, and the southern Ophel. 

The exact locality of "Jehovah-Jireh ," the spot selected by 
Abraham for the sacrifice of Isaac, is generally supposed to be the 
large elevated rock called emphatically es-Sakhrah, "the Rock" 
near the centre of the enclosure, directly under the dome of the 
Mosque of Omar (Kubbet es-Sakhrah). The Copts, however, have 
located this memorable transaction in their convent, immediately 
contiguous to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, hard by the reputed 
rock of Calvary. Tradition there locates with confidence, amidst 
heaps of rubbish, the very tree (an old olive it is) in which the 
ram's horns were entangled. But unfortunately for " infallible tra- 
dition," a room of masonry has been discovered beneath the tree, 
and beneath that room a tank of water ! But if it be assumed that 
the altar of Isaac and the cross of the Saviour occupied the same 
spot, as many contend, then must we look for it not amongst the 
sacred localities of the Church of St. Sepulchre, nor yet within the 
Temple enclosure, nor indeed anywhere else within the walls ; but 
on that portion of the ancient Moriah Hill, north-east of the Tem- 
ple area. That part of Moriah, however, on which David sacrificed 
at the finale of his perplexing trilemma " that the plague might be 
stayed from Israel," is undoubtedly situated within the present 
enclosure, which is identical in position with the ancient Temple 
area. Within this enclosure then — but certainly not on the elevated 
rock usually accredited as the spot — was the threshing-floor of 
Ornan, Arauna or Araniah the Jebusite, where the angel of the 
Lord commanded Gad to say to David that he should go up and set 
up an altar to the Lord (1 Sam. xxiv. 15, 25, and 1 Chr. xxi. 18, 
28,) — identical with which is the spot where David said, " this is the 
house of the Lord God ; and this is the altar of burnt offering for 
Israel." (1 Ch. xxii. 1.) The only remaining place where the Scrip- 
tures make reference to Mount Moriah by name, is (2 Ch. iii. 1) 
where Solomon is said subsequently to have built the House of the 
Lord at Jerusalem, where the Lord appeared to his father David 



110 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Jebus. City of David. 

"in the place that David had prepared in the threshing floor of 
Oman the Jebusite." 

Jebus — Jebusi — City of the Jebusi. — " The same is Jerusa- 
lem." It occupied both the site of Salem and the north-eastern 
portion of Mount Zion, and was probably captured and enlarged 
by the Jebusites soon after the death of Melchisedec, 1842 B. C. 
The city thus enlarged was named by the Jebusites in honor of 
Jebus the son of Canaan, and well fortified — especially the upper 
portion of it. (Josh. x. 1, 5, 28 ; xii. 10 ; xv. 8, 63, and xviii. 28. 
Jud. i. 8, 19 ; x. 12.) 

The City of David. — About five centuries after the first appear- 
ance of Jerusalem upon the page of history, it is again mentioned 
in the Sacred Record when narrating an account ot the wars of the 
Israelites against the Canaanites. The powerful army of the king 
of Jerusalem and of his five potent allies, was entirely routed by 
Joshua; und Adoni-Zedec, their "Righteous King,"* (as his name 
signifies), was slain ; and although the city was subsequently smitten, 
fired, and captured — at least in part — yet it could not have been per- 
manently held by the Israelites, for it is afterwards called "the 
City of the Jebusites" — " the city of a stranger" — and never was 
fully possessed by the children of Israel until finally subdued by 
David. True, we are told that, centuries before that event the chil- 
dren of Judah had fought against Jerusalem and had taken it ; and 
had smitten it with the edge of the sword, and set the city on fire 
(Jud. i. 8) ; yet that only part of the city was thus captured, or if 
entirely subjugated was soon retaken at least in part, is most evident, 
not only from the name by which the Levite of Ephraim designated 
it, but from the declaration (contained in the 63d verse of the 15th 
chapter of Joshua), " as for the Jebusites the inhabitants of Jerusa- 
lem, the children of Judah could not drive them out : but the Jebu- 



* It may reasonably be inferred from this Jerusalem was esteemed a sacred locality, 

application that his Gracious Majesty Adoni- even in the estimation of the heathen. It 

Zedec exercised a kind of ecclesiastical domi- was probably even at that early period dis- 

nion over the surrounding clans j and that tinctively styled " Holy City." 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



Ill 



Stronghold of Zion wrested from the Jebusites by David. 

sites dwell with the children of Judah at Jerusalem unto this day" — 
(1444 B. C). The final capture of the city, 1048 years before 
Christ, is thus recorded (2 Sam. v. 6, 9) : « And the king and his 
men went to Jerusalem unto the Jebusites, the inhabitants of the 
land : which spake unto David, saying, Except thou take away the 
blind and the lame, thou shalt not come in hither (thinking David 
cannot come in hither). Nevertheless David took the stronghold 
of Zion — the same is the City of David — and David said on that 
day, Whosoever getteth up to the gutter and smiteth the Jebusites, and 
the lame and the blind that are hated of David's soul, he shall be 
chief and captain. Wherefore they say the blind and the lame 
shall not come into the house. So David dwelt in the fort and called 
it the City of David ; and David built round about from Millo and 
inward." All at first included under the designation of " City of 
David" was the stronghold, fort, citadel, castle, or acropolis of the 
cliffs of Zion above the " ditches, gutters, or trenches ;" but is occa- 
sionally used in the Scriptures as the synonym of Jerusalem, com- 
prehending the whole city. Josephus, in describing the capture of 
the city, says : " David began the siege of Jerusalem, and employed 
his utmost diligence and alacrity therein : * * * so he took the 
lower city Salem [on Akra] by force ; but the citadel held out 
still : whence it was that the king, knowing that the proposal of 
dignities and rewards would encourage the soldiers to greater actions, 
promised that whoever should first go over the ditches that were 
beneath the citadel, and ascend the citadel itself and take it, should 
have the command of the entire people conferred upon him.* * * * 
" When David had cast the Jebusites out of the citadel, he also 
rebuilt Jerusalem and named it the City of David, and abode there 
all the time of his reign. * * * Now David made buildings round 
about the lower city [Salem] ; he also joined the citadel to it and 
made it one body, and when he had encompassed all with walls, he 
appointed Joab to take care of them. It was David therefore that 
first cast the Jebusites out of Jerusalem and called it by his own 
name the City of David, for under our forefather Abraham it was 



112 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Mount Zion. 

called (Salem or) Solyma." (Ant. vii. iii : 62 ; see also 1 Chr. xi. 
4, 8.) The City of David, in its restricted sense, occupied probably 
about one-fourth of Mount Zion, from which it seems to have been 
originally somewhat separated by a ravine commencing near its 
centre, and running northwardly into the Tyropceon. 

Sion — Noise. — Zion — Monument, Sepulchre, Turret, Dryness, 
Sunny Place. — The Upper City — Upper Market — The Holy 
Hill. — Zion is a term sometimes used synonomously with Salem, 
Jerusalem and City of David and City of the Great King ; but in its 
literal and restricted topographic meaning, it applies only to the 
south-western portion of the Holy City — of which the City of David 
is its north-eastern division. But this term is nowhere to be found in 
the writings of Josephus — this quarter of the city being called by 
him the City of David — the Upper City, and the Upper Market 
Place. In speaking of the hills upon which Jerusalem is built, he 
says, " that which contains the Upper City is much higher, and in 
length more direct ; accordingly it was called the Citadel by King 
David; but it is by us called the Upper Market Place." (W. v. 
iv : 1.) It approximates the shape of a regular parallelogram, and 
was originally nearly isolated, having apparently been only attached 
to the south-west corner of Akra by a very short isthmus or neck. 
The ravine or valley that originally separated it from Akra is now 
filled up in great measure. Its exact location, however, is quite 
obvious; for, on passing along from Jaffa Gate towards the Haram, 
the observer will notice that a few yards to his right Mount Zion 
rises up quite suddenly, and is many feet higher than Akra. The for- 
mer depression that originally divided the northern portion of Mount 
Zion into two parts is also nearly filled up at present, but its posi- 
tion is still plainly indicated along the street of the Jewish Bazaar. 
The sides of Mount Zion are much higher and steeper than those of 
any other quarter of Jerusalem, except the eastern declivity of 
Mount Ophel. The present wall running across Mount Zion ex- 
cludes about one-half of it from the city — and this excluded half is 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



113 



Upper Market, Millo, Beth Millo, Silla. 

divided about equally by the pottery aqueduct that now courses 
around the hill. 

Upper Market. — This term is manifestly used to designate the 
whole of Mount Zion in general ; but has also occasionally a more 
restricted sense — meaning only the large market place on the sum- 
mit of the Holy Hill. 

Millo — Fulness. — Though so often mentioned in the Bible, and 
so long a matter of discussion, the exact position and nature of this 
place is still somewhat a matter of doubt. There is every reason to 
believe, however, that it was that part of Mount Zion where the 
cleft of Zion declined very rapidly towards the Acro-Zion portion 
of the Tyropceon Valley. The western wall of Jebus was probably 
built, on the eastern brow of this cliff or ravine, and when David 
determined to enlarge the city and enclosed the whole of Mount 
Zion, he concluded to fill up that depression, and render it suitable 
for building — hence called Millo. It was evidently embraced within 
the limits of the " City of David," as enlarged by him; and no 
other place besides this will at all answer the requirements of the 
case. It was evidently a place of considerable magnitude and im- 
portance. Excavations along the Jewish street revealed in several 
places the foundations of walls six feet in thickness, with arches 
similar to that, the crown of which may be seen near a dyer's shop 
on the Zion Gate street, about equally distant from the Anglican 
Hospital and the bazaars. May not these be the remains of the 
Millo structures ? 

Beth Millo — or the house of Millo — was perhaps a strongly forti- 
fied edifice at the entrance of the Zion Valley into the Tyropceon. 
Silla seems to have been situated either in the Tyropceon or at the 
mouth of Zion Valley, and was probably a strong subterranean struc- 
ture : but we know still less of this place than of Beth Millo. The 
present Jewish Bazaar indicates the general locality of Millo. Was 
Silla the name of Zion Valley ? « Millo, in the City of David" (2 
Ch. xxxii. 5), reads thus in the Septuagint — "to analeema tees 
poleos David — the elevation or fortification of the City of David." 
8 



114 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Ophel. 

David seems to have chosen that portion of Zion lying between his 
palace and Millo as the general site of royal edifices of various 
characters. 

The Jews hold Mamilla or Babilla, the ground about the so called 
upper pool of Gihon, to be Beth Millo ! 

Ophel — Ophal, Ophla, Ophlas, Opel, Aphla — for by all of 
these synonyms is it called, either in the Septuagint, the works of 
Josephus, or our English version of the Scriptures — signifies a swell- 
ing, mound, or tower. No mention of this place, either as a quarter 
of the city, a hill, or a tower, is anywhere made earlier than the 
reign of Jotham, "who built the high gate of the House of the 
Lord, and on the wall of Ophel he built much." (2 Chr. xxvii. 3.) 
In the margin this word is uniformly translated tower. This Tower 
or Ophel it was that " Manasseh encompassed about, and raised to 
a very great height." Josephus informs us (W. v. iv : 2), that it 
was " a certain place which they call Ophlas, where it (the wall) 
enclosing the city on the south-east, was joined to the eastern cloister 
of the Temple." But it was not actually united to the Temple en- 
closure, for we are told that Manahem,when overcome in the Temple, 
ran away to Ophla. (W. ii. xvii: 9.) The Tower of Ophel was 
evidently situated near the south-east corner of the Temple enclosure, 
and consequently near the cattle market ; and if at the depressed 
situation of the south-east corner, a special reason for raising it so 
high is perfectly obvious. It was no doubt a stupendous and mag- 
nificent structure ; and is the identical " strong-hold of the Daughter 
of Zion" so glowingly apostrophized by the prophet Micah (iv. 8). 

" And thou, tower of the flock ! 
(The strong-hold of the Daughter of Zion) 
Unto thee shall it come, even the first dominion, 
The kingdom shall come to the Daughter of Jerusalem." 

The quarter of Jerusalem called Akra derives its name, con- 
fessedly, from the celebrated citadel "Akra," so long occupied by 
the Syrians. In the same way, it is probable, the ridge of land 
lying south of the Temple, between the valleys Kedron and Tyro- 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



115 



Lower City or Akra. Sheep Market. 

poeon, now termed Ophel, may be so called from its great Tower 
Ophel or Ophla. This ridge is evidently a continuation of Mount 
Moriah, as Mount Moriah is of Mount Bezetha. 

This quarter of the city was the special abode of the Nethinim, 
Gibeonites, Levites — and probably Stationary Men, as well as Solo- 
mon's servants. But there is not now a single tenement upon all 
Mount Ophel, save a hovel or two of stone and mud, as " a lodge in 
a garden of cucumbers !" 

" Lower City," though very properly applying to the lower part 
of Akra, under its first phasis as Salem, was yet a very inappro- 
priate term after its extension upward : for while at first all of it 
was probably below every part of the Zion quarter, then called 
" Upper City ;" yet as it existed in the days of Josephus, a section 
of it was actually higher than any part of Zion, or the upper city ; 
and a portion of Zion was lower than any part of the lower city ; 
still, however, it occasionally bore its ancient name despite the evi- 
dent inconsistency. 

This quarter of the city has now a general slope to the east of 
one foot in six or eight ; but the lower portion was perhaps much 
more precipitous originally. The Maccabean princes not only cut 
away the celebrated rock to which this part of the city no doubt 
owed its name, but also filled up the valley separating Akra and 
Moriah — which must not only have altered its own topographic fea- 
tures, but also have had the effect of rendering all the valley above 
it much wider by the accumulation of the rubbish. 

Ophel is adjectively called "Lower City" by Josephus in the 6th 
Book of the Wars, chap. 7, paragraph 2 ; but Akra is the quarter 
of the city to which this term is specifically applied. 

The Sheep [Market] — Sheep Quarter. — According to official 
returns made by the high priests at the requisition of Cestius Gallus, 
President of Syria, for the information of the Emperor Nero, no less 
than 256,500 lambs or kids, but almost exclusively the former, were 
annually slain at the passover. And a very large number were of 
course always required to be kept near the Temple in a state of 



116 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Sheep Quarter. 

readiness for the altar. A very considerable space was thus required 
to be set apart for herding these vast flocks of sheep, to say nothing 
of other victims. It was highly desirable that they should be kept 
in some large and suitable enclosure, as near the Temple as possible, 
for convenience of inspection. For this purpose no place could be 
more convenient and suitable, in every respect, than the extensive 
yards and courts of Antonia immediately contiguous on the north ; 
but such an appropriation of its premises was utterly incompatible 
with the purposes for which they were exclusively designed. The 
Xystus, which was immediately adjacent on the west, though well 
situated in point of convenience, was not only otherwise appropria- 
ted, but much too small. The space immediately adjoining the 
Temple on the south would be very convenient, but this would be 
inconsistent with the design of the hippodrome ; and moreover, 
Ophel being the residence of the Nethinim and other attendants 
upon the Temple services, a sheep quarter there would interfere too 
much with their facility of access to the Holy House. And besides 
these insuperable objections it would be very difficult, if not impos- 
sible, to supply the requisite amount of water in that part of the 
city. Nor indeed would it be at all suitable to keep such a vast 
herd in any part of the city. 

Now, on the east of the Temple there was a space between its 
cloister and the eastern portion of the "first wall" of Josephus, 
admirably adapted in every respect for this great magazine of sacri- 
fices — which, though within the circuit of the wall, was yet outside 
the city — in an unappropriated spot, retired yet convenient, both 
from without and within, easily supplied with water and open to no 
objection. Here, then, is just the spot for the sheep quarter. And 
accordingly it is just here we find the sheep-gate — which, in entire 
accordance with the portal nomenclature of the city, is significantly 
designated. And right at hand we also find the Babel-like Ophel — 
that "great Tower of the Flock," as the prophet styled it, both of 
which facts are strongly confirmatory of the correctness of this loca- 
tion. It seems to have been commensurate in length, with the entire 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 117 
Coenopolis, Bezetha, or New City. 

breadth of the east side of the Temple, and in order to be sufficiently 
capacious must have extended in breadth nearly down to the Kedron. 
It was no doubt divided into numerous compartments for the conveni- 
ence of the cattle merchants ; and supplied with a capacious reser- 
voir, filled perhaps by diverting into it at least a portion of the 
descending stream of the "swift-gliding Kedron." 

How admirably these topographical facts correspond with the 
Scriptures, and incidentally sustain them ! They also show how 
important to the cause of Christianity it is that the utmost accuracy 
should be obtained in the location of all sacred places. 

Ccenopolis, Bezetha, or the "New City." — Although a small 
portion of the old city was situated upon the side of Bezetha hill before 
the erection of the third wall, yet this name only applied to that 
beyond the old wall ; but in process of time it comprehended all the 
new city, whether built upon this hill or on the adjacent valleys and 
plain. The general site of Ccenopolis was an irregular shallow, 
semilunar basin — divided however in its lower portion nearly 
equally by the hill (Bezetha), which indeed extended nearly across 
it, though scarcely perceptible at its upper extremity. 

The hill, thus gradually and almost imperceptibly rising about 
midway between Damascus Gate and Kubr es-Sultan, attains a 
height of more than a hundred feet at its greatest elevation about 
the point where the wall now crosses it, and gradually becomes 
lower and lower in absolute but not always in relative height, to its 
termination at the junction of the Tyropoeon and Kedron valleys. 
But though originally continuous its whole length, it is now entirely 
severed in one or two places — reduce.d in height at one point and 
enlarged in breadth at others, so that it by no means presents the 
same shape and appearance now that it did originally. Three or 
four hundred yards below the point crossed by the wall the ridge 
became quite narrow : and it was here cut down by Herod the Great 
to a level with the Temple area, at the time that he enlarged its 
premises and completed the fortification of Antonia. The scarp - 
ment thus left by the excision of a portion of the mountain formed 



118 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Quarry beneath Bezetha. Goath. 

the southern face of the Tower. The ridge of Bezetha, however, 
was not only thus cut away at that point, but a short distance above 
it was completely severed by a deep trench, and the sides also 
scarped — thus forming a solid tower of native rock. But the con- 
tinuity of the mountain was still more completely destroyed beyond 
the present city wall. The entire ridge has here been cut away 
nearly to a level with the surrounding ground for the space of about 
two hundred yards. This great hiatus was perhaps at first a mere nar- 
row trench designed for the security of the wall crossing the summit of 
the ridge ; but being an excellent quarry of building rock, all the 
rest of the hill occupying this wide gap has been removed for the 
construction of walls and edifices. In the southern extremity of 
the northern division of the hill thus severed there is a very large 
natural cave, where tradition reports that the prophet of Anathoth 
wrote his doleful " Lamentations" over the desolations of the Holy 
City ; and in the northern extremity of the southern portion I disco- 
vered a much larger one, partly natural, but mainly artificial — being 
evidently a quarry, from which immense quantities of stones have 
been cut for building purposes. Those extra-cyclopean stones in the 
south-east and south-west corners of the Temple wall were doubtless 
taken from this great quarry, and carried to their present position 
down the gently inclined plane on rollers — a conjecture which at 
once solves the mystery that has greatly puzzled travellers in rela- 
tion to the difficulty of transporting and handling such immense 
masses of rock, and enables us to understand why they were called 
"stones of rolling" by Ezra. 

Goath. — Between Bezetha Hill and the Kedron Valley, there is 
quite a prominent ridge, upon a portion of which the eastern wall 
of the city now stands. This hill must at one time have been very 
conspicuous, before the valley separating it from Bezetha became so 
much filled up. There is no mention of this hill in the works of 
Josephus or the Talmud, that I am aware of ; but the lower portion 
of it that terminates in the Kedron is unquestionably the Groath of 
the Scriptures. (Jer. xxxi. 39.) 



CHAPTER Y. 



THE CITY WALLS. 
" Mark ye well her bulwarks." 

WALLS FROM MELCHISEDEC TO ZEDEKIAH. 

Walls oe Salem. — In treating of the walls of Jerusalem chrono- 
logically, which is the plan best adapted to elucidate this intricate 
and obscure subject, the city of Melchisedec first claims attention. 
So little, however, is positively known or satisfactorily ascertainable 
in relation to this ancient city, that its metes and bounds, as laid 
down on the map, though evidently correct in the main, must yet be 
received with some grains of allowance, as to exactness of position. 
Its towering acropolis* — so long and tenaciously held by the Syri- 
ans, despite all the efforts of the whole city and nation, was no 
doubt well nigh impregnable ; but its walls on the north and the west 
being so disadvantageously situated on the slope of Akra, must have 
been quite assailable, though it is by no means improbable that Akra 
was divided by a ravine as Zion was ; and it must have been either 
through the northern or western one that the children of Judah 
effected an entrance and "took the city, and smote it with the edge 
of the sword and set it on fire." On the south side it was doubtless 
well secured by the lower portion of the Tyropoeon ravine that 
separated it from Mount Zion, and still more so on the east by the 
Gihon "Valley that divided it from Mount Moriah. It is probable 
in the highest degree that the east extremity of the north side was 

* It was this stronghold (called Akra in the Greek tongue) that no doubt gave name 
to that quarter of Jerusalem. 



120 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Site of Jebus. 

well defended by a large and deep reservoir, supplied by the waters 
of Gihon. 

Walls of Jebus. — The physical features of the north-east 
portion of Zion, where the city of the Jebusites was situated, are 
still so prominent and well defined as to render the location of the 
walls of this ancient stronghold a matter of much greater certainty 
than those of Salem. And besides those enduring records of nature, 
many facts are recorded in the Sacred Scriptures, the Apocrypha, 
and the works of Josephus, that concur to render their restoration, 
in great measure, a matter of certainty. It will be seen on refer- 
ence to the map, that though never heretofore observed, there was 
an admirable situation for it on quite an isolated protuberance of 
Mount Zion. The east side was very precipitous, and elevated up- 
wards of a hundred feet above the Tyropoeon. This valley was also 
quite a deep ravine where it bordered Jebusi on the north. Mount 
Zion declined so rapidly on the south border as to form a good 
defence in that direction ; and on the west there was another valley 
now nearly filled up ; but at the date of David's capture of the city 
was no doubt a very considerable depression, inasmuch as he found 
it necessary to fill it up before he could extend the dimensions of the 
city in that direction. This valley was no other than Millo — (in loe.) 
The present indications of a very steep declivity on its south-western 
quarter are not very obvious at this remote day, owing to the 
"heaps" upon heaps of rubbish, of which it has been so long the 
receptacle. But it is to be inferred from the circumstances recorded 
by the historian in relating the capture of the city by David, that 
the attack was made on the still deeply precipitous cliffs of the east ; 
which clearly indicates that the city was well fortified by nature as 
well as art everywhere else. It is probable that the cliffs support- 
ing the citadel were so high and perpendicular, that no additional 
wall was here deemed necessary, especially as the Jebusites seem 
have conducted the waters of Gihon into a kind of moat some dis- 
tance above its base, probably about the elevation at which the 
waters of Etham now flow in the present aqueduct. Josephus no 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 121 
Extension of Zion. 

doubt speaks with his accustomed accuracy when he declares (Ant. 
v. ii : 2) that « the Upper City (Jebus) was not to be taken without 
great difficulty through the strength of its walls, and the nature of 
the place" thus situated on the verge of precipices all around. 

Walls of Zion. — After capturing Jebus, David immediately 
selected Jerusalem — or rather the sites of Jebus and Salem, with 
their immediate environs — as the metropolis of his kingdom ; " and 
built the city round about, even from Millo round about ; and Joab 
repaired the rest of the city." (1 Chr. xi. 8.) This extension of 
its limits and buildings was most successfully continued under Solo- 
mon ; who not only " built Millo, and repaired the breaches of the 
City of David his father" (1 Kings xi. 27), and built the wall round 
about (1 Kings iii. 1), but also surrounded his " niagnifical" Temple 
with massive walls, which he connected with Zion by a stupendous 
bridge, and by a wall also across the Tyropoeon Valley. The " ivall 
round about" was, no doubt, the one commencing at the south-east 
corner of the original Jebus, in continuation of its east side, and 
coursing around Zion on the most suitable ledges of the impending 
rocks on the sides of the lower portion of the Tyropoeon and Hin- 
nom valleys, as far as the neighborhood of the present Yaffa Gate, 
whence it was carried in a straight descending course along the side 
of the upper part of the Tyropoeon to Millo, where it became continu- 
ous with the northern wall of Jebus. Or, did Solomon commence at 
the other end (the north-west), and construct the wall around the 
west and south of Zion, and the south and east of Ophel uniting it 
to the Temple ? If so, it gives new force and interest to the pas- 
sage informing us that " Manasseh built a wall on the west of 
Gihon, even to the entering of the Fish Gate." 

No further mention is made of the walls of Jerusalem until we 
learn that « Joash, the king of Israel, took Amaziah, king of Judah, 
the son of Joash, the son of Jehoahaz, at Beth-Shemesh, and brought 
him to Jerusalem, and brake down the wall of Jerusalem from the 
Gate of Ephraim to the corner gate, 400 cubits." (2 Chr. xxv. 25; 
2 Kings xiv. 13.) This breach was of course soon repaired ; and 



122 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Wall of Ophel. 

when his more enterprising son, Uzziah, ascended the throne, he 
"built towers in this neighborhood, at the corner gate, and at the 
valley gate, and at the turning of the wall, 150 cubits high, and 
fortified them" (2 Chr. xxvi. 9.) It is said of Jotham, the son of 
Uzziah, that " he built the High Gate of the House of the Lord, 
and on the wall of Ophel he built much" (2 Chr. xxvii. 3.) It is 
evident, however, that in the mean time the limits of the city had 
been considerably extended on the north and west of the " Lower 
City" — Salem — its original walls having also been removed. But 
by whom the wall was made that encompassed the north-west part 
of the city — commencing near the Jaffa Gate, and terminating at 
the Temple enclosure on the north, we have no means of ascertain- 
ing. The good Hezekiah was very zealous in repairing, fortifying, 
and beautifying the city of his fathers, and of his fathers' God ; but 
does not appear to have enlarged its borders. " He built up all the 
wall that was broken down and raised it up to the towers, and ano- 
ther wall without (by the side of that destroyed by Joash, probably, 
called by Nehemiah 'the broad wall,' which was certainly much 
needed), and repaired Millo in the City of David." (2 Chr. xxxii. 5.) 

Ophel Wall. — Manasseh, also, after his restoration to the throne 
of Jerusalem, greatly fortified its walls ; and considerably enlarged 
its borders on the south-east, unless indeed his work was mainly a 
reconstruction of Solomon's or Jotham's — for » he built a wall with- 
out the City of David, on the west side of Gihon, in the valley, 
even to the entering in at the Fish Gate ; and compassed about 
Ophel and raised it up a very great height." (2 Chr. xxxiii. 14.) 
The Gihon Valley wall here mentioned is undoubtedly that running 
between Siloam and the Fish Gate, being identical in part with the 
eastern wall of Jebus (for this valley was no doubt once called Gihon 
all the way down) ; but it is doubtful whether he alludes to the 
Tower or to the Hill of Ophel as being surrounded with a wall, or to 
both. But though it does not appear with certainty whether the 
wall of Ophel was first built by Solomon, Jotham, or Manasseh, cer- 
tain it is that the wall was at this time about three miles in circuit, 



JERUSALEM — AS IT "WAS. 123 
Nehemiah's examination of the wall. 

which was its utmost limit prior to the captivity ; though we have no 
further topographical particulars of the city till the reign of Heze- 
kiak, when the Lord brought upon Jerusalem Nebuchadnezzar, the 
king of the Chaldees * * and the city was broken up, and all the men 
of war fled by night by the way of the gate between two walls which 
is by the King's Garden * * * and they burnt the House of God, 
and brake down the wall of Jerusalem, and burnt all the palaces 
thereof with fire." (2 Kings xxv. 2, 4; 2 Chr. xxxvi. 17-21; Jer. 
xxxix. 2, 4.) 

WALLS FROM NEHEMIAH TO AGRIPPA. 

Nehemiah's nocturnal Reconnoissance of the Walls (Neh. ii. 13, 
15.) — Biblical expositors having no personal knowledge of the 
topography of Jerusalem, have all been most signally foiled in their 
attempts to locate the gates, towers, reservoirs, and other places 
mentioned by Nehemiah in describing his furtive examination of 
the walls, their reconstruction and their dedication ; and it must 
be confessed that the pious Tirshatha, designing rather to tell 
ivho were the builders than ivhere they labored and what they 
built, is not as explicit on these points as might be desired for the 
gratification of our curiosity. But though the subject has here- 
tofore been beset with difficulties deemed insuperable, nothing 
but an intimate acquaintance with the topography of the site 
is now necessary to a satisfactory solution of the most formi- 
dable of these difficulties, since the satisfactory identification of 
a few leading points. Nor is any formal disquisition necessary — a 
very few explanatory remarks merely incorporated with Nehemiah's 
topographic accounts of the walls (distinguished by Italics) amply 
sufficing for the complete demonstration of this zigzag problem, 
which has heretofore so completely baffled the efforts of Biblical 
topographers. The villages where the restorers resided being gene- 
rally mentioned, it will be seen that this circumstance affords a gene- 
ral indication of the part of the wall upon which they labored, — such 
places being on that side of the city nearest their place of abode. 



124 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Nehemiah's nocturnal reconnoissance. 

The only apparent exception being perhaps where they repaired 
more than one piece — having completed their first undertaking (if 
they worked any more), there being no more work to be done on the 
side next their residence, or having arrived after the repairs on that 
part of the city nearest them under operation were completed, they 
would, of course, go wherever their services would be required. It 
will be observed that the labor of the priests was confined either to 
the Temple itself, its immediate vicinity — or some other sacred 
locality. 

(Nehemiah ii. 13, 15.) — " And I went out by night by the gate 
of the valley, [near the Tower of Hippicus {Jaffa Gate)) even 
before the dragon well (i. e. fountain on the opposite side of the val- 
ley) and to the dung port, and viewed the walls of Jerusalem ; 
which were broken down, and the gates thereof were consumed with 
fire. Then [having passed the gate of the Essenes) I went to the 
gate of the fountain (Siloah) and (then turning around the point of 
Ophel came) to the kings' pool — but there was no place for the 
beast that was under me to pass (by the sides of this pool — Solomon s — 
there being water in the pool and too much rubbbish about it to permit 
the passage of the beast). Then went I up in the night by the brook 
(Kedron), and viewed the wall, and turned back, and entered by the 
gate of the valley, and so returned." 

The Reconstruction of the Walls, &c, (Neh. iii.) — "Then 
Eliashib, the high priest, rose up with his brethren, the priests, and 
they builded the sheep-gate, they sanctified it and set up the doors 
of it, even unto the tower of Meah — they sanctified it unto the 
tower of Hananeel (this portion having been but little injured). 
And next unto him builded the men of Jericho. And next to 
them builded Zaccur, the son of Imri. But the fish gate did the 
sons of Hassenaah build, who also laid the beams thereof, and 
set up the doors thereof, the locks thereof, and the bars thereof. 
And next unto them repaired Moremoth, the son of Urijah, 
the son of Koz. And next unto them repaired Meshullam, the 
son of Berechiah, the son of Meshezabeel. And next unto them 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



125 



Nehemiah's reconstruction of the wall. 

repaired Zadok, the son of Baana. And next unto them the Teko- 
ites repaired ; but their nobles put not their necks to the work of 
their Lord. Moreover (these having repaired the Grate of Benja- 
min) the old gate repaired Jehoiada, the son of Paseah, and 
Meshullam, the son of Besodeiah; they laid the beams thereof, 
and set up the door thereof, and the locks thereof, and the bars 
thereof ; and next unto them repaired Melatiah, the Gibeonite, and 
Jadon, the Meronothite, the men of Gibeon, and of Mizpah, 
unto the throne of the governor on this side of the river. Next 
unto him repaired Uzziel, the son of Harhaiah of the gold- 
smiths. Next unto him also repaired Hananiah the son of one of 
the apothecaries, and they fortified Jerusalem unto the broad wall" 
(or double wall, "from the Grate of Ephraim to the Corner Grate, 
four hundred cubits in length, formerly broken, down by Joash, 
king of Israel). And next unto them repaired Rephaiah, the son 
of Hur, the ruler of the half part of Jerusalem. And next unto 
them repaired Jedaiah, the son of Harumaph, even over against his 
house. And next unto him repaired Hattush, the son of Hashab- 
niah. Malchijah, the son of Harim, and Hashub, the son of Pahath- 
Moab repaired the other piece {beyond the first gate) and the tower 
of the furnaces. And next unto him repaired Shallum, the son of 
Halohesh, the ruler of the half-part of Jerusalem, he and his daugh- 
ters. The valley gate repaired Hanun and the inhabitants of 
Zanoah ; they built it, and set up the doors thereof, the locks 
thereof, and the bars thereof, and a thousand cubits on the wall 
(passing through a place called Bethzo), unto the dung gate. But 
the dung gate repaired Malchiah, the son of Rechab, the ruler of 
part of Beth-Haccerem ; he built it, and set up the doors, thereof, 
and the locks thereof, and the bars thereof. (Next the JEssenes 
Grate.) But the gate of the (" Siloam") fountain repaired Shal- 
lum, the son of Colhozeh, the ruler of part of Mizpah ; he built it, 
and covered it, and set up the doors thereof, the locks thereof, and 
the bars thereof, and the wall of the pool of* Siloah (below the 



* Wall of "shorn skins" — Septuagint. Another confirmation of the correctness of these 
locations. 



126 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



The Tirshatha's reconstruction. 

Fountain of Siloah) by the king's garden, and unto the stairs that 
go down from the city of David. After him repaired Nehemiah, 
the son of Azbuk, the ruler of the half part of Beth-zur, with the 
place over against the sepulchres of David, and to the pool that was 
made, and unto the house of the mighty (along the precipitous cliffs 
of Zion). After him repaired the Levites, Rehum, the son of Bani. 
Next unto him repaired Hashabiah, the ruler of the half part of 
Keilah, in his part. After him repaired their brethren, Bavai, the 
son of Henadad, the ruler of the half part of Keilah. And next 
to him repaired Ezer, the son of Jesuah, the ruler of Mizpah, 
another piece over against the going up to the armory, at the turn- 
ing of the wall (i. e. the wall across the Tyropoeon — being a continua- 
tion of the first wall — connecting Mount Zion with the Temple wall). 
After him Baruch, the son of Zabbai, earnestly repaired the other 
piece, from the turning of the wall (by the Armory) unto the door 
of the house of Eliashib, the high priest. After him repaired 
Meremoth, the son of Urijah, the son of Koz, another piece, from 
the door of the house of Eliashib, even to the end of the house of 
Eliashib. And after him repaired the priests, the men of the plain. 
After him repaired Benjamin and Hashub, over against their house. 
After him repaired Azariah, the son of Maasseiah, the son of Ana- 
niah, by his house. After him repaired Binnui, the son of Henadad, 
another piece, from the house of Azariah, unto the turning of the wall, 
even unto the corner (or junction of the "First and Second zvalls"). 

Palal, the son of Uzai, over against the turning of the wall (by 
the Armory) and the tower which lieth out from the king's high 
house (watch-tower by royal palace — in the fortification wall of the 
palace) that was by the court of the prison. After him Pedaiah, the 
son of Parosh. Moreover the Nethinims (who) dwelt in (the por- 
tion of Moriah called) Ophel, (commencing at Siloam fount, re- 
paired) unto the place over against the water gate toward the east, 
and the tower that lieth out. After them the Tekoites repaired 
another piece, over against the great tower that lieth out even unto 
the wall of Ophel (at the place Ophlas). From above the horse 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 127 
The Grand Dedication. 

gate repaired the priests, every one over against his house. After 
them {going northward around the. Temple) repaired Zadok, the son 
of Immer, over against his house. After him repaired also She- 
maiah, the son of Shechaniah, the keeper of the east gate {of the 
Temple, i. e. Shusan). After him repaired Hananiah, the son of 
Shelemiah, and Hanun the sixth son of Zalaph, another piece. 
After him repaired Meshullum, the son of Berechiah, over against 
his chamber. After him repaired Malchiah, the goldsmith's son, 
unto the place of the Nethinims {at the corner by the bridge) and 
of the merchants {in the Tabernce), over against the gate Miph- 
kad {at the other end of the bridge), and even to the going up of 
the {south-west) corner. And between the going up of the corner 
{along the south side of the Temple enclosure) unto the sheep gate, 
repaired the goldsmiths and the merchants." 

Dedication of the Walls — (Neh. xii. 31-40.) — {The assembly 
convened near Jaffa Gate ivhere the procession commences.) — 
" Then I brought up the princes of Judah upon the wall, {near the 
Valley Gate) and appointed two great companies of them that gave 
thanks, whereof one went on the right hand upon the wall toward 
the dung gate {through Bethzo.) And after them went Hoshaiah, 
and half of the princes of Judah. And Azariah, Ezra, and Mesh- 
ullam. Judah, and Benjamin, and Shemaiah, and Jeremiah. And 
certain of the priests' sons with trumpets ; namely, Zechariah the 
son of Jonathan, the son of Shemaiah, the son of Mattaniah, the 
son of Michaiah, the son of Zaccur, the son of Asaph. And his 
brethren, Shemaiah, and Azarael, Milalai, Gilalai, Maai, Nethaneel, 
and Judah, Hanani, with the musical instruments of David the man of 
God, and Ezra the scribe before them. And at the fountain gate, 
which was over against them, they {descended thj-ough the Toiver of 
Siloam on the interior and then reascending) went up by the stairs 
of the city of David, at the going up of the wall, above the house 
of David, even unto the water gate eastward {by the staircase of the 
rampart, having descended to dedicate the fountain structures.) And 
the other company of them that gave thanks went over against them. 



128 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



The Dedication. Further history of the walls. 

{both parties having started from the junction of the "First and Second 
walls") and I after them, and the half of the people upon the wall, 
from beyond the tower of the furnaces even unto the broad wall. 
[beyond the corner gate.) And from above the gate of Ephraim, and 
above the old gate (and the Gate of Benjamin), and above the fish 
gate, and the tower of Hananeel, and the tower of Meah, even 
unto the sheep gate : and they stood still in the prison gate (or 
High Gate at the east end of the bridge.) So stood the two compa- 
nies of them that gave thanks in the house of God, and I, and the 
half of the rulers with me" — (having thus performed the circuit of the 
investing wall). 

The reader, who will be at the pains critically to read the fore- 
going delineation of the walls — map in hand — cannot fail to be en- 
tirely satisfied of the general correctness of these locations — which 
tally so completely with the local features and natural condition of 
the places named. It is highly interesting thus to verify by actual 
examination those ancient records. Such an investigation cannot 
fail to afford strong confirmatory evidence of their truthfulness. 

WALLS OF JERUSALEM FROM THEIR RESTORATION BY NEHEMIAH TO 
THE CHRISTIAN ERA. 

After lying in ruins more than a century and a quarter while the 
Jews were in Babylonia, the walls of the Holy City were rebuilt by 
Nehemiah about four hundred and fifty years before the Christian 
era — the altar having been set up more than fourscore years pre- 
viously ; and the Temple rebuilt about sixty-five years before their re- 
edification. And various as were the fortunes of this ill-fated city of 
the Jews during the period intervening between its restoration under 
Nehemiah and the Christian era, under its various rulers — Persian, 
Egyptian, Syrian, Roman, and native, as well priestly as princely — 
a period of more than five centuries — no material expansion or con- 
traction of its boundaries occurred, though its walls were often 
demolished, and as often rebuilt. Jonathan Maccabeus "built a 
wall in the midst of the city in order to exclude the market place 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



History of the later walls. 



The "First Wall.' J 



129 



from the garrison (of Syrians) which was in the citadel (Akra). 
But we are not told where it was : a circumstance, however, but 
little to be regretted, inasmuch as it was doubtless removed as soon 
as Simon wrested this celebrated fortress from the Syrians and 
determined to destroy it. 

The walls demolished by Nebuchadnezzar and reedified by Nehe- 
miah, were no doubt identical in capacity as well as position with 
those of the city at the period of the Messiah's sojourn upon earth, 
with the exception of a slight alteration by Herod the Great in the 
neighborhood of Antonia ; and this perhaps w T as a mere enlargement 
of the area of the Temple at the expense of the city in that quarter. 
But about ten years after the ascension of the Saviour, King 
Agrippa the Elder projected and partially completed an immense 
wall on the north of the city, which, though the truckling king felt 
constrained to relinquish lest he should incur the displeasure of the 
Emperor Claudius, the Jews yet found means of completing, inde- 
pendently of royal favor. 

As there is some advantage in following the course pursued by 
Nehemiah and Josephus (our chief authorities), in starting at the 
point where the three grand divisions of Jerusalem come in juxta- 
position, this point of departure will be adopted in treating of the 
walls of the city, as they existed in the days of their investment 
by Titus. 

"The First or Old Wall"* — {enclosing Zion and OpheT). — 
Starting at the Tower of Hippicus, in the north-west corner of Zion, 
the wall ran eastward f along the northern brow of Zion just on the 



* There is no reason to believe that this 
ordinal classification of the walls was any- 
other than an arbitrary one, merely adopted 
for convenience in describing the siege ; for 
Josephus afterwards reverses the order — 
making the first third, and the third first — 
the second retaining its name alone from the 
force of circumstances. 

f Dr. Robinson well observes (Bib. Res. 



i. 411), that " the phrases pros dusin, pros 
not on, pros anatoleen, in this passage 
as applied to the wall, can only mean towards } 
or on the west, south, east, &c, equivalent to 
the western, southern, eastern wall. This is 
shown both by the nature of the case, and 
by the similar phrase te pros anatoleen, 
stoa ton hierou, in the same sentence, 
which no one ever thought of rendering 



130 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Location of the "First Wall." 

south brink of the Tyropoeon Valley, thirty cubits above the bottom 
of the ravine, and was united to the west colonnade of the Temple ; 
having crossed over the cleft of Zion (Millo), passed the Xystus, and 
united with the Council House or Sanhedrim at its junction with 
the Temple wall. Returning to the same point to locate the remain- 
der of the wall, we trace it thence through a place called Bethzo, 
along the verge of the Hinnom, occupying perhaps the site of the 
present wall as far as its south-west corner ; thence it doubtless ran 
a straight course to the English cemetery, though probably lower 
down than at present indicated, and thence — did we locate it to 
the best advantage — its course would be contracted considerably 
within the line indicated on the map : but the immense population 
of the city imperatively requires us to give the wall the utmost ex- 
tension compatible with the physical features of the ground, and 
the requirements of the descriptive narratives — having special 
regard to strength of position — for on this western and southern 
border of Zion the wall was deemed so impregnable that no enemy 
ever ventured to attack it. There are no reliable indications of the 
ancient foundations now visible, unless we may regard as such the 
scarped rock forming the north-eastern boundary of the English 
cemetery ; which, however, would restrict the limits of the city entirely 
too much, and render too acute the corner of the wall at Siloam to be 
justified either upon principles of civil economy or military policy. 
The wall could have been located advantageously almost anywhere 
upon the craggy precipices of this rocky hillside, due regard being 
had to the towering cliffs on the opposite side of Hinnom. The 
southern side — as also the western — was quite straight until Siloam 
was approached, when, instead of continuing directly forward to 
Solomon's Pool in the course naturally indicated by the locality at 
the mouth of the Tyropceon, it underwent a great deflection around 
the Pool of Siloam. This was accomplished by running northward 



otherwise than the eastern portico of the great confusion among commentators both 
Temple. Had this form of expression been as to the course of the wall and the position 
always so understood, it would have saved of Siloam." 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 131 
The " Second Wall." 

seventy or eighty yards, then eastward about half that distance, and 
back again southward seventy or eighty, to the point of Ophel — 
thus forming the two walls between which Zedekiah escaped (Jer. 
xxxix. 5). Around this point it underwent another deflection, and 
was carried along the brow and side of Ophel in a direction mainly 
facing the east, but evidently having somewhat of a southern aspect 
below the south-eastern angle of the Temple wall, in order to be 
conformed to the curvature of Ophel ; and was joined to the Temple 
wall on the east — no doubt at its farther extremity, in order not 
only to protect the Temple from profanation on that side, but for 
the purpose also of forming the cattle market. In order to com- 
plete the enclosure, so much of the Temple wall as lies between 
this point and the Council House — either including or excluding the 
Temple area — must also be regarded as a portion of the "First 
Wall." 

Josephus has rather strangely omitted all direct mention of a wall 
built by Manasseh, which was evidently in existence in his day, 
running from Siloam to the Xystus, and dividing Zion from Ophel ; 
but, as it was an inner wall that was never attacked by the Romans, 
there was no especial occasion for describing it in an account of the 
city designed mainly to illustrate its capture. This omission, how- 
ever, is amply supplied by Nehemiah, who sufficiently describes it 
(iii. 15-19). 

" Second Wall" {enclosing AJcra, in conjunction with part of the 
first wall and the Grihon Valley wall). — Of this wall Josephus 
merely informs us that it took its beginning from that gate which 
they call " Gennath, which belonged to the First Wall: it only en- 
compassed the northern quarter of the old city, and reached as far 
as the Tower of Antonia." 

The present traditionary Pool of Hezekiah being recognised as 
the Amygdalon of Josephus, the position of Gennath Gate, though 
so long and angrily controverted, is very easily and satisfactorily 
established. We learn from the great Jewish historian that the 
celebrated tenth legion of the Roman army, together with the fif- 



132 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Ancient tower. 

teenth, raised mounds at that portion of the Second Wall opposite 
Amygdalon, thirty cubits distant. This wall, therefore, ran within 
about fifteen yards of this pool ; and of course the Gate of Gennath 
was situated about that distance above the point of the old First Wall 
that would be cut by an extension of the west wall of the Amygda- 
lon Pool. 




REMAINS AT DAMASCUS GATE — ANCIENT TOWER ROOM. 



Remains at Damascus Gate. — The very ancient, massive, and cha- 
racteristically Jewish remains found in the two. towers on each side of 
Damascus Gate, indisputably indicate that spot as a portion of the 
"Second Wall." The resemblance between the architecture of the 
outer Temple wall (which was undoubtedly built either by Solomon or 
his immediate successors) and the lower portions of the Damascus Gate 
towers (and also of the wall for some distance on each side), is so very 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



133 



Winding stairway of tower. 

striking, that it cannot fail to arrest the attention of the most superfi- 
cial observer, and produce the conviction that they are the works of the 
same age and of one common system. The Gate of Damascus, without 
doubt, is identical with the " Old Gate" of Nehemiah ; and, in the ac- 
companying representation of the lower room on the east of the gate, 
the reader has before him the best specimen of ancient Jewish mural 
structure that the battering-ram and tooth of time have spared to us. 

The upper portion of the masonry, it is obvious, is of modern 
and inferior workmanship. The slab in the foreground of the pic- 
ture belongs to the winding stairway commencing on the left, lead- 
ing to the top of the tower and wall, the step-rocks of which are 
about seven feet in length and three feet in breadth. This stairway 
is not contained in a circular tube, as in modern buildings ; but is 
square-shaped, as represented in the annexed ground plan of the 
tower-room, in which the three lowermost steps are represented. It 
was also, in all probability, this kind of ascent by which " they went 
up with winding stairs into the middle chamber, and out of the mid- 
dle into the third" — situated in the southern wing of the Porch of 
the Temple. (1 Kings vi. 8.) 




GROUND PLAN OP ROOM AND WINDING STAIRWAY IN TOWER AT DAMASCUS GATE. 



134 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



The "Third Wall"— Agrippa's. 

So disadvantageous would be a line drawn directly from these 
towers to Antonia for a defensive wall, and so very advantageous a 
location the top of that portion of Bezetha Hill extending between 
the Seraglio and the section through the hill, that the wall must 
either have rested on this crest or on the slope just beyond it east- 
wardly, and upon the site now occupied by the wall thence to 
Damascus Gate. Such considerable remains of an ancient wall are 
still to be seen where the present northern wall near its western ter- 
mination makes the greatest southern declination, that they can but 
be regarded as a portion of the old second wall. But for these 
remains, however, the wall would have been located, on the plan, 
with a more graceful curve at that point, in accordance with the 
intimations of the word used by Josephus in describing this wall. 

" Third Wall" — (enclosing Coenopolis, Bezetha, or the New 
City.) — This wall began at the Hippie Tower and ran to Psephinos : 
thence extending over against Helena's Monuments, it reached a 
great length ; passing through the royal sepulchral caverns, and 
bending at the corner tower and Fuller's Monument, joined the old 
wall at the Cedron — which is summarily expressed by Jeremiah 
(xxxi. 39) in these words : « The measuring line shall yet go forth 
over against it (the city) upon the hill Gareb, and shall compass 
about to Goath." This wall (as seen on the map) was laid down 
from repeated examinations of its site, just as it is believed King 
Agrippa's engineer would have located it, had he been instructed to 
select the best site for the erection of a wall designed to include a 
large area within a wall most eligibly situated. And it is found to 
quadrate as well with recorded facts, circumstances, and indications, 
as with the configuration of the ground. A slight examination of 
the map will obviate the necessity of a long verbal account ; and 
perhaps subserve a better purpose. A wall of much smaller circuit 
than this must not only have been located to great disadvantage, 
but the city thus restricted would have been totally inadequate to the 
accommodation of its teeming population. The northern wall was 
three stadia south of Helena's Monument. If then, this tomb was 



JERUSALEM 



— AS IT WAS. 



185 



Circumference of the city. 

identical with " The Tombs of the Kings," which is only 520 yards 
from Damascus Gate (on the line of the old " Second Wall"), the 
" Third Wall" must have been within 214 yards, or only a little more 
than one stadium from the " Second" ! ! ! The rocks supposed by Dr. 
Robinson to belong to the foundation of the " Third" wall are only 
2 stadia from the " Second" wall, and most disadvantageously situ- 
ated for a wall. The stones of the Third Wall were 20 cubits long 
and 10 broad ; whereas these are not one-fourth that size. But the 
entire absence of all sepulchres between Kubr Moluk and the city 
is decisive upon this point ; and has an important bearing in relation 
to the position of Helena's tomb. Except by implication, in de- 
scribing the capture of the Temple, Josephus makes no allusion to 
the Gihon Valley wall, which is described (2 Chr. xxxiii. 14) as run- 
ning along the west side of the valley, even to the Fish Gate. 

If success has attended the attempt thus to locate the walls 
according to the nature of the ground and the various requirements 
of all the circumstances of the case, the location of the gates and 
towers will be easily accomplished without any clashing between 
Josephus, Nehemiah, and others. Josephus states that " the whole 
compass of the city was thirty-three furlongs," which exactly cor- 
responds with my restoration — provided measurement be made 
between the main outer leading points, without taking the recesses 
into account, which undoubtedly was the plan pursued in making his 
estimate. In proof of which it need only be remarked, that were 
all the towers located (according to the data he furnishes) in a regu- 
lar line, instead of the zigzag projections and indentations described 
by Tacitus, the circumference of the city would be considerably 
more than double the extent assigned it by Josephus. In speaking 
of Jerusalem, Tacitus remarks — " Walls constructed with skill. In 
some places projecting forward : in others retiring inwardly, with 
the angles so formed that the besiegers were always liable to be 
annoyed in flank. The extremities of the rock were sharp, abrupt, 
and craggy. In convenient places near the top, towers were raised 
sixty feet high, and others on the declivity of the sides, one hundred 



136 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Difficulty in relation to the Towers. 

and twenty feet."* That the subject may be the better understood, 
the towers and gates will come under consideration in the regular 
order of their position — whether mentioned by Josephus, Nehemiah, 
or other writers. A few words of explanation, however, in relation 
to the number and arrangements of the towers, are demanded first. 
The hundred and ninety towers assigned to the walls by Josephus, 
would seem to be exclusive of those around that portion of the 
Temple called Antonia, as well as those on the Gihon Yalley wall, 
and the wall between Ophel and Zion, which in the aggregate form 
a greater length of fortification than the whole second wall. The 
supposition, however, that these one hundred and ninety towers are 
to be distributed amongst all the walls, greatly relieves the difficulty 
which has heretofore so distressingly puzzled the " restorers of Jeru- 
salem's paths." For it will be observed that the data given by Jo- 
sephus, involve quite a serious dilemma. Deducting the forty 
towers of the second wall (for it is obvious that this wall formed no 
portion of the circumference of Jerusalem at that time), there 
remain one hundred and fifty in the outer wall : multiplying this 
number therefore by two hundred, the number of cubits they were 
separated (i. e. from centre to centre), we have thirty thousand 
cubits, or about seventy-four stadia — more than twice the alleged 
compass of the city ! ! And the difficulty is still increased if we 
allow a clear interval of two hundred cubits between each tower, 
instead of reckoning from the centre of one to the centre of the 
other ! Such is the dilemma in relation to the wall, allowing the 
intervals of the towers to be correctly stated : nor is the dilemma 
into which the towers are thrown — allowing the extent of the wall 
to be correctly stated — less harassing. For, dividing thirty-three 
stadia, its alleged extent, by two hundred cubits, we have only sixty- 
six towers ; not half the requisite number. But serious as the diffi- 
culty appears, it is susceptible of satisfactory explanation, when we 

* Muri per artem obliqui, aut introrsus turres, ubi mons juvisset, in sexaginta pedes : 
sinuati, ut latera oppugnantium ad ictus inter deveca, in centenos vincenosque attolle- 
patescerent. Extrema rupis, abrupta et bantur. 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 137 
Site of the city described by Josepbus. 

take into consideration the serrated nature of the walls as described 
by Tacitus, and extend the second wall, as may be fairly done by 
the addition of the Gihon Valley wall, which indeed is necessary to 
effect its completion and junction with the first wall ; and regard as 
a continuation of the third wall so much of the Antonia wall as inter- 
venes between the tower of Antonia and the point of junction 
between it and the first wall on the eastern declivity of Moriah. 
The wall dividing Zion and Ophel cannot with propriety be con- 
sidered as a portion of either the first, second, or third wall of 
Josephus ; though it is undoubtedly a part of the first wall described 
by Nehemiah. But there is no occasion so to regard it, in order to 
reconcile the above discrepancy — the considerations already adduced 
being amply sufficient. And besides all this, it is not at all impro- 
bable that instead of "cubits," the word in the original was feet; 
as he sometimes makes use of both measures in his descriptions of 
places : a suggestion that derives some plausibility from the con- 
sideration that towers two hundred feet apart would not only be 
much more conducive to security, but also more in consonance with 
the practice of that age of the world — many walls having towers 
only one hundred and fifty feet apart. Before attempting the hypo- 
pothetical restoration of the walls of Jerusalem, it will be well also 
to bestow some attention on his account of the site of the city — 
which is accordingly here inserted for the benefit of the general 
reader. 

" The city of Jerusalem was fortified with three walls, on such 
parts as were not encompassed with impassable valleys ; for in such 
places it had but one wall. The city was built upon two hills which 
are opposite to one another, and have a valley to divide them 
asunder ; at which valley the corresponding rows of houses on 
both hills end. Of these hills, that which contains the upper city 
is much higher and in length more direct. Accordingly, it was 
called the "Citadel" by King David; he was the father of that 
Solomon who built this Temple at the first ; but it is by us called 
the 'Upper Market Place.' But the other hill, which was called 



138 



CITY OP THE GREAT KING. 



Course of the walls. 

Akra, and sustains the lower city, is of the shape of the moon when 
she is gibbous ; over against this was a third hill, but naturally lower 
than Akra, and parted formerly from the other by a broad valley. 
However, in those times when the Asmoneans reigned they filled 
up that valley with earth, and had a mind to join the city to the 
Temple. They then took off part of the height of Akra, and re- 
duced it to be of less elevation than it was before, that the Temple 
might be superior to it. Now, the Valley of the Cheesemongers, as 
it was called, and was that which we told you distinguished the hill 
of the upper city from that of the lower, extended as far as Siloam ; 
for that is the name of a fountain which hath sweet water in it, and 
this in great plenty also. But on the outsides these hills are sur- 
rounded by deep valleys, and, by reason of the precipices to them 
belonging on both sides, they are everywhere impassable. 

" Now, of these three walls, the old one was hard to be taken, both 
by reason of the valleys, and of that hill on which it was built and 
which was above them. But besides that great advantage as to the 
place where they were situated, it was also built very strong ; because 
David and Solomon and the following kings were very zealous about 
this work. Now that wall began on the north at the tower called 
'Hippicus,' and extended as far as the 'Xystus,' a place so called, 
and there joining to the Council House, ended at the west cloister of 
the Temple. But if we go the other way westward, it began at the 
same place, and extended through a place called 6 Bethso' to the 
Gate of the Essenes, and after that it went southward, having its 
bending above the fountain Siloam, where it also bends again towards 
the east at Solomon's Pool, and reaches as far as a certain place 
which they called < Ophlas,' where it was joined to the eastern 
cloister of the Temple." 

" The second wall took its beginning from that gate which they 
called < Gennath,' which belonged to the first wall; it only encom- 
passed the northern quarter of the city and reached as far as the 
Tower Antonia. The beginning of the third wall was as far as the 
Tower Hippicus, whence it reached as far as the north quarter of 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



139 



Position of walls, towers, <fcc. 

the city and the Tower Psephinos, and then was extended till it 
came over against the monuments of Helena, which Helena was 
queen of Adiabene, the daughter of Izates : it then extended fur- 
ther to a great length and passed by the sepulchral caverns of the 
kings, and bent again at the tower of the corner, at the monument 
which is called 'the Monument of the Fuller,' and joined to the 
old wall at the valley called the 'Valley Cedron.' It was Agrippa 
who encompassed the parts added to the old city with this wall, 
which had been all naked before ; for as the city grew more populous 
it gradually crept beyond its old limits, and those parts of it which 
stood northward of the Temple and joined that hill to the city, 
made it considerably larger, and occasioned that hill which is in 
number the fourth, and is called 'Bezetha,' to be inhabited also. 
It is over against the Tower Antonia, but is divided from it by a 
deep valley which was dug on purpose, and that in order to hinder 
the foundations of the Tower of Antonia from joining to this hill, 
and thereby affording an opportunity for getting to it with ease, and 
hindering the security that arose from its superior elevation ; for 
which reason also that depth of the ditch made the elevation of the 
towers more remarkable. This new built part of the city was called 
'Bezetha' in our language, which, if interpreted in the Grecian 
language, may be called the 'New City.' Since, therefore, its 
inhabitants stood in need of a covering, the father of the present 
king, and of the same name with him, Agrippa, began that wall we 
spoke of; but he left off building it when he had only laid the 
foundation, out of the fear he was in of Claudius Caesar lest he 
should suspect that so strong a wall was built in order to make some 
innovation in public affairs ; for the city could no way have been 
taken if that wall had been finished in the manner it was begun ; as 
its parts were connected together by stones twenty cubits long and 
ten cubits broad, which could never have been either easily under- 
mined by any iron tools or shaken by any engines. The wall was, 
however, ten cubits wide, and it would probably have had a height 
greater than that, had not his zeal who began it been hindered from 



140 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Towers. Wall of Circumvallation. 

exerting itself. After this it was erected with great diligence by 
the Jews as high as twenty cubits, above which it had battlements 
of two cubits, and turrets of three cubits altitude, insomuch that 
the entire altitude extended as far as twenty-five cubits." (W. v. 
iv: 1,2). 

Having thus briefly described the various quarters of the city, he 
speaks of the walls and fortifications as follows : — " Now the towers 
that were upon it were twenty cubits in breadth and twenty cubits 
in height ; they were square and solid, as was the wall itself, 
wherein the niceness of the joints and the beauty of the stones were 
no way inferior to those of the Holy House itself. Above this solid 
altitude of the towers, which was twenty cubits, there were rooms 
of great magnificence ; and over them upper rooms and cisterns to 
receive rain-water. They were many in number, and the steps by 
which you ascended up to them were every one broad; of these 
towers, then, the third wall had ninety, and the spaces between 
them were each two hundred cubits ; but in the middle wall were 
forty* towers, and the old wall was parted into sixty, while the whole 
compass of the city was thirty-three furlongs." 

The Trench, or Wall of Circumvallation. — Titus, provoked 
by the stubborn resistance of the Jews, who not only pertinaciously 
rejected all his overtures of mercy, but studiously defied and insulted 
him, decided at last, in a council of war, to encircle the whole city 
with an intrenchment, not only to prevent their escape, but cut off 
all supplies, and enhance his renown by a speedy capture of the 
city. This infatuated people had now filled up the measure of their 
sins ; and the time had at length arrived when they were fearfully 
to realize the literal fulfilment of the awful doom denounced against 
them by the Son of Man thirty years before, as, weeping, he gazed 
upon the devoted city from the heights of Olivet ; " Saying, If thou 
hadst known, even thou, at least in this thy day, the things that 



* In the only copy I have had an opportu- number of towers in the second wall is set 
nity of consulting in the original — that down at fourteen — TEaaapecrxaidsKa — instead of 
according to Havercamp and Hudson — the forty — and in the Latin version it is XIV also. 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



141 



Location of the Trench or Wall of Circumvallation. 

belong unto thy peace ! but now they are hid from thine eyes. For 
the days shall come upon thee, that thine enemies shall cast a trench 
about thee, and compass thee round, and keep thee in on every 
side, and shall lay thee even -with the ground, and thy children 
within thee ; and they shall not leave in thee one stone upon ano- 
ther : because thou knewest not the time of thy visitation." (Luke 
xix. 42-44.) 

All we know about the location and structure of this extensive 
rampart, we learn from the account given us by Josephus in the 1st 
and 2d sections of the 12th chapter of his 5th book of the Wars of 
the Jews — the descriptive portion of which is here inserted : — « Titus 
began the wall from the "camp of the Assyrians," where his own 
camp was pitched, and drew it down to the lower parts of Ccenopolis ; 
thence it went along the Valley of Cedron to the Mount of Olives : 
it then bent towards the south, and encompassed the mountain as 
far as the rock called Peristereon, and that other hill which lies 
next it, and is over the valley which reaches to Siloam : whence it 
bended again to the west, and went down to the Valley of the Foun- 
tain, beyond which it went up again at the Monument of Ananus 
the high priest, and, encompassing that mountain where Pompey 
had formerly pitched his camp, it returned back to the north side 
of the city, and was carried on as far as a certain village called 
< The House of the Erebinthi;' after which it encompassed Herod's 
Monument, and there on the east was joined to Titus's own camp 
where it began. Now the length of this wall was forty furlongs, 
one only abated. Now on this wall without were erected thirteen 
places to keep garrisons in, the circumference of which put together 
amounted to ten furlongs : the whole was completed in three days ; 
so that what would naturally have required some months, was done 
in so short an interval as is incredible. When Titus had therefore 
encompassed the city with this wall, and put garrisons in proper 
places, he went round the wall at the first watch of the night, and 
observed how the guard was kept ; the second watch he allotted to 
Alexander ; the commanders of legions took the third watch. They 



142 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



The " Trench" located. 

also cast lots among themselves who should be upon the watch in 
the night-time, and who should go all night long round the spaces 
that were interposed between the garrisons." 

Topographers have differed widely in their location of this trench — 
as well they might, without an intimate acquaintance with the envi- 
rons of Jerusalem. To mark out on paper a line of intrenchment 
thirty-nine stadia in length, is indeed such a very easy matter that 
it may be effected in the study, to the entire satisfaction of the de- 
signer and the general reader ; but to adapt it to the actual state of 
the localities and all the requirements and conditions of the case, is 
quite a different thing, and can only be accomplished by oft-repeated 
personal examination of the ground. Such a critical inspection 
alone can solve the problem — which must puzzle every careful 
reader of Josephus — how it was possible, even with all the disposable 
force of the Boman army, to construct such a fortification in the 
brief space of three days, by exposing to view the great extent of 
ground along the general direction indicated that was already suffi- 
ciently fortified by nature. So extensive indeed are the cliffs and 
projecting ledges of rock on the naturally terraced slopes of the 
"mountains round about Jerusalem," along that line, that to con- 
nect them by raising a wall and digging a trench in the intermediate 
space, not thus fortified by the hand of nature, was a work that 
could easily be accomplished in three days. The circumvallation 
through Coenopolis could very speedily be effected by reserving 
certain rows of houses and filling them with the stones of the neigh- 
boring houses, blocking up the openings left by cross streets, and 
thus constructing a continuous wall. The position occupied by the 
Assyrian camp — whence the wall of circumvallation started — is a 
subject that has been much controverted; but if pitched upon the 
most eligible location, according to the principles of ancient castra- 
metation, it would undoubtedly be placed upon the broad ridge or 
expansion north-west of the city, whence, too, it would not only en- 
tirely quadrate with the other points, but also best derive a supply 
of water — a very material consideration, certainly. In its course 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 143 
Site of the Trench and Garrisons. 

hence down to "the lower "parts of Oomopolis" on the western side 
of Kedron, it would no doubt embrace in its track that rocky knoll, 
about three hundred yards north-west of Damascus Gate, as a natural 
fortress for a garrison ; and also take advantage of the precipitous 
southern face of Turbet es-Zahara as a portion of its line of defence, 
whose summit would also form an excellent site for another garrison. 
Thence to Mount Olivet, the map exhibits it located to the best 
advantage, according to the configuration of the ground and rocks. 
The summit of Olivet, where the tenth legion had first encamped 
just in front of the ruins of Viri Galilsei, would doubtless be too 
distant to fall within the line of operations ; and, besides, the ledges 
of rock far below it are so much more easily fortified than the 
smooth rockless surface above, that the rampart would no doubt be 
constructed there. It next passed by the Peristereon, which the 
Rabbins affirm was a building for the sale of doves, but it is gene- 
rally supposed to have been a place fancifully so called from a 
remote resemblance to a dove-cote. The present village of Silwan 
is beyond doubt the true representative of Peristereon, and not the 
tombs of the prophets, as contended by some. The rock cliff thus 
styled may not improbably have been so called on account of its 
fancied resemblance to a dove-cote (the literal meaning of the term), 
the numerous doorways to the sepulchres with which it was pierced 
giving it that appearance. The term "rock" is here used by the 
historian as the equivalent of "another hill," and therefore implies 
far too large a mass to be mistaken for the small projecting rock at 
the tombs of the prophets, or any others whatever on Mount Olivet 
except this. 

" The Other Hill" alluded to is, of course, the contiguous one 
just south of Peristereon, overhanging the Kedron Valley at Siloam. 
Both of these hills were, no doubt, well garrisoned. In looking 
down into the bottom of the reputed Aceldama, we see all that now 
remains of the Monument of Ananus or Ananias — according to 
the very plausible conjecture of Dr. Schultz. The mountain 
ivhere Pompey had formerly pitched his camp can well be no 



144 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Herod's Monuments. Population of the city. 

other than the Hill of Evil Council, on whose mount a garrison was 
certainly placed. The House of Erebinthus, or Chick-pea village, 
is located somewhat conjecturally at a very fitting place ; but if not 
occupying the precise spot, it certainly cannot be much misplaced. 
The wall of circumvallation, if located to best advantage, must needs 
pass by the camp occupied by Titus opposite Hippicus (the present 
Greek convent of St. George), and, of course, this valuable station 
would be well garrisoned. 

Herod's Monument may either have been situated immediately 
beside the pool on its western extremity, or upon a slight eminence 
(Charnel House of the Lion), west of the so called Upper Pool of 
Gihon, whence, in all probability, the wall of circumvallation ran 
directly east to the camp of Titus, where it commenced. The 
entire circuit of intrenchment thus indicated on the map is just 
about thirty-nine stadia in extent, and seems to fulfil all the condi- 
tions of the case. 

Population of the City at the time of its Subversion. — It 
would seem from the statements of Josephus, that about 2,000,000 
Jews either perished or were captured during the siege of Jeru- 
salem ; and on account of this supposed exaggerated estimate of the 
population of the city, the great historian has been attacked most 
virulently. But it seems to be forgotten that he by no means 
assigns this as the regular population of the city; but expressly 
includes in this number the multitudes that came up to the Feast of 
Unleavened Bread, and were enclosed within its walls, when the 
threatened day of national retribution came upon them unawares — 
for as a snare the Roman army spread its meshes, and came upon 
them that dwelt upon all the face of the land. (Luke xxi. 34, 35.) 
The number in attendance at the passover, as officially reported on 
a former occasion, was more than 2,500,000, and at another time 
3,000,000. The regular and constant population of the city, about 
three centuries before Christ, was computed at only 120,000 by 
Hecateus, according to Eusebius. But after its enlargement by 
Agrippa, Tacitus computes it at 600,000. Now, if it be borne in 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 145 
Difficulty on the score of population. 

mind that every householder was expected to entertain many guests 
at least three times a year, and that their tenements were probably 
built in special reference to such accommodation of those that came 
up to the festivals, there will be no great difficulty in believing that 
this immense crowd could be temporarily lodged, if n'ot comfortably 
and permanently accommodated. It is true that the area of the 
city, even according to the extended limits that I assign it, would 
by no means be adequate to their comfortable accommodation, if 
we suppose them all to be stowed away on the ground floor ; but 
why need we restrict their lodgment to one or two, or even three 
stories ? The area of the city under its greatest extension did not 
contain more than 2,500,000 square yards of surface ; which, de- 
ducting the space occupied by walls, would allow but little more 
than nine square feet for each person — rather close packing, it is 
true ; but if distributed through several stories, would be very tole- 
rable during a festival week, when so much of the time would be 
spent on foot. There are many houses on Mount Zion at this time 
as much crowded as Josephus has represented them during the 
siege ; and any one who has spent a night in the Church of the Holy 
Sepulchre during the Easter festivities, has seen them packed away 
at the rate of eight or nine feet to the individual, or less, for twenty- 
four hours successively — eating, sleeping, worshipping, carous- 
ing, &c. 

The polished Occidental, with his refined views and feelings, can 
form no adequate idea of the unceremonious way in which the Ori- 
entals live, in consequence of their disregard of the refinements, 
conventional arrangements, and comforts of civilized society in other 
more enlightened parts of the world. It is alleged by some very 
credible writers, that the great inequality of surface in the city 
would sufficiently account for this teeming population. It is con- 
tended on the other hand, however, that the accommodations would 
not thereby be increased, inasmuch as no more houses can be built 
in a city intersected with hills and valleys than if it were a plain 
surface. But, while it is literally true that no more houses could be 
10 



146 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Dense population. 

constructed in the one case than in the other, yet it must be ad- 
mitted, that a city on hillsides can be made to contain more inhabit- 
ants than if its site were a plain ; for in the former case, regular 
ground streets may be dispensed with almost entirely— the tops of 
each range of lower houses serving as a street in front of the houses 
above, as in the case of Safet, and many other towns in Palestine, 
at the present day. The increased ventilation and light thus en- 
joyed would also render it much more agreeable and healthy. 

It will be remembered by the Bible reader that the Passover — the 
feast upon which the Jews were attending when shut up by Titus — 
was one of the great assemblies of the nation, at which every male 
in Israel was enjoined to be in attendance, and for the entertain- 
ment of these hosts of Israel, the house-tops, courts, and all other 
available spaces, were tented, and put in requisition. Nor must it 
be forgotten that " Jerusalem was builded as a city that is com- 
pacted together." All things being fairly considered, there Would 
appear, therefore, no just grounds for the charge of exaggeration 
brought against Josephus, in reference to his statement of the 
numbers besieged in Jerusalem. 



CHAPTER VI. 



TOWERS, GATES, ETC. 
u Tell the towers thereof" — " Go through — go through the gates." 

Most of these structures having been already satisfactorily 
located in considering the account given by Nehemiah, the task of 
locating the remainder mentioned by Josephus and others is greatly 
facilitated. Some have been already sufficiently described, -while a 
full account of others will be reserved for a more appropriate place. 

Hippicus. — In walking about Zion and going round about her, to 
"mark her bulwarks, tell her towers, and consider her palaces," we 
commence, like Josephus and Nehemiah, at the Tower of Hippicus ; 
which is not only in a better state of preservation than any of the 
rest, but is at once the most celebrated in history and the most im- 
portant in topography. And, though the position of this renowned 
tower has been much disputed, there can be no reasonable doubt 
but that the largest of the towers in the present City Castle, near 
the Jaffa Gate, generally styled the "Tower of David," is (in part 
at least) the far-famed Hippie Tower. Time and the elements — 
and the still greater destroyer, man — have shorn it of half its height 
— the ancient portion now remaining being only about forty feet 
high — which being entirely solid, without the least vacuity, has bid 
defiance alike to battering-ram, cannon-balls, prying curiosity, and 
the elements, for nineteen long centuries. But though it answers 
so well in many respects to the description given by Josephus, yet 
its dimensions (fifty- six by seventy feet) are considerably greatei 



148 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Tower of Hippicus. 

than those of Josephus — twenty-five cubits square — which, reduced 
to feet by the ordinary metrical standard, would be about thirty- 
eight by thirty-eight ; but it must be remembered that absolute 
accuracy is scarcely to be expected under the circumstances amidst 
which Josephus wrote his work — for it is very probable that in many 
unimportant matters he depended entirely upon his recollection. 
The stones composing it are scarcely half as large as those of the 
Temple wall ; and though they are rebated in the characteristic style 
of Jewish architecture, yet their faces are not reduced to a plain 
smooth surface, like those in the Temple and city wall, but are very 
protuberant and rough. The additional height of fifteen or twenty 
feet is constructed of much smaller stones, and is no doubt the work 
of the Crusaders. Josephus, in giving an account of the structures 
of King Herod, after describing the Psephine Tower, thus speaks 
of this structure : — " Over against it was the Tower Hippicus ; and 
hard by, two others were erected by King Herod in the old wall. 
These were, for largeness, beauty, and strength, beyond all that 
were in the habitable earth ; for, besides the magnanimity of his 
nature, and his magnificence towards the city on other occasions, 
he built these after such an extraordinary manner, to gratify his 
own private affections, and dedicated these towers to the memory 
of those three persons who had been dearest to him, and from whom 
he named them. They were his brother, his friend, and his wife. 
The wife he had slain out of his love (and jealousy), as we have 
already related ; the other two he lost in war as they were cou- 
rageously fighting. Hippicus — so named from his friend — was 
square ; its length and breadth were each twenty-five cubits, and 
its height thirty, and it had no vacuity in it. Over this solid build- 
ing, which was composed of great stones united together, there was 
a reservoir twenty cubits deep, over which there was a house of two 
stories, whose height was twenty-five cubits, and divided into several 
parts ; over which were battlements of two cubits, and turrets all 
around of three cubits high, insomuch that the entire height added 
together amounted to fourscore cubits." (W. v. iv : 8.) This 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 149 
Valley Gate. Dragon's Well. Gate of Essenes. Tower of Siloam, &c. 

fortress is sometimes, but without the least propriety, called the 
"Tower of David" — for that structure, mention of which is made 
in that inimitable Song of Songs (Canticles iv. 4), is undoubtedly the 
Armory on the opposite side of Zion. 

The Valley Gate — where Nehemiah commenced his nocturnal 
exploration. There is scarcely a valley about the Holy City in 
which this gate has not been located by different topographers, and 
made to quadrate with their peculiar theories ; yet most evident is 
it that it occupied a position between the Tower of Furnaces and 
the Esquiline Gate, a thousand cubits north of the latter — some- 
where quite near the present Jaffa Gate ; but may have been sub- 
sequently absorbed in the fortifications of the Tower of Hippicus. 
(2 Chr. xxvi. 9 ; Neh. ii. 13, 15, and iii. 13.) 

The Dragon's Well or Fountain was probably situated on the 
opposite side of the Hinnom. (See article on Waters of Jerusalem.) 
(Neh. ii. 13, and iii. 13.) 

Dung Gate. — At the distance of one thousand cubits south of 
Hippicus, was the Dung Port of Nehemiah, overhanging Hinnom ; 
and between Herod's Palace and this gate was Bethzo, a place of 
which we know nothing further than its mere name, which seems to 
be indicative of its esquiline character. (W. v. iv : 2.) 

Gate of the Essenes. — Next in order came the gate of this 
ancient sect, which I locate at a slight depression in the Hill of Zion, 
where the present road from Neby Daoud enters Hinnom. The Es- 
quiline Gate must have been very inaccessible, as well as otherwise 
inappropriately situated just over the large Pool es-Sultan, unless 
approached by a mere foot-path ; but Zion was very accessible from 
this gate. There is no other portal mentioned between this and the 
" Gate of the Fountain," unless the East or Sun Gate may have been 
situated there ; nor is there any special occasion for any — there 
being no spot where Zion could be ascended in all this quarter — 
except near the fountain. (W. v. iv : 2.) 

The Tower of Siloam, of which mention is made in Luke xiii. 4, 
was probably situated near the south-west corner of the lower Pool 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Sun Gate. Stairway. Intermediate Gate. House of David. 

of Siloam, at the south-east point of Zion, just at the " Tree of 
Isaiah;" and if the Jews were in the habit of lounging about that 
delightful spot as the Arabs now are, no surprise is to be felt at the 
number crushed to death — " those eighteen on whom the tower fell 
and slew them." 

The East Gate or Sun Gate was either the Gate of the Foun- 
tain leading from Zion directly to the lower Pool of Siloam (Skin 
Pool, now a garden and figyard), facing the east ; or it gave exit 
directly from Zion to Hinnom or Tophet, where the brazen idol of 
Moloch or Baal was worshipped — from which fact, perhaps, it was 
called Sun Gate after Baal, as the Temple of Baal at Balbec is 
also called Heliopolis or Temple of the Sun. (Jer. xix. 2.) The 
East Gate, mentioned Neh. iii. 29, and 1 Chr. xxvi. 14, is the Shusan 
Gate of the Temple wall — with which this structure must not be 
confounded. 

The Stairs of David were in the immediate vicinity of the 
Fountain Gate, occupying probably the same site now descended by 
a flight cut in the native rock. (Nell. iii. 15, and xii. 37.) 

Intermediate Gate, or gate betwixt the two walls by the King's 
Gardens. The point at which the Tyropceon enters the Kedron 
was much the lowest in all the course of the wall, and hence it was 
deemed necessary to fortify it, both by stone and water, in the man- 
ner represented on the map. This gate seems to have been in the 
short wall connecting Ophel with Zion, built probably upon the 
broad foundation of the lower side of the pool. " Here it was that 
Zedekiah the king of Judah and all the men of war fled and went 
forth out of the city by night, by the way of the King's Garden, 
by the gate betwixt the two walls," "when they saw Nergal-Sharc- 
zer, Shamgar-Nebo, Sarsechim, Rabsaris, Rabmag, with all the resi- 
due of the princes of the king of Babylon, come in and sit in the 
middle gate of the city." (2 Kings xxv. 4; Jer. xxxix. 3, 4, and 
Iii. 7.) 

The House of David doubtless spanned the Tyropceon at this 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



151 



Royal Pool. Out-lying Towers. Water Gate. 

point, and was probably a stoa surrounding, or at least connected 
with, the pool. (Neh. xii. 37.) 

King's Pool, as Nehemiah (or Solomon's Pool, as Josephus,) calls 
it, is generally supposed to be the Fount of the Virgin, which lies three 
or four hundred yards above Siloam ; but this small intermitting 
subterranean fountain conveys so poor an idea of a royal pool, that 
I have no hesitation in discarding such a view, and locating this pool 
about midway between Siloam and the Virgin's Fount, in a very 
suitable spot for the construction of a large reservoir — at the lower 
end of Siloam village, and just at the head of the King's Gardens — 
supplied by the Kedron mainly, but doubtless by the Virgin's Fount 
also, before the subterranean channel was cut, which now conducts 
its water to Siloam. (Neh. ii. 14 ; W. v. iv : 2.) 

Pool of Siloam (see article on Waters of Jerusalem) and King's 
Gardens (see page 92.) 

The Tower that lieth out was probably built over the Virgin's 
Fount, to render it available to the Jews when besieged by their 
enemies. A hole in the rocky roof above, through which the water 
may have been drawn up into the tower, gives some countenance to 
this idea. Why any out-lying tower here, where the wall perched 
on so steep a hillside, was so very inaccessible, except for the object 
indicated ? (Neh. iii. 26.) 

The Water Gate would naturally be situated in the most acces- 
sible and available spot, as indicated on the map where there is a 
curve and concavity in Mount Ophel. The nature of the ground 
would here require the wall to decline somewhat to the right before 
passing around to be united to the Temple. There was also another 
water gate situated within the Temple, on Chel, or the rampart 
south. (Neh. iii. 26 ; and viii. 1 ; and xii. 37.) And also a gate of 
the same name, through or by which an aqueduct entered the Hippie 
premises. 

The Great Tower that lieth out may well have occupied the 
large rock eighty or ninety yards south of the south-east corner of 



152 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Horse Gate. Opklas. Sheep Gate. Tower of Meah. 

the Temple, that still juts out prominently. (Neh. iii. 27.) Or was 
it the Tower of Ophel ? 

The Horse Gate was situated in the vicinity of the Hippodrome, 
which evidently occupied a spot near the south-east corner of the 
Temple wall. In accordance with the indications contained in 
the 4th verse of the 31st chapter of Jeremiah, Nehemiah 
locates this gate in the Valley of the Kedron, in the corner of the 
wall on the east. Some have located it in the Xystus, and others 
on Mount Zion — than which, more inappropriate places could 
scarcely be found ; while here, at this corner, it is at once naturally 
and conveniently situated at an unfrequented place, close to the 
Hippodrome, convenient to fresh water, and near the cattle quarter — 
a most appropriate locality, certainly. It was through this gate 
that the wicked, usurping Queen Athaliah was led forth to be exe- 
cuted. (2 Kings xi. 16-19 ; 2 Chr. xxiii. 15 ; Neh. iii. 28 ; Jer. 
xxxi. 40.) Next in order 

Ophlas, or the Tower of Ophel, which was unquestionably situated 
in the quarter immediately east of the Temple, was probably a very 
large and strong fortress, built apparently in protection of the im- 
mense sacrificial sheep-cote in connexion with it. (Jos. W. v. iv : 2 — 
vi. vi : 3 ; 2 Chr. xxxiii. 14 ; Neh. iii. 27.) Micah evidently apostro- 
phizes it under the name of " Tower of the Flock." (iv. 8.) 

The Sheep Gate, as we would naturally conclude, was situated 
near the Temple, and as is implied in its name, was designed 
rather for the admission of sheep into their particular quarter, than 
that of persons into the city. (See Sheep Quarter.) (Neh. iii. 1, 6, 
12 ; xii. 39 ; John v. 2.) 

The Tower of Meah seems to have been erected on the slope of 
Moriah, where the wall turned at right angles to join the Temple, and 
was probably built, like the Tower of Ophel, in defence of the cattle 
market. (Neh. iii. 1, and xii. 39.) Was Meah a lofty watch-tower — 
a hundred cubits high — as its name may be supposed to import ? 

The Tower of Hananeel was a famous land-mark, and evidently 
located at one extreme of the city, prior to its enlargement by 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



153 



Hananeel. Pish Gate. Benjamin's Gate. Old Gate. Governor's Throne. 

Agrippa. The position assigned it not only fulfils this condition, 
but the defensive demands of the ground in this quarter also : for 
it was more assailable at this point than anywhere else between 
Meah and the Fish Gate. Does not the massive structure now 
forming the north-east corner of the Haram enclosure, stand as the 
representative of this far-famed tower ? (Jer. xxxi. 38 ; Zech. xiv. 
10 ; Neh. iii. 1, and xii. 39.) 

The Fish Gate is next mentioned ; and although it has been so 
variously and strangely located by different topographers, no doubt 
can well be entertained as to the correctness of the position assigned 
to it on the map — near the great « Piscina," or Fish Pool ; and hence 
its name. (2 Chr. xxxiii. 14 ; Neh. iii. 3 ; Zeph. i. 10.) 

The Gate of Benjamin is placed next on the list (as it needs 
must be, if significantly located), and was planted just where the 
situation of the wall relative to the bulk of the district of Benjamin 
required its location. A gate of this name is mentioned in the 37th 
chapter of Jeremiah, 13th verse ; but must not be confounded with the 
Benjamin Gate mentioned Jeremiah xxxviii. 7 ; that gate being evi- 
dently identical with the High Gate of Benjamin, at the Zion extre- 
mity of the great bridge. It was out of this gate that Jeremiah was 
passing, directly on his way to Anathoth, when Irijah, the son of 
Shelemiah, took Jeremiah the prophet, saying, " Thou fallest away 
to the Chaldeans." 

The Old Gate undoubtedly occupied the site of the Damascus 
Gate, very considerable and interesting remains of which are still 
to be seen in the towers on either side of it. An inspection of the 
plan and perspective view of the ancient remains on the east side 
of the Damascus Gate (page 132), though somewhat patched up by 
modern additions, will give the reader the best idea anywhere to be 
had of ancient Jewish tower and stairway. Between this gate and 
the Gate of Ephraim is the judgment hall of the Persian Satrapy 
of Judea, called 

The Throne op the Governor-— Neh. iii. 6, 7, and xii. 39 — no 
remains or special indications of which, however, now exist. 



154 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Gate of Ephraim. Broad Wall. Corner Gate. Tower of Furnaces. 

The Gate of Ephraim, like that of Benjamin, is most appropri- 
ately indicated by the narrative of dedication, just at that portion 
of the wall that faces the canton of the tribe. (2 Kings xiv. 13 ; 
Neh. xii. 39.) 

The Broad Wall is no doubt the doubly built four hundred cubits 
which Joash broke down from the Gate of Ephraim to the Corner 
Gate — at the northern extremity of which was the Gate of Ephraim, 
and at the southern the Corner Gate. (Neh. iii. 8, and xii. 38.) 

The Corner Gate or " Gate that looketh" (in the margin). — 
We would naturally look for this structure at the north-west corner 
of the city ; but it would rather seem to be situated about midway 
between that corner and the general cornering point near Hippicus, 
at the most indefensible part of the wall — just the position indicated 
by the two only references made to it, and required by the nature 
of the ground. The term, however, is sometimes used in a general 
sense to indicate any gate at or near a corner. 

The Tower of Furnaces. — From the Corner Gate the wall ran 
nearly south until it united with that coming from the Temple (the 
" First Wall" of Josephus), when it bent at right angles and ran west 
to the point whence we started. This latter wall is "the other 
piece" in which the Tower of Furnaces was situated — being at the 
west end of it. (Neh. iii. 11, and xii. 38.) 

The First Gate. — It would appear from analogy that this gate 
was situated in the " First Wall" somewhere near the present Jaffa 
Gate — the general topographical starting-point — but was afterwards 
closed ; and hence the expression "place of the first gate." It was 
undoubtedly near "a turning of the wall," if not close to the 
Corner Gate. No definite conclusion is warranted by its mention, 
Zechariah xiv. 10 — the only place where it occurs ; and although 
the Old Gate may be thought as well entitled to the appellation as 
any other, from its undoubted claim to the highest antiquity, yet it 
is called first in respect to importance rather than first in order of 
erection or numerical enumeration ; and the sense of the passage 
evidently requires that it should exist in a portion of the city wall 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



155 



First Gate. David's Sepulchre. House of the Mighty. Armory. 

opposite the well ascertained site of Benjamin's Gate. It would 
seem from the 47th verse of the 5th chapter of 1st Esdras that 
there was also a "first gate" of the Temple; but whether it was 
the outer gate, afterwards called Shusan, or the inner one, subse- 
quently known as " the Beautiful Gate," does not distinctly appear. 
It must be borne in mind that Jerusalem was in ruins at the time 
Zechariah made mention of this gate. 

The Sepulchres of David. — There is an admirable situation for 
rock sepulchres about midway the eastern semilunar, sloping curve 
of Mount Zion, between Siloam and the great bridge ; and it is 
apparently just here that Nehemiah assigns the royal sepulchres a 
place. (Neh. iii. 16.) That tradition has egregiously misplaced the 
"Tomb of David," is too obvious to need demonstration. (See 
article " Neby Daud") 

" The Pool that was made" may well have occupied any part 
of the Tyropoeon Valley : but it is probable that the one here 
alluded to was situated rather nearer the Temple than the royal 
sepulchres were. This is probably the "old pool" (Is. xxii. 11), 
whose waters serving a much better purpose as a defence in the 
ditch between the two walls were sent there, and the pool that was 
made was suffered to fill up. 

The House of the Mighty was no doubt situated on the brow 
on Zion, at the west end of the bridge ; and separated from the 
palace only by a broad street or open space. It is the same build- 
ing elsewhere called the guard chamber, because perhaps the head- 
quarters of the Cherethites, Pelethites, and others composing the 
royal body guard were here lodged. (Neh. iii. 16 ; 2 Chr. xii. 10, 
11 ; 2 Kings xi. 19.) 

The Armory, or House of the Forest of Lebanon, called so 
doubtless from the immense number of spears, bows and arrows, 
balista, battering rams, &c, stored away in this great military maga- 
zine, was situated in the north-east corner of Mount Zion, at the 
turning of the wall, immediately above the north-west corner of the 
Xystus — having the palace of the king on the south, and the palace 



156 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Palace of High Priest. Royal High House. Prisons, &o. 

of the high priest on the west. (1 Kings x. 17 ; Neh. iii. 19 ; Is. 
xxii. 8.) 

The House oe Eliashib the High Priest was undoubtedly 
between the Armory and Millo ; and identical with the palace of the 
high priest mentioned by Josephus and the Evangelists on the 
northern slope of Zion, (see page 82.) (Neh. iii. 20.) 

The King's High House, by the court of the prison, was a very 
lofty watch-tower west of his palace, near to which was an isolated 
tower — not in connexion with the wall. (Neh. iii. 25.) 

The Prison seems to have been on the royal premises west of 
the palace. (Neh. iii. 25 ; Jer. xxxii. 2, 12 ; xxxvii. 21.) But the 
Scribes' House was also used as a prison. (Jer. xxxvii. 15.) 

The Common Prison, if on the royal premises, was, probably, 
not so well furnished as that designed for state prisoners, and dif- 
fered from it merely in this respect : but nothing is certainly known 
in relation to its position. (Acts v. 18, 19; xii. 4, 5, 7, 17.) 

Prison Gate. — Besides the ordinary gate of the prison, there 
was also a gate of that name in the Temple (Neh. xii. 39, 40), and 
was identical, no doubt, with the gate ShallechetJi, which seems to 
have been provided with stocks for the security, if not for the 
punishment, of prisoners. 

Miph-kad Gate — judgment — correction ; identical with the High 
Gate of Benjamin, where there were stocks, either for the correction 
or detention of prisoners — hence the name. (Neh. iii. 6 ; Jer. xx. 2.) 
It was situated at the west end of the Tyropoeon Bridge — the great 
" Causey." 

The Scribes' Chamber was in the King's House. (Jer. xxxvi. 
12.) This office pertained only to the royal household ; and must 
not be confounded with the "Repository of Archives," in or near 
Parbar — the outer place of the Temple. 

Second Gate. — A gate in the upper part of Gihon Valley wall 
seems to be indicated by the prophet : * * * " The noise of a cry 
from the Fish Gate, and an howling from the « second,' * * * howl, 
ye inhabitants of Maktesh, for all the merchant people are cut down, 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



157 



Second Gate. Structures of the " First Wall." 

and all that bear silver are cut off." (Zeph. i. 10.) If this language 
indicate the existence of a gate called "second," it was probably 
that near the Fish Gate, giving entrance into the second part of the 
city. Mmktmhj if its etymology be significant, would point to the 
Tyropceon, in the neighborhood of the Temple, occupied by the 
merchants, goldsmiths, moneyers, &c, where the Mint was also 
probably situated. The Talmud also mentions a second or " Bird 
Gate" but does not locate it. Was it so called because the birds 
required under the Jewish ritual were there kept for sale ? 

We have thus completed the tour of all the outer walls of the city, 
as they stood prior to the addition of the third wall by Agrippa, 
A. D. 40. But before considering the structures in this latter wall, 
it will be well to notice the towers and gates of the wall along the 
Gihon Valley and lower Tyropceon, as well as those that Josephus 
describes on the line of the "First Wall." Those of the Gihon 
Valley and lower Tyropoeon wall being elsewhere described, need 
here only be enumerated in their associated position. Commencing 
below, they are as follows : — The Tower of Siloam, Gate of the 
Fountain, Stairs of the City of David, House of the Mighty, Gate 
of the Bridge, Palace and Xystus, Armory and Gate in the upper 
part of the Gihon Valley wall. There were doubtless several gates 
and towers in the Gihon Valley wall between the Armory and the 
gate near Antonia. 

TOWERS ON THE "FIRST WALL," OR "OLD WALL." 

Hard by the Tower of Hippieus (which was not in actual contact 
with the wall, as might be inferred from one or two passages, but 
some distance south of it), Josephus informs us that two others were 
erected — " The second tower which he named from his brother, 
Phasaelus, had its breadth and its height, equal each of them forty 
cubits ; over which was its solid height of forty cubits, over which 
a cloister went round about, whose height was ten cubits, and it was 
covered from enemies by breastworks and bulwarks. There was 
also built over that cloister another tower, parted into magnificent 



158 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Towers of Mariamne and Phasaelus. 

rooms, and a place for bathing ; so that this tower wanted nothing 
that might make it appear to be a royal palace. It was also adorned 
with turrets and battlements, more than was the foregoing, and the 
entire altitude was about ninety cubits ; the appearance of it re- 
sembled the tower of Pharos, which exhibited a fire to such as sailed 
to Alexandria, but was much larger than it in compass. This was 
now converted into a house wherein Simon executed his tyrannical 
authority. The third tower was Mariamne, for that was his queen's 
name. It was solid as high as twenty cubits ; its breadth and its 
length were twenty cubits, and were equal to each other ; its upper 
buildings were more magnificent, and had greater variety than the 
other towers had ; for the king thought it most proper for him to 
adorn that which was denominated from his wife better than those 
denominated from men, as those were built stronger than this last 
that bore his wife's name. The entire length of this tower was fifty 
cubits. Now, as these towers were so very tall, they appeared much 
taller by the place on which they stood : for that very old wall 
wherein they were, was built on a high hill, and was itself a kind 
of elevation that was still thirty cubits taller ; over which were the 
towers situated, and thereby were made much higher to appearance. 
The largeness also of the stones was wonderful, for they were not 
made of common small stones, nor of such large ones as men could 
carry, but they were made of white marble, cut out of the rock ; 
each stone was twenty cubits in length, and ten in breadth, and five 
in depth. They were so exactly united to one another, that each 
tower looked like one entire rock of stone, so growing naturally, 
and afterwards cut by the hand of artificers into their present shape 
and corners ; so little or not at all did their joints or connexion 
appear." (W. v. iv : 3.) 

The Tower of Mariamne was probably situated a short distance 
west of the depression in Mount Zion, which is still visible, though 
greatly filled up at or near Millo ; and Phasaelus was probably at 
or near the junction of the first and second walls, near the Gate 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



159 



Gennath Gate. Psephine Tower. 

Gennath, where the Tyropoeon must have been quite shallow, and 
the wall must have required very strong fortifications. 

Gennath Gate. — Only one gate of the first or old wall is spe- 
cially mentioned — the Gate of Gardens, as the name imports. It 
is generally supposed to be so called because it led to gardens close 
at hand; but, inasmuch as Jerusalem was surrounded with gardens, 
this designation is not sufficiently distinctive ; and, besides, the 
immediate environs in this quarter were occupied by houses, as we 
learn from Josephus. Was it not rather so called because it opened 
into the public pleasure garden attached to Herod's Palace ? All 
we know of it is from the following words of Josephus: — "The 
second wall took its beginning from that gate which they call Gen- 
nath, which belonged to the first wall." The nature of the ground 
and the circumstances of the case equally require its location just 
at the spot assigned it on the map. There was, of course, another 
gate in the " old wall" where it crossed the Tyropoeon opening to 
the Xystus, and one at Millo where Mount Zion was accessible 
through the Valley of Zion ; but so very inaccessible must the wall 
have been along the intervening spaces, that the erection of other 
gates w T ould have been useless — and hence the necessity for the 
great Templo-Zion Bridge. The gate mentioned by Josephus as 
that through which water was brought into the Hippie Tower is evi- 
dently the Gennath. (W. v. iv : 2.) 

TOWERS, GATES, ETC., IN THE THIRD WALL. 

The buildings of the "Second Wall" having been already consi- 
dered, (pp. 131-134) those of the "Third Wall" will now come 
under review. 

In the 5th book, 4th chapter, and 3d section of the Wars of the 
Jews, Josephus thus describes the 

Tower of Psephinos. — « Now, the third wall was all of it won- 
derful ; yet was the Tower Psephinos elevated above it at the north- 
west corner, and there Titus pitched his own tent ; for, being seventy 
cubits high, it both afforded a prospect of Arabia at sun-rising, as 



160 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Corner Tower. Women's Towers. 

it did of the utmost limits of the Hebrew possessions at the sea 
westward. Moreover, it was an octagon." (W. v. iv: 3.) The 
spot upon which Psephinos stood was only a few feet higher than 
the site of the Church of Ascension, from the rear of which the 
Dead Sea is visible ; and as the Mediterranean can be seen from 
the hills around Neby Samuel, which is only forty or fifty feet 
higher than the site of Psephinos, it is not at all improbable that 
this is the sea alluded to, and not the Dead Sea, as supposed by 
some authors ; for Mount Olivet would entirely exclude the view of 
that depressed sheet of water. There are strong indications of the 
ancient wall nearly all the way to the site of the Psephinos Tower. 

The Tower of the Corner. — Although there are no reliable 
remains to indicate the spot, yet, with Josephus in hand and the 
localities before the eye, no great error can well be committed in 
locating this tower, as is done on the map, at the spot where the 
nature of the ground requires that the wall should bend almost at 
right angles. "The Monument of the Fuller" would, of course, 
fall a short distance within this angle of the wall. This view receives 
some confirmation by the vicinity of the royal sepulchres — " sepul- 
chral caverns of the kings" — (Tombs of the Kings) to the wall, 
seventy or eighty yards to the north of which, the wall passes on upon 
an eligible site. (W. v. iv : 2.) 

The Women's Towers would, of course, fall somewhere between 
Psephinos and the Fuller's Monument. If Titus approached the 
city by the road now generally travelled from Gabaath Saul (Gibeah 
of Saul), supposing the present Tel el-Ful to be the capital of Saul's 
dominions, then they were situated somewhere near the Tombs of the 
Kings. But if the road leading at that time from Gabaath (as it 
probably did) approached the wall where the road from Beit Han- 
nina now enters, (i. e. through the ash-mound Tel el-Massabin) — for 
Titus seems to have approached the wall somewhat at right angles, 
as that road now does, and not obliquely like the other — then the 
Women's Towers were situated much further south-west, pro- 
bably on the scarped rock covered by the ashes — certainly near this 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



161 



Gates of Foundation, Sur, Guard, Benjamin. 

spot. Excavations made in this ash-inound would, no doubt, reveal 
two rock eminences through which the road now passes — on which 
towers could be so securely built and easily defended as to justify 
the appellation of Women's Towers. Helena s Tomb was opposite 
the Women's Towers ; and if the latter is correctly located, they 
would, probably, be some distance off, as is strongly implied. (W. 
v. iii : 3). 

Of the ninety towers and numerous gates of this extensive wall, 
these are all that are designated by name. But it may be well, in 
this connexion, to bring under consideration such gates, towers, 
and other mural structures not elsewhere described, as are incident- 
ally mentioned in the Sacred Scriptures or the writings of Josephus 
and the Talmudists. 

GATES IN OTHER WALLS. 

The Gate of the Foundation was unquestionably the same as 
the High Gate of Benjamin at the western end of the bridge (2 Chr. 
xxiii. 5), and was so called because it was built upon the massive 
foundations constituting the abutments of the west end of the Tyro- 
poeon Bridge. 

The Gate of Sur [withdrawing) would appear to be the gate 
entering the court of the palace. (2 Kings xi. 6.) 

Gate of the Guard — seems to be used synonymously with the 
Gate of the Foundation ; but was most probably a gate leading into 
the court of the Guard Chamber, or House of the Mighty. It was 
certainly somewhere near, or directly at the west end of the bridge. 
(2 Kings xi. 6, 19, and 2 Chr. xxiii. 5.) 

Gate of Benjamin, by the palace, or more distinctively — 

High Gate of Benjamin — is different from Benjamin Gate men- 
tioned Zech. xiv. 10, Jer. xxxvii. 13, and xxxviii. 7 — the latter 
being a gate in the outer wall of the city, and the former at the 
west end of the Temple Bridge, "by the House of the Lord." 
There were stocks in this gate ; and it was therefore a kind of 
prison, and called Miph-kad, or Judgment Gate. (2 Chr. xxiii. 20, 
11 



162 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Gates Shallecheth, High, Higher, New, Joshua, Royal. 

and xxvii. 3 ; Jer. xx. 2.) It was situated at the Zion end of the 
great bridge. King Zedekiah was sitting here in judgment when 
the kind-hearted Ebed-Melech, the Ethiopian, interceded in behalf 
of Jeremiah, who had been cast into a dungeon beneath the royal 
treasury of the palace. (Jer. xxxviii. 7-13.) 

The Gate Shallecheth was at the east end of the Tyropoeon 
Bridge, being the entrance to the great Stoa Basilica of the Temple ; 
whilst Miph-kad, at the other extremity, gave admittance to the 
royal premises on Zion. 

The High Gate seems to be used as a mere abbreviation for the 
High Gate of Benjamin, at the Zion end of the great bridge. 

The High Gate of the House of the Lord would appear to be 
the gate at the east end of the bridge, opposite the High Gate of 
Benjamin — and was no doubt placed in a tower at the west end of 
the Stoa Basilica. (2 Chr. xxiii. 20, 27.) It would seem to be 
identical with the Gate Shallecheth, by the causeway of the going 
up. (1 Chr. xxvi. 16.) Many of the gates about the Temple seem 
to have been known under various synonyms. 

The Higher Gate of the House of the Lord was probably the 
Gate Nicanor. (2 Kings xv. 35.) The position of this gate — upon 
the upper terrace — well entitles it to such an appellation. 

The New Gate — " The New Gate in the higher court of th£ 
Lord's House," is the Gate Nicanor, synonymous, no doubt, with 
the last mentioned — giving entrance into the Court of Israel from 
the Court of the Women, or the New Court. 

The Gate of Joshua is only once mentioned (2 Kings xxiii. 8). 
and then in such a way — though with apparent exactness — that it 
is impossible to locate it with any certainty whatever. 

The King's Entry, or Gate Eastward — may either have been 
the Gate Shushan or that at the west end of the bridge, otherwise 
called the High Gate of Benjamin. The name was probably applied 
to both. (1 Chr. ix. 18.) 

The Middle Gate is mentioned Jeremiah xxxix. 3, but not in 
such a way as to indicate its position. We may suppose, with some 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 1C3 
Middle Gate. 

degree of certainty, that it was situated in the interior of the city ; 
a fit place would be in the wall running from the " First Wall" to 
the " Second," dividing Akra from the immediate environs of the 
Temple. It is evident at least that the defence of the city was con- 
sidered hopeless after the capture of the wall in which this gate was 
situated. 



CHAPTER VII. 



CASTLES, CITADELS, FORTRESSES, PALACES, ETC. 
" Consider her palaces." 

Fort of Zion. — Besides the large towers already described, there 
were still more capacious and strongly fortified military structures, 
styled citadels, forts, palaces, strongholds, &c. All that portion of 
Mount Zion, wrested from the Jebusites by David, seems at one 
time to have passed under the name of Fort or Stronghold of 
Zion (2 Sam. v. 7, 9) ; but it was no doubt specially applied to the 
cliffs above the Xystus. This term would seem also to be applied 
to the rock and fort of Akra, the great Acropolis, afterward so 
famous in the Syrian wars. (2 Sam. v. 17.) The Cave of Macpe- 
lah is also called a stronghold. 

The Castle of Zion is also a term used to designate all that por- 
tion of the Holy Hill mentioned above and in the parallel passage 
of Chronicles. (1 Chr. xi. 4, 7.) 

"The Tower of David" is but another name for the Armory, 
That it was a tall round structure, is certainly intimated by the 
following lines from the pen of the "Sweet Singer's" gifted son. 
" Thy neck is like the tower of David, builded for an armory, 
whereon they hung a thousand bucklers, all shields of mighty men." 
(Cant. iv. 4.) 

The Citadel is also what Josephus calls this portion of Zion 
(Ant. vii. iii : 1), but he afterwards appropriates it to Baris in the 
Lower City, so long held by the Syrians,'" which was high and over- 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



165 



The Citadel. Millo. The Castle. Baris. 

looked the city." (Ant. xii. v: 4; and vii. 6; also xiii. v: 11.) 
And the appellation was not only applied to the fortifications on that 
celebrated rock, but to all that part of the city — which retained the 
name long after the castle had been removed, and the very rock 
upon which it was founded razed to its base by the Jews, " that it 
might not be any more a place of refuge to their enemies when they 
took it * * * that so the Temple might be higher than it." (Ant. 
xiii. vi : 7 ; and Wars i. i : 4.) 

Millo appears also to have been a military fortification (see 
article) at the junction of the Tyropoeon and Zion valleys. 

The Castle, so frequently mentioned or alluded to in the New 
Testament, is no doubt the Tower of Antonia; the term would, 
therefore, seem to have been applied at first to a portion of Mount 
Zion, then to a portion of Akra, and finally was monopolized by the 
fortress of Moriah. (See Antonia, article Temple.) 

It was in an apartment in this castle, or rather in the palace per- 
taining to it, called the Judgment Hall, that our adorable Redeemer 
was so cruelly mocked, scourged, and condemned to death by Pon- 
tius Pilate. (John xviii. 28, 33 ; xix. 3.) And it was from the 
stairway leading up to this castle from the grand colonnade of 
Antonia, that Paul delivered that admirable address recorded in the 
22d of Acts, when rescued from the infuriated Jews by the chief 
captain of the Temple. (Acts xxi. 34, 37 ; xxii. 24 ; xxiii. 10, 
16.) The Pretorium does not appear to be the Judgment Hall, but 
the Common Hall, another room in the palace whither the Roman 
soldiers led the Saviour to mock and maltreat him. (Compare Mat. 
xxvii. 27 ; and Mark xv. 16.) 

Baris was a term applied to the acropolis of Akra. When Simon, 
the celebrated high priest and general of the Jews, had finally res- 
cued this citadel from the Syrians, he persuaded the citizens of 
Jerusalem to destroy the citadel together with the rock upon which 
it was built. Some idea of the extent of this acropolis may be in- 
ferred from the fact that its demolition occupied the multitude three 
whole years, both day and night. The slight elevation in that quar- 



166 



CITY OF THE GEE AT KING. 



Strato's Tower. Solomon's Palace. 

ter of Akra where the house of Rabbi Schwartz is situated, not far 
from the west end of the Cotton Bazaar, may possibly indicate its 
position. 

Baris is also the name of a tower in Ecbatana : it seems to have 
been a generic term for fortified places ; and as such is sometimes 
employed to designate the Tower of Antonia. 

Strato's Tower. — This appellation is best known in history as the 
original name of Ccesarea Palestina ; but it is also the name of a 
famous tower of the Temple area somewhere between the Holy 
House and the Tower of Antonia. It was while passing through 
the dark subterraneous passages of this tower, on his way to pay 
his respects to King Aristobulus his brother (lying sick in the 
Tower of Antonia), that Antigonus was unfortunately slain by a 
cunning and mean device of the queen. (W. i. iii : 1-6 ; and Ant. 
xiii. xi : 1-3). 

The King's House, or the Royal Palace. — In all Jerusalem 
there is not a more eligible spot for a palace than the high north- 
east cliff of Zion nearest the Temple — the site of the American 
Christian Mission premises — and accordingly it is precisely at this 
spot that Josephus locates with so much precision the royal residence 
of the Asmonean and Herodian sovereigns ; nor is there the slightest 
reason to doubt that it was the royal abode of the Davidian dynasty 
also : indeed, no other locality is at all consistent with the frequent 
allusions to the "King's House" in the Old Testament. Herod 
the Great — it is true — that great fortress and palace builder — had 
another palace erected in the west of the city, as he also had at 
Herodium and various other places. But this seems at all times to 
have been the fixed official abode of the chief Executive of Israel. 
We have a brief account of Solomon's palace (which, by way of in- 
timating its magnificence we are told was " thirteen years in build- 
ing,") in the 7th chapter of the 1st book of the Kings; but Jose- 
phus gives a much more detailed account in the following words. 
"It is necessary that I describe the entire structure and disposition 
of the parts, that so those that light upon this book may thereby 



JERUSALE M — AS IT WAS. 167 
Palace of King Solomon. 

make a conjecture, and, as it were, have a prospect of its magni- 
tude. 

" This house was a large and curious building, and was supported 
by many pillars, which Solomon built to contain a multitude, for 
hearing causes and taking cognisance of suits. It was sufficiently 
capacious to contain a great body of men, who could come together 
to have their causes determined. It was a hundred cubits long, and 
fifty broad, and thirty high : supported by quadrangular pillars, 
which were all of cedar ; but its roof was according to the Corin- 
thian order, with folding doors, and their adjoining pillars of equal 
magnitude, each fluted with three cavities : which building was at 
once firm and very ornamented. There was also another house so 
ordered, that its entire breadth was placed in the middle ; it was 
quadrangular, and its breadth was thirty cubits, having a temple 
over against it, raised upon massy pillars ; in which temple there 
was a large and very glorious room, wherein the king sat in judg- 
ment. To this was joined another house, that was built for his 
queen. There were other smaller edifices for diet and for sleep, 
after public matters were over ; and these were all floored with 
boards of cedar. Some of these Solomon built with stones of ten 
cubits, and wainscoated the walls with other stones that were sawed, 
and were of great value, such as are dug out of the earth for the 
ornaments of temples, and to make fine prospects in royal 
palaces, and which make the mines whence they are dug famous. 
Now the contexture of the curious workmanship of these stones was 
in three rows, but the fourth row would make one admire its sculp- 
tures, whereby were represented trees, and all sorts of plants, with 
the shades that arose from their branches, and leaves that hung down 
from them. These trees and plants covered the stone that was 
beneath them, and their leaves were wrought so prodigious thin and 
subtile, that you would think they were in motion ; but the other 
part, up to the roof, was plastered over, and, as it were, embroidered 
with colors and pictures. He moreover built other edifices for 
pleasure ; as also very long cloisters, and those situated in an agree- 



168 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Palaces of Solomon and Agrippa. 

able place of the palace ; and among them a most glorious dining- 
room, for feastings and compotations, and full of gold and such other 
furniture as so fine a room ought to have for the conveniency of the 
guests, and when all the vessels were made of gold. Now it is very 
hard to reckon up the magnitude and the variety of the royal apart- 
ments ; how many rooms there were of the largest sort, how many 
of a bigness inferior to those, and how many that were subterra- 
neous and invisible ; the curiosity of those that enjoyed the fresh 
air ; and the groves for the most delightful prospect, for the avoid- 
ing the heat and covering of their bodies. And to say all in brief, 
Solomon made the whole building entirely of white stone and cedar 
wood, and gold and silver." (Ant. viii. v: 2.) 

Such was the sumptuous residence of that illustrious king of 
Israel ; and very similar, no doubt, was the palace of the no less 
splendor-loving Herodian family, situated on the same spot, and thus 
described by the same author : » King Agrippa built himself a 
very large dining-room in the royal palace at Jerusalem, near to the 
portico. Now this palace had been erected of old by the children 
of Asmoneans, and situate upon an elevation, and afforded a most 
delightful prospect to those that had a mind to take a view of the 
city, which prospect was desired by the king ; and then he could 
lie down, and eat, and thence observe what was done in the Temple : 
which thing, when the chief men of Jerusalem saw, they were very 
much displeased at it ; for it was not agreeable to the institutions 
of our country or law that what was done in the Temple should be 
viewed by others, especially what belonged to the sacrifices. They 
therefore erected a wall upon the uppermost building which belonged 
to the inner court of the Temple towards the west ; which wall, 
when it was built, did not only intercept the prospect of the dining- 
room in the palace, but also of the western cloisters that belong to 
the outer court of the Temple also, where it was that the Romans 
kept guards for the Temple at the festivals. At these doings, both 
King Agrippa, and principally Festus, the Procurator, were much 
displeased." (Ant. xx. viii: 11.) 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



1G9 



Palace of Berenice. Upper Pal.-ice of Herod the Great. 

But, through the influence of Nero's wife — the Jew-befriending 
Poppea, "who was a religious woman" — the wall was permitted to 
remain. And this same wall, by-the-bye, completely refutes the 
traditionary location of this palace on Bezetha. This splendid 
Palace extended from the western extremity of the Great Bridge 
along the brow of the cliff ; and the distance separating it from the 
Armory could have been but small, if built, as it probably was, 
upon the foundation of Solomon's. Its position is well defined in 
the following extract from Josephus: "concerning the effort made 
by Agrippa to quell the insurrectionary movements of the Jews. 
He therefore called the multitude together into a large gallery [the 
Xystus], and placed his sister Berenice in the house of the Asmo- 
neans, that she might be seen by them (which house was over the 
gallery, at the passage to the Upper City, where the bridge joined 
the Temple to the gallery). (W. ii. xvi : 3.) 

The Palace of Berenice appears to have been situated just in 
the rear of Agrippa's, not far from that of the high priest — pro- 
bably on the foundation of that built by Solomon for his wife — and 
was destroyed at the same time that Agrippa's and the high priest's 
were. (W. ii. xvii : 6.) 

The Upper Palace of Herod the Great. — This seems to have 
been one of the most splendid of all the magnificent palaces of the 
Magnificent Herod ; and hence the great topographer of Jerusalem 
and historiographer of Israel thus minutely describes it : — « He also 
built himself a place in the Upper City, containing two very large 
and most beautiful apartments, to which the Holy House itself could 
not be compared [in largeness]. The one apartment he named 
Csesareum, and the other Agrippium, from his [two great] friends." 
(W. i. xxi : 1.) But he enters more fully into detail in the fol- 
lowing account of it when speaking of the position of the Mari- 
amne and Phasaelus Towers, on the north side of the First or Old 
Wall :— 

" Now as these towers were themselves on the north side of the 
wall, the king had a palace inwardly thereto adjoined, which ex- 



170 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Herodian Palace. Palace of the House. Maccabean Palace. 

ceeds all my ability to describe it ; for it was so very curious as to 
want no cost or skill in its construction, but was entirely walled 
about to the height of thirty cubits, and was adorned with towers 
at equal distances, and with large bedchambers, that would contain 
beds for a hundred guests apiece, in which the variety of the stones 
is not to be expressed ; for a large quantity of those that were rare 
of their kind was collected together. These roofs were also won- 
derful, both for the length of the beams and the splendor of their 
ornaments. The number of the rooms was also very great, and the 
variety of the figures that were about them was prodigious ; their 
furniture was complete, and the greatest part of the vessels that 
were put in them was of silver and gold. There were besides many 
porticoes, one beyond another, round about, and in each of 
these porticoes curious pillars ; yet were all the courts that were 
exposed to the air everywhere green. There were moreover several 
groves of trees and long walks through them, with deep canals, and 
cisterns that in several parts were filled with brazen statues through 
which the water ran out. There were withal many dove courts of 
tame pigeons about the canals ; but, indeed, it is not possible to give 
a complete description of these palaces ; and the very remembrance 
of them is a torment to one, as putting one in mind what vastly 
rich buildings that fire which was kindled by the robbers hath con- 
sumed ; for these were not burnt by the Romans, but by those inter- 
nal plotters, as we have already related, in the beginning of their 
rebellion. That fire began at the Tower of Antonia, and went on 
to the palaces, and consumed the upper parts of the three towers 
themselves." (W. v. iv : 4.) 

"The Palace that appertained to the House." — It is uncer- 
tain whether, by this appellation, the royal palace on Zion was 
intended, or a palatial castle at that time existing on the acropolis 
of Akra. (Nek. ii. 8.) 

The Maccabean Palace, we learn from Josephus (Ant. xx. ix : 
11), "was erected of old by the children of Asmoneus, and was 
situate" upon the exact site of the Herodian palace, then occupied 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



171 



High Priest's Palace. Helena's Palace. Monobasus' Palace. 

by King Agrippa — the Pavidian, Asmonean, and Herodian Palaces 
having all been built upon the cliff of Zion nearest the Temple. 

Palace of Pontius Pilate. (See Tower of Antonia, Chapter 
IX.) 

The Palace of the High Priest — Where the council of scribes, 
elders, and priests was convened by Caiaphas for the trial of the 
Saviour — was situated between Millo and the Armory, on the north- 
eastern slope of Mount Zion. As thus situated on a declivity, a story 
below the chief suite of rooms was very natural, and indeed almost 
unavoidable : and this circumstance enables us the better to under- 
stand the expression (Mark xiv. 66) — " Peter was beneath in the 
palace." We are likewise informed — a fact which might also be 
inferred from its peculiar situation — that there was a porch in front 
of this lower story where Peter was. (Neh. iii. 20, 21 ; Matt. xxvi. 
58, 69, 71 ; Mark xiv. 54, 66, 68, 69 ; Luke xxii. 54, 55 ; John 
xviii. 16 ; Jos. Wars ii. xviii : 6.) 

Palace of Queen Helena. — All that we know of the palace of 
this royal convert to Judaism and munificent benefactress of the 
Jews, is the mere assertion of Josephus that it " was in the middle 
of Akra." (W. vi. vi : 3.) 

Palace of Monobasus. — We know nothing farther of the palace 
of this eminent proselyte of the Jews, than what Josephus records 
in the 1st section of the 6th chapter of his Wars of the Jews : — 
" Simon held the Upper City and the Great Wall as far as Kedron, 
and as much of the Old Wall as bent from Siloani to the east [fac- 
ing the east],* and which went down to the Palace of Monobasus, 
who was king of the Adiabini beyond the Euphrates." It is thus 
found located in the extreme south-eastern portion of Mount Zion. 
As neither King Monobasus the elder or younger ever resided at 
Jerusalem, this palace was probably the residence of the five sons 
whom Izates sent to Jerusalem out of his family of forty-eight child- 
ren ; and was named in honor of his father. Being called by Jo- 



* See note, page 129. 



172 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Grapte's Palace. Sanhedrim. Repository of Archives. 

sephus, the " Palace of Monobasses who was king of the Adia- 
bene," it cannot have been the property of the Monobasus a relative, 
who was killed at Jerusalem by the Romans. 

The Royal Palace of Grapte — Another relation of Izates the 
king of Adiabene, is only mentioned once, and then in such a way 
as to give no certain clue to its location ; but it was probably near 
the Temple — and on Akra. (W. iv. ix : 11.) 

Council House, or Chamber of the Sanhedrim — Was situated 
near the spot where the " First Wall" of Josephus abutted against 
the western wall of the Temple, with which it was, no doubt, con- 
nected, either by an intervening portico or by actual junction. We 
learn from the Talmud that it was built upon piers and arches — in 
order, no doubt, to elevate it to the level of the Temple area. The 
present Mekhemeh or Council Chamber of the Turkish Divan, where 
the Mejlis or Congress of Jerusalem holds its deliberations, having 
one entrance directly into the Haram and another into the elevated 
causeway street, probably occupies its identical site ; and the Sanhe- 
drim, like the Mekhemeh, may have been built over the pool. (W. 
v. iv : 2 ; and vi. vi : 3.) 




SARCOPHAGUS FROM KUBR EL MOLUK. 



Repository of the Archives, where the civil documents of the 
Jews were kept, was situated on Akra Hill, or in the valley appa- 
rently not far from the Council Chamber — and, probably, in the 
"outer place" that seems to have surrounded the Temple. (W. 
ii. xvii : 6 ; and vi. vi : 3.) 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



173 



The Mint. Azuppim. Chamberlain's House. Royal Stables. 

Mint. — We have no definite information in relation to the Mint of 
Israel, either in the Scriptures, Josephus, or any other work with 
which I am acquainted ; but we may reasonably conclude that it 
was situated in the neighborhood of the Council Chamber, Hall of 
Archives, and other public buildings in the " outer place." It was 
just here (along the western wall of the Temple) that the merchants 
seem to have been especially congregated, as well as the goldsmiths 
and moneyers. And a passage in the prophecy of Zephaniah seems 
to render it probable, in the highest degree, that the Jewish coinage 
was minted in this quarter, which would seem, with very little doubt, 
to be the place denominated Maktesh. " Howl, ye inhabitants of 
Maktesh, for all the merchant people are cut down : all they that 
bear silver are cut off." (i. 10-12.) 

In more modern times (about the era of the Crusades) minting 
operations have been conducted in the Tower of Hippicus. 

The House of Azuppim, or Gathering, seems to have adjoined 
the Temple on the south — and may have been the magazine for 
storing away the tithes contributed for the Levites. (1 Chr. xxvi. 
16, 17.) 

Chamber of Nathan Melek the Chamberlain. — This edifice 
was in the suburbs as we learn from 2d Kings xxiii. 11, either on the 
south side between the Hippodrome and the nearest of the two 
southern gates of the Temple, or by the gate Shushan in the Sheep 
Quarter, most probably the latter. 

The King's House by the Horse Gate (the King's Horse s 
House). — This is by no means the king's palace, as is generally sup- 
posed, but is evidently the royal stables, quite distant from the 
palace. Queen Athaliah, the wicked usurper, was put to death at 
the Horse Gate near this edifice by order of Jehoiada the high 
priest. It would have been strange, indeed, after all the pains 
taken by Jehoiada to exclude her army from the Temple, at the coro- 
nation of the young king, had they incurred the hazard of her res- 
cue by sending her back over the bridge to her army, instead of 
taking her for execution in the opposite direction — to the desecrated 



174 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Hippodrome. College. Amphitheatre. Theatre. 

Valley of Kedron. But that this view of the matter is correct we 
have the positive testimony of Josephus, who informs us that 
" Jehoida called for the captains of hundreds, and commanded them 
to bring Athaliah to the valley of Kedron and slay her there 
* * * * * wherefore, those that had the charge of her slaughter 
took hold of her and led her to the Gate of the King's Mules and 
slew her there." (Ant. ix. vii : 2.) The Gate of the King's Mules 
is, no doubt, the Horse Gate of the Scriptures — and the Hippodrome 
is, probably, the King's (Horse's) House : though this term, in its 
largest sense, would include the race-ground attached, as well as the 
royal stable. (2 Kings xi. 16 ; and 2 Chr. xxiii. 15.) 

The Hippodeome. — Although the kings of Israel were forbidden 
to " multiply horses to themselves," yet, if they did not entirely dis- 
regard the prohibition themselves, they so far disobeyed it as to give 
them to the Sun (Baal probably), and built them a fine palace near 
the Horse Gate. (Ant. vii. x : 2, 8 ; Wars ii. iii : 1.) 

The College or School, or Second Part, where Huldah the pro- 
phetess dwelt, was perhaps situated in the suburbs of Antonia, 
amongst the other public buildings. Was it the School of the Pro- 
phets — and were the vestments of the high priest reposited there 
previous to their removal to the Tower of Antonia ? (2 Kings xxii. 
14 ; 2 Chr. xxxiv. 22.) 

Synagogues. — There were from four hundred and sixty to four 
hundred and eighty synagogues in the city, for giving instruction in 
the Bible and in the traditions of the elders. 

Amphitheatre. — Herod the Great built a very large amphitheatre 
in the plain near Jerusalem — probably some distance north-west of 
Damascus Gate. (Ant. xv. viii : 1.) But no remains of it are now 
to be seen ; and in the absence of all definite information, we are 
left entirely to conjecture as to its exact location. 

Theatre. — The location of Herod's Theatre is nowhere indicated, 
but it was no doubt a considerable distance from the Temple and 
other venerated places — it may have been somewhere in the north- 
western corner of the old city — on Akra, near the " Street of 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 175 
Circus. Market place. Street of House of God. 

the Strangers," who would be its principal patrons. (Ant. xv. 
viii : 1.) 

The Open Market Place, in which Pontius Pilate insidiously 
attacked the Jews on account of their persevering opposition to his 
"images," is by some called a Circus ; but we have no intimation 
of its locality. (Ant. xviii. iii : 1, and Wars ii. ix : 3.) 

Upper Market. — Although this term was generally used to 
designate the whole " Upper City" or Mount Zion, yet it would also 
seem to be used in a more restricted sense, to indicate a market 
place also on the Holy Hill. There were also market places of a 
general as well as special character in other parts of the city. 

The Timber Market, we learn from Josephus, was situated in 
Ccenopolis, or the "New City." 

Wool Market. — The "Street of Wool Dealers" was probably 
situated at the lower extremity of the city, near the " Skin Pool," 
or lower Pool of Siloam. And in the same quarter also, we should 
locate the " Street of Butchers." There were Grarment Bazaars in 
Coenopolis ; but doubtless in the older part of the city also. 

The Bakers' Street is mentioned ( Jer. xxxvii. 21), but not located ; 
neither is the Braziers' Bazaar, of which Josephus speaks ; nor the 
"Strangers' Street" mentioned by the Talmud — farther than its 
relative position — that it was an upper street. It may readily be 
inferred, however, that all such resident Gentiles would be required 
to take up their abode as far from the Temple as possible — probably 
in the upper corner of Akra — the highest part of the city prior to 
the annexation of the suburbs. 

Mention is made by the Talmud of a great court walled in with 
stone, called Beth-Jazzek, where a grand assembly of those deputed 
to testify in relation to the moon were handsomely entertained every 
month. But we are not informed in what part of the city it was 
situated. 

The Street of the Rouse of Grod (plateia), is evidently the east- 
ernmost portion of the Court of the Gentiles, equal in breadth to the 
distance between the eastern portico called Solomon's Porch, and 
the Sacred Fence. (Ezra x. 9.) (See section on the Temple.) 



176 CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 

Streets. Herod's Monument. Alexander's Monument. 

The East Street mentioned in the 4th verse of the 29th chapter 
of 2 Chronicles, is but another name for the same "broad space." 

The Street of the Water Crate mentioned by Nehemiah (viii. 1, 3, 
16), was doubtless the vacant space in the Hippodrome area, just in 
front of the Water Gate of the city wall, though it is also appli- 
cable to that portion of the Court of the Gentiles lying between 
the Sacred Fence and the southern portico — the royal Basilica im- 
mediately in front of the Water Gate of the Temple. 

The streets of the Holy City seem to have differed from those of 
all othe±- cities in the provision made to prevent " clean" passengers 
from coming into contact with the "unclean" — one side being ele- 
vated for the benefit of the former, and the latter being compelled 
to walk in a depressed portion. They are represented by Josephus 
as being very narrow ; but, being paved with white marble, must have 
presented a neat and elegant appearance, and certainly convey no 
mean intimation of the magnificence of the City of the Great King. 

Herod's Monuments. — Which of the Herods this structure was 
monumental of, we are not informed ; but it was no doubt Herod 
the Great — the great palace, fortress, and monument builder. It 
adjoined the reservoir called the Serpent's Pool (which seems to 
have been identical with that now called the Upper Gihon), and was 
not, therefore, a sepulchral structure. I have elsewhere ventured 
the conjecture that these monuments were reared by Herod the 
Great, in commemoration of his great achievement in bringing water 
from Etham at so high an elevation. (See article, Ch. x.) (Wars 
v. iii : 2, and v. xii : 2.) 

The Monument of King Alexander was evidently situated 
northward from the Temple — on the Hill Goath — not far from the 
present Birket Hammam, where it would be very conspicuous. This 
was no doubt the mausoleum of Alexander Janneus — erected to his 
memory by his truckling herodian queen (Alexandra), and his dear 
friends, the Pharisees, in consequence of the ruse devised by the 
dying king. (Ant. xiii. xv : 5 ; Wars, v. vii : 3.) 

Monument of the High Priest John Hyrcanus. — This monu- 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 177 
Monument of Hyrcanus — of Simon — of the Fuller. 

mental structure is very definitely located by Josephus, in the south- 
western corner of Coenopolis, between the Second and Third Wall, 
and not far from the First or Old Wall, in the immediate vicinity of 
Hippicus and the Almond Pool. Being so far from the sepulchral 
grounds of the city, it was no doubt a mere cenotaph of the admi- 
ration-loving hierarch, designed to emblazon his good deeds — for we 
cannot for a moment conceive that the Jews would tolerate a se- 
pulchre anywhere near this great thoroughfare. (Wars v. vi : 2 ; 
and v. vii : 3, &c.) 

A Hospital, it would seem, was also built by this prince-hierarch. 

Monumental Pillars and Tablets oe Simon Maccabeus, H. 
P. — There were triplicates of these brazen tablets : one set of which 
was deposited in the public treasury ; another was conspicuously 
placed in the Temple ; and the third attached to pillars erected on 
Mount Zion, doubtless in a public and conspicuous place — probably 
near his palace. There is nothing definitely stated as to the size, 
shape, and architecture of these pillars ; but our conjectures may 
possibly assume a more definite and reliable character by referring 
to the account of the monumental structures he erected over the 
graves of his father, mother, and four brothers at Modin (1 Mac. 
xiii. 27-29) — " Simon also built a monument upon the sepulchre of 
his father and his brethren, and raised it aloft to the sight with 
hewn stone, before and behind ; moreover, he set up seven pyramids, 
one against another, for his father, his mother, and his four breth- 
ren, and in these he made cunning devices, about the which he set 
great pillars, and upon the pillars he made all their armor for a 
perpetual memory, and by the armor, ships, carved that they might 
be seen of all that sail on the sea." (Mac. xiv. 25-49.) 

Monument of the Fuller. — Whether this monument was erected 
by the fullers of Jerusalem in honor of their craft, or whether it 
perpetuates the name of an individual, we are not informed ; but as 
it is evidently located in the neighborhood of the Fullers' Field, 
where fulling operations were probably performed, in the vicinity 
of the Upper Gihon waters, it was no doubt connected with the full 
12 



178 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Absalom's Place. Monument of Annas. 

ing profession. (For Fullers' Field and Monument, see article.) 
(Wars v. iv : 2.) 

Absalom's Pillar, Place, or Hand. — We learn that " Absalom 
in his lifetime had taken and reared up for himself a pillar, which 
is in the king's dale : for he said, < I have no son to keep my name 
in remembrance :' and he called the pillar after his own name : and 
it is called unto this day Absalom's Place." (2 Sam. xviii. 18.) 
We are informed by Josephus that this marble pillar was two stadia 
from the city ; and from a Talmudic note we learn that the part of 
the royal dale in which it was erected was its lower portion, called 
Motsa. 

A comparison of these facts with those stated under the article 
Tantour JPharoun, which tradition confidently points out as Absa- 
lom's Pillar, will clearly evince their non-identity. Nor is there any 
other monument in all the King's Dale, nor anywhere else, answer- 
ing the description of this pillar. 

Monument of Ananus, or Annas, or Annanias, the high priest. — 
The late lamented Schultz has quite satisfactorily identified the 
sepulchre of that notorious high priest with the traditionary Acel- 
dama. It is fully described in the account of the Sepulchres of 
Hinnom. (Wars v. xii : 2.) 

There remains not a single ascertainable vestige of the monuments 
of Absalom, Herod, Alexander, Hyrcanus, Simon Maccabeus, or 
the Fullers : and though the underground work of those of Helena 
and Ananus may be reliably indicated, yet there is certainly not a 
single stone of their cippi, stela, or other superstructure remaining. 
Of course we are entirely ignorant of their architecture, execution, 
and general design. Their types, however, may be found amongst 
some of the well-preserved existing sepulchral monuments of Kedron; 
which, though they may not claim coeval origin with all of those 
just mentioned, were nevertheless their contemporaries in part, and 
may at least serve to give a sufficiently correct idea of their general 
character, design, and appearance. 



CHAPTER VIII. 

TOMBS AND SEPULCHRAL MONUMENTS. 

*' Strong vaulted cells where inartyr'd seers of old 
Far in the rocky walls of Zion sleep ; 
Green terraces, and arched fountains cold, 
Where lies the cypress shade so still and deep. 
Th' unearthly thoughts have passed from earth away, 
As fast as evening sunbeams from the sea. 
Thy footsteps all, in Zion's deep deoay, 
Were blotted from the holy ground. Yet dear 
Is every stone of hers. For Thou wert surely here." 

Well did the expatriated cup-bearer of Artaxerxes Longimanus, 
when soliciting the office of Tirshatha of Jerusalem, style the capital 
of his father-land " the place of his father's sepulchres" — for no 
expression could more forcibly characterize the Holy City than the 
term necropolis — its rocks being everywhere perforated with tombs, 
and its soil covered with grave-stones. Most ardently does every 
Jew still desire a final resting-place in the Holy City, and especially 
in the Yalley of Jehosaphat, not only because he dreads the under- 
ground passage (should he die abroad), but because he believes that 
the Lord will there finally plead for " his people" and judge the 
nations. It is a much cherished belief amongst the Jews that 
beneath the adjacent mountain all their dead are inhumed, and shall 
there be raised. "When the dead shall live again," say they, 
" Mount Olivet is to be rent in two, and all the dead of Israel shall 
come out thence : yea, those righteous persons, who died in captivity, 



180 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Sepulchres — Jewish and Roman. 

shall be rolled under the earth, and shall come forth under the 
Mount of Olivet" — so declare the Rabbins. 

These myriads of sepulchres, though originally designed, almost 
without exception, for the interment of the dead of Israel or their 
proselytes, have, in turn, served also for the sepulture of various 
other races subsequently occupying the devoted city — Pagan, Mos- 
lem, and Christian ; and not only have these rock-hewn sepulchres 
been tenanted by the Gentile dead, but by the living also. Thou- 
sands of Cenobites have had no other dwelling at Jerusalem than 
these cold, damp, dark habitations of the dead. And even down 
to the present day the Arabs of Siloam occupy, either wholly or in 
part, the catacombs of the Hill of Offence — though generally having 
a small anteroom in front of the tomb. And in the Turkish burial 
field, on the hill to the right of Damascus Gate, called Turbet es- 
Zahara, or Mount of Tombs, the order of nature is exactly reversed 
by these Troglodytes — the dead being above the living. 

This was, until recently, the quarantine station ; and many a 
Frank traveller has been compelled to share this revolting species 
of temporary inhumation with the Turks and Arabs. 

The process of quarrying and blasting is so much facilitated in 
cliffs perforated and intersected with tombs, that the sepulchres im- 
mediately around the city are rapidly disappearing before the hands 
of the mason, the dark habitation of the dead being thus converted 
into lighted residences for the living. 

On the east side of Olivet and the southern slope of Scopus, I 
discovered a few sepulchres precisely resembling some that I saw at 
Rome ; instead of large loculi for sarcophagi, mummies or corpses 
like the Jewish tombs, they have a great many small recesses in the 
sides of the room, barely large enough to contain a small cinerary 
urn or lachrymary vessel. But with this exception, nearly all the 
excavated rock tombs of Jerusalem are undoubtedly of Jewish origin. 
The Jewish sepulchres, although regulated by one general principle, 
yet differ very much in point of capacity, finish, and internal 
arrangement. Lazarus seems to have been interred in a mere natu- 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



181 



Construction of Sepulchres. 

ral cave with a small mouth — such as still abound in the vicinity of 
Jerusalem and Bethany. And the cave of Macpelah -was unques- 
tionably in its natural condition when first used for the burial of 
Sarah.* In the sides of some of these natural grots, loculi or 
roughly executed receptacles for the dead, are still to be found ; but 
it is probable that in the earlier periods of the Jewish age the 
corpses were often merely laid on the floor swaddled in the winding- 
sheet. Indeed there is abundant proof that such a burial has been 
practised in quite modern times. Usually, however, the Jewish 
sepulchre is a small room excavated in the solid rock and provided 
with several receptacles for the dead. They are occasionally pro- 
vided with an anteroom, and susceptible of unlimited enlargement, 
which is effected by adding room to room, literally, in the rear, on the 
sides, or below. A perpendicular surface is generally sought through 
which a small door is cut ; but the position of this door in reference 
to the room is very irregular — the workmen having evidently paid 
more regard to the grain and flaws of the rock than to the sym- 
metry of the room. 

The rock being much more homogeneous and seamless far down 
than it is near the surface, the sepulchre is occasionally excavated 
very deep ; and hence the entrance to such tombs is cut far below 
the general surface, and is reached by a narrow passage cut through 
the solid rock, either with or without steps, according to the degree 
of declination. The removal of the occluding rock from the door 
at the extremity of a steep passage of this kind would, of course, 
be no easy matter. And hence we can well sympathize with the 
women who were early at the sepulchre of the Lord on the morn- 
ing of the resurrection — so anxiously inquiring " who shall roll us 
away the stone from the door of the sepulchre" — for it was very 



* It is well remarked by Jahn (the great rank owned large subterranean recesses or 

archEeologist) that " the sepulchres of the caverns, either the work of nature or merely 

common people were, without doubt, mere artificial excavations of the earth cut out 

excavations in the earth, such as are common from rocks." 
at the present day. Persons of a higher 



182 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Tombs and fixtures. 

great. It is generally assumed — in order to account for the fact 
that the Apostles stooped down to see the " linen clothes and nap- 
kin" — that the tomb of Joseph had an anteroom; and that, the 
door of this intermediate wall being low, they were compelled to 
stoop in order to see into the tomb proper. But this, and all the 
other circumstances of the narrative, are perfectly explicable upon 
the supposition that the tomb was entered by an inclined passage. 
Such doors as were situated in the perpendicular cliff far above 
ground could not, of course, be closed by rolling a stone against 
them — neither could very large doorways resting upon the level of 
the ground — they, however, may have been closed by one or more 
stone plugs, by movable masonry, or even by a wooden door ; 
though no such fixtures are now to be seen. 

But though usually situated very near, if not below, the general 
surface of the ground, yet they were sometimes disposed to exalt 
them very high, as we frequently observe on the sides of high cliffs, 
as well as learn from the rebuke administered by Isaiah to Shebna 
the treasurer. (Is. xxii. 16.) Several tombs at Wady Farar are more 
than a hundred feet above the valley ; and in the " Mount of Tempta- 
tion" they are several hundred above the base of the mountain: it 
is not certainly known, however, that these were ever used as tombs. 
It is supposed by some that they are mere cells for eremite monks, 
excavated during the reign of the Franks in Palestine. 

The outer door is generally without the least ornament ; but in 
tombs of superior order is provided with jambs, lintels, and hand- 
somely sculptured pediments, and still more rarely with a portico 
and facade. A receptacle for water was also excavated within a 
few feet or yards of the door. Considerable diversity prevailed 
within, in relation to the arrangement of the loculi or various kinds 
of receptacles for the individual corpses. They are generally sim- 
ple rectangular cavities, but sometimes arched — seven or eight feet 
in length, and two or three in breadth and height, penetrating into 
the rock their entire length endwise ; in other cases, however, they 
are excavated laterally, and occasionally a shallow arch or narrow 



JERUSALEM — 



AS IT WAS. 



183 



Internal arrangements. 

vault is excavated over them, the corpse or sarcophagus in the 
former case being laid perpendicular to the side of the room, and 
in the latter parallel to it ; and this undoubtedly was the arrange- 
ment of the tomb of Joseph of Arimathea. Several tiers are some- 
times found ; but generally there is only one series. Small niches, 
scarcely large enough to hold a cranium, are also occasionally to be 
found executed in various parts of the sepulchres. Have these 
been, in after ages, made by the Romans to receive the urn contain- 
ing their ashes ? Or would the proud Roman condescend to store 
away his ashes in a sepulchre once defiled by the remains of the 
despised Jew ? It is conjectured by some that their only object was 
to contain a lamp ; by others, incense, water, or treasure. 

These various arrangements will be better understood by refer- 
ence to the illustrative plans, elevations, and sections. That nearly 
all these sepulchres are Jewish is conclusively shown by the general 
resemblance borne to a tomb I discovered about two miles north of 
Jerusalem, most unequivocally Jewish, which it will be well to figure 
and describe as the true type of Jewish sepulchral architecture. 




JEWISH TOMB AT EL-MESS AHXEY. 



184 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Newly discovered Jewish Tomb at el-Messahney. 

Though hewn out of the solid rock, the characteristic Jewish rebate- 
ment, like that of the ancient temple wall, was so boldly executed 
that much of it is as sharp and perfect as though chiselled but yes- 
terday. Much of the portion of rock containing the entablature 
has long since fallen and disappeared ; but several feet of it remain 
in such a fine state of preservation that its minutest details are still 
observable. Though undoubtedly of the highest antiquity, there is 
no piece of ancient architecture about Jerusalem in a better state 
of preservation than this. It has been suggested by my friend Dr. 
Stuart of Scotland, now missionary at Leghorn, that it was the place 
of sepulture used by the high priests prior to the destruction of the 
sacerdotal city of Nob by King Saul. And if the style of archi- 
tecture can be referred to so remote a period, it would be difficult to 
withhold concurrence from such an opinion. Certain it is that this 
city was situated in this immediate vicinity — for the first glimpse of 
Jerusalem is caught from the road on the hill just above, leading 
from Geba, Gibeah, &c, just where we may naturally suppose the 
haughty Assyrian monarch would first " shake his hand against the 
mount of the Daughter of Zion, the hill of Jerusalem, as he 
remained at Nob that day." (Is. x. 32.) The internal construc- 
tion and general style of execution seem also to favor the idea that 
it was designed for the highest dignitaries either of church or state ; 
and Mount Zion being the appointed site of the Tombs of the Kings, 
this may have been selected as a final resting-place for the sacerdo- 
tal line prior to the period of the monarchy. It is observed that 
the second loculus on the right occupies more than twice as much 
space as any other ; a circumstance that may well have constituted 
it the place of honor for the repose of the last deceased high priest. 
The door is not only much larger than usual, but is arched — still so 
low, however, that it is necessary to stoop considerably either to 
enter or see far into it — as is generally, but by no means universally 
the case. It differs also from other tombs in having a window — 
(not seen in the cut — being buried beneath the rubbish). Was this 
opening designed for ventilation, or the admission of sufficient light 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



185 



Dwellers in the Tombs. 

to display the corpse laid out in state in the large loculus ? This 
tomb is now used during the winter as a lodgment for a goat-herd 
and his flock, and there are numerous others all around frequently 
put in requisition by the Arabs for the same purpose ; and on seeing 
the Fellahin coming out of them, one is forcibly reminded of the " man 
coming out of the tombs with an unclean spirit, having his dwelling 
among the tombs." And on coming in contact with one of these 
Fellahin he will be found possessed of a spirit about as unclean, and 
with almost literally a legion of evil-spirited fleas, of which he may 
soon be in great measure exorcised at your expense, and you set a 
capering clown these steep places like the swine of Gadara. 




PLAN OF EL-MESS AHNEY TOMB. 



The seventeen loculi of this^sepulchre all enter the walls endwise, 
and not laterally as in many others. The dimensions will be under- 
stood at once on inspection of the annexed plan. The order of 
architecture is, undoubtedly, Roman Doric ; and is rather unfavor- 
able to its very high antiquity, except upon the supposition of sub- 
sequent remodelling. This tomb is situated at the upper end of 
extensive foundations and ruins called El-Messahney, where Jewish 
rocks are to be found three and a quarter feet long, and portions of 



186 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Tombs of the Judges. 

columns three and a half in diameter, evidencing the former exist- 
ence of a very considerable city. 




Tombs of the Judges. — The accompanying vertical section and 
elevation of the north side of the Tombs of the Judges (arbitrarily 
so called), will still farther illustrate the architecture of Jewish 
sepulchral structures. Over the outer door A is a richly sculptured 
Grecian pediment mounted on handsome mouldings. A very richly 
executed doorway, B, leads from the vestibule or ante-room C into 
the main room, on the north side of which are seen thirteen loculi con- 
tained in two tiers. In front of three pairs of the upper row are three 
arches, broad enough to contain a sarcophagus or swarthed corpse, 
at right angles to the others and parallel to the wall. Another door, 
D, gives entrance into another room on the same story, exhibiting 
nine repositories, somewhat different from the others. In the north- 
east corner of the main room is a stairway leading down to a room 
beneath the last-mentioned loculi, containing ten or twelve receptacles 
still somewhat different from the foregoing. And in the south-west 
corner of the large room is a stairway leading down into an unfinished 
apartment. There are only sixty places for the repose of the dead 
in this catacomb, although it wears its present appellation in honor 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



187 



Tomb of Helena. 

of the Jewish Sanhedrim, that was composed of seventy-two senators, 
elders or judges : but this tradition is comparatively modern, and 
entitled to no credence whatever. It was at one time called " Tombs 
of the Prophets," a title now generally applied to an extensive cata- 
comb on Mount Olivet. 

The Tomb of Helena is an object so interesting in itself and of 
such importance in a topographical point of view, that the ascertain- 
ment of its position is worthy of special consideration. Queen 
Helena, the widow and sister of Monobasus, king of the Adiabe- 
nians, influenced by religious considerations on becoming a convert 
to the Jewish faith (which her son Izates, who succeeded to the 
throne, had also embraced), removed to Jerusalem just before the 
occurrence of that great dearth foretold by Agabus (Acts xi. 28), 
which came to pass in the days of Claudius Csesar, about A. D. 44. 
It would appear from the 20th book of the "Antiquities" that 
during her residence in the Holy City she built for herself a sepul- 
chre, in accordance with the custom of the age ; but on being informed 
of the death of Izates she returned to Adiabene, and there died 
soon after her arrival. Monobasus (the 2d), however, who had now 
ascended the throne, " sent her bones as well as those of Izates his 
brother to Jerusalem, and gave orders that they should be buried at 
the pyramids which his mother had erected: they were three in 
number, and distant no more than three furlongs from the City of 
Jerusalem." "We learn from the "Wars" (v. iv : 2) that these 
monuments were on the north of the city, somewhere in the region 
between Psephinos and the "Sepulchral Caverns of the Kings." 
And from the 2d section of the 2d chapter, that they were also oppo- 
site the " Womens' Towers," somewhere near the road by which 
Titus approached the city ; and furthermore (chap. iii. section 3), 
that they were between these towers and Titus's camp on Scopus. 
Jerome informs us that this mausoleum of Helena lay on the left (east) 
of Paula as she approached the city, apparently from the north. 
Very little can be inferred from this — for should it be incidentally 
mentioned that the custom house of Jerusalem was on the left of a 



188 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Tomb of Helena not heretofore identified. 

traveller who entered the city on a certain occasion, it would be 
concluded that the traveller approached the city either by the Jaffa 
or Bethlehem road — whereas travellers even from Damascus and the 
Jordan, if they have baggage, are compelled to enter Jaffa Gate, and 
thus leave it on the left on entering that gate. And Pausanias 
relates that » the door of this sepulchre (of wonderful work) was 
manufactured of marble, as also the other parts of the sepulchre ; 
which, on a certain hour of a certain day of the year, is opened by 
the concealed operation of certain machinery, &c, closing again 
after a short time, and had one tried to open it at another time, 
he must first have broken it with violence." These are all the data, 
as yet furnished by the ransacked folios of antiquity, for making 
out the site of this interesting locality. The opinions of Pococke, 
Chateaubriand, Clarke, Robinson, and other weighty authorities, are 
cited in favor of the supposition that these monuments and the 
Tombs of the Kings are identical. But the very term by which 
Josephus expresses their construction, seems flatly to contradict such 
a conclusion : and indicates at least that, unlike Kubr el-Moluk, the 
principal structure of her monuments was above ground, for no 
expression could be more inappropriate than to say that these "royal 
caverns" were "erected" — the term used in relation to Helena's 
sepulchre. The " door" of her sepulchre is also said to have been 
made of the same material composing the remainder of the structure — 
which is by no means the case with the Tombs of the Kings. More- 
over this material is said (in the Latin version of the account) to be 
marble* — by which of course cannot be meant the coarse limestone 
composing the Tombs of the Kings — but evidently in contradistinc- 
tion from this native rock. Instead of being deeply sunken in the 
earth like the Tombs of the Kings, these monuments would appear 
to have been mainly if not entirely constructed above ground ; and 
besides, Pausanias does not speak of them as a series of tombs but 
as a single tomb.f The Adiabenian style of sepulchral architecture 



* " Ostium fabricatum est e marmore, uti cseterae sepulchri partes." 
f TcKpos. 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 189 
Helena's Tomb not identical with Kubr el-Moluk. 

was probably as diverse from that of the Jewish as were their 
respective religions ; and hence the notoriety of this exotic sepulchre 
In pyramids thus constructed of marble, high and dry, we may con 
ceive of machinery that would remain in good order a considerable 
length of time ; but, deeply immured in the " misty vapors" of this 
damp subterranean dungeon of the dead, what species of mechanism 
could preserve its integrity a single moon ? And to recognise in 
the plain pannelled doors of the interior of the Tombs of the Kings, 
or the circular door without, the door of wonderful work described 
by the Greek writer — even making the most liberal allowance for 
Oriental hyperbole — is truly more wonderful than the wonderful 
door itself! 

If it could be established (as assumed) that the present Tel el- 
Ful is the " Gabaa" of St. Jerome, and was the place from which 
Lady Paula came last and directly, previously to entering Jerusa- 
lem, and that " the great northern road at present is unquestionably 
the same that it formerly was," then the probability of identity 
between Helena's Monuments and the Tombs of the Kings "would 
be greatly increased." But to make these assertions under the 
actual state of the case savors somewhat of begging the question : 
for a much better road could have been made higher up, where the 
Kedron Valley, instead of being narrow and rapidly declivitous, 
expands into a plain : and if the present Jeba is " Gabaa," or if St. 
Paula had turned aside to visit some other very interesting locali- 
ties north of Jerusalem, then the Tomb of Helena would have occu- 
pied a site far different from that assigned it by these authors. 
There is no evidence whatever that the present road was in exist- 
ence at that day ; and, unquestionably, if a good northern road had 
been desired from that part of the city, it would have been located 
much higher up, and most eligibly, just where the present road to 
Mizpah and Gibeon crosses the valley. After oft-repeated exami- 
nation and protracted consideration of the subject, I can come to 
no other conclusion than that these monuments were situated, as 
marked in the map of Ancient Jerusalem, a short distance to the 



190 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Identity of Helena's Tomb suggested. 

right of the present Mizpah road, by way of the Tombs of the 
Judges. There is quite a picturesque situation for a mausolean 
structure on a rocky hill in the Valley of Kedron, or Jehosaphat, 
as it is generally called, five or six hundred yards from Ashmound, 
or Tel el-Massabin ; in which is a tomb containing two or three 
rooms of small dimensions. But the tomb having the strongest 
claim to be regarded as Helena's, is one situated a short distance 
east of the valley, about one hundred yards north of the present 
Nablous road — of which the following is a plan. There are loose 

rocks and rubbish above it, clearly indi- 
cating the existence of a former building ; 
and a pair of steps in the north-west 
corner of the vestibule, proving the 
existence of a communication between 
the sepulchre and the building by which 
it was crowned. True, it is situated to 
the right or west of the present road 
leading from Tel el-Ful — the road by 
which it is supposed St. Paula approached 
the city ; but were the road located to 
the best advantage, it would fall about 
one hundred yards to the left or east of 
plan of tomb-supposed to be sucn roa a. Its distance from Ashmound 

queen Helena's. . . 

— through which there are some indica- 
tions that the northern wall formerly ran — is a little upwards of six 
hundred yards — just about three furlongs. There are six or eight 
loculi in this sepulchre, three of which are much superior to the 
others : were these for Helena, Izates, and Grapte ? The main 
outer entrance from the court was probably closed and secured on 
the interior ; and the tomb could then only be opened by descending 
through the stairway from above. May not this passage have termi- 
nated in one of the pyramids, or the substruction on which all three 
were sustained ? Be this as it may, all the indications of the case 
are met in this location. But, besides all this, was the construction 




JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



191 



Kubr el-Moluk. Tombs of the Kings. 

of such an extensive series of elegant rooms as those of Kubr 
Moluk within the compass of possibility during the space of time 
necessarily so limited by the circumstances of the case ? 

Tombs or the Kings — Kubr el-Moluk — Kubr es-Sultan. — 
A more costly and imposing structure than either of those just 
noticed, and indeed more magnificent than any others about the Holy 
City, is that which, in consequence of this superiority, has secured 
for itself the title of "Tombs of the Kings," according to ecclesi- 
astic tradition — and its equivalent in the legends of the Moslem 
" Kubr es-Sultan." It is situated just half a mile north of Damas- 
cus Gate, on the west side of a sunken court, about 90 feet square 
and upwards of 20 feet deep. These finely-constructed catacombs 
are entered through a splendid, but now much decayed and defaced, 
portico or portal and hall, on its western side, 13J feet high and 
28J- wide. Near its south-western corner is a door beneath the 
level of the floor, 2J feet broad, and less than 3 feet high, opening 
into an anteroom, about 19 feet square. In the western side of 
this room is a door leading into another room 13J feet square, having 
in it about a dozen receptacles for the dead, and a passage leading 
by a stairway into a room 10 X 12, situated a story lower. There 
are two rooms entered from the south side of the anteroom or hall, 
each having half a dozen loculi ; and from the north side of the 
westernmost one is a flight of steps conducting to another room in 
the lower story 10 feet square. The loculi in each of these lower 
rooms and in some other parts of these tombs are parallel to the 
wall, or in other words present their side, being accessible through- 
out, but most of them are perpendicular to the wall, and of course 
accessible only at one extremity. This is the only tomb certainly 
known to have contained sarcophagi, many richly carved fragments 
of which are strewn about the rooms and court. But the only one 
known to be in existence is that in the Mekhemeh or Council House 
of Jerusalem, which supplies the Divan of Jerusalem EfFendis with 
drinking water ! Sic transit gloria mundi ! Alas ! poor Yorick ! ! 
To some of these loculi are attached, either at their extremities or 



192 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Tombs of the Kings. 

sides, other small receptacles. Many large pieces of richly pan- 
nelled stone doors lie scattered about the rooms. The jambs of the 
interior doorways have such an inclination that the ponderous doors 
even with all the friction of mortice and tenon hinge, would always 
close from the force of gravity, but the outer door was closed by a 
contrivance so unique as to deserve a detailed account. Imme- 




KUBR MOLUK — TOMBS OF THE KINGS. 



diately in front of the doorway (the top of which is more than a 
foot below the floor of the porch), is a deep trench, commencing a 
foot or two west of the door, and extending three or four yards 
along the wall eastward. The bottom of this trench is a short dis- 
tance below the sill of the door, and is probably an inclined plane. 
Along this channel a large thick stone disk traverses, fitting very 
accurately against its western end, which is made concave, so as to 
be exactly conformed to the convexity of this large millstone-like 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 193 
Singular door. 

disk, when rolled to that end — thus closing the doorway most effectu- 
ally. In order to introduce this circular door in situ, it was neces- 
sary originally to make an opening into this channel, which was 
done at its east end, and afterwards sealed (hermetically, no doubt) 
by a slab, four and three-fourths feet long, two and a half broad, and 
more than half a foot in thickness. Two or three feet in advance 
of this channel was a subterranean (or rather subrupean) passage 
to its west extremity. These arrangements were all formerly ex- 
cluded from view by the floor of the porch (now broken away), and 
the smaller inner doorway (closed by the stone disk) was approached 
by a passage eight or ten feet long, whose mouth was entered from 
a circular excavation eight feet in diameter, and five or six in depth. 
This basin was probably kept well supplied with water, for which 
perhaps the large tank just without the court (at the foot of the in- 
clined plane) was provided, except when the sepulchre was opened ; 
and the object of the L shaped passage to the west end of the door- 
way track was to scotch the door. The whole of this narrow pas- 
sage may also have been blocked up with masonry, with a view of 
rendering access the more tedious and difficult. These various con- 
trivances seem undoubtedly to have been designed specially for the 
security of the sepulchre, by rendering access as difficult, uncertain, 
and tardy as possible. Few would even suspect the true and only 
way of access into the interior, and fewer still attempt an entrance I 
This contrivance may assist us in understanding the query in rela- 
tion to the entrance of the Holy Sepulchre, « Who shall roll us 
away the stone from the door of the sepulchre ?" Though it would 
be equally applicable to several other arrangements of the door. 
The way into this house of Death — strangely enough — thus becomes 
an apt emblem of the way to Life Eternal — " for straight is the gate 
and narrow is the way which leadeth unto life, and few there be that 
find it." 

The portal was once sustained, or rather ornamented, by two pil- 
lars and two pilasters — mere vestiges of which, however, now re- 
main ; and the perpendicular surface of rock over the portal was 
is 



194 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Tombs of Kings. 

so highly adorned with classic mouldings, clusters of grapes and 
wreaths of flowers, as to leave its age and style of architecture alto- 
gether a matter of fanciful speculation. In the absence of a more 
appropriate epithet, its style of architecture may well be termed 
-< Romanized Hebro-Grecian." 




PLAN OP TOMBS OP KINGS. 



Few subjects connected with the archaeology of Jerusalem have 
excited more discussion than these elegant catacombs ; but that the 
appellation by which they are now generally known (Tomb of the 
Kings of Judah) is an egregious misnomer, is most evident to every 
Bible reader that knows the relative locality of this place and Mount 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 195 
Conflicting opinions about the Tombs of the Kings. 

Zion. For we are repeatedly informed that " the sepulchre of the 
kings of Judah," where the kings of Judah were all buried (except 
five*), was in the city of David (about one mile distant from the so 
called " Tombs of the Kings). And yet — notwithstanding the ex- 
press authority of Nehemiah (iii. 16) for locating them in that part of 
the city of David containing the royal sepulchres between the Pool of 
Siloam and the House of the Mighty, near " unto the stairs that go 
down from the city of David," — a learned and elegant French writer 
is confident that he has succeeded in establishing the identity of the 
sepulchres of the kings of Judah with the present so called Tombs 
of the Kings ! ! ! They are regarded by one of the most distin- 
guished Biblical antiquarians and Oriental scholars living, as the 
celebrated sepulchre of Helena, queen of Adiabene ; but this is 
undoubtedly a mistake, for he relies mainly upon what Pausanias 
says about the door of Helena's tomb — that it " was of the same 
rock, and was so contrived that it could only be opened when the 
returning year brought around a particular day and hour ;" but this 
conjecture is abundantly disproved by what has been said in relation 
to its doors, as well interior as outer, and especially when it is re- 
membered that the doors are made of a r*ock quite differing from 
that of the catacombs, and have no appearance of any attachment 
of mechanism. And besides, what would this widowed old lady 
want with a sepulchre containing about thirty loculi, even if her son, 
niece, and five grandsons, sent to Jerusalem by Izates to be edu- 
cated, were also interred with her ? Did we not know that some of 
the Maecabean family were buried at Modin, and were constrained 
thence to infer that all of this royal line were buried in that city, 
we might assign this tomb to them. But though it cannot well be 
ascribed to them, may it not belong to the next succeeding dynasty ? 



* Jehorani was " buried in the City of 
David, but not in the sepulchres of the 
kings." (2 Ch. xxi. 20.) Uzziah the leper 
was " buried with his fathers in the field of 
the burial which belongeth to the kings." 



(2 Ch. xxvi 23.) 2 Ch. xxviii. 27, Manasseh 
" was buried in the garden of his own house, 
in the garden of Uzziah; and Ammon his 
son was buried in the same place." (2 Kings 
xxi. 18, 26.) 



196 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Kubr el-Moluk. ' The Sepulchral Caverns of the Kings. 

Herod the Great, we are informed, was buried at Herodium ; but it 
is quite questionable whether any of his family would like to lie 
beside him, even in death ! May not these tombs, then, have been 
the place of interment for the remainder of the Herodian family? 
The " Monuments of Herod" — as elsewhere suggested — were not 
sepulchral structures, but most probably monumental erections, com- 
memorative of some special act of his magnificent reign. There are 
several other tombs east of this, of somewhat similar character, but 
of far inferior workmanship and extent. Are these, together with 
"Kubr el-Moluk," what Josephus styles the "Sepulchral Caverns 
of the Kings" ? Or does that appellation belong alone to Kubr el- 
Moluk ? 

"The Sepulchral Caverns of the Kings." — These royal ex- 
cavations, which Josephus incidentally mentions in describing the 
location of the northern portion of the Agrippan Wall (W. v. iv : 
2), were situated on the north of the city ; but whether they were 
included or excluded by the wall is not asserted. But if the wall 
was located in reference to the best position for defensive purposes, 
and the Royal Caverns be indeed identical with Kubrel-Moluk, then 
would they necessarily fall within the enclosure. There are one or 
two other large sepulchral excavations a short distance east of this, 
but none of them materially near the city ; we are, therefore, con- 
strained to look for them in this immediate neighborhood. And as 
Kubr el-Moluk amply fulfils all the indications of the case, and there 
are no other structures in all that neighborhood to which the condi- 
tions are at all applicable, we are shut up to the conclusion that in 
this elegant series of excavated chambers we have " the Sepulchral 
Caverns of the Kings" — the final resting-place of all the Herodian 
dynasty, except the " great" monster himself, as above intimated — 
a supposition considerably strengthened by their comparative fresh- 
ness and fine state of preservation. (See article Kubr el-Moluk.) 

« The Sepulchres of the Kings of Judah" were situated with- 
in the city of Jerusalem, according to Josephus, and in the southern 
portion of it, called Mount Zion or the City of David, according 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 107. 

. ipf 

Sepulchres of the Kings of Judah. David's Sepulchre. 

to the sacred Scriptures. These sepulchres were no doubt hewed in 
the rock beneath the "field of the burial which belonged to the kings." 
(2 dir. xxi. 20 ; xxvi. 23 ; xxviii. 27.) There were also various other 
sepulchres upon Mount Zion in which the kings of Israel were in- 
terred — but only in dishonor. There are several sepulchres on the 
southern and eastern slopes of Zion in very good preservation, evi- 
dently far within the circuit of the ancient wall. May not these be 
the tombs of those kings who were denied interment within the 
royal sepulchres of Zion, but were yet suffered to be buried on 
Mount Zion in their own gardens — Jehoram, Ahaz, Manasseh, and 
Ammon ? It is evident from the whole tenor of Jewish history and 
polity, that only such privileged persons as kings, and probably high 
priests exercising royal functions, enjoyed the distinction of city 
burial. May not the traditional tomb of David be one of the most 
splendid amongst the tombs of these ostracised kings or princely 
hierarchs ? For, although Jewish, Christian, and Moslem tradition 
all most confidently depose in behalf of the present site, yet most 
evident is it from Nehemiah's account of the reedification of the 
wall (iii.), that David's sepulchre, instead of being on the very sum- 
mit of Zion, was on its eastern declivity, not far from the middle 
wall. Its locality seems to have been well known at the introduc- 
tion of the Christian era (Acts ii. 29) ; but it is highly probable 
that even if the great veneration they entertained for their revered 
prophet-king would not lead them to conceal the royal sepulchres 
with immense masses of rubbish before the capture of the city by 
Titus, the process would soon be accomplished by the elements of 
nature in such a situation. The " Sepulchres of the Kings" were, 
no doubt, a series of excavations entered by one door only — like 
that of the Judges, Kubr el-Moluk, &c. — and could, therefore, be 
easily and effectually concealed by a bank of earth. 

" The Sepulchre of David" was merely one room, with possibly a 
suite of treasury vaults, in the foregoing royal sepulchres. (See 
article above ; and for traditional tomb of David, see article Neby 
Baud.) 



198 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Tomb of Simon. Tomb of the Prophets. 

Sepulchre of Simon the Just, the Son of Onias. — This tra- 
ditionary tomb is on the eastern side of the valley of the Kedron. 
north-east of the Tombs of the Kings, and is much visited by pil- 
grims — abundant evidence of which is seen in the Hebrew inscrip- 
tions written on the walls. It is quite an extensive tomb, but in no 
way remarkable (except for its large door) ; and, like all other tombs 
with accessible doorways, is used most of the year as a sheep-cote. 

Sepulchres of various kinds are very numerous on both sides of 
the valley all the way down to Hinnom. But perhaps there are 
none worthy of special notice nearer than the labyrinthian one, on 
the slope of Olivet, named both of the Prophets and Apostles ; though 
there are several on each side, and especially around the cove of 
the Kedron, I venture to identify with the " Ashes Valley," that 
are very extensive. 




TOMBS OF THE PROPHETS. 



Tombs of the Prophets. — A sufficiently correct idea of this 
structure, called Tombs of the Prophets or Apostles (for they are 
known under both designations, and are doubtless entitled as well 
to the one as the other), may be had by inspecting the small plan on 
the map, in connexion with the accompanying view of the interior. 
The excavations extend about twenty-eight yards from north to 
south, and thirty or forty from east to west ; but upwards of fifty 



JERUSALEM— AS IT WAS. 199 
Church of the Virgin. Tombs of Zechariah, James, and Absalom. 

yards measured on the circuit of the outer semicircular range. 
About thirty loculi are now accessible ; but several diverging pass- 
ages being too much choked by rubbish to be explored, there may 
be many more according to the assertion of several ancient authors. 
Some regard these catacombs as the tombs of the Prophets, others 
as those of the Apostles — though certainly rather more capacious 
and stylish than either necessity or consistency would require for 
the Galilean fisherman and the Tarsan tentmaker — while others 
connect them with the idolatrous services of Baal, owing to the fan- 
cied resemblance of the large dome-shaped anteroom to a supposed 
furnace where the "offering of the dead" may have been eaten. 
But surely a far more plausible solution of the enigma of their 
hsitory would be their assignment to the Jewish hierarchy — being 
so conspicuously situated opposite the Temple. Lord Nugent sug- 
gests that they may have belonged to the School of the Prophets 
in Jerusalem. 

The ground plans of the Church and Sepulchre of the Virgin Mary, 
and the tombs of James the Less, of the Prophets and of Jehosaphat 
are delineated with sufficient precision on the large map of Modern 
Jerusalem to give a correct idea of their extent, form, and general 
arrangement. St. Mary is said by tradition to have been buried 
in the cruciform portion of the tomb called the " Church of the 
Virgin Mary :" higher up the long flight of sixty-five steps by which 
access is had to this deep sepulchral church, the traveller is shown 
the crypts of St. Anna, Joseph, and Joachim. But quis credat ? — 
Judeus Apella? JVon ille ! 

The Monumental Structures dedicated to Jehosaphat, James, 
and Zechariah, are situated in the narrow part of the Kedron, rather 
less than two hundred yards from the east wall of the Temple, nearly 
opposite its south-eastern corner, and just at the base of Mount Olivet. 
The lower one, called, in the current traditionary nomenclature of 
Jerusalem^ « Zechariah's Tomb" — is about twelve or thirteen yards 
south of the "Tomb of St. James," and the upper one, called 
"Absalom's Pillar," is about forty steps north of that sepulchre. 



200 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Zechariah's Tomb, Tantour Pharoun. 

Tomb of Zechamas (so called) is a true monolith ; and is isolated 
from the rock that surrounds it on three sides by a passage, several 
yards wide. Its general appearance at present is that of a four- 
sided pyramid, of equal base and height, mounted on a cube of about 
twenty feet each way ; but at least one-fourth of its lower portion 
is concealed from sight by accumulated earth, containing Hebrew 
graves ; and thousands of names are engraved upon its sides in 
Hebrew characters. No entrance being perceptible in any direction, 
it is supposed to be solid. Beautiful Ionic capitals crown the pillars 
and pilasters. The two middle pillars on each side are half round ; 
two pilasters meeting at the corners give the appearance of massive 
square pillars ; and on each side of the pilasters are quarter-round 
pillars. The effect is pleasing ; and although the architecture is by 
no means imposing, the monument is impressive in the highest 
degree. 

Tantour Pharoun — Absalom's Pillar. — This monumental pil- 
lar is monolithic as high as the cornice, and is detached from the 
surrounding ledge of Olivet just as Zechariah's. Its entire height 
does not appear — a fourth of it probably being concealed by accu- 
mulated stones and rubbish. Its present ascertainable height is 
about fifty feet, and its breadth about twenty-three or twenty-four. 
It exactly resembles Zechariah's in the character and disposition of 
the pillars and pilasters with which it is ornamented, and is there- 
fore referable to the same age. The triglyphs, guttse, and other 
ornaments of the entablature are clearly Doric, while the capitals 
are Ionic. There is a concavity both in the living rock and the 
superstructure of masonry : that below is about eight feet square, 
with arched recesses on the south and west, and handsomely orna- 
mented ceiling ; but that extending upward in the masonry about 
twenty feet, is very irregularly shaped, and apparently unfinished. 
This vacuity was only entered originally on the east side, through a 
very low and narrow doorway above the cornice, opening to a short 
flight of steps ; but in the lapse of ages another has been effected on 
the west by the pious indignation of Moslems, Jews, and Christians, 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 201 
Absalom's Pillar. 

who never pass this monument without testifying their detestation of 
Absalom's wicked conduct, by casting a stone at his supposed resting- 
place. For tradition unhesitatingly points out this as the " pillar" 
mentioned in the 18th verse of the 18th chapter of 2 Samuel — that 
Absalom had taken and reared up for himself, which is in the King's 
Dale; and it is called unto this day Absalom's Place. But we 
learn from Josephus that the monument called Absalom's Place or 
Hand was constructed of marble, and that this " marble pillar" stood 
two furlongs from the city. Now the monument just described could 
not have been more than half that distance from the city when there 
was a wall in that quarter ; for it is rather less than two stadia from 
the Temple Wall. But even were it situated at the required dis- 
tance from the city, it could not still be recognised as Absalom's 
Pillar ; for, instead of being constructed of marble, it consists of the 
common limestone of the country. Nor has the rapacity of Jeru- 
salem's ferocious despoilers spared a single marble structure in all 
the city or its borders ! We learn, moreover, from Jewish writers, 
that this monument was situated in Motsa, lower down. Absalom's 
Pillar is therefore now nowhere to be found. And although there 
is sufficient space within for a corpse, yet there is no special sepul- 
chral arrangement, nor could a sarcophagus ever have been intro- 
duced through the only opening that appears to have been left in 
it. It is therefore probable that this structure, as well as that of 
Zecharias, was merely designed as a cenotaph. They have been 
arbitrarily named at various times in honor of Hezekiah, Uzziah, 
Isaiah, Jehosaphat, Simon the Just, &c. But it is very evident, — 
whether a judgment be formed from the order and embellishments 
of their architecture, or their fine state of preservation, — that this 
structure can scarcely date back so far as the age of David. For, 
with the exception of injuries inflicted by the ruthless hand of man, 
their finest embellishments are in a very good state of preservation, 
and present no such marks of antiquity as would justify their refer- 
ence to so remote an era. If erected by Absalom, this monument 
has resisted the decomposing influences of the cold, heat, and damp 



202 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Tombs of Absalom and Jehosaphat. 

of nearly three thousand years ! There is a strange and puzzling ad- 
mixture of the Greek and the Egyptian styles about both these monu- 
ments, and also one or two lower down, by Silwan village, that defies 
alike the analytic powers of the architect and the antiquary ; but most 
observers would probably be brought by a critical examination of 
the subject to the conclusion that they cannot long antedate the 
Christian era, and probably belong to the Herodian age of Jewish 
history. 

Few perhaps would widely dissent from the opinion expressed in 
the following extract from the Biblical Researches — than the 
authors of which none are better qualified to form a correct judg- 
ment. « The intermingling of the Greek orders, and a spice of the 
massive Egyptian taste, which are visible in these monuments, serve 
also to show that they belong to a late period of the Greek and 
Roman art ; and especially to that style of mingled Greek and 
Egyptian which prevailed in the Oriental provinces of the Roman 
Empire. The chief seat of this style was perhaps at Petra ; where 
it still appears in much of its pristine character in the very remark- 
able excavations of Wady Musa. When we visited that place, some 
weeks afterwards, we were much struck at finding there several iso- 
lated monuments, the counterparts of the monolithic tombs in the 
Valley of Jehosaphat. The architectural remains of Petra are not 
held, I believe, to be in general older than the Christian era ; nor 
is there any reason to suppose that the Jewish monuments in ques- 
tion are of an earlier date. Indeed, if they existed prior to the 
destruction of Jerusalem, they are probably to be referred to the 
times of the Herods ; who themselves were of Idumean descent, 
and maintained an intercourse between Petra and Jerusalem. In 
that age too, as we know, other foreigners of rank repaired to Jeru- 
salem and erected for themselves mansions and sepulchres. It 
would not, therefore, be difficult to account in this way for the 
resemblance between these monuments and those of Petra." (i. 
521.) 

The Tomb of Jehosaphat is entered through a door in the norths 



JERUSALEM 



— AS IT WAS. 



203 



Tomb of Jehosaphat. Cave of Pelagius. 

east corner of the passage that isolates the pillar of Absalom, over 
which is a beautiful and elaborately carved pediment. Availing of 
a favorable opportunity, I succeeded in exploring this secluded 
mansion of the dead throughout, but, instead of finding ancient 
manuscripts (as I had been led to entertain the hope of doing), my 
pains were only rewarded by a room full of rotten leather parings, 
and a hecatomb of skeletons — Jewish, no doubt, as the Jews lay 
special claim to this sepulchre, and very jealously guard it. Tradi- 
tion and the Bible are directly at variance in relation to the sepul- 
chre of good King Jehosaphat ; the one contending that this is his 
identical tomb, and the other that "he was buried with his fathers 
in the City of David." (2 Chr. xxi. 1.) And yet there are some 
that halt between the two opinions ! And stranger still, others who 
insist upon it that we are bound to believe "infallible tradition!" 
Surely, "full well do such reject the word of the Lord, that they 
may keep their own tradition." 

The main entrance to the Tomb of St. James is from the court 
of Zechariah's obeliscal monument ; but there is also a stairway 
from above by which it may be entered. It is contended by some 
of the advocates of tradition that it is not really his sepulchre, but 
merely the place of his temporary retreat after the Messiah's cruci- 
fixion, where " he swore he would no more eat bread till he should 
see his Lord risen;" and it is added — "on the third day our 
Lord, returning from his triumph over hell, showed himself to James, 
saying, Arise, James, and eat, for I have now risen from the dead." 
The "looker on" in Zion, will delight to linger in this picturesque 
portico, if not too much annoyed by the herds of goats and sheep 
sheltered here — or, still worse, by the legions of parasites of the 
flocks, with which the sepulchre teems. 

Under certain circumstances it may be worth while climbing the 
mountain to take a hasty peep at a large stone sarcophagus in the 
" Cave of St. Pelagius," beneath the dome cro wning the Mosque of 
Jebl Tur, in a basement story at the south-west corner. It is 
believed by Oriental Christians to have contained the remains of 



204 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Huldah's Tomb. Earth Grave-Yards. 

Margarita the famous courtesan of Antioch, who, on conversion to 
Christianity, came and ended her days here as a monk — or as others 
assert — as a nun, under the assumed name of Pelagia. The Jews, 
however, claim it as the Tomb of Huldah the prophetess ; and the 
Muhammedans also venerate it as the "narrow house" of one of their 
Santons or Saints. An almost effaced inscription written in very 
old and ill-shaped Greek letters on a tablet upon the rock bids 
Aletial (which is probably a veiled name for the Magdalen) to 
" take courage !" The Muhammedans set a very high estimate upon 
a piece of precious stone serving as lintel of the entrance door, and 
although it appears to be nothing more than a highly polished block 
of a jaspery kind of agate, may once have been entitled (as it is 
now esteemed by its possessors) a « precious stone." One very 
similar to it may be seen, without difficulty or danger, over the door 
of Wely Kamah, north-west of the city. But the adventurous 
explorer would be wise to tarry here as short a time as possible, 
lest, before he is aware of it, he find himself in the midst of the 
peltings of a pitiless storm of stones showered upon him by all the 
boys and girls of Jebl Tur, as well as the " children of an older 
growth" — for they never omit exercising this precious privilege of 
pelting Franks, graciously vouchsafed them by special firman from 
the Sublime Porte, unless the blows are warded off by the adroit 
management of the potent piastre — in the shape of a shield yclept 
" buckshish /" 

" The Valley of the Dead Bodies" is, undoubtedly, an appellation 
appropriately applied to the Valley of the Kedron, which, it would 
appear, has always been the great burying ground of Jerusalem ; but 
as a specific designation, it is applied to the depression north of the 
Temple area. Multitudes were, no doubt, buried in earth-graves 
which have in many places been swept away, while in other spots 
they have been deeply inhumed by successive accumulations of rub- 
bish, forming stratum after stratum for sepulture. But most of the 
rock tombs still remain in a tolerably good state of preservation, and 
particularly those in the towering cliffs of the Mount of Offence, now 



JERUSALEM— AS IT WAS. 



205 



Sepulchres of Gehenna and Mount of Offence. 

appropriated to domestic use by the Silwanite Arabs ; and, as the 
monks will have it, once the abode of Solomon's strange wives. In 
the north-western cliff of Ben Hinnom, and indeed in all the lower 
north-eastern portion of the slope of the Hill of Evil Council, there 
are great numbers yet remaining notwithstanding the destructive 
agency of gunpowder brought to bear upon them so effectually by 
the vandal Greeks of late years. The doorways of these tombs are 
not elaborately carved ; but some of them are surmounted by chaste 
Doric pediments. 

Toward the lower extremity of this region of Gehenna may be 
observed, at a considerable distance, a conspicuously situated and 
well finished sepulchre, sometimes called the "whited sepulchre;" 
and near it is the " Latibulum Apostolorum" — "Apostles' Re- 
treat" — where it is said the Apostles (ten of them at least) concealed 
themselves during the period of the Saviour's inhumation ! Over 
the entrance may still be deciphered the celebrated inscription 
ths An AS 2I£2N, which suggested to a learned traveller the 
strangely preposterous conceit of the identity of this hill with 
Mount Zion ! But the suggestion of the lamented Shultz that this 
inscription merely indicates this tomb as the cemetery of " The 
Holy Church of Mount Zion" (Agia), is no doubt correct and suffi- 
ciently explanatory of the inscription. During the occupancy of 
these mansions of the dead (the larger by Cenobite communities, 
and the smaller by anchorites and half-dead half-alive hermits of 
every hue and dye), the walls of many of them were pictorially 
sanctified, and others inscribed with epitaphs, proprietors' names, 
&c. — a few in Hebrew but generally in ancient Greek characters, 
&c. ; but they are now so much effaced that though many attempts 
have been made to decipher and translate them by archaeologists — 
learned and unlearned — nothing has yet been evolved but contra- 
diction and absurdity — 



" Optics keen have they, I ween. 
Who read what is not to be seen." 



206 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Charnel-House recently discovered. 

Amongst these tombs is one with a single loculus and anteroom , 
which was regarded by the above thaumaturgic mountain-moving 
traveller as the tomb of Joseph of Arimathea — "the true Holy 
Sepulchre !" as if there were not hundreds of others like it all 
around J erusalem ! and strangely enough forgetting that the Saviour 
must needs suffer without the walls (for, if it was on Mount Zion, 
as he conjectured, it was of course within the walls). Some of 
these charnel-houses have an arrangement of the receptacles within, 
not elsewhere to be observed: they are neither sarcophagi nor 
loculi — technically speaking — but undetached thin stone troughs 
or coffins, arranged somewhat after the manner of berths in a vessel, 
containing perhaps a dozen skeletons in each depository, in most 
revolting pell-mell disorder. In exploring the lower story of one 
of these cells of death, which we accidentally stumbled upon, we 
found some consecrated wafers, water in a Jordan-can, saint-seeming 
pictures, and images of the Madonna and Infant Saviour sculptured 
in Jerusalem marble; the monumental offering, apparently, of a 
Greek devotee. I'he room in which this offertory was found, is 
entered by a door in the floor above, and seems altogether to have 
escaped observation in modern times ; though the condition in which 
the pictures and bread, the oil and the lamp, were found, forbids 
the idea that they could have lain there more than a few score years. 
The extent of the tomb is equal to that of Jehoshaphat, immediately 
behind the Pillar of Absalom, and like that is literally strewn with 
dead bodies, and but seldom explored by travellers. The outer 

doorway is a mere hole in the earth, 
rudely faced with rocks ; but the door of 
the tomb itself is considerably below the 
general surface of the ground, and is 
reached by a rapid descent through a 
rudely-lined passage of five or six yards 
in length. The accompanying representa- 
tion of this entrance will also give a general 
idea of many other entrances to these 
sepulchral excavations. 




JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



207 



Tomb of Annas, the traditionary Aceldama. 

Aceldama. — Just above the Retreat is shown a place called The 
Field of Blood to this day — " The Potters' Field," bought with the 
reward of iniquity — called in the Jews' own proper tongue " Acel- 
dama" — that was appropriated by the benevolent and conscientious 
chief priests and elders as a place to bury strangers in. The vault 
or cemetery itself is about sixty feet square, twenty or thirty in 
depth, and is only subterranean in part. The rock being very fri- 
able, has long since crumbled to pieces on the lower side, where the 
former entrance was, and been replaced by an artificial wall of 
rather inferior construction. The vault thrown over it is even with 
the ground on the upper side, but is probably twenty feet above the 
ground on the side next to Hinnom. There are two doors above, 
and a third opening from an adjoining cave ; but no means of 
descending it. The remains of large square pillars of the Jewish 
order render it highly probable that the superstructure was always 
artificial to a great extent. The interior has undergone so much 
disintegration in the lapse of ages that the loculi are scarcely dis- 
cernible in some places. This disintegrated dirt being supposed 
very favorable to speedy decomposition, much of it has been sent 
to foreign cemeteries ; and it has been the custom for ages past, 
until quite a recent period, to cast into this pit the corpses of the 
poor penniless pilgrim dying at Jerusalem, many of whose skulls 
are seen lying about the floor.* There is a bed of whitish earth 
not far from this famous receptacle of the dead, generally supposed 
to be clay, but evidently calcareous in its nature. It is, however, 
triumphantly pointed at by the advocates of tradition, in proof 
of the correct identification of Aceldama. And although this 
alleged identity cannot be disproved, yet it is much more probable 
that it is the tomb of the high priest Annas or Ananias, or Ana- 
nus as Josephus calls him (W. v. xii : 2), whose monument was cer- 
tainly in this immediate vicinity — -just where we would be inclined 



* Sir J. Maundeville says, that "in that felde ben manye tombs of Christine men : for 
there ben manye pilgrymes graven." 



208 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Alleged property of Aceldama earth. Judas's Tree. Neby D'aftd. 

to look for it — conspicuously situated in full view of the Temple. In 
conformity with the general belief that the earth of Potters' Field 
possessed the peculiar property of expediting the putrefactive pro- 
cess, we are told by Monroe, that, "By order of the Empress 
Helena, two hundred and seventy ship-loads of it were translated 
to Rome and deposited in the Campo Santo, near the Vatican ; 
where it was wont to reject the bodies of the Romans, and only con- 
sume those of strangers !" The interior of the Campo Santo at Pisa 
is also filled with this soil, when I saw it two years ago producing a 
rank crop of alopecurus and other grasses. 

" The Tree whereon Judas hung himself" and from which, "fall- 
ing headlong, he burst asunder in the midst, and all his bowels 
gushed out," is now shown beyond the limits of the field, about one 
hundred yards south-east of the summit of the Hill of Evil Council. 
During the Frank kingdom, it was located in Gehenna, at the foot 
of the cliff opposite the traditional Aceldama — a much more likely 
site, certainly, for here the cliff is thirty or forty feet in height ; 
and should he have fallen into the rocky gorge below, from an over- 
hanging limb at this place, such a doom of the traitor would have 
been as natural as well merited. 

Neby Daud — The Traditional Tomb of David. — This most 
sacred of all the sacred localities of the Turks in El-Khuds (the 
Holy) is situated beneath the Coenaculum, or "large upper room," 
in the hamlet called Neby Daud, near Zion Gate ; and is in the 
cherished custody of the very elite of Turkish society. Hence a 
suite of apartments was assigned Ibrahim Pasha in this revered 
place as his abode during his sojourn at the Holy City. 

No spot about the Holy City is half so jealously guarded as this 
sanctum sanctorum of the Moslems, so confidently believed by Jew 
and Christian as well as Mussulman to contain the dust of the " Sweet 
Singer of Israel." Hence the superstitious awe with which it is 
venerated by Mussulmans, is only equalled by the itching curiosity 
of Jews and Christians to explore the hidden arcana of its mysterious 
recesses. Many have been the attempts by foul means and by fair, 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS 209 
Traditionary Tomb of David. 

by lavish buckshishes as well as by furtive efforts, to gain admit- 
tance ; but all efforts have proved entirely abortive, until quite 
recently, when my daughter had the good fortune to be admitted, 
without money, without price, and without intrigue — simply through 
the strong attachment of a Moslem lady. Many have succeeded to 
their heart's content in bribing the body guard of the royal prophet ; 
indeed a few hundred dollars will readily compass such a feat. But 
then the good old sheikh has rather a curious way of fulfilling the 
terms and conditions of his covenant, by palming off a tumulus of 
richly canopied stone and mortar on the floor of an upper room, 
which, however, he is willing to swear by the beard of Mohammed 
is the veritable tomb of King David, Solomon, Hezekiah, Uzziah, 
&c, &c, &c. Indeed, I was myself victimized "on that wise." 
Having succeeded in relieving a favorite slave of the old effendi — 
and, what was far more highly appreciated, successfully treated a 
favorite wife of one of his sons, who was laboring under that most 
vexatious of all Oriental female complaints, sterility — he evidenced 
his profound gratitude by perpetrating the same fraud upon me. 

My daughter, however, was far more fortunate than any of us, as 
will be perceived on reading the following extract from her journal. 
It was just at that critical juncture of Ottoman affairs attendant 
upon the breaking out of the war between Russia and Turkey when 
the Sultan had sent an imperative firman to the Holy City, enjoin- 
ing all the faithful, under penalty of "five hundred sticks," to re- 
pair to the Haram every Friday at twelve o'clock, to pray for the 
success of the war against the infidels ; of course, all the "faithful" 
were conscienciously bound to be there at the specified time. ! It 
fortunately so happened, too, that my daughter's hands being well 
tattooed with henna at the time, she was in possession of a most 
desirable — indeed, indispensable passport. Circumstances seemed 
to be so propitious in every respect, and the contingency of danger 
so remote and improbable, that, after holding a brief family council, 
we could but agree that she should accept the pressing invitation 
of the generous lady, who, by-the-bye, being a relative of the old 

14 



210 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Neby D'aud. A hazardous adventure. 

Neby Daud effendi, and intimately acquainted with all the premises 
as well as the keepers and domestics, was the best possible cice- 
rone — considerations certainly of no small moment in such an ad- 
venture, especially in the event of any exigency. 

Extract. — " Early one morning, during the great Mohammedan 
feast of Rhamadan, I was called to the 6 parley' room, to see my friend 
Moosa. This little fellow having become rather a frequent visiter, 
I was at first inclined to excuse myself ; but remembering he had 
lately hinted at the possibility of my gaining an entrance into the 
Tomb of David, and in consideration, too, of the fact, that being 
their fasting season, the everlasting finjan of coffee and douceur of 
sweetmeats — those otherwise indispensable marks of Turkish civil- 
ity — might now be dispensed with, I concluded to make my appear- 
ance. On entering the room my pleasing suspicions were con- 
firmed, by seeing him close the door and mysteriously place his 
forefinger on his lips, in token of profound secrecy. He laid his 
ponderous turban on the divan beside him, doffed his slippers, 
crossed his legs, and then disclosed the nature of his errand. In 
short, I was informed that his sister was ready for an adventure ; 
and, as I was too, we were not long in reaching « Turfendah,' (his 
sister), who immediately commenced operations. My hair was taken 
down and braided in scores of little plaits. A red cloth cap, with 
a blue silk tassel, was placed on my head, and around it a gauze 
turban, with gold tassels and embroidery. My robe and trowsers 
were of the finest Damascus silk, my girdle of cashmere, and tunic 
of light blue stuff, embroidered in silver flowers. My hands were 
already dyed with < henna,' having undergone this process on the 
occasion of a former adventure in the Mosque of Omar, and still 
retained the deep yellow hue ; my skin was pretty deeply tanned, 
too, from a residence of several years under a burning Syrian sun, 
which was quite an addition to my Turkish appearance. The sheet, 
veil, and slippers came in due order ; and having secreted my pencil 
and sketch-book in the folds of my girdle, we sallied forth, accom- 
panied by Turfendah's favorite slave. 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



211 



Visit to the reputed Tomb of David. 

" The reputed Tomb of David is just outside of Zion Gate, l^ird 
by the Coenaculum and American cemetery. It is surrounded by 
an irregular pile of buildings, and surmounted by a dome and mina- 
ret. In the interior are some of the most grotesque architectural 
embellishments imaginable, on the capitals of some remains of the 
Crusaders' architecture. Just think of the frightful owl occupying 
the place of the classic acanthus and the mythic lotus ! We passed 
the several halls and corridors, evidently of the style of the Quixotic 
era of the Crusaders' domination, before reaching the consecrated 
apartment, whose entrance is guarded by double iron doors. We 
found here an old derwish prostrate in prayer, on the cold stone 
floor. Not being privileged, as we, to enter the sacred precincts, 
he was content with gazing at the Tomb through the iron bars ; for 
it is a rare thing for even a Mussulman ecclesiastic to gain admit- 
tance — my companion and her family only enjoying this privilege, 
because they are very near relatives of the curator of the tomb. 
Our slave was despatched for the key, which she had no difficulty in 
obtaining, on the plea that her mistress wished to pray on the holy 
spot. But what was my consternation on seeing another slave 
return with her ! I confess that I trembled, and was thinking I had 
best leave my awkward slippers behind, in case of retreat, as they 
would greatly impede my progress, and might thereby cause me to 
lose my head ! She peered under my veil, asked who I was, and 
seemed satisfied with the careless reply of Turfendah, that I was 
merely a friend of hers from Stamboul ! She invited us up stairs 
to see the old keeper's hareem ; and Dahudeah (Moosa's little wife) 
who is always glad to exchange the purgatory of a residence with 
her lord and master, for a visit of a few days here ; for I can testify 
from personal observation, that the young effendi lords it over her 
in true Oriental conjugal style ! Turfendah regretted she could not 
accept her kind invitation, and, as she was so much exhausted from 
fasting, she would prefer deferring it to another time ! The slave 
then left, to our mutual relief, and, having dismissed the old der- 
wish, the doors were closed and doubly locked. The room is insig- 



212 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Neby Dafid. 

nificant in its dimensions, but is furnished very gorgeously. The 
tomb is apparently an immense sarcophagus of rough stone, and is 
covered by green satin tapestry, richly embroidered with gold. To 
this a piece of black velvet is attached, with a few inscriptions from 
the Koran, embroidered also in gold. A satin canopy of red, blue, 
green, and yellow stripes, hangs over the tomb ; and another piece 
of black velvet tapestry, embroidered in silver, covers a door in one 
end of the room, which they said, leads to a cave underneath. Two 
tall silver candlesticks stand before this door, and a little lamp 
hangs in a window near it, which is kept constantly burning, and 
whose wick, though saturated with oil — and, I dare say, a most 
nauseous dose — my devotional companion eagerly swallowed, mutter- 
ing to herself a prayer with many a genuflexion. She then, in addi- 
tion to their usual forms of prayer, prostrated herself before the 
tomb, raised the covering, pressed her forehead to the stone, and 
then kissed it many times. The ceiling of the room is vaulted, and 
the walls covered with blue porcelain, in floral figures. Having 
remained here an hour or more, and completed my sketch, we left ; 
and great was my rejoicing when I found myself once more at home, 
out of danger, and still better, out of my awkward costume." * * * 

The result of her pencilling is before the reader, and sufficiently 
speaks for itself. 

No small portion of the interest attaching to the Tomb of David 
is due to the treasure supposed to be still buried somewhere below. 
Josephus informs us (Ant. vii. xv : 3), that " David was buried by 
his son Solomon in Jerusalem, with great magnificence and with all 
the other funeral pomp with which kings used to be buried with ; 
moreover, he had great and immense wealth buried with him, the 
vastness of which may be easily conjectured at by what I shall now 
say: for, a thousand and three years afterwards, Hyrcanus the 
high priest, when he was besieged by Antiochus that was called the 
Pious, son of Demetrius, and was desirous of giving him money to 
get him to raise the siege and draw off his army ; and having no 
other method of compassing the money, opened one room of David's 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 213 
David's Tomb despoiled of its treasure. 

sepulchre, and took out three thousand talents, and gave part of 
that sum to Antiochus, and by this means caused the siege to be 
raised. Nay r after him and that many years, Herod the king 
opened another room, and took away a great deal of money ; and 
yet neither of them came at the coffins of the kings themselves, for 
their bodies were buried under the earth so artfully, that they did 
not appear to those that entered into their monuments." 

Of this last robbery (by the high priest) the Jewish historian 
gives us farther particulars in another place (Ant. xvi. vii : 1) : "As 
for Herod, he had spent vast sums about the cities, both without 
and within his own kingdom ; and as he had before heard that Hyr- 
canus, who had been king before him, had opened David's sepulchre 
and taken out of it three thousand talents of silver, and that there 
was a much greater number left behind, and indeed enough to suffice 
all his wants ; he had a great while an intention to make the 
attempt ; and at this time he opened that sepulchre at night, and 
wen^ to it, and endeavored that it should not be at all known in 
the city, but took only his most faithful friends with him. As for 
any money, he found none, as Hyrcanus had done, but that furni- 
ture of gold, and those precious goods that were laid up there ; all 
these he took away. However, he had a great desire to make a 
more diligent search, and to go farther in, even as far as the very 
bodies of David and Solomon ; where two of his guards were slain by 
a flame that burst out upon those that went in, as the report was. 
So he was terribly affrighted, and went out, and built a propitiatory 
monument of that fright he had been in ; and this of white stone, 
at the mouth of the sepulchre, and that at a great expense also. 
And even Nicholaus, his historiographer, makes mention of this 
monument built by Herod, though he does not mention his going 
down into the sepulchre, as knowing that action to be of ill repute." 

Benjamin of Tudela, who is generally regarded as a trustworthy 
chronicler, visited Jerusalem about A. D. 1860-1870, and tells the 
following rather hard story about this mysterious place. " On 
Mount Zion are the sepulchres of the house of David and those of 



214 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Marvelous adventure related by Benjamin of Tudela. 

the kings who reigned after him. In consequence of the following 
circumstance, however, this place is hardly to be recognised at pre- 
sent. Fifteen years ago, one of the walls of the place of worship 
on Mount Zion fell down, which the patriarch ordered the priest to 
repair. He commanded to take stones from the original wall of 
Zion, and to employ them for that purpose ; which command was 
obeyed, Two laborers who were engaged in digging stones from 
the very foundation of the walls of Zion, happened to meet with 
one which formed the mouth of a cavern. They agreed to enter 
the cave and search for treasure ; and in pursuit of this object they 
penetrated to a large hall, supported by pillars of marble incrusted 
with gold and silver, before which stood a table with a golden sceptre 
and crown. This was the sepulchre of David, king of Israel ; to the 
left of which they saw that of Solomon, and of all the kings of 
Judah, who were buried there. They further saw locked chests, 
and desired to enter the hall to examine them, but a blast of wind 
like a storm issued from the cavern, and prostrated them almost 
lifeless upon the ground. They lay in this state till the evening, 
when they heard a voice commanding to rise up and go forth from 
the place. They proceeded, terror-stricken, to the patriarch, and 
informed him of what had occurred. He summoned Rabbi Abraham 
el Constantini, a pious ascetic, one of the mourners of the down- 
fall of Jerusalem, and caused the two laborers to repeat the occur- 
rence in his presence. Rabbi Abraham hereupon informed the 
patriarch that they had discovered the sepulchres of the house of 
David and of the kings of Judah. The patriarch ordered the place 
to be walled up, so as to hide it effectually from every one to the 
present day. The above-mentioned Rabbi Abraham told me all 
this." 

If these accounts be credible, the royal sepulchres must have been 
successfully concealed from the Egyptians, the Chaldeans, the 
Romans, the Persians, and all other captors of the Holy City — which 
is rather a large draft upon one's faith to credit, especially as the 
site was evidently known in the days of Nehemiah and of the 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



215 



Neby Daud a mislocation. Charnel-House of the Lion. 

Apostles It would appear that in the 16th century there were two 
travellers, Furer and Radzivil, who succeeded in bribing their way 
into an apartment in the hamlet of Neby Daud something like the 
one represented by the chromograph : and it is a well-known fact 
that Sir Moses and Lady Montefiore were permitted — but at an 
immense cost, as I learn — » to behold through the lattice of a trel- 
lissed door" what they regarded as "the sacred and royal deposit 
of the best and noblest of kings." 

That David and all his successors were buried far under ground 
is a well-established fact. The oblong tumulus must therefore be 
regarded as the representative of the « propitiatory monument" that 
Herod built over the mouth of the cave — if indeed it be not palmed 
off as the identical monument itself — though it is the common belief 
that the royal seer lies within this very tumulus just behind the 
tablet of black velvet. 

A candid review of all the facts of the case constrains me to 
abandon the view I once entertained as to the genuineness of the 
site, and brings me confidently to the conclusion that the Tomb of 
David is several hundred yards east of the traditional locality. It 
is not even positively known that there are such extensive and well- 
executed excavations at the traditional site as would at all justify the 
tradition — even were all other matters more strictly in accordance 
with the demands of the case. 

There are several other small but quite well-executed sepulchres, 
as also several natural caverns, a short distance below Neby Daud ; 
and it is not at all improbable that the tomb now claimed to be David's, 
is indeed a royal sepulchre, but the property of one of the leprous 
or dishonored kings instead of that of the great prophet-king of 
Israel. 

Charnel-House of the Lion. — Amongst the numerous church edi- 
fices reared by the Franks during the period of their domination in 
Palestine was the Church of St. Mamilla or Babilla, over extensive 
sepulchral excavations three or four hundred feet west of the tra- 
ditional Pool of Gihon. It is called Charnel-House of the Lion, 



216 CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 

Turkish and Christian cemeteries. 

because the Christians slain at the sack of Jerusalem by the Persians 
under Chosroes II. are said to have been dragged and thrown into 
the cavern by a tender-hearted lion ; and the especial design of the 
church was daily to chant prayers over their remains. These cata- 
combs appear to have been merely a natural cave at first, but 
were subsequently enlarged and strengthened by excavation and 
masonry. It is a soft, easily disintegrated rock, however, and 
much of it, like the bones of the poor Christians, has mouldered 
into dust. The catacombs are in the midst of the Turkish bury- 
ing-ground, where there are several welies containing the remains 
of distinguished Moslem saints, and several natural caverns and 
artificial excavations in which are great numbers of skeletons. 
And in the Muhammedan cemetery along the east side of the 
Haram and on the Hill of Goath, portions of partially decayed 
corpses may frequently be seen protruding from the ground. Still 
more loathsome is the sight occasionally witnessed in the Jewish 
burying-ground, where for want of room they are frequently buried 
in tiers — the topmost one, of course, being very superficially covered. 
The Jews have a small cemetery on Mount Ophel, and quite a large 
one on Mount Zion ; but by far the largest occupies the valley of 
the Kedron and the western slope of Olivet, stretching from the 
village of Silwan nearly to the Garden of Gethsemane, about two 
hundred yards in breadth. 

The Christian cemeteries occupy but little space, and are all on 
Mount Zion. A parcel of ground near the "Birket Mamilla" was 
first secured for the Anglican Cemetery; but the "faithful" became 
so scandalized and horrified by this vicinage of " Christian dogs," 
that, after enduring much vexatious litigation, the English mission- 
aries were very willing to exchange it for a site on the brow of Zion 
just above the "Birket es-Sultan," quite a picturesque and eligi- 
ble situation. The other Christian cemeteries are near Zion Gate, 
as indicated on the large map — Armenian, Latin, Greek, and Ameri- 
can. The traveller can but look with melancholy interest on the 
slab that covers the remains of Costigan, the unfortunate explorer 



JERUSALEM 



— AS IT WAS. 



217 



American Cemetery on Zion. 

of the Dead Sea, as he strolls through the Latin graveyard. Dr. 
Robinson gives the following affecting account of the last end of 
a young American Protestant, of whom I have heard much also from 
others. 

" In the Latin quarter one inscription struck my eye particularly ; 
it contained the name of my own country, and marked the grave 
of a young American. Ten years ago I had known him in Paris in 
the flower of his youth, a favorite in the family of La Fayette, and 
moving in the gay circles of that gay metropolis. He had soon 
after wandered off to Egypt and the east ; and, in 1830, died here 
alone and friendless in the Latin convent. The epitaph with which 
the monks have honored him declares, that < of his own accord he 
abjured the errors of Luther and Calvin, and professed the Catho- 
lic religion.' Poor youth ! he knew too little of the doctrines of 
the Reformers, and still less of those of the Romish Church. No 
friend was near to watch over his last moments ; and the strongest 
inference that can be drawn from the above language is, that in 
order to be left in quiet he gave assent to all their questions. Or, 
not improbably, the assertion may rest merely on the fact, that in 
his dying hour, when consciousness perhaps was gone, they admin- 
istered to him extreme unction. The stone purports to have been 
placed by 6 weeping friends' — rejoicing Catholics of course; for no 
others could have put an inscription like the following over his 
grave. 

d. o. M. 
HIC JACET 
C. B. Ex Americans Regionibus 
Lugduni Gallia? Consul, Hierosolymis tactus intrinsecus sponte 
Erroribus Lutheri et Calvini abjectis 
Catholicam Religionem professus, Synanche correptus 
E vita decessit IV nonas Augusti MDCCCXXX 
JEtatis suge 
XXV 

Amici mcerentes posuere 
Orate pro eo." 



To Professor Robinson I am also indebted for the following 



218 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Protestants denied burial in Greek Cemeteries. 




AMERICAN CEMETERY — NEAR NEBY DAUD. 

account of the American Cemetery, liberally provided for their Jeru- 
salem Mission by the American Board of Commissioners for 
Foreign Missions, several years prior to their abandonment of that 
station. It is still owned by the Mission, however ; and any Pro- 
testant dying at Jerusalem is allowed to repose within its walls on 
payment of a small sum — and if poor, without money and with- 
out price. " A little to the southward of the Latin Cemetery, and 
adjacent to the north-west enclosures connected with the Mosque 
and Tomb of David, is a small plat of ground which has been pur- 
chased by the American missionaries as a place of burial for their 
dead. To this measure they were driven almost by necessity. Two 
of their members, Mrs. Thomson and Dr. Dodge, had already died 
in Jerusalem. For the former a grave was sought and obtained 
without difficulty in the Cemetery of the Greeks. In the case of 
the latter, the same permission was granted, and a grave dug ; but 
as they were about to proceed to the burial, word was brought that 
the permission had been recalled and the grave filled up. On a 
strong representation of the case to the heads of the Greek convent, 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



219 



Title to American Cemetery secured. Sepulchres within the walls. 

the burial was allowed to take place, with the express understanding 
that a like permission would never more be given. In consequence, 
the missionaries purchased this little spot upon Mount Zion, and 
enclosed it with a common wall of stone. The plat contains two or 
three olive-trees, and looked green and peaceful ; but it was yet 
untenanted. After the purchase had been made, and possession 
delivered, the authorities of the city hesitated to give it the last 
legal sanction. They did not object to the transaction itself ; but, 
as they wanted a bribe of some fifty dollars in their own pockets, 
they professed to entertain scruples, whether it was fitting that 
Christian corpses should be buried so near the sacred Tomb of 
David. The matter had not at that time been brought to a close, 
and, until this was done, the missionaries did not choose to transfer 
thither the relics of their friends. I have since learned, that daring 
the last year (1840) the Mission caused a permanent wall to be 
erected around the plat, with a door under lock and key ; and 
shortly afterwards, on the death of a child of Mr. Nicolayson, the 
body was interred with all due formalities within the precincts. All 
this was done without opposition on the part of the authorities ; and 
as such matters are here usually settled by full possession and pre- 
scription, no further difficulty is apprehended." The remains of 
Dr. Fisk, and several other Americans have since been interred in 
this unpretending graveyard. 

This brief notice must suffice for the sepulchres and sepulchral 
buildings without the city ; but, within the walls, there is an edifice 
to which so profound an interest attaches that it justly demands a 
more detailed notice. I allude to the entire group of buildings 
known under the general appellation of " The Church of the Holy 
Sepulchre." 

According to Eusebius, the Emperor Constantine (being divinely 
moved thereto soon after his memorable "in-hoc-signo-vinces" vision) 
caused the dirt and other obstructions with which Hadrian is said to 
have covered a certain rock cavern, as well as the sanctuary of 
Venus which had been erected upon this immense pile of earth, to 



220 



CITY OF THE GEE AT KING. 



Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Cross identified. 

be removed, and a magnificent temple to be built about it — under 
the impression that this cavern was no other than the identical 
sepulchre in which the Saviour was buried. It was accordingly- 
accomplished in the finest style ; and the various edifices, called col- 
lectively the Temple, dedicated A. D. 335. The monticule contain- 
ing the alleged sepulchre of the Lord was cut away until it became 
only a foot or two in thickness around the cavern, which seems at 
the same time to have been converted into a double-roomed sepulchre, 
and was covered with marble within and without — this iEdicula 
being the true Church of the Anastasis, around which a very large 
circular building was erected, and, on the east, various other mag- 
nificent structures — the Martyrium, Basilica, &c. 

It is gravely affirmed (not by Eusebius, however, but by all imme- 
diately-succeeding writers) that the true cross on which Emmanuel 
had suffered was brought to light and verified under the following 
circumstances. The Empress Helena, on making a pilgrimage to 
the Holy City, having by divine direction and guidance at last dis- 
covered the sepulchre, was much perplexed by three crosses, a tablet, 
and some large nails close by. The tablet, however, not being in 
connexion with either of the crosses, it was still uncertain which 
was the " true cross." But Bishop Macarius happily suggested an 
expedient by which their harassing doubts were immediately relieved, 
and the perplexing question at once and for ever settled infallibly. 
The three crosses were successively presented before a noble lady 
of the Holy City that lay hopelessly sick. The first one exhibited 
produced no effect whatever ; neither did the second ; but no sooner 
was the third one placed near her than she sprang up, perfectly 
restored ! 

This magnificent pile, thus erected by order of Constantine, re- 
mained about three hundred years ; when it was studiously destroyed 
by the Persian and Jewish army under Chosroes II., who doomed it 
to the ordeal of fire, A. D. 614. Another series of buildings was, 
however, soon erected on the site of the former, but, as would seem, 
considerably varied in form, dimensions, and style. 



\ 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 221 
Repeated destruction of the Church St. Sepulchre. 

The Church of the Holy Sepulchre, as well as all other Christian 
edifices, seems to have escaped the hand of spoilation from this time 
onward, till the city fell under the dominion of the Fatimites ; for 
be it said, to the honor of Omar and in justice to Arab character, 
that he sacredly observed the stipulations of his covenant in behalf 
of the Christian buildings. In 969, however, the Khalif Muez gave 
orders to destroy the buildings, as far at least as destruction could 
* be compassed, by fire. And during the Khalifate of el-Hakim, in 
1010, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre was entirely demolished 
by the Governor of Ramley, under his orders — the building being 
not only razed to its foundations, but special efforts made to deface 
and destroy the sepulchre itself.* Glaber, a contemporary chroni- 
cler, relates that they endeavored to break in pieces even the hollow 
tomb of the sepulchre with iron hammers, but without success : 
and Ademar, another chronicler and palmer, states that, when they 
found it impossible to break in pieces the stone of the monument, 
they tried to destroy it by the help of fire ; but that it remained 
firm and solid as adamant ! ! ! 

Its reconstruction was commenced under the successor of Hakim, 
and completed in 1048, but evidently in a much less imposing style ; 
and in this state the buildings were found by the Crusaders in 1099, 
when they captured the city ; but were soon afterwards enlarged 
and beautified. 

In 1808 this entire pile of buildings was again doomed to destruc- 
tion by fire ; but, phoenix-like, rose from its ashes in 1810. The 
following account of this conflagration is given by one who not only 
believes most firmly that the alleged site of Calvary and the Tomb 
is the genuine one, but that, notwithstanding all the fires and spolia- 
tions to which the place has been subjected, the original shell of 
rock still remains : — " I need not enter into the details of that fire. 
It will be sufficient for my purpose to state that the heat was so 
excessive that the marble columns which surrounded the circular 



* Professor Willis. 



222 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Alleged immunity of the Sepulchre and furniture from injury. 

building, in the centre of which stood the sacred grotto, were com- 
pletely pulverized. The lamps and chandeliers, with the other ves- 
sels of the church — brass, and silver, and gold — were melted like 
wax : the molten lead from the immense dome which crowned the 
Holy Sepulchre poured down in torrents ; the chapel erected by the 
Crusaders on the top of the monolith was entirely consumed ; half 
the ornamental hangings in the ante-chapel of the Angel were 
scorched ; but the cave itself, though deluged with a shower of lead . 
and buried in a mountain of fire, received not the slightest injury 
internally ; the silk hangings and the painting of the Resurrection 
remaining, in the midst of the volcanic eruption, unscathed by the 
flame, the smell of fire not having passed upon them." But, 
whether or not this thin wall of native limestone around the sepul 
chre can have escaped the destroying agency of a heat that con- 
verted the more refractory marble into lime — even if it had not 
been previously demolished by the destroying hand of man — the 
reader must needs juege for himself; for, though it would be so 
easy to settle the question by giving ocular proof of its continued 
existence if still there, the " Guardians of the Sepulchre" take 
special care not to permit examination to be made by any heretical 
"outsider." But the traditionist that has credulity enough to be- 
lieve in the "invention" of the cross, as its discovery is called — 
that shallowest of all the shallow inventions of the "mystery of 
iniquity" — will find but little difficulty in believing the alleged 
asbestine character of the sepulchre, or the salamandrine properties 
of its tapestry and paintings : still less will he find in believing that 
the mighty heathen emperor of the world, instead of utterly destroy- 
ing the little rocky prominence containing the sepulchre (or cave, 
as Eusebius calls it — antron), was content in his spiteful hate 
merely to cover it up with earth : and none whatever, that the im- 
perial architect was silly enough to erect the temple of the Goddess 
of Love upon this pile of earth ! ! I 

But, indeed, whether this locality can possibly be the site of the 
crucifixion and burial of the Redeemer, in view of the historical 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



223 



The traditionary site inconsistent with stubborn facts. 

evidence of the evangelic narrative, with which it is so irreconcilable, 
the archaeological reasons so entirely inconsistent with it, and the 
topographical argument with which it is still more at variance — the 
reader must also judge for himself. It must also be borne in mind 
that although such a strenuous effort is made to press into the ser- 
vice of this locality, tradition of the highest antiquity, yet on inves- 
tigation it is all resolved at last into a mere 'presumption that inas- 
much as a temple was reared to Venus on that spot, ergo it may have 
been Calvary and the Garden of Sepulture ! Eor, even admitting 
the genuineness of the inventive miracle by which the true cross is 
alleged to have been certified, the question as to the identification 
of the true sepulchre is by no means determined. But, supposing 
for argument's sake that the alleged site had been maintained by 
an unvarying tradition a hundred years older than that claimed by 
the warmest advocates of the legendary school, may not that tra- 
dition have been founded in error, as that in relation to the Church 
of Ascension most clearly is, and at least two also of those fixing 
the martyrdom of St. Stephen indubitably are — traditionists them- 
selves being judges ? 

The historical and archaeological aspect of the matter being suffi- 
ciently presented in considering the question of Golgotha, as well 
as incidentally here and elsewhere, the topographical bearing of the 
subject will now be briefly considered, referring the reader for a 
thorough consideration of the whole matter to the masterly argu- 
ment of Professor Robinson, in his " Biblical Researches," and the 
"Bibliotheca Sacra," No. XI., 1846. 

The crucifixion and burial of the Saviour having occurred without 
the walls, it must be conceded by the most devoted advocate of oral 
tradition that if it can be shown that the traditional Calvary and Se- 
pulchre (or the site of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre) was with- 
in the city walls at the period of the crucifixion, then it must be ad- 
mitted that a grand mistake has been made in fixing upon that spot ; 
and hence the obvious corollary, that churches and kingdoms have 
long been fighting for that which neither is nor could be what tra- 



224 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Considerations urged in favor of the present site. 

dition alleges. This whole question, though supposed to involve such 
momentous interests, being altogether topographical in its character, 
is susceptible of a settlement possessing nearly all the conclusive- 
ness of an ocular demonstration. The decision of the matter wholly 
depends upon the location of the " Second Wall," which is thus de- 
scribed by Josephus (Wars v. iv : 2) : " The Second Wall took its 
beginning from that gate which they call < Gennath' which belonged 
to the First Wall ; it only encompassed the northern quarter of the 
city, and reached as far as the Tower of Antonia." The position 
of Gennath — the starting point of the Second Wall — is therefore the 
pivot upon which the whole controversy turns. Now there is no 
doubt as to the termination of this wall,— the Tower of Antonia being 
a well ascertained point. But the precise part of the First Wall in 
which the Gennath Gate was placed, is a matter that has been keenly 
controverted on account of its bearing upon this question — " topo- 
graphers" contending that its position must necessarily have been 
quite high up near the Hippie Tower, and » traditionists" that it 
was situated much lower down — some locating it as far east as the 
Turkish Bazaar. 

In support of the assertion that Gennath Gate was situated as 
low down as the bazaars, it is alleged by those who contend that 
the Church of the Holy Sepulchre occupies the true site of the 
crucifixion and resurrection : — 

1st. That the old columns still to be seen at the « Porta Judici- 
aria" and further southward parallel to the bazaars, are portions of 
the "internal decorations" of a gateway in the ancient outer wall. 

2d. That a broken arch on the eastern side of the large open area 
fronting the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, was a gateway in the 
same wall. 

3d. That the house at the intersection of the westernmost bazaar 
with David street, in which are found a few courses of stones resem- 
bling those in the Hippie Tower, but much smaller, is one of the 
towers of the ancient Second Wall — Mariamne perhaps. 

4th. That Zion being more easily accessible at this point than it 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 225 
The arguments alleged in favor of the present site refuted. 

is below or above (for a considerable distance), was a very suitable 
place for a gate ; and 

5th. That the crown of an old arch on the street leading hence 
to Zion Gate, thirty or forty yards south of David street, near a 
dyer's shop, is Gennath Gate itself. 

It is most obvious that if the wall was indeed so far east, it would 
necessarily leave the Church of the Holy Sepulchre about one hun- 
dred yards outside on the west, and therefore the traditional sites 
may possibly be the true ones. But there are very serious objec- 
tions and obstacles in the way of such a location of the wall. 

A wall pursuing this course (going thence to Antonia via Damas- 
cus Gate, as is contended) could with no sort of propriety be said to 
encompass the northern quarter of the city within its narrow scope — 
the space thus included being a long irregular parallelogram. The 
remains still found in the tower rooms at Damascus Gate so unniis- 
takeably proclaim these structures to have been a part of the ancient 
" Second Wall," that traditionists are compelled to assign them a 
place in their location of the wall, however unnatural the parallelo- 
gram thus made. It would thus leave nearly one-half of the northern 
wall of Zion unprotected at its weakest point, contrary to the decla- 
ration of Josephus. A wall thus situated on the steep slope of 
Akra would also be entirely unavailing as a defensive structure 
Nor could there have been any object in locating a wall so disad- 
vantageously in respect to security and the quantity of ground 
enclosed, when there was a site so much better but a short distance 
above, where nearly twice as much area would be included by the 
same extent of wall — or one certainly not exceeding it more than 
fifty or one hundred yards in length. The exclusion of the Birket 
el-Batrack, or the traditional Pool of Hezekiah, so that it would be 
unavailable to the citizens but available for the enemy in time of 
siege, is also another most serious objection to this location of the 
wall. Not only, however, do these strong objections obtain, but the 
arguments urged in behalf of such a location are altogether inap- 
plicable. The " pillars" along the bazaar, instead of forming a 
15 



226 CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 

" The broken columns," " archway" and " portal." 

portion of an imaginary gateway, extended formerly (as is clearly 
proved by the remains still existing between the covered bazaar 
and the "Judgment Gate") about one hundred and fifty yards, and 
evidently belong to the propyleum or colonnade of the Basilica of 
the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, as satisfactorily appears from 
accounts of the Chronicles.* Equally evident is it from the same 
authorities, that the broken portal or "smaller half of an arch" is 
the remains of one of the entrances to the palace of the " Knight's 
Hospitalers." The alleged Tower of Mariamne is considerably too 
far north to belong to the First Wall, which Josephus says was ele- 
vated on the brow of Zion thirty cubits above the valley in which this 
house stands, even if its rocks were not too diminutive to be the re- 
mains of the tower described by Josephus. This depression is cer- 
tainly more suitable for a gate than the adjoining ground, either 
above or below ; but even if it could be shown that there ever was 
a gate there, it would yet remain to be proved that it was the Gren- 
nath — and besides, if this depression be not the site of Millo and 
Silla, where are we to look for these places ? The gateway which 
is sought to be identified with Gennath, unfortunately ranges north 
and south ( ! ! ) instead of east and west as required ; and moreover 
belongs to a wall (I observed at intervals, while excavations were 
being made in that part of Zion), running in quite another direction 
within fifteen or twenty feet of the Zion Minaret (nearly two hundred 
yards further north), and containing several well preserved arches. 
The curious traveller may see a portion of this wall beneath the 
Askenazim Synagogue, some of whose arches are six feet thick and 
twelve in span, with stones generally 3x2x2; though some of 
them are six feet in length. The arch near David street may be a 
portion of the Millo works : and the wall farther on southward may 
well be the representative of the ancient boundary of Jebus " when 



* Those near the middle are gray granite, southern extremity are of native reddish 
and may have belonged to the propyleum, marble, and probably belonged to the colon- 
but those now remaining at the northern and nade or portico. 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



227 



Gennath Gate — why so called and whore situated. 

David captured it and built round about from Millo and inward." 
But it is not only obvious that none of the evidence adduced by 
traditionists in support of this location of the Second Wall and 
Gennath Gate can be relied upon ; but it is evident from various 
considerations that this gate was much higher up — quite near the 
Tower of Hippicus. We know that Herod the Great had a magni- 
ficent garden on Mount Zion, in this immediate vicinity ; and giving 
entrance, as it probably did, either directly into the garden or into 
a street leading by it, it is appropriately called « Garden" or 
" G-ennath" Gate on that account.* It is probable also that it did 
not exist until the erection of the Third Wall, but was then rendered 
necessary to form a direct communication between Zion and Coeno- 
polis ; though it may always have been used to give exit directly 
from Zion into the country. 

Not only would a gate, situated in the westernmost part of the 
northern wall of Zion, be more convenient and serviceable than at 
any point lower down, but such is the nature of the ground that it 
must almost necessarily have been situated just there, near to Hip- 
picus. We nowhere learn that Zion was ever attacked on the north 
until Akra had been previously captured ; and this is in exact 
accordance with the declaration of Josephus, that this wall was pro- 
tected by the " Second." Hence, Gennath Gate, where the " Second 
Wall" started from the " First," must, of necessity, have been situ- 
ated near the western extremity of the northern boundary of Zion — 
and of course near Hippicus. It is evident that the monument of 
the high priest John was situated between the Second and Third 
Walls, opposite the Amygdalon Pool which was east of it, and that 
this pool is identical with that now called Hezekiah's Pool. From 
the immediate neighborhood of this pool, on its west, there ran a 



* A late and elegant writer wonders that could any sober-minded person make such a 

"no one has appeared to observe the inter- far-fetched conjecture, when he could but 

esting fact, however slight may seem, its im- know that all that district was already built 

portance in this argument, that this gate up, and was soon afterward enclosed by 

opened toward that garden in which we sup- Agrippa ! 
pose the Saviour found a tomb." But how 



228 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Tombs of Joseph, Nicodemus, Melchisedec, Adam, Godfrey and Baldwin. 

wall to the Tower of Hippicus, which was repaired by Simon— 
" quite to the gate by which water is brought into Hippicus." There 
was, therefore, a gate in the First Wall, near this tower, through 
which water was conducted into it. Now, the Second Wall having 
started from a gate near Hippicus, the conclusion is almost irresist- 
ible that this gate through which water was brought into Hippicus 
was the Gennath. 

The four tombs ascribed to Joseph of Arimathea, Nicodemus, 
Melchisedec, and Adam, are alleged by traditionists in proof that 
this site was beyond the walls ; but there is no tradition relating to 
them earlier than the sixteenth century, and it is certain that the 
one built in the wall cannot be much older than eight hundred years — 
Hakim having entirely destroyed the church in the year 1010. But 
it were really trifling with the subject to seriously undertake a refuta- 
tion of the puerile argument attempted to be drawn from the present 
existence of these tombs. For, what does it signify, if they have 
indeed all been excavated long before the erection of the Second 
Wall, when that district was clearly beyond the limits of the city, 
or what if made after the demolition of that wall and before its re- 
construction, when it was again outside the city ; or what — " the 
end justifying the means' — if they were all — as one certainly was — 
foisted there by the hand of well-meaning Pia Fraus ! 

But, though the pilgrim may turn away with disgust from these 
bald impositions upon his confidence, yet he will not fail to visit with 
interest the tombs of Godfrey of Bouillon and his brother Baldwin — 
the almost illegible inscriptions on which, when correctly deciphered, 
read thus : — 

" Hie jacet inclytus dux Godefridus de 
Bulion, qui totam istam terrain ac- 
Quisivit cultui Christiano, cujus anima 

Regnit cum Christo. Amen." 

"Rex Balduinus, Judas alter Machabeus, 
Spes Patriae, Vigor Ecclesiae, Virtus utriusquae, 
Quern formidabant, cui dona tributa ferebant 
Caedar et Egyptus, Dan ac homicid Damascus, 
Pro Dolor ! In modico clauditer hoc tumulo." 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS 2?9 

A topographic creed. 

One of the latest and most captivating writers upon the Holy 
City, albeit his style is rather poetic, jocose, and airy for so grave a 
subject, has so succinctly stated his creed on this mooted point that 
I may as well transcribe it — appending a concise remark or two, en 
passant , for the benefit of whom it may concern.* 

" These points then," he avers, in announcing the four articles 
of his easy topographic faith, » appear to me sufficient evidence on 
which to rest my faith in the authenticity of the Holy Sepulchre : 

" 1. It is not credible that this locality was forgotten by Chris- 
tians within three hundred years after the great events of the cruci- 
fixion, burial, and resurrection." [And yet tradition itself does not 
even assert any such knowledge of its locality, or even existence ; but 
simply that Oonstantine built the Church of the Holy Sepulchre upon 
a spot where it was thought Hadrian had erected a temple to Venus ; 
and what if the valley -filling, mountain-levelling ', Christian- hating 
Jews had levelled the monticule and scattered it, cave and all, to the 
four winds ! What would the memory of the " oldest inhabi t nt" 
avail, if nothing were left to remember f\ 

" 2. Critical scholars and learned men employed in investigating 
the topography of the Holy Land, had no doubt of its authenticity 
in the fourth century." [These critical scholars and learned men 
(in the fourth century — no short time that!!) were not a whit more 
competent than scores of moderns, who have come to a very different 
conclusion: and besides, the works of these fathers furnish abundant 
evidence that they ivere quite as gullible by "pious fraud" as some 



* An instance of this author's unpardon- Gennath. Equally mistaken is he in his per- 
able looseness is found in the assertion made haps, that "this gateway is the most massive 
when speaking of this very subject — that perfect arch, ancient or modern, in Jerusalem." 
"the springs of the upper Pool of Gihon Had he pursued his investigations a little 
formerly found their way across to the Valley farther south, he would not only have found 
of Jehosaphat;" across Mount Zion and several "more perfect arches," but con vine- 
Mount Moriah ! ! ! Another evidence of his ing proof also that this poor tortured gateway 
great inaccuracy also occurs in treating of is far from being any part of the Second 
the same theme, when speaking of the size Wall, 
of the stones in the traditionary Gate of 



230 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



A topographic creed. 

other people in the world. Was not their faith founded alone in 
that incredible miracle ? ! /] 

" 3. No one, so far as we know, thought in that age of disputing 
the fact, but all men acknowledged its truth." [That all men 
acknowledged its truth, I trow, would be rather difficult to prove at 
this late Anno Domini ; and several persons may have thought of 
doubting it, and yet the fact be unknown to us after the lapse of 
more than fifteen hundred years /] 

" 4. It is not doubted by any one that this is the locality in which 
those learned men placed their confidence, it having been well pre- 
served from that time to this." [Granted : but what of that? If 
it was an error then — as stubborn facts positively declare it was — 
just as great is the error now.~\ 

The gifted author thus continues : — « This is, I say, sufficient, 
without those additional considerations which I shall hereafter pre- 
sent. But of course, these grounds of faith may be undermined. 
It is not pretended that they sustain a certainty. He who would 
overcome the argument may do it in two ways: — " 

" 1. By proving that this is not the locality, from some evidence 
therewith connected." [Which is clearly done by irrefragable evi- 
dence, drawn from historical, topographical, and archaeological facts 
and considerations.^ 

" 2. By proving that some other place is the locality, and thereby 
establishing a sort of alibi. The second proposition it will not be 
necessary to consider, since no one can maintain it." [Why can no 
one maintain it ? The kind of alibi required, it ivill be found, may 
at least be plausibly inferred, from the considerations adduced in the 
article Golgotha. But to show that the events could not have trans- 
pired at the spot assigned them by tradition will amply suffice, and 
virtually amounts to an alibi. The physical features of the ever- 
lasting hills are rather more permanent and reliable than the oracles 
of Protean tradition ; and it must needs be confessed by the most 
Jevoted traditionist, that that which is topographically impossible can- 



/ 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



" Sacred Shrines" within the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. 

not be traditionally true — be the assumption never so confidently 
made and plausibly maintained.'] 

The admirable steel engraving cannot fail to impart to the reader 
a very impressive idea of the exterior appearance of the buildings : 
and, of the many sketch plans and diagrams of the interior of the 
premises that I have seen, the accompanying one is the best. And 
being not only approved by writers of the traditionary school, but 
quite in accordance with the large official plan given me by the 
architect effendi, it will serve the purpose of giving a sufficiently 
correct idea of the internal arrangements of this extensive group 
of buildings, without encumbering the subject with the details of 
the large Turkish plan. 

Passing through the motley groups of pilgrims of every hue and 
dye that throng the "Mart of Holy Wares" in the court of the 
church, the visiter enters the vestibulum through the only door, (1), 
now permitted to remain open ; and is equally surprised and morti- 
fied to find the whole premises under the surveillance of a haughty 
Turkish guard, mounted upon a rude kind of divan on the left, 
well armed with guns, swords, and cowhides — the latter of which, 
at least, they put in requisition on the most trivial occasions, and 
have no special objections to using the former. 

The large marble slab, (3), around which the pilgrim sees so many 
devoutly kneeling, he is gravely told, is the "stone of unction," on 
which our Lord was washed and anointed for burial ! 

Leaving the vestibule, and turning to the left, the pilgrim is shown 
a small circular enclosure, (11), where Mary is said to have stood 
while the body of our Lord was being anointed. 

We next enter a large rotunda, the main body of the building, 
about thirty-three yards in diameter, surrounded by an imposing 
colonnade, supporting the galleries and a lofty dome. It is on a 
slightly-elevated platform, directly beneath the skylight of this 
dome, that we find the beautiful marble iEdicula, or little church, con- 
taining the alleged tomb in which the Lord of Life lay. It is only 
about ten feet in breadth, and twice as much in length and height. 



234 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



The Church of Anastasis or Little Sanctuary. 

The accompanying representation conveys a correct idea of its outer 
appearance under ordinary circumstances; but, during festal occa- 
sions, it is very highly decorated. 




ROTUNDA AND MAUSOLEUM OF CHURCH OF HOLY SEPULCHRE. 



Pilgrims, travellers, and visiters of every hue and dye of the Frank 
order, are expected if not required to make bare both head and foot, 
on entering any of the sacred localities of the Holy City — whether 
Jewish, Moslem, or Christian ; and at this point of his pilgrimage 
through these premises, the visiter is expected to doff his shoes as 
well as his hat ; and if he would escape the scoffs and scowls of cowled 
monks, he must be very careful not to be guilty of crossing his 
hands behind his back — such a posture of ease being regarded as 
very disrespectful by the jealous custodians of the Sepulchre — 
some of whose watchful eyes follow you wherever you go, unless 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



235 



Interior of the Sanctuary. 



The reputed Tomb of Joseph. 



you are seen bowing before some of the shrines and pictures, or 
otherwise indicating, by crossing, kissing, and other bodily exer- 
cise, that you are a devotee of tradition. I once saw an English 
pilgrim of quite respectable exterior, leave the ranks of the proces- 
sion in which he was marching around the corridor, and deliberately 
knock off the hat of a gentleman who was tacitly looking on from 
a short distance. And a gentleman standing by, was next morning 
challenged by the fiery bigot to fight a duel, merely because he had 
ventured a spirited remonstrance. 

Leaving his hat and shoes at the door, the pilgrim enters the ante- 
room of the sepulchre — for although tradition declares that the little 
u sanctuary ," as it is called, was originally a cave of one room, it is 
now found divided into two apartments. In the centre of this ante- 
room is a large block of stone, elevated on a pedestal, which the poor 
beguiled pilgrim is made to believe is the identical stone with which 
the mouth of the sepulchre was once 
stopped ; though the Armenians 
allege with equal confidence that the 
stone they exhibit at the house of 
Caiaphas is the veritable one that 
the " angel rolled back from the door 
and sat upon." The pilgrim, having 
paid his devotions at this shrine, 
enters the inner room through a low 
narrow door. Here, at the right- 
hand on entering, is a marble sarco- 
phagus partially imbedded in ma 
sonry, which tradition declares is the 
identical tomb of the rich man of 
Arimathea, in which the Son of 
God was buried ! And though you 
may give no credit whatever to the 
tradition, and may be heartily dis- 
gusted with the mummery all around, 




236 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Shrine of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. 

yet little is hazarded in saying that when you place your hands on 
that cold marble (as you find yourself doing by involuntary and irre- 
sistible impulse), you will feel an indescribable emotion felt never 
before or since. 

The officiating priest liberally besprinkles you with sanctified rose 
water, and politely offers to consecrate any article you may desire ; 
but still you feel anxious to breathe the open air once more, though 
the sanctuary is well ventilated, and sufficiently lighted by a num- 
ber of lamps of gold, silver, and brass. The accompanying wood 
cut is a very accurate representation of the interior. 

In the rear of the sanctuary is the joint shrine of the Copts, Abys- 
sinians, and Syrians, (15), the most devout apparently of all the sects 
at Jerusalem. And yet the rites and ceremonies performed by these 
poor superstitious creatures are absurd and ridiculous in the extreme. 
The religious antics played off before high Heaven by these semi- 
nude jugglers, when it becomes their turn to march in procession 
around the sepulchre, were enough to make an angel weep ! 

It is part and parcel of the pilgrim's duty to render devotion at 
the tombs of Melchisedec, Joseph of Arimathea, and the honorable 
senator of Israel, situated beyond the colonnade, opposite the cop- 
tic shrine, (16, 17). 

Entering the hall north of rotunda, you are shown the spot where 
Christ stood when he was taken for a gardener by Mary Magdalen, 
indicated by mosaics in the paved floor, (27), and the spot where 
Mary stood also, (28) ; and near these places, on the right, is the 
altar of the Franks, (29). You are now on Roman territory, and 
may hear some delightful music at matin and vespers, from the 
choir and organ in the gallery on the left. 

Proceeding farther on, you enter another room by a low flight of 
steps — the Latin church — in the corner of which (at 30), you are 
permitted to thrust a cane through a small opening and touch some- 
thing which you are told is the "Pillar of Flagellation" to which 
they say Christ was bound when scourged. The " Chapel of the 
Apparition," (32), or place where Christ first appeared to his mother 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



237 



Shrine of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. 

after his resurrection, is also specially pointed out in this room, and 
with equal particularity and assurance, the place of the " recognition 
of the cross," (33). 

Returning through the great rotunda and entering the Greek 
apartment beneath the lofty arched doorway, you observe near the 
middle of this fine large room a small pillar railed in, which infallible 
tradition declares is planted in the centre of the earth, in the very 
spot whence was taken the earth out of which Adam was made ! It 
is called the "navel of the world," and though his tomb is in quite 
another part of the premises, yet they say his skull is buried beside 
this monumental pillar. Passing by the various shrines, thrones, 
and stalls in the Greek apartment, which abounds in puerile orna- 
mentation with gold leaf, lamps, and ostrich eggshells, we enter the 
surrounding corridor, where we find "the Chapel of Mocking," (39), 
the " Chapel of the Parting of the Garments," (38), the " Chapel of 
Longinus the Centurion," (37), the " Chapel of Bonds" — where 
Christ was bound, (35), the " Chapel of the Virgin," (36), the " Cha- 
pel of the Crown of Thorns," &c. 

Descending from this corridor by a long flight of steps, we reach 
an apartment in which are the chapels of " St. Helena" and the 
"Penitent Thief," (41, 42). And descending another flight in the 
south-east corner we reach the small grotto in the lowest spot about 
the premises — the " Chapel of the Cross," (44). 

The chapel or "Mount of Crucifixion," on the "rock Calvary," 
is situated about midway between the sepulchre and the " Chapel 
of the Invention," i. e. about forty yards from each. It is reached 
by ascending a flight of steps said to be cut in the solid rock, but 
the entire surface being covered with marble or other stone, it is 
impossible to see the native limestone except where openings are 
left to exhibit the alleged holes in which the crosses were set, and 
the rent made in the rock. The Mount of Crucifixion is said to be 
a solid oval-shaped rock, about eight or ten yards in length, and 
half that breadth, but there is no proof whatever that there is any 
live-rock within the masonry — and in the present state of the case, 



238 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Shrine of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. 

it is impossible to say whether the holes and the "rent" are really 
in an elevation of native rock, or in a few isolated stones, duly pre- 
pared by pious hammer and chisel operation, to testify for the crosses 
and the earthquake. 

The identification and aggregation of so many sites of important 
events within so small a compass is an absurdity at which credulity 
itself must stagger, and the most ardent devotee of tradition stand 
abashed. 



■ 



CHAPTER IX. 

THE TEMPLE. 

u See what manner of stones and what buildings are here !" 

"Palaces, temples, and piles stupendous, 
Whose very ruins are tremendous." 

The splendid Temple of Solomon, which was reared by that great 
monarch according to the divinely ordered model * delivered to him 
by his father, and dedicated A. M. 3001, was entirely destroyed by 
Nebuchadnezzar four hundred and twenty-four years afterwards. 
Its reedification was commenced sixty-nine years subsequently by 
Zerubbabel ; but, owing to the numerous hindrances of those " trou- 
blous times," it was not completed till 511 B. C, when it was dedi- 
cated, seventy-three years after its destruction by Nebuchadnezzar. 
It was " this house ,"f as reedified and beautified by Herod the Great, 
that was filled with glory by the " Desire of all nations," and finally 
destroyed by the Romans A. D. 70. " Forty and six years was this 
temple in building" (John ii. 20), up to the first year of the Saviour's 
ministry, and was not even then completed, notwithstanding Herod 
had spent two whole years in the collection of materials, and constantly 



* See 1 Chr. xxviii. 11, 12, 19. Haggai appears not only to identify the Zerub- 

f But, although the sacred fane has existed babel Temple with that of Solomon, but it 

under several different phases, and it is com- would seem that the future Millennial Temple 

mon to designate them as first, second, and may also be regarded as identical — as would 

third Temples, yet it may be properly spoken appear from a comparison of 2 Chr. ii. 3-9, 

of as only one Temple : and the prophet with Heb. xii. 26. 



240 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Size of the various Temples. 

kept employed ten thousand artificers under the supervision of one 
thousand priests. Tacitus well characterized this superb structure 
as a " temple of immense wealth" — " immensce opulentice templum." 

The temple of Zerubbabel is usually said to have been double the 
size of that of Solomon ; but if the dimensions given in the 6th 
chapter of Ezra (3d verse) relate to the main building, as they most 
obviously do, then it was even less in length, no greater in breadth, 
and only half its height. Certain it is that it was not " magnifical" 
like that of the magnificent king, neither in material nor fabric. 
Herod's temple was ten cubits longer than Solomon's, and thirty 
longer than Zerubbabel's. It exceeded them likewise in breadth. 
And while it was forty cubits higher than Zerubbabel's, it was 
twenty less than Solomon's, except during the short period that the 
twenty extra cubits of wooden structure remained on its summit. 
It is probable, however, that the Temple proper, or the Holy House 
itself (i. e. the Holy Place and the Holy of Holies), was identical 
in each of these temples — the variations in size occurring only in the 
circumjacent chambers, and the pronaos, vestibule or porch. But 
it was only Solomon's Temple that could boast of the Ark, the 
Mercy Seat, the Shechinah, the Holy Fire, and the Urim and 
Thummim. 

The Temple of Herod, immediately previous to its destruction by 
Titus, is that referred to in the following pages, unless otherwise 
expressly specified ; and, as Josephus and the Talmud are almost 
the only authorities besides the brief descriptions contained in 
"Kings and Chronicles," I shall make large extracts from their 
detailed statements, in elucidation of the Bible account. Indeed, 
with the aid of the carefully and minutely executed plans, eleva- 
tions, and sections, but little verbal description will be necessary to 
the fullest elucidation of the subject. It must be remembered, how- 
ever, that the term " Temple" is used by Josephus and indeed by 
all authors, not excepting the sacred writers, with considerable lati- 
tude of meaning. In its most restricted sense it is used only to 
designate the Holy House, but very generally also not only the 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



241 



Location of the Temple. 

Courts of the Priests, Israel, and the Women, but also that of the Gen- 
tiles. In a still wider sense the term is likewise used by Josephus 
so indefinitely as to include the Tower of Antonia as well as its 
yard, courts, &c, &c. The term sanctuary is used with less lati- 
tude of application, and is generally applicable no farther than the 
Court of Israel. But yet Ezekiel designates the entire enclosure 
of one mile square by this term in describing the Millennial Temple.* 

That the Temple was situated somewhere within the oblong en- 
closure on Mount Moriah, all topographers are agreed, although 
there is not the slightest vestige of the sacred fane now remaining ; 
and the greatest diversity of sentiment prevails as to its exact 
position within that large area. Some would restrict it to a square 
of six hundred feet in its south-west corner ; others would place it 
exactly in the centre of the area ; others again would make the 
large rock under the Kubbet es-Sakhrah the very rock on which 
Abraham offered up Isaac, and David sacrificed to stay the hand of 
the destroying angel,f and hence assign it a conspicuous place in 
the Temple, as the site of the Altar of Burnt Offerings, the Altar 
of Incense, or the Ark of the Testimony. But these are all, most 
evidently, mislocations — the limits of the first location being too 
contracted, those of the second entirely too extensive, and any 
allotment of the es-Sakhrah within the area of the Holy House or 
contiguous courts being entirely irreconcilable, not only with its 
relative position and elevation, but its actual size. 

The Holy Place was forty cubits long, and twenty wide, and the 
Holy of Holies only twenty cubits square ; of course, then, this 
huge rock, which is sixty feet in length (north and south), and fifty- 

* 'lepdv is the the term generally rendered corded 2 Sam. xxiv., and 1 Chr. xxi., and 

Temple in the instances above referred to ; xxii. 1 ; in the former, David is said to have 

which generally means the Temple or fane, " bought the threshing -floor and the oxen for 

with its courts and appurtenances ; while fifty shekels of silver ;" and, in the latter, to 

Naoff is restricted to the Holy House; and have given " to Oman, for the place, six hun- 

Upovaov applies alone to the porch or vesti- dred shekels of gold;" — purchasing no more 

bule. at first than the rock itself, but afterward a 

f The narrative of this transaction is re- large portion of Mount Moriah. 
16 



242 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Araunah's threshing-floor. 

five in breadth (east and west), could not be accommodated in either 
of those apartments, upon any known computation of the cubit 
whatever. It is also far too large to have been included beneath 
the altar of Solomon, which was only twenty cubits square. But 
even were it small enough, it is not sufficiently elevated : for 
whereas, this rock is only about fifteen feet above the surrounding 
surface of the ground, the floor of the Court of the Priests, on 
which the Altar of Burnt Offerings was reared, was about forty feet 
above the general level. We also learn from the Talmud that the 
Holy House was reared upon a substructure of masonry forty feet 
in thickness, which of course entirely precludes the idea of the 
Sakhrah being its floor. 

The belief that this rock is the identical threshing-floor of Araunah, 
the Jebusite, is almost universally entertained ; and could it be iden- 
tified as such, would be decisive as to the general location of the 
"House of the Lord God;" but that it is that memorable spot, is 
improbable in the highest degree. For it is by no means level 
enough for such a purpose — being considerably higher in the middle 
than elsewhere, and sloping irregularly in different directions. 
Rising too, as it does, nearly perpendicularly to a height of eight or 
ten feet, it could never have been sufficiently accessible for a thresh- 
ing-floor. The narrative seems to require a surface much more 
even than this, and depressed, rather than elevated. The altar of 
David is several times said (both in Chronicles and Kings, as well 
as Josephus) to have been reared "m" the threshing-floor of Arau- 
nah — "therein" a circumstance in no way applicable to the present 
or any other prominently projecting rock ; but sufficiently applicable 
to a low flat surface, especially if surrounded by other rocks or 
shrubbery. 

The declaration of David that " this is the House of the Lord, 
and this is the altar of burnt offering for Israel" (1 Chr. xxii. 1), 
though evidently seeming to indicate the locality of either the 
house or the altar, yet, when it is remembered that Jacob used lan- 
guage concerning a certain spot at Bethel, almost identical with 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



243 



Holy House not built on es-Sakhra. 

this, it may be understood in a more general sense. But still, as 
we learn (2 Chr. iii. 1) that " Solomon built the House of the Lord 
at Jerusalem, in the Mount Moriah, where the Lord appeared to 
David his father, in the place that David had prepared in the thresh- 
ing-floor of Araunah the Jebusite," we could but locate it there, 
provided such a rock could now be found. It is not very likely, 
however, that the polytheistic, Jew-hating Hadrian would allow such 
a memorial of the one living and true God to remain, as the foun- 
dation marks of the Temple would be. In erecting his celebrated 
temple to Jupiter Capitolinus (when this idol-loving monarch even 
changed the name of the City of the Great King to iElia, after his 
own name), he would doubtless remove all the landmarks of the 
place selected by Jehovah to record his name ; and had the present 
es-Sakhrah in any way appertained to the Temple, not a vestige of 
it would have been permitted to remain — religious and political con- 
siderations equally concurring to forbid such a piece of impolicy. 

But, allowing the present southern boundary of the Haram es- 
SherifF to be coincident with that of the ancient Temple — of which 
scarcely a doubt can be entertained — the area assigned to the 
Temple, both by Josephus and the Talmud, presents an insuperable 
argument against the supposition that the es-Sakhra could have 
fallen within the Holy House or anywhere in its immediate vicinity. 
But in order to understand the subject the better, we must first 
bring Antonia under consideration. 

Antonia, though devoted alone to military purposes, was considered 
an integral portion of the Temple, being indeed the fortress of the 
Temple, as the Temple was of the city : it is expedient, therefore, to 
bring them under consideration thus connected. We are entirely 
indebted to the learned Jewish historian so often quoted, for all we 
know concerning this fortress ; but so complete is his description 
that we have but little occasion to regret the silence of the Talmud 
and other ancient writings about it. (See Wars v. v : 2, 8. Ant. 
xv. 4, 7.) 

The Maccabees, finding the citadel on Akra better calculated to 



244 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Autonia. 

overawe the temple, when in the hands of an enemy, than to defend 
it, when possessed by themselves, doomed it to destruction in the 
reign of Simon, about 140 B. C, and in lieu of it erected this for- 
tress, probably in the reign of John Hyrcanus. "It was of old called 
Baris or the Citadel ; but afterwards got the name of Antonia, 
when Anthony was lord of the East, about which time Herod the 
Great re-fortified it and named it in honor of his great benefactor ;" 
but it was not until his thorough reparation of the Temple and its 
appurtenances that it was finally completed — being then made no less 
a palace than a fortress. 

The Acropolis, or fort itself, was situated at the north-west corner 
of the great quadrangular enclosure of Mount Moriah ; but its exten- 
sive colonnades, courts, and appendages, extended as far as the sacred 
edifices, and covered an area about equal to that included within the 
outer cloisters of the Temple. The native rock upon which the 
citadel stood, was at the junction of the northern and western 
cloisters — being fifty cubits high and covered with polished stones, 
within which (on its top) was a wall three cubits high, and within 
this enclosure the main citadel was erected to the height of forty 
additional cubits. As to the interior space between this acropolis 
and the northern wall of the Temple enclosure (properly speaking), 
it " had the largeness and form of a palace, being parted into all 
kinds of rooms and other conveniences, such as courts and places 
for bathing, and broad spaces for camps ; insomuch, that having all 
conveniences that cities wanted, it might seem to be composed of 
several cities, but by its magnificence it seemed to be a palace." 
The elevation on which the citadel stood was made by cutting through 
the Hill Bezetha. The mound thus isolated was trimmed down per- 
pendicularly on the south and indeed all round. All the rocky sur- 
face in the north-west corner of the great area of the Temple was 
reduced, while the south-east corner was elevated on piers and arches 
in order to produce a uniform surface. The height of the Antonia 
rock at present is only twenty or thirty feet. 

Besides this great tower on the rock at the north-west corner, it 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



245 



Relative dimensions of the Antonia and Temple areas. 

had also others at or near the three other corners, two of which were 
fifty cubits in height, but that at the south-east corner was no less 
than seventy cubits high, and commanded a fine interior view of the 
temple and its entire premises. The Acropolis was entirely sepa- 
rated from the Hill Bezetha, of which it was formerly a continuation, 
by a very deep trench cut through the solid rock. This huge L- 
shaped tower communicated with the massive cloisters that entirely 
surrounded the remainder of the fortress, at its inner angle. The 
exact extent of Antonia is nowhere specified ; but we learn from 
Josephus (Wars iii. v : 2), that inclusive of the Temple it was six 
stadia : and as we are told (Ant. xi. xv : 3), that the Temple was a 
stadium on each side, it follows, of course, that these were also the 
general dimensions of Antonia. And that the entire enclosure of 
the Temple mount was a kind of oblong figure, capable of being 
reduced nearer to the form of a true square, we may also safely 
infer, from a remark made by Josephus on the capture of Antonia 
by the Roman army, that " the Jews by demolishing the Tower of 
Antonia had made their Temple four-square, while at the same time 
they had it written in their sacred oracles — that then should their 
city be taken, as well as their Holy House, when once their Temple 
should become four-square." An " occult passage" was constructed 
by Herod between the fortress Antonia and the Nicanor or Corin- 
thian Gate, on the eastern side of the inner court of the Temple, 
where he erected a tower " that he might the more easily be enabled 
to quell any sudden insurrection of the people." But, to return to 
the consideration of the Temple area, properly so called. 

A line running east and west across the area, along the upper side 
of the Sakhrah, makes the following apportionment of its upper 
and lower divisions : — for the lower or Temple portion, south wall 
916, east 820, north 975, west 870: for the upper or Antonia 
enclosure, south 975, east 710, north 1030, west 730. The lower 
portion or Temple area is thus found to be nearly square, though 
only one or at most two of its corners is an exact right angle. The 
upper portion thus assigned to Antonia, though differing consider- 



246 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Hebrew mensuration. 

ably from an exact square (as must necessarily always have been 
the case), yet is very nearly the same in capacity — being only one 
hundred and thirty-six feet less than the lower division, and inclusive 
of the tower around its north-west corner, exceeds it about two 
hundred feet — the one being 3581 feet, and the other 3445, exclu- 
sive of the tower. The area of Mount Moriah is thus divided into 
two distinct and nearly equal precincts, as the statements of Jose- 
phus require. But, though thus divided in accordance with the re- 
quirements of Josephus and the indications of the ground, yet, 
according to the ordinary estimate of Hebrew measures, the dimen- 
sions of these precincts considerably exceed those assigned them, 
not only by Josephus, but by the still larger estimates of the Tal- 
mud : — the former rating each side at 400 cubits (or a stadium), and 
the latter at 500 cubits. But the greatest diversity of opinion exists 
amongst archaeologists in relation to the value of the cubit, stadium, 
&c, and it therefore becomes necessary to ascertain the length of 
these measures before we can proceed intelligently in our investi- 
gations. 

The Jews, as well as other ancient nations, not only made use 
of different cubits and stadia or furlongs at different times, but also 
at the same time ; and this too without the slightest specification : 
hence the necessity of research and discrimination on our part, if 
we would avoid erroneous conclusions. We may reasonably con- 
clude that the Hebrew cubit was identical with the Egyptian Derah, 
(or drah, as the pik* or cubit is pronounced at Jerusalem), which 
being used for gauging the waters of the Nile, has, no doubt, been 
preserved unaltered — a conclusion that receives some corroboration 
from the fact that it exactly measures certain rooms found in the 
Great Pyramids without excess or deficiency. Possessing no metri- 
cal standards of their own, and yet having constant occasion for 
measures, it is not at all improbable that the oppressed Israelites 
brought with them from Egypt the measures to which they had there 
become accustomed. 



From IljjXtts, a cubit. 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



247 



Comparative value of the cubit, palin, stadium, &c. 

The Egyptian cubit or drah, as found on existing nilometers, is 
as 1824 compared with the English foot as 1000 ; or 21.8888 inches 
long. A cubit found at Memphis was 6 palms or 24 fingers on one 
side ; and the other was 4 fingers greater. 

The « cubit after a man" is the distance between the elbow and 
the tip of the middle finger, one-fourth the height of a well propor- 
tioned man, and is divided into 6 minor palms of four fingers each 
(24 fingers in all), and hence its division into 24 parts or finger- 
breadths. The average length of this cubit may fairly be set down 
at the usual estimate, 18 inches. 

The « common cubit" is also estimated at 18 inches. 

Some of the Rabbins rate the cubit at only 15 inches or 5 hand- 
breadths, and hence allow 18 inches only to the measure styled " a 
cubit and a hand-breadth." 

Another Rabbinical estimate is 24 inches. But the Talmudists 
rate it at 22J inches, adding a fourth to the Roman cubit. 

The « sacred cubit" is by some supposed to have been 36 inches. 

The Constantinople cubit, pik or drah, is 30 inches ; and the- 
" builder's drah" of Jerusalem in common use, varies in length from 
25 to 26J inches. 

The Arab cubit is rated at 18 inches, and the Greek and Roman 
cubits are just about the same — the former probably a fraction more, 
the latter a little less. 

But although the Jewish cubit, in the earlier periods of their 
history, may have been identical with the Egyptian, it is by no 
means improbable that, when they came under the dominion of the 
Romans, they made much use of their metrical system, even though 
they may not have adopted it altogether. And this conjecture cer- 
tainly derives some support from a circumstance mentioned by Jose- 
phus, in which he incidentally gives us a clue to the comparative 
value of the cubit and stadium. In describing the Temple he makes 
use of the stadium, cubit, and foot ; and several times makes the 
stadium or furlong the equivalent of 400 cubits. If, then, the value 



248 



CITY OF THE GEE AT KING. 



Jewish metrical system — cubit — stadium. 

of the stadium can be satisfactorily ascertained, we are at once fur- 
nished with a key to the estimates of Josephus and those of the 
Talmud too — for although different dimensions are assigned by these 
authorities for the walls of the Temple area, yet there is such a 
general agreement in their admeasurements within, that the same 
cubit, is, no doubt, used by both — the above estimate being merely 
conjectural. 

A stadium, it would appear from the best authorities, contains 
600 feet, Greek measure ; and the Greek foot bearing the ratio of 
25 to 24 compared with the Roman, 625 Roman feet constitute a 
stadium. Now, the Greek foot is rather longer, and the Roman 
rather shorter than the English — the former being as 12.135 inches 
to 12 of English measure, and the latter about 11.650. About 
606f feet English measure, therefore, make a stadium or furlong, 
and are the equivalent of 600 Greek feet, and 625 Roman. On 
this computation — 400 cubits being equal to the stadium of 606f 
feet (Eng.) — the cubit used by Josephus must be 1.517 feet ; but for 
facility of calculation the small fraction of seventeen-thousandths 
may ordinarily be disregarded, and 18 inches be adopted as the 
value of the cubit under consideration. A larger estimate, it is 
true, would serve much better to reconcile some of the statements 
of Josephus to the stern requirements of existing localities ; but on 
the other hand, were it smaller, it would be better adapted to the 
adjustment of certain other difficulties. A fact mentioned by Chry- 
sostom, in relation to the low stature of the Apostle Paul, may not 
be without relevancy and significancy in the settlement of this ques- 
tion. Had the cubit been more than 18 inches it would scarcely 
have been deemed a fact sufficiently notable to justify the record, 
that he was "only 3 cubits high" — 4J feet; and, on the contrary, 
had it been less, Lucian, the satirizing Christian-hater, would not 
have failed to harp upon the Lilliputian stature of the " high-nosed, 
bald-pated Galilean," as he derisively terms him. 

We are now prepared to understand and appreciate the following 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 249 
The Temple described by Aristeas. 

account of the sacred fane and its appurtenances, collated from the 
works of Aristeas, Tacitus, Josephus,* and the Talmud. 

Aristeas gives the following brief account of the Temple and its 
servicesf in writing to his brother Philocrates. » The city is situ- 
ated in the midst of mountains on a lofty hill, whose crest is crowned 
by the magnificent Temple, girt with three walls, seventy cubits 
high, of proportionate thickness and length, corresponding to the 
extent of the building. Its costly portals, with its jambs and lintels, 
were very worthy of admiration ; and the vail, resembling gates in 
appearance, was a pleasing object to contemplate, as it waved per- 
petually to the passing breeze throughout its whole length. The 
altar, suitable to the place, and to the burnt sacrifices that were 
offered thereon, had an ascent well arranged for the services of the 
priests, who ministered in garments of fine linen reaching to their 
ankles. The Temple had an eastern aspect ; its spacious court, 
paved throughout with marble, covered immense reservoirs contain- 
ing large supplies of water, which gushed out by artificial con- 
trivance to wash off the blood of the numerous sacrifices offered 
there on the festivals. The order and reverence of the ministering 
priests, and the undivided attention with which they waited on their 
respective duties, many of which were very arduous, was truly ad- 
mirable. To some was assigned the charge of the wood, to others 
the oil, or the fine flour, or sweet spices; others exhibited great 
strength and dexterity in heaving and burning the holocausts of 
bullocks and sheep. Yet such deep silence prevailed that you would 
imagine the place to be devoid of men, although there were seven 
hundred ministering, and a vast multitude more bringing up the 
sacrifices. With such awe and reverence, worthy of a great Deity, 
were the proceedings conducted. Nor did the high priest Eleazar 
inspire less veneration while performing the sacred service, setting 

* Whiston's Josephus, London, 1852, is in the ordinary type of the work being 

the edition referred to. It will be borne in chargeable to the Editor, and those italicised 

mind that no words included in brackets are to myself. 

any part of the original text : those bracketed f I adopt the version of Mr. Williams. 



250 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Description of the Temple by Tacitus and Hecateus. 



off to the best advantage his vestments of glor y and beauty, adorned 
with precious stones, and surrounded at the skirts with golden bells, 
alternated with pomegranates, girt about with a richly variegated 
girdle ; bearing on his breast the oracle set with twelve different 
stones, according to the names of the tribes of Israel ; and on his 
head the mitre, worn over the linen bonnet and exhibiting the name 
of God engraven on a golden plate over the forehead." 

Tacitus remarks that "the Temple itself was a strong fortress, in 
the nature of a citadel. The fortifications were built with consum- 
mate skill, surpassing in art as well as labor all the rest of the works. 
The very porticoes that surrounded it were a strong defence." 

And Josephus, in writing "against Apion" (ii. 22), thus extracts 
from Hecateus' description : — " There is about the middle of the 
city a wall of stone (his allusion is evidently to the Holy House and 
its immediate court), the length of which is five hundred feet, and 
the breadth a hundred cubits, with double cloisters, wherein there 
is a square altar, not made of hewn stone, but composed of white 
stones gathered together : having each side twenty cubits. Hard 
by it is a large edifice, wherein there is an altar, and a candlestick, 
both of gold, and in weight two talents ; upon these there is a light 
that is never extinguished, neither by night nor by day. There is 
no image, nor anything, nor any donations therein ; nothing at all 
is there planted, neither grove nor anything of that sort. The 
priests abide therein, both nights and days, performing certain puri- 
fications, and drinking not the least drop of wine while they are in 
the Temple." 

"1. Now this Temple, as I have already said, was built upon a strong hill." (Ant. viii. 
iii: 2.) "The king laid the foundations of the temple very deep in the ground, and the 
materials were strong stones, and such as would resist the force of time; these were to 
unite themselves with the earth, and become a basis and a sure foundation for that super- 
structure which was to be erected over it : they were to be so strong in order to sustain with 
ease those vast superstructures and precious ornaments, whose own weight was to be not 
less than the weight of those other high and heavy buildings which the king designed to 
be very ornamental and magnificent." 

" At first the plain at the top was hardly sufficient for the holy 
house and the altar ; for the ground about it was very uneven, and 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



251 



Temple described by Josephus. 

like a precipice ; but when King Solomon, who was the person that 
built the Temple, had built a wall to it on its east side, there was 
then added one cloister founded on a bank cast up for it, and on 
the other parts the holy house stood naked ; but in future ages the 
people added new banks, and the hill became a larger plain. They 
then broke down the wall on the north side, and took in as much as 
sufficed afterward for the compass of the entire temple ; and when 
they had built walls on three sides of the Temple round about, from 
the bottom of the hill, and had performed a work that was greater 
than could be hoped for (in which work long ages were spent by 
them, as well as all their sacred treasures were exhausted, which 
were still replenished by those tributes which were sent to God from 
the whole habitable earth), they then encompassed their upper courts 
with cloisters, as well as they [afterward] did the lowest [court of 
the] Temple. 

" The lowest part of this [wall occupying the depths of the ravines'] 
was erected to the height of three hundred cubits, and in some 
places more ;* yet did not the entire depth of the foundations appear, 
for they brought earth and filled up the valleys, [that intersected 
the east side of Moriah~\ y as being desirous to make them on a level 
with the narrow streets of the city, wherein they made use of stones 
of forty cubits in magnitude ; for the great plenty of money they 
then had, and the liberality of the people, made this attempt of 
theirs to succeed to an incredible degree ; and what could not be so 
much as hoped for as ever to be accomplished, was, by perseverance 
and length of time, brought to perfection. 

Ant. xv. xi : 3. " The hill was a rocky ascent that declined by degrees towards the east 
parts of the city till it came to an elevated level. This hill it was which Solomon, who was 
the first of our kings, by Divine revelation encompassed with a wall; it was of excellent 
workmanship upwards, and round the top of it. He also built a wall below, beginning at the 



* This, of course, is greatly exaggerated; valley at Absalom's Pillar being only one 

for the entire difference of level between the hundred and twenty -five feet below the base 

Kedron Valley opposite the Temple and the of the south-east corner of the Temple; and 

top of the royal cloister could only have the Tyropceon could not certainly have been 

been two hundred and eighty-seven feet! the much more depressed than the Kedron. 



252 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Temple described by Josephus. 

bottom, which was encompassed by a deep valley; and at the south side he laid rocks to- 
gether, and bound them one to another with lead, and included some of the inner parts, till 
it proceeded to a great height, and till both the largeness of the square edifice and its alti- 
tude were immense, and till the vastness of the stones in the front were plainly visible on 
the outside, yet so that the inward parts were fastened together with iron, and preserved the 
joints immovable for all future times. When the work [for the foundation] was done in 
this manner, and joined together as part of the hill itself to the very top of it, he wrought 
it all into one outward surface, and filled up the hollow places* which were about the wall, 
and made it a level on the external upper surface, and a smooth level also. This hill was 
walled all around, and in compass four furlongs [exclusive of Antonio] [the distance of] each 
angle containing in length a furlong : but within this wall, and on the very top of all, there 
ran another wall of stone also, having on the east quarter a double cloister of the same 
length with the wall ; in the midst of which was the temple itself. This cloister looked to 
the gates of the temple ; and it had been adorned by many kings in former times ; and 
round about the entire temple were fixed the spoils taken from barbarous nations ; all these 
had been dedicated to the temple by Herod, with the addition of those he had taken from 
the Arabians." 

" 2. Now, for the works that were above these foundations, these 
were not unworthy of such foundations ; for all the cloisters were 
double, and the pillars to them belonging were twenty-five cubits in 
height, and supported the cloisters. These pillars were of one 
entire stone each of them, and that stone was white marble ; and 
the roofs were adorned with cedar, curiously graven. The natural 
magnificence and excellent polish, and the harmony of the joints in 
these cloisters, afforded a prospect that was very remarkable ; nor 
was it on the outside adorned with any work of the painter or 
engraver. The cloisters [of the outmost court] were in breadth 
thirty cubits, while the entire compass of it was, by measure, six 
furlongs including the Tower of Antonia ; those entire courts that 
were exposed to the air were laid with stones of all sorts." 

Ant. xv. xi : 5. " Now, in the western quarter of the enclosures of the temple there 
were four gates ; the first led to the king's palace, and went to a passage over the interme- 
diate valley; two more led [underneath'] to the suburbs of the city [Parbar west of the Tem- 
ple;] and the last led to the other city, [Akra,] where the road descended down into the 
valley by a great number of steps, and thence up again by the ascent ; for the city lay over 
against the temple in the manner of a theatre, and was encompassed with a deep valley 
along the entire south quarter; but the fourth front of the temple, which was southward, 



* This, of course, is merely a general ex- corner and the subterranean avenues, are to 
pression; for it is evident that various reser- be excepted, 
voirs, the substructures of the south-east 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



253 



Temple described by Josephus. 

had, indeed, itself gates in its middle, as also it had the royal cloisters, with three walks, 
which reached in length from the east valley unto that on the west, for it was impossible it 
should reach any farther : and this cloister deserves to be mentioned better than any other 
under the sun ; for while the valley was very deep, and its bottom could not be seen, if you 
looked from above into the depth, this farther vastly high elevation of the cloister stood 
upon that height, insomuch that if any one looked down from the top of the battlements, 
or down both those altitudes, he would be giddy, while his sight could not reach to such an 
immense depth. The cloister had pillars that stood in four rows one over against the other 
all along j for the fourth row was interwoven into the wall, which [also was built of stone;] 
and the thickness of each pillar was such that three men might, with their arms extended, 
fathom it round, and join their hands again ; while its length was twenty-seven feet, with a 
double spiral at its basis ; and the number of all the pillars [in that court] was an hundred 
and sixty-two. Their chapiters were made with sculptures after the Corinthian order, and 
caused an amazement [to the spectators] by reason of the grandeur of the whole. 

" These four rows of pillars included three intervals for walking in the middle of this 
cloister; two of which walks were made parallel to each other, and were contrived after the 
same manner; the breadth of each of them was thirty feet, the length was a furlong, and 
the height fifty feet : but the breadth of the middle part of the cloister was one and a half 
of the other, and the height was double, for it was much higher than those on each side ; 
but the roofs* were adorned with deep sculptures in wood, representing many sorts of figures ; 
the middle was much higher than the rest, and the wall of the front was adorned with 
beams, resting upon pillars, that were interwoven into it, and that front was all polished 
stone, insomuch that its fineness, to such as had not seen it, was incredible, and to such as 
had seen it was greatly amusing." 

Ant. viii. iii : 9. "But he made that temple which was beyond this, a wonderful one 
indeed, and such as exceeds all description in words; nay, if I may so say, is hardly believed 
upon sight; for when he bad filled up great valleys with earth, which, on account of their 
immense depth, could not be looked on when you bended down to see them, without pain, 
and had elevated the ground [/or tlie space of] four hundred cubits, he made it to be on a 
levelf with the top of the mountain on which the temple was built, and by this means the 
outmost temple, which was exposed to the air, was evenf with the temple itself. He encom- 
passed this also with a building of a double row of cloisters, which stood on high upon pil- 
lars of native stone, while the roofs were of cedar, and were polished in a manner proper 
for such high roofs ; but he made all the doors of this temple of silver." 

" When you go through these [first] cloisters, unto the second 
[court of the] temple, there was a partition made of stone all round, 
whose height was three cubits, [theThrigcos, G-ison or Sacred Fence] :% 



* Roofs : this word seems generally to be 
used by Josephus in this descriptive essay as 
the equivalent of ceiling. 

f In this allusion to the even surface of 
the Temple area, he is speaking only in gene- 
ral terms; for he elsewhere specifies their 
relative elevations. 



J The Talmud says it was wood, and ten 
hand-breadths high. It was probably a 
wooden balustrade of that height, supported 
by stone pillars, and a foundation of stone 
about a cubit and a half in height. 



254 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Temple described by Josephus. 

its construction was very elegant ; upon it stood pillars, at equal 
distances from one another, declaring the law of purity, some in 
Greek, and some in Roman letters, that "no foreigner should go 
within that Sanctuary;" for that second [court of the] temple was 
called » the Sanctuary," and was ascended to by fourteen steps from 
the first court. This court was four-square, and had a wall about 
it peculiar to itself ; the height of its buildings, although it was on 
the outside forty cubits, was hidden by the steps, and on the inside 
that height was but twenty-five cubits ; for it being built over against 
a higher part of the hill with steps, it was no farther to be entirely 
discerned within, being covered by the hill itself." 

Ant. xv. xi ; 5. " Thus was the first enclosure. In the midst 
of which, and not far from it, was the second, to be gone up to by 
a few steps : this was encompassed by a stone* wall for a partition, 
with an inscription, which forbade any foreigner to go in, under 
pain of death. 

" Beyond these fourteen steps there was the distance of ten cubits, 
[Chell or Rampart] : this was all plain, whence there were other 
steps, each of five cubits apiece, that led to the gate, which gates 
on the north and south sides were eight, on each of these sides four, 
and of necessity two on the east ; for since there was a partition 
built for the women on that side, as the proper place wherein they 
were to worship, there was a necessity of a second gate for them : 
this gate was cut out of its wall, over against the first gate." 

Ant. xv. xi : 5. " Now this inner enclosure had on its southern and northern quarters 
threef gates [equally] distant from one another; but on the east quarter, towards the sun- 
rising, there was one large gate [the 'Beautiful'] through which such as were pure came in, 
together with their wives ; but the temple farther inward in that gate was not allowed to 
the women — [unless they brought a sacrifice.] 

"7. There was also an occult passage built for the king; it led from Antonia to the inner 
temple, at its eastern gate [the Nicanor], over which he also erected for himself a tower, 
that he might have the opportunity of a subterraneous ascent to the temple, in order to 
guard against any sedition which might be made by the people against their kings.J 



* See note J on preceding page. J It does not distinctly appear whether 
f He here omits the fourth, giving admit- this subterranean passage terminated at Ni- 
tance into the women's court; but elsewhere canor or the Beautiful Gate; but it was pro- 
supplies the omission. bably Nicanor. 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 255 
Temple described by Josephus. 

" There was also on the other sides one southern and one northern 
gate, through which was a passage into the court of the women ; for 
as to the other gate, the women were not allowed to pass through 
them ; nor when they went through their own gate could they go 
beyond their own wall, except to lay hands on. their sacrifice. This 
place was allotted to the women of our own country, and of other 
countries, provided they were of the same nation, and that equally ; 
the western part of this court had no gate at all, but the wall was 
built entire on that side ; but then the cloisters which were betwixt 
the gates, extended from the wall inward, before the chambers ; for 
they were supported by very fine and large pillars. These cloisters 
were single, and, excepting their magnitude, were no way inferior 
to those of the lower court." 

Ant. viii. iii : 9. " He also built beyond this court [court of the Gentiles] a temple [or 
inner court], the figure of which was that of a quadrangle, and erected for it great and 
broad cloisters ; this was entered into by very high gates, each of which had its front 
exposed to one of the [four] winds, and were shut by golden doors. Into this [court of the] 
temple all the people entered that were distinguished from the rest by being pure and 
observant of the laws." 

" 3. Now nine of these gates were on every side covered over 
with gold and silver, as were the jambs of their doors and their lin- 
tels ; but there was one gate that was without [the inward court of] 
the Holy House, which was of Corinthian brass, and greatly excelled 
those that were only covered over with silver and gold. Each gate 
had two doors, whose height was severally thirty cubits, and their 
breadth fifteen. However, they had large spaces within of thirty 
cubits, and had on each side rooms, and those both in breadth and 
in length, built like towers, and their height was above forty cubits. 
Two pillars did also support these rooms, and were in circumference 
twelve cubits. Now the magnitude of the other gates were equal 
one to another ; but that over the Corinthian Gate, which opened 
on the east over against the gate of the Holy House itself, was much 
larger ; for its height was fifty cubits ; and its doors were forty 
cubits ; and it was adorned after a most costly manner, as having 
much richer and thicker plates of silver and gold upon them than 



256 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Temple described by Josephus. 

the other. These nine gates had that silver and gold poured upon 
them by Alexander, the father of Tiberius. Now there were fifteen 
steps, which led away from the wall of the court of the women to 
this greater gate ; whereas those that led thither from the other 
gates were five steps shorter." 

Ant. xv. xi : 5. " But still more inward there was a third [court 
of the] temple, beyond the court of Israel, [called the court of the 
priests), whereinto it was not lawful for any but the priests to enter. 
The temple itself was within this : and before that temple was the 
altar upon which we offer our sacrifices and burnt offerings to God. 

"4. As to the holy house itself, which was placed in the midst [of 
the inmost court] that most sacred part of the temple, it was 
ascended to by twelve steps ; and in front its height and its breadth 
were equal, and each a hundred cubits [i. e. the pronaon~\, though it 
was behind forty cubits narrower ;* for on its front it had what may 
be styled shoulders on each side, that passed twenty cubits farther." 

Ant. viii. iii : 2. " They erected its entire body, quite up to the roof, of white stone ; its 
height was sixty cubits, and its length was the same and its breadth twenty. There was 
another building erected over it [i. e. over the pronaon or porch], equal to it in its measures; 
so that the entire altitude of the temple was a hundred and twenty cubits. Its front was to 
the east. As to the porch, they built it before the temple : its length was twenty cubits, 
and it was so ordered that it might agree with the breadth of the houses ; and it had twelve 
cubits in latitude, and its height was raised as high as a hundred and twenty cubits." 

Ant. xv. xi : 3. " So Herod took away the old foundations, and laid others, and erected 
the temple upon them, [the pronaon] being in length a hundred cubits, and in height twenty 
additional cubits, which [twenty] upon the sinking of their foundations, fell down : and 
this part it was that we resolved to raise again in the days of Nero. Now the temple was 
built of stones that were white and strong, and each of their lengths was twenty-five cubits, 
their height was eight, and their breadth about twelve; and the whole structure, as also the 
structure of the royal cloister, was on each side much lower, but the middle was much 
higher, till they were visible to those that dwelt in the country for a great many furlongs, 
but chiefly to such as lived over against them, and those that approached to them. The 
temple had doors also at the entrance, and lintels over them, of the same height with the 
[interior] temple itself. They were adorned with embroidered vails, with their flowers of 
purple, and pillars interwoven ; and over these, but under the crown work, was spread out 
a golden vine, with its branches hanging down from a great height, the largeness and fine 
workmanship of which was a surprising sight to the spectators, to see what sort of material 
these were and with what great skill the workmanship was done." 



* From which remote resemblance to a lion, the Temple was sometimes called Ariel. 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



257 



Temple described by Josephus. 

" Its first gate was seventy cubits high, and twenty-five cubits 
broad ; but this gate had no doors ; for it represented the universal 
visibility of heaven, and that it cannot be excluded from any place. 
Its front was covered with gold all over, and through it the first 
part of the house, that was more inward, did all of it appear ; which 
as it was very large, so did all the parts about the more inward gate 
appear to shine to those that saw them ; but then, as the entire 
house was divided into two parts within, it was only the first part 
of it that was open to our view. 

" Its height extended all along to ninety cubits in height, and its 
length was sixty cubits, and its breadth twenty ; but that gate which 
was at this end of the first part of the house was, as we have already 
observed, all over covered with gold, as was its whole wall about it : 
it had also golden vines about it, from which clusters of grapes hung 
as tall as a man's height ; but then this house, as it was divided into 
two parts, the inner part was lower than the appearance of the 
outer, and had golden doors of fifty-five cubits altitude, and sixteen 
in breadth ; but before these doors there was a vail of equal large- 
ness with the doors. It was a Babylonian curtain, embroidered with 
blue, and fine linen, and scarlet, and purple, and of a contexture 
that was truly wonderful. Nor was this mixture of colors without 
its mystical interpretation, but was a kind of image of the universe ; 
for by the scarlet there seemed to be enigmatically signified fire ; 
by the fine flax the earth, by the blue the air, and by the purple 
the sea ; two of them having their colors the foundation of this re- 
semblance ; but the fine flax and the purple have their own origin 
for that foundation, the earth producing the one, and the sea the 
other. This curtain had also embroidered upon it all that was mys- 
tical in the heavens, excepting that of the [twelve] signs represent- 
ing living creatures. 

"5. When any persons entered into the Temple, its floor received 
them. This part of the Temple, therefore, was in height sixty 
cubits, and its length the same ; whereas its breadth was but twenty 
cubits : but still that sixty cubits in length was divided again, and 
17 



258 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Temple described by Josephus. 

the first part of it cut off at forty cubits, and had in it three things 
that were very wonderful and famous among all mankind ; the can- 
dlestick,, the table [of show bread,] and the altar of incense. Now, 
the seven lamps signified the seven planets ; for so many there were 
springing out of the candlestick. Now, the twelve loaves that were 
upon the table signified the circle of the zodiac and the year ; but 
the altar of incense, by its thirteen kinds of sweet-smelling spices 
with which the sea replenished it, signifies that God is the possessor 
of all things that are both in the uninhabitable and habitable parts 
of the earth, and that they are all to be dedicated to his use. But 
the inmost part of the temple of all was of twenty cubits. This was 
also separated from the outer part by a veil. In this there was 
nothing at all. It was inaccessible and inviolable, and not to be 
seen by any, [except the High Priest on the day of atonement] and 
was called the Holy of Holies. 

Ant. viii. 3. "Now when the king had divided the temple into two parts, he made the 
inner house of twenty cubits [every way], to be the most secret chamber, but he appointed 
that of forty cubits to be the sanctuary; and when he had cut a door place out of the wall, 
he put therein doors of cedar, and overlaid them with a great deal of gold, that had sculp- 
tures upon it. He also had veils of blue, and purple, and scarlet, and the brightest and softest 
of linen, with the most curious flowers wrought upon them, which were to be drawn before 
those doors. He also dedicated for the most secret place, whose breadth was twenty cubits 
and the length the same, two cherubims of solid gold ; the height of each of them was five* 
cubits; they had each of them two wings stretched out as far as five cubits; wherefore 
Solomon set them up not far from each other, that with one wing they might touch the 
southern wall of the secret place, and with another the northern ; their other wings which 
joined to each other were a covering to the ark, which was set between them ; but nobody 
can tell, or even conjecture, what was the shape of these cherubims. Ho also laid the floor 
of the temple with plates of gold ; and he added doors to the gate of the temple agreeable 
to the measure of the height of the wall, but in breadth twenty cubits, and on them he glued 
gold plates; and to say all in one word, he left no part of the temple, neither internal nor 
external, but what was covered with gold. He also had curtains drawn over these doors, in 
like manner as they were drawn over the inner doors of the most holy place; but the porch 
of the temple had nothing of that sort." 

" Now, about the sides of the lower part of the temple there were 



* In this account of the Cherubim, Jose- 
phus, though apparently describing those of 
Solomon's Temple, is undoubtedly guided by 



their restoration for the Herodian Temple — 
so very different is it from the account given 
in the 6th chapter of 1 Kings. 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



259 



Temple described by Josepbus. 

little houses with passages out of one into another ; there were a 
great many of them, and they were of three stories high ; there 
were also entrances on each side into them from the gate [or porcK] 
of the temple. But the superior part of the temple had no such 
little houses any farther, because the temple was there narrower, 
and forty cubits higher, and of a smaller body than the lower parts 
of it.* 

Ant. viii. iii: 2. "He also built round about the temple, tbirty small rooms, which migbt 
include tbe wbole temple, by their closeness one to another, and by their number, and out- 
ward position round it. He also made passages through them, that they might come into 
one through another. Every one of these rooms [in the lower range'] had five cubits in 
breadth, and the same in length, but in height twenty. Above these were other rooms, and 
others above them, equal, both in their measures and number [in their respective tiers'], so 
that these reached to a height equal to the lower part of the house ; for the upper part had 
no buildings about it."* 

Thus we collect that the whole height, including the sixty cubits 
from the floor, amounted to a hundred cubits.f 

Ant. viii. iii ; 2. " The king also had a fine contrivance^ for an ascent to the upper room 
over the temple, and that was by steps in the thickness of its wall; for it had no large door 
ou the east end, as the lower house had, but the entrances were by the sides, through very 
small doors. He also overlaid the temple, both within and without, with boards of cedar, 
that were kept close together by thick chains, so that tbis contrivance was in the nature of 
a support and a strength to tho building." 

" 6. Now, the outward face of the temple in its front wanted 
nothing that was likely to surprise either men's minds or their eyes : 



* The wall of the Holy House was three 
cubits thicker below than above, and suffered 
a decrement in thickness of one cubit at 
heights of twenty, forty, and sixty cubits ; 
as explained in the 6th verse of the 6th chap- 
ter of 1 Kings: — "The nethermost chamber 
(or row of chambers) was five cubits broad, 
and the middle was six cubits broad, and the 
third was seven cubits broad : for without, in 
the wall of the house, he made narrowed 
rests round about, that the beams should not 
be fastened in the walls of the house." 

■f By some blunder, the height of the naos, 
wbich is ninety cubits, ia confounded with 



that of tho pronaon, one hundred. Or, was 
its original height raised ten cubits when the 
height of the pronaos was increased to one 
hundred and twenty? 

J This is more particularly described in 
1 Kings vi. S : — "And they went up with 
winding stairs into the middle chamber, and 
out of the middle into the third." A speci- 
men of this " winding" or spiral stairway is 
still to be seen in the old tower east of Da- 
mascus Gate ("Old Gate"). It is not in a 
cylindric case, as in modern spiral stairways, 
but in a hollow shaft left in the thickness of 
the wall. 



260 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Temples described by Josephus — Phastophoria. 

for it was covered all over with plates of gold of great weight, and, 
at the first rising of the sun, reflected back a very fiery splendor, 
and made those who forced themselves to look upon it to turn their 
eyes away, just as they would have done at the sun's own rays. But 
this temple appeared to strangers, when they were at a distance, 
like a mountain covered with snow ; for, as to those parts of it that 
were not gilt, they were exceeding white. On its top it had spikes 
with sharp points, to prevent any pollution of it by birds sitting upon 
it. Of its stones, some of them were forty-five cubits in length, five 
in height, and six in breadth. Before this temple stood the altar, 
fifteen cubits high, and equal both in length and breadth ; each of 
which dimensions was fifty cubits.* The figure it was built in was 
a square, and it had corners like horns, and the passage up to it 
was by an insensible acclivity. It was formed without any iron 
tool, nor did any such iron tool so much as touch it at any time.* 

" There was a wall of partition, about a cubit in height, made of 
fine stones, and so as to be grateful to the sight ; this encompassed 
the holy house and the altar, and kept the people that were on the 
outside off from the priests." 

Ant. viii. iii ; 9. " Ho also placed a partition round about tbe temple, which in our 
tongue wo call Gison, but it is called Thrigcos by the Greeks, and he raised it up to the 
height of three cubits, and it was for the exclusion of the multitude from coming into the 
temple, and showing that it was a place that was free and open only for the priests." 

The Phastophoria — Covert of the Sabbath. — This lofty watch- 
tower — " where," according to Josephus (W. iv. ix : 12), " one of the 
priests stood of course, and gave a signal beforehand with a trum- 
pet at the beginning of every seventh day in the evening twilight, 
as also at the evening when the day was finished, as giving notice to 



* The altar of Solomon's Temple, as Jose- it as restored by Zerubbabel— Josephus, as 

phus elsewhere mentions, was only twenty enlarged by Herod? It would require a 

sauare and ten high. That described in the great deal of room for the accommodation of 

Talmud was thirty-two square and nine high, the colossal altar described by Josephus ; 

Is not this discrepancy between Josephus and unless its base (which is highly probable) wa3 

the Talmud susceptible of reconciliation upon merely a slightly-elevated platform, 
the supposition that Rabbi Yehuda describes 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



261 



Temple described — "Street of the house of God." 

the people when they were to leave off work, and when they were 
to go to work again" — was situated either at the eastward or Slrusan 
Gate ; or in the south-west corner of the Court of the Gentiles, at 
the entrance to the Tyropceon Bridge. 

It would appear from the following note of Mr. Whiston upon 
this passage, that this building — not a little resembling the present 
minarets of Jerusalem, both in architecture and object — was iden- 
tical with the Covert for the Sabbath that they had built in the house 
and the king's entry without. " This beginning and ending the 
observation of the Jewish seventh day or Sabbath with a priest's 
blowing of a trumpet, is remarkable, and nowhere else mentioned 
that I know of. Nor is Roland's conjecture here improbable, 
that this was the very place that has puzzled our commentators so 
long, called < Musach Sabbati,' the covert of the Sabbath, if that 
be the true reading, 2 Kings xvi. 18 ; because here the proper priest 
stood dry, under a covering, to proclaim the beginning and ending 
of every Jewish sabbath." The portion of this watch-tower called 
the covert or covering, was probably a kind of cupola of gold, very 
curiously wrought, inasmuch as it was deemed worthy the accept- 
ance of the king of Assyria by King Ahaz. 

" Street of the House of God." — This is clearly a mistranslation — 
there being no streets in the Temple. It is called "broad court" 
in the 9th chapter of Esdras (vi. 38, 41) ; and the original Hebrew 
term is entirely susceptible of this translation, as is also the corres- 
ponding term in the Septuagint — plateia. The circumstances of 
the case also plainly indicate that this street was no other than the 
Court of the Gentiles — that being the only place where the « great 
multitude" could be accommodated. It must be borne in mind that 
the Court of the Gentiles is frequently called the great Outer or 
Lower Court ; that of the Women, the New Court; and that of the 
Priests, the Inner or Innermost Court. The Higher Court includes 
both the Court of the Priests and that of Israel. " The porters 
lodged round about the House of God, because the charge was upon 



262 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Measurements of the Temple — Middoth. 

them. In four quarters were the porters — toward the east, the 
west, the north, and the south." — Talmud. 

Josephus minutely describes the pillars of Jachin and Boaz in his 
account of Solomon's Temple : but fails to mention them, as he also 
does the Court of Israel, in his description of Herod's Temple. It 
cannot be supposed, however, that the jealous, formal, mint-tithing 
Jews of that generation would have tolerated the omission of these 
famous pillars, nor the "narrow lights," nor indeed anything else, 
authorized by the original "pattern" of Solomon's Temple. An 
account of the Temple furniture and service, however cursory, would 
be quite interesting ; but nothing less than a monograph on the 
Temple would justify such details. But although the prescribed 
limits of this work necessarily preclude the propriety of entering 
into minutiae, yet it may be well to admit additional memoranda from 
original works on Jewish antiquities, in order that we may be enabled 
the better to understand the brief accounts contained in the Scrip- 
tures : and at the same time to supply temple-builders with ample 
materials for the restoration of the Sacred Edifice. 

The Talmud not being available to the general reader, the follow- 
ing carefully culled extracts from this rare work are presented, in 
the hope that they will prove as acceptable, as they are valuable, in 
elucidating the Temple service arrangements.* 

" The hill of the temple was 500 cubits by 500, and surrounded 
by a wall 25 cubits high on the interior. The southern outer wall 
was farther from the temple wall than any of the others — was 
supplied with two gates, Chuldah by name, equidistant from the cor- 
ners and from each other.f 

« The eastern wall was nearer to that of the temple ; had only one 
gate, called Shushan on account of the picture or sculpture of Shu- 
shan they had been commanded by the kings of Persia, at the time 



* They are derived both from the Mishna 
and Gainara — text and commentary ; but are 
mainly extracted from that division of the 
Talmud called Middoth or Measures. 



f These were doubtless the Double and 
Triple Gates — though their respective dis- 
tances are not stated with rigid accuracy. 



JERUSALEM— AS IT WAS. 263 
Measurements, &c, from the Middoth. 

when they were liberated from their captivity, to make on the 
eastern gate in order to remind them of their captivity. The battle- 
ment over the east gate was lower than elsewhere — being only 6 
cubits high : so that the priest, when sprinkling the blood of the red 
heifer on Mount Olivet, could, by looking over this and through the 
inner gates, see the altar. 

" The northern wall, which was still nearer to that of the temple, 
had but one gate called Tetdi or Tudy — and was for no special 
purpose. 

" The western wall, which was the nearest to that of the temple, 
had but one gate, and was called Coponius or Kephinus. Most ser- 
vice was done in the south part of the temple area, because most 
of the rooms were there. There was, therefore, most space on the 
south side — and where there was most space there was most use. 

" The partition, a sort of lattice work of wood, between the outer 
wall and the exterior space surrounding the temple wall, was 10 
hand-breadths high, and had thirteen openings afterwards used as 
bowing places. The space between the said lattice work and the 
temple wall, was ten cubits, and was called the Rampart, which 
also surrounded the Temple. There were twelve steps on the eastern 
side leading to the court of the women. 

" The court of the women was 135 square, and divided by a wall 
from the court of priests. 

" At the inner corners of the women's court there were four apart- 
ments, each being 40 square, or 40 X 30. That of south-east was 
for polling the hair of the Nazarites, and cooking their peace- 
offerings. 

" The north-eastern apartment for wood — where the blemished 
priests picked the sound wood, from the worm-eaten and unsound 
pieces, for the altar. 

" The north-western apartment for the lepers — where, after having 
discharged such duties as devolved upon them in the country, they 
bathed themselves. 

" The south-western apartment was the place for oil and wine, used 



264 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Temple — Extracts from the Middoth. 

in meat and drink offerings, &c. Both men and women worshipped 
in this court — the men on the floor and the women in the galleries. 

" The gate called Nicanor, was at the eastern side of the court 
of Israel. A stairway of 15 steps led from the women's court to 
this gate. 

" An apartment was to the right of the gate for the vestry-man 
of the priests. 

" An apartment to the left of the gate for the culinary utensils. 

" Under the court of Israel there was an apartment where the 
Levites kept their musical instruments, having an opening to the 
women's court. 

" The court of Israel was 135 cubits long and 11 broad : and was 
cloistered like the women's court ; the cloisters extending all the 
way round on every side, except the east, where there was only a 
wall and roof. 

" A step or platform 1 cubit high extended through the whole 
length of the temple, beneath the roof of the courts of Israel and 
the priests, separating the one from the other, upon which there 
was a pulpit 1J cubits from the surface, upon which it stood ; where 
the Levites stood to sing and to bless the people ; and was ascended 
by means of these steps. 

" The court of the priests was 135 cubits long and 11 broad. The 
railing of the pulpit served for a partition between the two courts. 

" Near Solomon's altar (which was 20 X 20) and close to the out- 
side of south-west corner, were two drainholes ; but Herod's altar 
being larger, they fell within the base of this altar. The blood 
and offal of the victims mixed with water, was conducted subterra- 
neously to the Kedron. 

" The altar was 10 cubits high — 32 by 32 at its base, but diminished 
to 24 X 24 at top by three abatements of dimensions. It was in 
its first abatement — or « foundation" — that these holes were pierced 
to be continuous with the old openings. 

" A red band of scarlet thread surrounded the altar at a height of 
5 cubits. An inclined plane of undressed stone 32 by 16, was laid 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



26£ 



Temple — Extracts from the Middoth. 

to the south of the altar for the priest to ascend and descend. 
There was a room underneath where surplus food was sometimes 
placed. The "circuit" of the altar, on which the priests walked, 
was 6 cubits from the floor — even with the sill of the temple door. 

" Two tables stood at the western side of the inclined plane, one 
of gold and the other of marble. 

" A place lXl with marble cover and ring, for cleansing the 
conduit. 

" The space from the inclined plane to the temple was 12J cubits. 
" From the altar to the rings, 8 cubits. 

" Six rows of rings each containing 4 ; to the north of the altar. 

" From the tables to the hooks (driven in a beam of wood resting 
on stoue pillars for suspending the victims, 8 cubits. 

" The slaughtering department had 8 hooks to hang the meat 
upon. 

"From the hooks to the enclosure of the temple 8 cubits The 
Temple had 6 departments on the southern side : the easternmost 
of which was the magazine for salt. 

" The apartment of a man whose name was Parvah the magician. 
Tradition says that this apartment was built magically. But some 
say that the name Parvah was owing to the skinning of the sheep 
which was done in this room, the name of a skin being Parvah. 

" An apartment, for washing the sacrifices, from which there was a 
stairway leading to the terrace of the apartment called Parvah upon 
which there is a baptistery for the high priest to dip himself five 
times on the day of atonement. 

" At the northern side near the east there was an apartment for 
the shearing of the sheep, half of it belonging to the temple and 
the other half to the common. Had two openings ; one to the 
temple, and one to common. 

" An apartment called (Golah) owing to a well it had — the water 
being drawn by means of a wheel. 

" An apartment for wood. 

" A very large house, built on arches, and was supplied with several 



266 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Temple — Extracts from the Middoth. 

fireplaces for the priests to warm themselves as they were minister- 
ing barefooted ; had two gates, one opening to the temple and one 
to common ; had four small rooms, two projecting into the temple, 
and two to the common. 

" An apartment for selected sheep, without blemish or spot, for 
daily offerings. 

" An apartment for making show-bread. 
The apartment in which the Asmoneans laid away the stones of 
the desecrated altar. 

" This apartment was also called the house of fire, as it was supplied 
by a fireplace for the priests to warm themselves after coming out 
from the bath, by means of steps leading down from the same room. 

"A place of 1 cubit square, where a ring with a chain was fast- 
ened, upon which the keys were suspended. 

" The gate through which offerings were brought in. 

" The gate called Nitsouts, had two walls projecting at the sides of 
the gate upon which upper room was built on arches for watch, and 
had an opening to the rampart. 

" The gate through which wood was brought in, and was called 
burning or kindling. 

" The gate through which all the first-born of such animals as were 
fit for offering were brought in, and was called first-born or firstlings. 

" The water to be poured out on feast days was brought in through 
this gate. 

" An apartment close to the water gate. All the gates were 
covered with gold except Nicanor, which was Corinthian brass or 
aurichalchum. Two small doors in Nicanor : right and left watch 
rooms, by sides of gates — twenty-four in all. 

" The brazen sea stood between the porch and the altar towards 
the south. 

" Between the porch and the altar there was a space of 22 cubits : 
there weie also twelve steps occupying 19 in extent, and a pave- 
ment 3 = 22. 

" The wall of the porch was 5 cubits thick, and the height of the 



JERUSALEM— AS IT WAS. 



267 



Temple — Extracts from the Middoth. 

opening was 40 cubits, width 20 cubits. House and porch braced 
by connecting beams. 

" The porch was 11 cubits broad from east to west, and 70 cubits 
long from north to south (inside), exclusive of the shoulder-rooms 
for slaughter knives (15X2=30+70=100). There were five beams 
of timber curiously wrought over the gate of the portico. 

" The apartment for the slaughter knives 15 cubits from north and 
15 from south. 

" Two tables in the porch, close to the door, one of gold and the 
other of marble. Gold chains suspended from projecting pieces of 
stone, by which the priest ascended to golden offerings. 

" From north-west corner was a spiral stairway to roof of chambers. 
Around the top of the temple was a battlement 3 cubits high : and 
a scare-crow 1 cubit high, to deter ravens and other birds from 
lighting on the house. 

" The wall of the temple was of veined marble : and it seemed 
like the waving of the sea — one row of stones did so curiously go 
in, and another come out — one border or edge going in and another 
out. 

"Besides a deep foundation in the earth there was another above 
surface of 6 cubits, upon which the house was built, and it was 
broader than the superstructure. 

" The interior of the temple was 40 cubits from east to west, and 
20 cubits from north to south. 

" There was a place at the right of entrance, and a marble cover 
which had a ring in it in order to lift it up to take ashes from under 
it, to put it into the proof water of jealousy. 

" Two golden vessels in which the high priest put the blood of the 
goat on the day of atonement. 

" The candlestick at the left of the entrance, and a table to the 
right, and the altar of gold projecting a little from between. 

" A space of one cubit thick between the walls of the temple and 
the holy of holies. 

" The holy of holies, 20 cubits square. In its door were two 



2G8 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Extracts from Middoth. 

smaller ones. The room over the holy and most holy places was 
entered on the south by a door over the chambers. In its floor were 
holes through which priests were let down once a year to white- 
wash. The ceiling of the holy place was 55 cubits, but in the 
most holy, only 20 ; though it had another 40 cubits high. The ceil- 
ing of the porch was 90 cubits high. 

" The wall of the temple, 6 cubits to the north and 6 to south. 

" Side chambers 6 cubits broad, 15 on north, 15 south, and 8 west, 
equal 38 — in three stories — the lowest entered from below, the 
upper ranges, from spiral stairways in the north end of the portico — 
and by the same contrivance from the lower story, 10 cubits above 
the roof of the chambers was a row of lights, narrow without and 
broad within. 

" On roof of chambers there were holes ; and projecting pieces of 
cedar mark the line between holy and holy of holies. 

" The wall of that department 6 to the north and 6 to south. 

" The third surrounding space 3 to the north and 3 to south was 
called the department where the waters fall — (the Impluvium). 

" The Avail 5 to the north and 5 to south. 

" The wall of the temple 6 to the west. 

" Haanoth, Tabernos or Bazaars for the sale of salt, wine, oil, &c, 
were situated near the gates." 

The close resemblance between the Talmudic account of the 
Temple of Herod, and that so minutely described by Ezekiel (Chs. 
40-44), readily suggests the conclusion that the Rabbins have drawn 
very freely upon the prophet for the minutiae of their description. 

The following condensed items of measurement, carefully ex- 
tracted from the works of Josephus and the Talmud, though occa- 
sionally somewhat variant* and apparently contradictory, will 
nevertheless aid materially in a correct apprehension of the Temple 



* In stating the size of the doors, the wall, containing the side posts, lintel, and 
Talmud seems to give the dimensions of the space above; the one describing interior di- 
leaf, and Josephus that of the opening in the mensions and the other outer. 



JERUSALEM — 



AS IT WAS. 



Measurements — from Josephus and the Talmud. 

structures. Unless otherwise expressed, the measurements are in 
cubits. 

Holy house; height, 90 without and 60 within. 

Porch or pronaos ; height without, 100 (at one time 120), breadth, 100. 



Apportionment of Holy House and Porch from East to West. 

Wall of porch 5 

Inner space of porch (or vestibule) 11 

Wall of holy place, east 6 

Holy place (length) . 40 

Wall between holy and holiest 1 

Holy of holies (length) 20 

Wall of holy house, west 6 

Breadth of rear chambers 6 

Thickness of chamber wall 5 

Width of impluvium in the rear of the chambers 5 

Rear wall . . . . . . . - 6 

111 

Apportionment of Holy House, Chambers, &c, North and South. 

Outer surrounding wall 5 

Interval for impluvium (gallery) 3 

Lateral chamber wall . . . .5 

Breadth of chambers 6 

Wall of holy house 6 

Breadth of holy house 20 

Wall of holy house . G 

Breadth of chambers 6 

Breadth of chamber wall 5 

Impluvium (or place of coming down of waters) % 

Outer investing wall 5 



70 

The thickness of one of these walls, according to Josephus, was 8 cubits. 

Arrangements for Sacrificing (extending across the Court of the Priests 22 in front of the 

Porch). 



Space from north wall to pillars 8 

Pillars to marble tables 4 

From tables to rings 4 

Ring apartment ... . . .24 

From rings to altar . . . . 8 

Altar and plane united . . . 62 

Plane to south wall of court . . 25 



135 



270 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Measurements from Josephus and the Talmud. 



Dimensions across the Sanctuary, East to West. 

Court of Israel (breadth) . .... . ' 11 

Court of priests " 11 

Altar " . , • . .32 

Between altar and temple . . 22 

Temple (length) 100 

Between west end of temple and the wall west 11 

187 



Altar, 32 square, diminishing to 24 at top, and 9 high. (Talmud.) (Josephus says 50 
square, and 15 high.) Pavement from altar to steps, 3 wide. 
Thrigcos or Gison, 1 (Josephus) ; 3 (Talmud). 

Court of priests, 135 long, 11 wide. Platform, 1 high. Pulpit, 1J high (er). 
Court of Israel, 135 long, 11 wide. 
Sanctuary, inside measure, 135 X 187. 

Women's court, 135 square. Apartments in each corner, 40 X 30. 

Buildings around inner court ; height outside, steps excepted, 40; inside, 25 ; cloisters 
single, but pillars fine and large. 

Gates to inner courts: 4 on north, 4 south, 1 east; height 20 X^* (J° s - 30 X 1&> and 
double.) Beautiful gate, 30 X Corinthian or Nicanor ; height 50, doors 40 X ? 

10 steps in each gate, but 15 semicircular ones from women's court to Israel's. 

Chel or rampart surrounding sanctuary, 10. 

Steps to chel, 12, (Josephus 14,) and J high. 

Hil, Soreg, or sacred partition fence, stone and 3 high. (Talmud, 1 J and wood.) An 
opening before each gate. 
Steps to Hil. 

Cloisters or porticoes: on south, triple and 70 broad (30 -f- 45 -{-30 feet); height 100 in 
the middle, and 50 north and south. Height of pillars, 27 feet. 162 in number. 
On east, west, and north, double, and 25 (cubits) high. Breadth, 30. 
Length, 400 cubits, or 1 stadium or furlong. 

Exterior wall, 400 cubits in length. (Talmud, 500.) Including Antonia, 6 furlongs around. 
Gates in outer wall : on west 4, south 2 (?), on east 1 (Talmud), on north 1 (Talmud). 
Opening to vestibule, 40 X 20 - (Josephus, 70 X 25.) 
Door to holy place, 55 X 16 ; to holy of holies, 20 X 10. 
Five bars across doorway, 22, 24, 2fi, 28, 30; and one in it 20 long. 
Steps to porch, width 19; generally 1 broad, but 4th and 8th 3 broad, and 12th 4 
broad — tesselated. Height of each step, i. 

All the gates in the outer wall, 20 high X '0 broad. 

Elevations tcestward from Court of Gentiles to floor of Holy House. 



From court of Gentiles to partition fence 2^ 

" area within sacred fence to chel 7$ 

" chel to inner gates 5 

" women's court to court of Israel . . ' 71 

" court of Israel to court of priests 2£ 

" court of priests to floor of holy house 6 

31 

Difference between floor of outer court and floor of holy house (elsewhere stated) . 22 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



271 



Adaptation of the Temple to the area of Mount Moriah. 

With these copious materials and authentic data, there is but 
little difficulty in the mere restoration of the Temple ; but its exact 
location and accommodation within the enclosed area of Mount 
Moriah is a subject which, though so long and keenly discussed, has 
never yet been satisfactorily determined. Existing remains do not 
allow us to entertain the idea that the Temple-mount area was ever 
exactly square, as we would infer from Josephus and the Talmud ; 
and hence we are constrained to come to the conclusion that Jose- 
phus and the Rabbins merely intended to speak approximative^ 
in so expressing themselves. But this is not the greatest difficulty ; 
for the actual deviation in dimension is still more serious than that 
in form — the shortest side of the present Temple enclosure being 
166 feet longer than a side of the square assigned it by the Talmud, 
and 316 longer than the estimate of Josephus — the cubit being rated 
at 18 inches. 

But "facts are stubborn things;" and although Josephus is so 
prone to exaggerate in magnitudes and distances when the glory of 
his nation or the military fame of his great patron can be thereby 
enhanced, yet in this instance he has undoubtedly understated 
dimensions — for according to the stern requirements of the ground 
and the remains upon it, the outer Temple wall must have been at 
least a stadium and a half in length, instead of a stadium, at which 
he so frequently rates it. But it must not be forgotten that in 
writing his account of it, the author is doing so at considerable 
disadvantage — being far away at Home ; and there is every reason 
to believe that in many such matters he was more dependent upon 
memory than upon any special materials that he had personally col- 
lected before leaving the Holy City. The probability is that the 
Talmudic is the more correct estimate — for Rabbi Yehudah, the 
compiler of the Talmud, residing as he did at Tiberias, had the 
opportunity of speaking with sufficiently minute correctness on this 
point ; for though in general he merely reflects the tradition of the 
Rabbins, and of course cannot speak from personal observation as 
to much of his description, yet, though living a century and a half 



272 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Accommodation of the Temple to Haram enclosure. Disposition of Es-Sakhrah. 

after the destruction of the Temple, there were doubtless sufficient 
remains to indicate its main apportionment. But still, notwith- 
standing such discrepancies between these authors individually, and 
the still more serious want of agreement between them and the facts 
of the case in relation to this item ; yet the outer enclosure of the 
Temple never having been regarded as holy ground, we are not to 
expect the same accuracy that these authors observe in describing 
the sacred structures and courts of the interior. And hence the 
general estimate of the outer enclosure which each of them has 
made, may fairly be considered as sufficiently accurate for all gene- 
ral purposes. It is perfectly obvious that the buildings of the 
Temple could never have been compressed within the area of a sta- 
dium square — the mere sanctuary, independent of the Court of the 
Gentiles, being more than 400 cubits in length ; nor could they 
have well been included within the 500 cubits square assigned for 
their accommodation by the Middoth, without inconvenient crowd- 
ing. The larger limits of the area of the Haram seem indispensable 
to their proper display and arrangement, The satisfactory dispo- 
sition of es-Sakhrah is a problem that has puzzled Biblical topo- 
graphers not a little. But it is altogether obvious that no accommo- 
dation heretofore proposed meets the requirements of the case ; and 
just as evident is it, that unless in some way excluded from view, it 
would be an entirely useless and very unsightly object in the Court 
of the Gentiles, or somewhere else still more inconveniently situated. 
I have therefore, in accordance with certain indications on its surface, 
located it within the north cloister of the Temple, where it would 
not only be out of the way, but serve a useful purpose as a founda- 
tion for a tower, or a safe depository for treasure. Its northern 
end is scarped, and has every appearance of having at once sus- 
tained and formed part of a wall. But for this scarpment it might 
be plausibly objected that a broader cloister would be required to 
conceal it, than that assigned this wall by Josephus ; its upper sur- 
face, however, is so much reduced in length by this scarpment that 
the space jointly occupied by the cloister and wall would exactly 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



273 



Determination of the Temple area. 

cover it — supposing the wall to be a foot or two thicker on this vul- 
nerable side of the Temple than on its other sides where it was 
almost impregnable. 

Having thus disposed of this difficulty, it becomes very easy to 
locate the Sanctuary according to the requirements of the Middoth, 
so that most room would be on its south, and less and less opposite 
its eastern, northern, and western faces. Such a position, too, will 
at once explain why one of the southern gates of the Sanctuary 
was called "Water Gate" — for it thus became located immediately 
over the great subterranean reservoir of the Temple. This division 
of the Temple area by a wall running as low down as the Sakhrah 
is also more in conformity with the requirements of Josephus, as 
well as with the indications of nature. 

The outer foundation walls of the Temple were not perpendicular ; 
but inclined inwardly probably as much as three feet in a height of 
seventy or eighty, which would reduce the length of the south wall to 
910 feet at the top. Nor was the exterior wall of the cloisters a con- 
tinuation of this wall, but was an independent structure, built partly 
on the substructions, and in part only upon this wall, its surface not 
being flush or even with that of the foundation wall, but a short 
distance within its outer edge, so as to leave a shoulder of two or 
three feet all around. Now allowing eight feet for the cloister wall, 
three for this shoulder, and three for the talus, or inward inclination, 
the east and west walls would be 888 feet apart at their junction 
with the south wall ; and the east and west cloisters being each 45 
feet in width, the cloisters would thus be 798 feet distant from each 
other at that point. Making similar allowance on the other sides, 
the distance between cloister and cloister will be found on the west 
680, on the north 857, and east only 630. Now this last measure 
so nearly approximates a stadium, that a person forming an estimate 
of the Temple area by pacing this colonnade might well be excused 
for setting it down at a stadium, and concluding that the others 
were the same length, and all the corners right angled — for the most- 
practised eye could not detect the deviation of such an area from 

18 



274 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Determination of the Temple area. 

the form of an exact square. The average of these distances, it is 
seen on calculation, is 741 feet, which is 141 or one-fifth more than 
the number assigned by Josephus, but nine feet less than the Rab- 
binic specification ; measured, however, from wall to wall, the aver- 
age distance is 869, or 119 feet longer than the measure apparently 
assigned it in the Middoth. But as there were towers, apparently, 
at the junction of the cloisters, in each corner, it is probable that 
the mensuration applies not to the actual length of the walls, but 
to the space between these corner structures. 

As a dernier resort, the strict constructionist might easily take 
advantage of the fact mentioned by Josephus in speaking of the 
outer or foundation wall, that " within this wall and on the very top 
of all, there ran another wall, &c," and construct an exact square 
either of 400 or 500 cubits a side, but for the inconsistency of such an 
appropriation of the Temple area with his account of the siege, and 
the inconvenient crowding of the buildings thus rendered unavoid- 
able, without any apparent reason. 

Under all the circumstances of the case, we can arrive at no other 
conclusion than that the present wall of the Haram is identical in 
position with that of the ancient Temple, and that the square stadium 
assigned the Temple area by Josephus, and the 500 cubits by the 
author of Middoth, or the compiler of the Talmud, are only general 
estimates, and must be made to yield to the uncompromising facts 
of the case. 

After these extended introductory remarks, we are now prepared to 
understand the more succinct accounts of the Temple contained in the 
Scriptures — here carefully collated for easier comparison and com- 
prehension. Several apparent incongruities, difficulties, and discre- 
pancies in the two accounts will be observed — of immaterial import 
and easily explicable. 

1 Cbron. xxviii. 1 1, 21. Then David gave to Solomon his son the pattern of the porch, 
and of the houses thereof, and of the treasuries thereof, and of the upper chambers thereof, 
and of the inner parlors thereof, and the place of the mercy seat, and the pattern of all that 
he had by the Spirit, of the courts of the House of the Lord, and of all the chambers round 



JERUSALEM— AS IT WAS. 



27o 



Extracts from Kings, Chronicles, &c, descriptive of the Temple. 



about, of the. treasuries of the house of God, and of the treasuries of the dedicated things. 
And also for the courses of the priests and Levites, and for all the works of the service of 
the house of the Lord, and for all the vessels of service in the house of the Lord. P * * * 
"All this," said David, "the Lord made me understand in writing by his hand upon me, 
even all the works of this pattern. 3 ' 



1 Kings VI. 
]. And it came to pass after the four hun- 
dred and eightieth year after the chil- 
dren of Israel wero come out of the land 
of Egypt, in the fourth year of Solomon's 
reign over Israel, in the month Zif, 
which is the second month, that he began 
to build tho house of the Lord. 



2 Chr. III. 

1. Then Solomon began to build the house 
of the Lord, at Jerusalem, in Mount 
Moriah, where the Lord appeared unto 
David his father, in the place that David 
had prepared in the threshing-floor of 
Oman the Jebusite. 

1 Kings v. 17. And the king commanded, 



and they brought great stones, costly stones, and hewed stones, to lay the foundation of 
the house. 

Ezra vi. 3, 4. In the first year of Cyrus the king, the same Cyrus the king made a decree 
concerning the house of God at Jerusalem — "Let the house be builded, the place where 
they offered sacrifices, and let the foundations thereof be strongly laid; the height thereof 
threescore cubits, and the breadth thereof threescore cubits ; with three rows of great 
stones, and a row of now timber."* "Whose height shall be sixty cubits, and the breadth 
sixty cubits, with three rows of hewn stones; and one row of new wood of that country." 

1st Esdras vi. 25. 
2. And he began to build in the second day 
of the second month, in the fourth year of his reign. 



And the house which king Solomon 
built for the Lord, the length thereof 
was threescore cubits, and the breadth 
thereof twenty cubits, and the height 
thereof thirty cubits. 



3. Now these are the things wherein king 
Solomon was instructed for the building 
of the house of God. The length by 
cubits after tho first measure was three- 
score cubits : and the breadth twenty 
cubits. 

8. And ho made the most holy house, tho 
length whereof was according to tho breadth of the house, twenty cubits, and the breadth 
thereof twenty cubits : and he overlaid it with fine gold, amounting to six hundred 
talents. 



And the porch before the temple of tho 
house, twenty cubits was the length 
thereof, according to tho breadth of the 
house ; and ten cubits was the breadth 
thereof, before the house. 



And the porch that was in the front of 
the house, the length of it was according 
to the breadth of the house, twenty 
cubits; and the height was a hundred 
and twenty : and he overlaid it within 
with pure gold. 



* This reduction in height was probably chambers on each side. But his restrictions 

intended by Cyrus to prevent the conversion seem to have been set at nought by the 

of the porch into a citadel. The sixty cubits builders, 
in breadth was, no doubt, inclusive of tho 



276 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Harmony of Kings, Chronicles, &c, descriptive of the Temple. 

1 Kings VI. 2 Chr. III. 

4. And for the house he made windows of narrow lights. 

5. And against the wall of the house he built chambers round about, against the walla 
of the house round about, both of the temple and of the oracle ; and he made chambers 

6. round about. The nethermost chamber was five cubits broad ; and the middle was six 
cubits broacl, and the third was seven cubits broad; for without in the wall of the house 
he made narrowed rests round about, that the beams should not be fastened in the walls 
of the house. 

7. The house, when it was in building, was built of stone made ready before it was 
brought thither; so that there was neither hammer, nor axe, nor any tool of iron heard 

8. in the house while it was in building. The door of the middle chamber was in the 
right side of the house; and they went up with winding stairs into the middle chamber, 
and out of the middle into the third. 

9. So he built the house and finished it ; 5. And the greater house ho ceiled with 
and covered the house with beams and fir-tree which he overlaid with fine gold, 
boards of cedar. and set thereon palm-trees and chains. 

10. And then he built chamhers against all the house five cubits high; and they rested 
on the house with timber of cedar. 

15. And he built the walls of the house within with boards of cedar, both the floor of 
the house and the walls of the ceiling; and he covered them on the insido with wood, 

16. and covered the floor of the house with planks of fir. And he built twenty cubits on 
the sides of the house, both the floor and the walls with boards of cedar; he even built 

17. them for it within, even for the oracle, even for the most holy place. And the house, 
IS. that is, the temple before it, was forty cubits long. And the cedar of the house within 

was carved with knops and open flowers : all was cedar; there was no stone seen. 

19. And the oracle he prepared in the house within, to set there the ark of the covenant 

20. of the Lord. And the oracle in the fore-part was twenty cubits in length, and twenty 
cubits in breadth, and twenty cubits in the height thereof; and he overlaid it with pure 
gold ; and so covered the altar which was of cedar. 

21. So Solomon overlaid the house within 7. He overlaid also the house, the beams, 
with pure gold : and he made a partition the posts, and the walls thereof, and the 
by the chains of gold before the oracle, doors thereof, with gold ; and graved 

22. and he overlaid it with gold. And the cherubims on the walls. 

whole house he overlaid with gold, until 9. And the weight of the nails was fifty 
he had finished all the house; also the shekels of gold. And he overlaid the 
whole altar that was by the oracle, he upper chambers with gold. 
30. overlaid with gold. And the floor of the house ho overlaid with gold within and 
without. 

6. And ho garnished the house with pre- 
cious stones for beauty ; and the gold was gold of Parvaim. 

23. And within the oracle he made two 10. And in the most holy house he made 
cherubims of olive-tree, each ten cubits two cherubims of image-work, and over- 

24. high. And five cubits was the one wing 11. laid them with gold. And the wings of 
of the cherub, and five cubits the other the cherubims were twenty cubits long : 
wing of the cherub : from the utter- one wing of the one cherubim was five 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



Harmony of Kings, Chronicles, &c, descriptive of the Temple. 



1 Kings VI. 
most part of the one wing to the utter- 
most part of the other wing were ten 

25. cubits. And the other cherub was ten 
cubits ; both the cherubims were of one 

26. measure and of one size. The height of 
the one cherub was ten cubits, and so 

27. was it of the other cherub. And he set 
the cherubims within the inner house : 
and they stretched forth the wings of the 
cherubims, so that the wing of the one 
touched the one wall, and the wing of 



2 Chr. III. 
cubits, reaching to the wall of the house ; 
and the other wing was likewise five 
cubits, reaching to the wing of the other 

12. cherub. And one wing of the other 
cherub was five cubits, reaching to the 
wall of the house; and the other wing 
was five cubits also, joining to the wing 

13. of the other cherub. The wings of these 
cherubims spread themselves forth twenty 
cubits; and they stood on their feet, and 
their faces were inward. 



the other cherubim touched the other wall : and their wings touched one another in 

28. the midst of the house. And he overlaid the cherubims with gold. 

29. And he carved all the walls of the house round about with carved figures of cheru- 
bims and palm-trees, and open flowers, within and without. 

14. And he made the veil of blue, and pur- 
ple, and crimson, and fine linen, and wrought cherubims thereon. 

31. And for the entering of the oracle h.e made doors of olive-tree ; the lintel and side 

32. posts were a fifth part of the wall. The two doors also were of olive-tree ; and he 
carved upon them carvings of cherubims, and palm-trees, and open flowers, and over- 
laid them with gold, and spread gold upon the cherubims, and upon the palm-trees. 

33. So also made he for the door of the temple posts of olive-tree, a fourth part of the 

34. wall. And the two doors were of fir-tree ; the two leaves of the one door were folding, 

35. and the two leaves of the other door were folding. And ho carved thereon cherubims, 
and palm-trees, and open flowers; and covered them with gold fitted upon the carved 
work. IV. 22. And the entry of the house, the inner 
doors thereof for the most holy place, and the doors of the house of the temple were 
of gold. 



36. And he built the inner court with three 
rows of hewed stone, and a row of cedar 
beams. 

VII. 

15. He cast two pillars of brass of eighteen* 
cubits high apiece; and a line of twelve 
cubits did compass either of them about. 



9. Furthermore, he made the court of the 
priests, and the great court, and doors 
for the court, and overlaid the doors of 
them with brass. 

III. 

15. Also he made before the house two 
pillars of thirty and five* cubits high, 
and the chapiter that was on the top of 



* This discrepancy is reconcileable by sup- 
posing either that about eighteen cubits was 
the height of each pillar (and about thirty- 
six their joint height), or that each pillar 
was about fhirty-fivo or thirty-six cubits in 
height, but cast in two pieces eighteen cubits 
in length. The latter is by far the more pro- 
bable explanation — whether the symmetry 



of the pillar be considered, or the height of 
the temple door before which they were 
placed. The chapiters seem to have con- 
sisted of several pieces, and being some- 
times spoken of collectively, and at others 
in detached pieces, some confusion seems to 
have arisen in consequence. 



278 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Harmony of the Scriptures descriptive of the Temple. 



16. 



17 



1 Kings VII. 
And he made two chapiters of molten 
brass to set upon the tops of the pillars; 
the height of the one chapiter was five 
cubits, and the height of the other cha- 
piter was five cubits. And nets of 
checker work, and wreaths of chain 
work, for the chapiters which were upon 
the tops of the pillars ; seven for the one 
chapiter, and seven for the other chapi- 

18. ter. And he made the pillars, and two 
rows round about upon the one net-work, 
to cover the chapiters that were upon 
the top with pomegranates; and so did 

19. he for the other chapiter. And the cha- 
piters that were upon the top of the pil- 
lars, were of lily-work in the porch, four 

20. cubits. And the chapiters upon the two 
pillars had pomegranates also above, 
over against the belly which was by the 
net-work; and the pomegranates were 



2 Chr. III. 

16. each of them was five cubits. And ho 
made chains as in the oracle, and put 
them on the heads of the pillars; and 
made an hundred pomegranates, and put 

17. them on the chains. And ho reared up 
the pillars before the temple — the one on 
the right hand, and the other on the left; 
and called the name of that on the right 
hand Jachim, and the name of that on 
the left Boaz. 

IV. 12. The two pillars, and the pommels, and 
the chapiters which were on the top of the 
two pillars, and the two wreaths to cover 
the two pommels of the two chapiters 
which were upon the top of the pillars. 

13. And four hundred pomegranates on 
the two wreaths ; two rows of pomegra- 
nates on each wreath, to cover the two 
pommels of the chapiters which were 
upon the pillars. 



21. two hundred, in rows round about upon the other chapiter. And he set up the pillars 
in the porch of the temple : and he set up the right pillar, and called the name theroof 

22. Jachin ; and he set up the left pillar, and called the name thereof Boaz. And upon the 

41. top of the pillars was lily-work; so was the work of the pillars finished. The two pillars 
and the two bowls of the chapiters that were on the top of the two pillars; and the two 
net-works, to cover the two bowls of the chapiters which were upon the top of the pil- 

42. lars. And four hundred pomegranates for the two net-works, even two rows of pome- 
granates for one net-work, to cover the two bowls of the chapiters that were upon the 
pillars. 

Jer. lii. 21. And concerning the pillars, the height of one pillar was eighteen cubits ; 
and a fillet of twelve cubits did compass it; and the thickness thereof was four fingers: it 
was hollow. (22). And a chapiter of brass was upon it; and the height of one chapiter 
was five cubits, with net-work and pomegranates upon the chapiters round about, all of 
brass. The second pillar also and the pomegranates were like unto these. (23). And there 
were ninety and six pomegranates on a side; and all the pomegranates upon the net-work 
were an hundred round about. 



1 Kings VII. 

23. And he made a molten sea, ten cubits, 
from the one brim to the other: it was 
round all about, and his height was five 
cubits : and a line of thirty cubits did 
compass it round about. 

24. And under the brim of it round about 
there were knops compassing it, ten in a 



2 Chr. IV. 

2. And he made a molten sea of ten cubits 
from brim to brim, round in compass, and 
five cubits the height thereof : and a lino 
of thirty cubits did compass it round 
about. 

3. And under it was the similitude of oxen, 
which did compass it round ab^ut; ten 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



279 



Harmony of the Scriptures descriptive of the Temple. 



1 Kings VII. 2 Chr. IV. 

cubit, compassing the sea round: the in a cubit compassing it round about, 
knops were cast in two rows when it was Two rows of oxen were cast when it was 
cast. cast. 

25. It stood upon twelve oxen, three look- 4. It stood upon twelve oxen, three look- 
ing toward the north, and three toward ing toward the north, and three looking 
the west j and three looking toward tho toward the west, and three looking toward 
south, and three looking toward tho east; the south, and three looking toward the 
and the sea was set above upon them; east; and the sea was set abovo upon 
and all their hinder parts were inward. them ; and all their hinder parts were in- 

26. And it was an hand-breadth thick, and 5. ward. And tho thickness of it was an 
the brim thereof was wrought like tho hand-breadth, and the brim of it lilies ; 
brim of a cup, with flowers of lilies; it and it received and held three thousand 
contained two thousand baths.* 10. baths.* And he set the sea on the right- 
side of the east end, over against the 
south. 

27. And he made ten bases of brass ; four cubits was the length of one base, and four 

28. cubits the breadth thereof, and three cubits the height of it. And the work of tho bases 

29. was on this manner; they had borders, and the borders wero between the ledges. And 
on the borders that wero between the ledges, were lions, oxcu, and cherubims : and upon 
the ledges there was a base above ; and beneath the lions and oxen were certain addi- 

30. tions made of thin work. And every base had four brazen wheels, and plates of brass ; 
and the four corners thereof had undersetters ; under the laver were undersetters molten 

31. at the side of every addition. And tho mouth of it within the chapiter and above was 
a cubit: but the mouth thereof was round, after the work of the base, a cubit and a 
half; and also upon the mouth of it were gravings with their borders, four-square, not 

32. round. And under the borders were four wheels, and the axle-trees of the wheels were 

33. joined to tho base, and the height of a wheel was a cubit and a half cubit. And tho 
work of the wheels was like the work of a chariot wheel j their axle-trees and their 

34. naves, and their felloes and their spokes were all molten. And there were four under- 
setters to tho four corners of one base; and the undersetters were of the very baso 

35. itself. And in the top of the base was there a round compass of half a cubit high ; and 

36. on the top of the base the ledges thereof and the borders thereof were of the same. For 
on the plates of the ledges thereof, and on the borders thereof he graved cherubims, 
lions, and palm-trees, according to the proportion of every one, and additions round 

37. about. After this manner he made the ten bases ; all of them had one casting, ono 
measure, and one size. 

38. Then made he ten lavers of brass ; one 6. He made also ten lavers ; and put five 
laver containing forty baths ; and every on the right hand and five on the left, to 
laver was four cubits; and upon every wash in them; such things as they offered 
one of the ten bases one laver. for the burnt offering they washed in 



* Two thousand probably being the capa- 
city of the upper basin or sea proper ; and the 
foot, pedestal, or receptacle on and in which 



it is believed to have stood, containing one 
thousand. 



280 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Harmony of Kings, Chronicles, &c. } descriptive of the Tempk 



1 Kings VII. 2 Che. IV. 

39. And he put five bases on the right side them; but the sea was for the priests tc 
of the house ; and five on the left side wash in. 

of the house ; and he set the sea on the right side of the house, eastward, over against 
the south. And Hiram made the lavers and the shovels and the basins. 

8. He made also ten tables, and placed 
them in the temple, five on the right side, and five on the left : and ho made an hundred 
basins of gold. (11). And Hiram made the pots and the shovels and the basins. 
45. And the pots and the shovels and the 16. The pots also and the shovels and the 
basins ; and all the vessels which Hiram flesh-hooks, and all their instruments, did 



made to king Solomon for the house of 
the Lord were of bright brass. 
48. And Solomon made all the vessels that 
pertained to the house of the Lord; the 
altar of gold and the table of gold where- 
upon the show-bread was. 



19. 



1. 



Huram his father make to king Solomon 
for the house of the Lord, of bright brass. 

And Solomon made all the vessels that 
were for the house of God, the golden 
altar also, and the tables whereon the 
show-bread was set. 

Moreover he made an altar of brass, 



twenty cubits the length thereof, and twenty cubits the breadth thereof, and ten cubits 
the height thereof. 

7. And ho made ten candlesticks of gold, 
according to their form, and set them in 
the temple, five on the right hand and 
19. five on the left. And Solomon made all 
the vessels that were in the house of God, 



49. And the candlesticks of pure gold, five 
on the right side and five on the left, be- 
fore the oracle, with the flowers, and the 

50. lamps and the tongs of gold ; And the 
bowls and the snuffers, and the basins 
and the spoons, and the censers, of pure 
gold ; and the hinges of gold ; both for 
the doors of the inner house, the most 
holy place, and for the doors of the house, 
to wit, of the temple. 



20. 



21. 



the golden altar also, and the tables, 
whereon the show-bread was set. More- 
over the candlesticks with their lamps, 
that they should burn after the manner 
before the oracle, of pure gold. 

And the flowers and the lamps, and the 
(22). And the snuffers and the basins, 



tongs made he of gold — and that perfect gold 

and the spoons and the censers, of pure gold. 
VI. 37. In the fourth year was tho foundation of the house of the Lord laid, in the month 
38. of Zif : and in the eleventh year, in the month Bui (which is tho eighth month), was 

the house finished throughout all the parts thereof; and according to all the fashion of 

it. So was he seven years in building it. 
1st Chr. xxvi. 12 — 18 — (Gates of the outer enclosure of the Temple). On the north was 
one gate under Zechariah the porter (a wise counsellor), and four Levites : On the east, one, 
under Shelemiah the porter, and six Levites : on the south, two, under Obed-edom and Sons 
porters, and four Levites : and on the west, three (Shallecheth above, and two in Parbar), 
under Shuppim and Hosah porters, and four Levites. 



Of the four gates of the western wall of the Temple, mentioned 
by Josephus, the one that led "by the causeway of the going up" 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 281 
Gates of the Temple. 

to the king's palace across the Tyropoeon, was undoubtedly situated 
immediately over the remains of the bridge now visible, thirty-nine 
feet from its southern extremity — termed Shallecheth, 1 Chr. xxvi. 
16, and High Gate, 2 Chr. xxiii. 20. The passage over the bridge 
seems to have corresponded exactly with the middle walk of the royal 
portico. Of the two that led to Parbar or the suburbs (1 Chr. xxvi. 
16, 18), the portal I discovered underneath the present Mograbin 
Gate is undoubtedly one ; the other probably occupied the site of 
the present gate, near the Mekhemeh ; and the Cotton Bazaar Gate 
is no doubt the representative of that which « led to the other city." 
The Talmud makes mention of only one gate in this wall — Copo- 
nius, or Kephinus ; but this is evidently a mere omission — not 
being visible from within, inasmuch as they were situated in the 
bottom of the wall in Parbar, and gave entrance to the Temple 
through subterranean passages. That it had more than one, is 
sufficiently evident from the 16th and 18th verses of the 26th chap- 
ter of 1 Chronicles ; and that it had four, we have the explicit 
testimony of Josephus. The gate Coponius may have been named 
after the Roman general, as Antonia was in honor of Mark An- 
tony — and may have been the gate leading from Antonia into the 
Lower City, and if so was doubtless very stately and magnificent ; 
but the probability is that it is but another name for the gate lead- 
ing over to Zion — and if allusion is made only to the Temple gates, 
strictly speaking, this must necessarily be the case. The expres- 
sions used both by Josephus and Rabbi Yehudah in relation to the 
gates on the south — though somewhat equivocal in some respects — 
are sufficiently descriptive of the triple and double gateways now 
found there. Some of the Talmuclists are very explicit — not only 
assigning two gates, but making them equidistant from the corners, 
and from each other. That there were more than one, seems also 
to be intimated 1 Chr. xxvi. 15. They are situated just as might 
be inferred from what Josephus says of them — the one for general 
purposes, and the other probably for the priests, Levites, Nethenim, 
Stationary-men, &c, "about its middle." The western one, is the 



282 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Gates. Red Heifer Bridge. 

Huldah Gate of traditicn. May not the other be what the Talmud 
calls the Priests' Gate ? Josephus, in his description of the Temple, 
is entirely silent in relation to the gates of the north and east en- 
closures; but in giving an account of the siege (W. vi. iv : 2) he inci- 
dentally speaks of "gates" in the northern wall: there were, there- 
fore, at least two on that side. The Talmud only makes mention 
of one (Tidi), of which nothing special is said. That there was one 
on the east side, we learn directly from the Talmud, and incidentally 
from the Bible (1 Chr. xxvi. 14) ; and even if there were no written 
intimation of it, we would be bound to infer its existence from a 
necessity for a short and direct communication between the altar 
and Sheep Quarter. It is called Shusan ; and besides giving en- 
trance immediately to the Court of the Gentiles, had, no doubt, also 
a subterraneous passage for victims, terminating in or near the 
slaughtering department, close to the altar. It was lower by five 
cubits than any other gate, in order that the priests, when sprink- 
ling the blood of the red heifer (about to be burnt on Mount Olivet) 
toward the altar, might be enabled to look over this gate (along the 
lofty bridge), and through the Beautiful and Nicanor Gates, and get 
a view of the altar. 

The Rabbins say, that " such a foot causey also (as the Red Heifer 
Bridge) they made, upon which they led away the scape-goat ; both 
were built at the charges of the public treasure, which was in the 
Temple." 

In order to make assurance doubly sure in guarding the " clean 
person" that was to sprinkle the "clean water" upon the unclean, 
the more effectually against defilement from contact with the dead, 
or a near vicinity to a grave, the Jews resorted to the following ex- 
pedient, as detailed by Dr. Lightfoot out of the Rabbinical writings. 
" Therefore that such persons might be had, there were arches 
wrought in a rock in Jerusalem, after the manner forementioned, 
and houses built over those arches. Some courts were built upon a 
rock, under which there was made a hollow, that by no means any 
sepulchre might be there. Hither they brought some teeming 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



283 



Arrangement for securing clean persons. 

women, that they might be delivered there, and might there also 
bring forth their children, and the reason of that curiosity was, that 
those children, there born and brought up, "where they w r ere so 
secure from being touched by a sepulchre, might be clean without 
doubt, and fit to sprinkle with purifying water, such as were pol- 
luted with a dead carcase. (L. ii. 34.) This was one of the < memo- 
rable places' of the city, and thither, as to a place secure from 
graves, certain women with child were brought, when they were near 
to the time of their delivery, and there they were brought to bed ; 
and their children were there brought up continually, for this very 
employment, that they might be ready as they were capable, and 
as there was occasion to sprinkle these other, which, when any of 
them went to do, he rode on a seat on oxen's back, first to the Pool 
of Siloam, where he lighted in the water, for there he might pre- 
sume there w~as no grave to defile him, filled his pitcher, and got up 
again, rode to Mount Olivet, besprinkled the party that was to be 
cleansed, and rode in like manner to his cell again." (i. 982.) The 
place where the cow was burnt was also arched over for fear of pol- 
lution. The elders headed the procession, and when the priests 
came up, he bathed himself there. Nine cows had been burnt from 
from Moses to the Messiah, and another performance of the cere- 
mony was in contemplation about the time of his death. 

What rapturous emotions of wonder, awe, and delight must have 
filled the mind and heart of the devout worshipper going "up to 
the House of the Lord !" Crossing the cyclopean Tyropoeon Bridge, 
and entering the Temple area by the High Gate of the House of 
the Lord — the royal entrance — what a magnificent spectacle was 
presented to his admiring gaze by the triple cloister, called the 
Stoa Basilica — the royal portico, just in front of him, with its 
triple colonnades of its one hundred and sixty-two magnificent 
columns ! On his left, and extending all around on the west, north, 
and east sides, were superb cloisters and colonnades, but not so 
broad, lofty, elegant, and imposing as the southern or royal cloister 
immediately in front. To these colonnades and cloisters (most of 



284 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Courts and appurtenances of the Temple. 

which were occupied by the Levites), the Doctors of the Law were 
accustomed to resort in order to expound the law, and be interro- 
gated by the people. It was no doubt in one of these places that 
the sorrowing mother of the young child Jesus found him « sitting 
in the midst of the doctors, both hearing them and asking them 
questions." It was here too that the Messiah so often refuted the 
scribes, Pharisees, and doctors of the law. It was also in the east- 
ern cloister, called "Solomon's Porch," that Peter preached his 
second recorded discourse. (Acts iii.) And probably also, it was in 
this same place that the first converts " continued daily with one 
accord, praising and blessing God." The pinnacle of the Temple, 
upon which our Lord was tempted of the devil, was perhaps the 
loftiest part of the southern portico, and not the summit of the 
house itself, as generally supposed. It is at least certain that from 
this point to the ground, on the exterior, was by far the greatest 
elevation about the premises; and Josephus declares that "if any 
one looked down from the top of the battlements into the Valley of 
the Kedron, which here bends around the Temple, he would be 
giddy, while his sight could not reach to such an amazing depth." 
Passing through this enclosing cloister, the worshipper found him- 
self in a very large and magnificent court, paved with the finest 
variegated marble, surrounded on all sides by the magnificent piazza 
or covered walk in front of the cloisters. This is the great Court 
of the Gentiles, containing fifteen or twenty acres, and was entered 
by several subterranean gateways, as well as those on its own level. 
It was in this outer court that Jesus found in the Temple those that 
sold oxen, and sheep, and doves, and the changers of money sitting. 
And when he had made a scourge of small cords, he drove them out 
of the Temple, and the sheep and the oxen, and poured out the 
changers' money, and overturned the tables, and said unto them 
that sold doves, Take these things hence ; make not my Father's 
house an house of merchandise. (John ii. 14-16.) 

The north-western quarter of this area was occupied by that 
splendid pile of buildings consisting of the Holy House, and its 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 285 

Appurtenances of the Temple. 

immediate courts and appendages. This more sacred enclosure was 
separated from the remainder of the great outer court by the sacred 
balustrade or wall of partition, called Hil, or Soreg, beyond 
which it was death for any Gentile or even an unclean Jew to go. 
It was for the supposed offence of " polluting the Holy Places 
beyond, by bringing some Gentiles within this place, that such a 
clamor was raised against the Apostle Paul. (Acts xxi : 28.) 

The purified worshipper, on proceeding beyond this wall through 
any of its numerous openings, ascended a flight of steps, and found 
himself on a broad platform, extending all around the cloisters and 
courts within, called the rampart or Chel. Passing through the 
large gate on the east, or either of the easternmost gates on the 
north or south sides, he finds himself in the new court — generally 
styled Women's Court, where the treasury chests were kept — the 
large court, in which worship was generally offered, and beyond 
which the women were not permitted to go, except when they 
brought a sacrifice. It was to this court, no doubt, that the " two 
men went up to pray," as related by the beloved Physician (Luke 
xviii: 10 — 14), "the one a Pharisee, the other a publican," and 
here too, our Saviour delivered the discourse recorded by the 
Apostle John, (viii : 1 — 20.) 

The magnificent Corinthian-brass gate on the east of this court, 
was the Beautiful Gate, where the cripple was healed by the Apostle. 
(Acts iii. 2-11.) Ascending a flight of semicircular steps, and pass- 
ing through another magnificent gate called Nicanor, on the western 
side of the court, whose ponderous leaves required the strength of 
twenty men to open or close them, the worshipper found himself in 
the small Court of Israel, just beyond which was the Court of the 
Priests, in which stood the Holy Pane itself — whose splendor and 
magnificence surpassed all description. 

It was upon these steps that the Levites are supposed to have 
stood when they chanted the "Psalms of Degrees," (120-134,) at 
the Feast of Tabernacles. It was here that the wife suspected of 
infidelity underwent the trial of bitter water ; and here too that the 



286 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Judgment Hall. Gabbatha. Sacredness of tbe Temple. 

mother appeared for purification ; and the leper stood to be cleansed 
from his loathsome disease. 

The upper half of the Temple area appertained to the Castle or 
Acropolis of Antonia, and was adorned with magnificent palatial 
as well as military structures, courts, bathing-places, &c, &c. 

The Judgment Hall, where the "King of the Jews" was so 
wickedly and cruelly mocked and maltreated, was doubtless a large 
room in this magnificent palatial fort. Qabbatlia, or the Pavement, 
a place evidently contiguous to the Hall, is generally supposed to 
have been the mere paved floor of the area of Antonia. But as the 
etymology of the term would seem to require elevation, it is rather 
to be inferred that if it was not a regularly elevated platform, sur- 
mounted with a seat of judgment, it was at least a portion of the 
upper cloister used as a tribunal or judgment seat. The Castle 
being built upon the lofty solid rock, it could have no low story ; the 
Hall must therefore necessarily have been located as high, probably, 
as the top of the cloisters. (John xviii. 28, and xix. 13.) 

There appears to have been a stairway, leading from the Antonia 
yard at this corner, to the Castle, or at least to the cloisters above, 
in connexion with it. It was here that Paul was led up into the 
Castle and made his defence from the stairs. (Acts xxi. 35-40.) 

" Concerning the high veneration which the Jews cherished for 
their Temple, Dr. Harwood has collected some interesting parti- 
culars from Philo, Josephus, and the writings of Luke. Their rev- 
erence for the sacred edifice was such, that rather than witness its 
defilement, they would cheerfully submit to death. They could not 
bear the least disrespectful or dishonorable thing to be said of it. 
The least injurious slight of it, real or apprehended, instantly 
awakened all the choler of a Jew, and was an affront never to be 
forgiven. Our Saviour, in the course of his public instructions, 
happening to say, < Destroy this Temple, and in three days I will 
raise it up again,' (John ii. 19) — it was construed into a contempt- 
uous disrespect, designedly thrown out against the Temple — his 
words instantly descended into the heart of a Jew, and kept rank- 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



287 



Jewish reverence of the Temple. 

ling there for several years ; for upon his trial, this declaration, which 
it was impossible for a Jew ever to forget or to forgive, was alleged 
against him, as big with the most atrocious guilt and impiety. (Matt, 
xxvi. 61.) Nor was the rancor and virulence, which this expres- 
sion had occasioned, at all softened by all the affecting circumstances 
of that excruciating and wretched death they saw him die — even 
as he hung upon the cross, with infinite triumph, scorn and exulta- 
tion, they upbraided him with it, contemptuously shaking their heads, 
and saying, < thou who couldest demolish our Temple and rear 
it up again, in all its splendor, in the space of three days, do now 
save thyself, and descend from the cross !' (Matt, xxvii. 40.) Their 
superstitious veneration for the Temple further appears from the 
account of Stephen. When his adversaries were baffled and con- 
founded by that superior wisdom and those distinguished gifts he 
possessed, they were so exasperated at the victory he had 
gained over them, that they went and suborned persons to swear 
that they had heard him speak blasphemy against Moses and against 
God. Thus inflaming the populace, the magistrates, and the Jewish 
clergy, he was seized, dragged away, and brought before the Sanhe- 
drim. Here the false witnesses, whom they had procured, stood up 
and said — ' This person before you is continually uttering the most 
reproachful expressions against this sacred place,' (Acts vi. 13), 
meaning the Temple. This was blasphemy not to be pardoned. A 
judicature composed of high priests and scribes would never forgive 
such impiety. We witness the same thing in the case of Paul, when 
they imagined that he had taken Trophimus, an Ephesian, with him 
into the Temple, and for which insult they had determined to imbrue 
their hands in his blood. (Acts xxi. 28, &c.) 

" We have only to add that, from several passages of Scripture, 
it appears that the Jews had a body of soldiers who guarded the 
Temple, to prevent any disturbance during the ministration of such 
an immense number of priests and Levites. To this body of men, 
whose office it was to guard the Temple, Pilate probably referred 
when he said to the chief priests and Pharisees, who waited on him 



288 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Reverence for the Temple. 

to desire he would make the sepulchre secure, " You have a watch : 
go your way, and make it secure as you can." (Matt, xxvii. 65.) 
Over these guards one person had the supreme command, who, in 
several places, is called Captain of the Temple, or Officer of the 
Temple Guards. (Acts iv. 1 ; v. 25, 26 ; xviii. 12.) Josephus men- 
tions such an officer. (Ant. 20, 2 ; Wars, c. 17, 2.) 

The holiness of the place, and the injunction (of Lev. xix. 3), 
" Ye shall reverence my sanctuary," laid the people under an obli- 
gation to maintain a solemn and holy behavior when they came to 
worship in the Temple. We have already seen that such as were 
ceremonially unclean were forbidden to enter the sacred court on 
pain of death; but, in the course of time, there were several prohi- 
bitions enforced by the Sanhedrim, which the law had not named. 

The following have been collected by Lightfoot, out of the Rabbi- 
nical writings. (1.) "No man might enter the mountain of the 
house with his staff." (2.) "None might enter in thither with his 
shoes on his feet" — though he might with his sandals. (3.) "Nor 
might any man enter the mountain of the house with his scrip on." 
(4.) " Nor might he come in with the dust on his feet," but he must 
wash or wipe them, " and look to his feet when he entered into the 
house of God," to remind him, perhaps, that he should then shake 
off all worldly thoughts and affections. (5.) " Nor with money 
in his purse." He might bring it in his Jiand, however ; and in this 
way it was brought in for various purposes. If this had not been 
the case, it would seem strange that the cripple should have been 
placed at the gate of the Temple to ask alms of those who entered 
therein. (See Acts iii. 2.) (6.) "None might spit in the Temple. 
If he were necessitated to spit, it must be done in some corner of 
his garment." (7.) "He might not use any irreverent gesture, 
especially before the gate of Nicanor," that being exactly in front 
of the Temple. (8.) " He might not make the mountain of the 
house a thoroughfare," for the purpose of reaching the place by a 
nearer way: for it was devoted to the purposes of religion." (9.) 
" He that went into the court must go leisurely and gravely into his 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 289 
Temple furniture — its disposition. 

place ; and there he must demean himself as in the presence of the 
Lord God, in all reverence and fear." (10.) "He must worship 
standing, with his feet close to each other, his eyes directed to the 
ground, his hands upon his breast, with the right one above the 
left." (See Luke xviii. 13.) (11.) "No one, however weary, 
might sit down in the court." The only exception was in favor of 
the kings of the House of David. (12.) "None might pray with 
his head uncovered. And the wise men and their scholars never 
prayed without a veil." This custom is alluded to in 1 Cor. xi. 4, 
where the Apostle directs all men to reverse the practice adopted in 
the Jewish Temple. (13.) Their bodily gesture, in bowing before 
ine Lord, was either "bending on the knees," "bowing the head," 
or "falling prostrate on the ground." (14.) Having performed 
the service, and being about to retire, " They might not turn their 
backs upon the altar." They therefore went backward, till they 
were out of the court. 

The Sacred Furniture of the Temple. — The ultimate fate of the 
holy vessels and sacred apparatus of the Temple is a subject that has 
excited ^much inquiry, and well merits a passing notice. It is a 
very general belief that amongst the spoils of the Temple carrifd 
to Rome by Titus were the identical candlestick, golden altar and 
table, the silver trumpets, &c, that had been provided by Solomon ; 
but this is a great mistake. Such of this furniture as was brought 
back from Babylon by the Jews on returning from captivity was 
carried to Antioch by Antiochus Epiphanes, when he despoiled 
Jerusalem, " and emptied the Temple of its secret treasures and left, 
nothing at all remaining." The sacred trophies carried away by 
Titus were those with which the Holy House was furnished by Judas 
Maccabeus on purifying the Temple after its profanation and deser- 
tion. On reaching Rome, the golden vessels and other sacred im- 
plements were deposited in the temple of Concord ; and although 
some of them may have fallen a prey to the devouring element 
when that temple was destroyed, A. D. 191, yet history distinctly 
informs us that they fell into the hands of Alaric, when he sacked 
19 



290 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Temple furniture — is it still in existence ? 

the city, A. D. 410. And about half a century afterwards most or. 
all of them seem to have been carried to Carthage by Genseric, 
king of the Vandals, when the city fell into his ruthless hands, 
but seem to have been returned to Rome, or at least recovered by 
the Romans, after the victory of Belisarius. There appear to be 
reliable notices of them both at Ravenna and at Constantinople 
afterwards ; and tradition, at least, reports that they were finally 
restored to Jerusalem by the Emperor Justinian, and it is supposed 
by many that they still lie concealed in some of the secret subter- 
ranean recesses of the Temple Mount. 

A finely executed piece of sculpture representing the articles of 
Temple furniture exhibited in the triumphal procession of Titus, is 
still to be seen, in a tolerable state of preservation, within the Arch 
of Titus at Rome. 



REFERENCES TO PLAN OF TEMPLE. 



SECTIONS AND ELEVATIONS. 



GROUND PLAN OF THE TEMPLE. 

1, 1, 1, 1, 1 Piazza or Colonnade and Cloister — en- 
closing the whole area of Antonia and the 
Temple, and also dividing the former from the 
latter. That on the south is the Royal Colon- 
nade or Stoa Basilica; and that east of the 
Sanctuary, Solomon's Porch. 

2 The traditional Gate of Huldah. 

3 Triple Gate— probably the " Priest's Gate" — to 

the east of which is a small doorway, giving 
entrance to the substructures. 

4 Shusan or East Gate. 

5 The present Golden Gate — formerly giving en- 

trance apparently to a tower, probably the 
Tower of Meah. 

6 The gate which led to Akra by steps. 

7 and 8 The two Parbar Gates. 
9 Shallecheth, High Gate or Prison Gate (Coponius 

also). Titdi Gate seems to have been in the 
wall dividing the Temple from Antonia. 
10, 10, 10 Court of the Gentiles. 

12 Court of Women. 

13 Court of Priests. 

14 Court of Israel. 

15 Hil, Soreg or Sacred Partition Pence. 

16 Steps leading to Chell or Rampart surrounding 

the Cloisters, 
a Gate of Kindling, 
b Gate of Firstlings, 
c Water Gate, 
d Women's Gate, south, 
e Beautiful Gate, 
f Women's Gate, north, 
g Gate of Offerings or Corban. 
h Gate Nitzouts. 
i Gate of Song? 
j Nicanor. 
k Thrigcos. 
1 Altar. 

m Inclined Plane or Steps to Altar, 
n Brazen Sea. 

o, o Places for Slaughtering Knives, 
p Slaughtering Apartment, rings, tables, 

beams, hooks, &c. 
q Porch. 

r Holy Place — containing Altar of Incense, 

Candlestick, and Table of Showbread. 
s Most Holy Place, containing Ark, &c. 

Around the Holy and Holiest, or the 

Holy House, are 
t The Chambers— and beyond and around 

these 
u The Impluvium. 

17 Room for Lepers. 

18 Room for Wood. 

19 Room for Nazarites. 

20 Room for Oil. 

21 Treasury Chests. 

22 Royal Cistern. 

In the cloisters on the north and south sides : 
of the Court of the Priests, are various apart- 
ments, for different purposes: — Golah, sheep- 
shearing, selected sheep, bath and house of < 
kindling, washing sacrifices, Paroch, sheep- 
skins, bath, salt magazine, wood, warming 
apartments, showbread room, room of the i 
Asmoneans (where the desecrated stones of < 
the Altar were kept), and Gazith, where the 
Sanhedrim sometimes sat. Beneath the Court 
of Israel, and opening into the Court of Wo- j 
men, were the wardrobe rooms, and apart- 
ments for musical instruments, culinary 
utensils, &c. 



TEMPLE AND PRECINCTS. 
End View from South — A. 
| a Royal Buildings on Zion. 
! b Tyropoeon Bridge. 
" c Gate Miphkad. 

! d High Gate of Benjamin, Shallecheth, &c. 
e Holy House (side view), 
f Royal Portico. 
[ g Southern Wall of Temple Area. 

h Double Gate, leading subterraneously to the 

Upper Area. (Huldah's.) 
i Triple Gateway, leading subterraneously to the 
Area above. 

j Small door, leading to the substructures of the 

south-east corner. (Apparently modern.) 
k Pastophoria. or "Covert of the Sabbath." 
1 Tower of Ophel. 

Section through the Temple and Courts, the 

Xystus and the Red Heifer Bridge — B. 
a Armory and other public buildings on Mt. Zion. 
b Xystus (northern end), 
c Western Cloister, 
d Hil or Sacred Fence, 
e High wall in the rear of the Temple, 
f Holy House, 
g Altar. 

h Covered Colonnade — the Court of the Priests, 
i Gate Nicanor, in front of Court of Israel, 
j Beautiful Gate. 

k Eastern Cloister — Solomon's Porch. 
1 Pool of Bethesda. 
m City Wall, 
n Red Heifer Bridge. 

Side View from the East — C. 
a Pastophoria. 

b Upper-Central Colonnade in the Royal Basilica, 
c, c Tops of the northern and southern ranges of 

the Inner Cloisters, 
d Shusan or East Gate, 
e Front view of the Temple, 
f Towers of the range of Cloisters north of the 

Temple, 
g Tower. 

h Tower at north-east corner of Temple. 

View from the North — E. 
a Eastern Cloister of the Temple Area, 
b Tower of the eastern range of the Cloisters of the 

Court of the Women, 
c Top of the Cloisters on the east of the Inner 

Temple, 
d Side view of the Temple, 
e Tower of Antonia. 

View from the West— D. 
a Tower of Antonia. 

b Towers of the range of Cloisters north of the 
Temple. 

c. c Towers at the north-west and south-west corners 
of the north and south ranges of the inner 
Cloisters, 
d Rear view of the Temple, 
e Prison Gate at east end of Royal Basilica, 
f Upper and central range of Colonnades in Royal 

Basilica, 
g Northern Parbar Gate, 
h Southern Parbar Gate, 
i "Gate that led to the other city." 
j Abutment of Tyropoeon Bridge. 




PLAN, ELEVATION and SECTION o? the TEMPLE AND its "PRECIN t CTS. 



CHAPTER X. 



WATER SUPPLY OF JERUSALEM. 

" A. good land — a land of brooks of water, of fountains and depths that spring out of valleys 

and hills." 

That the proud capital of Israel was originally well supplied 
with water is not only fairly inferable from the peculiar customs of 
the Jews, and palpably evident from the numerous and magnificent 
waterwork remains of antiquity ; but is abundantly proved by the 
inimpeachable testimony of ancient writers — both sacred and pro- 
fane. The entire absence of rain during so large a portion of the 
year, and the surprising fertility of the soil when irrigated under a 
Syrian sun, could but induce the Jews to bestow much attention upon 
the construction of cisterns not only for storing away the rain fall- 
ing on housetops for table use and other domestic purposes, but such 
of that falling in the fields as could be conducted by channels into 
large artificial basins or caverns, for agricultural as well as horticul- 
tural purposes. The winter rain was to them what the Nile was to 
the Egyptians. And accordingly the vestiges of such channels and 
reservoirs are to be seen everywhere throughout the country. AYe 
can arrive at no other conclusion than that the reservoirs and baths 
must have abounded in the Holy City, when it is remembered the 
divers washings of the law were so greatly multiplied by the tradi- 
tions of the elders, that " the Pharisees, and all the Jews, except 
they wash their hands oft, eat not ; and when they come from the 
market, except they wash they eat not ; and many other things * * 



292 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Extract from Trail's Josephus. 

* * as the washing of cups and pots and brazen vessels, and of 
tables." (Mark vii. 3, 4.) 

Upon this much controverted subject Dr. Trail expresses himself 
very appositely as follows: — (Trail's Jos. pp. 58-61.) 

Perhaps upon no city of the ancient world had greater cost been 
bestowed, or more skill shown, in securing for it an unfailing supply 
of water ; and such was the repute of Jerusalem in this particular, 
that its strength as a fortification is frequently alluded to by profane 
writers, as including this grand and indispensable means of sustain- 
ing a lengthened siege. Thus, Strabo having mentioned the fact 
generally that Jerusalem, situated in the midst of a district desti- 
tute of water, was itself abundantly supplied therewith, presently 
afterwards ; and, while referring to the capture of the city by Pom- 
pey, states that he took it, notwithstanding its substantial munitions, 
and its being abundant in water, while all around was dry: — 
tvtos y.iv swSpov, exT?o$ 8s rtavtshus St^qpov (p. 762), 1106.* To the same 
purport is the often-cited passage in Tacitus (Hist. v. 12), who 
describes the Temple with its porticoes, as a fortress ; and such, in 
fact, it was, well fitted to sustain the frequent sieges to which it 
was liable. 6 Fons perennis aquae, cavati sub terra montes : et 
piscinae cisternaeque servandis imbribus.'f 

In truth, the provision made — and it appears to have been from 
the earliest times of the monarchy — for securing a supply of water 
to the city generally, and to the Temple especially, was of the most 
elaborate kind ; and so well contrived were these works, that they 
continued to be effective for their purposes through the course of 
many centuries ; and indeed are so, in great measure, to the present 
time. Almost every house of the better class, in the modern Jerusa- 
lem, has its capacious tank, occupying the basement, and which, col- 
lecting the water of the rainy season from its courts and roofs, fur- 
nishes an ample supply during the months of drought. Yet, these 



* " Within, truly well watered ; but with- 
out, altogether dry." 

J- " A fountain of perennial water, moun- 



tains hollowed out, underneath : also fish 
pools and cisterns — rain-water being pre- 
served." 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 293 

Extract from Trail's Josephus. 

private reservoirs are not alone relied upon — or were not so in the 
age of national prosperity. 

Whether there be indeed any natural spring of water deep-seated 
within the Temple enclosure, and the waste of which runs off at 
Siloam, cannot perhaps at present be certainly determined : it is a 
question which, with many others of the same kind, must await the 
time when the Holy City comes under the sway of some civilized 
government. 

Whatever may be the source of the waters which supply the 
Haram so copiously, it is certain that these resources were not relied 
upon as sufficient to secure an unfailing abundance of this necessary 
element. We find, therefore, and at so great a distance from the 
city as seven miles, extensive and well constructed reservoirs, un- 
doubtedly of the highest antiquity, the intention of which was to 
collect water to be conveyed thither by ducts, carried upon or 
beneath the surface, and on a due level around the slopes of the 
country, a distance, in its windings, of not less than twelve miles. 
But even this was not enough, for nearer at hand, and more under 
command, the entire surface water of the country, west of the city, 
found its way into two reservoirs — the upper and the lower Gihon 
Pools, as already mentioned. From these tanks — covered no doubt 
originally — two aqueducts conveyed the water ; the one directly to 
the city near the Jaffa Gate, the other in a circuit round Zion, on 
its southern side, and toward the Temple.* The waters of the 
Upper Pool, when redundant, flowing on to the more spacious reser- 
voir, called the Lower Pool, and upon the brink of which means 
were taken for readily watering the cattle of the surrounding 



* The learned commentator is probably- 
mistaken in this assertion — at least there are 
no vestiges of such an aqueduct at the present 
day; and, moreover, the pool being deeper 
than any portion of Zion that was ever in- 
cluded within the city walls, there could have 



been no special occasion for such an aqueduct. 
The aqueduct now conveying water around 
the slopes of Zion, is from neither the Upper 
nor Lower Pool, but from " Solomon's Pools,'' 
at Etham. 



294 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Extract from Trail's Josephus. 

There are frequent allusions in Josephus and other writers to 
deep-seated aqueducts within and without the city. 

In the many sieges which the Holy City has sustained during the 
lapse of ages, the same course of events nearly is presented — the 
sufferings of the besieged from hunger, and of the besiegers from 
thirst. A scarcity of water does not seem ever to have aggravated 
the miseries that were endured within the walls ;* while the want 
of it without has, in each instance, tormented the assailants. 

"Wealth, intelligence, and constructive skill, to an extent which 
has not been well understood by modern writers, were undoubtedly 
at the command of the early Jewish monarchs ; and while the storms 
of war, ravaging their land from age to age, have swept from the sur- 
face almost every monument of its early greatness, so much of the 
national resources as were providently expended beneath the surface, 
in works of primary importance, has been — in its wrecks at least — 
conserved, these to the present time, to claim, what they so well 
deserve, the enlightened attention of Biblical archaeologists. The 
Temple of Solomon and of Herod has been rased, yet its substruc- 
tures still, and not obscurely, shadow forth its greatness. The cedar 
roofs of a hundred palaces, blazing with gold, are no more ; but the 
ample and well-contrived reservoirs which those palaces bestrode, 
still exist ; and still subserve their purpose. The terraced gardens, 
the "paradises" of the kings and nobles of Jerusalem, have long 
been desolated ; but even now around the slopes of the hills may be 
traced, mile after mile, the aqueducts whence those gardens drew 
perpetual verdure, and which then poured their superfluous streams 
into the deep bosom of Moriah ! 

It may be appropriate, in passing, to call the reader's attention 
to that occult connexion of causes which, no doubt, had much influ- 



* This is not literally true, though asserted 2. It is also more than intimated by Ezekiel 

by so many authors ; for, in the 161st or 162d that there was a very great scarcity of water 

Olympiad, when Antiochus laid siege to in the final siege by the Chaldeans. (Ezek. 

Jerusalem, the Jews "were once in want of iv. 17.) 
water," as Josephus informs us, Ant. xiii. ix : 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



295 



Extract from Trail's Josephus. 

ence in securing to the ancient, and so to the modern Jerusalem, an 
unfailing supply of water. The Jewish public worship was, if we 
might so term it, a ceremonial of ablution ; and Judaism, considered 
as a personal and domestic scheme of life, was a routine of endless 
washings. Now, one would have thought, on grounds of ordinary 
calculation, that the founder of such an institute — of this public 
ritual, and of this individual ceremonial — the promulgator of this 
religion of "divers baptisms," of this scheme of life for a nation, 
demanding that their persons and utensils should often be washed, 
and should daily be plunged in water, was looking forward, from the 
scorched wilderness of Sinai, to some region of many streams, and 
of gushing fountains, as the destined home of his people. One 
would have thought that Moses was intending to make — not Jeru- 
salem, but Damascus the metropolis of the Israelitish worship. 
Jerusalem, reared among limestone mountains, and scarcely blessed, 
within a circuit of many miles, with so many as two or three natural 
springs,* and yet this very city, this central point as it is of drought, 
has, from age to age, known no thirst within its walls ! The series 
of writers from Strabo down to William of Tyre, use almost the 
same phrases, at once in describing the aridity of the region, and in 
attesting the fact that within the city there was always water enough 
and to spare ! 

Now it is obvious to remark that this abundance, so important to 
the health and comfort of a densely crowded city, has been the con- 
sequence of this very peculiarity of the religious system of the 
people. This system, demanding so large a supply of water, has, 
from the earliest age, secured to the population as ample a supply 
as is enjoyed by the inhabitants of cities that are the most favored 
in this respect by their nearness to rivers, and by the copiousness 
of natural springs. In Jerusalem the collection and conservation 
of the rains of the winter months, became, at the impulse of a reli- 



* The Doctor is again at fault in this asser- 
tion. Within a circuit swept by a radius of 



seven miles, there are no less than thirty or 
forty natural springs. 



296 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Testimony of ancient authors concerning its water resources. 

gious necessity, the first law of the municipal economy of the 
state." 

But besides the above-cited testimony of Strabo and Tacitus, who 
depose as to the water resources of Jerusalem, in the first century 
of the Christian era, just at the period of its subversion by the 
Romans, it may be well, by way of attestation, at least to adduce the 
testimony of other historians and travellers of a date anterior to that 
event, as well as long subsequent to it — even down to our own days. 

That Jerusalem was well supplied with water during the high- 
priesthood of Simon the Just, three hundred years before the Chris- 
tian era, we may well infer from the 50th chapter and 3d verse of 
Ecclesiasticus, where, amongst other matters concerning the repa- 
ration of the Temple, it is specially recorded that "in his days the 
cistern to receive water, being in compass as the sea, was covered 
or lined with plates of brass."* What is here called a "sea" is 
no doubt the great subterranean cistern I discovered beneath the 
Temple area, reference to which is also made by a highly favored 
explorer of Jerusalem, a few years after the high-priesthood of 
Simon — the celebrated Aristeas, who was sent by Ptolemy Philadel- 
phus on a special mission to Eliezur, high priest of the Jews, rather 
more than two and a half centuries before Christ, for the purpose 
of securing an authentic and authorized version of the Hebrew Scrip- 
tures into Greek — the Septuagint. (Ant. xii. ii : 1, 15.) Aristeas, 
in writing his brother an account of his visit to the Holy City, 
speaks thus of its water resources and appliances: — "A powerful 
natural spring is received into subterranean reservoirs, the extent 
of which is surprising and beyond description, to the circumference 
of five stadia about the Temple. They are connected by number- 
less pipes, through which the waters flow from one to another. 
There are above, frequent hidden apertures to these depths, known 
only to those employed at the sacrifices, through which the water, 
gushing out with force, washes off all the blood of the numerous 
victims. The reservoirs have their floors and sides cased with lead,* 



* Brass — lead — a pointed, yet immaterial discrepancy. 



JERUSALEM — 



A S IT WAS. 



297 



Testimony of Aristeas. 

and are covered over with a quantity of earth." According to Dr. 
Lightfoot, vol. i. p. 2010, " Aristeas, who was an eye-witness and 
spectator of it, giveth testimony of this conveyance of water in 
these words : — 1 There was a continual supply of water, as if there 
had sprung an abundant fountain underneath : and there were won- 
derful and unexpressible receptacles underground, as appeared five 
furlongs' space about the Temple, each one of which had divers 
pipes, by which waters came in on every side : all these were of 
lead, under ground, and much earth laid upon them. And there 
were many vents on the pavements, not to be seen at all but to those 
that served ; so that in a trice and easily all the blood of the sacri- 
fices could be washed away, though it were never so much. And I 
will tell you how I came to know of these underground receptacles : 
they brought me out more than four furlongs' space out of the city, 
and one bad me stoop down and listen what a noise the meeting of 
the waters made.' " 

The Talmud, in speaking of the "draw-well room," says, "that 
fountain was twenty-three cubits deep." " It was at the west end 
of the famous room Gazith," says the same authority, " where a well 
was sunk with a wheel over it, and from thence they fetched up 
water to serve all the court. It was not a little water that was used ; 
and yet the temple never wanted. In some places there were baths 
on the very tops of the gates : on the roof of the water gate and 
the incense room there were baths for the high priest ; for although 
the bathing-place on the top of Happorah was the place where he 
washed oftenest on the day of expiation, yet here he washed first. 
On the top of the adjoining room there was also another bath. 
Five times he bathed his body and ten times he washed his hands, 
on the day of expiation." 

Aristeas, however, though so well sustained by the Talmud, is uni- 
versally charged with the grossest exaggeration in this account ; and 
by many is discredited in toto. But my explorations of the sacred 
enclosure go so far to exculpate and sustain his statement, that — bat- 
ing the allowable hyperbole of an Oriental and especially a native of 



298 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Waters of the Temple. 

the land of hieroglyphics, where there were no "fountains and depths 
springing out of valleys and hills" — it may certainly be regarded 
as highly reliable in the main. That there was an actual independ- 
ent, though perhaps small, fountain* in the Temple enclosure at 
one time, is probable in the highest degree ; and that it was supplied 
with fresh water by an aqueduct, as well as with rain-water, is cer- 
tain. The present aqueduct can be traced within a few yards of it, 
and running directly towards it ; and it is evident from the Middoth 
that there was a large subterranean reservoir in the south quarter 
of the Temple, supplied by an aqueduct from Etham — -the discharge 
of which into the reservoir is supposed by some to have been " the 
coming down of the waters." If there really never was a native 
fountain there, then we must in charity allow that the Egyptian 
chronicler failed to discriminate between the gushing of a natural 
fountain and the effusion of this artificial waterspout. 

But it is not until we have taken into consideration the immense 
capacities of the "Brazen or Molten Sea" and ten lavers, the 
great number of personal ablutions performed by such a vast com- 
pany of priests, the many sacrificial washings, and the innumerable 
purifications to be performed over running water, that we are pre- 
pared to form any proper estimate of the immense amount of water 
constantly flowing through the Temple. 

The Molten Sea that stood in the Court of the Priests, mounted 
upon twelve brazen oxen, was an immense receptacle, about fifteen 
feet broad and seven and a half in depth : its contents were at least 
two hundred barrels, and its capacity is even rated by some authors 
as high as three hundred hogsheads. And the basin in which this 
great receptacle stood is supposed to have contained half this amount. 
The ten lavers probably contained about seven barrels each. 

The Impluvium was a narrow receptacle of water, extending 
around three sides of the Holy House more than three hundred feet 

* I have since received a communication vicinity of the es-Sakhrah, but some distance 
from the effendi, stating that he has disco- below the surface, 
rered a very weak fountain in the immediate 



JERUSALEM— 



AS IT WAS. 



Testimony of ancient writers. 

in length, four and a half in breadth on the sides of the Temple, 
and seven and a half in its rear. 

Eusebius, who was a native of Palestine, and died there about 
the year 340, in making extracts from authors that lived between the 
Apostolic age and the age in which he flourished — incidentally 
gives us some information on that subject. He quotes Timochares as 
saying, " the whole city flowed with water, so that even the gardens 
were irrigated of those flowing waters out of the city. But round 
about for forty stadia to be without [water], but from these forty stadia 
water again to exist." The surveyor of Syria speaks of a fountain 
existing in that place, pouring forth water plentifully : and Philo 
mentions the peculiarities of "the fountain and the pipes of the high 
priests' fountain spouting water." The Bourdeaux Pilgrim remarks 
in the Jerusalem Itinerary, A. D. 333 — " There are, in Jerusalem, 
two large fish pools by the side of the Temple, i. e., one at the right- 
hand, the other at the left, which Solomon made." * * * * * 
" There are there great receptacles of subterranean water and fish 
pools, built with great labor ; and in the house itself, where the 
Temple was which Solomon built." (Itin. Hierosol. p. 152.) And 
again : » But farther in the city are twin fish pools having five 
porches which are called Bethsaida." (Itin. Hierosol. p. 589.) He 
also mentions that the Basilica of Constantine, surrounding the 
Church of the Holy Sepulchre, had receptacles of water at its side 
whence water was raised, and a bath in the rear where infants were 
washed. It is stated as a fact, that while Julian was attempting the 
reedification of the Temple, about A. D. 362, on removing a certain 
foundation stone, the entrance to a rock-hewn cavern was discovered, 
in which, on lowering a laborer by a cord, water was found half way 
up his thigh. Jerome informs us that even in his day — about the 
beginning of the fifth century — « Tophet was a fine and pleasant 
place, well watered with fountains, and adorned with gardens." 
And Omar is said to have performed his ablutions at two fountains 
in Hinnom. The " Placentine Pilgrim," who wrote about A. D. 600, 
says "that an apple, thrown into a certain crypt on the side of 



300 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Testimony of ancient writers. 

Golgotha rock, where noise of running water is heard (flumina 
aquarum), it would afterward be found at Silwan." On the hypo- 
thesis suggested in relation to the course of Hezekiah's subterranean 
conduit, it would pass just by the rock alluded to. 

When Omar took the city (A. D. 637), water was found copiously 
flowing down a pair of steps connected with the Temple. Two 
fountains were also in the " Valley of Hinnom" at that time. The 
beautiful Saracenic fontal structures in the lower part of the city, 
of which four now remain around the Haram enclosure, between 
St. Stephen's Gate and Temple street, in quite good state of pre- 
servation, abundantly attest the fact that the city was well supplied 
with running water during its occupancy by the Saracens. Mr. 
Williams, in the first volume of his "Holy City," gives a very 
interesting account of Omar's reception by the Patriarch, which he 
has gleaned from various sources, as follows : — (p. 316) " Water 
was running down the steps, and through the street which led to the 
city gate, so that great part of the stairs was under water. Then 
said the Patriarch to him : < Thou canst go no farther except by 
crawling on hands and knees.' The Khalif, nothing daunted, 
proceeded thus through the water channel, until he came to a level 
space at the top of a hill, where there were ruins. Here he 
looked about him and contemplated for awhile ; then he said : 
< Ullah Acbar ! By Him, in whose hands is my life, this is that 
which the Apostle of God (on whom be the peace and blessing of 
God !) described to me.' " The steps down which the water was flow- 
ing into the street, were those leading to the double gate in the 
southern wall of the Temple, from the area above or the gate I dis- 
covered in the west wall beneath the present Mugrabin Gate simi- 
larly arranged — more probably the former ; as the water from the 
great Temple reservoir, in front of Akra (supplied by aqueduct 
from Etham), would most readily find egress through that channel 
from the overflowing or bursting subterranean lake. William of 
Tyre speaks of the fountains that were brought from " outer parts 
by aqueducts into fish pools of great quantity (Maxima quantitatis) 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



301 



The Brook Kidron. 

outside the Temple, but beneath the city, beyond the exuberant 
impluvium, (A. D. 1182.) And, about the same time, mention is 
made by Albert of Aix (50, 6), of a royal cistern before the doors 
of the palace, in an excavation, after the manner of a lake in 
amplitude and magnitude. And, in the Gesta Francorum, abundant 
mention is made of the fact that there was a superfluity of water 
within the city, and especially in reservoirs near or within the sacred 
enclosure. Brocardus mentions, in 1283, a large reservoir near St. 
Ann's Church, called " Piscina Interior," just opposite Birket 
Israil, which he calls very great (« grandis valde") even compared 
with the latter ! May they not always have been filled, and well 
stocked with fish ? for William of Tyre informs us that they were 
filled with living water brought from a distance by aqueducts. And 
hence the name of the gate. It was filled with water as late as 
1509, according to Anselm. Mentioned also by Felix Fabri,* and 
many other authors. Piscina gemilares. And into the lower one 
(Birket Israil) George Sandys reported so late as his visit in 1610, 
that " a barren spring doth drill from between the stones of the 
northern wall, and stealeth away almost undiscerned." 

Having taken this general view of the subject, we are the better 
enabled to understand what may be contained in the Scriptures in 
relation to the waters of Jerusalem and environs. 

The Brook Kidron. — This is the first water mentioned by name 
in the annals of Jerusalem and its environs. The term Kidron occurs 
eleven times in the Scriptures, and always with the prefix "brook" 
except once ; and yet it is strenuously contended by some that it 
was a mere valley, and had no stream of water in it — because, for- 
sooth, it has none now, in the present day of scanty rain and still 
scantier herbage ! But that there was a stream of water in the 
Valley of the Kidron during the Bible period of its history is evi- 



* "Nutritur (Jerusalem) aquis de caelo vel Saraceni continuis et cottedianis baptismatus 

a longinquo inductis. Credo quod hodie ma- utuntur, magis quam Judeis igitur lavatoria 

jor cura sit, quo modo civitas provideatur multa babent, et mirabili industria inducunt 

de aquis quam prius unquam fuerit, qui aquas in Jerusalem." 



302 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



The Brook Kedron. 

dent from the Hebrew term with which it is ten times found con- 
nected, which emphatically means a stream of water. Hence we 
read (1 Kings xv. 13) that "Asa destroyed the idol, and burnt it 
by the brook Kedron" — and (2 Kings xxiii. 6) " And he brought 
out the grove from the house of the Lord, without Jerusalem, unto 
the brook Kedron, and burned it at the brook Kedron" — expres- 
sions which would be entirely unnatural and unmeaning upon the 
supposition that Kedron was an unwatered valley. Equally inappro- 
priate would be the expression of Nehemiah (ii. 15), as he went up 
this same valley in his nocturnal reconnoissance of the city walls — 
" then went I up in the night by the brook," &c* 

The fountain that bursts forth during the winter, in a valley entering 
the Kedron from the north, and flowing several hundred yards before 
it sinks, may perhaps be the representative of the true Kedron. It 
is not at all impossible that the Kedron may yet be gliding along far 
below the present rubbish surface of the earth — indeed it is quite 
probable — for the murmuring of a stream may be distinctly heard in 
the valley about two miles below the city apparently quite deep. A 
similar noise was also heard by a shepherd during the period of my 
sojourn in Jerusalem, about two miles south-east of the city, at a 
spot where the natural cleavage of the rock was easily effected even 
by Arab implements ; and, on removing the rocks to the depth of 



* Dr. Robinson observes that the Septua- 
gint, as well as the New Testament and J ose- 
phus, has Kexmarroiis ; which would seem 
to imply a winter torrent. But it must not 
be forgotten that, in Nehemiah's account of 
his nocturnal exploration, the term valley 
twice occurs, and that neither time is it a 
word having any relation to water; but when 
he comes to the brook, then this word is put 
in requisition 

He also remarks that the Hebrew term 
here always used with Kedron — Nakhal — 
" may be taken as nearly equivalent to the 
Arabic Wady f* thus intimating that it may 



be a dry valley. It is the same term, how- 
ever, that is used in 2 Chr. xxxii. 4: "brook 
that ran through the land." Still more de- 
cisive is the passage in 1 Sam. (xxx. 9, 10): 
where the Hebrew term used to designate 
the "brook" over which two hundred men 
were so faint that they could not pass, is 
Nahal — the identical word by which the Ke- 
dron is indicated. But the application of 
this term to the perennial stream that is to 
go forth from the Millennial Jerusalem ("in 
summer and winter shall it be"), is yet more 
unambiguous. (Ezek. xlvii. 5, 6, 7, &c. Zech. 
xiv. 8.) 

• 



JERUSALEM— AS IT WAS. 303 
The Brook Kedron. 

about ten or twelve feet, water was found — though in small quantity, 
in midsummer, when I visited it. Streams that run beneath the 
earth for some miles when their source is not very abundant, but 
also upon the surface when the supply is too great to be vented by 
the channel below, are not at all unfrequent in Palestine. And 
this fact may serve to illustrate the present condition of the Kedron. 
Dr. Robinson, it would seem, had never heard of this occasional 
stream ; and, in commenting on the fact that the Kedron is at pre- 
sent "the dry bed of a wintry torrent," concludes thus: "nor is 
there any evidence that there was anciently more water in it than 
at present." (Bib. Res. i. 402.) But, surely, the Doctor does not 
make sufficient allowance for the diminished amount of rain in the 
present denuded state of the country, nor give credence enough to 
the testimony of travellers of former times. For Benjamin of 
Tudela, who visited Jerusalem in 1163, in speaking of what he saw 
in the Valley of Kedron on leaving the Gate of Jehosaphat, makes 
special mention of the great spring of Shiloah that enters the brook 
Kedron. Dr. Lightfoot, in giving the Rabbinical account of Jeru- 
salem, makes special mention of the "Valley of Kedron, in which 
is a brook whence the valley takes its name." And Sir John 
Maundeville, in speaking also of the Valley of Jehosaphat, so lately 
as 1322, says : "in the middle of the valley is a little river, which 
is called the brook Qedron." William of Tyre and Brocardus tes- 
tify that its subterranean waters were to be heard in their day. 
The traveller who observes two immense pools in a valley on one 
side of Jerusalem, and none in a valley several times as expansive 
on the other side, may well express his surprise. But that there 
was at least one there in ancient times, and that a very large one, 
too, we are assured by the highest possible authority. Nehemiah, 
during his furtive examination of the prostrate wall of Jerusalem, 
having passed around the west and south sides, comes next to the 
eastern side; and, leaving "the gate of the fountain" (Siloam), 
comes to "the king's pool" — but could ride no further, there 
being "no room for the beast that was under him," on account of 



304 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Waters of Gihon. 

this pool (no doubt), which, under such circumstances, would scarcely 
afford room for the Tirshatha to pass through the ruins on the side- 
walk of the pool. This pool may well be located anywhere in the 
lower part of the valley, which is here quite a defile, every part of 
which is admirably adapted to the construction of such reservoirs. 
If situated higher up, in the neighborhood of the Virgin's Fount, 
it would account for his silence in relation to that fountain, and 
might extend a great way up ;• but if situated quite low down, where 
I have restored it in consequence of existing indications, where the 
cliffs of Olivet become less precipitous, it would serve the additional 
purpose of a military defence to that portion of Mount Ophel and also 
be more convenient to the King's Gardens. It is just here, too, 
where the wall makes a more decided curve in facing the east, that 
Josephus locates " Solomon's Pool," (Wars, v. iv: 2,) which is per- 
haps identical with this » King's Pool" of Nehemiah. Unless these 
are different pools, then no more than one reservoir is mentioned by 
any author in all the Valley of Kedron ; but one is still to be found 
(in a very dilapidated and patched-up condition*) four or five hun- 
dred yards north of the Tombs of the Kings ; and about midway 
between that and the shallow wady down which the winter stream 
flows, are some slight vestiges of two or three others. It is highly 
probable, also, that a portion of the waters of Kedron was conducted 
along the western slope of the valley, high enough to be received 
into the Sheep Market, where cattle were temporarily kept in pre- 
paration for the altar. 

Waters of Gihon — "The brook that flowed through the land" — 
The next mention of the waters of Jerusalem occurs in the nar- 
rative of Solomon's sudden accession to the throne. (1 Kings i. 33, 
38, 45.) It would appear (from 2 Chr. xxxiii. 30) that there were 
two fountains or other water localities in Gihon — the upper and the 



* And although this may appear to be a one of the least, doubtful vestiges' of anti- 
modern structure, yet it is doubtless very quity in all Palestine ; for among the present 
ancient; for Dr. Robinson well observes that race of inhabitants such works are utterly 
" these reservoirs" he learned to consider as unknown. (Bib. Res. i. 483.) 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



305 



Gihon — fountain and pool. 

lower. The lower and nearer one was undoubtedly that at w r hich 
Solomon was anointed king ; and was situated somewhere between 
Akra and Bezetha (or Moriah), serving, perhaps, as a trench to 
Salem on the north, east, or west. An additional reason for assign- 
ing it such a position is found in the fact, that the acclamations of 
the people and the sound of the trumpets, which so alarmed Adoni- 
jah and his fellow-rebels, could be so much better heard from this 
place than from the spot usually assigned as the scene of the royal 
unction. The objection that so seriously militates against the site 
generally selected as the scene of coronation, as to its relative 
height compared with that of the palace, is altogether without appli- 
cation on this hypothesis : on the contrary, its depressed situation 
is highly confirmatory of its position — so much lower than the palace 
on Zion, being in exact accordance with the sacred narrative. The 
ground at the traditionary " Upper Gihon," where this transaction 
is generally supposed to have occurred, being as elevated as the 
highest part of Zion, they could not with any propriety be said to 
"go down" from the citadel where the palace was situated. But 
such a theory could never have originated except upon the erroneous 
presumption that the royal palace was at this time situated on the 
summit of Zion, by the present Jaffa Gate. Josephus mentions 
(Ant. vii. xiv : 5) that the inauguration occurred at the fountain ; 
while the sacred narrative and the circumstances of the case seem 
to locate it at the lower pool. But this apparent contradiction is 
at once reconciled on recollecting that he also calls the Pool of 
Siloam, which he says " hath sweet water in it, and that in great 
plenty also," by the same appellation. There may have been two 
fountains (for aught contained in the Scriptures) — an upper and a 
lower — but the probability is that there was only one, strictly speak- 
ing, situated high up in the valley, whose waters were brought by a 
causeway (in which was the "conduit"), and emptied into a pool 
near the city wall ; and being, as a matter of course, a place of 
general resort, it was here that the inaugurating ceremonies were 
performed. As a general rule, there is no fountain in Palestine 
20 



306 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Waters of Gihon. 

without a large receptacle for its waters ; and where these reservoirs 
are, there is the gathering of the people. And that this was equally 
the case in those remote ages of the world is perfectly obvious from 
such remains of antiquity now visible, and from incidental allusions 
of the Scriptures — one of which will properly introduce the next 
reference to the water resources of Jerusalem; i. e. Isaiah vii. 3; 
where the prophet goes out to meet King Ahaz " at the end of the con- 
duit of the upper pool in the highway (or causeway) of the Fullers' 
field." As the upper pool here indicated seems to be mentioned in 
contradistinction from a lower one, there were perhaps two pools in 
the Fullers' Field. The prophet is sent to " the end of the conduit 
of the upper pool;" but the idea conveyed by "the end of the 
conduit" is not very definite. The end thus designated was evidently 
not inside the city, but some distance off, inasmuch as Isaiah went 
forth to it. Perhaps it was a building to which water was subter- 
raneously conveyed from the upper pool at the fountain, and there 
distributed by hydrants into baths and other small receptacles — the 
surplus and waste water merely running off to the lower pool, which 
was probably situated immediately by the side of the wall as a 
defensive measure. This aqueduct probably ran along upon or 
beside the highway or causeway, which was permitted to remain 
after the concealment of the water. At all events, there must have 
been some kind of landmark by which the former site of the aque- 
duct could be known to those acquainted with the spot, even after 
the water had been concealed far beneath the surface of the earth. 
For when Rabshakeh held that memorable parley with the Jews, 
<< he stood by the conduit of the upper pool which is in the highway 
of the Fullers' field." (2 Kings xviii. 17 ; Isaiah xxxvi. 2.) It is 
evident that w T hile these circumstances are all entirely applicable on 
the north of the city, some of them are totally inapplicable on the 
west side. But, conceding the proper location of the Fullers' Field, 
their occurrence within the limits of this field necessarily locates 
them in the broad shallow valley on the north of the city. 

The next allusion that the Scriptures make to the waters of Jeru- 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



307 



"The brook that flowed through the land." 

salem is a very comprehensive one. (2 Chr. xxxii. 2-4.) We here 
learn that, "when Hezekiah saw that Sennacherib was come (to La- 
chish), and that he was purposed to fight against Jerusalem, he took 
counsel with his princes and his mighty men to stop the waters of 
the fountains which were without the city ; and they did help him. 
So there were gathered much people together, who stopped all the 
fountains, and the brook that ran through the midst of the land, 
saying, Why should the king of Assyria come, and find much water?" 
Where these various fountains were, we have now no positive means 
of ascertaining ; though En-rogel and the spring now called the 
Virgin's Fount may well be numbered amongst them. Josephus 
mentions the existence of various fountains without the city, but 
does not locate or even name any of them in this connexion but 
Siloam. (W. v. ix : 4.) "The brook," however, is located with 
sufficient precision to enable us to trace it very definitely. We are 
told that it "ran through the midst of the land." Now a stream 
running through either the Kedron or Hinnom Valley could in no 
proper sense be said to run through the midst of the land ; but one 
flowing through the true Gihon Valley, and separating Akra and 
Zion from Bezetha, Moriah, and Ophel, as a stream once doubtless 
did, could with peculiar propriety be said to " run through the 
midst of the (holy) land" on which the (Holy) City was built. And 
that this is the correct meaning of the phrase is not only apparent 
from the force of circumstances, but is positively so declared in the 
Septuagint, where, moreover, it is also called a river ;* which at 
least implies a much larger stream than the Kedron, and comports 
well with the marginal reading, where it is said to " overflow through 
the midst of the land." Previous to the interference of man, there 
was, no doubt, a very copious stream that gushed forth somewhere 
in the upper portion of that shallow, basin-like concavity north of 
Damascus Gate — which is unquestionably the upper extremity of 
the Gihon Valley — and pursuing its meandering course through this 



* Greek, P o tamos ; literally, river flowing through the city. 

I 



308 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Gihon water conducted to the west of the City of David. 

valley, entered the Tyropoeon at its great southern curve, down 
which it flowed into the Valley of Kedron. 

If we are to understand that the flow of these fountains was 
entirely arrested, they were doubtless reopened on the retreat of 
the invading army. But we learn from the 30th verse that one of 
these fountains never visibly flowed again on the exterior of the 
city, having been permanently conducted into the city through a 
secret subterranean channel ; for, " This same Hezekiah also stopped 
the upper watercourse of Gihon, and brought it straight down to 
the west side of the city of David." 

Now, had the so-called « Upper Pool of Gihon" been the "upper 
watercourse or out-flow of Gihon" (of Scripture), as is generally 
alleged (though there is not the slightest intimation of such a thing, 
either in the Bible, the works of Josephus, or any other reliable 
authority), there would be no propriety in mentioning that its waters 
were brought down "to the west side of the city of David;" for 
they were already on that side. But if the fountain thus sealed 
was situated on the north side, then it would have been a fact suffi- 
ciently notable to deserve a special notice. But that the waters 
stored up in that pool were designed for quite another purpose is 
most obvious ; for to this day they are conducted— not through a 
deep rock-cut channel, as Hezekiah's no doubt was — but most of the 
way by a trifling foot-wide ditch on the surface of the ground, to a 
reservoir on Akra near the Jaffa Gate, traditionally called Heze- 
kiah's Pool, but which most certainly is the Amygdalon Pool of 
Josephus. If by "the city of David" is here meant the whole 
city of Jerusalem, and the water was conducted literally to the 
west side of Jerusalem, the enterprise was very difficult of execu- 
tion, and by no means as useful as it would have been if located 
more centrally. It is observable, too, that in this immediate con- 
nexion this term is restricted to the lower portion of Zion.* 

But besides this fact, and the equally significant one that such an 



* 5th verse, 



The preposition "in" is not in the original. 



JERUSALEM — 



AS IT WAS. 



309 



The City of David watered by Gihon. 

enterprise would possess greater availableness as well as facility of 
execution — no small considerations under such circumstances — there 
is another fact materially favoring the idea that, instead of the whole 
city being intended, only the lower portion of Zion or the original 
" City of David" is meant. In exploring the subterranean channel 
conveying the water from Virgin's Fount to Siloam, I discovered a 
similar channel entering from the north, a few yards from its com- 
mencement ; and, on tracing it up near the Mugrabin Gate, where 
it became so choked with rubbish that it could be traversed no further, 
I there found it to turn to the west, in the direction of the south 
end of the cleft or saddle of Zion : and, if this channel was not 
constructed for the purpose of conveying to Siloam the surplus 
waters of Hezekiah's aqueduct, then I am unable to suggest any 
purpose to which it could have been applied. But why it was not 
brought down on the Zion side, who can divine ? Was it because 
Zion was already well watered in its lower portion by the " Great 
Pool" — the Lower Pool of Gihon, according to the terminology of 
tradition ? Perhaps so. Williams renders it thus : — " He stopped 
the upper outflow of the waters of Gihon, and led them down west- 
ward to the city of David." An accomplished Hebrew scholar, a 
resident of Jerusalem, himself a Jew — the son of a Rabbi* — thus 
translates this passage : — " This same Hezekiah stopped the mouths 
of the w T aters of the upper Gihon, and levelled them down westward 
to the city of David ;" or, in other words, he turned the stream into 
a more westward direction. In referring to this transaction, the 
writer of the book of Maccabees thus describes it (xlviii. 17) : — 
" Hezekiah strengthened his city, and brought in water into the 
midst of it ; he dug with iron into the rock, and built fountains 
for the waters." 

But, although the above suggestions have been submitted, yet, 
supposing the true Fountain of Gihon situated in the present basin 
across the intervening Hill of Gareb, just opposite the traditionary 



* M. J. Diness; now a Christian, and the dragoman of the American Christian Mission. 



310 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Gihon. Pool beneath the Mechemey. 

one, there is not the slightest difficulty in the exact fulfilment of 
every indication of the passage most literally construed. If we 
regard as parallel to this the 20th verse of the 20th chapter of 2 
Kings, then it would appear that he not only brought the water into 
the city, but also made a pool for it : — " He made a pool and a con- 
duit, and brought water into the city." But whether the pool was 
inside or without, we are not positively informed. 

In reproving the Jews for confiding more in human means than 
Divine aid, Isaiah comments upon the defensive measures adopted 
by Hezekiah and his princes, when threatened by Sennacherib, in 
the following terms : — " Ye have seen also the breaches of the city 
of David, that they are many ; and ye gathered together the waters 
of the lower pool. And ye have numbered the houses of Jerusalem ; 
and the houses ye have broken down to fortify the wall. Ye made 
also a ditch between the two walls for the water of the old pool, but 
ye have not looked," &c, &c. (Isaiah xxii. 9-11.) The "ditch" 
and the " lower pool" here alluded to are, therefore, evidently 
trenches for military defence ; and, of course, the pool commonly 
ascribed to Hezekiah — being obviously designed for no such pur- 
pose — cannot be either of them. In exploring the Temple area 
and its immediate vicinity, I discovered a large pool beneath the 
Mechemeh and Temple street, extending eighty-four feet alongside 
the Temple wall, which is here constructed of large Jewish rocks 
like those at the Wailing-Place, is ten feet deep, and still partially 
coated with cement. But its entire extent from east to west could 
not be ascertained — a wall having been built across it at a distance 
of forty-two feet from the Temple wall, for the purpose of support- 
ing the buildings above. Can this be the " ditch between the two 
walls for the water of the old pool" — or the trench built by Heze- 
kiah between "the First" and "Second Walls" of Josephus, as a 
defence to the First Wall passing from Zion to the Temple, and 
which was supplied with water by a branch of Hezekiah's aqueduct? 
Or are we to recognise the empty pool below Siloam as " the ditch?" 
It is not so easy a matter to locate the "lower pool" satisfactorily; 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



311 



Fountain and Pool of Siloam. 

unless, indeed, the Lower Pool of Siloam (the depressed figyard in 
the mouth of the Tyropoeon), be intended by it — the waters from 
various sources being here "gathered together," in the mouth of 
the Tyropoeon, just where the nature of the locality would require 
such a defence. But in this event, the lower pool and the ditch 
between the two walls would be regarded synonymously. 

The foregoing are all the references to the waters of Jerusalem 
previous to its destruction by the Chaldees, with the exception of 
the allusion to Siloam, contained in Isaiah's reproof of the Jews 
(viii. 6), which will now come under review in considering the 
water resources of Jerusalem subsequent to its restoration. 

Siloam, Siloah — Sent — the Pool and Fountain. — The Fountain 
of Siloam is alluded to in : the 8th of Isaiah, the 14th verse of 
the 2d chapter of Nehemiah, and the 15th of the 3d. The fountain, 
though a real one to all appearance (as it was called), was evidently 
the mere outflow of the water brought from the Virgin's Fount by 
the rock-cut canal through Mount Ophel, and is by no means an 
independent fountain. The present Pool of Siloam is undoubtedly 
the representative of the ancient fountain, so called both by Nehe- 
miah and Josephus, but probably much reduced in size. It is fre- 
quently referred to, and is located with great precision by Josephus. 
And the etymology of the term conclusively identifies it — Sent. 
The water poured out at the Feast of Tabernacles was drawn from 
the Fountain of Siloam, as the Rabbins declare : — " Thence, also, 
they draw the water that was to be mingled with the ashes of the 
red heifer." This water of separation then was very far from being 
clean water, in the sense sometimes understood. « The priests, 
eating more liberally of the holy things, drank the waters of Siloam 
for digestion sake." This, beyond all question, is the pool in which 
the " blind man washed and received sight" at the command of the 
Messiah; who, having anointed his eyes with « clay and spittle," 
" said unto him, Go, wash in the pool of Siloam (which is, by inter- 
pretation, Sent)." (John ix. 7, 11.) 

No reader of the Bible can gaze upon this placid sheet without 



312 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Siloam — Shiloah — Shelach. 

being reminded of Isaiah's remark about " the waters of Shiloah, 
that go softly." Their present taste, however, is anything but 
pleasant, and is rather indescribable. But they were probably nearly 
tasteless — or, as Josephus pronounces them, sweet — in former ages 
when they flowed copiously. 

Shiloah — Shelach — Shear-skin Pool. — It is generally supposed, 
but erroneously it would seem, that the Pool of Shiloah mentioned 
Nehemiah iii. 15 is identical with this. In the Septuagint, it is 
rendered "pool of skins by the kings wool" instead of "pool of 
Shiloah by the king's garden." But it is quite probable that, in 
correcting one error, the Greek translators have fallen into another ; 
as suggested by Dr. Lightfoot in the following remarks (Chorogra- 
phic Inquiry, &c, vol. 2, sec. 2) : — " We have the mention of it 
also Nehemiah iii. 15 — the pool of Siloam by the king's garden- 
where we may observe that it is here written S h e 1 a h ; different 
from Shiloah (Isaiah viii. 6) by a difference hardly visible in Bibles 
not pointed — indeed sometimes overlookt by myself, and so, as is evi- 
dent, by others. For Shelah is rendered in the same sound with 
Shiloah. * * * The Greek interpreters did, indeed, observe the 
difference, and thus render the words : — < the pool of skins by the 
king's wool.' Nor doth the Italian overlook it, for that renders it 
thus : — la piscina di Selac presse al orto del lie — the fish pond of 
Selac, hard by the garden of the kings.' * * * It is observable 
in the Greek version, that, whereas they render the word by 6 the 
king's wool or hair,' they may seem to have read a fleece of wool, 
for a garden" The uppermost pool would appear to be the true 
Siloah or Siloam Pool (though called a fountain) ; and the lower- 
most one, adjoining the king's gardens, Shelach, or the pool of 
skins. 

Ditch between the two Walls — Trench — Mikvah — Reser- 
voir. — The depressed garden occupying all the gorge between the 
promontories of Zion and Ophel, except spaces barely broad enough 
for a road on each side, is obviously the site of an ancient pool, 
probably that of the "lower pool" of Isaiah — where the expression 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



313 



Mikvah — Interuiural Trench. Pool that was made. 

" gathered together" would be more significant than elsewhere. It 
was about one hundred and thirty feet long and about the same in 
breadth, but evidently somewhat curved at the northern end, leaving 
an interval of only a few paces between it and the Pool of Siloam. 
That a large pool existed here till a comparatively late period, is 
evident from the accounts of pilgrim tourists ; but this will be con- 
sidered when treating of the waters of Jerusalem after its restora- 
tion by Hadrian. . It would seem not improbably to be identical with 
the Lower Pool. (Isaiah xxii. 11.) The precise meaning of Mik- 
vah is " a place where waters flow together" — a term exactly indica- 
tive of the character of this lowest of all the pools of Jerusalem, 
where all the waters of the city literally flowed together. 

Lower Pool (Isaiah xxii. 9). — Was there any such pool actually 
made by Hezekiah ? or did he merely destroy the Pools of Gihon, 
and collect their waters (the water formerly in the " old pool") into 
the Ditch (or Reservoir) below Siloam — the Pool of Skins? "Ye 
have seen the breaches of the city of David, that they are many : 
and ye gathered together the waters of the lower pool." This is 
the only reference made to this reservoir in the Scriptures ; and 
Josephus makes no mention of it whatever. It would seem to have 
been a kind of defensive moat or trench ; and, if so, the " Lower 
Pool of Gihon," which has generally been regarded as identical 
with it, can by no means be so considered. This being the lowest 
and most defenceless place about the city, there is no spot where 
we could more reasonably expect to find the " Lower Pool" than just 
here. 

The Pool that was made. — This pool was situated somewhere 
between the House of the Mighty and the Stairs of the City of 
David — probably opposite the Tombs of the Kings of Judah, and 
not far from them, on the eastern slope of Zion ; or else in the 
Tyropceon Valley : but there are no appreciable remains of it at 
the present day, neither could any be expected in such a place ; 
for, if left in a perfect state of preservation, a single age might 



314 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



" Old Pool." En-Rogel. 

suffice not only to fill it up with debris, but inhume it far below the 
surface of the earth. 

The Old Pool (Isaiah xxii. 11). — The pool here mentioned may 
either be " the pool that was made," or the old Pool of Gihon north 
of the city; for the "ditch or trench between the two walls" must 
necessarily have been the ultimate receptacle for the contents of 
both of these pools. 

En-Rogel — Fullers' Eye. — The earliest mention of En-rogel 
occurs in the book of Joshua, where it is twice mentioned (xv. 7, 
and xviii. 16) as a landmark of division between Judah and Benja- 
min. In the Septuagint it is called fountain in each of these 
places, as it is also by Josephus ; and in 2 Sam. xvii. 17, where it is 
next mentioned as the lurking-place of Zadoc and Abiathar, until 
they could receive tidings of the state of matters in Jerusalem, in 
order to bear them to David while fleeing from Absalom. The next 
and only other mention of En-rogel is in connexion with the rebel- 
lion of King David's other rebel son. For it was doubtless just 
here, upon some one or other of the large rocks still remaining be- 
tween the Mount of Offence and Hill of Evil Council, that the 
evil-counselled « Adonijah slew sheep and oxen and fat cattle, by the 
stone of Zaheleth, which is by En-rogel," and called his accomplices 
to eat. But alas ! when the state of matters in the city became 
known, " all the guests of Adonijah were afraid, and made an end 
of eating, and rose up and went every man his own way ; and 
Adonijah feared because of Solomon, and arose and went and caught 
hold of — the horns of the altar — instead of the sceptre ! It is, 
without doubt, the present Bir Ayub — situated at the junction of 
the three valleys, Hinnom, Kedron, and En-Nair. Some writers 
however entertain the opinion that, instead of being an independent 
well of water, this shaft merely affords us a peep at the subterranean 
Kedron passing through it. But that the present Bir Ayub or Yuab is 
this same ancient fountain, no reasonable doubt need be entertained. 
It probably continued to flow perennially (when unsealed) until the 
utter desolation of Judea, and the consequent cessation of the lat- 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 315 
Motza. Dragon's Well. Pilate's Aqueduct. 

ter rain ; after which time it became necessary to deepen it from 
time to time. 

Motza — Springhead. — The Rabbins inform us that the place 
where "willows of the watercourses" were grown for keeping the 
Feast of Tabernacles, was called Motza : and it no doubt owed its 
name to one or more springs for watering the willows of the brook. 
This term is applied to the immense "fountain and depth" near 
Jericho, whose waters were healed by Elisha — translated very pro- 
perly, " spring of waters." As applied to Gihon, it is rendered 
"watercourse." (2 Chr. xxxii. 30.) Can the present ephemeral 
fountain a few hundred yards below En-rogel, called « Ain ed-Dur- 
rage," be the representative of Motza? 

The Dragon's Well — Ain Tannim — The Spring of Foun- 
tains (Neh. ii. 8) — Was evidently situated somewhere in the neigh- 
borhood of the Valley Gate, below the present Jaffa Gate. The 
appellation of Dragon may have been given it on account of some 
fanciful figure sculptured on the trough, or because it was thought 
to be a fitting abode for that fabulous creature ; or because lizards, 
which here exist in such variety of sizes and shapes, resorted in 
great numbers to its recesses and crevices. The Septuagint version 
calls it "Fountain of Figs," and leads us to infer that it made its 
way out from a large mouth or fissure in the rocky cliff of the hill, 
just across the Valley of Hinnom, and was shaded by a clump of 
fig-trees. It is not at all improbable that in the lapse of two cen- 
turies between Nehemiah and the days of Ptolemy Philadelphus, 
its name may have been thus changed; and, if so, the Seventy 
would of course feel justified in substituting the new name instead 
of the old, in order that their description might be intelligible. And 
this is by no means a solitary instance of such alterations in that 
invaluable translation. There is every reason to believe that it was 
a fountain ; and not a mere well, in our acceptation of the term. 
In confirmation of this view, Jerome declares that, so late as his 
day, this valley was well supplied with fountains and waters. 

Aqueduct oe Pontius Pilate.— Josephus informs us, in " The 



316 



CITY OF THE GKEAT KING. 



. Aqueduct of Pilate. Etham stone aqueduct. 

Wars of the Jews" (ii. ix : 4), that Pontius Pilate ''expended that 
sacred treasure called corhan upon aqueducts, whereby he brought 
water from a distance of four hundred furlongs" — a distance of 
fifty miles ; but, in the " Antiquities," he tells us (xviii. iii : 1) that, 
in bringing "this current of water to Jerusalem," he derived the 
origin of the stream from the distance of two hundred furlongs," or 
about twenty-five miles. In the last instance, he doubtless specifies 
the distance of the source ; and in the former the length of the 
aqueduct, occasioned by the meandering unavoidable in such a hilly 
country. But that it must have been a work of considerable mag- 
nitude, and at least as long as he represents it, is evident from the 
necessity of expending the funds of the sacred treasury for its con- 
struction. Solomon's Pools being less than one-third of the shortest 
distance mentioned by Josephus, the idea generally entertained — 
that Pilate's Aqueduct was supplied by these reservoirs — which would 
otherwise be reasonable enough, is entirely precluded. There are 
more than half a dozen springs at Neby Samwil, which, though 
sufficiently elevated and copious and still nearer, are of course 
excluded by the same consideration. Neither would the copious 
fountains at Hebron be distant enough, even if sufficiently elevated : 
nor is there any place whatever, south, east, or west of Jerusalem, 
of the requisite distance, from which the supply could be brought. 
It results therefore, as a matter of necessity, that it was situated 
somewhere on the mountain ridge running north from Jerusalem — 
of which, however, no vestige is now known to exist. 

Stone Aqueduct. — The waters immediately round about the sa- 
cred precincts must be embraced in the account of Aristeas, as well 
as those within the sacred precincts ; — for the entire area of the 
Temple at that time was only about four stadia. Nor must it neces- 
sarily be understood that the extent of water " to the circumference 
of five stadia about the Temple" was continuous — for the reverse 
is plainly implied by the mention of " connecting pipes" — and, thus 
interpreted, the account is perhaps chargeable with no exaggeration 
whatever. » The frequent hidden apertures above," if not the open- 



JERUSALEM — A3 IT WAS. 317 



Stone aqueduct between Etham and Jerusalem. 




"WATERING-PLACE" IN THE LIKE OF STONE AQUEDUCT BETWEEN SOLOMON'S POOLS AND 
JERUSALEM — THE TRADITIONAL MOUTH OF THE CAVE OF ST. MARY. 

ings now remaining, are at least represented by them : and through 
similar openings water was probably drawn up to a higher level 
and stored away (as we know from the Bible and Talmud it was in 
the brazen laver and other places) ; from which of course it would 
gush forth with great violence on opening the communication w to 
wash off the blood of the numerous victims." And if Jerusalem 
and the Temple were thus well supplied with water prior to the reign 
of Herod the Great, how much more copiously after the accession 
of that great fountain-builder, aqueduct-maker, and rebuilder of the 
Temple, to the throne of Israel ! 

The Talmud cites Jewish authority for relating that " between 
Hebron and Jerusalem is the Fountain of Etham, from whence the 
waters are conveyed by pipes into the great pool at Jerusalem." 

And it is certainly probable in the highest degree that Solomon 
himself is the author of these water-works between Jerusalem and 
Etham which Josephus informs us (Ant. viii. vii : 3), was " a certain 
place, about fifty furlongs distant from Jerusalem, which is called 
Etham ; very pleasant it is in fine gardens, and abounding in rivu- 
lets of water." The king that was preacher in Jerusalem thus writes 
of them (Ecc. ii. 6) : "I made me pools of water, to water therewith the 
wood that bringeth forth trees." Certainly these immense reservoirs 
could never have been constructed merely for irrigating the gardens 



318 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Herod's Paradise irrigated by the waters of Etham. 

and plantations at Etham : the surplus water was doubtless brought 
then, as it is now to the Holy City, by pipes. The allusion most pro- 
bably was to the King's Pools, or as Josephus expressly calls it, " Solo- 
mon's Pools" in the Kedron, which being built first, and the name 
thus appropriated, would naturally retain the distinctive appellation. 
Josephus relates (Ant. xv. ix : 4), that Herodion, sixty stadia from Jeru- 
salem, was « well worth seeing both on other accounts, and also on 
account of the water which is brought thither from a great way off, 
and at vast expenses ; for the place itself is destitute of water." Now 
although it has been positively denied that this water could be brought 
from Solomon's Pools (Etham), inasmuch as the pools are lower than 
the city (as they allege) ; yet having proved by the theodolite that 
the reverse is the case, I commenced search for the remains of an 
aqueduct between the two places, and at last found numerous remains 
of a very substantial aqueduct between the large pool at the base 
of the citadel hill, and a copious fountain at Artos considerably 
lower than the "pools," but in the same valley. It is, therefore, 
by no means a far-fetched suggestion, that even had the rivulets 
of Etham not previously been conducted to Jerusalem, Herod would 
have brought them there, else why not conduct them as well as the 
lower fountain to Herodion ? 

The examination and reflection I have bestowed upon the subject 
lead me irresistibly to the conclusion that he found an inferior kind 
of pottery conduit there that poured its surplus waters into the 
« Great Pool" of the Jewish writers, which is no other than the tra- 
ditional " Lower Pool of Gihon," the largest at Jerusalem, the " Lacus 
Germanicus" of the Crusaders, around which the present aqueduct 
courses, still giving off a branch to it ; but instead of repairing it, 
he had a new and greatly superior one constructed by Roman engi- 
neers, who of course were better skilled in the principles of hydro- 
dynamics than the Israelites were a thousand years previously — in the 
days of Solomon — by which he was enabled to bring the water by a 
much more direct route, and to a higher level than that formerly 
attained — to the so called Upper Pool of Gihon ! And it was pro- 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



319 



Serpeut's Pool supplied from Etham — also the Palace on Zion. 

bably to commemorate this very event that he had a monument 
reared at this very spot, which is no other than the " Serpent's" Pool 
of Josephus. Travellers have long noticed a short piece of this 
admirable work, a few hundred yards east of Rachel's Tomb ; but 
no other portions of it were known to be in existence until I acci- 
dentally stumbled upon it in riding over a field near Mar Elias. 
Having thus found it in a spot favorable for observation, the theodo- 
lite soon revealed other portions of it by indicating the exact level 
and best locality for its construction. I thus discovered portions of 
it on the plain of Rephaim, not far from the " Hill of Evil Coun- 
cil ;" and, on applying the theodolite, found that it could be very 
easily carried even above the "Upper Pool of Gihon" — the Serpent's 
Pool of Josephus. The bottom of this pool being only about four 
feet below the sill of Jaffa Gate, its water could easily be con- 
ducted into the city, so as not only to fill entirely the moat of the 
Hippie Tower, but could be reservoired on the very summit of Zion 
as well as in the "deep canals and cisterns" in the palace grounds 
of King Herod : but, inasmuch as there were in them " brazen sta- 
tues through which the water ran out," they must either have been 
situated lower on the sides of Zion, or — what is more probable — the 
aqueduct coursed around the pool at a higher level (like that at the 
lower pool), sending off to it its surplus waters at Herod's Monu- 
ment, and entering the city on the surface of the ground " at the 
gate where water was brought into the Tower of Hippicus" — as the 
language of Josephus seems to import. (W. v. vii : 3.) 

The rock-cut conduit discovered by my friend Professor Johns, 
in preparing for the erection of the Anglican Church on Mount 
Zion, is not a " venerable sewer," as it has been stigmatized, but 
doubtless conveyed water to the Temple : it would seem, at all 
events, that it ran from one of these pools due north for a short dis- 
tance, and then turned due east along the brink of the Tyropceon 
towards the Temple. It was probably from this aqueduct, or in 
one of the occasional subterranean reservoirs alon^ its course, that 
Ananias the high priest was dragged from his hiding-place, and 



320 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



The stone aqueduct. Amygdalon Pool. 

slain. (W. ii. xvii : 9.) The city is indebted to Sultan Muhamed, 
it seems, for its present supply of fresh water — such as it is : The 
inscription on the fountain at the "Lower Gihon Pool" ascribes its 
entire construction to his munificence. But it is very probable that, 
having no mechanics equal to the task of erecting one out and out, 
or even repairing the large aqueduct that I ascribe to Herod the 
Great, he was content merely to repair an old one — that of 
Solomon. 

Maundrel well remarks, in speaking of certain fragments of this 
stone aqueduct which he saw in 1697, that " the whole work seems 
to be endued with such absolute firmness, as if it had been designed 
for eternity ; but the Turks have demonstrated, in this instance, 
that nothing can be so well wrought but that they are able to destroy 
it ; for of this strong aqueduct, which was carried formerly five or 
six leagues with so vast expense and labor, you see now only here 
and there a fragment remaining." 

Amygdalon Pool — Pool of Hezekiah — Birket el-batrah. — If 
Herod the Great was the author of the waterworks just ascribed to 
him, then may he also have built the pool situated midway between 
the Tower of Hippicus and the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, 
usually ascribed to King Hezekiah. That Herod built the Hippie 
Tower, now generally called the Castle of David, is almost univer- 
sally conceded : and that whoever built that tower also made the 
pool, few perhaps would doubt on comparing them — so very similar 
is their architecture. There is none of this massive rough Jewish 
architecture, however, to be seen about the Serpent's Pool ; but 
this may perhaps be satisfactorily accounted for, either on the sup- 
position that such large stones would naturally be used up in some 
of the various rebuildings of the walls in later ages, and their place 
supplied by the present smaller ones, or that Herod found the pool 
there already — having been built by some less architecture-loving 
monarch, in plain style, merely as a receptacle for the rain-water 
draining from the wide basin near the head of which it is situated. 
The pool built by Hezekiah must have been very hastily constructed, 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 321 
Trench of Antonia — the traditionary Bethesda. 

while the one that bears his name was evidently executed delibe- 
rately and in the very best style of Jewish architecture. And, 
besides this — if neither of the pools alluded to by Isaiah (xxii. 9, 
11) be this, as is highly probable — indeed almost absolutely certain, 
the one being in a low place and the other the result of certain 
waters being "gathered together" — neither of which attributes can 
be predicated of the present pool. It is clear however that, by 
whomsoever it was made, this pool is evidently the Amygdalon of 
Josephus : and that it was constructed by Herod the Great is pro- 
bable in the highest degree. 

Moat of Antonia — Pool of Bethesda — Probatica Piscina — 
Sheep Pool — Piscina Gremilares (twin pools) — Gemini Lacus-. — The 
northern enclosure of the Temple was formerly between two and 
three hundred yards farther south than it is at present : but we are 
informed by Josephus that when Herod rebuilt the Temple, he ex- 
tended it to twice its former dimensions ; and of course, from the 
very nature of the case, all the enlargement must have occurred on 
the north side. The Temple was far more vulnerable on that side 
than anywhere else ; and hence the necessity for such an extensive 
entrenchment as that which we now find on the north, upon whose 
southern edge the northern cloisters of the Haram are in part built. 
Its depth is upwards of fifty feet, even at the present day, although 
it has been the general receptacle of trash and rubbish in this part 
of the city for centuries past. Between its eastern border and the 
wall of the city there is room for a wide street leading from St. 
Stephen's Gate to a gate of the Haram. The main pool is about 
one hundred and thirty-one feet broad and three hundred and sixty- 
five in length : its length, however, is continued one hundred and 
forty-two feet farther, though the breadth of this extension is only 
forty-five feet. That they were both originally designed to hold 
water is evident from the cement with which they were lined — much 
of which still remains ; and where it has fallen off a singular con 
trivance for securing its adhesion is observable. 

We readily recognise in this piece of water the " Piscina Gemil- 
21 



322 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Struthion Pool. The Piscinary within the City. 

lares of the 4 < Jerusalem Itinerary." But that it could be the Pool 
of Bethesda or Sheep Pool (Piscina Probatica), is not only highly 
improbable, but is elsewhere abundantly disproved. Was this vast 
pool dependent upon the rains for its supply of water, or was it 
furnished by a subterranean aqueduct from the Amygdalon Pool ? 
Or may it not have been supplied by the aqueduct of Pontius 
Pilate ? Such a supposition would satisfactorily account for his 
appropriation of the "sacred treasure" to its construction. 

The Pool Struthion — Sparrow Pool. — Though Josephus so fre- 
quently alludes to the great entrenchment on the north of the Tem- 
ple, he only calls it an "abyss," in general, without specifically 
designating it : but the narrow portion is most probably what he 
calls Struthion — where Titus built one of his towers. This pool 
doubtless extended all around the exterior of the tower. Amongst 
"other conveniences" of the "inward parts," were "places for 
bathing." 

Piscina Interior — Piscina G-randis Valde. — Besides the large 
double pool entrenching Antonia on the north, there was evidently 
another still larger pool in the same quarter, a little farther north, 
which, though apparently neither mentioned in the Bible, the works 
of Josephus, or any other very ancient authority, was evidently 
there at the date of Jerusalem's destruction. The earliest known 
mention of it is by Brocardus in 1283, (unless this is one of the 
pools mentioned by Eusebius and his translator in the fourth cen- 
tury ;) then by Marinus Sanutus in 1321 ; next in the " Gesta Dei" 
(p. 573) in 1611, after which it is frequently mentioned ; but it has 
long since disappeared entirely — its rocks having probably been 
used for other purposes, and its cavity filled up by accumulation of 
rubbish. The term interior, it is true, could with no propriety have 
been distinctively applied to it during the existence of ancient Jeru- 
salem ; but was appropriate enough after the demolition of the 
ancient " Second Wall" and the erection of the present walls — dur- 
ing which period alone it is described. It is highly probable that 
it was designed to prevent the application of the battering-ram at 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



323 



Lake and Piscinary. Pool of Bethesda. 

that point, and located immediately east of the " Second Wall," 
where it joined Antonia, and was more assailable than it was farther 
north. It must have been in the immediate vicinity of the Fish 
Gate ; and, if stocked with fish, as its name would seem to imply, 
would account more satisfactorily than the suggestion generally 
received for such a designation of that gate, and especially so if the 
neighboring « twin-lake" was also a piscinary. It is rendered highly 
probable, from what Sandys says (p. 149), that it was supplied, in 
part at least, by a fountain ; and certain it is that the great water- 
loving warrior, Herod the Great, would never have constructed so 
important a pool as the Trench of Antonia, without providing it 
with an abundant supply of living water. And indeed William of 
Tyre expressly mentions that they were filled with water brought 
from a distance by aqueducts. 

" Lacus Quid am." — This piece of water is mentioned by several 
authors ; but not in such a way as to locate it more definitely than 
to produce the impression that it was a short distance above the 
entrenchments of Antonia. Can it be merely an allusion to the 
Piscina Grandis Valde ? or was it a reservoir situated higher up in 
the valley ? Most probably the latter. 

"Piscina a Francis Inventa." — This pool, it would seem, was 
situated somewhere about St. Anne's Church. Is it a mere syno- 
nym for " Lacus Quidam?" or yet another pool? 

Pool of Bethesda — House of Mercy — Effusion — Washing — 
Piscina Magna. — " Now there is at Jerusalem, by the sheep 
market, a pool, which is called in the Hebrew tongue Bethesda, 
having five porches. In these lay a great multitude of impotent 
folk, of blind, halt, withered, waiting for the moving of the water. 
For an angel went down at a certain season into the pool, and trou- 
bled the water : whosoever then first, after the troubling of the 
water, stepped in, was made whole of whatsoever disease he had. 
And a certain man was there, which had an infirmity thirty and 
eight years. When Jesus saw him lie, and knew that he had been 
now a long time in that case, he saith unto him, Wilt thou be made 



324 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



The Pool of Bethesda not identical with Siloam. 

whole ? The impotent man answered him, Sir, I have no man, 
when the water is troubled, to put me into the pool : but while 1 am 
coming, another steppeth down before me. Jesus saith unto him, 
Rise, take up thy bed, and walk. And immediately the man was 
made whole, and took up his bed, and walked : and on the same 
day was the Sabbath." • (John v. 2-9.) 

The location of this celebrated pool is a subject of no little con- 
troversy among biblical topographers and antiquaries, on account 
of the deep interest naturally attaching to the scene of an event 
so mysterious, in relation to this interesting locality. Pilgrims and 
tourists, in general, concur with the monks in the opinion that the 
present Birket Israel is the " Sheep Pool" or Bethesda of the Scrip- 
tures, and triumphantly cite, in confirmation, the two long subterra- 
neous vaulted passages proceeding from its south-west corner, as 
two of the "five porches" or stoas. But that this immense trench, 
which, we learn from Josephus, and see from its design, was con- 
structed as a defence to Antonia, can be Bethesda, is an idea too 
absurd and improbable to need formal refutation. Its depth alone is 
sufficient to refute such a notion — being upward of fifty feet at the 
present time, and was originally an "abyss," as we are informed by 
Josephus. A learned friend, after minute personal examination of 
all the premises, regards Siloam as the true Bethesda, and advocates 
its claims upon the strength of six old pillars still remaining on its 
east side. But to lay "a great multitude of impotent folk" in 
porches so small as must needs have been built between these pil- 
lars, would be as great a miracle as " the troubling of the water" or 
the healing of the " impotent man." Another learned friend also — 
than whom, too, there is no higher authority in biblical topography, 
archseology, or chorography — after critically examining all the local- 
ities and bearings of the matter, has arrived at the conclusion that 
the traditionary "Fount of the Virgin" is no other than the Pool 
of Bethesda ! But in the process of reasoning, by which he arrived 
at this conclusion, he seems, by no means, to have observed that 
caution and accuracy that generally characterize his work and ren- 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



325 



The Virgin's Fount not Bethesda. 

der his labors so reliable and valuable. The term bj which the 
Pool of Bethesda is designated in the original * is enough of itself 
to refute the idea that the Virgin's Fount could ever fulfil the indi- 
cations involved. Nothing less than a pool of sufficient dimensions 
to permit the free exercise of swimming, will at all answer its 
requirements : and surely no claim of the sort will be urged in behalf 
of the Virgin's Fount. The capacity of the grotto, too, is entirely 
inadequate to the accommodation of a multitude. But not to dwell 
upon these incapacitating circumstances, and to say nothing of the 
impracticability of arranging "five stoas" in such a locality, and 
the inaccessibility of the deep subterranean water by invalids, this 
fountain is not by the sheep-gate (or market) — a sine qua non, in its 
location. And more unsatisfactory than all, is the miracle-nulli- 
fying suggestion invoked in the substitution of the natural opera- 
tion of a syphon for the supernatural agency of an angel, or, indeed, 
messenger of any kind : for though the water below this receptacle 
may figuratively be called an angel, yet surely that above it is no 
better entitled to such an appellation than any other stream — be the 
same intermitting, remitting, or constant. 

But although there is such a diversity of opinion about the situa- 
tion of this noted pool, its position, I think, may be ascertained 
with considerable accuracy, if the locality assigned the sheep as 
their quarter be reliable — the space immediately east of the Temple. 
Gate is perhaps the word that should supply the omission or ellipse 
in the 2d verse, according to the marginal correction, instead of 
market. And the position of this gate being accurately made out, 
we cannot possibly far mislocate Bethesda. It would, of course, be 
near the gate and probably within the limits of the sheep quarter : 
and if the text of several old manuscripts can be relied on, the 
ellipsis should be supplied with pool, instead of gate or market, 
which amendment would almost necessitate such a location alongside 
this sheep pool whence water was supplied for watering and washing 
the sheep. And if, at the same time, the sheep would find shelter 



* KoXvuPr/Qpa, a pond — swim-pool. 



326 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Bethesda, a large pool on each side the Temple. 

beneath its cloisters from the scorching sun, the bleak wind, and 
pelting storm, it would pre-eminently be a " house of mercy" as well 
as a pool of " effusion" and " washing" to these victims, at the same 
time that it was a merciful place of resort for invalids. It is a fact, 
highly confirmatory of this view of its situation, that a large pool 
was known to exist just at this spot about three centuries after- 
wards. 

The Bordeaux Pilgrim, who visited Jerusalem in the year 333, 
makes mention of two great pools ("piscinae magnse"), the one on 
the right hand of the Temple, the other on the left. In exact accord- 
ance with his assertion, I have found one of them where it had here- 
tofore entirely escaped observation, and could suitable excavations 
be made, the other would no doubt be brought to light in a position 
corresponding to this, just where I have reasoned out its loca- 
tion from the data afforded by the Bible and Josephus, applied in 
accommodation to the physical requirements of that quarter of the 
city. There are no special vestiges of the pool to be seen at this 
time ; but could the immense banks of rubbish be removed from the 
place indicated, I doubt not that the veracity of the Pilgrim would be 
as fully sustained in relation to this pool as to the other. In order 
that it might the more easily have been supplied with water, we 
w T ould naturally conclude that this pool was situated on the lower 
side of the sheep quarter, within it, if the omission be supplied by 
gate, but without, if supplied by market or quarter — and in either 
event, one of its porches, stoas, or cloisters would be built (in part 
at least) upon the massive wall of the lower side : and it is probable 
that King Jotham was engaged in the erection of these very works, 
when it is said of him (2 Chr. xxvii. 3) that " on the wall of Ophel 
he built much." 

Does not the name by which the large pool within the walls, just 
north of the Antonia entrenchments, is called — Piscina Interior — 
plainly intimate the existence of another in that neighborhood 
without the walls, called Piscina Exterior — and if so, could it well 
be any other than Bethesda, as here indicated ? 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



327 



Birket es-Sultan, the Great Pool of the Rabbins. 

The Great Pool — (Loiver Pool of G-ihon — Lacus Germani) — 
Birket es-Sultan. — The Upper Pool of Gihon, so called in the 
nomenclature of tradition, is the spot where it is generally supposed 
Solomon was anointed king of Israel, although this " Lower Pool" 
would certainly quadrate rather better with the circumstances of 
the case : but it is evident, as elsewhere demonstrated, that neither 
place answers the requirements of the narrative ; and the truth is — 
abundant as pools of water seem to have been about Jerusalem from 
the earliest period of its history — neither of them was then in exist- 
ence. Besides those already existing when Solomon ascended the 
throne, he soon constructed others : — " I builded me pools of water 
to water therewith the wood that bringeth forth trees" says "the 
King that was Preacher in Jerusalem." Nehemiah and Josephus 
very definitely locate one of these pools just above the King's Gar- 
dens, evidently supplied by the brook that flowed in the valley of 
the Kedron, and perhaps by the Virgin's Fount also. Others we 
recognise at Etham. Had he merely been in quest of an eligible 
site for pleasure gardens, Neby Samwil would have possessed far 
superior advantages, being two or three miles nearer, a better site 
for gardens, possessing sufficient water, and so elevated that it com- 
manded a lovely prospect even as far as the shores of the Mediter- 
ranean. But most evident is it that horticultural irrigation is not 
the only purpose for which these grand reservoirs were made : to 
furnish the Temple with water was evidently a leading object in 
their construction — a purpose that must have been fondly cherished 
by a monarch who lavished such vast sums in the erection and 
adornment of an edifice requiring so large a supply of water in ful- 
filment of the great design for which it was built. " There is a 
river, the streams whereof shall make glad the city of God, the 
holy place of the Tabernacle of the Most High!" Nor can it be 
objected with any propriety that "had these pools really been built 
by Solomon for the purpose of furnishing the Temple with water, 
he would scarcely have failed to inform us so" in the passage cited, 
for such a mention of them would have been entirely outre and 



328 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



The Great Pool — Lacus Germanicus. 

inapposite in the enumeration of sensual pleasures that he terms 
"vanities." Now the position of the "lower pool of Gihon" is 
precisely where it ought to be upon the presumption that it was 
built to reservoir the surplus waters of Etham — a few feet lower 
than the level of the Etham aqueduct coursing around it. The 
conjecture, therefore, affords a plausible solution of the anomaly of 
its position, for it would certainly have been situated either higher 
up or lower down but for this consideration. But fortunately we 
are not left to mere conjecture, however plausible, in designating 
the uses and character of this great work. Dr. Lightfoot informs 
us in his great work on the chorography and topography of Jeru- 
salem, that the Jewish writers frequently allude to the fact, that 
"in the way betwixt Hebron and Jerusalem is the Fountain of Etham, 
from whence the waters are conveyed by pipes into the Cfreat Pool 
at Jerusalem." Now this pool is not only situated just where it 
ought to be, to subserve the purposes indicated, but it is emphatically 
the great pool of Jerusalem, having about three times the capacity 
of any other about the city. To this conclusion also, the name by 
which alone it is designated by the natives, significantly points — 
Birket es-Sultan, or King's Pool. And that this is a very ancient 
pool, and indeed one of Solomon's construction, is still further evi- 
dent from a comparison of its general design, structure, and appear- 
ance with those of Etham, acknowledged to be his on all sides — 
being made unlike all others, but identically like them, by clearing 
away the soil, erecting two cross-walls (the lower very massive, the 
upper rather slight), connecting them by side-walls, scarping the 
shelving ledges of rock on its sides, and plastering the whole over 
with water cement. 

During the existence of the Frank kingdom it seems to have gone 
under the appellation of " Lacus Germanicus," but why thus styled 
is not known : and by some it is believed — absurdly enough 
surely — to be the "Pool of Bathsheba." But that it can be no 
other than what is here indicated is certainly obvious enough to 
satisfy the most sceptical. 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



329 



Waters of Etham. Serpent's Pool. 

When full, this pool presented an area of nearly four acres of 
wa ter — being by far the largest about the city. Dimensions 260 
feet by 600. 

"Waters of Etham. — The above Rabbinical account of the 
waters of Etham is abundantly confirmed by Josephus, who testi- 
fies that " there was a certain place about fifty furlongs distant from 
Jerusalem, which is called Etham ; very pleasant it is in fine gardens, 
and abounding in rivulets of water ; thither did Solomon use to go 
out in the morning sitting on high." 

« Serpent's Pool" — "Upper Pool op Gihon" — Birket Mamilla 
or Babilla — " Lacus PatriarcM. " — The observant traveller, in pass- 
ing between Jerusalem and Bethlehem, can scarcely fail to notice, 
close by the celebrated Pea-Patch,* and immediately on the side of 
the gullied road, opposite Rachel's Tomb, and within a hundred 
yards of the present pottery aqueduct at that point, a few large, 
well squared, and nicely perforated stones, protruding out of the 
low ridge of earth. They belong to a well executed aqueduct that, 
in some places, penetrates deeply beneath the ground, in others lies 
on its surface, and occasionally ascends perpendicularly several 
yards above the ground, terminating in an open gutter on the top 
of a thick wall, thus surmounting a gentle slope, then continuing in 
a solid rock-cut channel, at the end of which it is again received 
into the regular aqueduct formed by the adjunction of the large 
cubical blocks. These joints are perforated with a bore six or eight 
inches in diameter, and are quite exact cubes with the exception of 
the conical projection from one side through which the bore extends, 
that fits into the conical opening of the next succeeding block, simi- 
larly fashioned : and so tenacious is the cement by which they are 
united, that it is almost impossible to disunite them without fracture. 



* "In which are picked up a little sort of petrified them by a miracle, in punishment 

small round stones, exactly resembling peas; to a surly rustic, who denied her the charity 

concerning which they have a tradition here, of a handful of them to relieve her hunger."— 

that they were once truly what they now Maundrel. 
seem to be ; but that the Blessed Virgin 



330 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Serpents' Pool. Water brought from Etham by Herod. 

Starting at the above place, where the aqueduct is covered by a low 
ridge of rock-covered earth, running parallel to the road for some 
distance, I succeeded in discovering various portions by means of 
the theodolite — enough to show conclusively that it was designed to 
convey water from Solomon's Pools to Jerusalem, on a higher level 
than that of the present far inferior conduit of pottery. At a point 
nearly midway between Mar Elias, and Jebel Tantur or Elkhamis, 
close beside the Beit Jala road, is a large half-buried piece of 
cylindric-shaped reddish marble immediately adjoining this aque- 
duct, situated just on the great watershed of Palestine between 
the Mediterranean and Dead Seas. The Arabs venerate it very 
much as the door occluding the entrance of the " Cave of Sitte 
Myriam," and rarely pass it without devoutly piling up a small 
pyramid of stones near it. But it is evidently nothing more than 
a watering-place of this aqueduct — a large marble basin, dislocated 
and broken. Its present dimensions are 7 feet in length, 5 J in 
height, and 6 J broad : internal depth 2 J- feet.* Application of the 
level to the northernmost portion of the aqueduct now to be seen 
on the plain of Rephaim, shows that the water could be very easily 
conducted to the summit of Mount Zion, and in so doing would pass 
just around the "Upper Pool of Gihon," as the pottery aqueduct 
does around the lower one. Now, if the wall of circumvallation has 
been properly located — of which there can be no reasonable 
doubt — it here encompassed Herod's Monument, just at a point from 
which the camp of the Assyrians was situated a short distance east. 
(W. v. xiii : 2.) And this monument we are told (W. v. iii : 2), 
« adjoined to the Serpents' Pool." Now it so happens that at this 
identical spot we find the so called "Upper Pool of Gihon" — a 
large reservoir of water, which if it be not the Serpents' Pool of 
Josephus, then where are we to look for that pool ? The result of 
my investigations is the irresistible conviction that this piece of 
water is no other than the Serpents' Pool. And if we could even 
bring ourselves to the conclusion that Herod the Great in his reedi- 



* See cut, page 317. 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



331 



The Lavatory. Waters of the royal palace. 

fication, enlargement, and adornment of the Temple, would fail to 
furnish what it most of all needed — a good supply of fresh water — • 
it is yet certain that he introduced an ample supply upon the premises 
of his own magnificent palace and pleasure grounds on Mount Zion. 
This supply he could derive from no other place so well as from 
Etham : it is therefore a most reasonable supposition that he did 
thus introduce those waters ; and as it was a very considerable 
enterprise for that age, we may easily account for the erection of 
the monumental structure in actual conjunction with the pool — 
evincing thus vauntingly the same boastful spirit that animated the 
emperor — when, on the completion of the Church of St. Sophia, 
he exclaimed, " Solomon, I have surpassed thee !" For account 
of the waters of Herod's pleasure grounds, see Jos. W. v. iv : 4. 

"The city, lakes and living springs contains, 
And cisterns to receive the falling rains ; 
But bare of herbage is the country round, 
Nor springs nor streams refresh the barren ground. 
No tender flower exalts its cheerful head: 
No stately trees at noon their shelter spread." — Tasso. 

" The Lavatory" on Mount Olivet. — It would appear from the 
Rabbins that this was a bathing establishment on the western slope 
of Olivet ; but we have no definite specifications as to its size or 
even location, except that it was somewhere opposite the Temple. 
It was probably located not far from the eastern extremity of the 
Red Heifer Bridge, in order that the bather, being " made every 
whit clean" by his ablution in the Lavatory, might be the more 
effectually secured against any possible defilement before reaching 
the Temple. 

The Deep Canals and Cisterns — pertaining to the palace 
grounds of Herod the Great, were upon the very summit of the 
Holy Hill — the north-west corner. The language in which Josephus 
describes them in giving an account of that royal palace induces 
the belief that they were very extensive. These — unlike most of 
the water in the city — were evidently not stagnant, but living 



332 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Waters on the pleasure grounds of Herod's Palace. 

waters, supplied by aqueducts, in all probability, brought from 
Etham. It is evident at least that the " brazen statues," through 
which the water poured into these canals and cisterns, could not 
be fed by any source now supplying water to the city. The aque- 
duct brought to light by Professor Johns would seem to have con- 
ducted a portion of the surplus water to the Temple or lower palace, 
after it had irrigated and adorned those royal pleasure grounds ; 
and the remainder, after operating in a jet-d'eau in the western 
part of the palace grounds, which probably reached a considerable 
way down the hill, was distributed through that part of the city ; 
and the surplus sent to the Virgin's Fount via the subterranean 
passage I explored in part. 

The foregoing account of the palaces, towers, fortresses, walls, 
waterworks, and other structures and resources of Jerusalem, pro- 
claims it to have been one of the most magnificent cities on earth : 
and especially when it is remembered that they are only such as 
have been incidentally mentioned — constituting a portion only, and 
perhaps but a small portion, of its buildings and resources. And 
to this effect also abundantly testify her silent but not inexpressive 
tombs. 

Such, then, was the City of the Great King — the perfection of 
beauty — the joy of the whole earth ! But, as Josephus well remarks 
(Wars, vi. x: 6), "Yet hath not its great antiquity, nor its vast 
riches, nor the diffusion of its nation over all the habitable earth, 
nor the greatness of the veneration paid to it on a religious account, 
been sufficient to preserve it from being destroyed." And alas, 
how great has been her fall ! " How doth the city sit solitary that 
was full of people ! how is she become as a widow ! She that was 
great among the nations and princess amongst the provinces, how is 
she become tributary ! ' ' But, notwithstanding her low estate and deep 
degradation — trodden under foot of the Gentiles — " the Lord shall 
yet comfort Zion, and shall yet choose Jerusalem" — yea, God will 
establish her for ever, and make her an eternal excellency. 



CHAPTER XL 



JERUSALEM FROM ITS SUBVERSION BY TITUS, TO ITS CAPTURE BY 
THE SARACENS. 

iELIA CAPITOLINA. 

«-» * The city is full of violence: wherefore I will briDg the worst of the heathen, and 
they shall possess their houses : I will also make the pomp of the strong to cease, and their 
holy places shall be defiled." (Ezek. vii. 24.) 

"Reft of thy sons, amid thy foes forlorn, 
Mourn, widowed Queen! forgotton Zion, mourn! 
Is this thy place, sad city, this thy throne, 
Where the wild desert rears its craggy stone ; 
Where suns, unblest, their angry lustre fling, 
And wayworn pilgrims seek the scanty spring ? 
Where now thy pomp which kings with envy viewed ? 
Where now thy might, which all those kings subdued ? 
No martial myriads muster in thy gate ; 
No suppliant nations in thy temple wait 
No prophet-bards, thy glittering courts among, 
Wake the full lyre and swell the tide of song : 
But lawless Force and meagre Want are there, 
And the quick-darting eye of restless Fear ; 
While cold Oblivion, 'mid thy ruins laid, 
Folds his dark wing beneath the ivy shade." 

Having thus brought under notice the condition of the ancient 
Jewish metropolis in all its various phases from its inception under 
Melchisedec down to the reign of Agrippa ; when, having attained 
the zenith of its glory and depth of its iniquity, it was subverted 
by the Romans; we will now consider such brief notices of its con- 
dition in early Christian and Medieval times, as will enable us the 



334 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Subversijn of the city by Titus — reedification under Adrian. 

better to appreciate its present condition, and also serve the purpose 
of greatly illustrating the works of the chroniclers, Crusaders, and 
modern travellers. The reader will at the same time have ample 
opportunity of forming a proper estimate of the religion of the Holy 
City for the last fifteen hundred years. It will also abundantly 
appear how cautious we ought to be in receiving the various tradi- 
tionary identifications of sacred localities. 

Jerusalem was subverted by Titus in the year of our Lord 70 ; 
and although it may not be literally true, as is sometimes asserted, 
that the Romans at this time actually ran a plough over the city 
and sowed it with salt, yet was every part of it most completely 
destroyed, except a portion of the wall and a few of the towers on 
the west. Josephus remarks in the 1st chapter and section of the 
7th book of the Wars, that " Caesar gave orders that they should 
demolish the entire city and temple, but should leave as many of 
the towers standing as were of the greatest eminency ; that is, 
Phasaelus and Hippicus and Mariamne, and so much of the wall as 
enclosed the city on the west side * * * * but as for all the rest 
of the wall, it was so thoroughly laid even with the ground by those 
that dug it up to the foundation, that there was nothing left to make 
those that came thither believe it had ever been inhabited."* And 
in this utter state of desolation it seems to have lain until Adrian 
ordered it to be rebuilt, A. D. 136, in honor of Jupiter and himseii, 
under the name of iElia Capitolina, excluding nearly all the quarter 
of Coenopolis, and about one-half of Mount Zion. The wall on 
the north no doubt occupied very nearly the site of the old Second 
Wall from the north-west corner to Bezetha Hill ; but instead of 
then running to the north-west corner of the Temple, it was con- 
tinued east a few hundred yards, and then turned at right angles 
due south to join the north-east corner. The present wall, perhaps, 
occupies very nearly the site of that then erected by the Emperor. 



* It is supposed by many that a portion haps) was also spared j but, if so, where is 
of the city (that near the western wall, per- the propriety of the above language ? 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 335 

The city heathenized. Christian churches supplant the heathen temples. 

A temple in honor of Jupiter Capitolinus we are told was built 
upon the site of the Holy House, and another to Yenus over the 
Sepulchre of the Saviour. The erections of this period, both military 
and religious, seem to have been really magnificent. 

But little is known of Jerusalem from Adrian to Constantine. 
The Jews, who had been forbidden by Adrian to come within sight 
of the Holy City under pain of death, -were permitted to visit it on 
payment of a certain tax under Constantine ; and about this time 
also, the Christians of Jerusalem, who on the investment of the 
city by Titus had fled to Pella, now returned, as is supposed, and 
re-established themselves in the Holy City. 

Very little is known of Jerusalem, until, upon the conversion of 
Constantine, A. D. 326, it ceased to be a heathen city ; and losing 
the name by which Adrian had endeavored to consign the Holy 
City to oblivion, it resumed its ancient designation. The idol tem- 
ples immediately gave place to Christian church edifices. Constan- 
tine — or rather his mother, the Empress Helena — greatly adorned 
the city and designated the sacred localities. 

Amongst the buildings erected by the pious Emperor and his 
zealous mother (who made a pilgrimage to Palestine when fourscore 
years of age), may be enumerated the Basilica of Constantine, the 
Churches of Calvary and the Resurrection, Gethsemane and the 
Ascension. 

Julian the Apostate, in order to disprove certain prophecies, per- 
mitted and even assisted the Jews to rebuild the Temple ; but globes 
of fire, as it is related by the historians of that day, issuing from 
the foundations compelled the workmen to desist. 

Justinian erected a splendid hospital or Zenodochium, and the 
magnificent Church of St. Mary, about the year 530 according to 
Procopius. 

But all Christian edifices were destroyed by the Persians and 
Jews under Chosroes II., on his capture of the city A. D. 614 ; 
though on the recovery of the city by Heraclius, and indeed before 
that event, many of these churches were rebuilt. The city was now 



336 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Jerusalem under the Persians and Saracens. 

freed from the tyranny of the disciples of Zoroaster, but was soon 
brought under a far more galling and permanent yoke — that of 
Mohammedanism. 

"Jerusalem ! Jerusalem ! thy cross thou wearest now ! 
An iron yoke is on thy neck, and blood is on thy brow; 
The golden crown — the crown of Truth — thou didst reject as dross; 
And now thy cross is on thee laid — the crescent is thy cross." 

The city was captured by Omar in 634 ; and the covenant into 
which he entered, not to destroy the property of Christians, whether 
public or private, was faithfully observed. He found the venerated 
rock es-Sakhrah (which is still to be seen beneath the so-called Mosk 
of Omar) covered with filth, placed there by the Christians in con- 
tempt of the Jews ; and piously assisting with his own hands in the 
removal of this immense heap, he erected a wooden house of prayer 
over it. The present splendid edifice, however, that bears his name, 
was erected by Abd el-Melek Ibn Marwan, at an immense cost, in 
688. The mosk built by Omar was far more in keeping with his 
primitive simplicity of character — a plain quadrangular, large but 
mean wooden structure, which in the course of half a century gave 
place to the present elegant octagonal edifice. 

The large fabric now generally called Mosk el-Aksa, is not an 
original Saracenic structure, but is unquestionably the Church of 
Mary built by Justinian, merely a little Saracenized before its con- 
secration to Islamism. 

Amongst Turks and Arabs, Jerusalem still retains the name given 
it by Omar — Beit el-Makudis or in its abbreviated form el-Kudis 
or el-Kuds — the Holy House. 



CHAPTER XII. 



"Her gold is dim; and mute her music voice ,* 
The heathen o'er her perished pomp rejoice." 

Notices of Jerusalem — From the Travels of Bishop Arculf, who 
visited the Qity near the close of the Sixth Century — Edited by 
the Venerable Bede. Ven. Bede de Sanctis Locis. 

" Arculf, the holy bishop, a native of Gaul, resided nine months 
at Jerusalem. He counted in the circuit of the walls of the Holy 
City, eighty-four towers and six gates : — the Gate of David on the 
west of Mount Zion, the Gate of the Valley of the Fuller, St. 
Steven's Gate, Benjamin Gate, the Little Gate, leading by a flight 
of steps to the Valley of Jehosaphat, and the gate called Tecuitis. 
On the spot where the Temple once stood, near the eastern wall, 
the Saracens (under Omar) erected a square house of prayer in a 
rough manner, by raising beams and planks upon some remains of 
old ruins ; this is their place of worship ; and it will hold about 
three thousand men. There were many large and handsome houses 
of stone in all parts of the city. 

" The Church of the Holy Sepulchre is very large and round, 
encompassed with three walls, with a broad space between each, and 
containing three altars of wonderful workmanship, in the middle 
wall at three different points : on the south, the north, and the west. 
It is supported by twelve stone columns of extraordinary magnitude ; 
and it has eight doors or entrances through the three opposite walls, 
four fronting the north-east, and four to the south-east. In the 
22 



338 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Account of Jerusalem by Arculf. 

middle space of the inner circle is a round grotto, cut in the solid 
rock, the interior of which is large enough to allow nine men 
to pray, standing, and the roof of which is about a foot and a 
half higher than a man of ordinary stature. The entrance is 
from the east side, and the whole of the exterior is covered with 
choice marble, to the very top of the roof, which is adorned with 
gold, and supports a large golden cross. Within, on the north 
side, is the tomb of our Lord, hewn out of the same rock, seven 
feet in length, and rising three palms above the floor. These 
measurements were taken by Arculf with his own hand. This tomb 
is broad enough to hold one man lying on his back, and has a raised 
division in the stone to separate his legs. The entrance is on the 
south side, and there are twelve lamps burning day and night, 
according to the number of the twelve apostles ; four within at the 
foot, and the other eight above, on the right hand side. Internally 
the stone of the rock remains in its original state, and still exhibits 
the marks of the workman's tools ; its color is not uniform, but 
appears to be a mixture of white and red. The stone that was laid 
at the entrance to the monument is now broken in two ; the lesser 
portion standing as a square altar before the entrance, while the 
greater forms another square altar in the east part of the same 
church, covered with linen cloths. 

"To the right of this round church (which is called the Anas- 
tasis, or Resurrection), adjoins the square church of the Virgin 
Mary, and to the east of this another large church is built, on the 
spot called in Hebrew Golgotha, from the ceiling of which hangs a 
brazen wheel with lamps, beneath which a large silver cross is fixed 
in the very place where stood the wooden cross on which the Saviour 
of the human race suffered. Under the place of our Lord's cross, 
a cave is hewn in the rock, in which sacrifice is offered on an altar 
for the souls of certain honored persons deceased, their bodies re- 
maining meanwhile in the way or street between this church and 
the round church. Adjoining the Church of Golgotha, to the east, 
13 the basilica or church erected with so much magnificence by the 



JERUSALEM 



— AS IT WAS. 



339 



Arculf 's account by Bede. 

Emperor Constantine, and called the Martyrdom, built, it is said, in 
the place where the cross of our Lord, with the other two crosses, 
were found by divine revelation, two hundred and thirty-three years 
after they had been buried. Between these two last-mentioned 
churches is the place where Abraham raised the altar* for the sacri- 
fice of his son Isaac, where there is now a small wooden table, on 
which the alms for the poor are offered. Between the Anastasis, or 
round church, and the basilica of Constantine, a certain open space 
extends to the Church of Golgotha, in which are lamps burning day 
and night. In the same space between the Martyrdom and the 
Golgotha, is a seat, in which is the cup of our Lord, concealed in a 
little shrine, which Arculf touched and kissed through a hole in the 
covering. It is made of silver, of the capacity of about a French 
quart, and has two handles, one on each side. In it also is the 
sponge which was held up to our Lord's mouth. The soldier's lance, 
with which he pierced our Lord's side, which has been broken into two 
pieces, is also kept in the portico of the Martyrdom, inserted in a 
wooden cross. Arculf saw some other relics, and he observed a 
lofty column in the holy places to the north, in the middle of the 
city, which, at mid-day at the summer solstice, casts no shadow, 
which shows that this is the centre of the earth. Arculf next 
visited the holy places in the immediate neighborhood of Jerusalem. 
In the Valley of Jehosaphat he saw the round church of St. Mary, 
divided into two stories by slabs of stone ; in the upper part arc 
four altars ; on the eastern side below there is another, and to the 
right of it an empty tomb of stone, in which the Virgin Mary is 
said to have been buried ; but who moved her body, or when this 
took place, no one can say. On entering this chamber, you see on 
the right hand side a stone inserted in the wall, on which Christ 
knelt when he prayed on the night in which he was betrayed ; and 
the marks of his knees are still seen in the stone, as if it had be^n 



* But, unfortunately for its antiquity, be- revealed a room ! and beneath that room a 
neath this place, recent excavations have tank of water !! ! — Author. 



340 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Jerusalem described by Arculf. 

as soft as wax. In the same valley, not far from the Church of 
St. Mary, is shown the tower of Jehosaphat, in which his tomh is 
seen; adjoining to which little tower, on the right, is a separate 
chamber cut out of the rock of Mount Olivet, containing two hollow 
sepulchres, one, that of the aged Simeon the Just, who held the 
child Jesus in the Temple, and prophesied of him ; the other of 
Joseph, the husband of Mary. On the side of Mount Olivet there 
is a cave, not far from the Church of St. Mary, on an eminence 
looking towards the Valley of Jehosaphat, in which are two very 
deep pits. One of these extends under the mountain to a vast depth ; 
the other is sunk straight down from the pavement of the cavern, 
and is said to be of great extent. These pits are always closed 
above. In this cavern are four stone tables ; one near the entrance 
is that of our Lord Jesus, whose seat is attached to it, and who, doubt- 
less, rested himself here while his twelve apostles sat at the other 
tables. There is a wooden door to the cave, which was often visited 
by Arculf.* After passing through the Gate of David, which is 
adjacent to Mount Zion, we come to a stone bridge, raised on arches, 
and pointing straight across the valley to the south ; half-way along 
which, a little to the west of it, is the spot where Judas Iseariot 
hanged himself; and there is still shown a large fig-tree, from the 
top of which he is said to have suspended himself, according to the 
word of the poet Juvencus. 

" Informem rapuit ficus de vertice mortem." 

" On Mount Zion, Arculf saw a square church, which included 
the site of our Lord's Supper, the place where the Holy Ghost 
descended upon the apostles, the marble column to which our Lord 
was bound when he was scourged, and the spot where the Virgin 
Mary died. Here also is shown the site of the martyrdom of St. 
Stephen. f He saw, on the south of Mount Zion, a small field 



* They appear to be nothing more than Gethsemane and Stephen's Gate ; and at 
tanks of a large size. — Author. another time was confidently located near 

■(■ It is now shown nearly midway between Damascus Gate ! ! ! — Author. 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 341 
Jerusalem described by Arculf. 

(Aceldama) covered with a heap of stones, where the bodies of 
many pilgrims are carefully buried, while others are left to rot on 
the surface. 

"Arculf states that few trees are found on Mount Olivet, except 
vines and olive-trees, but wheat and barley nourish exceedingly ; 
the nature of the soil, which is not adapted to trees, is favorable to 
grass and flowers. The height of this hill appears to be equal to 
that of Mount Zion, although it is much more extensive in length and 
breadth : the two mountains are separated by the Valley of Jehosha- 
phat. On the highest point of Mount Olivet, where our Lord 
ascended into heaven, is a large round church, having around it 
three vaulted porticoes. 

" The inner apartment is not vaulted and covered, because of the 
passage of our Lord's body ; but it has an altar on the east side, 
covered with a narrow roof. On the ground, in the midst of it, are 
to be seen the last prints in the dust, of our Lord's feet, and the 
roof appears open above where he ascended ; and although the 
earth is daily carried away by believers, yet still it remains as 
before, and retains the same impression of the feet. Near this is a 
brazen wheel, as high as a man's neck, having an entrance towards 
the west, with a great lamp hanging above it on a pulley, and 
burning night and day. In the western part of the same church 
are eight windows ; and eight lamps, hanging by cords opposite 
them, cast their light through the glass as far as Jerusalem ; which 
light, Arculf said, strikes the hearts of the beholders with a 
mixture of joy and divine fear. Every year, on the day of the 
Ascension, when mass is ended, a strong blast of wind comes down, 
and casts to the ground all who are in the church. All that night, 
lanterns are kept burning there, so that the mountain appears not 
only lighted up, but actually on fire, and all on that side of the city 
is illuminated by it. There is also a much frequented church to 
the north of Bethany, on that part of Mount Olivet where our Lord 
is said to have preached to his disciples." 



342 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Extract from Willibard, and his Editor. 

Memoranda from the Travels of Bishop Willibard. By a Nun of 
Heidenhum. A. D. 721-727. 
"Our bishop arrived here [in Jerusalem] on the Feast of St. 
Martin, and was suddenly seized with sickness, and lay sick until 
the week before the nativity of our Lord. And being a little 
recovered he rose, and went to the church called St. Zion, which is 
in the middle of Jerusalem, and, after performing his devotions, he 
went to the Porch of Solomon, where is the pool where the infirm 
wait for the motion of the water, when the angel comes to move it, 
and then he who first enters it is healed. Here our Lord said to 
the paralytic, « Rise, take up thy bed and walk.' St. Mary expired 
in the middle of Jerusalem, in the place called St. Zion ; and as the 
twelve apostles were carrying her body, the angels came and took 
her from their hands, and carried her to Paradise. Bishop Willi- 
bard next descended to the Valley of Jehoshaphat, which is close 
to the city of Jerusalem, on the east side. And in that valley is 
the church of St. Mary, which contains her sepulchre, not because 
her body rests there, but in memory of it. And having prayed 
there, he ascended Mount Olivet which is on the east side of the 
valley, and where there is now a church, where our Lord prayed 
before his passion, and said to his disciples, < Watch and pray that 
ye enter not into temptation.' And thence he came to the church 
on the mountain itself, where our Lord ascended to heaven. In 
the middle of the church is a square receptacle, beautifully sculp- 
tured in brass, on the spot of the Ascension. And there is on it a 
small lamp in a glass case, closed on every side, that the lamp may 
burn always, in rain or in fair weather ; for the church is open 
above, without a roof. And two columns stand within the church, 
against the north wall and the south wall, in memory of the two 
men who said, < Ye men of Galilee, why stand ye gazing up into 
heaven?' and the man who can creep between the wall and the 
columns, will have remission of his sins." 



It was in the beginning of the ninth century that Haroun er- 



JERUSALEM — 



A S IT WAS. 



343 



Notes by Bernard the Wise. 

Raschid bestowed upon Charlemagne the jurisdiction of the church 
of the Holy Sepulchre and its appurtenances. 

Notes, $c.,from Bernard the Wise, who visited Jerusalem, A. D. 867. 

On arriving at Jerusalem he was in the Hostel founded by the 
glorious Charles (Charlemagne), in which are received all the pil- 
grims who speak the Roman tongue, to which adjoins a church in 
honor of St. Mary, with a most noble library, founded by the same 
emperor, with twelve mansions, fields, vineyards, and a garden in 
the Valley of Jehoshaphat. In front of the hospital is a market, 
for which every one who trades there pays yearly to him who pro- 
vides it, two aurei. Within the city, besides others, there are four 
principal churches, connected with each other by walls — one to the 
east, which contains the Mount of Calvary, and the place in which 
the cross of our Lord was found, and is called the Basilica of Con- 
stantine ; another to the south ; a third to the west, in the middle 
of which is the Sepulchre of our Lord, having nine columns in its 
circuit, between which are walls made of the most excellent stones, 
of which nine columns, four are in front of the monument itself, 
which, with their walls, include the stone placed before the sepul- 
chre, which the angel rolled away, and on which he sat after our 
Lord's resurrection. I must not omit to state that on Holy Satur- 
day, which is the eve of Easter, the office is begun in the morning 
in this church, and after it is ended the " Kyrie Elyson" is chanted 
until an angel comes and lights the lamps* which hang over the 
aforesaid sepulchre ; of which light the patriarch gives their shares 
to the bishops and to the rest of the people, that each may illumi- 
nate his own house. * * * There is, moreover, in the city another 
church on Mount Zion, which is called the Church of St. Simeon, 
where our Lord washed the feet of his disciples, and in which is 
suspended our Lord's crown of thorns. St. Mary is said to have 



* The celebrated Greek fire. The angel cally calls "liquid hell-fire and distilled dam- 
is what the late Robert Hall so characteristi- nation" — alcohol ! — Author. 



344 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Notes by Bernard the Wise. 

died in this church. Near it, towards the east, is a church in 
honor of St. Steven, on the spot where he is believed to have beeD 
stoned. And indirectly to the east is a church in honor of St. 
Peter, in the place where he denied our Lord. To the north is the 
Temple of Solomon, having a synagogue of Saracens. To the south 
of it are the iron gates through which the angel of the Lord led 
Peter out of prison, and which were never opened afterwards. 
Leaving Jerusalem, we descend into the Valley of Jehoshaphat, 
which is a mile from the city(!), containing the village of Gethsemane, 
with the place of the nativity of St. Mary. In it is a round church 
of St. Mary, containing her sepulchre, on which the rain never 
falls, although there is no roof above it. There is also a church 
on the spot where our Lord was betrayed, containing the four round 
tables of his supper. In the Valley of Jehoshaphat there is also a 
church of St. Leon, in which it is said that our Lord will come at 
the Last Judgment. Thence we went to Mount Olivet, on the 
declivity of which is shown the place of our Lord's prayer to the 
Father. On the side of the same mountain is shown the place 
where the Pharisees brought to our Lord the woman taken in 
adultery, where there is a church in honor of St. John, in which 
is preserved the writing in marble which our Lord wrote on the 
ground. At the summit of the mountain, a mile(!) from the 
Valley of Jehoshaphat, is the place of our Lord's ascension, in the 
middle of which, on the spot from which he ascended, is an altar, 
open to the sky, on which mass is celebrated. * * * On Mount 
Olivet, near Bethany, is a pool in which, by our Lord's command, 
Lazarus washed himself after he had been raised from the dead. 
On the western declivity of Mount Olivet is shown the marble from 
which the Lord descended on the foal of an ass. Amongst many 
other monasteries, one mile to the south of Jerusalem is the Church 
of St. Mamilla, in which are many bodies of martyrs slain by the 
Saracens, and diligently buried there by her. * * * I will add, in 
conclusion, that we saw, in the village of Gethsemane, squared 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 345 



Chronology of the Crusades. 

marble stones of that fineness that a man might see anything he 
liked in them, as in a looking-glass. 

The following compendious " Chronology of the Crusades," (taken 
from Procter's excellent work) may here advantageously find a 
place. 

"The predisposing causes of those famous enterprises are generally attributed to the 
impulsive influence of religion upon the barbaric mind, the institution of chivalry, the union 
of martial and superstitious feelings, and the influence of fanatical enthusiasm. But the 
proximate causes are seen in the persecuting frenzy of Hakem, the third Fatiinite khalif, 
and in the fanatical cruelties of Seljukian Turks. The reports of returned pilgrims respect- 
ing the insulting and savage cruelty of the latter, as well as the destruction of the Church 
of the Resurrection by the former, excited general indignation ; but it was not till the return 
of Peter Gautier, an officer of Amiens, who had renounced his profession in order to under- 
take a pilgrimage, that any proposal was made for attempting the expulsion of the infidels 
from the Holy Land. Peter (the Hermit) laid before Pope Urban II. a project he had 
formed for expelling the infidels from Palestine ; which, being backed by the complaints 
of the Greek Emperor, Alexis, and the urgent appeals of Peter, the Pope was induced to 
espouse the projected enterprise ; accordingly he recommended to all Christian princes, first 
at the Council of Placentia, and afterward at that of Clermont, the duty of zealously engag- 
ing in this holy war. At the latter council the Pope obtained from the ambassadors present 
a commission for Peter Gautier to proceed forthwith in the prosecution of his chivalric 
design. The ensuing spring (1096) was appointed for the departure of the first army." 

A. D. 

The Crusades — Abortive Expeditions. 
1096 Peter the Hermit, issues from the western frontiers of Franco, leading an immense 
concourse of the lowest orders. 
The rabble multitude is divided : — 

Thejir8t division, of 20,000, is led by Walter the Pennyless through Hungary. 
In Bulgaria they are all destroyed, except Walter and a few who escape to Con- 
stantinople. 

The second division, of 40,000, under Peter the Hermit, advance into Hungary. 
They destroy Malleville (Zemlin) and slaughter its inhabitants. 
Carloman, King of Hungary, marches against them. 
The Bulgarians cut them off by thousands. 

At Nissa they are routed with great slaughter; their camp is despoiled, and their bag- 
gage plundered, &c. 

The remnant arrive at Constantinople in great distress ; they pass into Asia Minor. 
They are nearly all cut off by the Turks in the plain of Nice; only 3000 escape. 
Fall of Walter the Pennyless. 

Third division, of 15,000, from Germany, under Gondenschal, a German monk. 
Their atrocious wickedness in Hungary ends in their ruthless massacre at Belgrade. 



346 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Chronology of the Crusades. 



A.. D 

1096 Fourth division, of 200,000, composed of one huge mass of the vile refuse of France, 

Flanders, the Rhenish Provinces, and England. 
They are guided by two 'divinely inspired' animals — a goat and a goose. 
Massacre of Jews at Mayence and Spires, and other places in Germany. 
The Crusaders overthrown in Hungary. 

[" So dreadful tho carnage that the course of the Danube was choked with the bodies, 
and its waters dyed with the blood of the slain." " Before twelve months had 
expired since the spirit of crusading was roused into action by the Council of Cler- 
mont, and before a single advantage had been gained over the infidels, the fanatical 
enthusiasm of Europe had already cost the lives, at the lowest computation, of 
250,000 of its people. But while the first disasters of the Crusade were sweeping 
this mass of corruption from the surface of society, the genuine spirit of religious 
and martial enthusiam was more slowly and powerfully evolved. With maturer 
preparation, and with steadier resolve, than the half-armed and irregular rabble, the 
mailed and organized chivalry of Europe was arraying itself for the mighty con- 
test ; and a far different, a splendid and interesting spectacle opens to our view." — 
Procter. - ] 

THE FIRST CRUSADE. 

L096 Though not undertaken by any of the crowned heads of Europe, was eagerly embraced 
by the most distinguished feudal princes of the second order, viz. : — 
Godfrey of Bouillon, with his two brothers, Eustace and Baldwin, and a kinsman also 
named Baldwin ; Hugh, Count of Vermandois, and Robert of Normandy, brothers 
of the French and English Kings; Robert of Flanders, Stephen of Chartres, and 
Raymond of Thoulouse — the first temporal prince who assumed the crown ; Boe- 
mond, son of Robert Guiscard, Prince of Tarento, and his cousin Tancred. 
Order of Departure, 

The first division, under Godfrey, consisted of the nobility of the Rhenish provinces 

and the north of Germany. 
Godfrey receives assistance from Carloman of Hungary and the Emperor Alexius : he 

peaceably arrives with his army on the fertile plains of Thrace. 
The second division, under the Counts of Vermandois and Chartres, embraced the 

chivalry of Central and Northern France, the British Isles, Normandy, and 

Flanders. 

Their passage from Italy is opposed by the Emperor Alexius, and Hugh is made pri- 
soner at Durazzo. 

Thrace ravaged by the Crusaders, under Godfrey, in retaliation for the opposition 

offered Hugh of Vermandois by the Emperor Alexius. 
The third division, under Boemond and Tancred, composed of Southern Italians — 

10,000 horse, and 20,000 foot. 
The fourth division, under the Count of Thoulouse, includes his own vassals and native 

confederates, comprehended under the general appellation of Provencals. 

1097 Godfrey at open war with Alexius : seizure of the bridge of Blachernse; attack upon 

Constantinople. 
Hugh of Vermandois mediates. 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 347 



Chronology of the Crusades. 



A. D. 

1097 Messages from Boemond and the Count of Thoulouse, requesting Godfrey to defer 

negotiations till they should arrive. 
Godfrey submits ; hence an 

Accommodation between the wily Alexius and the crusading princes ; the latter swears 

fealty, the former delivers his son as hostage. 
Approach of the third division to the Byzantine capital. 
Boemond at first refuses to do homage to Alexius, but afterward submits. 
The fourth division next approaches — its leader, Raymond, sternly refuses homage to 

Alexius whom he menaces. 
Alexius craftily gains the ascendancy over the mind of the aged, though stern, 

Raymond. 

Muster of the several divisions in the plain of Asia Minor; numbers estimated — 
including 100,000 mailed cavalry, and a prodigious number of priests, women, and 
children— at about 700,000. 

Siege of Nice, June 20 ; it falls into the hands of the Greeks by stratagem. 

Battle of Dorylseum in July ; ultimate victory of the Crusaders. 

Evacuation of Asia Minor by the Sultan of Roum. 

Triumphant entry of the crusading hosts into Syria. 

Battle between Tancred and Baldwin. 

Baldwin separates from the main body and proceeds eastward, victoriously overrun- 
ning the whole country as far as the Euphrates. 
The Crusaders lay siege to Antioch. 

Famine and pestilence in the Christian camp ; desertion of great numbers to Baldwin 
in Mesopotamia, &c. ; cowardice of the Duke of Normandy, Count of Chartres, the 
Viscount of Melun, and Peter the Hermit. 

1098 The Latin principality of Edessa founded by Baldwin. 

Siege of Antioch renewed; the Turks defeated through the treachery of Phirouzj 
city surprised and captured ; the Turkish garrison escape within the citadel. 

The Sultan of Persia unites the Turks against the Christian invaders; twenty-eight 
emirs lead a force of from 3000 to 4000 cavalry to relieve the garrison in the Cita- 
del of Antioch. 

Blockade of the Crusaders in the city. 

Second famine ; horrible distress, attended by cannibalism, and vice of every kind. 
Alexius abandons their relief. 

The despairing Crusaders are called into action by superstition and the imposture of 
a priest. 

Great battle of Antioch; the Turks routed with terrible slaughter. 
Foundation of the Latin principality of Antioch; Boemond its ruler. 
Disunion among tho crusading princes. 

Third famine and pestilence in Antioch, which sweep off 100,000 persons — cannibalism 
again resorted to. 

Iu99 The Crusaders, now numbering only 1500 cavalry and 20,000 infantry, and an equal 
number of unarmed camp followers, &c, proceeded from Antioch to Jaffa by sea. 
Jerusalem invested by the Crusaders, June. 



348 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Chronology of the Crusades. 



A. D. 

1099 Sufferings of the besieged from thirst. 

Arrival of Genoese galleys in Jaffa ; the mariners are brought to the camp to construct 

three movable towers. 
Jerusalem taken by the Crusaders, July 15,* frightful massacre of the Mussulmans 
and Jews. 

Extirpation of the Mussulman inhabitants ; the law of conquest supplies to Jerusalem 

a new and Christian population. 
Foundation of the Latin kingdom of Jerusalem ; its first king is 
Godfrey of Bouillon, elected by the army. 

He modestly declines the title of king, accepting only that of "Defender of the Tomb 
of Christ." 

[Thus the great design of the first Crusade had been accomplished, in the triumphant 
recovery of the Holy Sepulchre.] 

Foundation of the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem — the origin of which was an 
hospice founded in Jerusalem, in 1048, by a few merchants of Memphis, for the 
accommodation of pilgrims from Europe. An hospital for the sick was afterward 
added, hence the term — knights hospitallers ; the members of which are also known 
as the knights of Rhodes. When the Crusaders entered J erusalem, many of the cheva- 
liers determined on joining the order — Godfrey granted a donation, which example 
was followed by other princes. To the usual vows of chastity, poverty, and obedi- 
ence, was added a vow to be always ready to fight against Mohammedans, and all 
who forsook the true religion. Thus was the chivalric institution — the offspring of 
feudalism — made subservient to the interests of the church. See 1118. 

Flourishing period of chivalry. 

[On the continent, the lowest tenant, by military service, was fully included in the 
pretensions and privileges of nobility, except in the case of imperial feuds, which 
were not accounted noble beyond the third degree of subinfeudation. Hence tho 
land which bristled with fortresses afforded as many titles of nobility ; and every 
country was filled with a numerous order of minor counts, barons, and vavassors — the 
vassals of the greater feudatories, and themselves each the chieftain of a train of 
knightly dependants. The least of these last, who was bound or entitled to serve 
his lord as a horseman or chevalier— from whence are derived the original distinction, 
and the very name of Chivalry — was a member of the same aristocracy as the duke 
or count, the privileges of which order, according to feudal customs, formed an 
impassable line between it and the commonalty. The exact epoch at which Chivalry 
acquired a religious character, it is not easy to determine. In the age of Charle- 
magne, the form of knightly investiture was certainly unattended by any vows or 
ecclesiastical ceremonies : but in the eleventh century, it had become common to 
invoke the aid of religion in the inauguration of the knight. There is abundant 
proof, however, of the success of the church, before the Crusades, in infusing some 
religious principle into the martial spirit of Chivalry. The original obligations of 
this institution included loyalty and honor, courtesy and benevolence, generosity to 
enemies, protection to the feeble and the oppressed, and respectful tenderness to 
woman.] 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



349 



Chronology of the Crusades. 



A. D. 

1099 Approach of a great Fatimite army, swelled by Turks and Saracens. 
Battle of Ascalon; the Crusaders victorious ; they acquire much booty. 
Tho princes depart for Europe, except Tancred, •who remains with Godfrey. 
Daimbert, patriarch of Jerusalem. 

1100 Capture of Boemond, prince of Antioch, by an Armenian chieftain. 

Death of Godfrey, aged 40, five days preceding the first anniversary of his reign. 
Baldwin I., prince of Edessa, elected king of Jerusalem : he resigns to 
Baldwin du Bourg, the brother of Godfrey, the principality of Edessa. 

1101 First Crusade by land; or 

Supplementary Crusade under Counts Vermandois and Chartres. 

1102 Vermandois is wounded in a battle with the Mussulmans of Cilicia ; dies at Tarsus; 
Rash assault by a vanguard upon the Egyptian invaders ; Chartres taken and mur- 
dered ; Baldwin rescued from death by a grateful emir. 

1 103 Azotus reduced by Baldwin ; the siege of Acre formed. 

1 104 Arrival of seventy Genoese ships with Crusaders, which results in the conquest of 

Acre by Baldwin I. 

1106 The Count of Thoulouse is joined by several French princes, who had arrived in the 
Supplemental Crusade, (1101.) 
Tortosa taken by Raymond. 
U08 Bertrand, son of Raymond, effects the conquest of Tripoli. 

1109 Tripoli and its vicinity erected into a county, by Baldwin, for the house of Thoulouse. 
Hence " County of Tripoli." 

1111 The Crusaders take Berytus. 
Sidon captured by the Crusaders. 

[With an interval of four years ; two fleets of Scandinavian cruisers, who had per- 
formed the long voyage from the Baltic, through the Straits of Gibraltar, to the 
Syrian shores, co-operated with the Christian forces of Palestine, in the siege of 
Sidon. Although the first attempt was repulsed, the second proved successful.] 

1112 Critical position of the State of Edessa, surrounded by Armenians and Turks. 
Heroic exploits of its prince, Baldwin du Bourg, and his relative, Joscelyn da 

Courtenay. 

Arrival of large numbers of pilgrims and Crusaders from Europe. 

1 113 The order of Knights Hospitallers of St. John confirmed by Papal Bull. 

The Suljuk Turks of Aleppo, Damascus, and Iconium, aided by Mohammedans of 
Arabia, Egypt, and Persia, harass and often defeat the Crusaders. 

1117 Birth of Noureddin, the younger son of Zenghi, second of the Attabek princes. 

1118 Expedition against Egypt conducted by Baldwin. 

Death of Baldwin I. (in March) on his march toward Egypt ; his cousin. 
Baldwin II. (Prince of Edessa), King of Jerusalem. 

The order of Knights Hospitallers of the order of St. John (called also Knights of 

Malta) becomes a military order. Hence 
Knights Templars : institution of the order of the Temple of Solomon. 
[The object of the institution of this order was to act in a military capacity to protect 

pilgrims. See 1099. 



350 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Chronology of the Crusades. 

A. i>. 

1118 [The military orders were, in the first instance, subjected to the rule of St. Augustin ; 
modified, of course, in some degree, by the peculiar object of their institution. The 
most ancient of these was the order of the Knights Hospitallers of St. John of Jeru- 
salem, established in the first instance (1048) for the reception and care of pilgrims 
visiting the Holy City. This order became monastic in 1092, and in 1118 added the 
military qualification.] 

1120 Zenghi, governor of Mosul, (1145, 1146.) 

1124 Tyre reduced by Baldwin II., aided by the Doge of Venice, who obtains the sove- 
reignty of one-third of the city. 

[All the maritimo republics of Italy, with their characteristic mercantile cupidity, 
extorted great commercial advantages, as the price of their services to the Crusaders. 
And throughout the Christian possessions in Palestine and Syria generally, the three 
republics of Genoa, Pisa, and Venice contended, often with bloodshed, for the right 
of establishing places of exchange, and enjoying the common or exclusive privileges 
of trade.] 

Archbishopric of Tyre established. 

Extension of the Latin kingdom of Jerusalem, from the sea-coast to the deserts of 
Arabia, and from the city of Beritus, on the north, to the frontiers of Egypt, on the 
south, forming a territory about 60 leagues in length, and 30 in breadth ; and exclu- 
sive of the county of Tripoli, which stretched northward from Beritus to the borders 
of the Antiochian principality. 
1131 Abdication of Baldwin, with the consent of his nobles and prelates, in favor of his 
son-in-law. 

Foulques (of Anjou) King of Jerusalem. 

Baldwin retires to a convent. 
J 144 Baldwin III., King of Jerusalem, (13 years old,) in conjunction with his mother, 
Melesinda. 

[Soon after the martial sceptre of the house of Bouillon had devolved upon a woman 
and a minor, the Christian power in the East began to decline.] 

1145 Fall of Edessa; Zenghi, the Turkish emir of Aleppo, takes it by storm. 
Indignation excited in Europe by the event. 

St. Bernard preaches a Second Crusade, which is promoted by Louis of France. 

[At the soul-stirring exhortations of St. Bernard, the great feudatory princes of Bava- 
ria, Bohemia, Carinthia, Piedmont, and Styria, with a crowd of inferior chieftains, 
assumed the cross ; and the conversion of the emperor Conrad III., after some strug- 
gle between the sense of political interest and religious duty, completed the triumph 
of the pious orator.] 

Decline of the power of the Crusaders. 

1146 Zenghi murdered by his own troops at the siege of Jabbar; his son, Noureddin, the 

third of the dynasty of the Attabeks of Syria, becomes King of Aleppo and Da- 
mascus. 

He maintains war against the Crusaders. 

1147 The Second Crusade; led by the Emperor Conrad III., and by Louis VI, King of 

France. 



JERUSALEM 



— AS IT WAS. 



351 



Chronology of the Crusades. 



1147 [The number of the Crusaders has been estimated as approaching near to a million j 

of which 70,000 were mailed cavalry, and 250,000 were trained infantry; the rest 

were clergy, pilgrims, women, and camp followers.] 
Treacherous policy of Comnenus, the Greek emperor ; he harasses the Crusaders in 

their march through Bulgaria. 
Conrad, on arriving at Constantinople, indignantly refuses to have an interview with 

Comnenus. 

Louis arrives at Constantinople after the departure of Conrad; he accepts the apolo- 
gies, and is induced to delay his march by the treacherous emperor. 

Almost total destruction of the imperial army in the passes of Lycaonia by the Sultan 
of Iconium. 

Louis encamps at Nice; here he is joined by Conrad and the remnant of the imperial 
army. 

The united forces come to Ephesus ; here they separate — the Germans proceed by sea 

to Palestine ; the French by land. 
Sanguinary defeat of the Turks by Louis, on the banks of the Meander. 

1148 Surprise and defeat of Louis in the mountains between Pisidia and Phrygia; narrow 

escape of the king. 
Retreat upon the port of Attalia. 

Louis transports his nobles and knights by sea to Palestine. 

The infantry and pilgrims left behind perish, either by the cimetars of the Turks, or 

the unnatural cruelty of the Greeks. 
The sovereigns of Jerusalem, Germany, and France, resolve on reducing Damascus. 

1149 Great victory of Saladin over the Christians at Antioch ; Raymond is killed, Joscelyn 

de Courtenay made prisoner. 
Unsuccessful siege of Damascus. 

Return of Louis; he lands at St. Gilles on the Rhone, in October. 

[Louis left Metz in 1147, at the head of 70,000 knights, mounted and armed, and a 
band of infantry and camp followers, amounting to about 200,000. He returned a 
fugitive, with about 300 followers, in barks furnished by Sicily.] 

1150 Return of Conrad with the miserable remnant of his army. 

[Thus ended abortively the Second Crusade, leaving the Christian cause in Palestine 
again deserted, save by the scanty bands, but enduring courage of its habitual 
defenders.] 

1151 Increasiug danger of the Latin kingdom of Palestine from the arms of Noureddin, 

the Attabek of Aleppo. 
Victory of Baldwin III. over the Turks at Jericho. 
1153 Ascalon falls by the chivalry of Baldwin. 

1162 Death of Baldwin III. ; his brother Aimer ic succeeds as King of Jerusalem. 

[Though Baldwin was destitute of any high degree of ability, his character was graced 
by many noble and chivalric qualities. As he left no children, he was succeeded by 
his brother Almeric, whose equal mediocrity of talent was unrelieved by the same 
virtues.] 



352 



CIT\ OF THE GREAT KING. 



Chronology of the Crusades. 



A. D. 

1162 Almeric neglects immediate dangers, and wastes his energies in projects for the con- 

quest of Egypt; 
Victory of Almeric over Shiracouch. 
Pelusium besieged and taken. 

1163 Surprise and sanguinary defeat of Almeric, near Artesia, by Noureddin. 

1167 Second signal defeat of Shiracouch on the Egyptian frontiers; the Turks capitulate 

and engage to evacuate Egypt. 

1168 Project of Almeric for the permanent subjugation of Egypt. 
Pelusium taken, and cruelly sacked by Almeric. 

He advances before the wall of Cairo. 
Death of Noureddin. 

1169 Failure of the project of Almeric, owing to the faithlessness of the Greek Emperor 

and the craft of the vizier Shaweer. 
Retreat of Almeric into Palestine. 

Rise of Sallah-u-deen, or Saladin — the scourge of the Christian fortunes in Palestine, 
1171 Saladin deposes the sons of Noureddin, and unites under his sway all the Mussulman 
states from the Nile to the Tigris. 

Dissensions and weakness of the Latin kingdom of Palestine. 
1173 Death of Almeric; his son 

Baldwin IV. (a leper) King of Jerusalem. 

Regency of the king's sister, Sybilla, and her husband, Guy de Lusignan. 
Disaffection of the barons of Palestine. 

1176 Siege of Alexandria. 

1177 Defeat of Saladin before Jerusalem. 
1183 Abdication of Raldwin IV.; his nephew 

Baldioin V. (an infant) under the protection of Joscelyn de Courtenay. 
Raymond, regent of the kingdom. 
Subjugation of Aleppo by Saladin. 
Death of the ex-king, Baldwin IV. 
Suspicious death of Baldwin V. 

1186 Guy de Lusignan, King of Jerusalem. 

Civil war ; Raymond of Tripoli allies himself with Saladin against Lusignan. 

1187 Saladin demands redress for an outrage perpetrated by Reginald de Chatillon. 
Lusignan refuses justice, whereupon 

Saladin invades Palestine with an army of 80,000 horse and foot. 

Battle of Tiberias; sanguinary defeat of the Crusaders; Guy de Lusignan made pri- 
soner; Chatillon decapitated by Saladin himself, and 230 of the Knights of St. John 
taken prisoners and inhumanly murdered by his orders. 

[The Christians were betrayed by the Count of Tripoli. See 1086.] 

Fall of Caesarea, Acre, Jaffa, and Beritus. 

Tyre besieged ; Saladin abandons the siege and marches against Jerusalem. 
Saladin takes Jerusalem, October 2. 

[Thus after a possession, by the Christians, of 88 years, Jerusalem was again denied 
by the religion and empire of the votaries of Mohammed.] 



JERUSALEM— AS IT WAS. 



353 



Chronology of the Crusades. 



1187 Fall of Bethlehem, Nazareth, Ascalon, and Sidon. 

Tyre, defended by Conrad of Montferrat, holds out against Saladin. 
[The news of the fall of Jerusalem, &c, filled all Western Christendom with horror 
and grief.] 

A " Saladine" tithe is exacted in Europe for fitting out armaments for Palestine. 

1188 Popular expeditions preceding 

THE THIRD CRUSADE — by Sea. 

["All the principal sovereigns of Europe, except those of Spain, vowed to lead their 
national forces to the recovery of Jerusalem ; but even their earnest preparations 
were too tardy for popular impatience."] 

Myriads arrive in Palestine from the ports of Italy, the Baltic, the North Sea, Eng- 
land, and the Mediterranean, at their own expense. 

1189 Siege of Acre commenced; 100,000 Crusaders, led by many noblemen and prelates 

under Lusignan, appear before the city. 
["On both sides the frightful consumption of human life was fed by new arrivals; and 
during nearly two years the strength of Christendom and Islam was concentrated 
and exhausted in an indecisive conflict before the single city of Acre."] 
Departure of King Richard from England, Dec. 11. 

1190 Richard I. of England, and Philip-Auguste of France, assemble their forces (amount- 

ing to 100,000 men) on the plain of Vezelay, July 1. 
Louis departs from Genoa for Sicily. 
Richard's army sails from Marseilles. 

Violent proceedings of King Richard toward Tancred, <fcc, in Sicily. 
Dissensions between Louis and Richard. 

Frederic (Barbarossa) defeats the Sultan of Iconium, who sues for peace. 

Death of Frederic — drowned while attempting to swim across the river Calycadnus in 

Cilicia, June 10. 
The Duke of Suabia takes the command. 
Antioch taken by the imperial army. 

Fearful destruction of life in the army of the German Crusaders. 
Institution of Teutonic Order of knights. 

[About 60 years before this time, a German crusader and his lady founded hospitals 
in Jerusalem for poor pilgrims of both sexes, of their nation ; and when subsequent 
endowments had enriched these houses, the male brethren devoted themselves to 
military as well as charitable services. But their efforts had obtained little distinc- 
tion; and their fraternity was dissolved by the expulsion of the Christians from 
Jerusalem. Its purposes were now recalled to the national attention by the private 
charity of some individuals among the German army, who opened their tents for 
the reception of their sick and wounded countrymen. A number of knights having 
joined this benevolent association, the Duke of Suabia. seized the occasion to incoi 
porate them into a regular order of religious chivalry. Note to 1099.] 

Arrival of Philip of France before Acre from Sicily. 

Conquest of Cyprus by King Richard. 
23 



354 



CITY OF THE 



GREAT KING. 



Chronology of the Crusades. 



1190 Richard's fleet dispersed by a storm. 

1191 A Mussulman troop-ship, manned by 1500 hands, destroyed by Richard. 
Arrival of the English before Acre, June 10. 

King Richard insults Leopold of Austria before Acre. 

Acre capitulates, July 12; 5000 hostages left by Saladin, till the ransom money of 

200,000 pieces of gold should be paid. 
[The conquest was dearly acquired by the loss of 100,000 Christians.] 
Cold-blooded massacre of the Mussulman hostages; followed by the retaliating 

slaughter of the captive Christians by Saladin. 
Open rupture between Richard and Philip. 

Philip of France retires from the crusade, leaving 10,000 of his troops under the Duke 

of Burgundy. 
Conrad, Prince of Tyre, King of Jerusalem. 
Assassination of Conrad ; followed by 

Marriage of Henry, Count of Champagne, with Conrad's widow ; hence 
Henry, of Champagne, King of Jerusalem. 
The kingdom of Cyprus founded. 

King Richard departs from Acre at the head of the combined army, 30,000 strong. 
The Crusaders winter on the coast. 

1192 Arrival of the Christian host in the valley of Hebron ; terror of the infidels. 
The Austrians desert the Crusade ; also the Duke of Burgundy and the French. 
Unexpected retreat of the Crusaders from before Jerusalem. 

Jaffa seized by Saladin. 

Gallant exploits of Richard at Askelon, <fcc. 

Battle of Askelon (called by some the battle of Ashdod or Azotus) ; defeat of Saladin; 
20 emirs and 40,000 Turks and Saracens (including 7000 cavalry) killed, Septem- 
ber 7. 

Ascalon, Jaffa, Csesarea, and other places fall into the hands of the Crusaders. 

Truce for three years between Saladin and Richard ; the latter dismantles Ascalon, 

and tho former engages not to molest Tyre, Acre, Jaffa, Antioch, and Tripoli, and 

to grant free access to all Christians visiting Jerusalem. 
Departure of Richard's fleet, having on board his queen, sister, and the daughter of 

the captive king of Cyprus. 
Richard sails from Acre, October 9. 
End of the third Crusade. 

Richard lands at Corfu in November, and leaves it about the middle of the same 
month. 

L193 Death of Saladin, March 4. 

[He is, perhaps, the brightest examplar in history of an Asiatic hero ; and his virtues, 

like the dark traits which obscured them, exhibit the genuine lineaments of his 

clime and race.] 
Division of Saladin's empire ; his brother 

Saphadin reigns in Syria, while his three sons erect distinct thrones at Cairo, Damas- 
cus, and Aleppo. 



.1 

JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



355 



Chronology of the Crusades. 



1194 A new Crusade preached in Germany. * 

1195 Crusade of German chivalry; three great armaments under the guidance of nobles and 

prelates successively arrive at Acre. 
Union of the Mussulman powers of Egypt and Syria against the Crusaders. 

1196 Indecisive results of this campaign. 
Jerusalem still in the hands of the infidels. 

1197 Death of Henry, nominal king of Jerusalem. 

Almerie of Lusignan marries the widow of Henry, and is recognised King of Jeru- 
salem and Cyprus. 
A fourth Crusade promoted by Innocent III. 

1198 Folques of Neuilly atones for a life of sin by preaching a new Crusade. 
["Without the rude originality of Peter the Hermit, or the learning of St. Bernard, 

he, nevertheless, kindled the flame of religious enthusiasm throughout Flanders and 
France."] 

1200 Many French barons, <fec, take the Cross ; the chief promoter is Thibaud, Count of 

Champagne. 

The barons of France implore, upon their knees, the maritime aid of Venice. 

The Venetians agree to convey the armaments to Palestine for 85,000 silver marks. 

1201 The Crusade delayed — 1st, by the death of Thibaud ; 2d, by dissensions among the 

leaders; 3d, by the deficiency of 30,000 marks to pay for transhipment. 

THE FOURTH CRUSADE. 

1202 Departure of the Crusaders under the Marquis of Montserrat ; Zara captured ; denun- 

ciations of the Pope; return of De Mountfort; new destination of the armament, 
owing to the successful negotiations of the friends of young Alexius with the Latin 
barons, &c, to replace his father on the throne of the East, which his uncle had 
usurped. 

1203 The Crusaders sail for Constantinople. 
Negotiations with Alexius ; siege. 
Flight of Alexius ; Isaac restored. 
Disunion between the Latins and Greeks. 

Young Alexius induces the Crusaders to defer their expedition till the next year. 
Third part of Constantinople burned in a feud. 

The Crusaders demand the fulfilment of Alexius's pecuniary agreement; they defy the 

two emperors, which leads to 
Open hostilities ; the Crusaders and the Greeks at war. 

1204 Revolution in Constantinople; the two emperors deposed by Mourzoufle; Alexius is 

murdered. 
Death of Isaac in prison. 
Second siege of Constantinople. 
Treaty of partition by the Crusaders. 
Capture of Constantinople, April 12. 

A second conflagration ; destruction of the remains of ancient letters and art, &c> 
Pillage ; public distribution of the spoils. 



356 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Chronology of the Crusades. 



A. D. 

1204 Baldwin, of Flanders, the first Latin Emperor of the East. 

The Eastern kingdom divided between the Latin barons and the Venetian*? 
Capture of Mourzoufle ; he is thrown from the summit of the Theodosian pillar. 
Theodore Lascaris devotes himself to the rescue of his country from the Latin domi- 
nation. 

1204 End of the Fourth Crusade. 

[In the division and enjoyment of a conquered empire, the confederated barons seemed 
to have forgotten the original object of their expedition ; and the vain trophies of a 
victory, not over Paynim, but»Christian enemies — the gates and chain of the harbor 
of Constantinople — sent by the new Emperor of the East to Palestine, were the only 
fruits of the fourth Crusade, which ever reached the Syrian shores.] 
1204 Truce with Saphidin for six years. 

["The cupidity of the leaders of the fourth Crusade occasioned the loss of the fairest 
opportunity of re-establishing the Christian fortunes in Palestine. The dissensions 
of the Mussulman princes, and the ravages of a dreadful famine, and consequent 
pestilence in Egypt, would have effectually paralyzed all opposition from that dan- 
gerous quarter to the success of the crusading arms. But the hopes excited for the 
Christian cause were completely lost in the diversion of the fourth Crusade against 
the Eastern Empire."] 

1210 John de Brienne, King of Jerusalem. 

Saphidin applies for a prolongation of the truce, which the Latins refuse. 

1211 The Mussulman arms are successful against the Latins, who are in great straits. 

1213 Appeal of John de Brienne to the Pope for succor against the infidels. 

1214 The Pope decrees another Crusade. 

1215 The 4th Lateran council zealously adopt 

THE FIFTH CRUSADE — by Sea. 

1217 First expedition, the Hungarian Crusaders under their King Andrew. 

Second expedition ; Germans, Italians, French, English, under Duke of Austria. 

1217 Abortive campaign of King Andrew. 

The Turks expel the Saracens from Jerusalem. 

1218 Return of Andrew of Hungary. 
Numerous accessions from Germany. 
The Crusaders invade Egypt. 

Siege and capture of Damietta. 

1219 Two of the sons of Saphidin, Coradinus and Camel, offer the cession of Jerusalem, on 

condition that the Crusaders evacuate Egypt. 
This most acceptable offer rejected, through the cupidity of the papal legate. 

1220 Disastrous condition of the Crusaders near Cairo ; the legate sues for peace. 
Peace purchased by the surrender of Damietta to the Sultan of Cairo. 

1221 Disgraceful return of the Crusaders from Egypt to Acre. 

1224 Embassy of Herman de Saltza, Grand-Master of the Teutonic knights, to the Emperor 
Frederic, offering him the hand of Iolanta, daughter and heiress of John de Brienne, 
King of Jerusalem. 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 357 



Chronology of the Crusades. 



1225 Marriage of the Emperor Frederic and Iolanta; her dower consisting of the transfer 
of the sovereign rights of her father to Frederic. 
Frederic promises to lead an army into Palestine, for its reconquest, within two years. 

1228 Frederic (emperor) arrives in Palestine with a reinforcement in 28 galleys. 
Difficulties of Frederic, arising from the iniquitous persecution of the Pope. 
Negotiations with the Sultan Coradinus ; peace concluded for ten years ; free access to 

Jerusalem granted to the Christians: with possession of Bethlehem, Nazareth, &c. 

1229 Frederic crowns himself in Jerusalem ; the patriarch having refused to perform the 

ceremony. 
Return of Frederic to Germany ; and 
End of the Fifth Crusade. 

Death of the Empress Iolanta in giving birth to a son. 

1230 Civil war ; struggle for the Crown between the partisans of Frederic, and those of Alice, 

widow of Hugh de Lusignan. 
Reconciliation effected by the mediation of Pope Gregory IX. 
Renewal of hostilities between the Emirs of Syria and the Latins. 
Several thousand pilgrims slaughtered. 

Sanguinary defeat of the Knights Templars, by the Emir of Aleppo. 
1232 Another Crusade projected by the Council of Spoletto : the Dominicans and Francis- 
cans are authorized to preach it. 
Appropriation of the moneys collected for the Crusade, by the Pope and his agents. 

1235 Armenia seized by the Mogols. 

1236 The Christians expelled from Jerusalem by the Sultan of Egypt. 

1237 Martial and religious enthusiasm excited throughout Europe. 
The nobles of France and England take the Cross. 

the sixth crusade— two expeditions. 

1238 I. Expedition of the French Crusaders under Thibaud, Count of Champagne, Duke of 

Burgundy, <fec. 

Defeat of the Crusaders at Gaza; Count de Bar slain, Armory de Montfort, and many 

nobles and knights taken captive. 
Retreat of the King of Navarre upon Acre. 
The French leaders, &c, return home. 

II. Expedition of Richard, Earl of Cornwall, who lands at Acre, accompanied by the 

flower of the English chivalry. 
His arrival strikes the Mussulmans with terror, and inspires the Christians with confi- 
dence. 

Richard demands the restoration of the prisoners taken at the battle of Gaza. 
He marches upon Jaffa ; but 

The Sultans of Egypt and Damascus hasten to negotiate for peace. 
1240 Jerusalem restored to the Christians. 
Restoration of 600 Christian prisoners. 
Return of Richard, Earl of Cornwall. 
End of the Sixth Crusade. 



358 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Chronology of the Crusades. 



1241 The fortifications of Jerusalem rebuilt by the Knights Templars. 

The ravages of the Moguls in Asia Minor drive several tribes into Syria for settle- 
ments. One of these tribes — 

The Kharizmian horde (20,000 cavalry), under Barbacan, enter Palestine, being 
guided by an Egyptian emir. 

1242 Jerusalem captured by Barbacan, and finally lost to the Christians. 
Indiscriminate massacre of the inhabitants ; pillage of the city ; general ruin. 

The Knights Templars unite with the Moslems of Damascus, Aleppo, Ems, against the 
Egyptians and Kharizmians. 

1243 Terrible defeat of the Christian chivalry and their Moslem allies. 
Fall of Tiberias, Ascalon, &c. 

Palestine overrun by the Kharizmians. 

1244 The Christian chivalry confined to Acre. 

Disunion between the Kharizmians and Egyptians; the former expelled from Palestine. 
Holy Sepulchre in the hands of infidels. 

THE SEVENTH CRUSADE. 

1245 The new Crusade was resolved upon at the Council of Lyons; temporal wars to be 

suspended for four years. 
Crusade embraced in England and France. 

1247 Cyprus the rendezvous of the French Crusaders ; here they spend eight months. 

1248 Louis sails for Egypt with 1800 vessels, and 50,000 men. 

[In imitation of the plan of the fifth Crusade, Egypt, as the principal seat of the Mos- 
lem power, was again selected for the theatre of operations.] 

A storm disperses the fleet; only 700 knights, under the king, make the port. 

Panic of the Mussulmans ; they evacuate Damietta to the French. 

Arrival of those dispersed by the storm, with a body of English nobles under William 
Longsword. 

March of the French toward Cairo. 

1249 Rashness of the Count d'Artois at Mansora ; himself, William Longsword, and a host 

of knights slain. 
Death of Nedjmeddin, Sultan of Egypt. 
Louis defeats the Moslems at Mansora. 

Crusaders in distress ; famine and pestilence make frightful ravages among them. 

1250 Total rout of the Crusaders at Mansora, and capture of Louis ; destruction of at least 

30,000 Christians. 
Revolution in Egypt; Louis in danger. 

Surrender of Damietta to the Turks, April 5, in exchange for the king and nobles. 
The king proceeds to Acre ; but most of his nobles return home. 
[During four years, the treasures which Louis was enabled to raise were lavishly 
expended in refortifying Jaffa, Cassaroa, Sidon, and Acre.] 

1253 Dissensions among the Moslem emirs of Syria and Egypt ; henee the hopes of the 

Christians revive. 

1254 Renewal of hostilities ; the Moslem hordes approach Acre, but soon retire. 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



359 



Chronology of the Crusades. 



A. D. 

1254 The news of the death of the queen-mother of France hastens the 
Departure of Louis for Europe. 

End of the Seventh Crusade. 

1255 Commercial and political rivalry of the Venetian States the cause of troubles in 

Palestine. 
Disunion between the several orders. 
1257 Sanguinary battles between the Templars and Knights Hospitallers ; complete and 
merciless destruction of the former. 
Preparations of the Templars in Europe for inflicting a desperate vengeance upon the 
Hospitallers. 

1260 Approach of the Mamelukes ; occupation of Damascus and Aleppo. 
1263 Mameluke invasions, under Bondocdar. 

Desperate and unequal battles between the now united orders and the Mamelukes. 

1265 Loss of Azotus ; Latins put to the sword. 

1266 Surrender of Saphoury; Bondocdar (or Bibars) treacherously violates his treaty, and 

murders all his prisoners. 

1267 Loss of Csesarea, Laodicea, and Jaffa. 

1268 Fall of Antioch before Bibars of Egypt; massacre of 40,000 (?; Christians; 100,000 

are sold as slaves. 
Antioch abandoned to desolation and ruin. 
Acre is alone in the hands of the Christians. 

1269 Another crusade is proposed and eagerly adopted in Europe. 

THE EIGHTH AND LAST CRTTSADE. 

1270 Undertaken by Louis IX., but diverted to Africa. 

Prince Edward of England separates from the French before Tunis, and proceeds to 
Sicily. 

1271 From Sicily he departs for Palestine at the head of about 1000 Englishmen. 
Edward arrives in Palestine in May. 

The report of his arrival strikes Bondocdar with terror : he retires from before Acre. 
Edward, with only 9000 men, marches against the infidels, and routs them with 
slaughter. 

Assault on Nazareth ; capture of the city, and dreadful slaughter of the Moslems. 
Edward's army fall victims to disease. 
Edward is himself taken ill. 

Narrow escape from assassination ; Edward kills the assassin (a Mussulman). 

[None of the writers contemporary with this event knew anything of that beautiful 
fiction — the creation of a much later age — which ascribes the recovery of Edward 
to the affectionate devotion of his consort, Eleanor, in sucking the venom from hia 
wounds.] 

Truce for ten years offered by the Sultan of Egypt ; accepted by Edward. 

1272 Edward and his wife Eleanor return home. 
End of the Eighth Crusade. 

1274 Pope Gregory X. endeavors to revive the crusading spirit in Europe. 



360 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Chronology of the Crusades. 



1276 The Latins twice plunder the peaceable Moslem traders; satisfaction for which Keladun, 

Sultan of Egypt, vainly demands. 
1280 Invasion of Palestine by the Mamelukes, who renew their ravages every year. 

1289 Dismemberment of the county of Tripoli from the Latin kingdom, by the Mamelukes. 
Tyre and Sidon destroyed by the Turks, so that they might not afford protection any 

longer to the Christians. 

1290 Further outrages on Mussulman merchants by the inhabitants of Acre. 
Sultan Khatil demands reparation : denied. 

1291 Khatil, having vowed to exterminate the faithless Franks, leads an army of 200,000 

men against Acre. 
Fall of Acre, the last Christian possession in Palestine. 
End of the War of the Crusades. 

[" The cessation of the Crusades was not produced by any abatement of the love of 
arms, or of the thirst of glory, in the chivalry of Europe. But the union with these 
martial qualities of that fanatical enthusiasm which inspired the Christian warriors 
of the eleventh century, had been slowly, and almost thoroughly dissolved."] 



CHAPTER XIII. 



JERUSALEM UNDER CHRISTIAN DOMINATION. 

FROM THE JOURNAL OF SAEWULF — A. D. 1102, 1103. 

[Immediately after the foundation of the Latin Kingdom in Palestine.) 

"Below Mount Calvary, where the patriarch Abraham raised an 
altar, is the place called Golgotha, where Adam is said to have been 
raised to life by the blood of our Lord which fell upon him, as is 
said in the passion, < and many bodies of the saints which slept 
arose.' * * * At the head of the Church of the Sepulchre is the 
place called Compass, which our Lord Jesus Christ himself signified 
and measured with his own hand as the middle of the world. * * * 
On the other side of the Church of St. John, is a very fair monas- 
tery of the Church of the Holy Trinity, in which is the place of the 
Baptistery. * * * Without the gate of the Holy Sepulchre, to the 
south, is the Church of St. Mary, called the Latin. Adjoining to 
this church is another, called St. Mary the Little, occupied by nuns 
who serve devoutly the Virgin and her Son. Near which is the 
Hospital, where is a celebrated hospital, founded in honor of St. 
John the Baptist. * * * * There still are seen in the rock, in the 
Temple of our Lord, the footsteps of our Lord when he concealed 
himself and went out. * * * There is the gate of the city on the 
eastern side of the Temple which is called the Golden, where 
the Emperor Heraclius entered Jerusalem victorious when he 
returned from Persia with the cross of our Lord ; but the stones 



862 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Saewulf. 

first fell down and closed up the passage so that the gate became 
one mass, until, humbling himself at the admonition of an angel, 
he descended from his horse, and so the entrance was opened to 
him. In the court of the Temple of the Lord to the south is the 
Temple of Solomon,* of wonderful magnitude ; on the east side of 
which is an oratory, containing the cradle of Christ and his bath, 
and the bed of the Virgin Mary. From the Temple of the Lord 
you go to the Church of St. Anne, the mother of the blessed Mary, 
towards the north. Near it is the pool, which in Hebrew is called 
Bethsaida, having five porticos,f of which the Gospel speaks. A 
little above is the place where the woman was healed by our Lord, 
by touching the hem of his garment. * * * About a stone's throw 
from the Church of the Ascension is the spot where, according to 
the Assyrians, our Lord wrote the Lord's prayer in Hebrew with 
his fingers, on marble ; and there a very beautiful church was built, 
but it has since been entirely destroyed by the pagans, as are all 
the churches outside the walls, except the Church of the Holy 
Ghost, about an arrowshot from the wall to the north. In that 
church is a chapel, where the blessed Mary died. On the other 
side of the church is the chapel where our Lord Jesus Christ first 
appeared to the apostles after his resurrection. * * * The stoning 
of St. Stephen took place about two or three arbalist (or cross-bow) 
shots without the wall to the north, where a very handsome church 
was built, which has been entirely destroyed by the pagans. The 
Church of the Holy Cross, about a mile to the west of Jerusalem, 
in the place where the Holy Cross was cut out, and which was also 
a very handsome one, has been similarly laid waste. Under the 
wall of the city, outside, on the declivity of Zion, is the Church of 
St. Peter, which is called the Gallican, where, after having denied 



* The present el-Aksa. 

f This must either have been the Trench 
of Antonia, the Pool of Struthion, or the Pis- 
cina Grandis Valde — one of the Geminalles ; 
and thai the five porticos were really there 



need not be doubted. The pious hands that 
could sculpture the impress of the Redeemer's 
feet in so many hard rocks, would surely not 
scruple to build these porticos ! 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 363 
Adventures of Sigard, the Norse King Crusader. 

his Lord, he hid himself in a very large crypt, as may still be seen 
there." 

Adventures of Sigard, the Worse King Crusader, 1107, 1111. 
(About the time that Tripoli/, BeirUt, and Sidon fell into the 
hands of the Crusaders under Baldwin 1st.) 

"A young king just and kind, 
People of loyal mind, 
Such brave men soon agree — 
To distant lands they sail with glee. 
To the distant Holy Land, 
A brave and pious band, 
Magnificent and gay, 
In sixty long ships glide away. 
Our king, whose land so wide 
No kingdom stands beside, 
In Jacob's Land next winter spent, 
On holy things intent." 

It is related in the Saga that amongst other splendid exploits he 
took a castle and killed every man in it because they refused to be 
baptized — 

"The men he treated as God's foes 
Who dared the true faith to oppose — 
No man he spared who would not take 
The Christian faith for Jesus' sake." 

King Baldwin made a sumptuous feast for King Sigard and 
many of his people ; and gave him numerous holy relics. By the 
orders of King Baldwin and the patriarch, there was taken a splinter 
off the Holy Cross, and on this holy relic both made oath that this 
wood was of the Holy Cross upon which God himself had been 
tortured. 

An Account of Jerusalem during the Frank occupation of Palestine, 
written about 1150 : by a Mussulman. 

" Beit el-Mocaddas (Jerusalem) is an illustrious city, ancient and 
full of old monuments. It bears the name of Ilia (JElia Capitolina), 



361 



CITY OF THE 



GREAT KING. 



Account of Jerusalem by a Mussulman. 

so designated by Hadrian, its reformer. Situated on a mountain 
of easy access on all sides, it extends from west to east. On 
the west is the gate called el-Mihrab ; beneath is the Dome of 
David (from which is announced the hours of prayer) ; on the east 
is the gate called Mercy, which is generally shut, and not to be 
opened except during the feast of doves ; on the south the Gate of 
Zion ; on the north the gate called Amoud el-Ghorab. In going 
from the western gate to el-Mihrab, one diverges towards the east 
by a large street, and reaches the great church called the Resurrec- 
tion, and which the Mohammedans call Comame. This church is the 
object of the pilgrimage of Christians from all the countries of the 
east and the west. One enters it through the west door, and arrives 
under the dome which covers all within, and which is one of the 
most remarkable things in the world. The church is below this 
gate, and it is impossible to descend into the inferior portion of the 
edifice by this side. One descends from the north side through a 
door opening on a staircase, which has thirty steps, which door is 
called Bab Santa Maria. At his entrance into the church, the spec- 
tator finds the Holy Sepulchre, a considerable edifice, having two 
doors and surmounted by a dome of very solid construction, very 
strong and built with admirable taste ; of these two doors, the one 
is made to face from the northern side to the door of Santa Maria, 
the other to face the south, and its name Bab el-Salsubie' (door of 
the Crucifixion) : the piazza of the church is on this side, being 
opposite the east ; towards the east is another considerable church, 
immense, where the Christians celebrate their holy services, and 
offer their prayers and oblations. 

" At the east of this church, in descending by a gentle declivity, 
one arrives at the prison where the Lord Messiah was detained, and 
the spot where he was crucified. The great dome is circular, piercing 
the open heavens, and one sees all around the interior, pictures re- 
presenting the Lord Messiah, St. Mary his mother, and St. John 
Baptist. Amongst the lamps which are suspended above the 
Holy Sepulchre, one distinguishes three which are of gold, and are 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



365 



Account of Jerusalem by a Mussulman. 

hung in a particular place. If you seek for the principal church, 
you diverge towards the east, and reach the holy dwelling-house 
which was built by Solomon, son of David, and which was a place 
of pilgrimage from the time of the power of the Jews. This their 
temple was afterwards forcibly taken and they were banished, from 
the epoch of the arrival of the Mohammedans. Under the Moham- 
medan dominion it was aggrandized, and this is (at present) the 
great mosque known to the Mohammedans by the name of Misdjed 
el-Aksa. There is nothing that exists in the world that equals it in 
grandeur, with the exception of the great Mosque of Cordoue in 
Andulasia ; for according to accounts, the roof of this mosque is 
grander than that of Mesjid el-Aksa. Furthermore the area of 
this last forms a parallelogram, of which the extent is two hun- 
dred fathoms, and the base one hundred and twenty-four. The 
half of this space — that which is near the Mihrab, is covered by a 
roof (or rather by a dome) of stones, sustained by many rows of 
columns ; the other is open to the sky. In the centre of the edifice 
is a great dome known by the name of the Dome of the Kock. 
Through the care of divers Mohammedan caliphs it was ornamented 
with arabesques in gold, and other beautiful works. Beneath is the 
rock tomb ; this rock is of quadrangular form, like a buckler ; one 
of its extremities is elevated above the ground to the height of 
nearly a half fathom ; the other adheres to the soil ; it is nearly 
cubical, and its width nearly equals its length : that is to say, nearly 
ten cubits (Ziraa). Beneath is a cavern or a dark retreat, of ten 
cubits in length and five in width, and whose height is more than 
a fathom. One cannot penetrate its darkness but by the light of 
torches ; the dome is pierced by four doors ; facing that which is on 
the west one -sees the altar on which the children of Israel offered 
their sacrifices ; near the eastern door is the church called the Holy 
of Holies, of an elegant construction ; on the south is a chapel 
which was used by the Mohammedans ; but the Christians have 
seized upon it, and it has remained in their power until the epoch 
of the stipulation of the present work. They have converted this 



366 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Account of Jerusalem by a Mussulman. 

chapel into a convent, where the monks of the order of the Templars 
reside — that is to say, the officers of the House of God. Finally, 
the northern door is situated opposite a garden, well planted with 
divers species of trees, and surrounded by columns of marble, sculp- 
tured with much taste ; at the end of the garden is a refectory for 
the priests and for those who are destined to enter the orders. 

"In seeking for the place of worship, and directing your steps 
towards the east, you arrive at the door of Mercy, closed as we have 
said, but near to which is another door, through which one can come 
in and go out, and which is called Bab el-Asbat (or the Tribes of 
Israel). At the distance of a bow-shot from the latter is a very 
large and beautiful church, dedicated to St. Mary and known by 
the name of Gethsemane ; here is the tomb of the Virgin in sight 
of the Mount of Olives, distant from Bab el-Asbat about a mile. 
On the road by which one ascends this mountain, one sees another 
church, large and solidly built, which is called the Church of Pater 
Noster ; on the summit of the mountain is a large church, where 
men and women live confined, thus awaiting the divine reward ; at 
the south-east of the mountain is the tomb of Lazarus, who was 
raised to life by the Lord Messiah ; and at two miles from the 
Mount of Olives is the village from whence the ass was taken which 
served to bear our Lord on his entrance into Jerusalem ; this village 
is actually deserted and ruined. 

" In seeking for the gate of Zion, you find at the distance of a 
stone's throw, the Church of Zion, a beautiful and strong church, 
where one finds the room in which our Lord ate with his disciples — 
thus that table still subsisting, and one can visit it on a Thursday. 
From the Gate of Zion one descends into a ditch known under the 
name of the Valley of Gehennah, near to which is the Church of 
St. Peter. From this valley is the source of Silwan (Siloam), 
wnere the Lord Messiah gave sight to the blind man who could never 
otherwise have enjoyed the light of day. At the south of this source 
is the field which was assigned by the Messiah for the burial of 
strangers. Not far from there are great numbers of houses cut in 
the rock, and inhabited by some pious cenobites." 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



367 



Notices by Rabbi Benjamin of Tudela. 



NOTICES BY RABBI BENJAMIN OF TUDELA, 1160-1173. 
(About the period of King Baldwin's death.) 

" Jerusalem lias four gates, called the gates of Abraham,* David, 
Sion, and Jehosaphat. The latter stands opposite the place of the 
Holy Temple, which is occupied at present by a building called 
Templo Domino. At Jerusalem you also see the stables erected by 
Solomon, f and which formed part of his house. Immense stones 
have been employed in this fabric, the like of which are nowhere 
else to be met with. If you leave the city by the Gate of Jehosa- 
phat, you may see the pillar erected on Absalom's place, and the 
sepulchre of King Uzziah, and the great spring of Shiloah, which 
runs into the brook Kedron. Over this spring is a large building, 
erected in the times of our forefathers. Very little water is found 
at Jerusalem : the inhabitants generally drink rain-water, but the 
country about Bethlehem abounds with rivulets, wells, and springs 
of water, which they collect in their houses. The dyeing house is 
rented by the year, and the exclusive privilege of dyeing is purchased 
from the king by the Jews of Jerusalem, two hundred of whom dwell 
in one corner of the city, under the Tower of David. There are 
two hospitals that support four hundred knights, and afford shelter 
to the sick : these are provided with everything they may want, 
both during life and in death : the second is called the Hospital of 
Solomon — being the place originally built by King Solomon. This 
hospital also harbors and furnishes four hundred knights. On 
Mount Sion are the sepulchres of the house of David, and those of 
the kings who reigned after him." 

For the marvelous story related by the Rabbi, concerning the 
Tomb of David, see Neby Daild. 



* Damascus Gate must thus be called by f The substructions of the south-east corner 
the Rabbins ; the Golden Gate or St. Ste- of the Temple area, 
phen's being doubtless the Jehosaphat 



368 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Norman Chronicler. 



An Account of Jerusalem during its occupancy by the Franks; 
about the period of their expulsion by Saladin, at the close of the 
11th century. 

DESCRIPTION OF JERUSALEM BY A NORMAN CHRONICLER. 

" I. In what condition Jerusalem and its holy places remain at this 
day. — Because most of good Christians spoke, and were honored in 
speaking voluntarily of the holy city of Jerusalem, and its holy 
places, where Jesus Christ lived and died; we will speak as it was 
in the day when Saladin and the Saracens conquered it from the 
Christians. Any can, who wish to hear ; those whom it displeases 
will trespass here. 

" There were in the city of Jerusalem four main gates of the cross, 
the one at the right of the other, between the posterns. Now 
you will name them as they will be. The Gate of David was towards 
the setting sun and was at the right of the (Obres) gates, which 
were towards the eastern sun from behind the Temple of the Lord. 
This gate was near or contiguous to the Gate of David. When one 
was before this gate one turned to the right hand in a street before 
the Tower of David. One could go to Mount Zion through a 
postern which was there in this street at the left hand. Thus as 
one went out from the postern was a Monastery of St. James (de 
Galica), whose brother was St. John the Evangelist. The reason 
the monastery was built, was because it was said that St. James had 
the true copy. The great street went straight from the Tower of 
David to the (Obres) gates. It was called the David street until it 
turned to the left hand. By the Tower of David was a large place 
where wheat was sold. And when one had gone down this street a 
little which was called the street of David, one found a street at the 
left hand which was called the street of the Patriarch, because the 
Patriarch lived at the head of this street. The Patriarch had a 
gate there where one entered in the house of the hospital. Next 
was a gate through which one entered the Monastery of the Sepul- 
chre, but was not (mie la mistre) the main one. When one came 



JERUSALEM — AS I T W A S. 369 
Norman Chronicler. 

to the bank, where the street of David ended, one found a street 
which was named the street of Mount Zion. And at the end of the 
bank one found a street covered by vaults, which was called the 
street of Herbs ; there were sold all the herbs and all the fruits and 
spices of the city. At the head of this street was a place where 
fish was sold. And there was a large place at the left hand where 
cheese, poultry, and eggs were sold. At the right hand of this 
market were the goldsmiths (lie' as suries) Roman weight. And 
there the palms were sold, that the palm bearer brought from beyond 
the sea. At the right hand of this market were the shops of the 
Latin goldsmiths. At the head of the shops was a convent of nuns, 
which was called St. Mary the Great. Next to this convent of nuns 
one found a convent of black monks which was called St. Mary the 
Latin. Next, at the right hand, one found the House of the 
Hospital. 

" II. Of the same. — At the right of the hospital was the maio 
door of the Sepulchre. Before this door of the Sepulchre was a very 
pretty place paved with marble. At the right hand of this Sepulchre 
was a monastery which was called St. James of the Jacobins. At 
the right hand, before this door of the Sepulchre, was a flight of 
steps by which one went up to Mount Calvary. There underneath 
the mount was a very pretty chapel, and there was one other door 
in this chapel by which one entered the monastery of the Sepulchre, 
and there descended by other stairs which were there. Thus one 
entered the monastery beneath Mount Calvary which was Golgotha ; 
at the right hand were the cloisters of the Sepulchre and a chapel 
which was called Holy Trinity. This chapel was most grand, for 
there all the ladies of the city were married, and there was the 
fount where all the children of the city were baptized. This chapel 
was ?ontiguous to the Sepulchre, and had a door through which one 
entered the monastery : at the right of this door was the tomb. At 
the right of the tomb were the monasteries, circular and open above 
and without covering. And within this tomb was the stone of the 
Sepulchre, and the tomb has a vaulted roof (au chavech) : this tomb, 
24 



370 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Norman Chronicler. 

thus at the head of the altar from without, which was called (Chavec). 
There thej daily chanted at dawn. There was a beautiful place all 
around the tomb, all paved, and they went in procession all around 
the tomb. Next, toward the east was the choir of the Sepulchre, 
there where the chanters chanted ; it was long. Between the 
choir, there where the chanters chanted, and the tomb, was an altar 
where the Greeks chanted. There was one other enclosure, between 
two ; there was one through which one went from the one to the 
other. And in the middle of the choir of the chanters was a letter 
of marble which was called the Compass (lassus list) in the epistle . . . 
At the right hand of the main altar of this choir was Mount Calvary, 
[f which when they chanted the mass of the Resurrection, the dea- 
cons when they chanted the gospel, turned towards Mount Calvary 
when they said Crucifixion. Afterwards they turned towards the 
comb when they said (resurrexit, non est hie), if rightly shown : 
'Ecce locus ubi posuerunt eum :' and then they returned to the 
book which declared the glad tidings. At the head of the choir 
was a door through which the chanters entered into their offices at 
the right hand. Between this door and Mount Calvary was a very 
deep ditch to which one descended by steps. There was a place 
which was called St. Helena. There St. Helena found the cross, 
the nails, the hammer, and the crown. In this ditch, in the time 
that Jesus Christ was on earth, the bodies of the thieves were buried 
when they were hung and were crucified. And when one clenched 
hands on oath, and did justice, it was done on Mount Calvary. 
When one did justice and taught the law, and there dwelt the mem- 
bers that they judged to speak to the malefactors. All thus that 
the chanters were of the sepulchre ; at the left hand were their 
dormitories, at the left their refectories, and contiguous to Mount 
Calvary. Between these two offices were their cloisters and their 
open spaces. In a place of the (peel) was a large opening, through 
which one saw into the chamber of Helena, for otherwise one saw 
not to eat (on goute). 

" III. Of the same. — The banks were contiguous to the street of 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 371 
Norman Chronicler. 

Herbs, which was called (Malquismat). In this street meat for the 
pilgrims was cooked, which was sold ; and here (chier) was washed. 
And one went from the street to the sepulchre. All before this 
street (of Malquismat) was a street which was called the covered 
street, there where clothes were sold ; and was all covered above. 
And through this street one went to the Sepulchre. This street, 
which went from the bank to the (Oires) door, was named the 
street of the Temple ; for this one called it the door of the Temple, 
which came thus to the Temple — that to the Oires. At the left hand, 
as one descended this street to go to the Temple, there was the 
butchery, where was sold the (char) of the butchery to those of the 
city. At the right hand was another street through which one went 
to the hospital. This street was called the German street. At the 
left hand on the bridge was the Monastery of St. Gile. At the 
head of this street was found a door, which was called the precious 
door : Jesus Christ through this gate entered into the city when he 
was on earth. This gate was in a wall which was between the city 
and the Oires gates. 

« IV. Of the same. — Between the wall of the city and the wall 
of the gates (Oires) was the Temple. And there was there a large 
place which was most of a tract of land, and a < stone's throw' from 
there, thus as it comes to the Temple. This place, it was paved 
which, one called this place the pavement. At the right hand, as 
one issued from this gate, was Solomon's Temple, there where the 
brothers of the Temple lived. At the right of the precious gates, 
and of the gates Oires, were the Monasteries of the Temple of the 
Lord. And it was above as one ascended by high steps. And 
when one ascended these steps, one found a large ditch ; and this 
pavement went all around the Monastery of the Temple. The 
Monasteries of the Temple were all round. And at the left hand 
of the raised platform of the Temple were the offices of the Abbey 
and of the chanters. And from this portion were steps by which 
one ascended to the Temple from the bass pavement to the upper. 
Towards the eastern sun, contiguous to the Monastery of the Tem- 



372 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Norman Chronicler. 

pie, was a chapel of Monseigneur St. James the Apostle, the Less ; 
because it was when in this chapel that he was there martyred, when 
the Jews lived there on the Temple securely. Within this chapel 
was the place where Jesus Christ delivered the offendress, who was 
taken to be martyred because she was taken in adultery. At the 
head of this pavement, towards the eastern sun, one descended by 
some steps to go to the gates (Oires). When one had descended, 
one found there a large place, thus as one came to the gates : there 
was the other which Solomon built. Through these gates one could 
not pass, being walled ; and one could not pass but twice during the 
year when they were unwalled : and they went in procession the 
day of Palm Sunday, because that Jesus Christ passed there on 
this day, and was protected by a procession ; and the day of the 
feast of the holy cross in Steuben, for through these gates was car- 
ried the cross into Jerusalem, when the Roman Emperor Heraclius 
conquered it from Persia, and through this door recovered it into 
the city, and these in procession against it. Because that one went 
from out the city through these gates, there was a postern (par 
encoste), which was called the Gate of Jehosaphat. Through this 
postern, those of the city went out from this part. And this pos 
tern was at the left hand of the gates Oires, towards the west. 
There one descended from the upper pavement to the lower Temple, 
from which one went to the Temple of Solomon. At the left hand, 
as one went from the upper pavement to the lower, there was a 
monastery which was called La Bicts. There was the cradle in 
which God was rocked in his infancy, as has been said. Where was 
the Monastery of the Temple were four gates of the cross ; the 
first was towards the setting sun : through this, those of the city 
entered into the Temple, and through that towards the eastern sun 
one entered into the chapel and (enrissat on ileaque) to the gates 
(Oires). Through the gate towards the west, one entered into the 
Temple of Solomon, and through the gate toward the north one 
entered into the Abbey. 

" V. Of the same. — Now you have been told of the Temple and of 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 373 
Norman Chronicler. 

the Sepulchre as they are, and of the hospital, and of the streets 
which were from the Gate of David, from this to the gates (oires), 
the one at the right of the other. That towards the north was called 
the Gate of St. Estiene (St. Steven). Through this gate all the pil- 
grims entered, and all those who from towards Acre came to Jerusalem, 
and from all the land from the river until the Sea of Ascalon. From 
without this gate, thus as one entered it, at the right hand, was a 
monastery of Monseigneur St. Estiene, who was stoned to death. 
Before this monastery, at the left hand, was a large house, which 
was called the stable ; there slept the asses, and there were kept the 
saddles of the hospital, which was the cause of its being named the 
stable. This Monastery of St. Estiene the Christians of Jerusalem 
built before they were besieged, for this that the monastery was 
near the wall. The stable was not built thus, was then grand 
master of the pilgrims, who by (truce ?) came to Jerusalem when the 
Saracens had it, and when the Saracens left not a gatherer of 
herbs within the city, because that the house of the stable was grand 
master. At the right hand of the gate of Jerusalem, contiguous to 
the wall, before the lazaretto, was a postern which was called the 
Postern of St. Ladre. When the Saracens had conquered the 
city from the Christians, through there they put the Christians for 
to go secretly to the Sepulchre. For the Saracens wished not that 
the Christians (veissent la convine) of the city ; for this they put 
them through the door of the Patriarch, which was in the street of 
the monastery of the Sepulchre, one did not put them through the 
main door. But know well to see that the Christian pilgrims who 
wish to go to the Sepulchre, and to other holy places, that the Sa- 
racens had great (treis), and great (leviers), and great services. The 
Saracen took them (well chascun arc XX m besans). But in esco- 
menia after all the Christians who lodged gave them, by which they 
came down much. When one entered into the city through the 
Gate of St. Estiene, one found two streets, the one to the right and 
the other to the left, which went to the Gate of Mount Zion, which 
was right west. And the Gate of the Mount, it was at the right, 



374 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Norman Chronicler. 

went to a postern which was called the tannery, and went right 
beneath the bridge. This street, which went to the Gate of Mount 
Zion, was called the street of St. Estiene. From this which came 
to the banks of the Syrians was at the right hand, which was called 
the street of the Sepulchre ; there was the gate of the house of the 
Sepulchre ; through these those of the Sepulchre entered to their 
houses and to their families. When one came before this bank, 
there turned to the right a street covered with vaults, through 
which one went to the Monastery of the Sepulchre. In this street 
the Syrians sold their clothes and made their wax candles. Before 
this bank, fish was sold. Contiguous to this bank were the three 
streets which were contiguous to the other banks of the Latins. 
Of which the one of these three streets was named the Covered 
Street. There the Latins sold their clothes ; and the other street 
of the herbs and the third Malquismat. Through the street of 
herbs one went to the street of Mount Zion, from which one went 
to the Gate of Mount Zion and very (capoit) is the street of David. 
Through the covered street one went in a street by the bank of the 
Latins ; this street was called the Street of the Arch of Judas, 
because it was said that Judas hung himself there ; there was there 
an arch of stone. At the left hand of this street was a Monastery 
of St. Martin. And near this gate was a Monastery of St. Peter. 
There it was said that Jesus Christ made the mixture which he put 
in the eyes of those who had bad sight. Out of the Gate of Mount 
Zion one found three ways : one way to the right hand, which went 
to the Abbey and to the Monastery of Mount Zion. And between 
the Abbey and the wall of the city was a great gathering place, and 
a monastery in the middle of the way ; at the left hand it went 
along the wall of the city right to the gates (oires), and from there 
descended to the Valley of Jehosaphat and if one went to the foun- 
tain of Siloam. And by this gate, at the right hand, on this road, 
was a Monastery of St. Peter in (Galiciente). In such a monastery 
was a ditch there where one said that St. Peter lamented himself 
when he denied Jesus Christ, and he heard the cock crow and then 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



375 



Norman Chronicler. 

he wept. The way at the right of this door towards the west, if 
one went over the mount on which one could pass if one descended 
the mount and went through this door to Bethlehem. 

" VI. Of the same. — When one had descended the mount, one 
found a lake in the valley which was called the Lake of the Ger- 
mans, that the Germans made to collect the water which descended 
from the mountain when it rained, and there watered the horses 
from the city. From another part of the valley at the left hand, 
near from below was a charnel-house, w T hich was called Aceldamah. 
There they buried the pilgrims who died at the Hospital of Jeru- 
salem. This valley where were some charnel-houses w T here was 
bought some silver with which Judas sold his dear Lord, as the 
Evangelist testifies. Outside the gate was a lake towards the setting 
sun, which was called the Lake of the Patriarch, there where they 
collected the water of (iluec) all around to water the horses. Near 
this lake was a charnel-house which was called the Charnel-House 
of the Lion. It became already, as was said, had one day which 
was passed, that it had between the Christians and the Saracens a 
battle, between this charnel-house and Jerusalem, where most of the 
Christians were killed, and that the Saracens of the battle became 
all to make next day (ordoir pour la puror). Such as it came that 
a lion came by night and carried them all in this ditch if it is as 
reported : for this they called it the Charnel-House of the Lion, 
and above this charnel-house was a monastery, where they chanted 
every day at (ileques). At one place was a convent of nuns, there 
where they said was collected one of the pieces of the true cross. 

" VII. Of the same. — Now returning to the door of St. Estiene, 
to the street which went to the left hand which went to the Gate of 
the Tannery. When one had gone a great piece of this street, to 
the left hand whicii was called the street of Jehosaphat ; quant (en 
avoit pou ale* avant), one found a square oven of a way of which the 
way which came towards the left to the Temple and went to the 
Sepulchre. At the head of this way was a door towards the Temple, 
which was called the Doleful Door. At the right hand, on the 



376 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Norman Chronicler. 

(carfor) of this way, was the (ruisians), of which the Evangelist testi- 
fies, bj which he says that our Lord should pass, when he was taken 
to be crucified. At the right was a Monastery of St. John the 
Evangelist, and there was there a great house. This house and 
monastery were of nuns of Bethany ; there they lived when there 
was war with the Saracens. Now to return to the street of Jehosa- 
phat. Between the street of Jehosaphat and the wall of the city, 
at the left hand, was a street thus, as (a a vile). There lived the 
most of those from Jerusalem, and this street was called (La Merie). 
In such a (Merie) was a Monastery of St. Mary Magdalen, and near 
to the monastery was a gate. One could not issue from out to the 
(chans), but between the wall one went. At the right hand of this 
street of Jehosaphat was a monastery which was called the (Repons). 
There it is said that Jesus rested himself when they took him to 
crucify him, and there was the prison where he was placed the night 
he was taken in Gethsemane. A little before in this street, was 
east, the Pilate house. At the left hand, before this house was a 
door through which one went to the Temple. 

"Near the door of Jehosaphat, at the left hand, was a convent of 
nuns which was called St. Anne. Opposite this convent was a foun- 
tain which, was called the fountain below the pool. This fountain 
{ne quert 'point, ains estoit desure !) 

" In this fountain, in the time of Jesus, the angels descended and 
moved the waters, and the first sick persons who descended in it 
were healed of their diseases. This fountain had porches where 
the sick ate, as is said. From the door of Jehosaphat one descended 
into the Valley of Jehosaphat. There was a convent of black 
monks. In this convent was a monastery of St. Mary. In this 
monastery was the grave where she was buried. The Saracens, 
when they had taken the city, pulled down this (fonvent and carried 
the stones of it to the shut city, but the monastery they did not pull 
down. Opposite this monastery, at the foot of Mount Olivet, was 
a monastery in a rock which was called Gethsemane. There was 
Jesus Christ taken. At the other part of the way as one ascends 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



377 



Sir John Maundeville. 

Mount Olivet, as nmcli as one would throw a stone, was a monas- 
tery which was called St. Saviour. There Jesus went at twilight, 
the night he was taken, and there the sweat of his body was as 
blood. In the valley of Jehosaphat were recluses and (velaes), and 
was all fortified, and I know not to name it but by Siloam. And 
on the Mount of Olives was a convent of white monks. Near this 
convent, at the right hand, was a road which went to Bethany, all 
the side of the mountain. On the turn of this road was a monas- 
tery which was called St. Paternoster. There it was said Jesus 
Christ made the Paternoster and taught it to his Apostles. Near 
there was the fig-tree which the Deity reprobated when he went 
to Jerusalem between the monastery which was called Belfage. 
There came Jesus the day of Palm Sunday and the (joi) sent him 
the ass. Now you have been told the convents and monasteries of 
Jerusalem, without Jerusalem and within, and the streets of the 
Latins. But I have not named the convents and monasteries of 
the Syrians, nor of the Greeks, nor of the Jacobins, nor of the 
Boanins, nor of the Nestorians, nor of the Hermits, nor of the other 
manners of the people who were subservient to Rome of which 
there were monasteries and convents in the city ; for this you have 
not (veil mie) to speak of all these people that I name here who 
were (mie) subservient to Rome as one has said." 

Jerusalem again under Moslem Domination. 

SIR JOHN MAUNDEVILLE, A. D. 1322, 1356. 

" Before the Church of the Sepulchre the city is weaker than in 
any other part, for the great plain that is between the church and 
the city. And towards the east side, without the walls of the city, 
is the vale of Jehosaphat which adjoins to the walls as though it 
were a large ditch. And over against the vale of Jehosaphat, out 
of the city, is the Church of St. Stephen, where he was stoned to 
death. And then beside is the golden gate which may not be opened, 
by which gate our Lord entered on Palm Sunday, upon an ass ; and 
the gate opened to him when he would go unto the Temple ; and 



378 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Mesjid el-Aksa. 

the marks of the ass's feet are still seen in three places on the steps 
which are of very hard stone. Before the Church of St. Sepulchre, 
two hundred paces to the south, is the great Hospital of St. John, 
of which the Hospitallers had their foundation. And within the 
palace of the sick men of that hospital are one hundred and twenty- 
four pillars of stone ; and in the walls of the house, besides the 
number aforesaid, there are fifty-four pillars that support the house. 
From that hospital, going towards the east, is a very fair church 
which is called Our Lady the Great, and after it there is another 
church very near, called Our Lady the Latin ; and there stood Mary 
Cleophas and Mary Magdalene, and tore their hair when our Lord 
was executed on the cross." 

Description of Jerusalem. {About the time that it passed from the 
sway of the Sultan of Egypt into the hands of the Ottomans.) 
Extracted from " The Sublime Companion to the History of Jeru- 
salem and Hebron. By Kadi Mejr-ed-din, Ebin-yemen, Abd-er- 
Rahrnan, El-Alemi." A. D. 1495. Translated by Von Hammer ; 
with corrections from an original Arabic MS. in the British 
Museum. By Geo. Williams, B. D. ( With a few immaterial 
omissions.) 

CHAP. XX. DESCRIPTION OF THE MESJID EL-AKSA. 

§ i. Mesjid el-Aksa is the name given to the body of the Mosk, 
which extends from south to north, with a lofty dome adorned with 
mosaics, under which is the Mihrab and the Minbar. It is divided 
into seven compartments (Akwar), supported by columns and piers, 
of which are forty-five columns, thirty-three of marble, twelve of 
stone. The thirteenth column is towards the eastern gate, near the 
Mihrab of Zachariah. There are m all forty piers of stone. The 
roof, which is of great elevation, is of wood. In the middle of its 
southern part is the dome, on the sides of which are two compart- 
ments. The four others are arranged two on the east and two on 
the west side. The other half of the roof is of stone and mortar. 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 379 
Mosk of Omar. Porch of Ezra, &c. 

That which is of wood is leaded without. One part of the Mosk 
on the south and east is lined with marbles of different colors. 

The great Mihrab on the east side of the Minbar is said to be 
the Mihrab of David. Others say that his is the Mihrab outside 
the Jamia on the south wall, to the east, near the place called the 
Cradle of Jesus. I have spoken before of the Mihrab of David at 
the Castle. For his residence was there, as was his oratory. 

When Omar came to Jerusalem he followed his (David's) exam- 
ple, praying in the same place, which was also called the Mihrab of 
Omar, because there he first prayed on the day of the conquest of 
Jerusalem. But it was originally the Mihrab of David. In con- 
firmation of this is the tradition of Omar demanding of Kaab, 
" Where shall we establish our oratory ?" The small Mihrab on 
the west side of the Minbar, surrounded with an iron fence, is called 
the Mihrab of Moaviah. 

§ ii. Dimensions. — The length from the great Mihrab to the oppo- 
site gate is 100 common Ziraas,* exclusive both of the apse of the 
Mihrab and of the portico without the northern gate. The width 
from the eastern gate, leading towards the Cradle of Jesus, to the 
western gate, is 77 common Ziraas. 

On the east is a Mosk, built wholly of stone, called the Mosk of 
Omar, because this building is one of the remaining buildings of 
Omar ; and the Mihrab in this place is called the Mihrab of Omar, 
viz. that which is near the Minbar opposite to the great north door, 
as lately described. 

On the north of the Mosk of Omar is a porch, called the Porch 
of 'Ozair (i, e. Ezra), from which a door leads into the Mosk of 
Omar, and near this porch is another where is the Mihrab of Zacha- 
riah, near the eastern gate. Within the Mosk on the west is a large 
building divided into two compartments, running east and west, 
called the Mosk of the Women. It has ten arches supported by 
nine piers, very well built, erected, it is said, by the Fatimites. 



* This measure is probably the Constantinople Drah or Pik = 
lem Drah is four or five inches shorter. 



thirty inches. The Jerusa- 



380 CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 

Mesjid el-Aksa. 

Within the Mosk (Jamia) behind the Kibla, is the Corner of the 
Circumcision. This oratory is surrounded with an iron fence, and 
adjoins the Minbar. Near the Circumcision Corner, on the west 
side, is the Dar-el-khotabut [the place where the Khotba, or prayer 
for the reigning sovereign, is offered]. The Minbar is of wood, 
inlaid with ivory and ebony, constructed by the Sultan Melik el- 
Aadel Nureddin es-Shahid, at Aleppo, in the year 564 (A. D. 1186), 
and thence conveyed to Jerusalem by Saladin after his conquest, 
according to the intentions of Nureddin, which were thus accom- 
plished after his death. The date of its construction is inscribed 
upon it. Opposite the Minbar is the gallery (dikkah) of the Muez- 
zins, formed of beautiful marble. 

This Mosk has ten gates of entrance. Seven on the north, one 
opening into each of its seven compartments. Outside these gates 
are seven porches raised on seven arches opposite these gates. 
They have fourteen marble columns built into the piers. The east- 
ern gate leads to the Cradle of Jesus ; another is opposite to this, 
on the west side, and the tenth is that which leads to the Women's 
Mosk. 

§ iii. The Well of the Leaf. — This is within the Mosk at the side 
of the great gate. There are various traditions concerning this 
Well, one of which is reported by Abu-Bekr, Ibn-Miryam, and by 
Attye, Ibn-Kaisi. According to him, the Prophet said, " One of 
my people shall enter into Paradise walking, while yet alive." It 
happened in the time of Omar that some persons came to Jerusalem 
to pray. A man of the tribe of the Beni-Temim, named Sherik 
Ibn-Habasha, went to bring water for his companions, and his bucket 
fell into the well. He went down to recover it, and found a door in 
the well which led to gardens. He entered the door to the gardens, 
and walked in the gardens, and took a leaf from their trees, which 
he placed behind his ear. He returned by the well, came to the 
governor, and reported what he had found in the gardens, and about 
his entering them. He sent some men with him to the well, who 
descended with him, but they did not find any door, nor arrive at 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



381 



Mesjid el-Aksa. 

the gardens. And he wrote to Omar, who answered, that the tra- 
dition of the Prophet concerning the man that should enter Paradise 
alive, was true ; but it should be ascertained whether the leaf was 
fresh or dry ; for if it had changed color it could not be from Paradise, 
where nothing changes. The tradition adds, that it had not changed. 
It is said, that the well is that which is in the Mesjid el-Aksa, on 
the left as you enter the Jamia. On the south-east is a great maga- 
zine called the Magazine of the Joiners, in which are kept the 
utensils for the Mosk. It was probably constructed by the Fatimites. 
There is a second mouth to the Well of the Leaf. 

The second Mihrab of David is without the Jamia, but within the 
Mesjid, on the southern wall, on the east side — a great Mihrab cele- 
brated among the people as the Mihrab of David, near the Cradle 
of Jesus. 

§ iv. The Mart of Science. — At the eastern end of the Mosk, 
towards the second Mihrab of David, is a place with a Mihrab, 
called the Mart of Science. I know not the reason of this name, 
which probably owes its origin to the inventive spirit of the servants 
of the Mosk, to excite the curiosity of the pilgrims. Some histo- 
rians write that the Gate of Repentance was on this side. When 
an Israelite transgressed, his sin was found in the morning written 
on the door of his house, then he went to this place to repent and 
beseech God. The sign of his pardon was the disappearance of the 
writing ; and so long as it was not obliterated he dared not approach 
any one. This place was assigned as an Oratory to the Hanbelites, 
by the Sultan Isa, son of Abu-Bekr, of the family of Eyub, Lord 
of Damascus. 

§ v. The Cradle of Jesus. — This is a subterranean Oratory near 
the Mart of Science. It is said that Miryam, the mother of Jesus, 
prayed here. To pray here with success one must recite the Surat 
Miryam, and pray like Omar, who recited the Surat Sad at the 
Mihrab of David. They recite also here the prayer of Jesus, when 
he was received into heaven from the Mount of Olives. 

§ vi. The Mosk of the Moghrebins. — Outside the Jamia, to the 



382 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Es-Sakhrah. Holy Cave. 

west, in the front of the Mesjid, is the building called the Mosk of 
the Moghrebins, where the Malekites pray. This building was 
apparently first erected by Omar Ibn-Khatab, on whom be the peace 
of God ! For, according to the tradition of Shedad, when Omar 
had entered the Mesjid el-Aksa he went to its west front, bearing 
in his dress the filth that he had taken from the Sakhrah. We 
carried it, says Shedad, like him, and came to the Valley Jehennom. 
Thence he returned, and we with him, until we stopped to pray 
with him in a place where the people prayed. The same Shedad 
reports that Omar, on the day of the conquest, went towards a place 
on the west side, saying, Let us here establish a Mosk : and this 
Jamia is in the west face of the Mesjid. Possibly the building was 
constructed by Omar, or the Ommiades left it behind them. It 
extends from east to west in the Mesjid. 

§ vii. The Rock Es- Sakhrah. — This rock is in the middle of the 
Mesjid, on a raised platform, covered with a beautiful building. It 
is a Dome rising 50 common architectural Ziraas above the platform, 
which is itself elevated 7 Ziraas from the ground ; so that the total 
elevation of the Dome above the ground is 58 Ziraas. The Dome 
is supported by columns of marble, and piers very well built. It 
has twelve columns of marble and four piers. The rock itself is 
surrounded w T ith a wooden rail, and the columns and piers which 
carry the Dome are surrounded with an iron fence. The Dome is 
covered with a roof of gilded wood, supported by sixteen columns 
and eight piers. The pavement and walls below the Dome are of 
marble within and without. It is ornamented above, both within 
and without, with variegated stones, and the building which sur- 
rounds the Dome is octangular. The interior circumference is 224 
Ziraas, the exterior 240, by the ordinary Ziraa. 

§ viii. The Sacred Footprint. — It is on a stone detached from the 
rock on the south-west, and is on marble pillars. 

§ ix. The Cave. — Beneath the rock is a Cave on the south, to 
which is a descent by stone steps. The steps are interrupted in the 
middle by a small bench excavated in the rock on the east side, 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 383 
Marvelous tradition of the Es-Sakhrah. , 

where the pilgrims rest. Here is a marble column, the base of 
which stands on this bench, joined on the south to the side of the 
Cave ; the capital supports the side of the Sakhrah, as if to pre- 
vent it from leaning towards the south side, or in any other way. 

This cave is one of the most sacred places on earth. The 
author of Messir-el-ghoram says that he found, in the Commentary 
on the work Muta (a collection of traditions of the Imam Malek), on 
that verse in the Koran, " We sent water from heaven" — that all the 
water on earth comes from under the Sakhrah ; which is a marvel, 
because being itself without support on any side, it is supported only 
by Him who supports the heavens, which can only fall upon the 
earth by his permission. 

On the south side is the footprint of the prophet, which was there 
impressed when he mounted the celestial beast Borak, for the noc- 
turnal journey : which occasioned the rock to incline on this side 
out of respect. On the other side you see the prints of the fingers of 
the angels who supported the rock while it bowed. Beneath the rock 
is a cave in which prayers are heard at all events. When I would 
enter there (continues the author of Messir-el-ghoram), I feared that 
it would sink down under the burden of my sins ; but having seen 
that sinners covered with all kinds of iniquity entered and came 
out safe and sound, I took courage to enter ; I still hesitated, how- 
ever ; at last I entered, and was astounded to see the rock detached 
on all sides, and not joined to the earth. So writes the author of 
Messir-el-ghoram ; but, adds our author, it is a well-known fact 
among men, that this rock is suspended between heaven and earth. 
It is said that it remained so suspended until a pregnant woman, 
when she had entered under the rock, being terrified with this 
appearance, miscarried there. Then it was surrounded with the 
present building, to conceal the terrific marvels of the place. Ibn 
el-Arabi relates in his work that he came to the East, A. H. 485 
(A. D. 1107), — which is the time of his arrival at Jerusalem, and 
that then the rock was already surrounded with a rotunda. God 
best knows how this is ! The Dome and the rotunda which encir- 



384 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Mesjicl el-Aksa. 

cle it have a double roof, of which the lower is of gilded timber, 
and the upper covered with lead, and there is a considerable space 
between the two. The building has four gates towards the Cardinal 
points. That on the south leads straight to the Jamia, properly 
called Aksa. On the right side within the Dome is a Mihrab, oppo- 
site the gallery of the Muezzins, on a column of marble of very 
elegant workmanship. The eastern gate leads towards the steps 
of Borak, opposite the Borne of the Chain. This eastern gate is 
called the Gate of Israfil (the angel of death). The northern gate 
is called the Gate of Paradise. There is seen the black pavement, 
of which I have spoken elsewhere. The western gate is opposite 
to that which is called the Cotton Merchants'. 

§ x. The Dome of the Chain. — This dome is very beautiful : I 
have spoken of it among the buildings of Abd-el-Melik Ibn-Merwan. 
It served as a model for that of the Sakhrah, and stands between 
the eastern gate and the steps of Borak ; supported by seventeen 
marble columns, exclusive of those of the Mihrab. Tradition says, 
that the prophet on his nocturnal journey saw the Houris in this 
place. The platform round the Dome of the rock is square ; so, 
however, that it is somewhat longer from south to north than from 
east to west, as will appear when we speak of its dimensions, please 
God. 

Before each of the gates of the Sakhrah are columns supporting 
the prominent part of the roof (porches) ; the platform is paved 
with white marble. From whatever quarter you approach there are 
stone stairs, the heads of which are surmounted by arches raised on 
columns. Two of these stairs are on the south side ; one of which is 
opposite to the great gate of the Mosk, commonly called el-Aksa. 
At the top of these stairs is a marble Minbar and near it a Mihrab, 
where prayer is made on festivals and in times of drought. This 
Minbar it is said was erected by the Judge of the judges, Burhan- 
ed-din Ibn Jema. . . At first it was built hastily only in wood. The 
second of these stairs leads towards the Dome of the Roll, which is 
towards the Mount of Olives. It faces the wall of the Mosk el- 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 385 
Moslem Traditions. 

Aksa. The stairs on the east are called the steps of Borak, and 
lead to the olives planted from the east side of the Mosk to the 
Grate of Mercy. Two other stairs are on the north, one opposite to 
the Gate Hitta, the other opposite to the Gate of the Dewatar. On 
the west side there are three stairs, one opposite to the Gate of the 
Inspector (Bab-en-Nazir), the second opposite the Gate of the Cot- 
ton Merchants (Katanin), the third opposite the Gate of the Chain 
(Bab-es-Salsala). This last was made in our times, in the year 877 
( A. D. 1499). Near these stairs is the Dome called the Gramma- 
rians', constructed by the great Melik Isa. 

§ xi. The Dome of the Prophet's Ascension. — On the right of the 
Rock, on the west of the platform, rises the Dome of the Ascension, 
much visited by pilgrims, built by the Amir Isfehsalan Az-ed-din, 
son of Amru Osman, Governor of Jerusalem, A. H. 596 (A. D. 
1218). It existed before, but was then repaired. 

§ xii. The Place of the Prophet. — This is said to have been once 
a beautiful little Dome, standing on the platform on the side of the 
Dome of the Ascension ; but when the platform was paved this 
cupola disappeared, and its place was marked by a Mihrab, des- 
cribed in red marble, in the pavement on the side of the Sakhrah, 
which still exists. It is said that this is the place where the prophet 
prayed with the angels and cherubim, on the night of his nocturnal 
journey, and from which he afterwards ascended to heaven. Two 
prints of his feet are to be seen there, one in gold the other in silver, 
marking the spot of the Ascension, which took place on the right 
side of the Sakhrah. [Directions and formula for praying there.] 

§ xiii. The Place of the Prophet El-Khudr (S. George.} — Below 
the platform on the west, towards the Dome of the Prophet, is a 
place called Bakh-bakh [wonderful and beautiful !] which is the 
place of El-Khudr, who prayed there ; it is now abandoned. There 
is beneath the platform, towards the Gate of Iron (Hadid), adjoin- 
ing the stairs which lead to the platform, [a chamber] called the 
Cave of Spirits, which is rarely visited by pilgrims. On the west 
side of the Mesjid are rocks said to be of the time of David. It is 
25 



386 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Mesjid el-Aksa. 

evident that they are natural rocks, rooted in the ground, and never 
removed. 

§ xiv. The Dome of Solomon. — On this side, near the gate of the 
Dewatar, is a Dome solidly built on the natural rock, called the 
Dome of Solomon ; and the rock must be that where he stood to 
pray after having finished the Temple. . . This dome dates from the 
time of the Ommiades. 

§ xv. The Dome of Moses. — The Dome which stands near the 
Gate of the Chain (es-Salsala) is called the Dome of Moses ; but 
this is not Moses the prophet. The true origin of this name is 
unknown. It was built by Melik Saleh Nejem-ed-din Eyub, son 
of Melik el-Kaamel, in the year of his death, i. e. A. H. 647 (A. 
D. 1269). It was formerly called Kubbet-es-Sijret (Dome of the 
Tree). On the west side of the Mesjid are cloisters solidly built, 
running from south to north. The first is near the Gate of the 
Moghrebins (i. e. the Gate of the Prophet), and the last at the 
Gate of the Inspector (Nazir), and beyond [to] near the Gate El- 
Ghuanimi. — All these cloisters were built under the direction of 
Melik Naser Motammed, Ibn Kelaun. Those from the Gate of the 
Moghrebins to that of the Chain (es-Salsala) were built in A. H. 
713 (A. D. 1335), those from the Gate of Nazir to that of Ghua- 
nimi in the year 707 (A. D. 1329). On the area of the Mesjid, 
between these cloisters and the platform of the Court of the Sakhrah, 
there are a number of small elevations for prayer and a great quan- 
tity of trees — as sycamores, figs, and others. The cloisters on the 
north of the area run east and west from the Gate of the Tribes 
(es-Sabat) to the School el-Jawlie*, now called the House of Pre- 
fecture. 9 

As to the cloisters which extend from the Gate of the Tribes to 
the School of Ghader, I cannot speak positively. Most probably 
they were erected at the same time as the neighboring Minaret 
built by Sultan Eshref Ibn Hosein, A. H. 769 (A. D. 1391). The 
cloisters below the School of Ghader were built at the same time as 
were those of the School of Kerim. The cloisters near the Gate 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



387 



Mejir ed-Din. 

of Hitta to that of the Dewatar were built by Melik Efhad, at the 
same time with his sepulchre, which is near the former of these two 
gates ; for they are mentioned in the deed of foundation. As for 
the cloisters commencing at the Gate of the Dewatar, and extending 
to the western wall of the Mesjid, and the five schools outside them — 
the School of Emin and the Persan are ancient. They were repaired 
during the reign of Melik Isa, in the year 610 (A. D. 1232). The 
cloisters beneath the other three schools, viz. that of Esaad and 
Sabib, were built at the same time with these Schools, whose dates 
will be given in the chapter on the Schools. The lower cloisters 
beneath the Prefecture [Es-Seraiyah] were built at the same time 
with the minaret of the Gate El-Ghuanimi ; for the date is pre- 
served in the chronography written above : but the writing has 
become illegible from age, and its height from the ground. The 

two cloisters were built a year after the minaret On the 

east side are many olives, planted in the time of the Greeks, and 
the remains of the ruined cloisters on the side of the Cradle of 
Jesus date from the times of the Ommiades. 

§ xvi. The Dome of the Roll. — This is on the platform of the 
Sakhrah on the south-west. I have been told tha't it is so called 
because one of the ancient kings, on a visit to Jerusalem, having 
ascended the Mount of Olives, threw a roll which fell here ; which 
gave occasion to the building of this Dome and to its name. Men 
have invented diverse accounts of this matter : God only knows 
the truth ! 

§ xvii. Retreat of Kashan. — This is a place near the Dome of 
the Roll, on the side of the platform of the Sakhrah towards the 
south. Sheikh Abd-el-Melik of Mosul here lived as a hermit. Its 
walls are cased with tiles of Kashan, whence it derives its name.-- 

§ xviii. The Cell of Bostam. — Under the platform of the Sakhrah, 
on the east, near the olives, where the poor of Bostam met for 
prayer. The door is now closed. 

§ xix. The Cell of Samed. — Near the Cell of Samed on the north, 
adjoining the Stairs of Borak. The door is now closed, as that of 



388 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Observations in Mesjid el-Aksa. 

the former building. There are in the Mesjid thirty-four wells for 
collecting the rain-water. One of these is that of the Leaf, already 
mentioned (§ 3), in the Jamia. There are seven others on the plat- 
form of the Sakhrah, the remainder in the ground of the area 
around the four sides of the platform. Some have no opening, 
others have as many as three, so that there are more than forty 
mouths to these wells. Some are in ruins, and some stopped. 

§ xx. Dimensions of the Area of the Mesjid. — I took these 
dimensions myself with cords, and found the length — commencing 
from the south wall near the Mihrab of David, to the end of the 
cloisters on the north of the Gate of the Tribes — 669 common 
Ziraas, without reckoning the thickness of the two walls. Should 
any one else find it 2 or 3 Ziraas more or less, it must be ascribed 
to the difficulty of surveying ; for I surveyed it twice myself before 
I obtained the true measure. The width from east to west, com- 
mencing from the eastern wall adjoining the tombs at the Gate of 
Mercy to the end of the western cloisters beneath the School of 
Tunjuz, is 406 common architectural Ziraas, without reckoning the 
thickness of the two walls. 

§ xxi. Observation. — I have at the commencement called atten- 
tion to the fact that the place now called by the name Aksa (z. e. 
the most distant), is the Mosk [Jamia] properly so called, at the 
southern extremity of the area, where is the Minbar and the great 
Mihrab. But in fact Aksa is the name of the whole area enclosed 
within the walls, the dimensions of which I have just given, for the 
Mosk proper [Jamia], the Dome of the Rock, the Cloisters, and 
other buildings, are all of late construction, and Mesjid el-Aksa is 
the correct name of the whole area. 

§ xxii. Dimensions of the Platform of the Sakhrah. — The length 
from the southern wall between the two southern stairs, passing with 
the measure between the eastern door of the Sakhrah and the Dome 
of the Chain, to the northern wall opposite the Gate Hitta, is 253 
Ziraas ; the width from east to west, commencing at the eastern wall 
adjoining the olives, to the western wall opposite to the School of 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS.. 



389 



Mejir ed-Din. 

Eshrif, is 189 common architectural Ziraas. The dimensions of the 
Mosk proper (Jamia), the elevation of the Dome of the Sakhrah, 
and its circumference, have been before indicated (sup. §§ ii. vii). 
If there be an error in the measures, it must be very slight. The 
dimensions here given differ from those which I have given in the 
account of its construction under the reign of Abd-el-Melik Ibn 
Merwan. The reason is, that the measures vary according to the 
usage of the time, though their names remain the same : some who 
have given these measures employ the Ziraa of iron ; others, the 
hand-Ziraa (the length of the arm) — God knows best ! There are 
besides in the area a number of small oratories, &c, the description 
of which would be too long, for he only who has seen this sanctuary 
can form a just idea of it, and all that I have said concerning it is 
only by way of approximation. 

§ xxiii. Tlie Ancient Aksa. — Beneath the Mesjid on the south 
side is a great building, in which are piers supporting the roof, and 
it is under the place of the Minbar and Mihrab. This place is called 
the ancient Aksa, and these are perhaps the remains of Solomon's 
building, as may be judged from their solidity. 

§ xxiv. The Stable of Solomon. — At the side of that, also beneath 
the Mesjid, under where the olives grow, there is a walled place 
called the Stable of Solomon. It runs in under the greatest part 
of the Mesjid, and occupies the subterranean space of most of the 
above-noticed southern localities of the Mesjid. It is probably 
Solomon's building. 

§ xxv. The Minarets-. — In describing the Mosk as it was built in 
the time of Abd-el-melik Ibn-Merwan, we have already spoken of 
the four Minarets, of which three are on the west side of the Mosk, 
the fourth at the Gate of the Tribes. They still exist, but it is plain 
that they have been repaired and rebuilt in more modern times, on 
the old foundations. The first Minaret, and most beautiful, is at 
the south-west near the School of Fakhr, against the back of which 
it rests. It was perhaps built by the founder of that school ; but 
God knows best ! The second is at the Gate of the Chain, served 



390 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Minarets. Muezzin Cry. Gates, &c. 

by the most eminent Muezzins : it gives the direction to the other 
Minarets, which follow it in announcing prayer. I have been 
informed that it was erected by Tunjuz, prefect of Syria, when he 
built the celebrated school at the side of the Gate of the Chain. 
The third Minaret is at the north-west extremity of the Mesjid. 
It is the largest and most solid of the four ; it was built by Kadi 
Sheref-ed-din Abd-er-Rahman, son of the Wisir Fakhr-ed-din el- 
Khalili, inspector of the religious foundations of the Harams of 
Mecca, Medina, and Jerusalem. I have seen the patents for this 
office [or the expenses of this work], drawn up by Sultan Hos- 
sam-ed-din Lajin, in the year 697 (A. D. 1319), at which time pro- 
bably this Minaret was erected. Others think it was of the time 
of Kelaun, which is possible. The fourth Minaret near the Gate 
of the Tribes is the most elegant. It was built in the reign of the 
Sultan Eshref, in the month of Shaaban, A. H. 769 [A. D. 1391]. 

§ xxvi. Gates of the Mesjid. — There are first the two gates 
pierced in the east wall, of which God speaks in the Koran, saying, 
" He raised a wall, whose gate on the inside is the Gate of Mercy, 
and on the outside the Gate of Torture." The valley behind this 
last is called Wady Jehennom. They are now stopped. Remains 
of the work of Solomon may still be seen on the inside of the 
enclosure, the only remains that are found within the Mesjid. This 
place is much reverenced and visited by pilgrims. I heard from a 
sage that these two gates were closed by Omar Ibn Khatab, and 
will only open at the end of the world, when Jesus the Son of Mary 
shall descend upon the earth. It seems they were closed for fear, 
and to secure the Haram and the city, because they face the desert, 
and there could be no advantage in having them open (to facilitate 
the entrance of the Bedawin). The place above the Gate of Mercy 
is called the Convent of Nasr, from Sheikh Nasr, who delivered 
scientific lectures there for a long time. He was replaced by the 
Imam Abu Hamid el-Ghazali, and this place was called the cell of 
Ghazali. Being afterwards repaired by Melik Isa, it soon fell again 
to ruin, so that only some remains of its walls now appear. There 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 391 
Mohammed's journey to heaven. 

is on the east side near the two gates above mentioned a third closed 
gate, opposite the stairs of the Sakhrah, called the Steps of Borak. 
It is called the Gate of Borak, because by this gate the Prophet 
entered on his nocturnal journey ; and the gate of funerals, because 
they went out by it. The Gate of the Tribes, so called from the 
Tribes of the Children of Israel, Joseph, Reuben, Simeon, and 
Judah, at the extreme north-east side, not far from the Gates of 
Mercy and Repentance. It is said that between the Gate of Mercy 
and that of the Tribes is the place of Elias and El-Khudr. 

The Gate Hitta is on the north side. This gate has its name 
from the command given by God to the Israelites, to say Hitta (i. e. 
Pardon !), as they entered it. 

The Gate of the Nobility of the Prophets is on the north. It is 
apparently this by which Omar entered on the day of the conquest. 
But God best knows all things ! It is now called the Gate of the 
Dewatar, from the school of the same name at its side. There are 
then three gates on the north ; that of the Dewatar, that of the 
Tribes, and that named Hitta. The Gate El-Ghuanimi is at the 
extremity of the west wall, where it turns north, so called after the 
minaret of that name. It leads to the quarter of the Children of 
Ghuanimi, and was formerly called the Gate of Abraham. 

The Gate of the Nazir (Inspector) is an ancient gate repaired in 
the time of Melik Isa, about A. H. 600 (A. D. 1222). It was 
formerly called the Gate of Michael. This is the gate to which 
Gabriel tied the celestial beast Borak on the night of Mohammed's 
journey. The Gate of Iron is solid and beautiful, made by Argun 
el-Kameli. The Gate Katanin (of the Cotton Merchants), so called 
from its leading to the cotton bazaar. An inscription under it states 
that the Sultan Melik en-Nasr Mohammed, Ibn Kelaun, repaired it 
in 737 (A. D. 1359). It is an extremely solid gate, and in its 
neighborhood is the Gate of the Bath, by which you can come to 
the Bath of the Mesjid. It is ancient, and was in ruins when Alia- 
ed-din el-bassir renewed its building, when he built the Mutta- 
weddy. 



392 



CITY OP THE GREAT KING. 



Schools, &c, of the Moslems. 

The Gate of the Chain and the Gate Sekine' both lead over the 
great street, called the Street of David. These are the principal 
gates and most frequented, because they lead towards the bazaar 
and the principal streets of the city. The Gate of the Chain was 
formerly called the Gate of David. 

The Gate of the Moghrebins, so called from its vicinity to the 
door of the Jamia of the Moghrebins (Western Africans) . . . and 
because by that, one goes to the quarter of the Moghrebins. This 
gate is at the south-west extremity of the enclosure, and is also 
called the Gate of the Prophet. . . . 

There are then eight gates on the west side commencing with that 
of Ghuanimi, to that of the Moghrebins, and three to the north, i. e. 
eleven in all, exclusive of the two Gates of Mercy and Repentance, 
and the closed door in the east wall — with which there are fourteen. 
... On the east and south sides, the Mesjid looks towards the 
desert : on the south, to the Fountain of Siloam, &c. ; on the east 
is also the Mount of Olives and the Valley of Jehennom ; on the 
north and west only the enclosure is bounded by houses. I have 
already said that the Mesjid was once in the middle of the city, 
surrounded on all sides by buildings, but after the old constructions 
were destroyed no one undertook to rebuild them, and the affairs of 
the world became exhausted. — So things remained as we see them 
in these days. 

Schools and Sepulchral Monuments within and around Jerusalem. 
— These charitable foundations comprehend Schools (Medresse'), 
Convents (Khankeh), Cells (Zaweh), and Caravanserais (Robat), 
founded and endowed by religious sultans, princes, and local 
governors, or officers, civil and ecclesiastical, or by private indi- 
viduals, chiefly in the 7th, 8th, and 9th centuries of the Hejira ; for 
from the time of its recovery from the Franks the Musulmin vied 
with each other in their endeavors to repair the temporary desecra- 
tion of their Holy House by special reverence and acts of extraor- 
dinary devotion. 

The Convent of Fakhr, near the Mosk of the Moghrebins, within 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



393 



Cells, Caravanserais, Baths, &c. 

the Mesjid, near the gate which leads to the Quarter of the Mogh- 
rebins founded by Kadi Fakkr-ed-din Abu-Abdullah Mohammed, 
inspector of the troops, a Coptic convert to Islam, who died A. H. 
732 (A. D. 1354), upwards of 70 years of age. [This is doubtless 
the present house of Abu Se'ud Effendi.] 

The School of Tunjuz, founded by Emir Tunjuz, prefect of Syria, 
opposite the Gate of the Chain (Bab-es-Salsala). The founder left 
many monuments of his piety, as e. g. the marbles near the Mihrab 
of the Great Mosk, on the west side. This building was commenced 
in A. H. 720 (A. D. 1342). He also caused to be made the marble 
basin between the Sakhrah and the old Mosk, and the Bath at the 
Gate of the Cotton Merchants (Bab-el-Katanin). [Hammam es- 
Shefa.] . . . 

The School of Saleh, near the Gate of the Tribes (Bab-es-Sabat), 
founded by Melik Saleh-ed-din. It is the ancient Church of St. 
John, where the Virgin Mary was buried. It was founded A. H. 
588 (A. 1). 1210). The revenues of the Sheikhs are the best that 
have been founded in the countries of Islam. 

The Cell of Yona, near the Gate of the Inspector (Bab-en Nazir). 
The School of Jehark, on the north of the Cell of Yona. These 
two places were formerly a Christian Church divided in two, so that 
one-half became the Cell of l r ona, the other the School of Jehark, 
founded in A. H. 791 (A. D. 1413), by the emir of that name, 
grand-master of the Squires of Melik Barkuk, killed at Damascus. 
The School of Efdhal, formerly called the Dome of the Moghrebins, 
founded by Melik Efdhal Nur-ed-din Abulhasan Ali, son of Saleh- 
ed-din, for the use of the Moghrebins. He founded also the Mosk 
by the side of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, A. H. 589 (A. D. 
1205), where his father died. The minaret only was built before 
the year 870 (A. D. 1492). 

The Cell Derkah, near the Hospital of Saleh. This building was 
in the time of the Franks the establishment of the Hospitallers, 
and- had been built by Helena, mother of Constantine, who built the 
Church of the Holy Sepulchre. The minaret is in ruins. Here 



394 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Convents, Minarets, &e. 

the Governors of Jerusalem formerly dismounted. This Cell was 
endowed A. H. 613 (A. D. 1235), by Melik Mozaffer-Shehab-ed-dm 
Gazi, son of Sultan Melik-el-Aadel Abu Bekr, son of Eyub, Lord 
of Miafarakein. 

The Serpents' Mosk, near the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, 
where is the talisman against serpents. It was built by the Khalif 
Omar. 

The Convent of Saleh, under the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, 
founded in 585 (A. D. 1207) by Melik Saleh-ed-din. [This is el- 
Khankey.] 

The Red Convent, near the last named, destined for the poor. 

The School of Maimun, at the City Gate, ez-Zahari. It was 
formerly a Greek Church, endowed in A. H. 593 (A D. 1215), by 
Emir Faris-ed-din Abu-Said Maimun, son of Abdullah el-Karsi, 
treasurer of Melik Saleh-ed-din. 

§ xxviii. The Minarets of Jerusalem. — Besides the four Minarets 
of the Mesjid el-Aksa, there is without a small Minaret at the School 
of Moazzem (opposite the Gate of the Dewatar), and another at the 
Convent of Saleh-ed-din, built by Sheikh Borhan-ed-din, Ibn Gha- 
nem, before the year 820 (A. D. 1442). I have been informed by 
Sheikh Shems-ed-din Mohammed, son of Sheikh Abdullah of Bag- 
dad, that Borhan-ed-din's design to build this Minaret greatly dis- 
tressed the Christians, because it would out-top the Church of the 
Holy Sepulchre. They offered a large sum of money to the Sheikh 
to abandon his design, but he continued to build, to their great 
annoyance. Then the Prophet appeared in a dream to a man whom 
he ordered to salute Ibn-Ghanem in his name, and to assure him of 
his intercession in the Day of Judgment, in recompense for his 
having raised this Minaret above the head of the Infidels. We have 
said above that the Minaret, which is on the south of the Church 
of the Holy Sepulchre, was built before the year 870 (A. D. 1492), 
on the ancient foundations. The Minaret at the side of the Cell 
Derkah was partly ruined by the earthquake of the year 863 (A. D. 
1485), and the Minaret of the Mosk near the Jews' Synagogue was 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



395 



Bazaars. Churches. 

built since the year 800 (A. D. 1422). The City of Jerusalem, as 
it now stands, is a large city built partly on the mountain and 
partly in the valley. Everywhere are found vestiges of ancient 
buildings on which the modern are reared. It has a large number 
of reservoirs for collecting the rain-water. Among the most solid 
buildings of Jerusalem is the Cotton Bazaar, on the west side of the 
great Mosk,. of such height and strength as is found in few other 
cities : then the three Bazaars near the Gate of the Mihrab, commonly 
called the Gate of Hebron (Bab el-Khalil), which are also the work 
of the Greeks, and extend in the direction of Damascus. The first, 
on the west side, is the Bazaar of the Grocers, assigned by Saleh- 
ed-din as endowment to the School which he built. The middle one 
which joins this is the Herb Bazaar, and the third on the east is 
the Bazaar of Stuffs. The rents of these last belong to the Mosk 
of Aksa. Travellers say that they know no Bazaar which can be 
compared with these. They are one of the ornaments of Jerusalem. 

Selami Ibn Kossair relates, that when Omar had taken Jerusa- 
lem he stopped at the upper part of the Bazaar, and inquired 
"Whose row is this ?" i. e. the row of Shops of the Cloth Bazaar. 
The answer was "The Christians'." "And whose," he asked, "is 
this western row, where the bath is?" He was answered — "The 
Christians'." Then he made a sign with his hand, saying, " This 
for them, and that for us." This, i.e. the middle Bazaar, which 
runs between the two rows, and is to be understood of the great 
Bazaar where is the Dome covered with lead. It is clear, he 
describes the place where are now the three Bazaars before men- 
tioned, for the old rows have disappeared, and the present buildings 
have taken their place. 

There are at Jerusalem nearly twenty Churches and Convents of 
the times of the Greeks. The principal and most solid of all is 
that of the Holy Sepulchre, annually visited by a great number of 
pilgrims from all lands, who arrive there for the day of the Resur- 
rection. The Church of Sion which belongs to the Franks, at the 
southern extremity of Jerusalem. The Church of S. James, or the 



396 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Quarters and streets of Jerusalem. 

Convent of the Armenians, near the former. The Church of the 
Cross (Masulabi), which belongs to the Georgians without Jerusa- 
lem, on the west. These four Churches are the pillars of the Chris- 
tians. . . The last was taken away from them during the reign of 
Nasr Mohammed, son of Kelaun, and converted into a Mosk. 
But in the year 705 (A. D. 1327) an ambassador arrived from the 
King of the Georgians and the Emperor of Constantinople to 
demand the restitution of this Church, which was accordingly 
restored to them. 

§ xxviii. Celebrated Quarters of Jerusalem. — Quarter of the 
Moghrebins, near the walls of the Mesjid, on the west, where the 
Moghrebins ("Western Africans) sojourn, from whom it is named. 
The Quarter of Sheraf in its neighborhood, also on the west, and 
its name is derived from a man who was of the nobles of the city, 
called Sheraf, and he has descendants known by the name of Beni 
Sheraf. It was formerly called the Kurds' Quarter. The Quarter 
of Alem, named after Alem-ed-din Suliman, son of Mohezeb, 
deceased in 770 (A. D. 1392), whose son Omar was inspector of 
Mecca and Medina, and whose brother Sheraf-ed-din is buried in 
this Quarter. It is close to the preceding on the north, and adjoins 
the Quarter of Hayadere'. The Quarter Saltein adjoins that of 
Sheraf on the south-west; Haret-er-Risha, and the Jews' Quarter 
on the east. The Quarter of Sion is west of the Jews'. The 
Quarter Dhawi, north of that of Sion, and the Quarter of the Beni 
Hareth, without the City, near the Fortress. 

§ xxix. The Street of David. — This is the great Street which 
commences at the Gate of the Chain (Salsala) of the Mesjid el- 
Aksa, and leads to the City-gate, once called of the Mihrab, now 
of Hebron (Kahlil). Its parts bear different names. Thus the part 
from the Gate of the Mesjid to the house of the Koran of Selami 
is called Suk-es-sagha (the Goldsmiths' Mart) ; from the gate of 
Selami to the gate of the Quarter of Sheraf, Suk-el-Kashash 
(faggots) ; from the Quarter of Sheraf to the Khan .Fakhm, Suk- 
el-mobidhin (the Whitesmiths' Mart) ; from the gate of the Khan 



JERUSALEM 



— AS IT WAS. 



397 



Divisions of the city. 

to the arch (Kantara) Jobeili, Suk-Khan el-Fakhem (the Mart of 
the Charcoal Inn) ; from the arch Jobeili to the steps (duraj) Hara- 
f ish,, Suk-al-tabakkin (Tobacco Mart) ; from the steps Haraf ish to 
the gate of the Jew's Quarter, Khat-bab-el-wakali (the Line of the 
Gate of the "Wakil's Office). It is a large Khan, (the revenues of 
which are assigned to the Mosk el-Aksa, and let for four hundred 
ducats a year), in which various sorts of goods are sold. From the 
Jews' Quarter to the Khan Essarf (Money-changers') is called Suk 
el-Hariri (the Silk Mart) ; and from the Khan es-Sarf to the City- 
gate, Khat-'arsat-el-ghalal (Line of the Place of Produce). 

All these parts are comprised in the Street of David, so named 
from a subterranean gallery which David caused to be made from 
the Gfate of the Chain to the Citadel called the Mihrab of David. 
It still exists, and parts of it are occasionally discovered. It is all 
solidly vaulted. 

§ xxx. The Street of the Merzeban {probably Landgrave). — It is 
divided into different parts, like that of David. From the Gate El- 
Katanin to the end of the Akba it is called Akbat-el Katanin. 
From the head of the Akba to the Khan Jobeili is known as Ham- 
man Ala-ed-din, which joins on the west the lane (shaari), known as 
the quarter of Sheikh Mahommed el-Karmi, and on the north, a 
lane (shaari), known as the quarter of the Hasrye' (Mat Merchant), 
which is followed on the east by the quarter of Ibn-es-Shentir, 
because he dwelt there ; and the whole of this is comprehended 
under the Khat of the Merzeban. (I know not the reason of this 
name, but it is so written in the legal decisions.) 

Near the Merzeban's quarter on the west is the Plan of the 
Square, and the Stuff Mart, followed by those of Herbs and Spicery : 
and close to it the street of the Derkah, where is the Hospital of 
Saleh-ed-din, and the Church of the Sepulchre. Near this the 
Christians' Quarter extends to the south-east from the Gate of 
Hallil to the Gate of Serb (Drinking). And within the Christian 
Quarter is the Quarter of the Rahbeh. The Quarter Jewalidi joins 
the Christian Quarter on the west, without the city. 



398 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Mejir ed-Din. 

§ xxxi. The Lane (Shaari) of the Valley of the Mills. — This is 
the greatest street, from the south towards Damascus, which extends 
from the steps of the fountain to the Gate of the Column (el 
'Amud) — one of the city gates, and includes many lanes (shaari). 
First, that of the Gate of the Cotton Mart, and this is the Gate of 
the Mesjid, so called because they sell cotton in the Bazaar near 
it. That of the Gate of the Inspector (en Nazir), opposite to which 
on the west, is Market Street (Akbat-es-Suk), now known as Lady's 
Street (Akbat-es-Sit), so called from a house built by Dame Ton- 
shok, in 794 (A. D. 1416). Near it on the west is the Oil Mart, 
and by it is an Akbat on the east, known as Akbat Abu Shama 
(the Mole's Father — it is the title of an unpublished tale of the 
Thousand and One Nights). On the east side of the Mill Valley is 
the Quarter Ghuanimi, named from the Beni Ghanem, and opposite 
on the west is Akbat ez-Zahari, so called from an oratory of that 
name. On the south is Akbat es-Sudan, by which, on the north, is 
the Akbat known as the Arch (kantara) of Green. At the northern 
end of Akbat ez-Zahari is the Bazaar of Fakhr, so called from the 
founder of the school of that name. Here are the soap manufac- 
tories. On the north-west of this Bazaar is the Quarter of the 
Beni-Merri, joined on the west by the Quarter Zeraini, and that of 
Malath, without the city, joining the Christians' Quarter on the 
west. Lastly, the Quarter of the Column, where the Valley of the 
Mills and the City terminate on the north-west. 

The Quarters of the Beni-Saad and Baila are on the east of the 
Mill Valley, joining on the north the Ottomans' Quarter, followed 
on the north by Akbat-es-Showekh, on the north of which again is 
the Quarter of the Beni Zied, and that of the Gate Ed-Dagu, at 
the northern extremity of the city. The Quarter Deraj-el-mola is 
near the Quarter Osaila on the east, joined on the south by the 
Quarter Sheriff-el-Umbia (Nobility of the Prophets), now called that 
of the Dewatar. It is near the Quarter Mehmazi, and leads to the 
Gate Zaharai. The Quarter of the Gate of Hitta on the north 
of the Mesjid el-Aksa, joined on the north by the Orientals', which 



JERUSALEM 



— AS IT WAS. 



399 



Quarters, streets and public buildings. 

joins the city walls. The Quarter Tori, from the Gate of the Tribes 
to the northern wall of the city, and to the Quarter called the 
Faster's. 

There are besides a great number of Quarters, but we have only 
mentioned the more celebrated ; of which the most remarkable is 
that of the Gate Hitta. All these Quarters are on the north and 
west sides of the Mesjid. On the south and east is the desert, as 
was before said. 

§ xxxii. The Castle. — This is without [?] Jerusalem on the west 
side, formerly called the Mihrab of David, who dwelt there. It is 
said that the building joined the Convent of Sion. It has a great 

tower named of David, and built by Solomon The Franks 

and Greeks erected some buildings in the Castle, when they were 
masters of Jerusalem. There is in the Castle a Castellain different 
from the governor of the city, who has the privilege of a Mint, and 
a military band every afternoon, according to the usage of the Cas- 
tellains of the castles in the great cities. This usage is now discon- 
tinued by reason of the general disorder. Formerly the Governor 
resided in the Castle. 

The buildings of Jerusalem are all of great strength, built in 
stone with vaulted roofs, or terraced without timber. Travellers 
say that they know no city better built for appearance than Jeru- 
salem, and none better in reality than Hebron. The architecture 
of Jerusalem resembles that of Nablus. These three cities are all 
of stone, because they have the advantage of being situated near 
mountains where there is an abundant supply of this material. The 
coup d'oeil of Jerusalem taken from a distance is very beautiful, 
above all on the east side, from the Mount of Olives, and also from 
the south. On the west and north only very little is seen from iar. 
Behind are the mountains which surround Jerusalem and Hebron, 
and render the approach difficult 

§ xxxiii. The City Gates. — The first, situated on the south, is 
that of the Moghrebins' Quarter, then that of Sion, now called the 
Jews'. On the west is a small secret gate adjoining the Armenian 



400 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Fountains and wells in the environs of Jerusalem. 

Convent. The Gate of the Mihrab, now called that of Khalii. 
Moshrif in his Defence of the Traditions says, that, according to 
the words of the prophet, the Gate by which Jesus shall enter at 
the end of the world to oppose Antichrist, is not the Gate of the 
Church towards Ramla, but the western Gate of David near the 
Mihrab, called by the name of Lid, and another known as the Gate 
of Rahbi [i. e. wide place]. On the north are the Gates of Serb, 
el-'Arnud ed-dazje, EzZahari, and on the east that of the Tribes. 
In all, ten gates. 

REMARKABLE PLACES IN THE ENVIRONS OF JERUSALEM. 

§ xxxiv. The Fountain of Siloam.— This is without the city, on 
the south, in the valley adjoining the southern walls of the city. 

[Then follow traditions, &c, showing how highly it is esteemed 
by the Moslems, who rank it with Zemzem, — the sacred Well of 
Mecca.] 

§ xxxv. The Fountain of Accused Women. — Said, son of Abd- 
el-Aziz, says that there was in the time of the Israelites, near the 
Fountain Siloam, another fountain, to which women accused of 
adultery came, and drank the water — with impunity if they were 
innocent, but with fatal effect if they were guilty. When Miryam 
was found with child and accused to her husband, she called God to 
witness her innocence, and drank of this water only with benefit. 
She then prayed that this water might never do harm to any faithful 
woman, and from that day the fountain disappeared. 

[This is doubtless the Fountain of the Virgin, of which a similar 
tradition is often recorded by Christian pilgrims of the middle 
ages.] 

§ xxxvi. The Well of Job. — This is near the Fountain Siloam. 
The author of the Ins mentions that he has read the following in 
the writings of Ibn Omar, son of Mohammed el-Kasem. " I have 
read in history that in a drought of water this well was dug to the 
depth of eighty Ziraas, ten long, and four wide. This well is en- 
tirely cased with large stones, each of which is five Ziraas long and 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



401 



Pools in the vicinity of Jerusalem. 

two high, more or less. I was astonished at the size of these stones, 
and at the difficulty of getting them down there. The water was 
fresh, and during the whole year at the depth of eighty Ziraas, ex- 
cept in the winter, when it overflows, inundates the valley, and 
turns a mill. I descended in the well with the laborers to dig there. 
I saw that the water there issued from a stone of nearly two Ziraas 
[in diameter ?] There is a cave, the entrance to which may be 
three Ziraas in height by one and a half in width. A very cold 
wind came from this cave. I entered it with a lighted candle, and 
saw there a cave all in stone ; I advanced, but the wind which issued 
thence extinguished the candle. This well is in the depth of the 
valley, and the cave in the middle of the well, which is surrounded 
by enormous rocks and high mountains, up which one climbs with 
difficulty. This is the well whereof God said to Job, "Place thy 
foot in this cold hole." The water which overflows in winter, for a 
month or more, forms a torrent which floods the valley. 

There are at Jerusalem six pools constructed by Ezechiel (Heze- 
kiah), one of the ancient kings of Israel. Three of these pools are 
in the city — Birket Israil, that of Solomon, and that of Ayad. The 
three others are without the city, Birket Mamillah and the two 
pools called El-Merje, which were constructed as reservoirs of water 
for the city. The first, which is very celebrated, is north of the 
Mesjid el-Aksa, near the wall, at the Gate of the Tribes (es-Sabat) 
and the Gate Hitta : it is of majestic appearance. As to the Pools 
of Solomon and Ayad, I know not where they are, unless, at least, 
they are the two pools, one of which is at the Street of the Merze- 
ban, and serves as a reservoir for the bath of Ala-ed-din Bazir 
[Hammam es-Shefa], and the second in the Christian Quarter [Birket 
Hammam el-Batrack], which serves as a reservoir to the Patriarch's 
Bath, whose revenues belong to the Convent of Saleh-ed-din. These 
two pools I suppose to be those of Solomon and Ayad. That of 
Mamillah is universally known ; the two pools named Merja are 
near the village TJrtas, distant half a farasang, whence the water is 
conducted by pipes to Jerusalem. 
26 



402 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Convent of Abu Tor and Mount of Olives. Carob-tree. 

In the vicinity of Jerusalem are everywhere seen vineyards and 
orchards. The most beautiful situation is that called El-Kaat [Buka 
in MS.], without Jerusalem on the south-west, the revenues of 
which were granted by Saleh-ed-din to the Convent of the Sofis. 
These country houses are elegantly and solidly built, and their 
owners pass several months there in the summer. 

There was formerly at Jerusalem only one palm, supposed to be 
that which the Koran says bowed to Miryam. According to El- 
Kortobi, it was planted more than a thousand years since. 

There were at most three palms in the Mesjid el-Aksa, one near 
the oratory at the side of the royal path at the place of the Sakhrah. 
This withered about the year 802 (A. D. 1424). The two others 
still exist, one at the Gate of Mercy, the second at the south of the 
Sakhrah, known as the Palm of the Prophet. [Have long since 
disappeared.] 

§ xxxvii. The Convent of Abu Tor. — On the side of this Buka, 
on the north, is a small village in which is a convent, built by the 
Greeks, known in ancient times as the Convent of Mar Kaibus. Its 
present name is derived from a pious Sheikh, to whose family this 
village was bequeathed by Saleh-ed-din, A. H. 594 (A. D. 1216). 
The Sheikh Abu Tor is buried there. His tomb is visited by many 
pilgrims. The village is near the gate of the city called the Gate 
of Hebron. 

§ xxxviii. The Mount of Olives. — This is the mountain on the 
east which commands the Mesjid el-Aksa. [Moslem Traditions.] 
It is here that Jesus ascended to heaven. On the summit is a church 
built by Helena ; in the middle is the Dome of the Assumption 
\i. e. the Ascension]. The church is in ruins, but the place is highly 
reverenced by the Christians. On the Mount of Olives is a karubeh 
[the Carob-tree], and near it a beautiful Mosk. Beneath the Mosk 
is a cave frequently visited by travellers. This tree is called the 
Karubeh of the Ten — I know not the reason of this name. This 
Mount of Olives is also called the Mountain of Khamer ; it abounds 
in fruit and shade. "When Saleh-ed-din conquered Jerusalem he gave 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



403 



Tomb of Virgin Mary. Garden of Gethsemane, &c. 

this property to the Sheikh Weli-ed-din Abul Abbas Ahmed, &c, 
and to the Sheikh Abul Hassan Ali, &c, and their families. The 
deed of grant is dated the 17th of Zilhajeh, A. H. 584 (January, 
A. D. 1206). 

§ xxxix. The Tomb of Miry am. — This is in the Church named 
Jesmanye [Gethsemane], at the foot of the Mount of Olives, out- 
side the Gate of the Tribes. This place is frequently visited by 
pilgrims, Moslem and Christian. The Church was built by Helena, 
mother of Constantine. When Omar conquered Jerusalem, he 
passed by the Church of Mary situated in the valley, and offered 
there two prayers. He afterwards repented, remembering the word 
of the Prophet, who said that this valley is one of the Valleys of 
Jehennom. " What occasion," said Omar, "had I to pray in the 
Valley of Jehennom ?" According to Kaab, he said " Go not to the 
Church of Mary which is at Jerusalem," that is the Church of Jes- 
manye. In the Church of the Mount are two columns of wonderful 
workmanship. Near the Tomb of Mary, in the Valley of Jehennom, 
is a Dome built by the Greeks, called by the people the Mound of 
Pharaoh, at which they throw stones. Near it, at the foot of the 
mountain, is another Dome of stone, named Kufyeh, after the wife 
of Pharaoh. It is said that the first of these is the Tomb of Zacha- 
riah, and the second that of John. I have read in some learned 
writings that Zachariah and John were buried on Mount Olivet, in 
the Tombs of the Prophets. Others say that their sepulchres are 
at Sabtye, near Neblus, others at Damascus. God knows best how 
it is! 

§ xl. Uz-Zahara. — This is the valley west of the Mount of Olives. 
Ibrahim, son of Abu Abbas, says that this valley is described in 
the Koran by the word Zahara. In the traditions of Ibn Omar it 
is related that the land of judgment is called Zahara, which is 
properly " a plain." Travellers quicken their pace to get out of it, 
and never sleep there. This Valley is without the city on the 
north. There are graves of Mohammedans. 

§ xli. The Cave Edhemieneh. — It is beneath the Mount of Tombs 



404 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Caverns and tombs in the vicinity of Jerusalem. 

in a wonderful rock. The Tombs of Zahara are above, so that, 
should the rock be bored, one would come from the tombs to the 
oratory Edhemiene (of the Fanatics) ; but the distance is great and 
the rock of enormous thickness, so that it may here be said that 
the dead are above the living, and I have seen it with my eyes. 
This oratory was formed by the Emir Menjek, prefect of Syria. 
There are tombs of many pious persons of distinction. 

§ xlii. The Cotton Grotto. — Opposite the Zahara on the south, 
under the northern wall of the city, is a large oblong cave named 
the Cotton Grotto ; which some say extends as far as beneath the 
Sakhrah. 

§ xliii. Graveyards without Jerusalem. — The Tombs of the Gate 
of Mercy, near the eastern wall of the Mosk above the Yalley 
Jehennom, preferred to all others as being the nearest to the Mosk. 
The Sepulchral Chapel on the north was built by the Emir Kansu 
El-Badawi, Governor of Syria, when he visited Jerusalem, which 
he quitted in the year 892 (A. D. 1514). He finished the building 
in 895 (A. D. 1517). The Tombs of Ez-Zahara, of which I have 
spoken above, on the north of the city. The Tombs of the Mar- 
tyrs, near the preceding on the east [?] : few persons are buried 
there. The Tombs of Mamilla, without the city on the west : these 
are the largest of all. The name Mamilla seems to be corrupted 
from the words " Ma-min-ullah" (What is from God!), or as others 
think, from "Babullah," (the Gate of God). The Jews call it 
Beit-Mollo, the Christians, Babila ; the common name is Mamilla. 

The Kalenderien Tombs. In the middle is an oratory known as 
Kalenderieh, in which are great buildings, and this oratory was a 
Greek Church. It is known as the Bed Convent, and the Chris- 
tians believe in it. Sheikh Ibrahim Kalenderi there collected the 
poor Kalenders [a sect of fanatical Fakhirs], in the time of Dame 
Tonshok, daughter of Abd-ullah El-Mozaffer, who built the great 
institution known by the name of the House of the Dame Tonshok, 
and the Dar-el-akba near the Gate of the Inspector. By her libe- 
rality Sheikh Ibrahim built this Convent in 794 (A. D. 1416), but 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



405 



Tombs. 

it is in ruins since it fell in 893 (A. D. 1515). There are seen the 
Tombs of the most illustrious personages of Jerusalem. 

The Kebkebian Tombs, near the Turbet Mamilla. It is a build- 
ing solidly constructed, raised by the Emir Ala-ed-din Aidi Ghadi, 
son of Abdullah el-Kebkebi, who is there buried. He died in 688 
(A. D. 1310). 



CHAPTER XIV. 



JERUSALEM UNDER THE TURKS. 
EXTRACTS FROM JOURNAL OE HENRY MAUNDREL. — 1697. 

But that which has always been the great prize contended for by 
the several sects, is the command and appropriation of the Holy 
Sepulchre, a privilege contested with so much unchristian fury and 
animosity, especially between the Greeks and Latins, that in dis- 
puting which party should go into it to celebrate their mass, they 
have sometimes proceeded to blows and wounds even at the very 
door of the Sepulchre, mingling their own blood with their sacrifices, 
an evidence of which fury the father guardian showed us in a great 
scar upon his arm, which he told us was the mark of a wound given 
him by a sturdy Greek priest in one of these unholy wars. Who 
can expect ever to see these holy places rescued from the hands of 
infidels ? Or, if they should be recovered, what deplorable contests 
might be expected to follow about them, seeing, even in their present 
state of captivity, they are made the occasion of such unchristian 
rage and animosity ? 

For putting an end to these infamous quarrels, the French king 
interposed, by a letter to the Grand Vizier, about twelve years since, 
requesting him to order the Holy Sepulchre to be put into the hands 
of the Latins, according to the tenor of the capitulation made in 
the year 1673, the consequence of which letter, and of other in- 
stances made by the French king, was that the Holy Sepulchre was 
appropriated to the Latins. This was not accomplished till the year 



JERUSALEM UNDER THE CRUSADERS. 



WATERS. 

A Lacus Germani — Lower Gihon. 

B Lacus Pa triarchy— Upper Gihon. 

C Lacus Patriarchae interior — Ilezekiah's Pool. 

D Probatica Pisciua — Bethesda. 

E Piscina a Francis inventa, or 

Piscina Grandis Valde. 
F Piscina ad latus Templi. 
G Piscina ad latus Templi, exterior. 
II Fons Siloe. 

I Natatoria Siloe. 

J Puteus Jacobi — detectus a Germano. 
K Fons Draconis — Virgin's Fount. 

CHURCHES AND APPENDAGES. 

1 Monasterium Surianorium. 

2 Monasterium et Ecclesia ascensiouis. 

3 Ecclesia St. Pelagii. 

4 Ecclesia Pater Noster. 

5 Ecclesia Dei Genetricis Marias. 

6 Capella Gethsemane. 

7 Monasterium de Valle Josephat. 

8 Ecclesia Salyatoris (St. Saviour ?) 

9 Turris Josepbat. 
10 Capella St. Jacobi. 

II Uzziab's Sepulchre, near to which was also the 

Church De Leon. 

12 Ecclesia Gallicantus. 

13 Ecclesia Sionis. 

14 Ecclesia St. Petri. 

15 Church Holy Ghost — Ccenaculum, or House of 

Caiapbas. 

16 Pretorium Pilati. 

17 Ecclesia Martyris Procopii, or House of Annas. 

18 Bridge and Tree of J udas. 

19 Carnariarum Leonis — Mamilla or Babilla. 

20 Ecclesia St. Stephani(?) 

21 St Stephen's Stables. 

22 Templum Domini. 

23 Capella in honorem St. Jacobi. 

24 Templum Salomonis (domus regia Francorum). 

25 Domus Templi seu officiane Fratram Militse 

Templi. 

26 Ecclesia St. Marias. 



27 Ecclesia Cunabuli Jesu. The Temple of St. 

Simeon was either identical with this or im- 
mediately contiguous. 

28 Equitia Salomonis (below). 

29 Porta Speciosa, 

30 Portis Douleureuses. 

31 Monstier le Repons. 

32 Pretorium. 

33 Ecclesia St. Sepulchri. 

34 Ecclesia Marias Majoris. Adjoining this Church 

was the Hostel of Charlemagne, the Church 
of St. John the Apostle, the Church of the 
Holy Trinity, and the Baptistery 

35 Ecclesia St. Johanuis Baptisti. 

36 Ecclesia Marias de Latina. 

37 Ecclesia Marias Magdalene, seu Marias Parvas. 

58 Claustrum Domiuorum St. Sepulchri. 

39 Changes des Suriens. 
Syrian Church of St. Mark. 

40 Ecclesia St. Charitonis. 

41 Dyeing Establishment. 

42 Castle of the Pisans — Tower of Hippicus. 

43 Coenobium — St. Saba. 

44 Church of St. Zion— St. Zion's Place. 

45 Church of St. Simeon. 

46 Ecclesia St. Jacobi Minoris. 

47 Ecclesia St. Jacobi Majoris. 

Church of St. Thomas midway between the two 
preceding. 
4S Ecclesia St. Petri ad Yincula. 

49 Monstisr St. Martin. 

50 Ecclesia St. Stephani (?) 

51 Ecclesia St. Petri. 

52 Ecclesia St. Johannis. 

53 Ecclesia St. Marias Magdalene. 

59 Ecclesia St. Annas. 

CO Dungeon of Jeremiah. 

61 Zenodochium of Dame Tonshok, afterwards call- 

ed Hospital of St. Helena. 

62 Place of Stephen's Martyrdom. 

63 Viri Galilasi. 

The Church or Convent of the Cross is one mile 

west of the city. 
The Church of St. Zebedee was also one mile 

distant — direction not stated. 





JERUSALEM* 

Ualei Gi_e Crusaders. 



JERUSALEM— AS IT WAS. 



407 



Journal of Henry Maundrel. 

1690, they alone having the privilege to say mass in it ; and though 
it be permitted to Christians of all nations to go into it for their 
private devotions, yet none may solemnize any public office of religion 
there but the Latins. 

The daily employment of these recluses is to trim the lamps, and 
to make devotional visits and processions to the several sanctuaries 
in the Church. Thus they spend their time, many of them for four 
or six years together ; nay, so far are some transported with the 
pleasing contemplations in which they here entertain themselves, 
that they will never come out to their dying day, burying themselves 
(as it were) alive in our Lord's grave. 

The Latins, of whom there are always about ten or twelve residing 
at the Church, with a president over them, make every day a solemn 
procession, with tapers and crucifixes and other processionary solem- 
nities, to the several sanctuaries, singing at every one of them a 
Latin hymn relating to the subject of each place. The Latins being 
more polite and exact in their functions than the other monks here 
residing, and also our conversation being chiefly with them, I will 
only describe their ceremonies, without taking notice of what was 
done by others, which did not so much come under our observation. 

Their ceremony begins on Good Friday night, which is called by 
them the nox tenebrosa, and is observed with such an extraordinary 
solemnity that I cannot omit to give a particular description of it. 

As soon as it grew dusk, all the friars and pilgrims were convened 
in the chapel of the apparition (which is a small oratory on the 
north side of the holy grave adjoining to the apartments of the 
Latins), in order to go in a procession round the church ; but, before 
they set out, one of the friars preached a sermon in Italian in that 
chapel. He began his discourse thus: "In questa notte tene- 
brosa" &c, at which words all the candles were instantly put out, 
to yield to a livelier image of the occasion ; and so we were held 
by the preacher for near half an hour, very much in the dark. 
Sermon being ended, every person present had a large lighted taper 
put into his hands, as if it were to make amends for the former 



408 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Church of the Holy Sepulchre. 

darkness ; and the crucifixes and other utensils were disposed in 
order for beginning the procession. Amongst the other crucifixes, 
there was one of a very large size, which bore upon it the image of 
our Lord as big as the life. The image was fastened to it with 
great nails, crowned with thorns, besmeared with blood; and so 
exquisitely was it formed, that it represented in a very lively man- 
ner the lamentable spectacle of our Lord's body as it hung upon the 
cross. This figure was carried all along in the head of the proces- 
sion, after which the company followed to all the sanctuaries in the 
church, singing their appointed hymn at every one. 

The first place they visited was that of the Pillar of Flagellation, 
a large piece of which is kept in a little cell just at the door of the 
Chapel of the Apparition. There they sung their proper hymn ; 
and another friar entertained the company with a sermon in Spanish, 
touching the scourging of our Lord. 

From hence they proceeded in solemn order to the prison of 
Christ, where they pretend he was secured whilst the soldiers made 
things ready for his crucifixion. Here, likewise, they sung their 
hymn, and a third friar preached in French. From the prison they 
went to the altar of the Division of Christ's Garments, where they 
only sung their hymn, without adding any sermon. Having done 
here, they advanced to the Chapel of the Derision, at which, after 
their hymn, they had a fourth sermon (as I remember) in French. 

From this place they went up to Calvary, leaving their shoes at 
the bottom of the stairs. Here are two altars to be visited, one 
where our Lord is supposed to have been nailed to his cross, another 
where his cross was erected. At the former of these they laid down 
the great crucifix (which I but now described) upon the floor, and 
acted a kind of resemblance of Christ's being nailed to the cross ; 
and after the hymn one of the friars preached another sermon in 
Spanish upon the crucifixion. 

From hence they removed to the adjoining altar, where the cross 
is supposed to have been erected, bearing the image of our Lord's 
body. At this altar is a hole in the natural rock, said to be the 



JERUSALEM— 



AS IT WAS. 



409 



Ceremonies attending the mock crucifixion of the Saviour. 

very same individual one in which the foot of our Lord's cross stood. 
Here they set up their cross, with the bloody crucified image upon 
it ; and, leaving it in that posture, they first sung their hymn, and 
then the father guardian, sitting in a chair before it, preached a 
passion sermon in Italian. 

At about one yard and a half distance from the hole in which 
the foot of the cross was fixed, is seen that memorable cleft in the 
rock, said .to have been made by the earthquake which happened 
at the suffering of the God of Nature, when (as St. Matthew wit- 
nesseth*) " The rocks rent, and the very graves were opened." 
This cleft, as to what now appears of it, is about a span wide at its 
upper part, and two deep, after which it closes ; but it opens again 
below, as you may see in another chapel contiguous to the side of 
Calvary, and runs down to an unknown depth in the earth. That 
this rent was made by the earthquake that happened at our Lord's 
passion, there is only tradition to prove ; but that it is a natural 
and genuine breach, and not counterfeited by any art, the sense 
and reason of every one that sees it may convince him ; for the 
sides of it fit like two tallies to each other, and yet it runs in such 
intricate windings as cannot well be counterfeited by art, nor arrived 
at by any instruments. 

The ceremony of the passion being over, and the guardian's 
sermon ended, two friars, personating the one Joseph of Ari- 
mathea, the other Nicodemus, approached the cross, and, with a 
most solemn and concerned air, both of respect and behavior, drew 
out the great nails, and took down the feigned body from the cross. 
It was an effigy so contrived that its limbs were soft and flexible, 
as if they had been real flesh ; and nothing could be more surpris- 
ing than to see the two pretended mourners bend down the arms, 
which were before extended, and dispose them upon the trunk in 
such a manner as is usual in corpses. 

The body being taken down from the cross, was received in a fair 



* Matt, xxvii. 51. 



410 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Easter in Jerusalem. 

long winding-sheet, and carried down from Calvary, the whole com 
pany attending as before, to the Stone of Unction. This is taken 
for the very place where the precious body of our Lord was anointed 
and prepared for the burial. Here they laid down their imaginary 
corpse, and casting over it several sweet powders and spices, wrap- 
ped it up in the winding-sheet. Whilst this was doing they sung 
their proper hymn ; and afterwards one of the friars preached, in 
Arabic, a funeral sermon. 

These obsequies being finished, they carried off their fancied 
corpse, and laid it in the Sepulchre, shutting up the door till Easter 
morning ; and now, after so many sermons and so long, not to say 
tedious, a ceremony, it may well be imagined that the weariness of 
the congregation, as well as the hour of the night, made it needful 
to go to rest. 

Sunday, March 28. — On Easter morning the Sepulchre was 
again set open very early. The clouds of the former morning 
were cleared up, and the friars put on a face of joy and serenity, 
as if it had been the real juncture of our Lord's resurrection ; nor, 
doubtless, was this joy feigned, whatever their mourning might be, 
this being the day in which their Lenten discipline expired, and 
they were come to a full belly again. 

Coming to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, we found it crowded 
with a numerous and distracted mob, making a hideous clamor, very 
unfit for that sacred place, and better becoming Bacchanals than 
Christians. Getting with some struggle through the crowd, we 
went up into the gallery on that side of the church next the Latin 
Convent, whence we could discern all that passed in this religious 
frenzy. 

They began their disorders by running round the Holy Sepul- 
chre with all their might and swiftness, crying out, as they 
went,* "Huia!" which signifies "This is he," or "This is it," 
an expression by which they assert the verity of the Christian 



* The words they utter now are— God save the Sultan— this is the tomb of our Saviour. 



JERUSALEM — AS IT WAS. 



411 



Fanatical exhibitions around the tomb of the Saviour. 

religion. After they had, by these vertiginous circulations and 
clamors, turned their heads and inflamed their madness, they began 
to act the most antic tricks and postures, in a thousand shapes of 
distraction. Sometimes they dragged one another along the floor 
all around the Sepulchre ; sometimes they set one man upright on 
another's shoulders, and in this posture marched around ; sometimes 
they took men with their heels upward, and hurried them about in 
such an indecent manner as to expose their nudities ; sometimes 
they tumbled around the Sepulchre after the manner of tumblers 
on the stage. In a word, nothing can be imagined more rude or 
extravagant than what was acted upon this occasion. In this 
tumultuous, frantic humor they continued from twelve till four 
o'clock : the reason of which delay was because of a suit that was 
then in debate before the Oadi, betwixt the Greeks and Armenians, 
the former endeavoring to exclude the latter from having any share 
in this miracle. Both parties having expended, as I was informed, 
five thousand dollars between them in this foolish controversy. The 
cadi at last gave sentence that they should enter the Holy Sepul- 
chre together, as had been usual at former times. Sentence being 
thus given, at four o'clock both nations went on with their cere- 
mony. The Greeks first set out in a procession around the Holy 
Sepulchre, and, immediately at their heels, followed the Armenians. 
In this order they compassed the Holy Sepulchre thrice, having 
produced all their gallantry of standards, streamers, crucifixes, and 
embroidered habits, upon this occasion. 

Towards the end of this procession there was a pigeon came flut- 
tering into the cupola over the Sepulchre, at sight of which there 
was a greater shout and clamor than before. This bird, the Latins 
told us, was purposely let fly by the Greeks, to deceive the people 
into an opinion that it was a visible descent of the Holy Ghost. 

The procession being over, the suffragan of the Greek Patriarch 
(he being himself at Constantinople), and the principal Armenian 
bishop, approached to the door of the Sepulchre, and cutting the 
string with which it is fastened and sealed, entered in, shutting the 



412 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Descent of the holy fire. 

door after them, all the candles and lamps within having been before 
extinguished, in the presence of the Turks and other witnesses. 
The exclamations were doubled as the miracle drew nearer to its ac- 
complishment, and the people pressed with such vehemence towards 
the door of the Sepulchre, that it was not in the power of the Turks 
set to guard it, with the severest drubs, to keep them off. The 
cause of their pressing in this manner is the great desire thej have 
to light their candles at the holy flame as soon as it is first brought 
out of the Sepulchre, it being esteemed the most sacred and pure, 
as coming immediately from heaven. 

The two miracle-mongers had not been above a minute in the 
Holy Sepulchre, when the glimmering of the holy fire was seen, or 
imagined to appear, through some chinks of the door ; and certainly 
Bedlam itself never saw such an unruly transport as was produced 
in the mob at this sight. Immediately after, out came the two 
priests, with blazing torches in their hands, which they held up at 
the door of the Sepulchre, while the people thronged about with 
inexpressible ardor, every one striving to obtain a part of the first 
and purest flame. The Turks, in the mean time, with huge clubs, laid 
on them without mercy; but all this could not repel them, the excess 
of their transport making them insensible to pain. Those that got 
the fire, applied it immediately to their beards, faces, and bosoms, 
pretending that it would not burn like an earthly flame. But I 
plainly saw that none of them could endure this experiment long 
enough to made good that pretension. So many hands being 
employed, you may be sure it could not be long before innumerable 
tapers were lighted. The whole Church, galleries, and every place 
seemed instantly to be in a flame, and with this illumination the 
ceremony ended. 

It must be owned that those two within the sepulchre performed 
their part with great quickness and dexterity ; but the behavior of 
the rabble without very much discredited the miracle. The Latins 
take a great deal of pains to expose this ceremony, as a most 
shameful imposture and a scandal to the Christian religion ; perhaps 



— AS IT WAS. 



JERUSALEM 



Consecration of winding-sheets on the slab of unction. 



413 



out of envy that others should be masters of so gainful a business. 
But the Greeks and Armenians pin their faith upon it, and make 
their pilgrimage chiefly upon this motive. And it is the deplorable 
unhappiness of their priests, that having acted the cheat so long 
already, they are forced now to stand to it for fear of endangering 
the apostasy of their people. 

Going out of the church after the riot was over, we saw several 
people gathered about the Stone of Unction, who, having got a good 
store of candles lighted with the holy fire, were employed in 
daubing pieces of linen with the wicks of them and the melting wax, 
which pieces of linen were designed for winding-sheets ; and it is 
the opinion of these poor people, that if they can but have the 
happiness to be buried in a shroud smutted with this celestial fire, 
it will certainly secure them from the flames of hell. 

Upon this finishing day, and the night following, the Turks allow 
free admittance for all people, without demanding any fee for 
entrance as at other times, calling it a day of charity. By this 
promiscuous license, they let in not only the poor, but, as I was told, 
the lewd and vicious also, who come hither to get convenient oppor- 
tunity for prostitution, profaning the holy places in such manner (as 
it is said) that they were not worse defiled even when the heathens 
here celebrated their Aphrodisia. 



CHAPTER XV. 



CLIMATE AND PRODUCTIONS OF JERUSALEM AND VICINITY. 
"A delightsome land, saith the Lord of Hosts." 

Properly speaking, there are but two seasons in Palestine at the 
present time — and indeed the Scriptures mention no others — " win- 
ter and summer, cold and heat, seed-time and harvest," or wet and 
dry. As soon as the winter rains set in, all nature becomes re-ani- 
mated, and the parched surface of the earth is " decked in living 
green;" but it is not till after the vernal equinox that it becomes 
arrayed in its gaudiest floral mantle. Then " the winter is past, the 
rain is over and gone, the flowers appear on the earth, the time of 
the singing of birds is come ; and the voice of the turtle is heard 
in the land." The splendor of a Syrian sky, and the gorgeous 
effulgence of the setting rays on its rainless summer clouds, have 
been greatly extolled by travellers ; but if not excelled in brilliancy 
by the sky of the United States, it is certainly surpassed in variety 
and softness of hue. The transparency of its atmosphere, however, 
is justly proverbial ; and the occasional influence of this charac- 
teristic property, in bringing up distant objects apparently to one's 
immediate vicinity, is quite bewildering, and occasions the traveller 
anxiously approaching a desired locality a disappointment similar 
to that resulting from the mirage — making the heart sick by hope 
deferred. 

Yet there is occasionally a kind of dry mist or haziness, like 




JJEHUSALEM FIOM TIE IOETI. 



JERUSALEM — AS IT IS. 415 

Suspension of latter rains. Judgments, &c 

smoke, that renders the vision of distant objects very indistinct and 
unsatisfactory — in appearance not unlike the "Indian Summer" of 
the United States. 

The isothermal line is much higher in the old than in the new 
world : consequently this region, though lying in the same parallels 
of latitude as those embraced between Washington City and New 
Orleans, its climate is materially warmer, and in consequence of the 
diminished amount of rain, rivers once figuring very conspicuously 
upon its map, now no longer exist. 

Elevation of temperature, diminution of humidity and verdure 
(and the consequent electrical changes), are all the necessary 
sequents of this partial suspension of the latter rains. 

The fruitful seasons promised to the Israelites by Jehovah, were 
all suspended upon obedience to the terms of the covenant; for he 
expressly threatens to diminish, withhold, or « turn to dust and 
powder" these fructifying showers on disobedience, and it would seem 
that not only did this intimate connexion between temporal welfare 
and moral conduct exist under the Jewish dispensation, but is also 
to be the rule of the incoming millennial dispensation ! (And it 
shall be that whoso will not come up of all the families of the earth 
unto Jerusalem, to worship the King, the Lord of Hosts, even upon 
them shall be no rain : Zech. xiv. 17.) And often has the threat 
been executed to a greater or less extent in times of defection : 
" He turneth rivers into a wilderness, and the water springs into 
dry ground : a fruitful land into barrenness for the wickedness of 
them that dwell therein." Therefore the showers have been with- 
holden, and there hath been no latter rain," says Jeremiah (iii. 3). 
At one time they were entirely withheld in judgment for the space 
of three years and six months continuously : at other times only 
for a few months ; and sometimes very partially, and specially, as 
recorded by the prophet Amos (iv. 7), " I have withholden the rain 
from you, says the Lord, when there were yet three months to the 
harvest ; and I caused it to rain upon one city ; and caused it not 
to rain upon another city ; one piece was rained upon, and the piece 



416 CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 

Causes of the suspension of rain. 

whereupon it rained not withered ; so two or three cities wandered 
to one city to drink water." Most of these instances of the cessa- 
tion or paucity of the showers of heaven were manifestly the imme- 
diate result of Divine infliction. But although it may appear that 
the present deficiency of rain is ascribed to natural causes, yet 
these natural agencies being brought about by Divine causation, the 
results are no less referable to the same source. After the destruc- 
tion of Jerusalem by Titus, and the dispersion of the few remaining 
Jews, the tenure of property in Palestine became so very insecure 
and uncertain that systematic agriculture was entirely neglected. 
The marauding incursions of the predatory bands of Saracens, 
Persians, Mamelukes, and Turks, with innumerable herds of camels, 
goats, horses, and cattle of every description, like so many swarms 
of destroying locusts soon denuded the country of verdure, and 
hence the failure of summer clouds — for there exists between the 
clouds of heaven and the verdure of earth a reciprocal reaction, 
founded upon the most intimate meteorological connexion — the pro- 
duction of clouds and rain being greatly promoted by trees and 
herbage. The continuous existence of the one necessarily implies 
the presence of the other : and the absence of the one necessitates 
the diminution of the other. 

If then the present sterility of Palestine be chargeable to the 
absence of summer rains, or of more extensive and copious fall, 
winter, and spring rains, on account of its denuded condition, and 
it should again be clothed in verdure, by cultivating in the first place 
such trees, grains, and herbs as need but little moisture, and can be 
successfully cultivated in the present condition of the country ; it 
requires no prophet to foretell that the genial influences of earlier 
and later, if not of summer rains, would soon be realized. 

Absorption of the rain by the ground, would be greatly facilitated, 
were it once protected from the scorching rays of the sun, by such 
a mantle of foliage and herbage ; and evaporation being also greatly 
checked, fountains would again spring forth in places where they 
have long since disappeared. Such a result too would be in exact 



JERUSALEM — AS IT IS. 



417 



Pluviometrical observations. 

accordance with the arrangements of the Divine economy — both 
natural and revealed — even though it be effectuated by chemical and 
electro-magnetic influences. Many model orchards, farms, and gar- 
dens have lately been established in Palestine — like so many little 
oases in the desert — and the result already justifies the conjecture 
that this is the Divinely appointed means of restoring to the Holy 
Land the fructifying influence of the long- suppressed rains, and 
exhausted fountains and depths,* at least so far as to justify a par- 
tial return of the Jews — the rightful proprietors of the land. But 
that we are to expect the direct Divine interposition, in behalf of 
the land, at a later period, is unquestionable. 

It will be seen by reference to the appended pluviometrical 
table that the total annual average fall of rain at Jerusalem, is 56.5 
inches ; but if the last column be discarded from the calculation, 
the average would be 61.6, and if an average be formed from the 
first five columns only, it mounts up nearly to 70 inches. No appre- 
ciable portion of this rain falls in June, July, August, or September ; 
and very little either in May or October — more than nine-tenths of 
it falling in December, January, February, and March, and more 
copiously in February than any other month. The greatest amount 
of rain tabled in any year during the period of observation is 85 
inches, which fell in the season of 1850-51 ; the smallest, that of 
1853-54, 26.9 inches; but this amount is so small compared with 
any other year, that there is good reason to question the accuracy of 
this column. The average annual fall of rain throughout the United 
States is about 45 inches ; and perhaps in no one year has so great 
an amount of rain fallen as in Palestine during the winter of 1850. 
But in California the rain averages only about 20 inches per annum. 

* Nothing is better established than the siderably diminished by the denudation of 
fact that the fountains and streams of all the surrounding country ; and that they were 
wooded countries diminish, and in many restored to their former level by the regrowth 
instances entirely disappear, on clearing the of forests. The Jordan was no doubt de- 
forests and cultivating the ground. It was creased somewhat by the denudation of the 
observed, both by Humboldt and Baussingolt, forests about its sources, to supply Egypt 
that the waters of Lake Tacariga were con- with timber and fuel. 
27 



418 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Thermometrical observations. 

It is thus perceived that the rains are about one-fourth more abundant 
in Palestine than in the Atlantic portion of the United States, and 
two and a half times more abundant than in California, even at the 
lowest estimate. The rain sometimes falls continuously for several 
days very gently, but generally more hastily, and at the rate of 
half a dozen or a dozen or two showers per day, and that too when 
but little is expected. But each spell of rain or succession of 
showers is sure to be succeeded by several days of fine, bright 
weather — " clear shining after rain." And although the rainy sea- 
son is not marked by an entire cessation of rain at any time, pro- 
ducing as decided an interval as might be supposed from the works 
of occasional travellers ; yet an interregnum of several weeks' dry 
weather generally occurs between the middle of December and the 
middle of February, somewhat distinguishing the « former rains" of 
the season from the latter. 

The greatest range of the thermometer in any one year of the 
period through which the observations extended was 52°, and the 
widest during the whole period 54°. The highest elevation of the 
mercury 92°, and the lowest 38°, though 143° in the sun on one 
occasion ; and, under favorable exposure, immediately before sun- 
rise on one occasion, was only about 28°. Pellicles of ice, an 
eighth of an inch in thickness, remained in the shade the whole 
day. The mean annual average of temperature is 66.5°, while 
that of Boston is 49°, Philadelphia 52°, Washington 53°, New 
Orleans 62°, and San Francisco, California, 56°. July and August 
are the hottest months, but June and September are nearly as warm. 
January is decidedly the coldest month in the year. The climate 
is remarkably uniform — though an opposite opinion might very 
naturally be drawn, when the relative positions of the snow-capped 
Lebanon, and the burning desert of Arabia, are considered. The 
thermometric variation in the same latitude on the Atlantic coast 
of the United States is nearly twice as great. California and 
the peninsula of Florida are the only portions of the United States 
through which the isothermal line of Jerusalem passes. In point 



JERUSALEM — AS I T I S. 



419 



Vegetable calendar. 

of temperature and periodic seasons of rain, there is the closest 
analogy between Palestine and California. 

The sun-stroke would appear not to be as fatal as it once was, 
judging from the Scripture allusions to it ; though I have known 
very injurious consequences to result from exposure to the full blaze 
of a mid-day sun, on the part of strangers. Sleeping beneath the 
rays of a full moon is also supposed to be very prejudicial to 
health. 

CALENDAR OF THE VEGETABLE KINGDOM FOR JERUSALEM AND 
THE SURROUNDING COUNTRY. 

In giving a brief synoptical view of the vegetable productions 
of Palestine, it will be most expedient, as it also is most natural, to 
exhibit the subject in the order of its development by nature — 
ploughing, sowing, and reaping — and open the calendar with the 
usual commencement of the rainy season, which happens also to begin 
with the Jewish civil year. The parching drought of summer 
having prevailed for more than half the year, the whole vegetable 
kingdom appears to be held in durance and abeyance, until the 
windows of heaven are once more opened, and the reviving showers 
begin to fall about the period of the autumnal equinox. The Feast 
of Tabernacles or ingathering of crops, at the end of the year (Ex. 
xxiii. 15, 16), was celebrated on the 15th Tizri (Sept.), at the end 
of the year. 

The annual routine of vegetation being now completed, and the 
husbandman having reaped all that he has sown, or indeed can sow, 
without the mollifying influence of rain to restore the cracked and 
indurated earth, he anxiously awaits the first shower, that he may 
lay the foundation of another series of crops. Having gone to the 
banks of the river Jordan, and selected a bifurcated limb, with such 
crooks and proportions that one prong may serve as a beam, ano- 
ther as a handle, and the remainder as a stock for the attachment 
of a piece of iron, he hitches to this primitive plough a cow and a 



120 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Observations on the vegetable kingdom. 

donkey, and stirs up the soil — if not as effectually, at least as 
rapidly as an "unclean" pig would do. 

October. — Under favoring circumstances much wheat and barley 
are sown this month. All the ordinary garden esculents are also 
committed to the earth, as well as sesame, chickpea, and other 
lentiles. 

The grape season is still well maintained, but pomegranates are 
becoming scarce. Olive-trees threshed for the last berries. Pistachio 
nuts make their appearance in the bazaars. If the rains have set 
in early, a few flowers begin to appear towards the close of the 
month : and radishes, lettuce, and other vegetables of rapid growth 
are already sufficiently matured for use. The seed that was sown 
in the spring may now be gathered. The cotton crop is now fully 
matured. The species of cotton heretofore cultivated in Palestine, 
has not commanded a good price abroad ; but Mr. Smith, the able 
and enterprising American Consul at Beirut, having made a large 
experiment with American seed, near Jaffa and Tyre, succeeded in 
raising an artisle of excellent staple, which, though its production 
only cost 3J pence per pound, readily brought one shilling in 
London. Fig leaves begin to blacken and fall. 

November. — The principal sowing of wheat and barley is made in 
this month. Deciduous trees are now generally denuded. Such 
dates as have matured are now collected ; but it is only on the 
plains that they attain to much perfection. A few olives still 
gleaned. The vintage terminates this month. The grapes not 
heretofore consumed as an article of diet, or converted into raisins, 
are trodden in the wine-press, and set fermenting in the vat for 
wine or vinegar. Some of the expressed juice, however, instead 
of being thus appropriated, is boiled down to the consistence of 
molasses, under the name of dibs or dibes, and is far superior to 
any kind of sugar-cane treacle. The raisins, as well as figs, are 
rather indifferently cured, and are mainly consigned to the still by 
the Jews and Christians, and converted into arrak, and alcohol of no 
mean bead — but great quantities of them are consumed as a cheap 



JERUSALEM — AS IT IS. 



421 



Fruits, vegetables, fuel, &c. 

and wholesome article of diet. Although Ichabod is evidently written 
upon Eshcol, yet it still produces most delicious grapes, particularly 
a seedless species, very much sought after by housekeepers. The 
vines are generally permitted to lie upon the ground in a state of 
the utmost neglect, without the slightest bracing or training ; but 
in some of the vineyards of Eshcol, a bracing is most effectually 
accomplished by tying together the tops of three or four neighboring 
vines. 

December. — The earth fully clothed with rich verdure. Wheat 
and barley still sown, also various kinds of pulse. Sugar-cane in 
market. Cauliflowers, cabbages, radishes, lettuce, lentiles, &c. 

Ploughing still continues at intervals. 

January. — Last sowing of wheat and barley. Last roasting ears 
of American maize — being the third successive crop from the same 
piece of ground ! A few trees in leaf. Beans in bloom. The 
almond-tree blossoms, and, in rapid succession, the apricot, peach, 
and plum. 

Cauliflowers, cabbages, &c. Oranges, lemons, citrons, and limes. 
New leaves on the olive-tree. Doura planted. The mandrake in 
bloom — also the wormwood — absinthium, santoreium judaicum. 

This is midwinter, and fire becomes indispensable to the comfort 
and health of the Frank population of the city ; though the natives 
build no fires, for merely warming themselves (except, perhaps, a few 
exposed out-door shopkeepers), contenting themselves throughout 
the winter with additional clothing.* Charcoal is the principal fuel 
made use of for domestic culinary purposes. But many thousand 
bundles of sticks and brush are also consumed : both are brought 
from Hebron and the banks of the Jordan, eighteen or twenty miles 



* There is not in all Jerusalem a single Ac. But the cooking and warming of the 

fire-place, and perhaps not half a dozen natives is almost exclusively done by means 

chimneys, even to the bakeries and soap of a few pieces of charcoal burnt in a pile 

manufactories. A few stoves, however, have of ashes, in a little furnace made of clay and 

been introduced amongst a few Frank fami- straw, about the capacity of two gallons, 
xies residing there as consuls, missionaries, 



422 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Vegetables, fruits and flowers. 

distant. In the large baking establishments, the only fuel used is 
green thorns, brushwood, and thistles, in bunches the size of sage, 
brought from a considerable distance on donkeys, and great is " the 
crackling of thorns under the pots." Lime-kilns are built in the 
midst of fields that abound in thorns, thistles, and rank weeds and 
grasses ; which are dug up, and thrown into the furnace, through a 
narrow aperture — and such is the disposition of much of " the 
grass which to-day is, and to-morrow is cast into the oven," — for 
mountain-like piles of it are required for these various purposes. 
All the village bakeries are heated by the excrement of cows and 
camels. It is to be hoped that the late discovery of good coal in 
Mount Lebanon, will lead to great improvement in the social con- 
dition of all Syria. 

February. — Barley may still be sown. Snap-beans begin to 
mature sufficiently for table use. Apple-trees in bloom. 

Hyacinths, daffodils, tulips, ranunculuses, lilies, narcissus, gera- 
niums, scarlet poppies, anemones, daisies, and many other familiar 
flowers in bloom, spreading themselves over the country in rich 
carpets ; besides vast numbers of unknown herbs, springing every- 
where in the fields. Cauliflowers, onions, carrots, beets, radishes, 
&c. Oranges, &c, &c. 

March. — Beans and peas in market. Trees all in full leaf. 
Pear-trees in bloom — also the apple-tree, palm, and black-thorn. 

Sage, thyme, and other aromatics. Various kinds of mint. Both 
fruit and flowers on orange and lemon-trees. The fig-tree blossoms. 
Date-palm in flower. 

Cauliflowers now in their highest state of perfection, equal to the 
best English or American. 

The pod of the carob-tree nearly ripe — very much like the honey- 
shuck.* The crop of celery sown in July now perfected. Rue, 
parsley, hyssop, leeks, onions, garlic, &c. 



* This carob fruit is sometimes called tho 
" food of John the Baptist and also sup- 
posed to have been the husks on which tho 



Prodigal Son sustained himself in his direful 
extremity ! ! 



JERUSALEM — AS IT IS. 423 

Luxuriant vegetation. Flower carpets. 

The flowers of last month are still to be found either in the val- 
leys or mountains. 

April. — Wheat and barley harvest already commenced on the 
plains of the Jordan, if the rains have not been more than usually 
protracted. Sugar-cane set. Grass very rank, and all vegetation 
very luxuriant. 

Horses are now universally tethered in the green barley fields, to 
enjoy uninterruptedly, for several weeks, the "spring grazing." 

Beans, onions, peas, artichokes, lettuce, cucumbers, a species of 
onion much resembling a large turnip, very acrid and pungent 
when raw, but mild and edible when well boiled. The uncultivated 
and unimproved Arab potato is now seen in great abundance. 

Lavender, rosemary, &c. White mulberry ripe. Cistus roseus 
in bloom — the supposed rose of Sharon. Oleander in bloom. 

Great variety and numbers of plants — one of them entirely 
unknown, has several different kinds of flowers on it. The fields 
abound in the richest carpets of brilliant flowers — that luxuriate in 
the frequent alternations of sun and shower. Early roasting ears. 
First ripe apricots. 

May. — Harvest in progress both on the mountains and in the 
valleys. Almonds ripening. Apples in market, but very inferior, 
as all kinds are throughout Syria. The "mandrakes" give forth a 
smell and ripen their fruit. Many vegetables still sown ; and vege- 
tate without rain — as pumpkins and various kinds of squashes. 
Many esculents are raised as well at the conclusion of the rainy 
season as at the commencement. Vegetation having attained its 
maximum, now begins rapidly to decline for want of rain. 

Late in the month watermelons, muskmelons, cantelopes, &c, 
are in market : but generally only from the plains. The Sultan is 
supplied with those grown upon the shores of Lake Tiberias, pro- 
nounced the finest in the world. Cucumbers, onions, tomatoes, pota- 
toes, maize. Oleanders still in bloom. Walnuts and blackberries 
ripe. First crop of sycamore figs — the jimaze or mulberry fig — 
for such is the import of its Greek name. 



424 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Rose-water, cactus, cochineal insect, &c. 

June. — Threshing still continues. Figs in market, cherries 
plums, damascenes, now abundant. Cedar berries. Herbage 
becoming parched, the nomad Arabs begin to move northward 
with their flocks. The Fellahin, with a view of improving the qua- 
lity, and hastening the process of maturation, are observed touching 
the fig with an oiled rag, affixed to the extremity of a long pole. 
Olives, almonds, figs, quinces, plantain fruit, and bananas : a few 
grapes ripe also. Licorice-plant and dandelion. Egg-plant in 
great perfection and abundance ; will continue in market for 
months. Down fruit from Jericho. Henna gathered to dye the 
hands, by way of checking perspiration, as well as beautifying them. 

The season of making rose-water, by distilling the fragrant petals 
from " Wadi el Word" (Valley of Roses), and exposing the jars in 
the sun. 

July. — Abundant supply of pears, nectarines, peaches, grapes, 
melons, potatoes, tomatoes, egg-plants, &c. The Indian fig, prickly 
pear, or cactus fruit, now ripe, and largely consumed. The trunk of 
the Jerusalem variety is about as thick as the human body, and 
usually but little longer, generally recumbent — its oval leaf is eight 
or ten inches long, five or six broad, and nearly one inch thick — 
well studded with prickles — each leaf (with few exceptions) grows 
from the end or side of another, and soon becomes converted into 
a limb. The gaudy yellow flowers that also put forth from the 
edges of its mammoth leaf, produce a delicious golden-colored 
cucumber-shaped fruit. These leaves, if placed a yard or two apart 
and covered ever so slightly with earth, even in midsummer, soon 
take root, and form one of the most impenetrable hedges imaginable. 

If the cochineal insect really thrives as well upon it as is 
reported, the inexhaustible supply about Jerusalem opens a wide 
field for an industrial enterprise of a very laudable and remunera- 
tive character — the employment of the poor Jews in Palestine. The 
cocooneries are in full operation this month. Fine plums, dama- 
scenes, peaches, dates, cucumbers, pumpkins, and watermelons — the 
latter are sometimes preserved through winter. Their seeds are 



JERUSALEM— AS I T I S. 425 

Vegetables, fruits, sesamum oil, &c. 

also salted and preserved for eating. Various kinds of gourds 
likewise. 

Millet, doura, linseed, and tobacco. There are several species of 
tobacco cultivated in Palestine — being incessantly smoked by men, 
women, and children ; but always being suffered to run to flower, 
it is milder than that raised in the United States. First grapes 
ripe. 

August. — All the fruits and vegetables of this goodly land are 
now mature. Figs, grapes, citrons, and pomegranates still abound. 
Tomatoes, egg-plants, &c, &c. Turkish corn or doura, and millet 
ripening. That truly rich and valuable tree, whose beautiful silvery 
leaf has been so long the emblem of peace — the perennially green 
olive of the earliest species — has now fully matured its berries, 
which being gathered, first by shaking, and then by beating the 
trees, are taken to the mill, and being ground into pulp, the " sweet 
oil" is extracted by pressure. 

September. — Grapes, olives, pomegranates, pears, plums, citrons, 
peaches, tomatoes, potatoes. Cotton rapidly maturing, and hemp 
in bloom. Millet, doura, maize (Egyptian). Most of the lentiles are 
gathered within four months after planting chick-peas, lupins, beans, 
fenugreek. The crop of sesame, sown immediately on the removal 
of the barley, is now somewhat matured, but not gathered, till next 
month : its expressed oil is called serage, and is used very exten- 
sively for culinary purposes, and of late for burning — since the price 
of olive oil has advanced so much. The castor oil plant (palma 
christi), which in the United States is generally an annual, or at 
most a biennial plant of six feet height, is here a perennial tree 
twenty feet in height. Wild fennel is now matured, several species 
of flowers spring up through the hard desiccated earth, without a 
particle of moisture — and yet are very esculent.* 

* There are certain plants here that seem caves, through whose fissures minute radicles 

to have the remarkable faculty of attracting have forced their way, and may be seen at 

moisture from the atmosphere, even when it all times bespangled with myriads of minute 

is exceedingly arid. This phenomenon may drops of water; while not a particle is visible 

be observed in some of the sepulchres and or in any way appreciable, ei&ewhere. 



426 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Vegetables and American agriculturists. 

The grape gathering season continues a month or two longer, bur 
by the end of this month, the earth having made an abundant 
return of all her varied productions, refuses all assistance from man, 
and makes the rains a sine qua non to further effort. 

The foregoing calendar is by no means complete. No mention 
whatever has been made of many evergreens and medical plants, to 
which much interest attaches ; such as the juniper, cedars of Lebanon, 
cypress, pine, tamarisk, terebinth, mistletoe ; wall plants — rhubarb, 
aloes, datura stramonium, colocynths, squill, henbane, cucumis 
prophetorum, &c, &c. Nor has a complete list of vegetables been 
given, for any one month whatever. Mention too is only made of 
such as are raised without the slightest forcing or artificial irrigation. 
It must also be borne in mind that nearly every article mentioned 
in the calendar, can be had from irrigated gardens for six, eight, or 
ten months of the year, and many, indeed, the entire year round. 
The sylva of Palestine is truly meagre at this time, compared with 
what it was in the days of its prosperity ; but even amid all of its 
desolation, its flora is by no means contemptible, nor its list of fruits 
and esculent vegetables to be carped at. Nearly every species of 
vegetable in common use in the United States has been successfully 
cultivated in Jerusalem and its immediate vicinity. But amongst 
all those that I introduced in the spring of 1851, none has succeeded 
so well as the sweet potato. Oranges, limes, and lemons of various 
kinds are to be had in the greatest profusion and perfection almost 
the entire year round, and on terms surprisingly low. 

May is the great harvesting month, and the vintage extends 
from July to October. 

The American agricultural colonists have successfully cultivated 
nearly every variety of American vegetables, grain, and fruits, 
most of which they first introduced, not only upon the low plains 
of Sharon near Jaffa, but at the Valley of Artos (or Etham near 
Bethlehem), and on the heights about Jerusalem. It is matter, 
however, equally of surprise and regret that the apple seems to be 
almost insusceptible of acclimation to that region. 



JERUSALEM — AS IT IS. 427 
Meteorological observations. 

The foregoing notices are intended to apply mainly to Jerusalem. 
Very material alterations would be required for the region of the 
sea-coast, and all lower districts of country, and especially for the 
valley of the Dead Sea, and the lower portion of the Jordan, which 
is quite a tropical region. 

It is said that between the top of Jebl-Sannin and the lower 
valley of the Jordan — a distance of sixty miles, there exists almost 
every climate between the torrid and the frigid zone. In relation to 
this famous spur of the Lebanon range, it may be truthfully said, after 
the manner of the Arabs, that his towering head is ever crowned 
with a resplendent turban of snow ; spring smilingly sports upon 
his breast ; exuberant autumn reposes in his lap ; and at his feet — 
if they really extend so far as to be laved by the Jordan and Dead 
Sea — ever-enduring summer revels in luxuriance. 

Meteorological Tables. — The register of the weather from which 
the following abstract is made, although possessing no special 
claims to rigid accuracy, is yet sufficiently reliable for all ordinary 
purposes. The thermometer used is one of McAllister's best in- 
struments, though not self-registering. During the first year of 
observations it was well situated beneath an out-door shelter, entirely 
free from all disturbing causes ; but was afterwards kept in a small 
isolated building, which, though sufficiently well ventilated during 
the day, was closed at night — owing to which the sunrise tempera- 
ture is always marked too high in cold weather. The coldest period 
is about sunrise, the warmest about noon ; and sunset very fairly 
represents the average temperature of the twenty-four hours. The 
barometer was by no means a first-rate instrument ; but though it 
might not be reliable for ascertaining heights, yet its relative indi- 
cations are perfectly reliable. Observations made at sunrise, noon, 
and sunset. The rain gauge made use of was quite an ordinary 
instrument ; and not at all favorably situated for exact measurement : 
preference is therefore given to the more extensive registration 
made at the Anglican Hospital under the superintendence of Dr. 
McGowan, according to Newman's gauge. The last column, however. 



428 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Thermornetrical and pluviometrical register. 



contains the indications of the common rain gauge ; but are so far 
below the average of Newman's pluviometer that their accuracy is 
by no means unquestionable. 

The period of time through which the meteorological observa- 
tions extend is quite remarkable for variety of weather — the 
deepest snow, the heaviest rain — the severest drought, the lowest 
depression of the mercury, and perhaps its highest elevation. It 
therefore affords all the elements necessary to the formation of a 
correct idea of the climate of Jerusalem. 



Table of Average Monthly Temperatures. 





















,2 




ii 
,o 




Years. 


!? 














3 


a 


% 

o 


a 


a 




a 






c 




c 




SO 
3 


p. 




o 
















3 
i-s 




•< 


m 


O 




p 




o 


o 


o 





o 


O 


o 


O 


o 


o 


O 


o 














72.8 


79.8 


78.2 


75. 


72.3 


67. 


53.3 


1852 


49.6 


52.1 


56. 


62.2 


69.6 


73.8 


78. 


78. 


74.1 


76.6 


62.7 


55.3 


1853 


51.4 


60.4 


60.2 


64. 


77.6 


77.3 


78. 


80. 


80.2 




61.1 


52.9 


1854 


49.6 


50.8 


51. 


58.1 


74.1 


76.9 


80.8 


80.9 


77.3 


72'.9 


64.3 


56.6 


1855 


47.1 

























Average . . 


49.4 


54.4 


55.7 


61.4 


73.8 


75.2 


79.1 


79.3 


77. 


74.2 


63.8 


54.5 



Average annual temperature, 66.5°. 



Register of the fall of Rain at Jerusalem from 1846 to 1854 [in inches). 



Months. 


184S-7. 


1847-8. 


1848-9. 


1849-50. 


1850-1. 


1851-2. 


1852-3. 


1853-4. 


Average. 


October 


4. 


4. 


0. 




0. 


0. 


0. 


.2 


1. 


November .... 


6.4 


0. 


.2 


•72 


6.4 


0. 


1.8 


2.3 


2. 


December .... 


0. 


19. 


16. 




33.8 


15.2 


9.4 


3.6 


14. 


January 


9.8 


24.6 


19.4 




14.6 


13.6 


4.2 


4.4 


13. 


February .... 


32.8 


5.8 


13.2 


'3) 


24. 


25. 


4. 


5.8 


16. 


March 


6. 


0. 


11.8 




4. 


8.8 


21.4 


6.5 


8. 


April 


0. 


.2 


0. 


O 


2.2 


0. 


1.2 


3.6 


1. 


May 


0. 


1.4 


0. 




0. 


2.4 


2. 


.5 


1. 


Total per annum . 


59. 


55. 


60.6 




85. 


65. 


u. 


26.9 


56.5 



It must be borne in mind that the foregoing observations are 
applicable only to Jerusalem and its immediate vicinity : for the 
temperature, atmospheric pressure, and amount of rain on the low 



Armenian Oo 
— — -4 — — 




WEST. 




Lower Pool of" 



JERUSALEM FKOM THE WEST. 



JERUSALEM — AS IT IS. 429 
Thermometrical and pluvionietrical register. 

plains (and especially in the depressed valley of the Jordan), are 
so much greater as to change the whole vegetable calendar.* 



* Those wishing farther particulars on this 
subject may find them by consulting the 
Thesis of Dr. R. Gutzlaff Barclay, Physician 
to the Jerusalem Mission, by whom the fore- 



going observations were made. This Disser- 
tation on " The State of Medical Science in 
Syria" is published in the September Num- 
ber of the Medico-Chirurgical Journal. 



REMAINS OF JEWISH TOWER NEAR THE SERAGLIO. 



CHAPTER XVI. 

WALLS, GATES, TOWERS, &o. 
"Is this the city which men call the perfection of beauty — the joy of the whole earth ?" 

Jerusalem at this time has no cross-walls in the interior, unless 
the northern and western sides of the Temple enclosure may be 
regarded as such. The present wall of the city is about two and a 
half miles in circumference, and very respectable in appearance — 
albeit somewhat patched and piebald. It will average about forty 
feet in height ; but in a few places is about twice that height inclu- 
sive of its symmetrical embrasures. It would appear from inscrip- 
tions on the gates that it was erected about the year 1542 ; and, as 



REFERENCES TO MAP OF MODERN JERUSALEM. 



GATES. 

A St. Stephen's Gate— Bab Sitte Myriam. 

B Golden Gate — closed; immediately to the left of 
which there is a small gateway, also closed. 

C Triple Gateway — to the right is a small Sara- 
cenic doorway, and at junction of wall the 
double gateway — the traditional Gate of Hul- 
dah. 

D Mugrabin Gate — Bab el-Mugarebeh — generally 
closed. 

E Zion Gate— Bab en-Neby Daud. 
F Jaffa— Bab el-Khalil. 
G Damascus Gate— Bab es-Sham. 
II Herod's Gate — Bab ez-Zahara — permanently 
closed. 

POOLS, ETC. 

a Birket Mamilla— Upper Pool of Gihon. 

b Birket es-Sultan— Lower Pool. 

c Pool of Siloam— Birket Silwan taht. 

d Ain Sitte Myriam. 

e Birket Hammam Sitte Myriam. 

f Birket el-Hi jj eh. 

g Pool of Hezekiah— Amygdalon. 

h Bathsheba's Pool. 

3 Royal Cistern beneath the Temple Area, 
j Bu-ket Israel — Bethesda. 
k Tanks at En-rogel. 

TURKISH QUARTER. 

1 Mosk of Omar— Kubbet es-Sakhrah. 

2 Mosk el-Aksa. 

3 Mosk Abu Bukr. 

4 Mugrabin Mosk. 

5 Mart of Science. 

6 Sidna Iesa— Cradle of Jesus. 

7 Serai or Seraglio — site of Tower of Antonia. 

8 City Castle— Tower of Hippicus in the north- 

east corner. 

9 Melaweh Church and Mosk— situated over Cot- 

ton Megara (Cave). 

10 Mahmooneh Church and Pottery. 

11 St. Anne's Church. 

12 French Consulate. 

13 Austrian Consulate. 

14 Baldwin's Bath. 

15 Church of Flagellation— immediately to the 

right of which is Dier el-Addas. 

16 Turkish Bath. 

17 Indian Moslem Khan. 

18 Pasha's Residence. 

19 Ain Hammam es-Shefa and Bath. 

20 Residence of Baskatib and Cadi. 

21 Mekhemeh— Council Chamber— Sanhedrim. 

22 House of Town Clerk — Abu Send. 

23 Remains of Tyropoeon Bridge. 

24 Helena's Hospital. 

25 Prussian Consulate. 



CHRISTIAN QUARTER. 

26 English House of Industry. 

27 Greek Church and Nunnery. 

28 Greek Convent, Archimandrite's Residence, &\ 

29 Latin Convent, Nunnery, &c. 

30 Casa Nuova. 

31 Greek Convent of St. Theodore. 

32 Greek Hospital. 

33 Greek Convent of Constan tine. 

34 Coptic Convent. 

35 Greek Church and School. 

36 French Hospital. 

37 Palace of Latin Patriarch. 

38 Greek Church and Convent of the Forerunner, 

39 Prussian Hospice. 

40 Anglican Church. 

41 Anglican Hospibtl. 

42 St. Mark's, Syria 1 ?! Church. 

43 St. James's Church, Armenian. 

44 Palace of Armenian Patriarch. 

45 Armenian Hospital. 

46 Dier ez-Zeitun. 



JEWS' QUARTER. 

47 Jews' Dispensary. 

48 Great Synagogue. 

49 Khulid Perusim. 

50 American Christian Mission Premises. 



IN THE ENVIRONS. 

51 Tombs of Kings— Kubr Moluk. 

52, 52, 52 Tell el-Massabin— Ashmounds. 

53 Rockmouud. 

54 Turbet Zahara — Mohammedan Cemetery. 

55 Mohammedan Wely and Cemetery. 

56 Greek Church— St. George— el-Khudr. 

57 English Cemetery. 

58 American Cemetery. 

59 Neby Daud — Tomb of David. 

60 Armenian Convent — House of Caiaphas. 

61, 61, 61, 61, 61, 61 Aqueduct from Solomon's Pools. 

62 Aceldama — Monument of Ananas. 

63 House of Annas, Dier el-Khadis Modistus, Dier 

et-Tor. 

64 Kefr Silwan— Village of Siloam. 

65 Site of Bethphage. 

66 Tomb of Zacharias. 

67 Tomb of James. 

68 Jehoshaphat and Absalom. 

69 Garden of Gethsemane. 

70 Church of Virgin Mary. 

71 Tombs of the Prophets— Kubr el-Umbia. 

72 Village of Jebl Tur— Church of Ascension. 

73 Kfisr — Watch Tower. 

74 Deep Tanks— Ruins— Viri Galilaei? 



JERUSALEM 



— AS IT IS. 



Walls and gates. 

is generally admitted, by Suliman I., the second of the Ottoman 
Sultans that reigned over Jerusalem. It would appear that the 
present walls are nearly identical in position with those erected by 
Hadrian ; though often partially destroyed and rebuilt. They were 
so much decayed in 1178 — about the close of the Frank domination — 
that large sums were sent from Europe for their reparation. And 
they were again repaired and strengthened in 1192, by Saladin 
(Seleh-ed-Din), after the expulsion of the Franks. In 1219, how- 
ever, they were all thrown down by order of Sultan Melek el-Miadh- 
Shem, except the Haram walls and El Khala, but were restored in 
some measure by the Christians, when 'delivered to them in 1243. 
The city soon afterwards fell into the hands of its present usurpers, 
by whom it was placed very much in the state we now find it, by 
order of Sultan Suliman. It must be admitted, however, that the 
lions carved in such bold relief on St. Stephen's Gate savor much 
more of the Crusaders than of the iconoclastic Moslems, and are 
probably referable to the age of the Crusades, as are also many 
other portions of the existing walls. It seems to have been well 
defended by a fosse on its most assailable points, but is now very 
shallow ; and in many places quite effaced, by accumulation of 
rubbish. At a few points the native rock is merely faced with 
masonry ; in others, built upon it — as on Mount Bezetha. 

The city has four principal gates, facing the cardinal points of 
the compass — the Jaffa or Bab el Klialil (gate of a friend — i. e. 
Abraham — the friend of God), on the west ; the Damascus or Bab 
es Sham or Bab el Amud (gate of Syria or the column) on the 
north ; the St. Stephen s or Bab Sitte Miriam (St. Mary's gate) on 
the east ; and Zion or Bab en-Nebi Baud (gate of the prophet David) 
on the south. They are quite respectable in point of architecture ; 
and are kept open from sunrise to sunset every day, except an hour 
on Friday — the Moslem Sabbath — noon, when they are closed with 
religious care while services are being held in the Haram. The 
Mugrabin Grate, Bab el Mugharibeh, situated in the Tyropoeon, is 
never opened except during seasons of scarcity of water, when it is 



f I 

I 

432 CITY F T il E GREAT KING. 

Gates and castles. 

kept open several hours every day for the convenience of water 
carriers, who supply the city with water brought on donkeys from 
Bir Ayuab. There were formerly several other gates, but they are 
all now walled up with substantial masonry. One of these, called 
Herod's Gate, or Bah ez Zahari [gate of Flowers)^ is on the north 
side. On the east is situated a large and beautiful structure called 
the Golden Gate (Bab ed Dahariyeh, the Eternal Gate), nearly 
midway the Temple wall on the east ; and fifty feet below it is a 
small gate or door, also walled up. On the south there is a small 
closed gate or door one hundred and five feet from south-east corner, 
and a hundred and sixty-three feet beyond this is the large triple 
gateway described in the section on the Temple. The city wall 
proper unites with the southern wall immediately east of the large 
double gateway known as Huldah's. 

There are many structures in the wall that might be styled battle- 
ments and towers — though scarcely worthy of the name— but there 
are several mural structures in the el Khalah, besides the Hippie 
Tower or city castle, that may well be thus denominated.. This for- 
tification is entirely surrounded by a fosse, very deep generally, and 
a portion of it sloped off and substantially walled as a bulwark or 
buttress. When the Holy City fell into the hands of the Crusaders 
in 1099, this stronghold was the last to be captured. It was then 
known as the Tower or Citadel of David, but is also mentioned 
under the name of the " Castle of the Pisans." The large massive 
structure, situate in the north-eastern corner of the fortress, is 
undoubtedly of the highest antiquity, and is unquestionably the 
celebrated "Tower of Hippicus." It is still called the Tower of 
David, by those who suppose that the palace of that old warrior 
bard was on this part of Mount Zion : but this is an egregious mis- 
nomer. It is about seventy feet in length and fifty-six in breadth : 
the upper portion is of modern and inferior workmanship, but the 
original structure to the height of about forty or fifty feet still 
remains, the rocks apparently in situ as in the days of Herod, some 
of them ten or twelve feet in length and three or four in thickness 



JERUSALEM — A^KlT IS. 4BS 
Tancred's Tower. Streets. 

It is probable, in the highest degree, that in the projection at the 
north-east corner of the Haram enclosure we have the remains of 
the Tower of Hannaneel. In the north-west corner of the city are 
seen the remains of a large piece of fortification called " Goliath's 
Castle" (KhalilJulil), better known as " Tancred's Tower" — and it 
was certainly in this immediate neighborhood that he was encamped. 

It will be observed, on comparing the existing city wall with its 
original boundaries, that it only occupies about one-third the site of 
the ancient city, in its utmost extent ; much of Mount Zion being 
excluded on the south, and nearly all of Ccenopolis on the north. 

THE STREETS. 

Alas ! how different from the marble-paved streets of ancient 
Jerusalem ! They cannot, with propriety, be said to be paved at 
all ; yet they are covered with stones and rocks of all sizes and 
shapes imbedded in the earth ; very narrow and filthy — many of them 
having a trench or ditch in the middle designed for horses and 
camels, between the elevated side-paths, which are used for foot- 
passengers. This ditch is frequently two feet in depth ; and as 
only one beast can pass at a time, battles are constantly being 
fought for the right of way. Their average width is not more than 
ten feet; and many are not half that breadth. However indis- 
pensable to convenience the designation of streets by special names 
may be regarded amongst us, this is a convenience unknown in 
Jerusalem — there being only two or three streets known amongst 
the natives by any special name. The Franks, however, are 
endeavoring to supply this awkward inconvenience to some extent, 
by reviving a few of the names by which they were called by the 
Crusaders — as follows : — 

Street of Mount Zion. — That part of the main street, if such we 
may call the rude passage-way, running between Zion and Damascus 
Gates, which divides the Jews' Quarter from the Armenian, is 
known by this name. The remainder of it, separating the Latin 
and Greek Quarters from the Turkish, is generally called St. 

28 



434 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Streets and bazaars. 

Stephen's Street (in virtue of a former tradition of the Latins, that 
assigned the martyrdom of the courageous deacon a site not far 
from Bab-es-Sham), but by many it is designated, and certainly 
more appropriately, Damascus Street. 

Street of David, is the name by which they designate that por- 
tion of the great thoroughfare leading from Jaffa Gate to the 
Temple, dividing the Latin and Greek Quarters from the Armenian ; 
and that portion of it running between the Turkish Quarter on the 
one side, and the Jews' and Mugrabin on the other, is called the 
Street of the Temple. 

Mill Valley Street, is the designation by which the low lane run- 
ning from Mugrabin Gate to its junction with Damascus Street, is 
appropriately styled. 

The zigzagging street, lying between St. Stephen's Gate and the 
north-western corner of the city, is called Via Dolorosa from St. 
Stephen's Gate to Damascus Street, and from that point westward, 
Street of the Holy Sepulchre. 

Street of the Patriarch, is the name of the short and straight 
street lying between Hezekiah's Pool on the one side, and the 
Greek Convent of the Forerunner on the other — running from 
David Street to the Street of St. Sepulchre. 

Palmer Street runs directly in front of the Church of the Holy 
Sepulchre, from a point midway Patriarch Street, on to the Street 
of Damascus. 

The short street, lying between Damascus and Valley Streets, 
immediately in front of Helena's Hospice, is sometimes called 
Market Street; but generally TariJc es Sitte — Lady Street, in honor, 
no doubt, of the lady by whose munificence that magnificent struc- 
ture was erected — either the Empress Helena or Dame Tonshok. 

BAZAARS — SUK. 

The Jeivish Bazaars are located mainly on the street immedi- 
ately east of the Zion highway and the street leading thence by the 
great synagogue. The Turkish Bazaars occupy nearly the whole 



JERUSALEM — AS IT IS. 



435 



Markets. Architecture. 

of David and Temple Streets, Damascus Street, and the network 
of alleys at its southern extremity. Patriarch Street is the princi- 
pal seat of the Christian Bazaars; but the Court of the Church 
of the Holy Sepulchre is the great "house of merchandise'' for 
" holy wares," "pious trinkets," and "sacred relics" — the Grand 
Spiritual Bazaar ! The Arab Bazaar is situated on the lower portion 
of the Via Dolorosa and the street entering it nearest the Church 
of St. Anne. The Corn Market is a term applied to the vacant 
space around the el-Khalah. But besides these leading bazaars, 
each sect of Christians has its own special shops, generally near 
their convents, for the sale of particular articles. 

The Cotton Bazaar — once a magnificent structure, and still in a 
tolerable state of preservation — is now entirely abandoned, and 
made the receptacle of all manner of filth ; though even now sus- 
ceptible of restoration at a comparatively trifling cost. The prin- 
cipal avenue to the Haram leads through this bazaar, immediately 
north of Hammam es-Shefa. 

The domestic architecture of this once magnificent city of palaces, 
is of the simplest possible character. The houses are all constructed 
of the common limestone of the country, with the exception of a 
few public edifices. There being no timber in Palestine, this mate- 
rial is exceedingly high-priced here ; and the doors and casements 
of the windows are the only portion of the houses made of wood — 
not a particle being used about the floors, roofs, or any other part 
whatever. The windows, which, by-the-by, are very few and small, 
are all grated with iron — if sufficiently large to admit a thief; and 
hence the the jail-like appearance of the houses. And it is only 
within the last few years that window-glass has been introduced into 
a few houses of the better classes. There being only one outer 
door to the largest establishments, no windows below, and those 
above generally concealed by lattice-work, the inmates enjoy as 
much seclusion as could well be desired. The entire absence of 
timber necessitates the most extensive use of crypts, arches, vaults, 
and domes, in the construction of buildings. This imparts a very 



436 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Building materials and houses of Jerusalem. 



pleasing appearance to the interior of the rooms ; and the ceilings 
are generally very properly ornamented with mouldings in mortar. 
The stones of which private houses are constructed, are generally 
quite small and roughly squared : but those used in the construc- 
tion of public edifices are very nicely and accurately squared into 
large blocks. 




INTERIOR OF A JERUSALEM HOUSE. 



All the rock anywhere to be found in the neighborhood of 
Jerusalem, with the exception of occasional deposits of flint (of 
which, that on Mount Olivet, and in the Valley of the Kedron, 
is very richly variegated), is limestone. But it varies greatly 
in quality, color, and consistency. There is a highly varie- 
gated reddish species, quite abundant about the city, so compact 
and fine-grained as to be quite well entitled to the appellation 
by which it is known — Jerusalem marble. The sparkling white 
variety, found at Anatta (or Anathoth), out of which the Anglican 
Church is built, is quite a handsome building material ; but so 



JERUSALEM — AS IT IS. 437 
Quarters of the city. 

rapidly disintegrates that not a few rocks in the lower tiers had so 
far exfoliated as to require removal and substitution before the 
entire completion of the building. In consistency and texture there 
is the greatest variety, some being so hard, fine-grained, and com- 
pact as to rank as good lithographic stone, and much of it as soft and 
friable as chalk. The facility with which much of it disintegrates will 
alone account for the disappearance of the immense piles of wrought 
stones which every traveller expects to find amongst the ruins of 
the Holy City — and the consequent deposit of a "heap" of rubbish, 
forty feet deep, on the site of the Holy City. 

QUARTERS OF THE CITY. 

Jerusalem is divided into three general sections, called Quarters 
— the Jewish, Christian, and Mohammedan — Haret Yehudy — Haret 
En Nassaraneh — and Haret el Mussulmin. The Christian Quarter 
comprises all that portion of the city lying west of the main 
thoroughfare that runs between the Zion and Damascus Gates, 
through the principal bazaars. The Jewish or Zion Quarter is 
bounded by the southern portion of the above street on the west, 
the central part of Temple Street on the north, the base of the hill 
(Zion within the wall) on the east, and a portion of the city wall on 
the south — being the more north-eastern corner of Mount Zion, 
comprising only about one-fifth its area. And all the remainder of 
the city is embraced under the Turkish Quarter, to which apper- 
tain also two reservations in the Christian Quarter — the large forti- 
fication and barracks at the Jaffa Gate, called El-Khalah, and the 
miserable string of huts at Zion Gate, belonging to the Lepers. 

I. The Jews' Quarter. — Perched upon a bold, rocky promon- 
tory of Mount Zion, at an elevation of ninety-one feet above the 
present level of the Tyropoeon, is a cluster of rudely-constructed 
houses, now occupied as the premises of the American Christian 
Mission. This spot is undoubtededly one of the most notable 
localities about the Holy City, though heretofore it has failed to 



438 CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Mount Zion. 




AMERICAN CHRISTIAN MISSION PREMISES, ON THE STRONGHOLD OF ZION. 



attract the attention not only of tourists and pilgrims, but of pro- 
fessed antiquarians and topographers. It is the north-eastern- 
most projection of "the Holy Hill Zion," and is distant only one 
hundred and eighteen yards from the western wall of the Haram 
es-Sheriff, which being identical in position with that of the western 
cloister of the Temple, defines the width of the Tyropoeon Valley 
at that spot; between Mount Moriah and Mount Zion — the Mugra- 
bin Quarter of the city. 

This lofty cliff was the great bulwark of the ancient city of the 
Jebusites, and is first mentioned in 2 Samuel (v. 6-9), being un- 
questionably the "stronghold" of Zion, where King David was 
so derided by the king of Jebus in the taunting language of insult 
and defiance — " Except thou take away the blind and the lame, thou 
shalt not come in hither — thinking David cannot come in hither." 
And well might the insulting and overbearing Jebusites so think; 
for even Joshua himself, that pious and pre-eminently successful 
old generalissmo of the hosts of Israel, had not succeeded in re- 
ducing this "fort," though the "children of Judah" afterwards 



JERUSALEM — AS IT IS. 



439 



Mount Zion. 

captured and burnt the lower city on Acra, which in all probability 
was Salem, the ancient city of " Melchisedec, the King of Righteous- 
ness." "Nevertheless, David took the stronghold of Zion — the 
same is the city of David ;" and now the united cities of Jebus and 
Salem became Jebus-Salem, or, for euphony's sake, Jerusalem — the 
proud capital of the son of Jesse. How often have the halls with 
which he crowned this lofty summit resounded to the mellifluous 
strains of the harp of " the sweet Psalmist" and bard of Israel, as 
he sang the " sweet songs of Zion," which he indited as he was moved 
by the Holy Spirit. How beautiful, too, for situation, when the 
Holy Hill of Zion was "the joy of the whole earth!" But alas! 
how changed is the appearance of this world-famed hill, under its 
Turkish owners ! The very first expression that now usually escapes 
the lips of the traveller (and has, perhaps, already been suggested 
to the reader by the truth-telling photograph print), queries whether 
this can possibly be " the city that men call beautiful, the joy of the 
whole earth," the place that the Great Ancient of days "hath 
chosen to dwell at for ever," and over which the great Melchisedec 
will yet reign gloriously before his ancients. 

This commanding situation must ever have been a very important 
one, whether in the possession of heathen, Jew, or Christian ; and 
accordingly we learn from Josephus that it was successively the 
site of the royal palaces of the Davidian, Asmonean, and Herodian 
dynasties of Israel. Herod the Great, however, required a larger 
area for the display of his magnificent designs; and hence he 
erected another, and perhaps still more sumptuous palace near the 
Tower of Hippicus (which he seems mainly to have occupied), on 
the site of the present splendid Anglican Church and Consulate — 
quite on the opposite side of the city. But not only did Herod 
Agrippa (called king) have his magnificent palace on this identical 
spot, but also built by its side another for his beautiful but mere- 
tricious sister, Berenice, so unsparingly satirized by Juvenal — before 
both of whom, as well as Festus, Felix, and Drusilla, Paul delivered 
his celebrated address at Csesarea. Here also, was the famous hall 



440 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



North-eastern promontory of Mount Zion. 

"for feasting and compotations," to which the great Jewish histo- 
rian and priest thus alludes : " King Agrippa built himself a very- 
large dining-room in the royal palace in Jerusalem, near to the 
portico. Now this palace had been erected of old by the children 
of Asamoneus, and was situated upon an elevation and afforded a 
delightful prospect to those that had a mind to take a view of the 
city, which prospect was desired by the king, and there he could lie 
down and sit, and thence observe what was done in the temple, &c, 
&c." (Ant. book 20, chap. ix. sec. 10.) And truly it was a most 
delightful prospect. The beautiful, purplish, chatoyant mountains 
of Moab and Ammon, bounding a part of the horizon at the dis- 
tance of twenty-five or thirty miles ; the hallowed ridge of Olivet 
forming the remainder at the distance of a mile. Then, only one 
hundred and fifty yards distant was the gorgeous Temple, " exceed- 
ing magnifical, and of fame and glory throughout all countries," 
crowning . Mount Moriah. The deep gorge of the Tyropoeon, at 
that time, perhaps, about two hundred feet below the palace, 
adorned by the magnificent Xystus Porticos which lay below — the 
towering Castle of Antonia loomed aloft on the north, and on the 
right were Ophel, Kedron, Siloam, En-rogel, &c. Immediately ad- 
jacent on the north was unquestionably situated the " Armory of 
Solomon," or "the House of the Forest of Lebanon," and just in 
its rear, in the direction of the Tower of Hippicus, was the "House 
of the High Priest." The east end of the palace was connected 
with the Temple by that cyclopean bridge so often mentioned by 
Josephus, spanning the Tyropoeon, and forming a noble highway 
between Moriah, the colossal remains of which are still to be seen 
at its abutment against the Temple wall — the highway or " ascent" 
of Solomon, so much admired by the Queen of Sheba. 

This spot was subsequently occupied by the Crusaders, who (if 
we may form a judgment from present indications) crowned it with 
a magnificent church, in one sense, at least, resembling a city set on 
a hill, that cannot be hid. The tent, pitched on the top of one of 
the houses, now jumbled on its ruins, covers one of the circular sky- 



JERUSALEM — AS IT IS. 441 

Association of Mount Zion. 

lights of the ancient church ; and the little court beneath this tented 
skylight is the humble tabernacular chapel of the Mission. 

Immediately at the base of this perpendicular cliff, more than a 
hundred feet below the ancient palace, was situated the Xystus, so 
often mentioned by Josephus. By this term, we are not only to 
understand the long gallery beneath the palace, running parallel to 
the western cloister of the Temple, at a distance of about three hun- 
dred feet to the west, but also the intervening Tyropoeon, or Cheese- 
mongers' Valley of Josephus, called here, both by Josephus and the 
sacred writers, the suburbs (and truly the situation is literally sub 
urbe) — Mount Zion overhanging it on one side, to the height of 
one or two hundred feet, and Mount Moriah nearly as much on the 
other. It seems originally to have been mainly appropriated to 
gymnastic purposes, but in process of time evidently became the 
theater of the grand Jewish convocations, for the discussion of 
great national concerns. Hence it was probably the place where 
Herod the Great convened the Jews to consider his proposition for 
the reedification of the Temple. And here it certainly was that 
King Agrippa assembled the Hosts of Israel, to address them on 
the occasion of their rebellion against their oppressive Roman 
masters, the circumstances of which Josephus details, as well as the 
king's speech, in the 16th chapter of the Second Book of the Wars 
of the Jews. 

It was across this portion of the Tyropoeon occupied by the 
Xystus that Titus caused Josephus to remonstrate with the infatu- 
ated Jews, after he had dispossessed them of the Temple ; and 
across it also that Marc Antony held his celebrated parley with that 
stubborn people after he had captured Mount Zion — the bridge, in 
each instance, having been broken down. 

Many other circumstances concur to invest this place with pecu- 
liar interest in the eyes of the Jews. But the bare probability that 
it was just at this spot that the great "promise" was made unto us 
(Gentiles) and our children, and to all that are afar off, is calculated 
to invest it with a thousand-fold more interest in the eye of every 



442 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Mount Zion. 

Christian. And that it really was just to this place of assembly 
that the "multitude came together," attracted by the " sound from 
Heaven, as of a rushing mighty wind," and were there addressed 
by the Apostle Peter, on the ever memorable day of Pentecost, is 
in the highest degree probable. Indeed, with Josephus in one hand, 
and the Bible in the other, I am utterly unable to arrive at any 
other conclusion than that the devout representatives of the Jews 
in every nation under heaven amongst which they were scattered, 
were here gathered together when the terms of the new Dispensa- 
tion were announced by the Apostle Peter. Indeed, so far as we 
can learn, there was no other place of convocation in all the city, 
where such a vast multitude could be accommodated, except the 
Temple ; and most obvious is it that the circumstances narrated 
could not have transpired there. The " Law of the Lord," embody- 
ing the new institution, was ordained to go forth, according both to 
Isaiah and Micah, not only from Jerusalem, but " out of" that part 
of the city called Mount Zion. And where else could the adorable 
Redeemer have been more appropriately justified of the Spirit than 
just at this point, directly opposite the Temple — to the utter confu- 
sion of the stiff-necked hierarchs of disannulled Judaism, and 
"the betrayers and murderers of the Prince of Life!" The 
" upper room" to which the Apostles " went up," after they had wit- 
nessed the Ascension, was probably the "one place' in which they 
were assembled when the day of Pentecost was fully come, and may 
have been situated on this very brow of Zion ; and had they but 
stepped forth upon Solomon's Bridge, what a noble pulpit would 
that elegant structure of " the King that was Preacher in Jerusa- 
lem," have been for the delivery of the great message of salvation 
with which these heaven-coronated ambassadors were charged ! 

The reader is candidly informed that the foregoing locations of 
sites and events are entirely different from those of all former Bib- 
lical antiquaries and topographers ; but it must also be remarked 
that the investigations resulting in these conclusions have been con- 
ducted in the enjoyment of advantages and facilities never hereto- 



JERUSALEM — AS IT IS. 443 
Mount Zion. 

fore possessed by any explorer of the " Sacred Localities." The 
photograph — of which the wood cut is an exact transcript — was 
taken from the embankment of the "causeway" upon which the 
lower part of Temple street is situated. Immediately in the fore- 
ground is the top of a Mugrabin house, upon which a few pieces of 
clothing are suspended for drying. The pointed dome-building, 
farther on in the foreground, is a well or mausoleum of a Moslem 
santon. In the elevated garden in the middle-ground, a man is 
seen looking through a hole in a large rock, that serves the double 
purpose of window and chimney to the bakeries and mills — several 
of which there are beneath this garden — and are entered by doors 
in the wall along the street, where an Arab is seen riding a camel. 
The pottery aqueduct, that brings water from Solomon's Pools to 
the great mosk, enters the city beneath the wall beyond the 
farthest copse of cactus, and passing along just at the foot of the 
old palm, penetrates by a channel cut through the solid rock on 
which the Mission premises are situated ; and issuing through the 
lowest door seen in one of the corners of the house, passes along 
the base of Mount Zion into the Haram, via the causeway. The 
two elevated windows in the most projecting part of the Mission 
premises (above which there is also a smaller one), give light to the 
haekh??ieh, or dispensary of the Mission. The distant hill seen over 
the city wall, by the Mugrabin Gate, is the top of one of « the moun- 
tains round about Jerusalem," on the south. 

The locations of the leading synagogues, lection and transcrip- 
tion rooms, are indicated on the large map of the city : two or three 
of them are quite large, but very plain and indifferent buildings. 

The open space called " Deir" marks the site of an old convent, 
some portions of which, on the east, are still standing, though miser- 
ably patched ; and at a short distance, in the rear, is an old ecclesi- 
astical building — a dilapidated portion of which is observed on look- 
ing at the view of the American Christian Mission premises. It is 
indicated by the two farthest windows. It would seem to be one of 
the St. Peter's Churches built by the Franks. The remains of ano- 



444 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Jewish Quarter. Christian Quarter. 

ther of these old Crusaders' churches may be found near the Jewish 
Bazaar, contiguous to the minaret and mosque on the south. 

The public school of the Jews is kept in a building occupying the 
south-west corner of the city.* 

The Jewish dispensary, under the able management of a liberal- 
minded German Hebrew physician, Dr. Frankel, situated in the 
north-west portion of the Jewish Quarter, is the only other public 
building in this quarter worthy of mention. 

Few travellers possess sufficient nerve to pass, or even approach 
the vicinity of the shambles, but the little pottery, midway between 
this disgusting place and the lepers' huts — though altogether unin- 
viting and insignificant in appearance — will scarcely fail to recall 
the 18th chapter of Jeremiah's prophecy, and excite in the reflec- 
tive mind of the Scripture reader profitable reminiscences and 
reflections. 

This quarter of the city, though assigned to one-half of the entire 
population, is by far the smallest, being about one-third the size of 
the Christian, and one-fifth that of the Mohammedan. It is by far 
the filthiest and most unhealthy — the very home of squalid poverty 
and wretchedness. A few families, however, of the better class 
dwell by sufferance in other parts of the city ; and these are suffici- 
ciently numerous in the immediately adjacent portion of the Arme- 
nian Quarter, to have a reading-room. 

Amongst the accumulated heaps of filth and rubbish along the 
city wall, east of Zion Gate, the traveller will observe with mingled 
emotions of pity and disgust the tabooed row of huts appropriated 
to the lepers. 

II. Christian Quarter. — This division of the city may be farther 
subdivided into the Armenian, Latin, and Greek sections — the 
Armenian occupying all below the Jaffa or David street, the Greek 
the north-eastern portion, and the Latin mainly the western and 

* The credit of the large hospital now the munificent donation of a wealthy Jew of 
being erected on the hill west of the " Lower New Orleans — Mr. Touro. 
Pool of Gihon," is due in great measure to 



445 



Christian Quarter. Armenian. 




I'ALACE OF ARMENIAN PATRIARCH — AND CONVENT OF ST. JAMES. 



central parts. All the public buildings and places of interest are 
indicated on the large map. 

Armenian. — The Armenian Convent is one of the largest estab- 
lishments in the city. It occupies several square acres in the centre 
of the quarter ; and is capable of entertaining about eight thou- 
sand pilgrims. 

The Armenian Church of St. James (brother of John). This con- 
vent is a fine building and gorgeously decorated within ; but most of 
the pictures and ornaments are tawdry and puerile in the extreme ; 
and some of them are absolutely idolatrous and blasphemous. 

The Patriarchal Palace, a short distance south of the Church, 
is a new and quite elegant building. 

The Armenian Hospital is another new and fine building, situated 
near Zion Gate. 

The Church of St. Thomas is situated on the street immediately 
north of the convent, but is disused at present. 

The Church of Yacobeiah (St. James the Less) in the rear of the 



446 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Christian Quarter. Armenian. 

English Church, is also claimed by the Armenians. The Arme- 
nians are also the proprietors of the large irregular conventual 
building, just outside Zion Gate, called the Palace of Caiaphas the 
High Priest, once known as the Church of St. Salvator. " Here 
under the altar," says Maundrel, " (and they repeat the same story to 
this day), is deposited the very stone which was laid to secure the 
door of our Saviour's sepulchre.* * * It is two yards and a quarter 
long, high one yard, and broad as much. It is plastered all over, 
except in five or six little places, where it is left bare to receive the 
immediate kisses and other devotions of pilgrims. Here, likewise, 
is shown a little cell, said to have been our Lord's prison, till the 
morning, when he was carried from hence before Pilate, and also the 
place where Peter was frightened into a denial of his Master. The 
< Coenaculum' may also be conveniently mentioned here. This 
6 upper room' where tradition says the last passover was kept, and 
the Lord's Supper instituted, is to be seen, in virtue of a good buck- 
shish, in the second story of one of the rooms of the jumble of 
buildings called Neby Daud, a short distance from the House of 
Caiaphas." 

Tradition also locates the Tomb of David here, immediately 
beneath the Coenaculum, and hence it is that none but the elite of 
Islam are permitted to reside in this revered hamlet. 

The Greek Convent of St. George {the Hebrew), and Dier el 
Zeitun (Convent of the Olives), are in the south-eastern part of 
this quarter ; as well as the Syrian Convent and Chureh of St. 
Mark. 

Just above the Church of St. George, is a Church of the Crusa- 
ders (that of Mount Zion), in a tolerable state of preservation ; and 
some distance farther north the Beading -Room of the Polish Jews. 
The extensive gardens attached to the convent, form a very pleasant 
place of retreat, where some of the clergy while away a portion of 
their time very pleasantly. The upper portion of this quarter is 
mostly appropriated by the English and Prussians. 

" Christ's Church," as the Anglican Cathedral is called, is situa- 



JERUSALEM— AS IT IS. 447 
Christian Quarter. Anglican Cathedral and Hospital. 

ted very conspicuously in the north-western corner of the Armenian 
Quarter, on the grounds (in part) of the great Herodian Palace, and 
inclusive of the English Consulate — to which it is architecturally as 
well as civico-ecclesiastically united — is decidedly one of the most 
costly and magnificent edifices of modern erection in the city. 

Quite a large parcel of land is attached to the church, upon which 
there are various offices, gardens, &c, all the property of the London 
Jews' Society. 

The English Hospital, a large, well appointed, ably managed, 
and liberally endowed establishment, under the faithful and long- 
continued superintendance of Dr. McGowan, is situated in the 
north-east corner of this quarter. 

The Prussian Hospice occupies a very eligible position on the 
northern border of the Armenian Quarter, and is under very excel- 
lent management, chiefly in charge of female medical nurses. 

The Greeks are much wealthier in ecclesiastical property than the 
Latins, as may be seen by comparing the following schedule — inde- 
pendently of their interest in the pile aggregated around the Church 
of the Holy Sepulchre, which, however, is by no means incon- 
siderable : — 

The Church and Convent of Gethsemane, immediately in front of 
the Church of the Holy Sepulchre : 

The Church and Convent of St. John the Forerunner, occupying 
the southern end of the large square lately presented to the French 
Emperor by the Sultan : 

The Convent of Constantine, separated from the Holy Sepulchre 
Square, only by Patriarch Street : 

Grreek Church between the Latin Convent and that of Constan- 
tine : 

Greek Convent on opposite side of the street : 
Archimandrites' Residence adjoining : 
Adjacent Greek Nunnery : 
Nunnery and Almshouse of St. Basil : 

Convent of St. Theodore, adjoining the Casa Nuova Buildings : 



448 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Christian Quarter. Various public buildings. 

(Jlmrch of Schismatics : 

School Buildings near Jaffa Gate : 

The Consulate of Russia, on the opposite side of the street from 
the Church of Constantine. 

But besides these properties in that quarter, the Greek Church 
also owns the Qhurch of St. George in the Armenian portion of the 
Christian Quarter ; and a church of the same name on the hill about 
three hundred yards east of el-Khalah ; also at the Convent of the 
Cross, and Mar Elias, &c. 

The Copts have a small convent adjoining their fine, large Cara- 
vanserai, on the north of the Pool of Hezekiah, and a chapel imme- 
diately in the rear of the reputed rock Calvary, as well as a claim 
upon some valuable property adjoining the Church of the Holy 
Sepulchre on the east, called Dier es-Sultan. 

The London Jews' Society own some very valuable property not 
far from Damascus Gate, called the House of Industry, where its 
neophytes are well maintained and taught some handicraft occupa- 
tion. The Anglican Bishop resides in this quarter, until his palace 
can be erected. His residence is hard by that of His Grace the 
Latin Patriarch. 

There are two minarets and moshs in this quarter — the one situ- 
ated immediately in the rear, and the other just in front of the 
Church of the Holy Sepulchre — very much to the annoyance of 
the Christian pilgrims, as well as the native Christians. The one 
on the south is the celebrated Khanhey Minaret. 

The Hammam el-Batrarch, or Pool of Hezekiah, is situated 
between a row of houses on the west side of Patriarch street, and 
the residences of their Graces of England and Rome ; and though 
not accessible by any street, may be readily seen by entering the 
large new hotel, or any one of the shops on its eastern side, or still 
better from the top of the Coptic Convent. 

A Bathing Establishment on the east of Patriarch street is sup- 
plied with water drawn from this pool in leathern buckets, and con- 
ducted across the street in an arch-shaped aqueduct. 



JERUSALEM — AS I T I S. 449 
Christian Quarter. Latin possessions. 

Latin. — The Church of the Holy Sepulchre and adjacent build- 
ings, occupy a large part of the great square contained between a 
portion of the Via Dolorosa, Patriarch street, Palmer street, and 
the street leading south from Damascus Gate — somewhat between 
the Latin and Greek districts of the Christian Quarter. It is un- 
questionably an object of more general interest than any other in 
all that quarter, or any in the whole city, with the single exception 
of the Mosk of Omar ; but a minute description of this colossal 
mausoleum will be found in the chapter on sepulchral monuments. 

Besides the interest which the Latins have in the massive pile of 
building, known under the general appellation of the Church of the 
Holy Sepulchre, which is almost paramount at this time, they possess 
the following edifices : — 

The extensive and well furnished " Convent of St. John the 
Divine," in the north-west corner, conspicuously erected on the 
highest ground in the city. The Latin Nunnery in the same neigh- 
borhood : the Cam Nuova or Hostelry of the Convent, separated 
from it only by a street: a kind of hotel, designed not only for 
sheltering Latin pilgrims, but for the entertainment of all kinds of 
travellers. 

The well-conducted French Hospital, near the Coptic Convent, 
enjoying the able services of the talented Dr. Mendelsohn. The 
Palatial Residence of the Patriarch, near Jaffa Gate. The ruins 
of the Palace of the Hospitallers, east of the Church of the Sepul- 
chre, which, together with the large square in which it is situated, 
have been lately presented to Louis Napoleon, the avowed patron 
of the Romish Church in the East. The traveller will linger a 
long while admiring the ornate and elaborately carved gate of this 
renowned establishment, despite the yelping of dogs and the abomi- 
nable stench issuing from the tannery on the opposite side of the 
street, and the accumulations of filth within. 

The Church of St. Anne, near St. Stephen's Gate, also lately 
presented to the French Emperor. The Latins also own the Church 
of the Flagellation, adjoining which is Bier el Addas. 
29 



450 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Moslem Quarter and subdivisions. 

There is a Weli in the north-west corner of the city, where the 
body of a Moslem saint reposes ; and near it is " Qoliath Tower" 
or the Castle of Tancred, as it is sometimes called. 

The Sardinian Consulate is just above the Latin Convent. The 
large court and appendages east of the Church St. Sepulchre, 
called Dier es-Sultan, are occupied by the Copts and Syrians; but 
regarded as the property of the Sultan. Beneath is the large pool, 
called the " Treasury of Helena." 

III. Muhammedan Quarter. — This quarter may be very conveni- 
ently subdivided into four or five parts — the Turkish, situated on 
Bezetha Hill and the lower part of Akra ; the Arab, in the north- 
eastern corner of the city, and the Mograbin in that part of the 
Tyropoeon lying between the Haram and Mount Zion ; to which may 
be also added the Turkish fort and barracks called el Khalah, and 
the Haram ash-Sheriff. 

The Mekhemeh or City Hall, located probably on the site of the 
ancient council chamber, is situated on the causeway in the extreme 
south-east corner of the Turkish division, and adjoins the Haram. 

On the opposite side of the street is the the residence of the Cadi 
or Chief Judge, and also that of 

The Bashhatib or Secretary of the City. There is also a clerk's 
office in the establishment of Abu Seud, opposite the American 
Mission premises. But the portion of that pile of buildings located 
within the Haram wall is, at least, the representative of the Con- 
vent of FaJchr — founded by a Coptic convert. 

The Pasha's Establishment is on the western side of the Haram, 
near the north-west corner ; and here the Divan Hffendi also has 
his office in the same cluster of buildings ; in which also is the city 
prison. 

The Kaim MaJcam, Bim Pasha or Military Governor, resides in 
the Seraglio or Serai, near the corner of the Haram, on the north 
side — the site of the celebrated fortress of Antonia. 

Besides the three mosJcs connected with the Haram, there are 
two others in this quarter, both on Bezetha Hill. The mosk 



JERUSALEM — AS IT IS. 



Turkish Quarter. 



Public edifices. 



451 




THE SERAI (SERAGLIO) THE RESIDENCE OP THE MILITARY GOVERNOR — 



ON THE SITE OP FORT ANTONIA. 



attached to the upper one — that of Melawieh, which is very large 
and conspicuously situated, is an old church, the paintings on whose 
walls are occasionally exposed by the peeling off of the plaster 
with which they were concealed in transforming the church into a 
cnosk. There are eleven mosks in Jerusalem and its immediate 
environs. 

The Turkish Hospital is situated a short distance from the Pasha's 
residence on the street leading to Damascus Gate. 

The Custom House is immediately north of the Jaffa Gate. 

Quarantine, until quite recently, was performed at Jeremiah s 
Cave ; but at this time respectable travellers are permitted to 
undergo quarantine in their own tents at any point they may select 
a short distance from the city, while Arabs and Turks of the lower 



452 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Turkish Quarter. 

order are cast into the deep fosse of Hippicus to serve out their 
sanatory term as best they can — entirely unsheltered. 

El Tekiyeh [Helena's Hospital or rather Hospice), a very fine and 
extensive building (though now somewhat ruinous), is used as a soup 
establishment for the poor, and is situated upon the slope of Akra 
on Sitte street, a short distance west of the Pasha's residence. 
Opposite to the northern entrance of the Pasha's premises is a large 
Khan or convent for Moslem pilgrims from India and Tartary. 

A short distance south of the Pasha's residence, on the street 
leading from el-Tekiyeh to the Haram, is the « College for blind 
Der wishes" 

There are several large Bathing Establishments in this quarter 
of the city — one at St. Stephen's Gate, supplied by a trench lead- 
ing from a pool just without the wall — another at the east end of 
the Cotton Bazaar, supplied from the Bir esh-Shefa or Well of Heal- 
ing, and another at the western extremity, the water for which is 
mainly brought from the Pool of Siloam. The largest and finest 
by far, was that of King Baldwin at the junction of the streets lead- 
ing from Damascus and St. Stephen's Gates, but it is now in a some- 
what dilapidated condition. The stable supplies the fuel with which 
the water of all these baths is heated. 

There are several very beautiful Saracenic Fountains in the lower 
part of this quarter — one at St. Stephen's Gate, another opposite 
the door of the Mekhemeh, and two others at intermediate points 
along the street running parallel to the western side of the Haram. 
The accompanying view of that at the Mekhemeh will convey a 
correct idea of these fontal structures. 

Near the lower corner of the Serai, close by a square tower of 
Jewish architecture, is a Mohammedan wely much revered ; there is 
also another very jealously watched, near a large house of curious 
architecture, on the cross street south-west of Helena's Hospital, 
as well as several others along the western wall of the Haram. They 
not only contain the remains of some celebrated Moslem saints, but 
are also used for devotional purposes. 



Turkish Quarter. 



JERUSALEM — AS I T I S. 



Churches, Convents, Consulates, <fcc. 



453 




SARACENIC FOUNTAIN. 



Opposite the Serai is the Church of Flagellation, the property 
of the Latins ; and just to the east, Dier el Addas, which seems to 
be yet in the hands of the Mohammedans. There is a large church 
in ruins on the side of Bezetha Hill in the north-eastern portion of 
this quarter, called Mahmooneh — used in part as a pottery, where 
a much revered imprint of a foot is found on a rock. It was doubt- 
less one of the " Mary churches,'" and gave name at one time to all 
that part of the city — " Merie." Considerable remains of a church 
are found between Baldwin's Bath and the Serai. The Church of 
St. Anne, now said to be the property of Louis Napoleon, is in a 
tolerable state of repair, but has become decidedly hermaphroditish 
in undergoing so many transitions between Romanism and Islamism. 

There are three Consulates situated in this quarter : — that of 
Prussia, on Sitte street, about midway between Helena's Hospital 
and the Church of the Holy Sepulchre ; the French, near the 



454 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Turkish Quarter. Mograbins and lepers. 

Damascus Gate; and the Austrian, a short distance south-east of 
the French, in the house first occupied by the American Christian 
Mission ; where, in recently making excavations, several rooms and 
a grotto once apparently occupied as a church, were discovered at 
a distance of fifteen feet below the surface of the ground. 

The principal khan or caravanserai in the city, is found in this 
quarter, near the large bazaars, and was once a magnificent estab- 
lishment. 

The legendary Pool of Bethesda forms the boundary line of the 
Haram for more than one-third of its extent on the north ; and was, 
doubtless, designed as the most effectual defence that could be con- 
structed at that very assailable point of the ancient Temple area. 
The eye of the tourist will be at once arrested by the traditionary 
arch, Ecce Homo, spanning the street near the north-west corner 
of the Serai ; and farther up the "Via Dolorosa," between Baldwin's 
Bath and "the house of Dives," situated at the acute angle of the 
street, near the Turkish Hospital, " the Bowl of Lazarus" will be 
noticed. 

The north-eastern part of the Mohammedan Quarter, like the 
southern, is almost houseless ; and is either appropriated to horti- 
cultural purposes, or abandoned to chapparals of cactus. 

Haret el-Mugareby is mainly peopled with negroes from the west 
of Africa — extremely black. The "Wailing Place," and other 
places of interest connected with the Temple wall being described 
in connexion with the Haram, there remains nothing worthy of 
special note in this quarter, not already noticed. 

The Leper huts, built along the city wall, east of Zion Gate, 
though so widely differing in locality, must be regarded as apper- 
taining to the Mohammedan Quarter, and should have been located 
in the outskirts of this retired spot, inhabited in part by the swarthy 
eunuchs, the conservators of the Haram enclosure. 

The villages of Silwan and Jebl Tur, being immediate dependen- 
cies of Jerusalem, may be appropriately mentioned in this connexion. 

Kefr Silwan, or the milage of Siloam, is suspended in the cliff, at 



JERUSALEM — AS I T I S. 455 
Villages of Silwan and Jebel Tdr. 

the north-western portion of that spur of Olivet called the Mount 
of Corruption, Offence, or Scandal : and surely a more corrupt, 
offensive, and scandalous set of scamps is nowhere to be found ! 
They are, with few exceptions, real troglodytes — dwelling not on]y 
in natural caves, but in the tenements of the dead, with which that 
cliff abounds — the best of their residences being mainly the hewn 
sepulchres merely faced with an ante-room of masonry. Its popu- 
lation does not probably exceed two hundred. 

The village of Jebel Tur, or Mount Olivet, is far more respectable 
than that of Siloam, both in point of architecture and inhabitants. 
It is situated on that elevation of the Mount of Olives nearest Jeru- 
salem, but not on its highest point, which is two or three hundred 
yards farther back. Near the centre of this little village, contiguous 
to the minaret and mosk, is the legendary Church of the Ascension 
— or at least all that remains of the magnificent structure erected 
by the Empress Helena. It is now the property of the Turks ; but 
is accessible to Christians, at all times, on payment of a small fee. 
All that now remains is a large octangular court, surrounded by 
a high wall and the sides of adjoining houses, along which are 
arranged altars belonging to various Christian sects, and a kebli 
for the Moslems. Upon the living rock, in a small circular chapel, 
situated in the centre of this court, is the imprint of a foot, univer- 
sally revered by pilgrims as the real impress of the Saviour's foot, 
made in springing upward to heaven — confirmation of which is 
found, by the credulous pilgrim, in the puncture made by the 
co-operating staff! 

Proceeding along the western side of the village to the south-west 
corner, the traveller, by warily watching liis opportunity, may succeed 
in effecting a furtive peep into the cave of Pelagius — a spot, which 
however highly revered both by Jews and Christian, is most jealously 
guarded against their unhallowed intrusion by the watchful eye of 
the jealous Turk, who claims it also as the resting place of one of 
his honored santons. It is here — as tradition alleges with every 
probability of truth — that the notorious courtesan Margarita of 



456 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Huldah the Prophetess. Ancient sarcophagus. 

Antioch, in the guise of a monk, spent her life in doing penance 
after her conversion, under the assumed name of Pelagius ; and here 
too the poor Magdalen finally found her resting-place. The sepul- 
chre, however, in which it is alleged by the Christians that she was 
buried, is claimed by the Jews to have been that of Huldah the 
prophetess. It is a large, plain sarcophagus of coarse marble, six 
feet eight inches in length, three feet nine inches in breadth, and 
three feet four inches in height — outside dimensions. 

The following old Greek inscription is copied from a rock in the 
cave of Pelagius: (I affix the English orthography of the words, that 
the reader not acquainted with the ancient Greek alphabet, may the 
better note the anagram contained in the second line, on comparing 
the inscription with the accompanying extract.) 



■ 


IF" 


-run"' 1 ' ""lll'\''nf!f 'f^iMilllUMl 






Tharsido 








Tharcido 


aletial 


i|i 




M 


(Do)mitela 


Ou (a/d, or 1) isathan 


1 i ' 

t 


\0 Y A'"1C A 


4 


Oudithacan 


toe 




1 X 7 T C 


ill 


a toe 



" Put thy faith in God, Douiitela : no human creature is immortal." 

There is a very valuable stone here like that at Neby Kamah — 
placed like that too, as a lintel over the door. Who knows but that 
it once figured amongst the precious stones of the Temple ! Its 
shape and material may well justify the conjecture that it once 
formed part of the low wall separating the Court of the Priests from 
that of Israel, or the Court of the Gentiles from the inner portions 
of the Temple. 

NETHER JERUSALEM. 

Subterranean Passages, Excavations, Caves, $c. — The citizens of 
Jerusalem tell marvelous tales about its subterranean passages, 
galleries, and halls : and that there are many passages perforating 



JERUSALEM — AS IT IS. 457 
Nether Jerusalem. Conduits and subterranean passages. 

the city in various directions, is expressly stated by Josephus. The 
Talmud also mentions that "there were not a few caves in the city 
hollowed out of the rock; but this subject having but slightly 
engaged the attention of explorers, we have as yet but little reliable 
information on this point ; and they probably lie at such a depth 
that they will not be brought to light for many years. Of the 
various subterraneous passages mentioned by Josephus or incident- 
ally alluded to in the Bible, some were designed for the conveyance 
of water, whilst others were clearly intended for use in time of war. 
The aqueduct conveying water into the Pool of Siloam has long 
been known ; and has been fully explored and described by Drs. 
Robinson and Smith. Professor Johns has also partially explored a 
similar conduit passing from the neighborhood of Hippicus down 
towards the Temple. But the rock-hewn conduit of Hezekiah, by 
which he brought the waters of Gihon into the city, has never as yet 
been exposed to view at any point, unless the channel entering that 
between the Virgin's Fount and Siloam be a portion of it. (See 
Virgin s Fount.) 

There is quite an extensive conduit running from Damascus Gate 
down the Valley street through the city at the depth of fifteen or 
twenty feet below the surface ; but it is evidently a mere sewer for 
draining all that part of the city. This drain discharges its contents 
at present a short distance below the Mugrabin Gate ; but originally 
must have made its exit below the southernmost portion of the city. 
It was through this passage that the Fellahin effected an entrance 
into the city during the war of Ibraham Pasha and captured it — 
emerging from it at a point not far from the Cotton Bazaar. I have 
penetrated about one-half its length; and can truly testify, that 
though the poor creatures may have regarded it as a mere pleasure 
trip, yet I certainly had rather an ugly time of it. 

I made an effort to explore a subterranean passage commencing 
in the premises of a Rabbi on Mount Zion, formerly a church of the 
Crusaders (Zion Church, I think), which he assured me led into the 
country almost two hours. But I found it so much obstructed by 



458 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING 



Unknown subterranean passages. 

rocks and debris, that I was compelled to abandon it after going a 
short distance. My success in exploring the subterranean passage 
that issues from the ground underneath the upper Kedron Bridge, 
(by St. Mary's Church) — said to lead to the northern side of the city, 
was no better — for I was glad enough to abandon it after crawling 
on hands and knees fifty or a hundred yards, where I found day- 
light gleaming in through some of the loosened rocks above. An 
account will be found, in connexion with the exploration of the Vir- 
gin's Fount, of a channel which I explored from that place to a point 
within a short distance of the Mugrabin Gate, where it turned abruptly 
to the west, and became too much choked with rubbish and earth to 
allow farther penetration. The use to which this passage was 
originally appropriated yet remains a mystery : it would rather 
appear, however, that its design was to discharge surplus water into 
the Ophel channel, in order that it might be reservoired in the Pool 
of Siloam, instead of flowing directly out of the city and thus being 
lost : and may possibly be the continuation of Hezekiah's channel. 

Having often heard it positively asserted, that persons had actually 
entered a cave near Beit Hanina about four or five miles from the 
city, and traversed it to its termination in Jerusalem, I determined 
to venture on the subterranean excursion ; but soon became so 
bewildered in its damp labyrinths, that I was glad to effect a safe 
retreat, and abandon the hope of successfully exploring it. 

But, though foiled in many attempts to ferret out the regions of 
the nether city, my efforts were quite successful in effecting an 
entrance into a very large excavation beneath Mount Bezetha. And 
inasmuch as there have been rather discrepant accounts of this dis- 
covery, I will insert an account of its exploration, written for a Phi- 
ladelphia journal,* by a member of our Mission : — f 

" The Nazir Effendi (a State-Church dignitary, only a few grades 
below the Pasha), while admiring the fine view from the terrace of 

* The Ladies' Christian Annual, edited by James Challen, the gifted author of the 
" Cave of Macbpelah," &c., <fcc. 
| Dr. R. G. Barclay. 



JERUSALEM — AS IT IS. 



459 



Discovery of an immense quarry cavern. 




our house, remarked that ancient Jerusalem was several strata below 
the superficies of the present city ; and that it would be interesting 
to explore the magnificent subterranean remains of the gorgeous 
palaces of King David, Solomon, and various other monarchs of 
former times, — could an entrance but be effected. Having received 
some intimation of the existence of an entrance to a very extensive 
cave near the Damascus Gate (entirely unknown to Franks), we 
resolved upon its exploration, on the strength of the Nazir's per- 
mission. Accordingly, a few days afterwards, father, brother, and 
myself repaired thither ; and after several hours of vain labor, find- 
ing it utterly impossible to effect an entrance unperceived in the 
open light of day, we concluded to return in the shades of the 
evening — resolving to pass the night under Jerusalem in making a 
thorough exploration. 



460 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Nocturnal adventure beneath Jerusalem. 

" Having provided ourselves with all the requisites for such a fur- 
tive adventure — matches, candles, compass, tape-line, paper, and 
pencils — a little previous to the time of closing the gates of the 
city, we sallied out at different points, the better to avoid exciting 
suspicion, and rendezvoused at Jeremiah's Pool, near to which we 
secreted ourselves within a white enclosure surrounding the tomb of 
a departed Arab Sheik, until the shades of darkness enabled us to 
approach unperceived, — when we issued from our hiding-place, amid 
the screeching of owls, screaming of hawks, howling of jackals, 
and the chirping of nocturnal insects. The mouth of the cavern 
being immediately below the city wall and the houses on Bezetha, 
we proceeded cautiously in the work of removing the dirt, mortar, 
and stones ; and, after undermining and picking awhile, a hole (com- 
menced a day or two previous by our dog) was made, though scarcely 
large enough for us to worm our way serpentinely through the ten- 
foot wall. 

" On scrambling through and descending the inner side of the 
wall, we found our way apparently obstructed by an immense mound 
of soft dirt, which had been thrown in, the more effectually to close 
up the entrance ; but, after examining awhile, discovered that it 
had settled down in some places sufficiently to allow us to crawl 
over it on hand and knee ; which having accomplished, we found 
ourselves enveloped in thick darkness, that might be felt, but not 
penetrated by all our lights, so vast is the hall. 

"For some time we were almost overcome with feelings of awe 
and admiration (and I must say apprehension, too, from the immense 
impending vaulted roof), and felt quite at a loss to decide in which 
direction to wend our way. There is a constant and in many places 
very rapid descent from the entrance to the termination, the dis- 
tance between which two points, in a nearly direct line, is seven 
hundred and fifty feet ; and the cave is upwards of three thousand 
feet m circumference, supported by great numbers of rude natural 
pillars. At the southern extremity there is a very deep and pre- 
cipitous pit, in which we received a very salutary warning of caution 



JERUSALEM — AS IT IS. 



461 



Singular skull. Human skeleton. 

from the dead — a human skeleton ! supposed to be that of a person 
who, not being sufficiently supplied with lights, was precipitated 
headlong and broke his neck, or rather his skull, I should judge, 
from the fracture I noticed on picking it up ! There is also near 
this pit a basin excavated in the solid rock, about five feet in dia- 
meter and two and a half feet deep, into which the percolating 
water trickles ; but it was in vain we tried to quench our thirst with 
water of such bitter, disagreeable taste. A little, however, was 
bottled for analysis. Water was everywhere dropping from the 
lofty ceiling, which had formed numerous small stalactites and 
stalagmites — some of them very resplendent and beautiful, but too 
fragile to be collected and preserved. 

" We noticed bats clinging to the ceiling in several places, in 
patches varying from fifty to a hundred and fifty, hanging together, 
which flew away at our too near approach, and for some time con- 
tinued to flit and scream round and about our heads in rather dis- 
agreeable propinquity. Numerous crosses marked on the wall indi- 
cated that, though unknown to Christendom of the present day, the 
devout Pilgrim or Crusader had been there ; and a few Arabic and 
Hebrew inscriptions (though too much effaced to be deciphered) 
proved that the place was not unknown to the Jew and Arab. 
Indeed, the manner in which the beautiful white solid limestone rock 
was everywhere carved by the mason's rough chisel into regular 
pillars, proved that this extensive cavern, though in part natural, 
was formerly used as the grand quarry of Jerusalem. 

" Also, from the close correspondence in the strata of rock in 
this cave and the opposite hill, we came to the conclusion that this 
cavern and the Grotto of Jeremiah, two or three hundred yards dis- 
tant (the intermediate hill having been carried away for the con- 
struction of the city wall, Temple, &c), constituted one immense 
cave. There are many intricate meandering passages leading to 
immense halls, as white as the driven snow, and supported by 
colossal pillars of irregular shape — some of them placed there by 
the hand of nature, to support the roof of the various grottos, others 



462 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Temple quarry (?). 

evidently left by the stone quarrier in quarrying the rock to prevent 
the intumbling of the city. Such reverberations I never heard 
before ! 

" Though disappointed in our fond expectations of working our 
way to the Sanctum Sanctorum, Hippicus, or Antonia, as we had 
vaguely conjectured we might be enabled to do, we were neverthe- 
less highly delighted with our little jaunt in nether Jerusalem. 

" From the former entrance of the cave down to the Temple area 
is a gentle inclined plane — a fact that suggests a satisfactory solu- 
tion of what has heretofore been regarded as a very puzzling ques- 
tion — the difficulty of placing such immense masses of rock in situ> 
as those found at the south-east and south-west corners of the Tem- 
ple wall. 

" We entered the cave at 7 P. M., with the intention of passing the 
night in its dark recesses ; but after making a plan, were so fatigued 
that we concluded, that were we to yield ourselves to the influ- 
ence of Somnus, the rising sun would probably reveal to the jealous 
Mussulmans the opened entrance to the scene of our nocturnal 
adventure. Therefore, at 2 A. m., we repaired to an old vacated 
oil-mill adjacent, and having kindled a brush and grass fire, passed 
the remainder of the night in a state of no little discomfiture — long- 
ing for the light of morning. 

" The numerous burrows, into which w T e so often sank knee-deep, 
served to confirm the construction we had put upon the report made 
to us by our faithful dog in this arduous reconnoissance — and proved 
that here 'the foxes had holes,' as well as 4 the birds of the air 
their nests' — for the bones that lay strewn about proved that the 
voracious jackal was now the 4 lord of this manor,' whose intermin- 
able halls had for centuries resounded to the busy din of the ham- 
mer and chisel. What untold toil was represented by the vast piles 
of blocks and chippings, over which we had to clamber in making 
our exploration ! A melancholy grandeur — at once exciting and 
depressing — pervaded these vast saloons. This, without doubt, is 
the very magazine from which much of the Temple rock was hewn — 



JERUSALEM — AS IT IS. 



463 



Supposed earthquake. 

the pit from which was taken the material for the silent growth of 
the Temple. How often, too, had it probably been the last place of 
retreat to the wretched inhabitants of this guilty city in the agoniz- 
ing extremities of her various overthrows ! It will probably yet 
form the grave of many that are living over it ! for the work of dis- 
integration and undermining is going on surely, though slowly. 
We can now account for a terrible fright we all felt one Sunday 
evening, which caused our little Bible class to break up and retreat 
to the court in great alarm. We had always been under the 
impression that it was the shock of a distant earthquake — though 
we could but think it strange that it was felt more severely on 
Bezetha Hill than elsewhere : but the immense masses of rock which 
had evidently fallen quite recently from the ceiling of one of the 
unsustained halls, plainly declared that they had made the earth to 
quake — at some period, if not at the time alluded to — and the Mission 
premises being situated only a few yards from the southern extre- 
mity of the cave, had of course felt the concussion very sensibly." 

In the following humorous and graphic account, taken from the 
Boston Traveller, will be found some additional particulars and 
reflections of interest: — 

" It has long been more than suspected that a gallery of this 
quarry extended under the wall of the city itself, but nothing was 
positively known regarding it, as it has been kept carefully closed 
by the sucessive governors of Jerusalem. The mouth of the cavern 
was probably walled up at least as early as the times of the crusades, 
to prevent its falling into the hands of a besieging army ; earth was 
then thrown up against this wall, so as effectually to conceal it from 
view, and it is only upon the closest scrutiny that the present 
entrance can be perceived. 

" Drs. Smith and Robinson, during their tour through Palestine, 
made an effort to effect an entrance, but in vain, and so far as I 
know, all other attempts have been equally unsuccessful, until about 
a year ago, when the dog of an American gentleman, a resident of 
Jerusalem, attracted by the smell of some animal, scratched a hole 



464 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Interesting acccount of the Quarry Care. 

just at the surface of the ground and suddenly disappeared ; he soon 
came back, and his master attempted an exploration, but owing to 
the want of candles he was obliged to give up the attempt. He 
returned, however, with his sons and a servant just about sunset, and, 
allowing themselves to be locked out of the city, they succeeded 
without attracting observation, in descending and making a survey 
of the whole extent. The report of this was soon bruited abroad, 
and before the authorities took any action in the matter it was 
visited by several parties, and by ours among the number. 

" The afternoon on which we proposed to explore the quarry, I 
returned to my hotel from a walk, and changing my clothes, was 
soon equipped and ready for the rest of the party, when a waiter 
informed me that they had been gone some minutes. Fearful of 
missing the only opportunity I should have, I ran down into the 
street and hastened along in the direction of the gate, in perfect 
ignorance of the proper way, when fortunately I met the servant of 
the American Vice Consul, who had already served me as guide and 
showman, but always through the medium of an interpreter. Sum- 
moning to my aid almost the only Arabic words I knew, I shouted 
'Bab el Shem,' or 'The Damascus Gate.' He understood me, 
and turning set off as fast as his dignity, his large trowsers, and his 
crooked sword would permit him. As we turned out of the gate I 
saw the rest of the party standing at a little distance, preparing for 
the descent, and immediately joined them. 

" There was a good deal of dispute among us, as to which of the 
Franks should have the honor of leading the party, but as we found 
all were anxious to see Dr. M., a tall and very pompous man, hum- 
ble himself, the question was soon decided. An Arab servant was 
the pioneer, and you can hardly imagine our astonishment when we 
saw him lie flat on his face, and worm himself feet foremost into a 
hole, into which a man with his arms by his sides could not possibly 
have inserted his shoulders. Next came the doctor, who was dressed 
in a drab overcoat, cut in the height of the present fashion ; turning 
the long skirts up over his back, he prostrated himself amid the shouts 



JERUSALEM — AS IT IS 465 
Traveller's account of the Cave. 

and laughter of the lookers-on. First there was a digging of the 
toes into the ground and a pulling, then a pushing with the elbows. 
Slowly and with difficulty was the feat performed, and the agonized 
look of the poor man, as he took the last look of earth, was inde- 
scribably ludicrous. 

" My turn soon came, and it was certainly the most awkward posi- 
tion in which I ever found myself : but after a few minutes' struggling 
and kicking, I was seized by the ankle, and my foot guided down- 
ward to a crevice in the wall, along the top of which I had been 
crawling. The passage was some ten feet in length, and from the 
top of the wall to the loam upon which we stood, was some six feet. 
At first all was utter darkness, but my eyes soon became accustomed 
to the obscurity ; and lighting my candle, I was ready for a start by 
the time the last of the party joined us. 

» For a few rods the descent was very rapid down a slope of rich 
loam, but soon we began to ascend over immense heaps of rubble 
and the chippings of hewn stone. The turnings were frequent, but 
not abrupt, the main direction being south-east. We took the pre- 
caution to fasten a clue at the entrance, which an Arab unwound as 
we advanced ; and at every turn we stopped to examine the bearings 
of our compasses, so that our progress was slow. We labored on, 
however, now running against some of the huge pillars left for the 
support of the roof, and again stumbling over some massive block, 
which we could not see in the obscurity. We followed up the 
different galleries, and examined them all thoroughly, in hope of 
finding some other outlet, but were stopped in every direction by 
the solid rock. 

" Suddenly there was a cry of < take care, here's a precipice !' 
We all pressed forward to the spot to examine it, and found our- 
selves on the edge of a pit some ten or fifteen feet deep, and about 
a hundred feet across. The floor was of rock, smooth, but ex- 
tremely uneven, the inequalities being caused by breaking off the 
blocks at the bottom, instead of cutting them away ; the roof, too, 
presented a similar appearance. Near this, at the end of a long 
30 



466 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Observations in the Quarry Cave. 

gallery, was a fountain, supplied by water dropping from the roof. 
It was delightfully cool, but unpleasant to the taste, being strongly 
impregnated with lime. 

" Our advance was, in one or two places, obstructed by the heaps 
of broken stone, which reached so near the roof, that we were 
obliged to creep on our hands and knees. I could understand well 
what a grievous penance it must be, to walk with one's shoes full of 
peas, for crawling on cobble stones is near akin to it. At the end 
of the chambers was a crevice in the rock, through which one or two 
of us squeezed, and, looking up, we thought we had discovered an 
old shaft, but, on climbing thirty feet or more, we found that it was 
a natural fissure, and had no outlet above, as we hoped. Our dis- 
appointment was lessened, however, upon discovering that the sides 
of the fissure were covered with stalactites of a rose color, and we 
immediately availed ourselves of a hammer, produced by one of the 
party, to break off specimens, with which we filled our pockets, 

« But the most interesting portion was the extreme end of the last 
chamber. Here were blocks of stone but half quarried, and still 
attached by one side to the rock. The work of quarrying was appa- 
rently effected by an instrument resembling a pickaxe, with a broad 
chisel-shaped end, as the spaces between the blocks were not more 
than four inches wide, in which it would be impossible for a man to 
work with chisel and mallet. The spaces were many of them four 
feet deep, and ten feet in height, and the distance between them 
was about four feet. After being cut away at each side, and at the 
bottom, a lever was probably inserted, and the combined force of 
three or four men could easily pry the block away from the rock 
behind ; the stone was extremely soft and pliable, nearly white, and 
very easily worked, but, like the stone of Malta and Paris, harden- 
ing by exposure. The marks of the cutting instrument were as 
plain and well defined as if the workman had but just ceased from 
his labor. 

" Having thoroughly examined every nook and corner, we turned 
back toward the entrance, examining the ground as we went. Near 



JERUSALEM — AS IT IS. 



467 



Observations in the Quarry Cave. 

a pillar in about the centre we found a quantity of bones, brought 
in by the jackals, the smell of which had first attracted the dog. We 
then looked along the surface of the wall which closed the entrance,, 
but, though the light streamed in at one or two cracks, there was 
no other hole large enough to admit even a dog ; and, satisfied that, 
we had come in at the only possible entrance, we one after another 
climbed up, and worked our way out. 

" The sun was just setting, and, blazing full in our faces, nearly 
blinded us ; as soon as we could see there was an universal shout at 
the forlorn appearance each and all of us presented. It was impos- 
sible to tell the original color of hat, cap, clothes, or hair, for we 
were covered from head to foot with lime dust, and looked like a 
company of millers. We dusted and brushed each other, but to no 
purpose ; we were marked men, and our merry party was greeted 
with many a stare by the staid old Turks, as we marched through 
the streets and bazaars. 

" Upon comparing a subsequent measurement of our guiding line, 
and the time spent in returning from the extreme end, we judged 
the length of the quarry to be rather more than a quarter of a mile, 
and its greatest breadth less than half that distance. 

" There had been some doubt expressed by one or two of the 
party, who had made a previous visit, as to its being a quarry ; but 
we all agreed that though it might originally have been a grotto, it 
had been worked, and then the question arose < By whom ?' The 
answer was, 'King Solomon,' and for this opinion there seemed to 
be many reasons. The stone is the same as that of the portions of . 
the Temple wall still remaining, and referred by Dr. Robinson to 
the period of the first building. The mouth of the quarry is but 
little below the level of the platform on which the Temple stood, 
making the transportation of the immense blocks of stone a compa- 
ratively easy task.* 



* Tyro is evidently in error on this point. The mouth of the quarry is many feet higher 
than any portion of the Temple area. 



468 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Mejr-ed-din. " Cotton Grotto." 

" The heaps of chippings which lie about show that the stone was 
dressed on the spot, which accords with the account of the building 
of the Temple : 6 And the house, when it was in building, was built 
of stone, made ready before it was brought thither ; so that there 
was neither hammer, nor axe, nor any tool of iron heard in the 
house while it was building.' The extent of the quarry, the amount 
of stone which must have been worked out there, and the size of 
some of the blocks themselves. The extreme age of the part which 
has been exposed to the action of the elements, and which dates 
back in legends and traditions to the time of Jeremiah. The fact 
that there are no other quarries of any great size near the city, and 
especially the fact that in the reign of Solomon this quarry, in its 
whole extent, was without the limits of the city. 

" Whether the hole through which we effected an entrance will be 
closed again, it is hard to say ; but it seems probable that it will, as 
the quarry lies directly under the Mohammedan Quarter of the city, 
and, in case of an insurrection of the Jews, it would be almost im- 
pregnable if taken possession of by insurgents, and at the same 
time they would have it in their power to blow up all that quarter 
of the city. I hope, however, that it may be thoroughly explored 
before the close of this season, and a better account given of it by 
some more able pen than that of a Tyro." 

I must add, that though I had never heard of the slightest tradi- 
tional hint relative to this cave until I undertook its exploration, 
yet I have since found an allusion to it in the "Description of Jeru- 
salem" by Kadi Mejr-ed-din, under the name of "Cotton Grotto." 

A dotted plan of this cave, as well as its exact location, may be 
seen on inspecting the large Map of Jerusalem. 

The Cave Edhemieneh or Grotto of Jeremiah is quite a large 
cavernous expansion beneath the opposite hill of Zahara or Mount 
of Tombs, and was, no doubt, continuous with the Bezetha Cave 
before the removal of the intervening portion of the mountain. Its 
roof is supported by two large pillars ; and being not more than 



JERUSALEM — AS I T I S. 469 

Jeremiah's Cave. 

fifty yards in depth, the whole cave is so well lighted from its large 
mouth that no artificial illumination is necessary for its exploration. 
A beautiful miniature lake covers its floor during a large portion of 
the year. There is a capacious court in front of it, enclosed by a 
substantial wall, and several well constructed houses, besides the few 
recessed domicils within the cave. It has served for many years as 
a quarantine station ; and a more isolated and pleasant place (bating 
the vicinage of the city of the dead) could not well have been 
selected. The usual order of nature is here reversed ; and the rare 
spectacle of the dead above the living may be noticed at any time. 
There seems formerly to have been a communication between the 
cave and the surface of the hill, which may once have been one of 
the strongholds of Jerusalem. It was used by the Mohammedans' 
at one time as an oratory. The polite Derwish who resides here is 
very particular in exhibiting to his visiters the exact spot where the 
prophet usually reclined, as indicated by the impression which, like 
that of Elijah at Mar Elias and the many foot-prints and hand im- 
pressions about the Holy City, remains to this day ! How much 
more impressible were the rocks in days of yore, than the people 
of this generation ! There are vast numbers of caves all around 
the city in a natural state, besides the multitudes that have been 
remodelled by the hand of art and converted into sepulchres. But 
of all the subterranean excavations and passages about the city, no 
greater interest attaches to any than to the two rock-hewn passages 
leading from the Temple, the one from the altar to the Kedron, 
by which the sacrificial blood was conducted away, and the other 
from a Temple Gate to the Tower of Antonia by which troops 
could at any time be sent into the Temple ; for the discovery of 
either of these passages would indicate the position of the sacred 
fane — the latter only approximatively, but the former exactly. All 
my efforts to explore them, however, have hitherto proved fruitless. 



CHAPTER XVII. 

NOBLE SANCTUARY. 
EL-HARAM ES-SHERLF — MESJID EL-AKSA — TEMPLE MOUNT. 

There is no place on earth concerning which there has existed a 
curiosity half so intense and prurient as that in relation to the 
sacred enclosure of the Temple, the Haram es-Sherif, which can only 
perish with the faith it typifies. But so great is the fear inspired by 
the clubs and cinietars of those blood-thirsty savages, the Mauritanian 
Africans, to whose jealous custody the entire Haram is committed, 
that few indeed have been found of sufficient temerity to hazard even 
the most furtive and cursory reconnoissance of this tabooed spot. 
It is an ascertained fact that every religious community in the Holy 
City has a firman from the Sublime Porte, empowering them to kill 
the members of any other communities intruding on their premises ; 
and that the Moslems, at least, delight to execute the decree upon 
any infidel, whether Jew or Christian, that may be caught intruding 
upon this sacred spot, is well known. So wild and ungovernable 
is their fanaticism that the protection of the Effendis is entirely 
unavailing. On making an attempt on a certain occasion to measure 
the length of the street entering the Enclosure, near the supposed 
site of the Sanhedrim, these bigoted fanatics deliberately drew a 
line across the street ten or fifteen yards from the gate of the 
Haram, and with most defiant looks and threatening gesticulations, 
declared that if I dared to set foot over the mark there drawn, they 



int. C 




om'sPillar 1^1 Vksa. Cethsemine.Mosfcaf Omar. Tomb of tteViTgiu 

JKHUSAL1M IlOl THE EABT 




JERUSALEM — AS IT IS. 



471 



Mesjid el-Aksa. 

would put me to death instantly — notwithstanding the presence of 
two influential Effendis, under whose protection I had placed myself, 
and who vainly sought to negotiate terms of accommodation, I 
scarcely need add that no portion of the lofty Haram wall was a 
more effectual barrier against my entrance than was that emphatic 
thus-far-shalt-thou-go-and-no-farther mark to my progress towards 
the gate. I knew an American gentleman so seriously injured by 
a stone-pelting that he received on unintentionally stepping into 
one of the Haram gates, notwithstanding his immediate precipitate 
retreat, that he was confined to his room for many days. A well- 
known resident physician, who, though attending one of the Haram 
officers professionally, under special protection, was so severely beaten 
for merely passing along the cloisters, that he was confined to his bed 
for many weeks in a critical condition. It is understood, however, 
since the Turko-Russian war, that permission will now be granted 
by the Pasha to travellers, on payment of a liberal buckshish, to 
walk through the enclosure under escort of soldiers. And for many 
years past all travellers who were willing to incur the expense and 
trouble of procuring an order, have been permitted to enjoy the 
privilege of viewing the enclosure from the top of the Serai or 
Governor's house. Until lately, however, no Christian or Jew, with 
a few exceptions, under peculiar circumstances, has been permitted 
to set foot within ite walls, for six long centuries. 

In 1818 Dr. Richardson was officially permitted to make a hasty 
reconnoissance of it in return for medical services rendered some of 
the dignitaries of the Haram. And in 1833, Mr. Catherwood and 
his companions, by practising a bold and hazardous ruse, obtained 
entrance to nearly every part of the Haram, often enough to exe- 
cute many valuable drawings and make quite a minute survey ; but 
unfortunately he does not seem to have made the subject a matter 
of critical study beforehand, and hence his attention was not directed 
to many matters that possess the deepest interest. I have known 
several persons well disguised to spend a few minutes, or even 
several hours, there at night, on payment of thirty or forty pounds ■ 



472 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Mr. Bartlett's ruse to explore the Harain abortive. 

in money, and a still heavier expense in conscience ; being com- 
pelled to go through the Mussulman form of prayer, bow the knee 
to Mecca, &c. : but it was found utterly impossible to accomplish 
anything, under such circumstances. 

My excellent friend, the late Mr. Bartlett, gives the following 
amusing account of his abortive effort to make a nocturnal visit to 
this all-attractive spot. 

" I will now add an account of one attempted by myself," he 
remarks, " which, though it proved abortive, may amuse the reader, 
as showing, that in spite of the bigotry of the Mussulmans in gene- 
ral, individuals are always to be found, and often of high standing, 
who are willing, for the sake of a bribe, not only to smuggle the 
infidel into the holy places, but also, rather than fail, to violate the 
established proprieties and rooted prejudices of their countrymen. 

" The agent in this instance was a character common enough in 
comedies, viz. an intriguing servant, belonging to a friend, whose 
profession as hakim brought him into contact with many of the bet- 
ter class of Moslems. By his contrivance a meeting was brought 
about, at a house on the brow of Mount Zion, looking out on the 
ruined bridge, with an old Turk, who, having been previously 
sounded, had expressed his willingness to undertake the job. On 
repairing -to the spot, I found one of the finest-looking old men I 
ever saw, with an open, benevolent countenance and a long silvery 
beard, dressed in a turban and white robes, and looking the very 
impersonation of one of the patriarchs. After mutual salutations, 
the business was opened by my interpreter, and the best means of 
effecting it were canvassed with great earnestness. As I wore 
neither beard nor moustache, and besides, had not been long enough 
in the country to get thoroughly bronzed, the old man at first pro- 
posed that I should be dressed as a Turkish woman, and walk behind 
him about the mosk. This plan, however, had its objections, and, 
on further reflection, he was struck with a most original idea, and 
certainly the last of which I should ever have thought. I was to 
come to his house after dark, apparently as a hakim sent for to 



JERUSALEM — AS IT IS. 



473 



Amusing adventure. 

prescribe for his family, with the intriguing servant carrying a bc^ 
of medicines before me, in order to lull suspicion. On arriving at 
his domicile, he would have a woman's costume all ready, in which 
I was to dress myself — a disguise, in which no doubt many more 
nefarious pranks have been played than I was about to commit 
Having put on this feminine attire, I was then to accompany his 
wives to the mosk, which would at that time be brilliantly illumi- 
nated, this being the season of Ramadan. The only difficulty, he 
said, would be to talk over his women ; but to persuade them into 
the scheme, he trusted to the efficacy of a certain five hundred 
piasters, which I promised to pay down as soon as we came back 
to his house, after the successful conclusion of the adventure. 

" I now returned home, and from the terrace of the hotel watched 
the red light fade off Mount Olivet, and heard the gun fired to give 
notice to all good Moslems that they might now lawfully eat their din- 
ners. Darkness soon invested the city, relieved only by the brilliant 
stars and the red glimmer of the lamps suspended on the tops of the 
minarets. As the time drew near when the servant was to come 
and fetch me, it now suddenly struck me that I had embarked in a 
rather hazardous affiair, without anything to justify it, but the mere 
desire of an adventure ; since it would be impossible, muffled up in 
female attire, to examine the architectural peculiarities of the mosk, 
even if the act of staring about would not of itself be enough to 
betray my disguise. In the event of discovery, there hardly could 
be a doubt that death by stoning, or some more horrible fate, would 
be the penalty inflicted upon me by the frantic mob, doubly enraged 
by the violation of the sanctity of the place, and at the indecent 
manner in which it had been effected. 

" It was, then, with no little nervousness that I listened for the 
tap at the door which was to announce the messenger. About nine 
he made his appearance, informing me that the old man had suc- 
ceeded in talking over his womankind, and that everything was in 
readiness. We then stole forth, the servant gravely preceding me, 
and carrying before him a travelling box of medicines. This pre- 



474 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Preparations for the adventure. 

caution was all but useless, for the streets were so dark that it was 
with difficulty we could grope our way ; but here and there we 
came upon a group of Turks sitting out of doors and smoking by 
the light of paper lanterns. The last of these was in the Via 
Dolorosa, near St. Ann's Church ; and I thought I recognised 
among them the ugly visage of a lad who had thrown stones at me 
in the morning for approaching too near the mosk, and who regarded 
me with a look of suspicion. 

"At length we reached the house of the old Turk. On stepping 
in, I was conducted, with an air of mystery, into an upper chamber, 
when the old Turk came forth and welcomed me. I could not but 
remark that, notwithstanding the confidence he had previously ex- 
pressed, his countenance betrayed no little agitation. He uttered, 
from time to time, a deep sigh, stroked his long beard, and, looking 
up to heaven, muttered what I understood was a prayer for the 
happy success of the enterprise. In fact, he must have been con- 
scious that, should a discovery take place, he would be certain to 
forfeit all consideration and character, even if subjected to no 
farther punishment, which, however, would most probably be the 
case. 

" The articles of female dress intended for my disguise were now 
produced, and I was invited to put them on. The first difficulty 
occurred with the boots of yellow leather, in which the Turkish 
women waddle, rather than walk, about the streets. These were so 
small that it was impossible to get them on, and I had therefore to 
content myself with slipping my stockings into a pair of red shoes, 
which only half covered them. My feet seemed alarmingly large 
and clumsy, and very likely to betray my real sex ; but the Turk 
and servant said these would do. The next affair was to draw over 
my pantaloons a pair of female inexpressibles, which, though of very 
spacious width, turned out, like the boots, to be too small, scarcely 
reaching down to the ankles, which stood out in strong development. 
Their sole fastening was a pair of strings, intended to be drawn 
around the slender waist, and to rest upon the swelling hips of the 



JERUSALEM — AS I T I S. 475 
Turkish dress. 

fair owner ; but from the want of any such support in my case, they 
threatened to slip bodily down upon the slightest movement. A 
dark veil was now put over my head, so as to entirely conceal the 
features, but through which I was enabled to see with tolerable 
clearness ; and, finally, a large white wrapper, but also too short, 
was thrown over me, completely enveloping all but the face. 
Although I fancied this disguise far from complete, the old man 
and the servant, after studying it attentively, and asking me to 
walk up and down, dropping my head a little, and affecting some- 
thing of a female waddle, looked at one another with approving 
glances, and authoritatively pronounced it to be £ taib.' 

" The servant now explained to me the manner of proceeding. 
When the women were dressed, which would be in a few minutes, 
we were all to sally forth together, and enter the enclosure by the 
neighboring gate. I was instructed to keep in the middle of the 
party, to do precisely as they did, and to be careful not to stare too 
much about me. We were to go first into the Mosk of Omar, which 
at that moment would be brilliantly lighted up, and from thence to 
that of El Aksa ; returning, after a short stay, to the house, where 
I was then to count down the five hundred piasters which I had 
stipulated to give. 

" All was now ready, and I awaited the arrival of my female con- 
ductors with intense anxiety, not altogether unmingled with appre- 
hension. To say truth, besides doubts as to my own successful 
deportment, I was not without misgivings as to the discretion of my 
companions, in a case where the slightest misconduct would involve 
the most serious consequences ; and feared no less, that in case of 
alarm they would suddenly scatter about the enclosure, and leave 
me to get out of it as I could. My distrust was greatly increased 
when I heard much chattering without, and when the head of the 
chief lady was projected into the apartment, beckoning forth her 
husband, who followed her into an adjoining room. He returned in 
a moment, evidently much disconcerted, declaring that his wives 
would only consent to accompany me on previously receiving pay- 



476 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Sad disappointment. 

nient. Stroking his beard, he declared that he himself had no mis- 
givings whatever, and trusted entirely to my honor, but that his 
wives were rebellious, and would listen to no reason. I was doubly 
annoyed at this — not only because it involved a personal affront, 
and displayed the avaricious eagerness of the women in a disgusting 
light, but also because it confirmed me in my distrust of their con- 
duct. To pay them beforehand what was so evidently their only 
inducement to go with me, would deprive me of the sole check I 
might have upon their behavior, and I firmly resolved not to sur- 
render it. Producing the money, which I had brought with me, I 
declared that it should be paid down the very moment we returned, 
but that, after the formal agreement which had been entered into, 
it was doubting my honor to insist upon receiving it beforehand. 
A spirited discussion now ensued, the women thrusting their heads 
into the room and taking part in it. I found they were divided in 
opinion, and that it was the obstinacy of the chief lady which pre- 
vented the conclusion of the bargain. The poor old Turk seemed 
passive in their hands, and altogether it afforded a curious insight 
into the manifold tribulations besetting the possessor of many wives, 
proving that polygamy is to be regarded, as Byron says — 

" ' Not only as a sin, but as a bore.* 

" As the women still persisted in their demands, I at length got 
wearied, and throwing off the feminine garb in which I was half- 
suffocated, broke off all further negotiation. 

" The servant resumed his lantern and medicine-chest, the old 
Turk preceded me into the street, and took leave with every demon- 
stration of courtesy, and regret that the matter had come to so 
untoward an issue. The harem was, no doubt, in a pretty state of 
combustion after our departure." 

Glad indeed were we the next morning to find that the misad- 
venture had eventuated no worse ; for, having been made acquainted 
with his intention, we spent a night of no little anxiety. 

But I was myself doomed to experience a somewhat similar dis- 



JERUSALEM — AS IT IS. 477 
Another misadventure. 

appointment soon afterwards. One of the highest officials of the 
Haram, whom I had laid under considerable obligations by medical 
services, voluntarily proposed to incur the responsibility of permitting 
me to spend several nights securely guarded, in the various parts of 
the enclosure, on payment of a Tew pounds to his sub-officers. I rea- 
dily acceded to the terms, and in order to avail myself of the oppor- 
tunity to the greatest advantage, I waited for a full moon, which 
would enable me the better to make some measurements of the area. 
Accordingly, being habited d la Turc, as an Effendi myself, one of 
my sons as an Arab, and the other as pipe-bearer, we made our 
entree about 10 o'clock : but scarcely had we satisfied our longing 
eyes with the enchanting moonlight view of the Mosk of Omar, 
before some of the Haram officers, not in the secret, were seen ap- 
proaching. We were immediately ensconced in the Mugrabin Mosk, 
and our faithless guide (for so it afterward appeared that he was) 
reported to us, that we were detected, and unless we would agree 
to give an additional buckshish to stop the mouths of the guard, we 
might be murdered outright. But being near the Mugrabin Gate, 
we concluded to abandon the enterprise and effect our escape, which 
we accordingly did, but not quite as leisurely as we had entered ; 
and who would not fly from a choice between the Koran and the 
cimetar — the alternative presented to any individual caught within 
this sacred enclosure ? Quite an army of dogs being aroused and 
effectually cutting off our homeward retreat, we were compelled to 
flee with all dispatch, around through the Jews' Quarter, and here 
we were challenged by the night watch, and for sometime threatened 
with a night's lodging in the common prison ; but making a virtue of 
silence, and frowning indignation in true Effendi style, I outbraved 
them, and they were content to let us go our way without farther 
molestation. 

A most fortunate circumstance, however, soon made ample amends 
for this sad disappointment. The Sultan's architect, having peti- 
tioned the Mejlis of Jerusalem for permission to associate me with 
him in designing the proposed improvements about the Haram, 



478 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Preliminaries necessary to admission to the Mosk. 

procured my official and unrestricted admittance to every part of 
the sacred enclosure, both above and below ground, without fee or 
reward. 

I was not even required to undergo the important ecclesiastical 
lustration by water on the occasion. ' In order, however, to avoid 
the appearance of anything that would savor of the observance 
of a Mohammedan rite, I took care to go voluntarily and submit 
to the rubbing, scrubbing, bumping, thumping, racking, cracking 
operation of the Turkish bath, so as to forestall all difficulties on 
the score of uncleanness. 

Whoever has once enjoyed the luxury of a Turkish bath will 
almost realize the operation a second time on reading the following 
account from the graphic pen of Curtis : — 

« The lofty hall which we enter is lighted through a dome, and is 
paved with varied marbles. Three deep alcoves are raised above 
the court, in the sides of the wall, and in the centre of the pave- 
ment is a fountain, upon whose margin stand clusters of nargilehs, 
wreathed with their serpentine tubes. A mat is spread for us in 
the most spacious alcove. A boy holds a fine linen veil before us 
while we disrobe, and instantly an attendant girds us with linen 
over the shoulders and around the loins, and a flat turban of the same 
is pressed upon our heads. Then carefully treading in clumsy 
wooden pattens, which slide upon the polished floor, we enter a 
small room. 

" It is misty with steam, and warm, entirely bare, and of smooth 
marble walls and floor. We pass into another of the same kind, 
hotter and more misty, and a group of parboiled spectres regard us 
languidly as we advance. 

" Then we emerge in a long oblong hall, reeking with moist heat, 
in which we gasp and stare at the figures — some steeped to the neck 
in a cauldron of steaming water, their shaven heads floating, like 
livid pipkins, upon the surface — some lying at full naked length upon 
the floor, in a torpor of sensual satisfaction — some sitting meekly 
upright upon little stools, and streaming with soapsuds, while nude 



JERUSALEM — AS IT IS. 479 • 

Turkish bath. 

officials, with a linen fig-leaf, rush rapidly about with a black horse- 
hair mitten upon the right hand, making occasional sallies upon the 
spectres, and apparently flaying them with the rough hand of hair. 

" These spectres are all shaven and profoundly solemn. They 
undergo parboiling, boiling, soaping, and flaying, with a melancholy 
seriousness of western gentlemen dancing at a ball, heroically 
resigned to happiness. 

" But we may not pause. Persuasive hands are urging us toward 
the cauldron. We are suddenly denuded, and hover affrighted on 
the very verge of the steaming abyss. But we will not be pipkins. 
We will not join that host of shaven Saracens, who look at us from 
the cauldron as lifelessly — for les extremes se touchent — as the vic- 
tims in the ice glared upon Dante and his guide. We remember 
Hylas with an exquisite shudder. We gasp < la, laj (no, no,) with 
an emphasis that makes us the focus of all the languid glances in 
the misty limbo. 

" Then the persuasive hands urge us toward a door opening into a 
small marble chamber. A fountain gushes hot water at the side, a 
linen is suspended over the door, and we are removed from the view 
of the pipkins. The thick hot air is absorbed at every pore, and 
the senses are soothed as with opium fumes. We pant, resistless, 
sitting upon the floor, streaming with perspiration. Beyond, strug- 
gling, we see a hairy-handed spectre enter under the linen of the 
doorway. He rubs his fingers upon our naked bodies, as a barber 
rubs the chin he is about shaving. The hairy-handed says, 6 Taib, 
taib,' (good, good,) and lays the Howadji flat upon his back. 

" Sitting by his side, he dips the hair glove into the running 
water, and rubs with a smooth, steady firmness the inside of the 
infidel arm. Not a spot escapes. You muse of almonds in the pro- 
cess of blanching, and are thus admitted to mysterious sympathies 
You are no longer panting and oppressed. You respire heat and 
mist at every pore, and perceive yourself of the consistency of 
honey. The hairy-handed whispers coaxingly, as you sink more 
deeply in the sense of liquefaction < Khawadji, bucksheesh.' You 



480 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Turkish bath. 

look at him with the languid solemnity of the pipkins in the caul- 
dron, but are sure that you would only bubble and gurgle, should 
you attempt to speak. 

" The hairy-handed turns you like a log, and like the statue of 
great Ramses at Memphis, lying with its face in the mud, so lies the 
happy Howadji with his nose upon the wet marble floor, torpid with 
satisfaction, while his back is peeled in the same skilful manner. 

" The ceremony of the glove is finished, and you lie a moment as 
if the vague warm, mist had penetrated your mind. A stream of 
clear hot water is poured over you, and pleasure trickles through 
your very soul. 

" Then lo ! the hairy-handed, smiling upon you as you lie, and 
whispering, 'Bucksheesh, Howadji,' steps with his naked feet upon 
your spine, and stands on your body between your shoulders. But 
he has scarcely touched the back than he slides off down the ribs, 
his large moist feet clinging to your back. So, sliding and slipping, 
and kneading your body, he advances toward the feet, accumulating 
in your misty mind new ideas of luxury, and revealing to your 
apprehension the significance of the Arabic word 'kief,' which 
implies a surfeit of sensual delight. He steps off and leaves you 
lying, and there you would willingly lie for ever, but that he returns 
with a pan of soap and a mass of fibres of the palm-tree — the Ori- 
ental sponge. 

" The next moment you are smeared in suds, from the neck to the 
heels, and it is rubbed in with a vigor that makes you no longer 
Ramses in the mud of Memphis, but a Grecian wrestler, anointed 
and oiled with suppleness. He rolls you over, and your corporeal 
unctuation is completed. 

" Then hairy-hand sits you upright upon the floor, like the mild- 
eyed lotus-eaters, who sit sudded upon stools in the vicinity of the 
pipkins ; and suddenly the soap is planted in your hair, and you 
are strangling in the suds that stream over your face. You cannot 
speak or gasp ; for the hairy-hand mercilessly rubs along your face 
up and down, as if you were merely Marsyas ; and as you sit half ter- 



JERUSALEM — AS IT IS. 



481 



Turkish bath. 

rifled, and with a ghostly revery of anger at your heart — for posi- 
tive emotions are long since melted — you perceive a burning stream 
of water flowing over you and washing soap and rage away. Hairy- 
hand deluges you with the hot water, which he bails out of the 
fountain with the pan that held the soap, then folds his hands meekly 
to signify that you are done, and whispers gently, « Buckshish, 
Howadji.' 

" You rise and enter the Sudarium beyond. No unbelieving Verde 
Giovane is there to scoff ; but another spectre approaches with razor 
and scissors. You tremble lest you be too much done to resist the 
shaving process, lest you re-enter the world utterly bald as a Sara- 
cen. But a glance at the pipkins nerves your heart. Feebly this 
time, and truly with liquid accents, you murmur, 4 la, la,' and the 
spectre with razors vanishes into the mist with a scornful smile. 
You pass into the next chamber and clean linens are thrown around 
you as when you entered, and you stumble along upon the clumsy 
pattens out into the large hall. 

" You reel into the alcove and stretch yourself at length upon 
the mattress covered with gold-fringed linen. A boy lays other 
linen over you, skilfully flapping a heavenly coolness as he lets it 
fall. Your eyes close in dreamy languor. Something smooth touches 
your lips ; it is the amber mouth of a nargileh tube, upon whose 
vase, filled with tobacco from Shiraz, a bit of aloes is burning. It 
is the same boy who kneels and hands it to your lips, and offers in 
the other hand a cup of orange sherbet. 

" You sip and inhale, and a few moments, restful as a year to the 
sleeping princess, pass. Then you are gently raised, all your 
drapery is changed, and fresh, fair linen is spread over you again, 
with the same exquisite coolness in falling. 

" Your eyes wander in revery around the hall. In one alcove, lie 
a pair of Sybarites like yourself, also dreamily regarding you, and 
your glances meet and mingle, like light vapors in the air. Another 
is praying — bending and kissing and muttering — others are robing 
and disrobing, entering or going out. The officials move as quietly 
31 



482 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Turkish bath. 

as shadows, and perfect silence reigns under the dome, broken only 
and deepened by the plash of the fountains ; clouds of azure smoke 
wreathe away, and the faint bubbling of the water in the nargileh 
hums soothing through the space. By reason of the windows in the 
dome, the bath is lighter than the bazaar, and you watch through 
grated windows opening upon the bazaar, the passers in that dim 
region, the camels, the horses gayly caparisoned, the Bedowins and 
Sakkas, and bright-robed merchants, who all go by like phantoms. 

" But the boy kneels again and with firm fingers squeezes your arm 
slowly from the shoulders to the finger tips. Then he proceeds along 
your legs — firmly, but gentle at first, then more strongly kneading, 
and passes off at your fingers, cracking every joint, nor unmindful 
of the toes. He retires and leaves you to another interval of dreams, 
smoke, and sherbet. The draperies are changed, again with sweet 
coolness in the changing. Finally a strong man, Uncle Kuhleborn 
himself, kneels behind you seriously, and lifts you up. He thrusts his 
arms under yours, and bends you ruthlessly backward and forward, 
straining and squeezing in every direction, forcing your body into 
postures which it can never know again, actually cracking your 
backbone, until seizing you quite off the mattress, old Kuhleborn 
twists you upon his knee into an inextricable knot, then suffers you 
to fail exhausted upon the couch. 

" It is the last stroke, the crown of delight. You exist in exquisite 
sensation, but are no longer conscious of a body. You comprehend 
an < unbodied joy whose race is just began.' The cool, fragrant 
dimness penetrates your frame. You fall softly into sleep, as into 
an abyss of clouds." 

But, however anxious to explore the mysteries of that sacred 
spot, I was fully resolved to submit to none of the degrading 
ceremonies to which Christian and Jewish mechanics had been 
required heretofore to do on entering the Haram for the pur- 
pose of making repairs. It is well known that every kind of 
handicraft avocation is regarded as degrading by all classes of 
Moslems ; and hence when the clock of the Mosk needs repairing, 



JERUSALEM — AS I T I S. 



483 



Preliminaries necessary to admission to the Mosk. 

they are compelled, however reluctantly, to employ a Frank. But 
in order to have a clean conscience in the commission of such an 
abominable piece of sacrilege as the admission of an infidel upon 
the sacred premises, they adopt the following expedient. The 
mechanic selected being thoroughly purged from his uncleanness by 
ablution a la Turc, a certain formula of prayer and incantation is 
sung over him at the gate. This being satisfactorily concluded, he 
is considered as exorcised, not only of Christianity (or Judaism, as 
the case may be), but of humanity also ; and is declared to be 
no longer a man but a donkey. He is then mounted upon the 
shoulders of the faithful, lest, notwithstanding his depuration, the 
ground should be polluted by his footsteps ; and being carried to the 
spot where his labors are required, he is set down upon matting 
within certain prescribed limits ; and the operation being performed, 
he is carried back to the gate, and there, by certain other ceremonies, 
he is duly undonkeyfied and transmuted into a man again ! But the 
poor brutalized mechanic may at least "lay the flattering unction" 
to his wounded pride, that if he has been made to play the part of 
it donkey for a while, his juggling employers are asses evermore. 

In conferring this signal favor upon me, the Effendi was influenced 
mainly by gratitude for medical services, but in no small degree also 
by a desire to become familiar with the use of several philosophical 
instruments I had, and most willingly did I undertake the instruc- 
tion of himself and brother. The opportunities thus extended for 
some weeks, were much greater than have ever been heretofore 
enjoyed by any Frank since the possession of this place by the 
Turks, and the expulsion of the Franks from the Holy Land. Still 
I have to regret that owing to the importunate application, on the 
part of an Englishman and a Frenchman, the range of my observa- 
tions was somewhat controlled after a short time. A remark made 
by the Effendi in his speech before the Mejlis on the occasion, is 
characteristically Oriental. The claims of these gentlemen were 
urged before the Mejlis by one of the chief dignitaries of El-Khuds, 
in very eloquent terms (for a good fat buckshish can even make the 



484 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Boundary of Haram es-Sherif. 

stolid Turk speak eloquently), being based principally upon alleged 
principles of honor, and the duty of reciprocity devolved upon the 
subjects of the Sultan, in consequence of the assistance of England 
and France, rendered against the Russians, while America afforded 
them no aid. " It is true," said the Effendi, "that England and 
France are our allies, and that America is not : but the truth is, my 
lords, that the Haram is sick and needs medicine (not gunpowder), 
and the Hakim American has the right kind of medicine, and knows 
how to administer it." The result of the discussion was that I was 
retained and they were denied admittance. 

The Enclosure of the Haram es-Sherif* or the Noble Sanctuary, as 
the area of the Temple is now called, contains about thirty-six acres. 
The east side of this large quadrilateral enclosure runs due north 
and south, but no other side is either perpendicular or parallel to it, 
nor any two sides the same length. The course of the south side is 
south 86J° west ; the west side north 5° west ; and the north side 
south 89° east. The diversity of result exhibited by the following 
tabular view of its admeasurement by different persons must be re- 
garded as evincing the great difficulty of making correct measure- 
ments about Jerusalem at present, rather than the incompetency or 
carelessness of the observers. 



* Sometimes also called " Mesjid el-Aksa," differs from Jamey as a churchyard differs 
the most distant sanctuary, because more from the church — a distinction which it is 
distant from Mecca than Medina is. Mesjid important to bear in mind. 



JERUSALEM— AS IT IS. 



485 



Dimensions of the Haram — discrepant accounts. 





Sides of th 


i Enclosure. 


Observers. 













E. 


N. 


W. 


S. 


Catherwood 


1520 


1020 


1617 


932 


English engineers 


1520 


1188 


1520 


877 


Robinson . . . . . . . .... 


1528 


1060 




955 


Smith ... 


1528 


1060 




906^ 


Tipping and Walcot 


1533 






915 


Richardson . . 


1489 


995 






Schwarz .......... 


1498 






995 


Maundrel 


1539 








Assaad Effendi 


1521 


1047 


1617 


945 


Medjr-Eddin 


1471 


893 






Ali Bey 


1369 






845 


Omar Effendi 


1489 


995 






Another Mussulman account . 


1563 


938 








1523£ 


1038 


1600 


916 



These discrepancies are much to be regretted, but by no means to 
be censured, for such is the nature of the ground, and such the diffi- 
culties arising from impenetrable copses of cactus, interposing build- 
ings, and accumulations of rubbish, that error is unavoidable ; and 
no measurement that it is practicable to make, on any side, at pre- 
sent, except the eastern, can be regarded as absolutely reliable. 
Another measurement of the south end, made with the utmost care, 
upon trigonometrical principles, varied but slightly from this number ; 
but a very careful measurement, made directly along the wall, from 
each corner to the pile of buildings around the double gateway — 
added to the best estimate that could be made of the breadth of the 
walls and rooms, makes the length of this end as much as 936 feet : 
but it is probable that what was supposed to be a single wall, was 
in reality a small room. Though I found no difficulty in measuring 
and drawing anything out of sight of the Mugrabin guard, entirely 
at my leisure, yet I had no sooner commenced measuring the area 
of the Haram, than the Effendi took alarm at the fanatical demon- 
stration of the guard, and we deemed it prudent to desist for awhile, 
in the hope that they would become better reconciled. 

The surface of this enclosure is by no means a uniform plane, 



486 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Haram area. Gates. • 

there being a general declination towards the south and east. The 
ground immediately south of the Golden Gate is quite low, that 
around Solomon's Throne is elevated, and the rock surface in the 
north-west corner is considerably higher than any other part of the 
area — the platform of course excepted. 

These walls are about eight or nine feet in thickness at the 
foundation, though the parapets are not more than three feet thick, 
and average about fifty in height on the exterior, and at the south- 
east corner are seventy-seven feet high. On the interior only twelve 
or fifteen feet are visible above the surface of the flat area of the 
enclosure ; and upon the north and west and a portion of the south, 
ranges of cloisters form the internal boundary ; but about the north- 
west corner, the native rock, on which the Tower of Antonia was 
built, forms the enclosing wall for the height of twenty or thirty 
feet in some places. 

Three gates give entrance to the Haram-yard on the north : — 
Bab es-Sitte Myriam, or es-Sabat, in the north-east corner ; next 
Bab es-Sawatta or Dewatar ; and the Bab el-Hitta or Ettim. On 
the west, there are eight gates or doors, as follows : — commencing 
near the north-west corner and proceeding south, Bab el-Guauney 
or Guanimi, Bab es-Seraiyah, Bab en-Nazir or el-Bassery or el- 
Alsdeen, Bab el-Hadid, Bab el-Muthara, Bab el Katanin, Bab 
el-Makhemy or es-Sekine or Salsala, and Bab el-Mugaribeh. 

On the east there were formerly a small portal and a magnificent 
gate, though both are now closed. The former, which appears to 
be unnamed at present, is the " Little Gate" of the Franks, some- 
times called "Porta Jehosaphat sive Gregis;" and the latter is 
called, in Arabic, Bab ed-Dahareyeh, and is the celebrated Golden 
Q- a te — the Porta Aurea of the Crusaders. 

The course of the eastern wall several times varies from a straight 
] me — there being numerous projections and recessions — as observed 
on the plan. There are a great many pillars built transversely into 
this wall, generally said to be porphyry and verde antique (but 
erroneously, inasmuch as they effervesce with acids). One of these 



JERUSALEM — AS IT IS. 48 
Gates of the Haram. 

pillars, projecting a few feet from near the top of the wall, about a 
hundred yards from the south-east corner, is a spot very much 
revered by Mussulmans ; being no less in their estimation, than 
the very judgment seat upon which Mahommed will sit in the last 
day, and judge the world, assembled in the valley below. They 
even contend that a very fine wire extends horizontally over to 
Olivet, at this time, upon which the souls of the faithful pass 
safely over to Paradise — while that of no Jew, Christian, or other 
infidel, can possibly pass over that Islamic-wire-suspension-Para- 
disaic bridge. 

The Golden Gate is situated 456J feet from the north-east corner 
of the Haram. It is fifty-five feet in width, and projects about six. 
It was through this gate, tradition says, the Son of David made his 
triumphant entry into the city, and through it the Emperor Hera- 
clius also entered triumphantly, bearing the Cross, which he had 
recovered from the Persians. 

Whether it was blocked up by Christians or Moslems, is uncer- 
tain ; but evident it is, that the latter are well content to let it 
remain closed, having the fear of the Bedawin as well as the Christ- 
ian before their eyes. 

All the gates of the city are scrupulously kept closed for an hour 
or two on every Friday (the Mohammedan Sabbath), because of a 
universal belief that an attempt will, sooner or later, be made by 
Christians to take the city at Friday noon. Nothing is positively 
known of the history of the small closed door, 50 J feet south of the 
Golden Gate, near which is an empty stone basin, formerly supplied 
with water from within, which has so much puzzled travellers. It 
is probable, however, that it was merely intended to substitute the 
Golden Gate, after its closure, and is the "Little Gate" that led 
down to the valley by many steps — mentioned by chroniclers of the 
crusading times. Nor is anything certainly known concerning the 
closed doorway, with pointed arch, on the south, 105 feet from the 
south-east corner. It is possible that horses may once have been 
stabled amongst the splendid colonnades within, according both to 



488 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Triple and double Gateways of Haram. 

Moslem and Christian tradition: and if so, this was the " Stablo 
Door." 

On the south side is the Triple Gate, 277 feet from the south- 
east corner (51 feet in width and 25 feet in height, now built up 
also), which may either have led through the substructions below to 
a Christian church or heathen temple ; or, more probably, was 
originally the gate through which the bovine victims were led to 
the altar above. 




huldah's gate. 



The double doorway, partly concealed by the offices in the rear 
of Aksa, built up at the junction of the city and Haram walls, 
334| feet from the south-west corner of the Haram, is supposed to 
be the Huldah Gate of the Talmud by many, and is undoubtedly 
alluded to by Josephus (Ant. xv. xi : 5). It has all the character- 
istics of Jewish architecture, but the exterior entablature is unques- 
tionably a Roman addition. The doors were originally 18 feet 



JERUSALEM— 



AS IT IS. 



Newly discovered Gateway of the Temple. 

wide and 20 feet high. A double, vaulted archway of pure Jewish 
architecture, 258 feet long, leads to the area above. 

I discovered an ancient doorway, quite similar to this, on the 
west side, about 270 yards from the south-west corner, which is also 
walled up. 

The subjoined sketch shows a por- 
tion of the lintel of this doorway, 
beneath the lowermost iron-grated 
windows in the Haram wall — part of 
it being within the room underneath 
the vault that sustains the street 
leading up to the Haram. This gate 
is without doubt one of the two men- 
tioned by Josephus as leading into 
Parbar ; and is an important element 
in the restoration of the Temple. It 
also affords another proof of the re- 
liability of the Hebrew historian. 

It is immediately beneath the present Mugaribeh Gate, and much 
of it entirely occluded by the house of Abu Send Effendi, one of 
the city secretaries. Twenty feet two inches of the lintel now 
appear, which is six feet nine inches in breadth. This is probably 
only about one-half its width. The lintel is only four feet above 
the surface of the ground at present, just above the level of the 
basement of the Mekhemeh building ; and is about twenty feet 
below the surface of the Haram area. 

This gateway is about seventeen feet lower than Huldah's. 
Originally it doubtless gave admission to the area above by a flight 
of steps in a way similar to the passage from Huldah's Gate ; and 
without doubt is one of the gates mentioned by Josephus as leading 
to the suburbs. During the period of my admission into the Haram 
enclosure I discovered in this immediate vicinity, on the interior, a 
portion of a closed gateway, about fourteen or fifteen feet wide ; but 
whether it is connected with that on the exterior, I was not enabled 




LINTEL OF ANCIENT GATEWAY OF TEMPLE. 



490 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Ancient Gateway in Temple Wall. 

to determine — for the guards became so much exasperated by my 
infidel desecration of the sacred room, el-Borak, where the great 
prophet tied his mule on that memorable night of the Hegira, that 
it was deemed the part of prudence to tarry there but a short time, 
and never to visit it again. But the accompanying illustration, 
though rather hastily taken, will convey a better impression of this 
place than the most prolix description. 

Only the upper portion of the gateway can be seen — the lower 
part being excluded from view by a room, the roof or top of which is 
formed by the floor of this small apartment. 




OLD PORTAL IN WESTERN WALL OP TEMPLE ENCLOSURE. 



At the northern extremity of the eastern wall of the Haram may 
be noticed its projection eastward, about five feet six inches for the 
distance of eighty-three and a quarter feet. It is a very massive 
structure, and is no doubt on the site of one of the towers of the 
Antonia precincts, mentioned by Josephus ; and while much of its 
upper portion is of inferior materials and workmanship, being evi- 
dently modern reparation, cyclopean stones extend to the very top 
at its northern termination, and apparently in situ — but they were 



JERUSALEM — AS IT IS. 



491 



Cyclopean stones. 

no doubt thrown down by Titus, and replaced by Hadrian or some 
subsequent rebuilder of the city. Many of the stones are from 
fifteen to twenty or twenty-five feet in length, and vary in depth and 
width from three to eight or nine feet. These large Jewish stones 
are found in every part of the wall, sometimes however, only in one, 
two, or three courses, and frequently, indeed, only a few scattering 
ones, whose intervals are filled up by small ill-shaped stones, broken 
columns, capitals, pedestals, entablatures, &c. ; but it is at the 
corner that they are seen in most colossal proportions, as chief 
" corner stones." At the south-east corner the stones, though Cyclo- 
pean, are not quite as large as they are at the other corner, where 
the wall was more easily assailed. The wall here is seventy-seven 
feet in height, and is truly imposing. From some of these rocks 
may be observed cubical projections of more than half a foot extent ; 
and a cavity of similar shape and dimensions in others, as if the 
prominences of the one were made to fit into the depressions of the 
other. The same fact is observed in the wall at the Wailing Place, 
and also on the Tower of Hippicus ; and has caused a great deal of 
controversy, some supposing that they were originally so arranged 
as to form a stairway, others that they were designed to facilitate 
their handling. My own opinion is, that they were merely intended 
to secure the junction of an abutting wall, built subsequently to 
that against which it abuts. 

Pursuing our survey around the patched wall of the Temple, on 
the south, we observe amongst its cyclopean masonry, immediately 
west of the Triple Gate, a stone, four feet wide and five and three- 
quarters long, standing on end — being built perpendicularly into 
the wall. It has a beautiful moulding on one edge, and probably 
once formed part of the decoration around the top of the old Temple 
wall, which Josephus says "was of excellent workmanship upwards 
and around the top of it." (Ant. xv. xi : 3.) The observant tra- 
veller will not fail to scan it with a critical eye. Just above the 
right hand upper corner of the subterranean gateway lintel, at the 
junction of the city and Temple walls, we find another proof of the 



492 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Ancient inscription. Templo-Zion Bridge. 

hasty and imperfect manner in which this wall has been rebuilt, in 
the inverted inscription of one of its stones. Some of the letters 
are nearly effaced by the erosive influence of time and the elements ; 
but the inscription may be satisfactorily made out as follows, by 
the aid of glasses : — 

Titoaima^o TIT0AILHADR1AN0 

Antaninoavpio A N T N I N A V G P I 

PPPONTIFAVGVR 
DO 

From this inscription it may safely be inferred that the wall was 
rebuilt at a period certainly somewhat posterior to Antoninus Pius. 
At the south-west corner these colossal blocks of stone are found 
still larger than those at the other corners, as might be reasonably 
inferred from the vicinity of the immense bridge, probably just as 
they were placed by the architect of Solomon or his immediate suc- 
cessor. They vary in size from five to six and a quarter feet in 
thickness, and from twenty to thirty feet in length. Nearly all of 
the upper part of the wall, however, is rather indifferently con- 
structed of small stones. 

At a distance of thirty-nine feet from this corner, we reach the 
abutment of the celebrated Templo-Zion or Tyropoeon Bridge, first 
identified by Dr. Robinson. It was fifty-one and a half feet in 
width, and extended at least three hundred and fifty feet in length, 
from abutment to abutment, across the Tyropoeon. The radius of 
the arch, as correctly ascertained by repeated experiments on the 
spot, is twenty feet six inches. The span of the arch was therefore 
forty-one feet. The pier upon which this arch rests, projects 
eighteen inches from the wall ; but not more than two feet of its 
height is now visible above ground — indeed none on its northern 
side, where trash is every day thrown from above. 



JERUSALEM — AS IT IS. 



493 



Span of Tyropoeon Bridge. 

From the top of the pier, where the arch springs, to correspond- 
ing level on the opposite side of the Tyropoeon, is but little more 
than three hundred feet, though it is about three hundred and sixty 
from the level of the Harara-yard above to the corresponding level 
on the opposite cliff of Zion. Allowing a sufficient thickness of 
piers for such a massive structure, there were, probably, five or six 
arches across the Tyropoeon. One of the blocks in the remaining 
portion of the bridge measures twenty-one feet, and another twenty- 
five, in length, by five and three-quarters in breadth. 




WAILING PLACE OF THE JEWS. 



At the "Wailing Place," which occupies a space of forty yards 
from a point about one hundred yards north of the corner, these 
large rocks are again visible, and in the pool beneath the causeway, 
they are in fine preservation ; but the rest of the wall is concealed 
by houses as far as the Moat of Antonia, beyond which the wall is 



494 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING 



Fulfilment of prophecy. 

constructed of much smaller stones until it unites with the tower at 
the north-east corner. 

Although many of these stones have been quarried and dressed 
nearly three thousand years, yet the rebatement or rabbeting on 
most of them is perfectly distinct and well defined. This supposed 
characteristic of Jewish architecture is generally designated by the 
term "bevelling," which term, however, signifying, as it does, an 
oblique rebatement, is incorrect: the sides of the channel being per- 
pendicular, though very shallow (generally less than half an inch 
in depth), and one or two in width, and extend all around the 
exposed face of each rock. 

A few of these lower tiers of stones have lain many centuries 
inhumed. And there is no proof that some of them have ever been 
removed from the position in which they were first placed : but this 
cannot justly be construed into a non-fulfilment of our Saviour's 
prophecy, recorded by Luke (xix. 44), in relation to the stones of 
the city. That relating to the Temple itself (Matt. xxiv. 2) has 
been so completely and literally fulfilled, that, so far as is known, 
not a single stone of that "magnifical" building is left in situ. 
That in Luke has been fulfilled in sjririt, just as completely — the 
enemy did lay the devoted city even with the ground, and her 
children within her — in the sense intended ; and in the same sense, 
"not one stone was left upon another," and yet no doubt there 
were millions of stones, actually lying one upon another in every 
part of the city ! 

Josephus informs us that, in building the outer wall of the Tem- 
ple, it was necessary to commence the foundations in some of the 
ravines of Moriah, very far beneath the general surface of the 
earth. (Ant. viii. iii: 1, & W. v. v: 1.) Now the Saviour certainly 
did not intend us to understand that the Romans, in overthrowing 
the city, would dig down into the bowels of the earth, and draw up 
these immense stones, there "bound together by lead and iron!" 
Nor was it to be expected that, when the Roman soldiers had 
thrown down the upper tiers of stones, and their accumulation at 



JERUSALEM — AS IT IS. 



■195 



Kubbet es-Sakhrab. 

the base of the wall had so far obstructed the work of subversion, 
as to render it impracticable, without carrying these stones away 
into the country, to get at the foundation stones, they would thus 
remove these immense masses, in order to remove the foundation of 
the wall ! Josephus uses language still more explicit and sweeping 
than this ; and declares (W. vii. i : 1) that after the subversion of the 
city by Titus, " There was le'ft nothing to make those that came 
thither believe it ever had been inhabited!" And yet who that 
understands the nature of language, would think of charging that 
historian (as sceptics have so foolishly charged this prophecy) with 
falsification ! 

BUILDINGS WITHIN THE ENCLOSURE. 

Kubbet es-Sakhrah — Dome of the Rock — Mosk of Omar — 
Temple. — A marble-paved platform, very similar in outline to the 
enclosing bounds of the Haram es-Sherif, but only one-sixth its 
area, is situated within it, and near its middle, but rather closer to 
its western and northern than its southern and eastern boundaries. 
The surface of the Haram area being not perfectly plane, but more 
elevated on the north-western quarter, where it is entirely composed 
of rock, than elsewhere, the platform is not equally elevated above 
the ground on all sides ; but its average height is at least ten feet, 
though the central portion of the north side is not half that height. 
It is ascended through eight portals of Saracenic style, some of 
which are truly elegant. 

The superb edifice called by Moslems Kubbet es-Sakhrah (Dome 
of the Rock), and by Franks, the Mosk of Omar, is situated rather 
below the middle of the platform — being nearest to the western 
side, and farthest from the northern. It is about one hundred and 
seventy feet in diameter and the same in height. The lower story, 
or main body of the building, is a true octagon, of sixty-seven feet 
on a side ; but the central and elevated portion is circular. A more 
graceful and symmetrical dome than that which crowns the build- 
ing, is perhaps nowhere to be found ; and the lofty bvonze crescent 



49G 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Es-Sakhrah. 

that surmounts the whole gives a pleasing architectural finish, 
despite its ' soul-sickening a ssociations. The dome appears to be 
covered with copper, also the roof to the investing building ; but 
laterally it is everywhere covered with porcelain tiles of richest 
color, except the lower half of the octagonal sides, which are 
encased with rich marble of various colors and devices. And a 
very dim, religious light is shed through sixteen windows of the 
richest stained glass, with which the circular body of the building 
is pierced. The lower story is forty-six feet high, and has seven 
windows of stained glass on each side — fifty-six in all.* Just 
above the windows, numerous extracts from the Koran, in very 
large Turkish letters, run all around the building. There are four 
doors, and as many porches, each facing a cardinal point, the 
southern one affording the main entrance. 

The dome and its circular shaft are supported by four very mas- 
sive piers, and twelve arches resting on pillars, within which, 
enclosed by a gilt iron railing, and overhung by the richest crimson 
silk canopy, is the celebrated rock (Sakhrah) which gives name and 
interest to the building. Around this inner building there is an 
octagonal aisle thirty feet wide, and around this, separated only by 
eight piers and sixteen pillars, is another, the outer one, thirteen 
feet in width. The columns are mostly composed of a purplish 
breccia kind of marble or porphyry, with gilded Corinthian capitals. 
The ceiling of the octagonal portion is studded with large gilded 
rosettes ; but there was not sufficient light beneath the interior dome 
to enable me to make out the intricate gilt patterns above. 

Immediately beneath the centre of the dome, is the venerated 
rock about which so much has been written. In the estimation of 
the Jew, this is by far the most hallowed spot on earth : for, accord- 
ing to the Rabbins, this is the identical rock upon which Jacob pil- 
lowed his head " and set it up for a pillar and poured oil upon the 



* The arches of these windows are, on the stonework being semicircular. The windows 
outside, slightly pointed, Tudor fashion ; but in the interior, however, are slightly pointed, 
this applies only to the outer tile-work — the 



JERUSALEM — AS IT IS. 497 
Traditions of the es-Sakhrah. 

top of it; and he called the name of that place Bethel" — House 
of God. (Gen. xxviii. 17, 22). It is the general belief also, that 
it is the threshing-floor of Araunah the Jebusite — the spot where 
the faith of Abraham was so sorely tried in his determined obedi- 
ence to God to offer up Isaac ; and the site of the Holy of Holies 
of the Temple — which glowed beneath the Divine manifestation of 
Deity in the Shekinah. The Mahommedans affirm, with assured con- 
fidence, that it was from this very rock also, that their ubiquitous 
time-and-space-annihilating prophet bounded upwards though seven 
heavens ; and in attestation of the fact — to the confusion of all gain- 
saying blasphemers and opposers — they show the imprint of his 
foot in the solid rock, the impress of the angels' fingers in with- 
holding the rock that it might not accompany the prophet in his 
celestial flight (as it actually commenced doing, and hence its in- 
clined position they say), and the veritable ring still suspended from 
a staple in a neighboring wall. When brought to light by Omar, it 
was inhumed beneath an immense mound of rubbish and filth. But 
it had previously been crowned by Hadrian's splendid Temple of Ju- 
piter Capitolinus. The present noble structure over and around it, is 
undoubtedly the work of the munificent Khaliff Abd-el Melek, 
though often supposed to be a Christian edifice. 

The shape of the Sakhrah is irregular, though approximating 
somewhat that of the platform on which it is situated, but in reverse 
position. It is about sixty feet in length from north to south, and 
fifty-five in breadth. It rises about five feet above the marble floor 
of the Mosk, and would consequently be about fifteen feet above 
the central portion of the ground, but, inasmuch as it is situated 
immediately on the ridge, it is probably not elevated more than 
eight or ten feet above the contiguous ground. 

In the south-east portion of this rock is a small room, irregularly 
square and roughly finished, about eight feet in height, and fifteen 
on each side — " The Noble Cave." Its ceiling is about four or five 
feet below the upper surface of the rock, from four to six feet 
thick, and pierced with an oval-shaped hole about three feet in dia- 

32 



498 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



The Noble Cave in es-Sakhrah. 

meter : the sides are plastered in order to produce the impression 
that this immense rock is now supported by a wall of masonry. 
They allege that it is really sustained by nothing , and this wall was 
merely placed here to deceive the pilgrims, on account of fatal acci- 
dents to persons who had gone below and found themselves beneath 
such an immense unsustained rock ! An empty, hollow sound 
being emitted on striking the northern side, shows undoubtedly that 
vacant space is beyond. On stamping upon a circular stellar-con- 
structed piece of variegated marble about the centre of the floor, 
sonorous reverberations are emitted, clearly evincing the existence 
of a large excavation below this stellated slab, which they say closes 
the door to Hades. This is the Bir Arruah, or "Well of Souls," 
which was formerly kept open for the convenience of holding inter- 
course with departed spirits ; but on account of urgent prudential 
considerations, deeply affecting the honor of certain hareems of the 
city, it was deemed best to close it. Is this the " Lapis per- 
tussus" of the pilgrim fathers, that the Jews so much venerated? 
Access is had to this room by a pair of steps cut in the native rock, 
just above which, on entering the door of the room, is a tongue 
very highly revered by good Moslems. This whole rock is fine 
limestone, or coarse marble somewhat mottled, and the tongue is 
nothing more than a small portion of it, developed in making the 
entrance, that being somewhat like the tougue in shape and color, 
received that designation : but truly, if we may credit their legends, 
this "unruly member" has uttered some things hard to be under- 
stood ! There are various recesses cut in the rock both above and 
below, indicating the spots where Abraham, Elijah, David, Solomon, 
and other renowned Hebrews were in the habit of praying ; and a 
prayer offered there even by us infidels, as all Christians are termed, 
they say, must be effectual. But, besides these operations of the 
chisel, large portions of the rock have also been cut away for no 
obvious reason, particularly on the west where it has been nicely 
squared off and lowered ; on the north also it has been chiselled 
away to the thickness of only a foot or two. It is supposed, how- 



JERUSALEM — AS IT IS. 



499 



Traditions concerning es-Sakhrah. 

ever, to have been done by the Crusaders, when they covered it with 
white marble, and reared an altar upon it, calling the building the 
"Temple of the Lord," under the impression that this is the rock 
upon which David sacrificed in order to stay the progress of the 
plague. 

The Moslem tradition concerning the Sakhrah is that it fell from 
heaven about the time that the spirit of prophecy was imparted. 
This holy stone, they say, wished to accompany the prophet in 
his nocturnal flight to heaven ; and actually started ; but in response 
to the "great prophet's" prayers, the angel Gabriel was dispatched 
to stay its flight : and so firm was the grasp by which it was retained, 
that the impression of the angels' hands are to be seen there to 
this day. 

They allege also that the Mosk contains the scales for weighing 
the souls of men, the shield of Mohammed, the birds of Solomon, 
the pomegranates of David, the saddle of el-Borak, and an original 
copy of the Koran the parchment leaves of which are four feet 
long. A well of soul-refreshing water is also alleged to exist there. 
A green slab of marble is also shown, formerly nailed down by 
eighteen silver nails, three of which still remain. This, it seems, is a 
kind of chronological table : a nail having been withdrawn for each 
grand epoch in their history, and when the last nail takes its flight, 
the consummation of all things will occur. So rapid, they say, was 
the prophet's flight through the heavens, that although he had various 
conversations with Moses and others whom he saw in heaven, he 
returned in time to prevent the falling of a silver urn, which 
Gabriel's wing happened to strike as they mounted on high ! Such 
are a few of their absurd legends concerning this marvelous rock. 
They serve at least to exhibit the puerility of Moslem ideas and the 
strength of their credulity. 

/ This edifice was no doubt built by Abd-el-Melek Ibn Marwan, 
though some attribute it to Khalif Omar. / But no one should 
accuse such a creature as this filthy Arab of' building such an edi 
fice: and moreover, we learn that the Mosk built by him was a 



500 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Mosk el-Aksa. 

very inferior structure except in size : and besides all this, there is 
a Mosk specially known by his name under the roof of Aksa. 

Mosk el-Aksa — Palatium — Portions seu Templum Solomonis — 
Church of the Presentation. — The large barn-like structure built 
against the southern wall of the Haram, on the interior, rather 
nearer its western than its eastern side, is called by the Moslem, 
Jamey el-Aksa — Mosk of Aksa. Apart from its modern additions 
on the east, which are mere workshops and magazines, it is a regular 
parallelogram in shape — two hundred and eighty feet in length, 
and a hundred and eighty-three in breadth. The central portions, 
on the east and the west, only rise thirty or forty feet ; the central 
body of the building is about twice that height ; and the dome at 
its southern extremity is nearly as lofty as that of Kubbet es- 
Sakhrah, though considerably smaller. 

There seems to be no particular style of architecture predominant; 
but rather a jumble of various orders, composite ad infinitum. It 
looks as if it may have been built in cruciform shape originally, 
and been brought into quadrangular form by lateral additions to 
the breadth of the transepts. Its portico, which is on the north, 
directly facing the Dome of the Hock, extends the entire breadth 
of the. present building, and is not specially imposing. There are 
seven front doors, corresponding to the number of arches in the 
porch, the easternmost of which gives entrance into the isolated 
apartment, where alone the women are permitted to worship.* 
Scarcely a doubt can be entertained that this is one of the Mary- 
churches built by the Emperor Justinian, and described by Proco- 
pius, the thaumaturgic historian of his architectural works. The 
Saracens seem to have converted it into a mosk, and metamorphosed 
it as much as possible. Its portico is said, by Arabian historians, 
to have been as completely covered with gold plate, by one of their 



* The arches throughout this church are stance upon which a false theory has been 
erroneously represented as pointed, in Mr. reared by several writers. 
Carh^wood's beautiful drawings — a circum- 



JERUSALEM — AS IT IS. 501 

Mosks and Colonnades of el-Haram. 

khalifs, as ever any portion of the Temple of Solomon was ; but, at 
this time, has neither gold nor anything else valuable about it. 

The Crusaders, on becoming possessed of it, greatly enlarged it 
by additions on the east — a dormitory, refectory, infirmary, and 
other offices, as well as a church. I observed, in walking over the 
south-eastern part of the Haram area, large patches of tesselated 
pavement, closely resembling that of the present Mosk el-Aksa ; 
which, in all probability, indicate the locality of the church there 
erected by the Franks. " The poor fellow-soldiers of Jesus Christ," 
as they quaintly enough styled themselves, had quarters assigned 
to them here by Baldwin II., A. D. 1119 ; and hence the name 
Templars, by which they became known. According to Hovenden, 
the murderers of Thomas a Becket lie interred in front of this build- 
ing — " Hie jacent miseri qui martyrizaverunt beatum Thomam 
Archiepiscopum Cantuariensum. 

Mosk of Abu Bekr. — This building is situated between el-Aksa 
Mosk and the western wall, being about two hundred and forty 
feet in length, and seventy in breadth — used for educational as well 
as devotional purposes — a very plain hall with the exception of a 
fine pulpit or two. 

The Mugrabin Mosk. — At a distance of about thirty feet from 
the western wall this Mosk of the Western African negroes runs 
off at nearly right angles to the Mosk Abu Bekr, and parallel to 
the western Haram wall. It consists of a single hall one hundred 
and seventy-three feet long and twenty-five wide, having a portico 
in front. The space between this Mosk and the wall is a large pub- 
lic court, in front of the premises occupied by Abu Seud Effendi, 
one of the Town Clerks, the southern end of which is covered by 
four pretty little domes. And on the wall is quite a picturesque 
kiosk or summer-house belonging to this functionary. 

The Colonnade running around the remainder of the northern 
and western sides of the Haram, includes within it various cells, 
cloisters, &c, for religious and educational purposes, as well as dor- 



502 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Smaller edifices of the Haram. 

mitories for the Mauritanian Eunuchs, and Dervish snake charmers. 
In a room beneath one of these cells, the entrance to which is just 
above the Mogrebin Gate, is an iron ring, very much venerated by 
the faithful, as being the identical martial ring, they say, where the 
Great Prophet tied the celestial mule the night of his never-to-be- 
forgotten-or-questioned ascent to heaven ! It happens, however, to 
be quite a new piece of pious manufacture. 

Sidna Issa is the name of a small domed building in the south- 
east corner of the Haram, called " of our Lord Jesus," in the lower 
room of which is an irregularly shaped trough, made of Jerusalem 
marble, usually called a sarcophagus, but is more probably a bap- 
tistery — at least it resembles such as I have seen in the Greek 
Churches for the baptism of children. There is a genuine sarco- 
phagus, however, in the Mekhemeh, in which the drinking-water of 
the city council is kept — a royal one too — being brought, as they 
affirm, from the Tombs of the Kings. 

The Mart of Science, strangely enough so called, is another small 
domed building immediately adjacent on the west. 

The Altar of David, now in ruins, is situated midway between 
the Mart of Science and the Mosk el-Aksa. The buildings around 
the platform are principally used for offices, though some of them 
are occasionally occupied by pilgrims. 

Coursi Suliman, where the faithful profess to exhibit the Royal 
Throne of the Son of David, is a much venerated and very sacred 
locality, adjoining the east wall, about half-way between the Golden 
Gateway and the north-east corner. 

The Dome of the Chain, or Judgment Seat of David, is a beautiful 
little fane, situated twenty feet east of the Dome of the Rock. It 
is said to have been built as a model for the Kubbet es-Sakhrah ; 
but if so, it has been but poorly imitated. The idea that it was a 
treasure house is equally absurd. It was no doubt designed merely 
as a praying-place. There are many little oratories scattered about 
the sacred precinct, as may be seen by reference to the plan, and 
innumerable niches for private devotions, accommodating but one 



JERUSALEM — AS IT IS. 



503 



Minarets of the Haram. Substructions of south-east corner. 

person. The pulpit, situated a few feet north-west of the gateway, 
immediately between el-Aksa and Kubbet es-Sakhrah, is a perfect 
gem of art. It is from this « Sacred Stand," that prayers are regu- 
larly offered up for the Sultan. 

The Minarets of the Haram, to which there are no less than four 
attached, contribute not a little to its architectural beauty. The 
dark green cypresses that so gracefully wave their tall heads over 
the sacred enclosure once adorned by the most splendid marbles 
and precious stones contrasting so richly with the silvery olive and 
stunted acacias, cannot fail to remind the observer of the fulfilment 
of the prophecy denounced by Micah the Morasthite (iii. 12) ; and 
this interest is keenly enhanced on learning that some of these 
trees, as if in derision to Zion, were specially imported from Stam- 
boul, the very head quarters of the " worst of the heathen I" 

Substructions of South-east Corner — Solomon s Stables. — The 
substructions under the south-east corner of the Haram are doubt- 
less alluded to by Josephus in describing the construction of the 
Temple wall. The declination of the hill being greater here than 
elsewhere, it was found more advantageous to bring it to a general 
level, by erecting vaults upon lofty columns, than by filling up either 
with solid masonry, or by earth as in the case of the narrow 
ravines. 

The length of the rock galleries or substructures from east to 
west is three hundred and nineteen feet ; from north to south the 
length of the avenues varies considerably, being two hundred and 
forty-seven and a quarter feet at the triple gateway ; they are quite 
short on the east, with the exception of the colonnade leading from 
this gateway, but become one hundred and eighty-six feet six inches 
in. length as they approach the eastern wall. (See plan on large 
Map.) The keenest controversies have been waged about these sub- 
structions, which are undoubtedly of the highest antiquity, and pre- 
eminently possess the peculiar features of Jewish architecture : and 
as they are more or less involved in all the various schemes for the 
restoration of the Temple, it will be well to give the details of my 



504 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Substructions of south-east corner of Haram. 

measurements* — a bird's-eye view of which is seen, in situ, at the 
south-east corner of the Haram enclosure — which will enable the 
reader the better to appreciate the accompanying perspective view 
of these remarkable substructures. 




SUBSTRUCTIONS SUSTAINING THE SOUTH-EAST CORNER OF THE HARAM ES-SHEIUF YARD. 

Measurement of Substructions. — Proceeding westward from the 
eastern wall along the second row from the southern wall, the follow- 
ing is a correct statement of the sizes of the pillars or piers, and 
walls, with the distance between each in feet and inches. 



* It is to be regretted that there is not a the lato Mr. Catherwood, who also had an 
closer coincidence between my measurements opportunity of making a plan of these sxib- 
;i.nd those of that able architect and engineer, structions. 



JERUSALEM — AS I T I S. 



505 



Measurement of ground plan. 



Spaces from interior of wall to pier . 


. 10 ft. 1 in. 


Thickness of pier 


. 3 ft. 5 in 


Next space " " 


10 


1 




3 


5 




12 


10 




3 


5 




13 


3 




3 


3 




23 




J-DicKness ot wail 


4 


10 




23 


4 




3 


3 




1 7 


10 




3 


g 




. 17 


7 




. 3 


6 


H « it 


. 14 


9 




. 3 


6 


It (( (I 


17 


3 




3 







. 17 


6 




. 3 


6 


(t a a 


. 17 


4 




. 3 


6' 




1 Q 
1 O 


A 




Q 


6 •• 




. 15 


10 


Thickness of pier 


. 4 






.5 


3 




. 4 




it u u 


. 14 


1 


Projection of pier 


. 1 


8 




258 


7 




60 


6 




60 


6 










319 


1 









The three last spaces comprise the interior of the Triple Gate, 
embracing a distance of fifty-three feet two inches : but deducting 
from it the projections from the two walls, one foot eight inches 
from the western, and six inches from the eastern, it corresponds 
exactly with the width on the outside — fifty-one feet. 

Measured from south to north along the third row from the east- 
ern wall, their length is one hundred and eighty-six feet seven 
inches, divided as follows : — 



Space from interior of wall to pier 



11 ft. 8 in. 
11 

5 
4 
10 
9 

10 
2 



Thickness of pier 



11 10 



3 ft. 8 in. 
5 



* Projection. 



506 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



South-east corner of Haram. Position and size of its sustaining pillars. 



. . 12 ft. 2 in. " " . . 3 ft. 5 in. 

. . 12 2 « "..35 

. . 12 " *s . . 3 11 



144 2 42 5 

42 5 

186 7 

There are seven rows of this length, but the next two are only 
about half as long ; and the remaining three are still shorter, 
embracing the width of only three ranges. Then comes the Triple 
Gate passage, the westernmost arcade of which extends two hundred 
and forty-seven feet, but the middle and easternmost are both shorter. 
Measured on the westernmost wall, the recesses and pilasters alter- 
nate as follows : — 



Jam projection 3 ft. 6 in. 

Projection of wall, or broad pilaster 8 3 

Recess of wall 10 ft. 7 in. Pilaster or projection of wall . • . 4 

10 7 " " "..41 

10 7 " . 4 

10 8 << <• . " . . 4 

« m ... . . 10 7 Wall : ;", . . . . 167 



53 00 194 10 

53 



247 10 

At the commencement of the wall the solid rock forty-two feet 
long projects about a yard from the ground, the upper end of which 
is arched for about fifteen feet. In front of the western door of 
Triple Gate is an oval-shaped well five or ten yards in diameter. 
In the third recess is a doorway, now blocked up, but formerly, 
perhaps, communicating with the Mosk el-Aksa. 

The following arrangement obtains in the two rows of piers in the 
triple gateway passage : — 



JERUSALEM — AS IT IS. 



507 



Position and size of pillars of substruction. 



Internal projection of triple gate pier . . . . . . 10 ft. 8 in. 

Space to next pier 11 ft. 7 in. Thickness of pier . . 5 

9 8 " . . 5 

.98 / " »« . . 4 11 

.......97. " ■ " . . 4 10 

7 8 " « . " ..38 

. 7 8 " « . . 5 

9 6 '< . ' «« . . 5 

9 6 " " . . 5 

" M 9 6 » " . . 5 

" 9 6 " " . . 4 11 

9 6 « " . . 4 11 

i " «« 9 6 Length of wall . ... 74 



112 10 137 11 

137 10 



250 08 



Two octagonal columns, feet in diameter, support the arches 
on each side of the gateway, that rest upon the gate piers, and the 
next two succeeding piers, as represented in the accompanying 
woodcut. 




TRIPLE GATE UNDER MESJID EL-AKSA. 



508 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Measurements of substructions. 

Between the sixth and seventh piers are large masses of live 
rock, and a descent into the earth ; but entirely choked, with rubbish — 
as is also a large archway. There is a gradual ascent from the Triple 
Gate to the termination of the passage, which nearly comes in con- 
tact with the vaults. May not the bullocks and other large victims 
have been introduced into the Temple by this gentle ascent ? 

Measurement across the northern end of Substructions, going westward. 
Interval from east wall to first pier . 12 ft. in. Thickness of pier . . 3 ft. 5 in. 





13 


11 


. . 3 


5 


tt 


U 


j 








13 


n 


li 3 


9 




23 


6 


. . 4 


10 




22 


10 


. . 3 


2 




19 


6 


. . 3 


5 




119 


10 


25 


5 




25 


5 








145 


3 







It is thus perceived that these arcades, instead of running parallel 
with the eastern wall, and with each other, are divergent — having 
gained nine feet four inches in the space of seven ranges ; by which 
arrangement the remainder are made perpendicular to the south 
wall. 

The piers near the south wall are composed of five of these 
quadrilateral stones, whose breadth and thickness are always less 
than their height, which is about five feet. The vaults are here 
about thirty feet high ; though the lower portions of the piers are 
so much concealed by rubbish, that not more than twenty-five feet 
appears. The Saracenic door is entirely concealed by a large heap 
of dirt and rubbish. The windows on the exterior are about one 
foot below the vaulted ceiling. The thickness of the vaults, inclusive 
of the earth upon them, is about five feet. The large stones in the 
south-east corner, serving as a foundation for Sidna Issa, are very 
irregularly piled together — indicating great carelessness in its con- 



JERUSALEM — AS IT IS. 



509 



Prison of a demon. Substructions of Aksa Mosk. 

struction. The lower courses of stones in the eastern wall of the 
Temple project very irregularly, and have never been squared off. 

About midway the easternmost range of arcades, we were shown 
the rock in which Solomon tortured the demon. The guides 
informed us very gravely that some of the faithful, conceiving the 
idea that there was treasure concealed in it, attempted to get 
at the contents by means of a pickaxe ; but the first blow caused 
the devil to cry out, "Let me alone." And, sure enough, they 
did; nor has any one been since found with courage requisite 
to the task of repeating the experiment ! Its height is six 
feet, its length four and a third, and its breadth three and three- 
fourths ; and is precisely like those now serving as pedestals to the 
Triple Gate piers. Hundreds of small pyramidal piles of stones 
are seen all about the floor — the Ebenezer memorials of devout 
Moslem devotees from the ends of the earth. Large roots of olive- 
trees have found their way through the northern portion of some 
of the vaults, where they are but a short distance above the floor ; 
and slender radical filaments several yards in length are gracefully 
pendent from many parts of the vaulted ceiling. This is also a 
favorite haunt for owls, hawks, and ravens. 

Judging from appearances, these piers may all be ascribed to 
Solomon or his immediate successors, though the vaults are appa- 
rently more modern. At the Triple Gate, the floor within coincides 
with the surface of the ground without ; but at the south-east angle 
it is about twenty-two feet higher. 

Substructures of el- Aksa, — Having described the substructions 
in the south-east corner, we pass on to those beneath the Mosk 
el-Aksa. Immediately within the double gateway, usually called 
"Huldah's Gate," is a vestibule or entrance-hall fifty feet long, 
and forty-two wide, which is the width of the passage throughout. 
In the centre of this hall, is a monolithic column of the ordinary 
limestone of the country, six and a quarter feet in diameter, and 
twenty-one feet high, with foliated capital of no special order, 
but yet tasteful, from the top of which spring the arches that 



510 



CITY OF THE GREAT KOU. 



Substructions of el-Aksa Mosk. 




support the four domes, composing the ceiling. There are four 
white Corinthian columns attached to the doorway — one to each 
side of each door ; but they are by no means well paired. From 
between the two middle Corinthian pillars, a pier projects inward 
about twelve feet, whose termination is pillar-shaped. At the 
middle of the northern end of this hall, is an oval pillar, whose 
diameters are six feet eight inches by four feet six inches, in the 
midst of a flight of steps once extending the whole breadth of the 
room ; but now only to be seen on its western half, those on the 
eastern side being concealed by some large blocks of Jewish 
stones, and a modern Turkish wall. These nine steps at the 
commencement of this upper passage, occupy a space of about 
nineteen feet in length, and eight and three-quarters elevation. 
The floor of this passage is horizontal for a distance of one hundred 
and twenty-four feet ; there is then a gentle inclined plane for the 
space of twenty-five and a half feet, after which it is again level for the 
space of thirty-eight feet, to its termination at the north foundation 
wall of el-Aksa, where entrance is had to the area above by a flight 



JERUSALEM— AS IT IS. 511 

Substructions of el-Aksa Mosk. 

of steps, being two hundred and fifty-nine feet long. This passage 
is divided throughout its entire length by either piers, pillars, or a 
wall. Several short walls also run across to its eastern side, either 
from piers or the longitudinal wall. The eastern half of the passage 
is either really or thus apparently made shorter than the other. 
Two low segmental vaults overspan this double passage its entire 
length. This passage is not situated medially beneath el-Aksa 
Mosk, but somewhat east of its central line. The entire workman- 
ship of the vaulted passages is characteristically Jewish, with the 
exception of some trifling Turkish additions and alterations. But 
the lower room or vestibule to the passage has been considerably 
Romanized ; and the entablature on the exterior must also be 
referred to Roman architects. The idea is entertained by some, 
that much of the furniture and treasures of the ancient Temple lie 
concealed on one side or the other of this passage, and a closed door 
on the eastern side of the vestibule seems to indicate that there is 
vacant space between this passage and that of the Triple Gateway. 
But none of the keepers of the Haram are of that opinion; nor 
had they even heard that there is any void space westward of the 
passage. 

An attempt to penetrate the wall on the west of the vestibulum 
has been made, and half a dozen large stones removed from the 
interior face ; but whether the remaining thickness of the wall was 
found too firmly fixed to be removed, or has been partially removed 
and (no vacuity being found) was replaced, I could not learn — 
the attempt not having been made in modern times. The sugges- 
tion that hidden treasure might be concealed in that unknown place, 
so excited the good Effendi's curiosity, that he expressed his inten- 
tion to explore it, should it not prove utterly impenetrable. But it 
is highly probable, that even if there were no projecting native rock 
there originally, that the position of such an immense bridge as that 
abutting against the neighboring wall, would require that this place 
should be filled with solid masonry. The subterranean pools 
discovered during these explorations are noticed under the water 
resources of Jerusalem. 



CHAPTER XVIII. 



WATER RESOURCES OF JERUSALEM. 

According to Mejr ed-Din, " the Mohammedans believe that all 
the water on earth comes from under the Sakhrah, which is a marvel, 
because being without support on any side, it is supported only by 
Him who supported the heavens, which can only fall on the earth 
by His permission ;" and yet, at this time, there is not a single 
perennial stream of water in the whole city of Jerusalem ; and only 
one is to be found throughout all its immediate environs. There is 
a small stream which for a few weeks in the winter flows down a 
short bifurcation of the Kedron Valley, half a mile above Jerusalem ; 
and a mile below the city another ephemeral fountain (ain ed-Dur- 
rage) gushes forth violently a few weeks in the winter, whenever 
the well En-rogel overflows — running a few hundred yards in con- 
junction with the En-rogel stream, and then sinking into the earth 
like the one above. But Siloam is the only perennial stream about 
Jerusalem — if indeed that can be called a perennial stream which 
only flows a few hours daily, and runs only a few hundred yards 
before it is all absorbed by the earth — the Siloam gardens. Nor 
is this deficiency of running water compensated by numerous wells 
of living water : for there is but one such well within the limits of 
the city, and one without. Some writers mention another, situated 
between Absalom's Pillar and the Kedron Bridge ; but the Fellah 
whom I lowered down to explore it, reports that it is supplied 



JERUSALEM— AS IT IS. 



513 



En-rogel, or Well of Joab. 

entirely (as it evidently is in part) by the rains, and is more than 
one hundred feet in circumference. Some writers enumerate the 
Well of Flagellation and the two large tanks at Damascus Gate 
amongst the living waters of Jerusalem ; but improperly so. For 
the two latter (the northernmost one of which is sometimes called 
the "Pool of the Cotton Grotto") are entirely dry the latter part 
of summer, and evidently supplied by rain-water conducted into 
them by drains on the side of the road. The Well of Flagellation 
was dug in Ibrahim Pasha's reign, and seems at no time to have 
less than a depth of three or four feet of water ; but it has no per- 
ceptible inlet or outlet — the water apparently oozing into it from 
the surrounding rubbish, and finding no way of escape, overflows in 
the winter. It is not specially palatable, and abounds in animalculse : 
but "good padre Charley" serves it to his visiters with such special 
good grace, that the traveller likes to sip a little of it that he may 
with better grace buchshish the good-natured friar with a few piasters. 

Such is the scanty supply of water at present : but if the site of 
Jerusalem was not originally well supplied with water, why was 
not Etham, Betir, Mispah, or other places in its neighborhood, 
abounding with water, and equally defensible, selected as the capital 
of Israel ? The inference is, that it was at least sufficiently well 
supplied. Referring the reader, however, to Chapter IX. for an 
account of the supply of water with which the city was furnished 
at former periods ; the object of the present chapter will be 
simply to speak of the now existing water resources of the Holy 
City. 

Bir Eyub — Bir Tilab — Well of Job or Joab — Well of Nehemiah 
— Well of Fire — Lucilliana — En-rogel. — Just below the junction 
of the Hinnom and Kedron Valleys, at the head of Wady en-Nair* 
or Valley of Fire, is a deep well of living waters, called by the pre- 
sent Christian population of Jerusalem, the Well of Nehemiah ; but 
known amongst the Turks and Arabs under the appellation of Bir 
Eyub, or Yuab — Well of Job or Joab. It is called Nehemiah's 
33 



514 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Traditions concerning En-rogel. 

Well because " tradition saith"* that here the zealous old reformer 
recovered the holy fire of the altar from a cave communicating with 
the bottom of this well, where it had been concealed ever since the 
destruction of the Temple by Nebuchadnezzar. In consequence 
of this legend it was for many ages called " Puteus ignis" — hence, 
also, the name of this valley — Valley of Fire — Wady en-Nair. No 
plausible reason is assigned why it should be named after the pious 
old patriarch of Uz ; but the Arabs allege that this is the well 
whereof God said to Job, " Put thy foot in this cold hole." Nor is 
the secondary part played by Joab in the rebellion of Adonijah 
here concocted, a very plausible reason for naming it after that 
reckless chieftain. This wellf occupying precisely the spot where 
we should expect to find the En-rogel of Joshua, it is doubtless that 
famous landmark between Benjamin and Judah ; but as nothing is 
heard of it for many long ages, it was probably sealed by some of 
the various possessors of Jerusalem, in order to deprive their ene- 
mies of its use, and left in that condition for centuries. That this 
was temporarily the case in the days of the Crusaders, we may be 
assured ; for we are told by various chroniclers of the Crusades, that 
all the fountains about the city were thus stopped. Nor can it be 
doubted that it was one of the fountains stopped by Hezekiah. 
(2 Chr. xxxii. 4.) 

It has probably been frequently deepened and enlarged in the 
lapse of ages. Mejr ed-Din reports from other authors that " it is 
constructed of large stones, each ten cubits long and four wide, and 
it is marvellous how they can have been let down such a depth. It 
was dug to the depth of eighty cubits in a time of drought ; the 
water is fresh, and at that depth, except in the winter, when it 
overflows, inundates the valley, and turns a mill. J I descended into 
the well with the laborers, to dig there." Its present depth is one 



* For full account see 2 Mac. i. 18-36. 

f- Josephus calls it a fountain — in the Latin version fons — in the Greek irr\yr\. 
% A large millstone still to be seen in the valley below gives some slight confirmation to 
this assertion. 



JERUSALEM— AS IT IS. 515 
Overflowing of Bir Ytiab and Ain ed-Durrage. 

hundred and twenty-four feet : but the height at which the water 
stands is exceedingly fluctuating — and sometimes actually over- 
flows — not generally at its mouth, but finds exit under an arch 
about ten feet below, on its south side — rising out of the ground 
behind a stone fence, forty yards lower down the valley. 

The following extract from my note-book will give a sufficient 
idea of the height of water at various seasons, and the quantity 
vented when it overflows. 

Oct. 26th, 1852.— Depth of water in Bir Yuab (before the fall 
of rain), 42-J feet. Hundreds of donkey loads of water daily carried 
to the city — perhaps a thousand. 

Sept. 12th, 1853. — Two thousand donkey loads daily carried to 
the city = 4000 skins or 25,000 gallons. 

Oct. 7th.— Only 6 J feet depth of water. 

Nov. 18th. — 21 feet deep. This increase of depth is not due to 
the few showers that have fallen ; but because much less is now 
required for city consumption — since a little rain has found its way 
into the tanks. 

March 2d, 1854. — The well has been overflowing vigorously for 
some days — also the fount ed-Durrage — the former venting at least 
two or three hundred gallons per minute, and the latter perhaps 
forty or fifty. Well continued overflowing till the last of March — 
twenty-four or twenty-five days in all. 

April 6th. — Well has been again overflowing two or three days ; 
though not venting more than twenty gallons per minute — and this 
stream is absorbed into the earth before it reaches Ain ed-Durrage, 
four hundred yards below. 

Adjacent to the well, on the north, is a small stone building, 
within and around which are five or six stone-plastered troughs, 
about ten feet long and four or five wide and deep. Anxiously did 
I await such a period of exhaustion of its waters that I might be 
enabled to explore it ; but during the whole period of my sojourn 
at the Holy City, never did it subside sufficiently. But the Arabs 
who had descended the well assured me that there was quite a lake 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Ain ed-Durrage. Ain Sitte Myriam or Virgin's Fount. 

connected with it ; but so low was the passage connecting it with 
the well, that it could only be entered when the water was nearly 
exhausted. Ten or fifteen yards south-west of the well is a small 
wely called Lewan, and a tank in front of it, about forty feet 
square, now usually filled by the winter rains. 

Ain ed-Durrage. — This ephemeral fountain, situated four hundred 
yards below this well, undoubtedly derives its water either directly 
from Bir Eyub, or from a source common to them both : — for it 
never flows till the former is actually overflowing, or nearly full 
enough to vent itself through the underground passage outwards. 
A tradition, current amongst the Moslems, and challenged by none, 
declares that there is a flight of steps reaching from the bottom of 
the Well of Joab to this fountain, by which access was once had 
to these nether aquatic regions ! 

Virgin's Fount — Dragon's Fount. — Fount of Siloam — Fount 
of the Sun — Bath of Samuel — Bethesda — Ain Silwan Fowk — Ain 
Sitte Myriam — Ain Om ed-Durrage. — This celebrated fountain is 
nowhere mentioned in the Scriptures or the writings of Josephus, 
though known at various times by the name of almost every piece 
of water about the Holy City. It makes its appearance in the 
pierced side of Ophel, on the west of the Valley of Kedron, 
about 365 yards from the south-west projection of that ridge, 
and is well worthy of minute examination : but the accompanying 
diagram and illustration enable us to dispense with much verbal 
description. The usual depth of water in this receptacle is only 
about three feet at present, on account of loose stones and rubbish 
within it. Its main stream issues from beneath the north end 
of the lowest step, but it also rises about midway the pool on the 
south side, boiling up with considerable force. A dropping and 
trickling may also be heard, showing that it descends considerably. 
This stream ebbs and flows quite irregularly; but generally three 
or four times per day in autumn, and oftener in spring — running 
from two to four hours in the twenty-four, and appearing perfectly 
quiescent during the remainder of the day; although a little water 



JERUSALEM — AS IT IS. 517 



Irregular flow. The Ophel Tunnel. 




virgin's fount. 



always runs. In general, its flow is not perceptible thirty minutes 
after the first gush, and sometimes not even fifteen : but this de- 
pends entirely upon the amount of rain that has fallen the previous 
season. Its temperature is very uniformly about 65° Fahrenheit, 
throughout the year. The tortuous channel that conveys this 
stream to the Pool of Siloam has been thoroughly examined by 
Drs. Robinson and Smith, as well as by some few other adventurous 
explorers ; but I was not so successful myself — having reached a 
point (after crawling several hundred feet) where, owing to an 
accumulation of rubbish, there was barely room to keep my mouth 
out of the water, even when my head was pressed against the upper 
surface of the channel, I was compelled to abandon the enterprise, 
and crawfish it, as best I could. But though thus thwarted in my 
effort, this was quite a fortunate issue of the adventure compared 



518 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



The rock-cut channel between Virgin's Fount and Siloam. 

with that of the Abbe Des Massures, in 1819, who was compelled 
to remain twenty-four hours in the canal through fear of the Arabs, 
The length of this passage is stated at 1750 feet by Dr. Robinson, 
and no doubt correctly — though, in a direct line, the two extremi- 
ties cannot be much more than 1000 feet apart. These gentlemen, 
however, are evidently mistaken in their conclusion that there is no 
4 'lateral passage by which water might come in from another 
quarter." On closely examining a passage turning north, at a 
distance of forty-nine feet from the upper extremity, it was found 
to be the termination of the channel leading across Ophel from 
Mount Zion, and explored as far as a point near the present Mu- 
grabin Gate. 

This receptacle was evidently more capacious at one time — at 
least in its southern and eastern dimensions. The present masonry 
has probably not been there much more than three centuries ; for 
Felix Fabri mentions that the fountain was descended « sine gra- 
dibus in arena," and originally it must, in the nature of things, have 
run down the Valley of the ■ Kedron. There was formerly an in- 
scription above the entrance, but it is now no longer decipherable. 
There are two Mihrabs (or praying-places), one within on the middle 
platform, and the other without, on a paved platform ; but the Mosk 
that once adorned its entrance has long since disappeared. That 
this place was once sealed and used as a well is rendered highly 
probable by an opening in the solid rock over the lower flight of steps, 
now partially stopped. This, of course, was one of the fountains 
sealed by Hezekiah ; and perhaps that great aqueductor also per- 
forated Ophel with its present channel. But if Hezekiah is not the 
actual author of this work, it was at least dictated by similar pdlicy. 
The conclusion that this fountain, pool, or well (for it either is or has 
been entitled to each designation) originally flowed down the Kedron, 
is irresistible, unless resort be had to the far-fetched theory that it 
is brought, not by a natural, but artificial channel, and diverted 
from some other quarter — a surmise which, though adopted by high 
authority, is not oniy entirely untenable, but too unreasonable to 



JERUSALEM — AS IT IS. 



519 



Design of the subterranean channel. 

need serious refutation. It was, no doubt, always outside the walls ; 
but by means of this canal was effectually diverted from the use of 
the enemy, and sent where it would either be consumed for domestic 
purposes or turned into the " Lower Pool" for defence. The top- 
most step is five feet above the channel of the Kedron at this point, 
and twenty-nine higher than the surface of the water : the difference 
of level therefore between the Kedron Yalley and the surface of the 
pool within is twenty-four feet. But the Kedron soon sinks far 
below the level of this water. 




PLAN OF VIRGIN'S FOUNT (PERPENDICULAR SECTION). 



*In beautiful contrast with the general nudity and arid sterility of 
the soil around Jerusalem, during the larger portion of the year, is 
"her garden and her pleasant green;" that " sparkling gem" 
occupying the ancient site of the " King's Gardens and wine presses," 
in the "King's Dale," hard by Tophet — a paradise by Gehenna! 
The luxuriant vegetation that characterizes this charming spot is 
due to the fertilizing influence of the waters of a pool, elevated a 
few yards above it, in the mouth of the Tyropoeon, not far from 



* This sheet of water having become the extract from an article I published on a for 
subject of much discussion, I append an mer occasion. 



520 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Virgin's Fount. 

Isaiah's Tree — the world-renowned "Pool of Siloam." These are 
the "waters of Shiloah, that go softly" — softly at least — thus far, 
as saith Esaias ; yet on reaching the brink above this lovely spot 
they tumble, dash, splash, and rush from a hundred little cascades, 
and are distributed in a thousand murmuring rills for the irrigation 
of this paradisaical spot. This famous pool, however, is only the 
temporary receptacle of the water, and by no means its source, as 
was formerly supposed. Descending into the earth by a rude flight 
of steps just above its upper extremity, you perceive the terminus 
of a low, narrow channel, cut through the solid rock of Mount 
Ophel, barely large enough in some places to admit your prostrate 
body ; and if you have the curiosity and perseverance of a Pater 
Julius, a Robinson, a Smith, a Tobler, or a Paul Pry, and can so far 
humble yourself as to creep d la serpent seventeen hundred and fifty 
feet, you find yourself at last in a waist-deep little pool, three or 
four yards wide and six or eight long, where you can once more 
stand up and breathe freely ; though you are still far below the sur- 
face of the earth and twenty yards from daylight, which you reach 
on ascending two long flights of steps. 

The accompanying pictorial illustration represents a partial 
glimpse of the recesses - of this celebrated fountain as seen from 
above. Dr. Williams, in his "Holy City," pronounces this "one 
of the most picturesque <- pieces' about Jerusalem;" and my highly 
gifted friend, the late Mr. Bartlett, whom I once accompanied there, 
was lavish in praise of its picturesque beauty. This little subterra- 
nean pool is no other than the far-famed " Fount of the Virgin," so 
called because ecclesiastic tradition saith, that it was "here the 
mother of Jesus was accustomed to wash her linen." Its waters, 
though perennial, do not flow regularly, but intermit with consider- 
able irregularity, rushing furiously like a mountain torrent for 
twenty or thirty minutes, then intermitting for one or two hours, or 
in dry seasons, even a day or two. This phenomenon, though 
doubtless due to the natural action of a syphon-shaped reservoir in 
the heart of the mountain, is religiously supposed by the Turks and 



JERUSALEM — AS IT IS. 



621 



Intermittent character of the Fount explained. 

Arabs to be caused by a huge amphibious animal inhabiting the 
cavernous mountain, and hence the name by which they designate 
this mystic water — the Dragon's Fount. They sagely conclude that 
when the monster reposes, the water being thus effectually dammed, 
ceases to flow ; and can only run during his perambulations ! and by 
this simple article of faith, most philosophically and satisfactorily 
account for this hydrodynamical phenomenon. A learned contri- 
butor to the Bibliotheca Sacra, partly on account of its supposed 
propinquity to the "sheep" [market], but mainly on account of 
this phenomenon, supposes it to be the Bethesda of the Scriptures, 
where « Jesus said unto a certain man which had an infirmity 
thirty-and-eight years, 'Rise, take up thy bed and walk,' and 
immediately the man was made whole." But, for reasons elsewhere 
assigned, I can by no means concur in this opinion, not only because 
of the somewhat neological squinting of the reasoning by which 
this conclusion is argued — (the idea being that the " troubling of 
the waters by the angel" was nothing more nor less than this 
irregular rushing of the stream) — but for many other reasons, and 
especially because the assumed premises are most probably untrue. 
For there is no proof whatever of the intermittent character of this 
fountain, until a period long subsequent to the subversion of 
Jerusalem by the Romans, when the curse of God rested so signally 
upon the land, as entirely to dry up the sources of the Kedron and 
many other streams throughout this whole country once so abundant 
in brooks of water, of fountains and depths that spring out of 
valleys and hills." Had it been intermittent in the days of the 
Saviour and the apostles, Josephus, who so frequently speaks of the 
waters of Jerusalem in general, and so specifically describes the 
Pool of Siloam, would not have failed to inform his heathen readers 
of a phenomenon so curious and to them so inexplicable. And 
besides this significant silence of the great Jewish historian, Tacitus, 
Aristeas, and Strabo, who all make special mention of the singular 
distribution of water about Jerusalem, are equally silent. But not 
only is Josephus profoundly silent on the subject, but he makes 



522 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Zemzam. 

special mention of a fact which is entirely inconsistent with such 
intermission of its current, i. e. that " it had sweet water in it, and 
this in great plenty also." For it is perfectly obvious that a great 
plenty of water would entirely arrest this intermission. This sweet 
taste is also a proof of its abundance : and were it to flow copiously 
again it would doubtless lose its present taste. Apropos, of its 
taste — Josephus pronounces it sweet; the author of "The Acts of 
God by the Franks," calls it tasteless ; another Crusader says bitter ; 
one modern tourist brackish ; and another milk-and-waterish! 
Sweet, bitter, tasteless, brackish, milk-and-waterish ! truly " de gus- 
tibus ** * disputandum est /" What a salmagundi potation ! Few, 
however, could be induced to decide upon its taste at Siloam, after 
having witnessed the foul ablutions practised by the Arabs and 
Turks in the waters of the upper fount. It is a very popular 
collyrium for ophthalmic offections ; and is believed by all classes 
of Moslems to be largely endowed with healing qualities : hence the 
numerous ablutions performed in it by men, women, and children, 
at all hours, from the first call of the muezzim at daylight to the 
last cry at bedtime. 

This is the mysterious Zemzam, or fountain of living waters, for 
which Jerusalem, like Mecca, is celebrated by some. Mohammed 
declared that this stream flowed from Paradise, and in our own 
lyrics it is much celebrated as 

" The brook that flows 
Fast by the oracle of God." 

Williams, Ferguson, and other eminent Biblical topographers, con- 
tend that it comes directly from the site of the threshold of the 
ancient Temple ; while others affirm that it is the very stream 
brought down subterraneously by Hezekiah when, seeing " that 
Sennacherib was come, and that he was purposed to fight against 
Jerusalem, he took counsel with his princes and his mighty men to 
stop the fountains which were without the city, and the brook that ran 
through the midst of the land, saying, Why should the kings of 



JERUSALEM — AS IT IS. 



523 



An aqueous and subterranean exploration. 

Assyria come and find much water?" But endless are the theories 
and surmises concerning this interesting stream. 

The thought occurred to me one very warm day, whilst residing 
on Mount Olivet, that an attempt to ascertain the true origin of this 
mysterious streamlet might neither be an unprofitable nor unpleas- 
ant way of spending an hour or two. I accordingly commenced 
my subter-aquatic explorations as stealthily as possible, for fear 
of raising a mob, crawling about with only a single candle in hand. 
Having loitered in the pool till the coming down of the waters, I 
soon found several widely separated places where it gained admit- 
tance, besides the opening under the steps, where alone it had for- 
merly been supposed to enter. I then observed a large opening 
entering the rock-hewn channel, just below the pool, which, though 
once supplying a tributary quite copious — if we may judge from its 
size — is now dry. Being found too much choked with tessara and 
rubbish to be penetrated far, I carefully noted its position and bear- 
ing, and, on searching for it above, soon identified it on the exte- 
rior, where it assumed an upward direction toward the Temple, and 
entering it through a breach, traversed it for nearly a thousand 
feet; sometimes walking erect, at other times bending low, now on 
hand and knee, and not unfrequently inching my way snake-fashion, 
until at last I reached a point near the wall, where I heard the 
donkeys nimbly tripping along over my head ; and then the pioneer 
of our party getting lodged, we were compelled to back out and 
retrace our way. I was perfectly satisfied, however, on subse- 
quently locating our course above ground with the theodolite, that 
this subterraneous canal derived its former supply of water, not 
from Moriah, but from Zion. Being foiled in my effort to ferret 
out the true source of the fountain in this direction, I then sought 
the Sheikh of the overhanging village of Silwan, who claims lord- 
ship of the fount, and deemed myself very fortunate in bargaining 
with him for permission to remove a few of the lower steps, beneath 
which the main stream entered the pool, for the moderate sum of 
only one hundred piasters, or one pound sterling, for the light of 



524 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Pool of Siloam. 

his countenance thus graciously vouchsafed ! I accordingly repaired 
there about ten o'clock at night, with all the secrecy practicable, in 
such a region of dogs and Arabs, and soon found him faithful to his 
appointment : not so, however, to his bargain ; for he immediately 
took me aside, and with palavering flattery, such as an Arab's 
tongue alone can ply, assured me that he was merely jesting about 
the paltry sum of a hundred piasters; that the "Angleseys" (the 
English) had repeatedly offered him five hundred piasters, which he 
had indignantly refused, but that as I was " Hakim American" and 
his special friend, he would only charge me four hundred ! My curi- 
osity immediately sank to zero, however anxious I had been to make 
exploration in this direction, and I at once abandoned the adven- 
ture. 

Pool of Siloam — Sent — Ain Silivan taht. — The present Pool of 
Siloam (which occupies undoubtedly the site of the ancient fountain 
or pool of that name) is situated in the Valley of the Tyropoeon 
on the Ophel side, about one hundred yards from its termina- 
tion. It is fifty feet long, fourteen and a half at the lower end, 
and seventeen at the upper — its western side being somewhat 
bent. It is eighteen and a half feet in depth, but never filled — 
the water either passing directly through, or being maintained at a 
depth of three or four feet. This is effected by leaving open or 
closing (with a few handfuls of weeds at the present day, but for- 
merly by a flood gate) an aperture at the bottom. At a height of 
three or four feet from the bottom its dimensions become enlarged 
a few feet, and the water attaining this level falls through an aper- 
ture at its lower end into an educt ; subterranean at first, but soon 
appearing in a deep ditch under the perpendicular cliff of Ophel, 
and is received into a few small reservoirs and troughs. A rude 
pair of steps, in the south-west corner, leads down to the water ; 
and a still ruder flight, just above its upper extremity, gives admis- 
sion to the enlarged extremity of the aqueduct that brings the water 
from the Fountain of the Virgin, and vents the water beneath these 
steps. Six pillars of Jerusalem marble are half embedded in its 



JERUSALEM — AS IT IS. 525 



Subtemplar Lake. 




POOL op siloam — 



Seen from above ; and exhibiting the site of the " Lower Pool," now 
cultivated as a garden— the " Tree of Isaiah" on its dam, and 
(beyond the " King's Gardens,") the site of Kn-rogel at the two 
houses in Wady en-Nair. 

eastern wall in most ruinous condition, said to be the remains of 
a Basilica over the pool. It receives its supply of water entirely 
from the Virgin's Fount by the tunnel chiselled through Ophel — 
hence its name Siloam — Sent. 

Waters of the Haram. — Great Reservoir of the Temple — 
" Royal Cistern" — Subterranean "Sea" of the Temple. — During 
our exploration of the Haram enclosure, we observed on removing 
a half-buried marble capital on one occasion, a rude subterranean 
passage, leading to a long flight of steps. The Effendi immediately 
dispatched some of the workmen for flambeaux, and prepared for a 
thorough exploration. Descending a broad flight of forty-four 



526 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Subterranean sheet of water. 




THE ROYAL CISTERN OF THE TEMPLE. 



wide steps cut in the native rock — but so worn in some places as 
to have required partial re-cutting, only a few centuries ago to all 
appearance — we reached a beautiful sheet of water. The Effendi 
mounted the shoulders of a Fellah and seemed to navigate the 
waters very pleasantly; while my sons and self spent our time 
certainly as pleasantly, in wading through its rude but venerable 
halls ; and making an accurate ground plan of it — finding the water 
nowhere much more than knee-deep. We afterwards spent a good 
portion of another day in its dark nether regions, completing and 
verifying the plat, taking other measurements, and making an 
accurate sketch — that here figured — a few minutes' inspection of 
which will convey a better idea of this long-lost place than many 
pages of written explanation. 

This sheet of water is, without doubt, the "Sea," of which the 
Son of Sirach and the Commissioner of King Ptolemy speak in such 



JERUSALEM — AS IT IS. 



527 



Royal cistern. 

rapturous terms. It is now however quite a rude piece of work — 
the massive metal-covered pillars having given place to ill-shaped 
piers, apparently of unhewn rocks, badly plastered ; the rapacity of 
some of the various spoilers of the devoted city — Syrian, Roman, 
Persian, Saracenic, Turkish, or Frank — having left it minus the 
lead or brass with which it was formerly encased. It is seven 
hundred and thirty-six feet in circuit and forty-two in depth : and 
according to the best estimate I could make, its capacity falls but 
little short of two millions of gallons ! The rain from el-Aksa is 
conducted into it by a small trench, and much also finds its way 
through small superficial channels leading from various parts of the 
Temple area into the same opening near El-Aksa Porch. We dis- 
covered no fountain in connexion with it, nor did we find the en- 
trance of the aqueduct from Solomon's Pools, which, we were told 
by one of the old keepers who had formerly visited this subterranean 
lake, enters it on the west, yet we cannot positively affirm that there 
is none ; nor did we discover any exit from it into the neighboring 
pool under el-Aksa; yet, as that pool, which is said to be very 
capacious, has no visible source of supply, there is probably a com- 
munication between them. It formerly had eight apertures above, 
through which the water was drawn up ; but only one remains open 
at this time. 

I am not able to say how many wells there are in the Haram en- 
closure — the larger ones having several mouths each ; but there are 
no less than thirty-two well-mouths ; though some of these reser- 
voirs are now disused and nearly filled with rubbish. The dimen- 
sions of only the few marked on the map could be ascertained. 
That under el-Aksa is forty-seven feet deep, that at Mugaribeh 
Gate twenty-seven and a half, and that on the right hand of the 
Cotton Bazaar, near Hammam es-Shefa, is only thirty-three feet in 
depth — a conclusive proof that it can receive no water by lateral 
connexion with the latter, as some have contended — being less than 
half its depth. According to Mejr ed-Din there were thirty-four 
of these wells or reservoirs in the Haram yard about three and a 



528 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Ain Hammam es-Shefa — Well of Healing. 

half centuries ago, and seven more beneath the great central plat- 
form. The most remarkable amongst these wells was that near the 
entrance to the Cotton Bazaar, thirty-three feet deep, entitled 
"Well of the Leaf." (See his account, section 3 of his Treatise.) 

Ain Hammam es-Shefa — Well of Healing. — The entrance to 
this mysterious well is situated ten feet south of the Cotton Bazaar, 
one hundred and twenty-five and a half feet from the Haram wall, 
and one hundred and seventy-six from the Valley Street. Its 
apparent depth is nearly eighty-five feet ; but subtracting eighteen 
and a half of this for the height of the house, upon the top of 
which its mouth opens, its real depth beneath the surface of the 
ground is only sixty-six and a half feet. Its mouth being ten feet 
higher than the general level of the Haram area, its bottom is, 
therefore, seventy-five feet below the level of the Haram. 

The following extract, from the pen of the accomplished Williams 
(Holy City, ii. 457), will serve to evince the interest felt in this 
mysterious Zemzam, and entertain the reader by recounting an 
amusing adventure : — 

" The next fountain which I shall mention is one within the city, 
near the area of the great mosk, known only by report until very 
lately, when an enterprising traveller undertook to explore it ; and 
the company to whom he related his adventure in the small shed 
built over the mouth of the well by which he effected his perilous 
descent, will not easily forget the thrilling sensations which his nar- 
ration produced. This fountain now supplies the Bath of Healing 
(Hammam es-Shefa), which is entered from the ruined Cotton Mart. 
The present mouth of the well is on the roof of the buildings attached 
to the bath, and is found to be about twenty feet above the level of 
the street. Dr. Robinson had in vain sought permission to explore this 
-.veil, but the reports which he had heard of it excited the curiosity 
of a countryman of his who was at Jerusalem in the winter of 1841-2, 
and he resolved, at all events, to descend. Having endeavored, 
without success, to induce the keeper of the bath to aid him in the 
undertaking, he prevailed on two peasants of a neighboring village 
to assist him. This was in the month of January. At the dead of 



JERUSALEM — AS IT IS 



529 



Aquatic adventure. 

night, attended only by a servant lad, and furnished with candles 
and matches, measuring-rule moreover, and a compass, forth he sal- 
lied, equipped as for an aquatic excursion. 

" Arrived at the well's mouth, he tied a cord around his body, 
and was lowered through the aperture by these fellahs, who had 
kept their appointment, but would, without doubt, have let the rope 
slip, and left their employer to his fate, on the slightest alarm. 
However, he survived to tell the tale ; an outline of which shall here 
be given. 

" The entrance to the well is not quite two feet square, but a few 
feet lower down it expands and becomes about twelve feet square, 
and is apparently hewn in the rock. His first adventure in this 
aerial journey was meeting the leathern bucket which had been tied 
at the other end of the rope as a counterpoise. It was < streaming 
at a dozen apertures, and for the rest of the way he was under a 
cold shower-bath, and could with difficulty keep his light without the 
circle of it.' The well was e : ghty-two and a half feet deep, and the 
water about four and a half. On arriving at the bottom, the vibra- 
tions of the rope, before he could get a footing, extinguished his 
light, and he was left in total darkness. He had observed, in his 
descent, four arched recesses in the rock, facing one another, and 
lower down, six feet above the water, a door-way leading into an 
arched chamber, which he contrived to reach, and here he refitted 
for his further voyage. The matches were dry, and other candles 
soon illuminated the darkness. The excavated chamber in which 
he found himself was only three or four feet in height, fifteen long 
by ten broad, and did not seem to be constructed with any refer- 
ence to the water. Opposite to this chamber he discovered a pas- 
sage which formed the water-channel. He had taken the precaution 
of bringing with him an India rubber life-preserver, which he found 
useful in his further explorations. He now descended into the 
water ; and, entering the passage, soon passed another excavation 
in the rock, of which he could make nothing. The passage beyond 
this was two or three feet wide, and about five feet high, covered 
84 



530 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



The adventure. 

with stones laid transversely, but very irregularly ; in some places 
were fragments of polished marble shafts, and in one place the 
end of a granite column had sunk obliquely into the passage. The 
bottom of the channel was not flat, but grooved ; the passage not 
straight, though its general course was direct ; and < the cutting so 
uneven as to suggest the thought that advantage might have been 
taken of a natural seam or fissure in the rock.' 

" Having followed this passage eighty feet, he was stopped by a 
basin or well of unknown depth, on the opposite side of which the 
wall shut down to the water, and presented another obstacle, even 
could the water have been passed. Unhappily he was obliged to 
return without any more satisfactory result. His exit is amusingly 
characteristic of cool intrepidity. He had barely breathing room 
or space for his candle between the surface of the water and the 
roof of the passage ; and one would think must have felt rather 
uncomfortable in such a position ; but he first measured the passage 
with his rule, then illuminated it with his spare candles, and having 
taken a last fond look, left them burning there, and returned to the 
well to prepare for his ascent. The rope was still there, and the 
natives above. The signal was given, and he again found himself 
swinging in mid-air, and in darkness ; the candle which he had 
reserved having been extinguished as before. His descent had been 
uniform, but he was necessarily drawn up at intervals, which caused 
a greater vibration. He spun around the dark vault, striking 
against one side and another, and was not sorry to find himself 
again beneath the open heaven. It is deeply to be regretted that 
this daring exploit was not attended with better success. Its results 
are very unsatisfactory to Mr. Walcott himself. He does not ima- 
gine that this excavation was originally a well : the artificial recesses 
and chambers in the rock he thinks are against it. It more nearly 
resembles some of the sepulchral excavations without the city. The 
direction of the passage he cannot positively determine, as he had 
injured his compass in the descent. He thinks it runs eastward m 
the direction of the Haram : but if so, it stops short of the enclo- 
sure forty-four feet. The passage may extend further, the water 



JERUSALEM— AS I T I S. 



531 



Another exploration. 

descending into a lower gallery ; if so, it could only be explored 
■when the water is very low. Two English travellers were anxious 
to attempt this at the end of a dry summer, but no one could be 
prevailed on to aid the undertaking, and it was abandoned. At 
that time it was necessary for a man to descend to the well in order 
to bring the water from a distance to supply the bath, as the floor 
of the chamber was dry. A close cross-examination of this man 
elicited that the water proceeded from an immense reservoir beneath 
the Haram, but it did not appear that he had penetrated so far. It 
must be remarked that the water is identical in taste with that of 
Siloam." 

Marvellous tales being still reported by the wonder-exciting 
Mohammedans concerning the wondrous subterraneous apartments 
yet unexplored, and startling theories based upon them, I felt no 
little desire to examine for myself and complete Mr. Walcott's ex- 
ploration. Accordingly — having obtained consent of its propri- 
etor — and that too without buckshish and without stipulation — (a 
fact so unprecedented in the ways and doings of the Turks, that it 
could but be interpreted most favorably) — I hired and spliced toge- 
ther two rope ladders, bought a new cord, and made all suitable 
arrangements for a descent ; and, accompanied by our Dragoman 
and one of my sons, with a Silwan fellah, well acquainted with the 
place, as cicerone, I accomplished the descent of this wonder-excit- 
ing well on the 19th of November, 1853 — being fully equipped with 
lights, measuring-line, compass, &c, and spent an hour or two in 
the exploration of its mysterious waters. 

Descending ten feet through the small four-sided funnel, not quite 
two feet square at top, and becoming still smaller at its lower end, 
the shaft was found gradually expanding in size and soon becoming 
cilindric. At a depth of twenty-eight feet are four small doorways, 
facing the cardinal points of the compass, and apparently shallow 
recesses behind them. The shaft enlarges to the size of ten or 
twelve feet about midway, and again becomes square : but a few 
yards before reaching the bottom it diminishes again and terminates 



532 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Exploration of Ain Hammam es-Shefa. 

in a basin eight feet square, covered with loose stones and gravel. 
At eleven feet from the bottom, in the north side of the well, is a 
doorway four feet thick, leading to a vaulted room eighteen feet 
long and fourteen wide. A passage rather circumscribed, varying 
in width from one and a half to several feet, leads from the south 
side of the well, which is mostly an artificial wall nine feet high— 
the passage being about ten or twelve feet wider here than else- 
where ; and for fifteen or twenty feet arched over with rocks appa- 
rently two feet by one and of very good workmanship. Only half 
of the vault is seen (in its longitudinal extent), the remainder 
being apparently concealed by later additions of masonry — though 
as these half-arches are very common in the east, the other half 
may probably never have been constructed. At the end of this 
archway, about twenty-four feet from the well, the passage is 
reduced in height to about six feet, and for eight or ten feet is over- 
laid by coarse slabs of marble a foot wide and half a foot in thick- 
ness at a point thirty-nine feet from the commencement — the course 
which the passage thus far has run — south 5° east, turns south 20° 
west, for eight feet, and is ceiled with eleven small white marble pil- 
lars, and one large one of coarser material, one end of which is partly 
fallen through — the last-mentioned twenty inches, and the former 
only seven in diameter. The passage now leads with slight variations 
of width, height, and direction due south thirty-five feet, where the 
flow of the water is interrupted by a rock, equal in length to the 
width of the passage, and about a foot in height, or rather in thick- 
ness, cemented across it transversely, serving as an occasional dam. 
Thus far the passage gradually ascends (perhaps only half a foot in 
all), but now it suddenly deepens three feet, and continues that depth 
with an increased width as far as it could be measured, which how- 
ever was only fourteen and a half feet. The ceiling of the passage 
which, as far as this reservoir, is nowhere less than four or five feet, 
here gradually declines till it comes in contact with the water, thus 
effectually arresting all further progress — greatly to our dis 
appointment. 



JERUSALEM — AS IT IS. 



533 



Exploration of Ain Hammam es-Shefa. 

The bottom of the passage from this reservoir to the well whence 
the water is drawn up, is not flat but concave, and has a small 
channel a few inches deep, cut perhaps — not by the hard chisel but 
by the soft waters — for, in the lapse of ages, " waters wear the 
stones." 

About twenty feet south of the well is a rough, irregular cave 
a few yards in extent on the east side, the mouth of which is about 
six or eight feet above the channel. There is also a square opening 
in the ceiling of the passage, a few yards farther south, leading to 
a small cave above. Various other small openings are also observable 
both in the lining wall and the native rock communicating with 
fissures and small caves. The total length of the channel of water as 
far as measured is one hundred and four and a half feet ; but the 
guide, who has often been down when the water was at a low stage 
(to empty it from the southern reservoir into the channel convey- 
ing it to the well), assured me that it extends at least a hundred 
feet farther in the same direction : but the low narrow passage can 
only be traversed when it is nearly exhausted of water. Although 
the native rock is visible at many places, for many yards in extent, 
yet most of the passage and the shaft is cased with masonry — of 
very inferior kind — though the room north of the well is hewn out 
of solid rock, which continues visible several yards above it. It 
was found impracticable to effect a landing in the small recesses 
indicated by the doors observed fifty or sixty feet above the water, 
though they appeared to be merely ornamental, and may have been 
in full view at the former level of the city. Touching the " large 
arched room supported by fourteen marble columns with capitals," 
the report of which is even credited by the tradition-hating authors 
of the Biblical Researches,* I have to report that it was not only 
"non-come-at-able," but "non inventus erat" 

The conclusions to which I had been necessarily brought by 
investigation elsewhere, in relation to the most interesting matter 



* Bib. Res. i. 508. 



534 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Former views of Ain Hammam es-Shefa incorrect. 




PLAN OF HAMMAM ES-SHEFA — (PERPENDICULAR SECTION). 



connected with the subject, were fully confirmed by this exploration, 
though materially different from any heretofore expressed, and are 
certainly justified by the facts of the case. Even had I not proved 
by previous analysis the fallacy of the assertion that this water is 
identical with that of the Virgin's Fount, Flagellation Well, Cotton 
Grotto, reservoir, &c, this examination would have induced a con- 
trary conviction — for instead of coming from the north, as such an 
opinion necessarily implies, the source of this fountain is directlv 
from the south, and therefore cannot be derived from either of the 
above-mentioned places. And having witnessed an unusually 
copious outflow of the Virgin's Fount of thirty-seven minutes' con- 
tinuance on the preceding Friday, about mid-day, after seven or 
eight hundred skins (four or five thousand gallons) had been drawn 
up for the bath and its supply well nigh exhausted, I was convinced 
that the outflow could not be owing, as is generally supposed, to the 
discharge of this alleged over-filled reservoir, by a rude kind of 
natural syphon. That it is not derived from a large fountain within 
the precincts of the Haram es-Sherif, as others contend, is also 
fairly inferable from the fact that the channel along which it flows, 
instead of coming from the east, in the direction of the Haram, 



JERUSALEM — AS IT IS. 



535 



Ain Hammam es-Shefa an independent fountain. 

approaches the well from the south as far as is ascertained either by 
report or actual examination ; so that when protracted it falls con- 
siderably short of even touching the most westerly corner of the 
Haram enclosure. 

But that its source is entirely independent of and totally discon- 
nected with any of the waters alluded to, or indeed any others what- 
ever, is obvious from the fact (at least when considered in connexion 
with their small supply), that no such source is discoverable, and 
that water trickles into it from nearly every portion of the interior ; 
and though only guttatim, yet, considering the large surface from 
which it exudes, is fully adequate to the daily demand, which is 
only about three or four hundred skinsful — except on Friday. Upon 
this Sabbatical day of the Moslem, about eight hundred skins are 
demanded for expurgatorial ablution. My own impression is, that 
a well (probably from former indications of moisture in the neigh- 
borhood) was originally sunk to the depth of the room, now ten feet 
above the bottom ; which, being plastered and shaped as cisterns 
generally are, was probably the original cistern, and long used as 
the receptacle. But the supply proving inadequate to the demands 
of later times, after the cessation of the latter rains, it was deepened 
and enlarged ; in process of which — following no doubt the leaky 
veins of porous chalky formation — a cave of crumbling material 
was reached, which required to be walled in and supported by 
masonry. Does not the profuse use of broken marble pillars for 
such common purposes indicate that this enlargement was subse- 
quent to one of Jerusalem's sad overthrows — perhaps after the 
return from Babylon ? The smaller ones perhaps may once have 
adorned a little Temple over the well ! Although there was not as 
much to be seen in these nether regions as was reported, yet, inas- 
much as I was enabled to clear up some difficulties connected with 
an interesting subject — at least to my own satisfaction — I was 
highly gratified with this Plutonic excursion : but right glad was I 
to regain the surface of the earth once more in safety — for I could 
but be most feelingly impressed by the perilous position in which I 



536 



CITT OF THE GREAT KING. 



Hezekiah's Pool — The Amygdalon or Almond Pool. 

found myself on the sudden snapping of one of the slender ropes 
of the ladder, when, even despite the cord fortunately tied around 
my body by way of security, the brittle thread of life had well 
nigh been severed. 

The fond tenacity with which many persons cling to the idea that 
this well is in connexion with an inexhaustible fountain under the 
threshold of the ancient Temple, is truly astonishing. In a late 
and interesting, but highly speculative work on the Holy Land, by 
Captain Allen, of the Royal Navy, he remarks in relation to the 
account of my exploration given by Mr. Bartlett (" Jerusalem Re- 
visited"*), « Dr. Barclay succeeded in examining this (Hammam es- 
Shefa), and says < the theory which ascribes its supply of water (to 
reservoirs under the Haram) is entirely disproved by the explora- 
tion.' I am not disposed fully to agree with this, although the hypo- 
thesis of the long passage being intended for the purpose of increas- 
ing the 'guttation,' is very plausible ; yet he did not, as it appears, 
reach the end of the passage, where alone the mystery is to be 
solved." 

Most evident is it, however, from what has been already stated, 
that this well does not communicate with any source of living water 
of the Haram, and more especially with one immediately under the 
threshold of the Holy Oracle. Nor can it be in connexion with any 
of the Haram reservoirs — for it is thirty-three feet lower than the 
large reservoir between Kubbet es-Sakhrah and el-Aksa, forty-two 
iower than that between the well and the supposed site of the Temple, 
and twenty-eight below that in el-Aksa — the most southern and the 
deepest reservoir in the Haram enclosure. 

Hezekiah's Pool — Amygdalon — Birket Hammam el-Batrak— 
Pool of Patriarch's Bath. — This pool is situated between Patriarch 
street and the Latin Patriarch's residence, and though entirely sur- 
rounded by houses, can at all times be seen by ascending to the top 
of the Coptic Convent, or any of the shops bordering upon it. Its 



* Page 87 of this very interesting and admirably illustrated work — the last production of 
this gifted author and artitt. 



JERUSALEM — AS IT IS. 5*7 



Pool of "llezekiab. Birket Israel. 




POOL OP HEZEKIAH. 



average breadth is about one hundred and twenty-six feet, and its 
present length two hundred and fifty-two feet ; but was formerly 
longer. Its depth below the average surface of the earth may be 
eight or ten feet — perhaps more ; but it is considerably deeper at 
the southern than at the northern extremity. It derives its supply 
entirely from the Mamilla Pool ; and usually has from two to six 
feet of water ; though it sometimes becomes entirely exhausted late 
in autumn. The water is drawn up to a considerable height at great 
expense of labor by two stout Fellahin, and sent across the street over 
a large stone arch to supply a bathing establishment — which being 
lower than the pool, might easily be supplied by a small leaden pipe 
acting as a syphon. But such a device as this, emanating from Chris- 
tians, the Simon-pure Moslem spurns. 

Birket Israel — Pool of Israel — Moat or Trench of Antonia — 
Bethesda ! — This capacious pool is three hundred and sixty-five feet in 
jength and one hundred and thiry-one in breadth ; and at its south- 
western corner is a continuation of it westwardly, nearly one hundred 
and forty-two feet in length and forty-five in breadth. This breadth, 



588 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Mekhemeh Pool. Hippie Cistern. 

however, is divided most of the way by a wall into two nearly equal 
* parts, and vaulted over as a foundation for houses. The wall now 
terminating this extension being quite modern, it is probable that it 
once extended farther west. Both the main pool and the extension 
were once more than fifty feet in depth ; but are now in some 
places nearly filled. The cement has generally fallen off above, and 
no doubt below also — hence, though much water runs into this pool 
during the winter, and continues to drain into it a long while after 
the rain has ceased, still no water is ever observed in it. That this 
trench cannot be Bethesda is abundantly shown elsewhere. 

Mekhemeh Pool. — Temple street passes over quite a large pool 
adjoining the wall between the Mehkemeh and the residences of the 
Cadi and Bashkatib, which I discovered in searching for remains of 
the Temple gates. Eighty-four feet of the Temple wall forms its 
eastern side ; its northern side is forty-two feet in length, and starts 
from the wall at the foundation of the minaret pertaining to Kubbet 
es-Sakhrah ; its southern extremity was also at one time forty-two 
feet in length, and its western side the same length of the eastern ; 
but the foundation of a house seems to have been built up in its 
south-western corner which diminishes its northern end to twenty-five 
feet and makes an angle in its western side. It probably extended 
much farther west originally. It is coated with cement, and is in a 
Very good state of preservation, though much filled with rubbish. Its 
widely expanded vault is well executed ; and all the workmanship 
is of quite superior style of execution. There is a fine arch and 
keystone over a new closed door ten or twelve feet from the bottom, 
in its northern extremity. It is not improbable that it was once much 
larger on the north as well as the west. It is only accessible at 
this time by passing through several dark cellars and passages from 
the Mekhemeh Garden, by way of the gate at the Wailing Place. 
There is also quite a large pool of water kept well filled, between 
this and Hammam es-Shefa— quite near the latter. 

Hippic Cistern. — There is a large cistern in el-Khala, near the 
Tower of Hippicus, said to be one hundred feet in length ; but we 



JERUSALEM— AS IT IS. 



539 



Bathsheba's Bath. Helena's Cistern. Birket es-Sultan. 

were not permitted to make any explorations there, on the only 
occasion upon which I ever visited the castle. 

Bath of Bathsheba — Monro describes this pool in his " Summer 
Kambles," as a mere "oblong pit, twenty feet deep, lined coarsely 
with small stones," thus intimating its modern origin. But Schubert 
says, " the architecture and the size of the stones seem to belong to 
the works of the ancient Jerusalem." The situation it occupied 
was immediately to the left on entering Jaffa Gate ; but it has been 
so completely filled up in the course of the last eight or ten years 
that no trace of it is now visible. Tradition has not yet decided 
whether this is the veritable pool at which Uriah's wife laved her- 
self, or whether the honor should be accorded to Birket es-Sultan, 
which also lays claim to this mark of distinction. But here again 
tradition is most egregiously at fault. For it could be at neither 
of these pools that Bathsheba was bathing when David saw her, as 
neither of them could, by any possibility, have been seen from "the 
roof of the king's house, where David was walking in an evening- 
tide, when he saw the woman washing herself." (2 Sam. xi. 2.) 
The legend is evidently based upon the erroneous impression that 
the Tower of Hippicus, built by Herod the Great, was the Palace 
of David : and is entirely unworthy of credit. 

Helena's Cistern — Treasury of Selena. — This reservoir is 
situated near the reputed rock of Golgotha, in the Coptic Convent : 
it is about sixty feet long and thirty wide, and has a constant 
supply of cool sweet water, said to be inexhaustible — "nullus fons 
vel puteus." Quaressimus says it was not far from "the < Bap- 
tisterium,' which was square without — within, rose-shaped." 

Lower Pool of Gihon — Birket es-Sultan — Sultans Pool — 
" Great Pool" — Lacus Grermanicus. — This immense pool, averaging 
six hundred feet in length by two hundred and sixty in breadth, is 
situated in the Valley of Ben Hinnom, about a quarter of a mile 
below Jaffa Gate ; but at present retains water only a short time. 
It is by far the largest piece of water in all the environs — containing 
a sheet of more than three and a half acres, when full. 



540 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Upper Gihon, Cotton Mogara and el-Hijjeh Pools. 

"Upper Pool of Gihon" — BirJcet el-Mamilla — Serpent's Pool. — 
The traditional reservoir thus called, is situated at the head of the 
Valley of Hinnom, nearly half a mile north-west of Jaffa Gate, 
and is at present supplied entirely by the rains that drain in it from 
the surrounding basin. It is three hundred and fifteen feet in 
length, and about two hundred and eight in breadth, with a depth 
of fifteen or twenty feet. The water is conducted to Birket el- 
Hammam by a very inferior kind of aqueduct — a mere ditch, run- 
ning on the surface of the ground most of the way, but dipping 
quite deeply in passing beneath the city wall. Being surrounded 
with Moslem tombs, it is a place much resorted to by the. women ; it 
is much used also as a swim-pool by men and boys, in the early part 
of the season, when so full that they can run and tumble into it 
without danger of striking the bottom ; but it is generally exhausted 
before the winter rains set in. It is now entered by only one pair 
of steps — that in the south-west corner ; and has a contrivance in a 
small subterranean room beneath its lower side, or dam for regulat- 
ing its outflow of water. 

Birket Cotton Megara. — This cavity is situated on the exterior 
of the northern wall, about seventy yards north of Damascus Gate. 
It does not appear to have been originally designed for a pool, but 
has been made simply by closing the entrance to the great cave 
beneath Bezetha Hill, and running a wall across the deep cut through 
which the quarried rocks were once brought out of the cave. It 
derives its present supply of water almost entirely from the hill in 
the interior of the city, through a small hole cut in the wall ; but it 
was formerly brought, by a subterranean aqueduct, the remains of 
which are still visible, from a beautiful sheet of water that every 
rainy season collects in the Cave of Jeremiah. 

Birket el-Hijjeh — Jeremiah's Pool or Dungeon. — The double 
tank of water, situated immediately outside of the northern wall, in 
the valley that separates the main hill of Bezetha from the low hill 
east of it, is thus designated in the traditionary vocabulary of Jeru- 
salem. They have every appearance of ordinary tanks beneath houses 
of the better class ; but as they are favorably situated for receiving 



JERUSALEM — AS IT IS. 



541 



Various other pools. 

water, they have been rendered accessible in modern times by a 
flight of steps at the south-east corner. Water is generally to be 
found in the one that is still vaulted over, until midsummer ; but 
seems to be derived entirely from the -winter rains. There are many 
such, but generally in a state of disrepair, scattered around Jeru- 
salem ; particularly north of the city. This name, el-Hijjeh, is 
also applied to the pool at Stephen's Gate by some authors. It 
is evident, from the account given by Jeremiah himself (Jer. xxxvii. 
21, 38), that his dungeon could not have been situated anywhere in 
this quarter of the city, inasmuch as it was w T ithin the precincts of 
the King's House. 

Birket Hammam Sitte Miryam. — This pool can lay claim to no 
higher antiquity than the adjoining city wall, as it is evidently 
made to receive the rains that flow into the fosse formerly existing 
all the way up the city wall on the east : but is now so completely 
filled with rocks and rubbish as scarcely to be distinguishable ; 
though still permitting the rain-water to percolate below. It is 
situated a short distance north of St. Stephen's Gate, and its only 
design, apparently, was originally to supply the Turkish bath imme- 
diately within — which it generally does throughout the year : a flight 
of steps, however, in its corner towards Gethsemane seems to indi- 
cate that its water is sometimes used for other purposes. 

Hammam Tabareyeh — Bath of Tiberias. — The Baths of Tiberias 
are assigned a place on the south-west quarter of Zion, not far from 
the English Cemetery, by Mr. Williams. 

Lower Pool — Natatoria. — The depressed spot of ground between 
the points or promontories of Ophel and Zion, is the site of the 
" Shorn Skin Pool" of the Talmud, and the Natatoria of the Cru- 
saders. But although the lower wall is in a good state of preserva- 
tion, it holds no water — the cement having long since fallen off. 

There are several large reservoirs and tanks within a mile of the 
city, several of them very large and uncovered, being merely walled 
in, mainly with unwrought stones ; but others were originally natu- 
ral caves, merely enlarged and plastered, and having the superin- 



542 



CITY OP THE GREAT KING. 



Pools and baths. Impurity of the waters of Jerusalem. 

cumbent rock supported, in some instances, by large rough columns, 
all filled with rain-water, conducted into them by natural valleys or 
artificial trenches. Two or three of these are in the upper part of 
the Kedron Valley — on the plain of Rephaim, in the direction of 
Bethany — and one or two in Wady en-Nair. Vestiges of a dam 
may still be observed, lying across the valley north-west of Damascus 
Gate ; and about two hundred yards north-east of Stephen's Gate, the 
traveller may see a specimen of many other rock-hewn reservoirs in 
the neighborhood. 

Baths. — There are five or six fine bathing establishments in the 
city, and most of the better kinds of residences have private baths 
also. 

But, besides these public reservoirs and tanks, every 'private house 
has beneath it one or more cisterns, into which the water from the 
court and top of the house is conveyed through pipes, or vacuities 
in the walls, in sufficient quantity to serve all the purposes of the 
family — and, though teeming with animalculse, becomes very cool 
and pleasant on reaction and clarification. 

Specific Gravity of the Waters of Jerusalem, and Environs, the Jordan and Dead 
Sea — distilled water being 1000. 



Cistern-water from the Mission premises . . . . . . . . 1002£ 

From inner well of Flagellation Church 1002 

From Ain Hammam esh-Shefa 1004£ 

From Virgin's Fount 1003$ 

From En-rogel 1002$ 

From Jordan . . . . . . . . . . . . 1001 

From the Dead Sea . 1128 

Residuum yielded by Evaporation from Ebullition. 

128 oz. of water from Ain Hammam esh-Shefa 185 grains. 

128 " " Virgin's Fount 93 " 

128 " " Flagellation Well . . . . . . . 32 " 

128 " " Mission cistern 16 " 



It would appear, from the foregoing experiments, that according 



JERUSALEM — AS IT IS. 543 
Relative impurity of the waters of the city. 

to the table of densities, the purity of the waters of Jerusalem ranks 
in the following order : — 1st. Well of Flagellation Church ; 2d. 
En-rogel ; 3d. Cistern ; 4th. Virgin's Fount ; 5th. Ain Hammam 
esh-Shefa. 

But, according to the trial by ebullition, the order is somewhat 
different, as follows : — 1st. Cistern Water ; 2d. Flagellation Well : 
3d. Virgin's Fount ; 4th. Ain Hammam esh-Shefa. (En-rogel not 
tested.) 

The existence of carbonic acid gas, or other volatile matter, may 
account for the discrepancy of result as to the amount of impurity : 
but the experiments having been only once performed, it is quite 
probable that they are not free from error. It is evident, however, 
from the taste, as well as the density, and amount of deposit by 
ebullition, that of all the Jerusalem waters that of Ain Hammam 
esh-Shefa is the most impure. 



A1N LIFTA— NEPHTOAH. 



CHAPTER XIX. 



WATERS BEYOND THE IMMEDIATE ENVIRONS— BUT WITHIN SEVEN 
MILES OF THE CITY. 



Aln Llfta. — Ain Yalo is generally supposed to be that celebrated 
" fountain of waters" on the boundary between Judah and Benjamin 
called Nephtoah ; but it is very evident from Joshua's indication of 
the dividing line between the lots of these two tribes, that the present 
Ain Lifta is identical with the Nephtoah of the Scriptures. In 
describing the boundary of Judah, he tells us (xv. 9) that « the 
border went up by the Valley of the Son of Hinnom unto the south 
side of the Jebusite (the same is Jerusalem) and the border went up 
to the top of the mountain that lieth before the Valley of Hinnom 
westward, which is at the head of the Valley of the Giants north- 
ward ; and the border was drawn from the top of the hill unto the 
fountain of the waters of Nephtoah, and went out to the cities of 



545 



Lifta suggested as the Nephtoah of Scripture. 

Mount Ephron ; and the border was drawn to Baalah, which is 
Kirjath-jearim" — the present village of Abu Ghosh. 

In describing the boundary line of Benjamin, where it co-extends 
with that of Judah, he reverses the direction and informs us (xviii. 
15) that "the south quarter was from the end of Kirjath-jearim, 
and the border went out on the west, and went out to (at) the well 
of waters of Nephtoah ; and the border came down to the end of 
the mountain that lieth before the Valley of the Son of Hinnom, 
and which is in the Valley of the Giants on the north, and de- 
scended to the Valley of Hinnom to the side of Jebusi on the 
south, and descended to En-rogel." Now it will readily be per- 
ceived on tracing this dividing line upon a correct map, that while 
a line passing from the head of the Valley of Ben Hinnom or 
Rephaim, to Baalah by Ain Yalo, would form a right angle, and that 
too without following any natural landmarks, and without any appa- 
rent reason, a line passing through Lifta would not only be very 
nearly straight, but would pursue a course indicated by nature. An 
argument in favor of this conclusion is also drawn from the name 
of this fountain — for while Yalo has no analogy whatever to Neph- 
toah, the transition from Nephtoah to Lifta is very easy and natural 
in the mouth of an Arab — I being frequently substituted for n 9 and 
the difference in termination being perfectly admissible — and espe- 
cially if considered as a contraction. Such instances are of con- 
stant occurrence throughout Palestine. 

This bold fountain is beautifully situated a short distance above 
the village of Lifta, not far from the head of the valley that runs 
into Wady beit-Hanina, and about two and a half miles north-west 
of Jerusalem. It pours forth from a spout into a stone trough at 
the upper end of a large sunken court, just below which there are 
two or three small receptacles for the water, and further down one 
or two more, used now, as of old, to irrigate the rich gardens below. 
What a delightful "gathering-place" this famous landmark must 
have been for the children of Judah and Benjamin to enjoy them- 
selves beneath the cool shade of those delightful groves of orange, 
35 



546 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



A scene at Ain Lifta. 

lemon, apricot, pear, and pomegranate trees ! This enchanting spot 
is now within the limits of the sheikhdom of Abu Ghosh the 
renowned freebooter, so much dreaded by travellers : and it was 
just here we once found ourselves in rather an unpleasant predica- 
ment. Some of the mission family had ridden out to this place one 
afternoon, for the first time after a long attack of Syrian fever : 
and just as we were taking a sketch of the fountain, and a pictur- 
esque group of women with their water jars and goat-skin bottles, 
a number of well mounted and fully armed Fellahin were seen to 
descend the sides of the valley in rapid succession, and secure their 
horses to a limb, a craggy rock, or the ground by a spear or iron 
spike which they always carry. The number soon increased to 
many scores, and the cry was "still they come," horse, foot, dra- 
goon, donkeys, camels, and all, until they amounted to hun- 
dreds, It immediately became painfully evident that wo were 
regarded as intruders if not spies, and were not only closely watched 
but somewhat "held in durance vile," notwithstanding they knew 
that I was a hakeem — for the person of a physician is regarded as 
sacred amongst Arabs. Soon, however, a dignitary of stern mien 
approached the fountain, and took his seat beneath an old olive- 
tree on d raised platform of masonry a few yards distant ; and forth- 
with order and decorum prevailed — all marching up in the most 
respectful manner to kiss his hand and bow at his feet. All of our 
inquiries as to the object of this gathering being evasively answered, 
we could obtain no clue to this strange procedure until a handsomely 
equipped deputation of Damascenes made their appearance, and a 
regular Arab council commenced its palaver. We had heard that 
the Pasha of Damascus was about to send an embassage to Leham 
and Abu Ghosh, two rival chiefs who had been at war with each 
other for some months ; and though we did not dream that we were 
in the presence of such a terrible Arab chieftain as Abu Ghosh, 
yet on seeing such an imposing military display down in this wild 
glen, we could but come to the conclusion that it was about time to 
be off : and accordingly we hastened our departure — leaving the 



JERUSALEM — AS IT IS. 



547 



Ain Yalo. Ain Aleek. Air. Harmiyeh. 

sketch, like the tale of « Hudibras, the bear and fiddle — commenced — 
but broke off in the middle." One of the soldiers called at our 
premises in the city early next day to admonish us of our danger, 
and beg us, for " Ullah's" sake, not to venture beyond the walls any 
more during the continuance of the war — a piece of advice which, 
however well meant and well received, was entirely unnecessary, as 
it had now become known that the forces of Abu Ghosh had rendez- 
voused at Lifta, for the purpose of having a pitched battle with 
those of Leham the next day on the old battle-ground of the Philis- 
tines — the plain of Rephaiui : and for several months the most 
daring robberies and atrocious murders were committed with entire 
impunity, until at last the Pasha of Jerusalem, taking the field in 
person, and bringing his cannon to bear effectually on some of their 
villages, and actually pulling down one or two of them, succeeded 
in bringing the belligerents to terms. 

Ain Yalo is situated about four miles south-west of Jerusalem in 
Wady el-Werd, or Valley of Roses — several plantations of which 
are there cultivated, for the purpose of making rose-water. On the 
summit of a hill in the rear of the spring, the traveller from the 
" Old Dominion," in the New World, may meet with some old 
acquaintances, much in request at Jerusalem during the solemnities 
of the Feast of Tabernacles and Palm Sunday — veritable Virginia 
old field pines ! This fountain is rather weak ; though irrigating 
several gardens, and supplying the ci£y with fifty or one hundred 
donkey loads of water daily, throughout the summer. A pool 
twenty feet square, entered by a pair of steps at one corner, 
receives the surplus water, which serves both for bathing and irri- 
gation. It is situated a short way up the declivity, on the south- 
east or left hand side descending the valley. 

Ain Aleek is situated in a valley that enters this (Wady el-Werd) 
nearly a mile below, from the north ; and just below the entrance of 
this valley into el-Werd, is another copious spring, called Ain Han- 
niyeh (St. Philip's Fountain). It gushes profusely from a beauti- 
ful piece of fountain architecture, on the declivity of the hill, a dozen 



548 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



St. Philip's Fountain. 

or two yards to the left of the luxuriant gardens in the rich flats of 
the valley below. It is first received into a small semicircular basin, 
six or eight feet in diameter, and, after flowing about twenty yards, 
falls into a rectangular basin, twenty-five feet in breadth and forty- 
one and a half in length, executed almost entirely in the living 
rock, and supplied, as usual, with a broad flight of steps at one 
corner. Some of our party were anxious to refresh themselves with 
a bath in this reservoir ; but the 44 faithful" were so much scandal- 
ized at such an outrageous desecration of the place by the "infidels," 
that it became necessary to forego that pleasure, tantalizing as it 
was. Just in front of the fountain stands a section of a coarse 
marble pillar, about three feet in diameter ; and higher up the hill 
are to be seen some smaller columns entire — indicating that there 
was once here either a church or a village of some importance. 

Unlike the fountain works at Jerusalem, which are purely Sara- 
cenic, this is evidently Corinthian — the two piers terminating the 
semicircle being crowned with beautiful Corinthian capitals : and 
while, from general similarity of style, compared with the Golden 
Gate and other supposed Hadrianic structures, we might well refer 
it to the age of Hadrian, they probably date back no farther than 
the visit of tfie Empress Helena, to whom I am inclined to ascribe 
this structure, on account of the tradition that signalizes this water. 
For the Latins will have it that this is the 44 certain water" at which 
Philip baptized Queen Candace's treasurer. But it must be con- 
fessed that Wady el-Werd is at present, and always must have been 
rather 44 a hard road to travel" in a 44 chariot." Indeed the road 
to Jordan, proverbially difficult as it is regarded, is yet a graduated 
highway, compared with the neck-breaking pathway along the sides 
and bottom of this narrow defile. Nor can this course be said, 
with any propriety, to be 44 toward the south" — 44 the way that 
goeth down to Gaza, which is desert;" for it is decidedly the most 
northern route to Gaza, if indeed there ever was any kind of road 
leading this way to that city. Certain it is that there are two roads 
south of it leading to Gaza, through a much more accessible tract 



JERUSALEM — AS IT IS. 549 
Ain Betir. Waters of Gibeon. 

of country — that passing through Eleutheropolis being much more 
direct and superior in every respect. 

Rather more than a mile lower down this valley, and on the same 
side of it, is Ain Betir, bearing also north-west from the city. It 
is an exceedingly bold fountain, and bursts out from the rock near 
the top of a high ridge, supposed, by Mr. Williams, with high pro- 
bability, to be one of the mountains of Bethir, of which he considers 
the present name to be an Arabic corruption. The water is con- 
ducted a considerable distance in stone troughs, and then falls into a 
fine large pool, whence it is distributed in hundreds of rills through- 
out extensive falling gardens ; a large surplus portion also rushing 
impetuously down the horse pathway. To the wearied traveller this 
is truly an enchanting spot — a garden of delights ! But the inhabit- 
ants of the village are reputed the most villanous set of Arabs in all 
Mussulmandom : and so I esteemed them on first entering the town. 
But, after I had prescribed for a few patients, I was treated with 
marked consideration ; and when I subsequently visited the place, 
in company with Drs. Robinson and Smith, although they had 
brought themselves to the conclusion that we were making a survey 
of the country, preparatory to its re-occupation by the Franks, yet 
they offered no insult or molestation whatever. This picturesque 
spot is regarded by many traditionists as the scene of the Ethiopian 
grandee's baptism : but the considerations that deprive Hanniyeh 
of that distinction, apply here with still greater force. 

The " Great Waters of Gibeon," referred to by the prophet 
(Jer. xli. 12), are no more to be seen : the curse under which " whole 
Palestina groaneth and travaileth in pain together until now," hav- 
ing long since dried them up. But near the eastern base of the hill 
there is quite a capacious cavern, in which are both a fountain and 
reservoir of water that formerly supplied a pool, in a field about fifty 
yards below it, thirty-three feet wide and fifty-one long. This being 
supplied with living water was, perhaps, always a place of resort ; 
and may well have been the pool Helkath-hazzurim, where " Joab, 
the son of Zeruiah, and the servants of David, went out and met 



550 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Waters of Neby Mispeh. 

together : and they sat down, the one on the one side of the pool 
and the other on the other side of the pool ; and Abner said unto 
Joab, Let the young men now arise and play before us. And Joab 
said, Let them arise. Then there arose and went over by number 
twelve of Benjamin which pertained to Ish-bosheth the son of Saul, 
and twelve of the servants of David, and they caught every one his 
fellow by the head, and thrust his sword in his fellow's side ; so they 
fell down together, wherefore that place was called Helkath-hazzu- 
rim — the field of strong men." (2 Sam. ii. 13.) Considerably 
farther south, there is another pool, of much smaller dimensions, 
however ; and the dribbling spring that supplies it is barely peren- 
nial. Dr. Robinson mentions a pool one hundred and twenty feet 
long and one hundred wide ; but this, no doubt, derived its supply 
of water only from the rains. 

At Neby Samwil, the Mispeh of the Scriptures, there are more 
than half a dozen small fountains and receptacles of water : the 
lowest of these is fifty-seven feet in length and thirty in breadth, 
massively constructed on one side with rebated stones — the upper 
side being the native rock, merely scarped down. 

They are to be found on both sides of the mountain ; and are 
turned to very good account by irrigating some very productive 
gardens. A few of them are situated quite near the top of the 
mountain ; and tradition states that their waters were once conducted 
to Jerusalem. I have not succeeded, however, in finding such an 
aqueduct ; and the boldest spring is certainly 
too low for that purpose. But all these waters 
may easily have been reservoired quite near 
the city. 

The accompanying ground plan will convey 
a correct idea of a small basin of water, situated 
beneath and within a large projecting rock, 
near the top of the mount, east of the present 
subterranean fountain and mosk, which appears to be a metamorphosed 
pool at neby samwil. conven t f t h e Crusaders. The old chroni- 




JERUSALEM — AS I T I S. 551 

Other fountains, &c. 

clers speak of a "Fountain of St. Samuel." The} 7 locate it, how- 
ever, in another quarter ; and it is probably that situated near the 
mosk just beyond the ridge. Can this excavation have been a Jew- 
ish bath? Or was it designed as a baptistery by the Empress Helena, 
either for a church once erected over it, or for the one now in ruins, 
considerably south of it ?* 

A mile or two south-west of Neby Samwil, and four or five north- 
west of Jerusalem, is Ain Kirbet Losa. And a mile farther south, 
at the junction of the Valley of Kirbet Losa with Wady Beit Ha- 
nina, are several fountains and pools, near the foundations of an 
old city, called Beit Tulmeh. Half a mile farther down Wadi 
Beit-Hanina is quite a bold fountain near some old Jewish ruins, 
and an Arab village called Kuloxieh — a little above the point at 
which the road from Jerusalem to Jaffa crosses the valley over a 
stone bridge. A few hundred yards up the road to Kastul the 
traveller may slake his thirst at a very weak fountain on the way- 
side, called Ain Arsafear ; not far from which, over on the north, 
is another, called AiN Adjous. In this neighborhood are also Ain 
Ras Kaballi, on the west, and on the south, Ain Sataf, Ain 
Habis, Ain Kaudak, Ain Arawas, and Ain Karim. The last 
of which is rather more than four miles due west from Jerusalem, 
and, according to the tradition of the Greeks, who here have a fine 
church and convent, is the birthplace of the great forerunner, John 
the Baptist. 

« The Fountain Sealed." — A few hundred yards up the shallow 
valley, above the old Saracenic castle at the head of Solomon's 

* This singular structure may well remind prevailing in Italy; and especially after the 

us of the elegant octagonal baptistery in the style of that great model church at Rome so 

Basilica of St. John Lateran, at Rome, built highly honoured and regarded by her impe- 

by Constantine for his own baptism; and in rial son — " Omnium urbis et orbis Ecclesiarum 

which proselyted Jews and Infidels are to Mater et Caput," as it was designated. Web- 

this day ceremoniously baptized the Saturday ster remarks that, " primitively, baptisteries 

before every Easter. At all events, it is very were in buildings separate from the church ; 

natural to suppose that the Empress would but in the sixth century they were taken into 

model all the ecclesiastical structures she the church-porch, and afterward into the 

built in Palestine very much after the fashion church itself." 



552 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



" Fountain Sealed." 



Haud Kybrian, &c. 



Pools, the traveller may discover, amongst the luxuriant growth of 
weeds and grass, a large round rock, which he will find, on inspec- 
tion, to close the mouth of a shaft of masonry, leading to a subter- 
ranean, rock-hewn room, containing a fountain. This, tradition 
confidently asserts, is the celebrated fountain to which the Wise Man 
compares his spouse — " A spring shut up, a fountain sealed." (Cant, 
iv. 12.) Nor can the tradition be disproved. The united strength 
of many men is required to unseal the entrance. The accompanying 
engraving gives a correct view of this interesting font-room, which, in 
all probability, was constructed by Solomon — being the main source 
from which the pools derive their supply. (See next article.) 




" THE FOUNTAIN SEALED 



Besides the Fountain Sealed, and the other fountains at el-Burak, 
whose waters flow to Jerusalem through the present Pottery Aque- 
duct, there are several others in that vicinity. Ain Dier el-Benat, 
Ain Haud Kybrian (Trough of Cyprian), Ain Ahmed, several 



JERUSALEM — AS IT IS. 553 

Ain Artos. Ain el-Hoarth, &c. 

small unnamed springs, and the bold fountain of Wady Artas or 
Ortos, the waters of "which, issuing from its strong reservoir into an 
aqueduct, were formerly conducted into a large pool called Birket 
es-Sultan (or Royal Reservoir), and a smaller one, el-Marmoodieh, 
the bath-house or baptistery at the base of Herodium or Frank 
Mountain — the Beth-haccerem of Scripture, called by the Arabs 
Jebl Fureidis or Mount Paradise, on account of the splendid 
gardens once irrigated from these pools. The monks strenuously 
Contend that "Artas" or "Ortos" is a corruption of the Latin 
« Hortus" and that this valley is no other than the " Hortus 
clausus" or " Garden enclosed" of Canticles, (iv. 12.) 

If the water for which David so ardently longed, saying, " Oh that 
one would give me drink of the water of the well of Bethlehem that 
is at the gate !" was living water, as it most assuredly must have been, 
it has long since disappeared, as so many others have done elsewhere 
— there being no fresh water there now, except the current passing 
through the aqueduct from Solomon's Pools to Jerusalem. But 
between Bethlehem and Jerusalem there are several fountains ; 
only one of which, however, is perennial — that near Surbahet 
village — Ain Surbahet. 

About two and a half miles south-east of Jerusalem, on the road 
to Jericho, is Ain el-Hoarth, or the Fountain of the Apostles, 
which, tradition says, they never passed without tarrying.* A thin 
stream issues from a rather inferior piece of fountain architecture, 
near an old, dilapidated khan : and, after passing through a large 
stone trough into a pool five or six yards square, all not thus retained 
is immediately absorbed by the thirsty earth. There are several 
other places in this vicinity where the water merely oozes out in 
small quantities — both above and below the "Apostle's Fount." 
This is probably en-Shems or es-Shemish, mentioned Josh, xviii. 17. 

No remains of the pools mentioned by the rabbis are now to be 



*" And indeed it is a thing very probable, by the roadside, and very inviting to the 
and no more I believe than is done by all thirsty passenger" — pays Maundrel. 
that travel this way, the fountain being close 



554 CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 

Solomon's Pools. 

found immediately at Bethany ; but there are several very large 
ones a few hundred yards east of the isthmus by which Bethany 
Mount is connected with the main ridge of Olivet. 




el-burak — Solomon's pools. 



Solomon's Pools and Aqueduct— El-Burak. — The only living 
water with which the Haram es-Sheriff seems now to be supplied, is 
derived from three pools thus denominated by the Franks, but by 
the Arabs called merely " El-Burak" — The Pools. They are distant 
from Jerusalem about eight miles by the usual road, and are situated 
near the head of a long valley, called Wady Urtas, supposed to be 
the site of ancient Etham. This is rather far for Etham, according 
to the usual estimate of the furlong or stadium ; for Josephus states 
it to be sixty furlongs from the city, but if he alluded to that por- 
tion of the valley near Bethlehem, where its largest expansion occurs, 
and where it is most probable that the royal pleasure gardens, 
orchards, and parks would be located for the benefit of irrigation, the 
confines of it might there be reached within the specified distance — 
seven and a half miles. The upper pool, which is quite near a large 
quadrangular Saracenic fortress in a tolerable state of preservation, 



JERUSALEM — AS IT IS. 555 

Dimensions of Pools. 

derives its supply of water solely from a fountain about two hun- 
dred yards above it. This fountain is about thirty feet below the 
surface of the ground, accessible only through a rude, roughly 
walled declivitous passage. But the illustration given under the last 
article imparts to the reader a better idea of this renowned fountain- 
head of Jerusalem waters than the most minute written description. 
In order to keep it permanently sealed, the pastoral Arabs that graze 
their flocks hereabouts in great numbers, close its conical mouth so 
effectually with a large round stone that it requires powerful 
mechanical force to remove it. Hence it was effectually sealed 
during the whole period of my sojourn in Palestine, until a short 
time before my return, when I had the good fortune to gain admit- 
tance and make a full exploration of it. The water, being collected 
into a central receptacle from various surrounding fissures, is con- 
ducted far beneath the surface of the ground to the upper pool, just 
before entering which it is again accessible by descending a rude stair- 
way of rocks. I can but concur in opinion with the monks that 
this is the very fountain that the " king that was preacher in Jeru- 
salem" had in mind when he compares his spouse to "a spring 
shut up, a fountain sealed," in his beautiful Song. (Cant. iv. 12.) 
One hundred and sixty feet below this pool — the shortest distance, 
allowing the bottom of the upper pool to be rather higher than the 
top of the next — we find the second or middle pool : and similarly 
situated in respect to this is another, the third and lower one, at a 
distance of two hundred and forty-eight feet. They are not very 
symmetrically situated or regularly made — adaptation to the local 
features of the valley at the highest available level being evidently 
the governing feature in their construction. Their respective dimen- 
sions are as follows : — 

Upper Pool — length 380 feet ; breadth at the upper end 229 feet, 
at the lower 236 ; greatest depth 25 feet. 

Middle Pool— length 423 feet ; breadth at upper end 160 feet, 
at lower 250 ; greatest depth 39 feet. 



556 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING 



Description of Pools. 

Lower Pool — length 582 feet ; breadth at upper end 148 feet, 
at lower 207 ; greatest depth 50 feet. 

The walls are built of large hewed stones, well lined with cement, 
as is also the bottom, which is very narrow in the middle, but 
becomes wider and wider — the different strata of rock forming suc- 
cessive terraces — not horizontal, but slightly inclined longitudinally, 
so that the water on each plateau differs materially in depth. More 
delightful swim-pools than these, heart could not desire : and that 
they were formerly much used as such, is rendered highly probable 
by the well-arranged flights of steps descending into them. The 
lower one, however, at the present day, is never entirely filled, even 
at the close of the rainy season ; and the middle one frequently 
becomes nearly exhausted before the expiration of the dry season ; 
but the upper one is generally well filled. The water brought from 
the "fountain sealed" may either be turned into the pools or con- 
ducted by the rapidly descending aqueduct alongside of it. There 
must of necessity be an educt as well as an induct connected with 
each pool for regulating its supply of water, though the exact 
modus operandi is not observable. The lower pool receives an addi- 
tional supply, at least in winter, from two superficial channels run- 
ning around the hill on the south ; and the main aqueduct having 
passed a short distance below the pools, receives a considerable 
accession from another conduit coming from the south ; and having 
crossed the valley just below the lowermost pool, enters the aque- 
duct some yards farther down, having itself received two small tribu- 
taries, the one from beneath the pool, and the other from a point 
certainly lower than the top of the pool, and probably lower than 
its bottom, which unite in a room under the lower wall and dam 
of the pool. 

The style of architecture in this room very closely resembles that 
of the "fountain sealed." The disproportionate length of the rocks 
in the vaults is a peculiarity that I have observed only in these two 
rooms. The atmosphere being subject to but little variation in 
humidity or temperature in these deep subterranean partially closed 



JERUSALEM— AS IT IS. 557 

Course of aqueduct. 

recesses, the vaults as well as the arches (with their keystones too) 
are found in admirable state of preservation : — a very significant 
fact in deciding the much mooted question as to the antiquity of the 
arch — for no one questions the high antiquity of these great water- 
works. The aqueduct is made almost exclusively of suitably shaped 
cylinders of red pottery, twelve or fifteen inches long and eight or 
ten in diameter, cemented into each other and buried usually a foot 
or two in the ground ; but having occasional watering-places of stone 
with open mouths through which the water can be easily obtained. 
About one mile below the pools the aqueduct passes just above the 
ruins of the town of Artas, where a few enterprising Americans 
settled, and for a time succeeded in the culture of the most valuable 
American esculents — vegetables, fruits, grains, &c ; but were soon 
compelled to desist on account of the most virulent opposition on 
the part of those who should have been their most cordial co-opera- 
tors. A powerful fountain bursts forth from the side of the hill 
just below the ruined village, and being received into a reservoir, is 
now appropriated to the irrigation of the highly cultivated gardens 
in that lovely vale ; but was formerly carried to Herodium or Frank 
Mountain for the purpose of adorning and watering the Paradise of 
Herod the Great, hence called by the Arabs to this day Jebl 
Furidis — an Arabic corruption of that term, as Artas is also of the 
name assigned it by the monks, and not altogether unwarrantably 
" Hortus clausus" — from the simile used by the Wise Man, "a 
garden enclosed is my sister, my spouse : a spring shut up, a fountain 
sealed." The aqueduct passes on hence to Jerusalem, reposing on 
the slopes of the hills, slightly descending, and pursuing the tortuous 
course laid down on the " Vicinity Map" twelve and a quarter miles ; 
but not as sinuous as represented by travellers — for instead of 
passing around Bethlehem, as is generally maintained, it goes 
directly through the centre of the town after reaching "the well;" 
and also tunnels another hill about a mile and a half from the city 
Having reached the Valley of Hinnom, it passes around the lower 
pool of that valley, about seventy-five yards above it, on nine or ten 



558 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Enon. Wady Farah. 

arches, now nearly concealed by accumulated earth ; but beforo 
doing so sends off a short branch to the troughs of a monumental 
fountain situated midway the lower side of the " Great Pool." 
According to the deciphering and translation of the late lamented 
Dr. Schultz, so long the able representative of the Prussian govern- 
ment at the Holy City, the inscription on this fountain reads as 
follows : " In the name of the most merciful God, — our lord the 
Sultan El-Melik en-Nassir the Lord of the Faith and of the faithful, 
Mohammed son of the Sultan el-Melik el-Mansur i£elaun, ordered 
this blessed aqueduct to be built." (A. D. 1294—1340.) After 
coursing around Mount Zion at the highest attainable level, it passes 
through the city wall at the spot indicated on the map, and having 
penetrated by a short tunnel the solid rock on which the premises 
of the American Christian Mission are built, it reaches Temple 
street, down which it turns at right angles and enters the Haram 
esh-Sherif. 

This is perhaps the " canal which rushed forth in a copious stream 
introduced from a distance," of which Felix Fabri speaks in 1480. 
Or was the aqueduct of Pontius Pilate then remaining ? Scarcely. 

The water-works of el-Burak are doubtless the pools to which 
the "Preacher" alludes in the 2d Chapter of his Ecclesiastes : " I 
made me pools of water, to water therewith the wood that bringeth 
forth the trees," — probably not only at Etham, but all the way 
along thence to his magnificent capital. 

Enon — jJEnon — Awav — Awov e.yyvs tov SaXft^t — Salim — Foxes or 
Paths — Aiyun or Ainyun — Wady Farah — Fountains of the Valley 
of Delight. — Of all £ the fountains in the neighborhood of Jerusalem, 
the most copious and interesting by far are those that burst forth 
within a short distance of each other in Wady Farah, about six 
miles north-east of the city. The following extracts from " The 
History of the Jerusalem Mission," though somewhat extended, 
will not be found too detailed, it is hoped, for a spot to which so 
much interest attaches : — 



JERUSALEM — AS IT IS. 559 



Wady Farah. 




* * * "Finding it impossible to procure, in the immediate environs of the city, a suita- 
ble place for the proposed asylum, on account of the high price demanded for land, I have 
extended my researches a little farther than heretofore, and have at last found a very eligi- 
ble place about six miles from the ciiy, which is ' merie' — a term used to designate the pub- 
lic domain or property of the Sultan ; and I have accordingly •written to our highly esteemed 
minister at Constantinople, to ascertain upon what terms it can be obtained. I have every 
reason to believe that the sum demanded will not exceed that to which I am limited by the 
Board; and as it is a very interesting spot, entirely unknown to Christendom, and is sur- 
rounded by places of stirring interest, I will give you a brief account of my visit there. 
Crossing Mount Olivet near the Church of Ascension, and taking the road down Wady 
Ruwaby, fifty minutes' walk brought us to the ruins of Al Kuby Sufre ; and turning 
abruptly to the left, after crossing a few inconsiderable hills, we found ourselves opposite 
the venerated Irkhan Ibrahim (Cave of Abraham), on the top of a commanding hill, where, 
according to Arab tradition, the old patriarch watched his flocks as they grazed in the 
neighboring valleys and plains, more than three thousand seven hundred years ago — just as 
many groups of them were doing as we passed along; and in half an hour more we were on 
the verge of a great valley within a few hundred yards of Wady Farah, the object of our 
visit. But having heard of a wonderful monster fountain a mile or two below, near the 



500 CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Wady Farah. Mysterious Zemzam. 

junction of this wady with Wady Fuwah, we determined to visit this mysterious Zemzam 
before descending the valley of Farah. Our Moslem guide informed us, that though it 
burst forth from the earth as copious as a river, yet he could stop at command the rushing 
flood, merely by chanting a certain formula of prayer, the chorus and burden of which 
was — 'the colored man whipped the white man;' and, what to our occidental ears was 
equally marvelous, could call the ' spirits from the vasty deep,' and again cause the pent-up 
torrent to rush off down the valley, by reversing his declaration, and making ' the white 
man whip the colored man.' Arrived at the spot, we found that, though not exactly realizing 
the American idea of a river, it was certainly a most copious ' fountain and depth springing 
out of the valley,' capable of driving several mills as it gushes forth from the earth ; and 
although we were not at all anxious to see such a noble spring suppressed, yet he proceeded 
at once to redeem his promise, as if unwilling that his professed character as a thaumatur- 
gist should be doubted a moment longer. Imagine, if you can, what astonishment filled our 
minds, when, despite our disbelief in the miraculous pretensions of this follower of the 
'great prophet' and apostle of Islam, the water actually began to disappear; and in a few 
minutes not a single drop escaped from the yawning fissure. It had entirely subsided and 
retired within the earth. In order apparently that we might be the more fully convinced 
of his miraculous powers, he inquired, after a minute or two, if we did not wish to see him 
cause the water to flow again ? to which, of course, we responded in the affirmative ; and 
forthwith this rival of Canute, Xerxes, and Moses commenced his lugubrious incantation, 
and soon, exultingly calling attention to the gurgling sound below, had the satisfaction of 
seeing the water burst forth furiously from its apparent imprisonment. In order to remove 
from our minds the least shadow of doubt, he again subjected the obedient waters to his 
magic influence. And as we still lingered at the fountain, he was about to renew his con- 
jurations ; but I thought it was now time to show this tricking son of Ishmael that ' Saul was 
also among the prophets ;' and, by way of making my ' rod swallow up the rod of this 
modern magician,' told him I would neither sing nor pray about the white and colored 
men fighting, nor wave a hand or wand over the water as he did, but would even walk out 
of sight, and yet make it appear and disappear at my bidding ; for I noticed that it 
(lowed about six minutes, ebbed six, and was quiescent about three ; and the idea occurred 
to me at once, that the water from the fountains above, which he had told me disappeared 
after flowing about a mile, was received into a subterranean reservoir, which emptied itself 
every twelve or fifteen minutes by a kind of natural syphon. Anxious still to maintain his 
pretensions to familiar intercourse with infernal aquatic spirits, he defied me to do so at first; 
but, seeing me pull out my watch and mark the moment of the water's subsidence, he dis- 
covered he could gull us no longer, and reluctantly confessed the trick he had been attempt- 
ting to palm on us. 

" Returning by a circuitous route to the place whence we had started, from the brow at 
Wady Farah, we descended with some difficulty into that ' Valley of Delight' — for such is 
the literal signification of its name — and truly I have seen nothing so delightful in the way 
of natural scenery, nor inviting in point of resources, &c, in all Palestine. Ascending its 
bold stream from this point, we passed some half-dozen expansions of the stream, constitut- 
ing the most beautiful natural natatoria I have ever seen ; the water, rivalling the atmos- 
phere itself in transparency, of depths varying from a few inches to a fathom and more, 
shaded on one or both sides by umbrageous fig-trees, and sometimes contained in naturally- 



JERUSALEM — AS IT IS. 



561 



Wady Farah. Arabs and crabs. 

excavated basins of red mottled marble — an occasional variegation of the common limestone 
of the country. These pools are supplied by some half-dozen springs of the purest and 
coldest water, bursting from rocky crevices at various intervals. Verily, thought I, we have 
stumbled upon Enon!* 'Many fountains/ I believe, is what Professor Robinson, the great 
Biblical geographer and lexicographer, prefers rendering the < polla hudat.a' of Enon ; and 
here are not only many fountains, but literally 1 much water' — thus accommodating each 
translation. Portions of aqueducts, both of pottery and stone, and in a tolerable state of 
preservation, too, in many places, are still found remaining on each side of the valley, indi- 
cating the extent to which the valley was at one time irrigated; and richer land I have 
never seen than is much of this charming valley; capable, too, of being made yet richer by 
the guano of goats, many large mounds of which — the accumulation of long ages — are here 
found. Several herds of cattle were voraciously feeding on the rich herbage near tho 
stream; and thousands of sheep and goats were seen approaching the stream, or 'resting at 
noonday' in the shadow of the great rock composing the overhanging cliff here and there. 
The cooing dove and the ' kharking'f raven are here seen in strange affinity. And many 
birds of many kinds — from the chirping little sparrow to the immense condor-looking vul- 
ture — were sweetly carolling, or swiftly flitting across the valley, or securely reposing upon 
its lofty cliffs; and the most delicious perfume pervaded many spots in this beautiful little 
Eden. Rank grasses, luxuriant reeds, tall weeds, and shrubbery and trees of various kinds, 
entirely conceal the stream from view in many places ; forming around its pebbly little 
pools just such shady and picturesque alcoves and bowers as classic poets picture out for the 
haunts of their naiads, sylphs, and fairies. But instead of nymphs and sylphs, a very wizard- 
like old Arab was wading about, gathering crabs — and snails also, which here grow on weeds 
and shrubs as thick as blackberries — for the dignitaries of the Greek convent at Jerusalem. 
Half a dozen young Arab women from a neighboring encampment were also wading about 
in one of the expansions of water, filling their goat-skin bottles less gracefully than dis- 
gracefully; their solitary garment — if garment it could be called — being well tucked up by 
the girdle! One of our party, on coming up from one of these secluded bathing-places, 
found himself minus every particle of his clothing — a liberal-minded son of the desert hav- 
ing arrayed himself in them, apparently in sport : and, professing to humor the joke as best 
we could, succeeded after a while — and a long while, too, it seemed — in getting him dis- 
robed, or rather disrohbed of them. By-the-bye, whence came the fishes that were sporting 
about in these pellucid little ponds elevated at least two thousand feet above the Jordan ? 
& per 8altum ascent is entirely out of the question. Have they made their escape from the 
muddy waters of the Jordan, and wended the uneven tenor of their way through subter- 
ranean channels to this great height? or are they the remains of an old piscatory colony 
planted here by the old Canaanitish, Jewish, Roman, Persian, or crusading residents of this 
valley ? Certainly not by rude improvident Turks or Arabs. This being the only accessible 
water for many miles, herds of gazelles that graze on the neighboring hillsides resort here 
in great numbers ; and the dense forests of cane-brakes are the favorite resort of wild boars, 
which abound below — hog-hating Islamism to the contrary notwithstanding ! 



* See page 564. 

f This bird is very fond of calling its own name in Arabic — for ever crying, as it fliei 
« khark ! khark ! khark !" 
36 



o62 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Sennacherib's approach to Jerusalem. 

"Higher up, the valley becomes very narrow, and the rocky precipices tower to a sub- 
lime height, and -at one point seem to have been connected by an airy bridge. In the per- 
pendicular faces of these towering walls are found many caves of great extent; and what 
we at first took for sepulchral excavations, were found, on further examination, to have served 
as habitations for the living, furnished with receptacles for water, and other conveniences ; 
but especially well devised for defence. But though the eremite tenants of these rock- 
tenements have long since been swept off by the bloodthirsty sons of Ishmael, whose hands 
are against every man, and every man's hand against them, yet some kind of 'folks' still 
dwell high up in the rocky cliffs. Now 'the conies are bat a feeble folk, yet make they 
their houses in the rocks/ and maintain possession there in great force. A short distance 
below the upper fountain were very evident remains of a sugar or oil mill ; and scattered 
about were also tessara, fragments of pillars, and other indications of ancient buildings. 
We also found several Roman coins. But what impressed me more than anything else that 
I saw, was a large, somewhat regular, though altogether natural hemispherical — or rather 
amphitheatrical — excavation in the cliff, with its overhanging dome of dizzy height — a kind 
of natural clerestory or void — like that over the Oracle of the Temple, unfathomable by the 
sight. Oh, what a devotion-inspiring cathedral for the worship of that exalted Being that 
'dwelleth not in temples made with hands,' and who has made this gigantic temple himself, 
with the exception of the semicircular ranges of seats that have probably been chiselled 
out by the hands of the Crusaders ! 

"Ascending a neighboring hill, we had a most commanding view of Mount Olivet, the 
hill country and wilderness of Judea, the land of Moab, the Dead Sea, the Arabah or Jor- 
dan region, Michmash, Rimmon, Geba, Ramah, Gibeah, and other interesting localities j 
and then, after having spent a most delightful day, we reluctantly left this sweet retreat, 
and reached our quarters in an hour and a half, passing through Anathoth, near to which 
lay the field of Jeremiah; where we entered upon the devastating track of the haughty 
Assj-rian monarch advancing to the investment of the Holy City. And crossing Mount 
Olivet near Nob, where there is a commanding stand-point in full view of all the stations 
mentioned in the glowing description of the prophet (Isaiah x. 28-32), could but greatly 
enjoy it. 

"Tie is come to Aiath, he is passed to Migron 
At Michmash he hath laid up his carriages: 
They are gone over the passage : 
They have taken up their lodging at Geba; 
Ramah is afraid ; 
Gibeah of Saul is fled. 
Lift up thy voice, daughter of Gallim ! 
Cause it to be heard unto Laish, 
poor Anathoth ! 
Madmenah is removed; 

The inhabitants of Gebim gather themselves to flee. 
As yet shall he remain at Nob that day : 

He shall shake his hand against the mount of the daughter of Zion, 
The hill of Jerusalem." 



JERUSALEM — AS IT IS. 563 
Wady Seleim. Bahurim. 

The valley upon which we entered on crossing Mount Olivet 
(Wad j Ruwaby), I afterwards identified as a locality' of some inte- 
rest. It runs a nearly straight course from Mount Olivet for three 
miles, directly towards Jordan, and offers the nearest, though not 
the best route to it. The pathway is on the right hand (descending), 
on which side the slope is quite gentle, but on the opposite side is 
very precipitous, and much of it entirely inaccessible. Wady Khark 
enters it from the north near its head, not far from a small wely 
of an Arab Santon, just below which are a few broken columns and 
vestiges of a former city ; and at its lower end it unites with another 
valley (from the west) called Wady Seleim, where there are also ruins 
of a city called Kirbet al-Kubr Suffre ; and just above, on the north- 
ern side of Wady Seleim, are the remains of Deir es-Sid, surrounded 
also by the ruins of an old city. All the circumstances attending 
David's flight from Absalom, lead to the conclusion that this wady, 
the upper part of which is called Emkaitham and the lower portion 
Ruwaby, is the identical valley along the side of which the weeping 
king of Israel fled ; and the ruins indicate the site of Bahurim, 
out of which " came forth Shimei, and cursed still as he came, and 
he cast stones at David, and at all the servants of King David * * * 
Then said Abishai the son of Zeruiah unto the king, Why should 
this dead dog curse my lord the king ? let me go over, I pray thee, 
and take off his head * * * * And David said, Let him alone, and let 
him curse * * * And as David and his men went by the way, Shimei 
went on the hill's side over against him, and cursed as he went ; and 
threw stones at him and cast dust." (2 Sam. xvi.) It was in this 
place, too, that " Jonathan and Ahimaaz came to a man's house who 
had a well in his court, whither they went down, and the woman 
took and spread a covering over the well's mouth, and spread ground 
corn thereon, and the thing was not known ; and when Absalom's 
servants came to the woman to the house, they said, Where are Ahi- 
maaz and Jonathan? And the woman said unto them, They be gone 
over the brook of water. And when they had sought, and could 
not find them, they returned to Jerusalem." (2 Sam. xvii. 18-20.) 



564 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



iEnon identified. 

The Chaldee renders Bahurim Almath ; and it was probably identical 
with Aim on or Alemeth (Josh. xxi. 18, and 1 Chr. vi. 60), where it 
is associated with Anata, in the canton of Benjamin. It was a city 
of refuge. There is now no stream in the wady, except occasion- 
ally through the winter months ; nor is there any proof that there 
was a permanent stream at the period of time referred to : so that 
the present failure of water is by no means fatal to the recognition 
suggested, for great numbers of streams known to have existed at 
one time have long since disappeared. But the subterranean stream 
not far from this spot — though separated by a hill — may possibly 
be the representative of a former stream, that ran beneath the hill 
and burst forth in this valley — certainly not an impossible fact, nor 
even an unfrequent case in Palestine. 

* Although this conjecture — that Ain Farah was iEnon — must be 
set down to the account of a mere random suggestion of the moment, 
yet a more intimate acquaintance with the geography of the neigh- 
borhood has brought me to an assured conviction that this place is 
indeed no other than the " Enon, near to Salim, where John was 
baptizing, because there was much water there." But it may be 
well to assign the principal reasons by which I have been led to form 
a conclusion so different from the generally received opinion in rela- 
tion to Enon and Salim. Biblical geographers have generally con- 
curred in opinion with Eusebius and his commentator Jerome, in 
supposing that Enon was near a town in Galilee called in their day 
"Afim, Vicus Salumias, Salem or Salim, about eight miles from 
Scythopolis or Bethshean" (the Beisan of the present day), first 
brought to notice by those fathers in the 4th century. And this 
venerated patristic tradition has perhaps never been called in ques- 
tion, but is uniformly received in trust down to the present day, and 
that too not on account of a definite locality characterized by "many 
waters or much water," but simply because there happens to be 

* " Enon, juxta Salim, ubi baptizabat in octavo lapide Scytbopolios ad meridiem 
Joannes, sicut in Evangelio Kara loawrjv — juxta Salim et Jordanem." 
scriptum est; et ostenditur usque nunc locus 



JERUSALEM — AS IT IS. 



565 



JEnon. 

water of some sort somewhere in the neighborhood of a village called 
Alim, Shalim, Salem, Shulumias, Salumias — the ancient » Shalem, 
a city of Shechem," before which Jacob pitched his tent. But 
surely, never was tradition so poorly sustained — indeed it is self- 
refuted. Enon, they allege, was not only near to Salim, but also 
near the Jordan. Now, Salem is at least twenty-five miles from 
Scythopolis, and twenty from the nearest point on the Jordan. Enon 
being only eight miles from Scythopolis, with what propriety can it 
be called "near to Salem," when it is necessarily more than sixteen 
miles distant ! and that too in a country teeming with towns and 
cities. And if near to Salem, how could it be near also to the Jor- 
dan — being necessarily at least ten miles from each, even if situated 
midway. XS~or does even tradition speak of any place " near to 
Salem," answering John's description of Enon. 

Perceiving therefore the incongruities of the traditional allocation 
of these places, and finding that Ain Farah answers so admirably 
to Enon in every respect except the vicinity of Salim, I could but 
institute an investigation of the matter. And being unable to hear 
of any ruins called Salim thereabouts, I secured the services of an 
Arab of that neighborhood, and commenced a regular "furrage," 
(as the Arabs term an exploration ;) and on inquiring, when within 
a mile and a half of the fountains, u Shu ismo hatha wa&yf" — 
"What is the name of this wady?" had the satisfaction of hearing 
him pronounce the identical word ; and soon was conducted to the 
site of an ancient city. It is true that, on further inquiry of others, 
it was pronounced somewhat differently — Sillim, Silim, Sulim, 
Saleim, Sallem, Selam, &c, quite as near an approximation, 
however, to the present Hebrew orthography as could be expected 
from the slippery tongue of Arabs. For they use the vowels very 
arbitrarily ; and indeed nothing is more common than the same 
exchange of consonants, apparently without rhyme, rhythm, or 
reason. This will abundantly appear from the following specimens 
of Arabic pronunciation of Hebrew names. 



5G6 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Salim. 



Hebreio. Arabic. 

Anathoth ....... Annatta 

Bethel . . . . . . . . Beitin 

Jezreel . . . . . . . . Zerim 

Emmaus . *'-'.:,. . • • . . Am was 

Joppa . . . . . . . . Yaffa 

Siloam ........ Silwan 

Babilla . . . . . . . . Mamilla 

Kerith . . . . . . . . Kelt 

Jericho ........ Biha 

En Gannim ....... Jennin 



This valley (Wady Selim) commences on the eastern slope of 
Mount Olivet, rather more than a mile above the city ; and passing 
between a small village called Isawiyeh and Annata (the ancient 
Anathoth), runs almost due east about three miles, when it unites 
with Wady Ruwaby at Kirbet el Kubr Sufre. There is also a val- 
ley commencing at Tell el Ful, called usually Wady Sunam, but 
sometimes also Suleim or Senam or Selam, which, after running 
about two miles somewhat parallel to the above, unites with Wady 
Zreek, and is then known under the name of Wady Farab, the val- 
ley in which the fountains gush forth, rather more than a mile 
before their junction. The position of Salim would seem to have 
been well known : and if situated either at the ruins on the ridge 
around Deir es Sid, near some wine and oil presses, or at Kubr 
Sufre, it would have been quite a conspicuous object from Mount 
Olivet. It would thus be well known not only to all the " dwellers 
at Jerusalem," but all Israel being compelled to attend the feasts 
"from Dan even unto Beersheba," its. location w T ould be familiar to 
all : and hence the position of Enon would be well understood by 
the Apostle's reference to this "city set on a hill." We have no 
account that John exercised his ministry anywhere else than at 
Enon, in the wilderness, and at the Jordan ; nor is it at all probable 
that he ever preached elsewhere (unless it was when he reproved 
Herod) during the brief period of his ministerial career : if, there- 
fore, Enon and Wady Farah be identical, it is probable in the high- 
est degree that Enon is the place alluded to in the passage where 



JERUSALEM — AS IT IS. 



567 



Extract from Dr. Lightfoot's Works. 

the Saviour inquires of the people " what went ye out into the 
wilderness for to see? a reed shaken with the wind?" — for it 
abounds in reeds, and is now, as it probably always has been, the 
dividing line between the wilderness and the cultivated country, or 
rather an oasis a short distance in the wilderness of Judea where 
the Saviour was tempted of the Devil. The first entrance into the 
desert was three miles from Jerusalem, and that place was called 
Bath Chadudo, one of the scapegoat stations, according to the 
Talmud. 

On consulting the work of the very learned Dr. Lightfoot I find 
in sections 1, 2, 3, 4, of his " Chorographic Inquiry into some places 
mentioned by the Evangelist St. John," the following unexpected 
confirmation of this view of Enon. In speaking of the generally 
received opinion that Salim is indicated in the 18th verse of the 
33d chapter of Genesis, where Moses is made by our translators to 
say that "Jacob came to Shalem (or Salem), a city of Sichem," he 
remarks that 

" Neither the Jews nor Samaritans acknowledge any such thing. For the Jews render 
it, and that not without reason, 'Jacob came safe into the city of Sichem.' The Samaritan 
text hath 'he came in peace.' And certainly there is no part of mankind could be more 
likely to judge than the Samaritans whether Shalem or Salem in that place were the name 
of any city, yea or no. * * * * * If now the reader can pitch upon any places he may have met 
with in his reading, as that which our Evangelist here meaneth, let him consider whether 
the article tou may properly be prefixed to it, whereas the names of all cities and towns 
are of the feminine gender generally, and yet St. John hath it tou Saleim, which gives 
some ground of conjecture, that the passage is to be understood not of any town or city 
but of some other matter: which by way of exercitation it may not be amiss a little to 
enlarge upon. Every one that hath but dipt into the Chaldee Paraphrasts must know that 

the Kenites are called by them Salmeans of Salameans But the Kenite is not termed 

a Salamean from any place or country where he dwelt j for the Kenites in the southern 
parts of Judea are called Salameans; so, also, Heber the Kenite in Galilee, the Kenites 
amongst the Amalakites, and the Kenites beyond Jordan. Whence so called is not to our 
purpose; it sufficeth that they were vulgarly known by the name of Salame, which how 
near akin to Saleim (Salim) let the unbiassed reader judge. Who knoweth, therefore, 
but the Evangelist should mean thus — John was baptizing in Enon near the Salamean or 
Kenite — giving that name to that people which at that time they were commonly called by? 
But supposing this should be granted us, what Kenite should we understand here, either 
those that were in the wilderness of Judah, or those on the other side the salt sea? If the 
Essene might be called Salamean as well as Kenite (and certainly he seems to have as much 



568 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Enon. Dr. Lightfoot. 

claim to it if the word denote perfection or austerity of life), then I could more confidently 
place our Salim in the wilderness of Judah, because there I find Enon mentioned in the 
Greek version. (Josh. xv. 61, 62.) Where the Hebrew hath it thus: < In the wilderness 
Betharabah, Middin, and Secacah, &c. but the Greek (instead of Middin) a in on (JEnon) 
where it is plain that ain on (Enon) is put for Middin; but why it should be so is more 
difficult to tell. This only we may remark that the word Middin occurs Jud. v. 10, which 
if I should render 'ye that dwell by Middin/ I should have Kimche to warrant me, who, in 
his notes upon this place, tells us that Middin is the name of a place mentioned in Joshua. 
But now when ain on (Enon) signifies a place of springs or waters, see what follows — ■ 
' from the noise of archers among the places of drawing waters.' .... So that if you ask the 
Greek interpreter why he should render Middin by ain on (Enon), a place of springs, he 
will tell you that it was a place of those that draw waters. The Essens succeeded the 
Kenites in their dwelling* in the wilderness of Judah (Pliny, lib. 4, cap. 17), and not only 
so, but in strictness and austerity of life as Josophus and others assure us. Now if we will 
but allow the Essenes to be called Salamean, as the Kenites were, then the words of the 
Evangelist might bear such sense as this — 'John was baptizing in Enon near the Essenes.' 
And it may be supposed that as the Baptist had already conversed Avith two of the Jewish 
sects, the Pharisees and Sadducee?, and had baptized some of each, he would also now apply 
himself to a third sect, viz. the Essenes, and baptize some of them too.- But herein, I will 
not be positive." 

"While we are treating upon the word Ain on (J3non), I cannot but observe that the 
word is divided both in the Syriac and Arabic version — Syr. ain-jon (or Ion or Yon) = 
Ain-yon: Arab, Ain-nunf — 'In the Fountain Jon, Ion, or Yon, and in the Fountains 
Nun.' The words of the Evangelist seem to discover the signification of the name — ' oti 
hudata polla een ekei,' because there was much water there, for we could not have rendered 
the word more significantly than 'a place of springs, or a watery place. So Nonnus, 

Hudati baptizon bathuh — monos eggathi Saleem. 
Baptizing near the waters of deep-waved Salem. 

Why, therefore, did these interpreters take the word in two, when it was plain and etymo- 
logical enough of itself? Whilst we are in this watery country [he is here speak- 
ing of the ' many springs' in the region of the Castle Macharus, in which John the Baptist 
was incarcerated by Herod], are we not got amongst the rivers of Arnon ? The learned 
Beza commenting upon those words of St. John — ' for there was much water there' — affirms 
it, commenting thus : namely, ' many rivers of which, also in that tract about Aroer, there 

is mention in the Books of Moses But here we find no place that is either called iEnon 

or Salim.' True, indeed, but the place, for the very wateriness of it, deserves to be called 
JEnon, that is a place of springs ; and if Salem may be the same with Salamean, here we 



* It is certainly within the range of reason- f " Aiyfin" is the plural of ain, as at pre- 

able probability that the cells which I have sent pronounced by the Arabs about Jeru- 

conjccturally ascribed to the eremite monks salem; but it is doubtless a contraction for 

of the era of Frank domination in Palestine, Ainyun — quite a near approach to a in o o n 

may have been the habitations of the Essenes or Enon. 
here alluded to. 



JERUSALEM — AS IT IS. 



569 



Etymology of Enon. 

have also the Salamean or Kenite. (Gen. xv. and Num. xxiv.) However, in a thing so 
very obscure, it is safest not to be positive ; and the reader's candor is begged in this modest 
way of conjecturing. The way we tread is unbeaten, and deserves a guide, which as yet we 
have not obtained." (Vol. ii. 498, 499.) 

Tims writes the great Oriental Scholar : but the obscurity that 
then beclouded the matter has been dissipated by the discovery of 
Wady Selim, which affords the clue to the identification of this 
interesting locality. 

The etymology of the term affords another argument in favor of 
this identification. Its Hebrew name is a i n o o n and not Enon : 
and this is almost exactly the Chaldaic Hebrew for fountains. The 
perfectly limpid water of the upper fountain being received into a 
somewhat hemispherical or bowl-shaped excavation in reddish and 
greenish mottled marble eight or ten feet diameter and about half 
as deep, is not inaptly compared to a bird's eye, when reflecting the 
hues of the sky. And it is to this fact, according to many excellent 
scholars, that the etymology of the term points. But there is yet 
another matter of interest connected with these waters. On 
inquiring of the natives — if such we may term the nomadic bipeds 
that roam through these wilds — where these waters emptied into the 
Jordan, I learned that on sinking into the earth and again emerging 
just below the junction of wadys Fuwar and Farah, the stream is called 
Kelt ; and after flowing or rather tumbling eastward about ten miles, 
passing directly by the Castle of Jericho, empties into the Jordan a 
mile or two below. Now the recognition of the Hebrew word 
Cherith in the Arabic garb Kelt may seem rather far-fetched to a 
person unacquainted with such latitudinous transitions of names in 
Palestine : but it is nevertheless true that Kelt is an Arabic corrup- 
tion of Kerith — and accordingly we find this same stream at Jericho 
styled " Flumen Krith," by some old authors. But in corrobora- 
tion of this assertion I quote the following passages in relation to 
the stream at Jericho from the Biblical Researches (Vol. ii. 288.) 
" So far as it depends upon the name, this Wady Kelt may have 
been the brook Cherith where the prophet Elijah hid himself and 



670 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Elijah fed by ravens. 

was fed by ravens. The Arabic form Kelt and the Hebrew Cherith 
are indeed not exactly the same, though the change from Resh to 
Lam and that of Kaph into Koph are sometimes found." And in 
relation to the position of Cherith, Dr. Robinson farther remarks 
very appropriately that " there is also an apparent difficulty in the 
circumstance that the brook Cherith is said to be before Jordan ; 
which is usually understood as meaning east of Jordan. But the 
difficulty vanishes if we translate it towards Jordan ; and that this 
may be done is shown by Gen. xviii. 16 and xix. 28, where the angels 
and Abraham, in the vicinity of Hebron, are said to have looked 
< towards Sodom' — the expression in Hebrew being the very same 
as here. So too Judges xvi. 3." 

It is a matter of pleasing surprise that amongst the . many 
parallels that might be drawn between Elijah the Tishbite and John 
the forerunner (the " Elias that was for to come") is evidently the 
fact that they both spent a portion of their time, in this delightful, 
grand, and fearful wady — for doubtless it was to the ravines of this 
very valley that the prophet fled when the Lord said unto him (1 
Kings xvii. 3, 6) " Get thee hence and turn thee eastward, and hide 
thyself by the brook Cherith that is before Jordan. And it shall 
be that thou shalt drink of the brook ; and I have commanded the 
ravens to feed thee there. So he went and did according unto the 
word of the Lord : for he went and dwelt by the brook Cherith 
which is before Jordan. And the ravens brought him bread and 
flesh in the morning, and bread and flesh in the evening, and he 
drank of the brook." And surely a more admirable place of seclu- 
sion could nowhere be found. Some of its yawning chasms aro 
absolutely frightful to behold. The ruins of an old convent are 
to be seen toward the lower end of the valley where possibly 
tradition once located the retreat of the hermit-prophet pro tern., so 
situated that nothing short of the ravens and other privileged orders 
of the feathered tribe could ever reach it, unless the most desperate 
efforts of the Arab species of bi-manu-ped Homo might succeed in 
scaling it. And it is still a mootable point whether Elijah was fed 



ft 

JERUSALEM — AS I T I S. 



571 



Excursion to Gaza. 

by the ravens or by the Arabs. The word rendered raven, being 
pointed by the Masoretic Doctors so as to read Orebim, is properly 
translated ravens by King James's translators, but might also have 
been pointed so as to mean Arabs ! The distinction being made 
alone by the Masoretic points ; for the original consonants without 
the affixed points were convertible either into a proper name Orebim 
or susceptible of being rendered ravens, Arabs, or strangers. Nor 
need any one be apprehensive lest such a version should detract 
from the value of the miracle : for when we consider the innate 
antipathy and hatred borne towards the Jews, by those " whose 
hand is against every man" in general and the Jew in particular, it 
would be almost as miraculous for a poor despised Jew to be thus 
fed by an Arab as by a raven. It is a little remarkable, however, 
that these wild fastnesses should still be the favorite abode of ravens 
and other rapacious birds that now dispute with the Arabs the 
mastery of this valley. 

Extracts from a letter transmitting a Journal of an excursion to Gaza, &c. 

.... I scarcely know whether such a mere itinerary as the accompanying journal is em- 
braced in the request contained in your last kind communication, and I therefore feel some 
reluctance in sending it: but, inasmuch as it contains certain matters of interest, interspersed 
here and there, which I think you would like to present to the public, I conclude to send it 
just as it is — devolving upon you the onerous task of separating the few grains of wheat 
from the mass of enveloping chaff — provided you have patience to turn your quill into a 
winnowing shovel, and toss it up a few times on the threshing floor of your table editorial. 

Several considerations that I could not well resist induced me to undertake this trip. I 
had concluded, after much deliberation, to spend the summer at Jaffa, or somewhere else on 
the seacoast; and it therefore became necessary to make a preliminary visit of reconnois- 
sance. The delicate state of my own health, as well as that of my sons, rendered it highly 
advisable to take a few days' recreation beyond the influence of Jerusalem's mephitic vapors : 
and, while so doing, we concluded to take Gaza and "a certain water" in our route, with 
the view of determining a point about which there has long existed the greatest diversity 
of opinion. 

May Hth, 1853. Accompanied by Mr. L., of Scotland, and Messrs. C. and A., of the 
United States, we made our exit from Zion Gate, Ethiopia-ward, soon after sunrise, nine 
souls, all told, including muleteer and guide. Descending the western steep of Zion, we 
orossed the Valley of Hinnom on the southern wall or dam of the "Lower Pool of Gihon," 
once a beautiful sheet of water, covering about four acres, and entered upon the beautiful 
Plain of Rephaim, just at the foot of the Hill of Evil Council. 

Forcibly reminded of David " fetching a compass behind the Philistines" at this spot, 



572 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Plain of Rephaim. Bethlehem. 

when he heard a "going in the tops of the mulberry-trees/' by the extensive orchard of 
these trees planted just here to supply the large cocoonery and silk-house lately erected by 
the Philistinian Greeks, out of the fine limestone of the adjacent tombs. Expecting soon 
to have their religion firmly planted here as the established religion of Judea, they are 
making rapid strides in the acquisition and improvement of property. But it is probable 
that the detection of their late gunpowder-smuggle plot has so aroused the- jealousy of the 
Turks, as effectually to arrest their farther aggrandizement for the present. Leaving to the 
left the Hill of Evil Council and the curious-looking tree whereon Judas hung himself, we 
soon reached the Well of the Magi, where, " they say," the star reappeared to the wise men 
of the east. A few hundred yards farther we passed the Greek Convent of Elijah on the 
left, and on the opposite side, in the hard limestone, the impression of the prophet, where, 
hardly bestead and hungry, the poor fugitive seer lay down to repose. For a wonder, no 
Mussulman was praying on the top of the little building here erected, strangely enough for 
the double purpose of a Mohammedan oratory and general watering-place. Thus far and for 
half a mile farther, the small pottery conduit bringing water from Solomon's Pool to the city 
is on the left at various distances, according to its horizontal meanderings; and to the right 
I have traced for several miles a much more substantial and capacious one of stone, evidently 
very ancient, and having a handsome little marble reservoir near el-Khamis, on the water- 
shed between the Mediterranean and Dead Seas. Pursuing the same general track no 
doubt once traversed by Jacob, as he journeyed from Bethel to the tower of Edar, we soon 
came to a small domed building, whence "there was but a little way to Ephrah, which is 
Bethlehem," which it is highly probable that tradition is not much at fault in handing down 
to us as the place where the pious old patriarch buried his beautiful and well-favored Rachel. 
Instead of the commemorative pillar mentioned by Moses as existing in his day, there ia 
now within the wely a mere rude oblong tumulus which, however, is a favorite place of pil- 
grimage for the daughters and sons of Israel. What "lamentations and weeping and great 
mourning" did I witness here a short time ago — Rachel's daughters weeping, not for their 
children but for themselves ! The men also moaned and groaned most piteously ; but prin- 
cipally manifested their emotions by reeling to and fro, and by violent contortion* of coun- 
tenance. In less than half an hour we reached Bethlehem, where we were joyfully received 
by some of the inhabitants ; and whilst most of the party went into the convent to examino 
its rare aggroupment of "sacred localities," I took my stand at the main door, and seeing 
some of our old patients and friends, I told them I not only had along with me medicine for 
the body, but for the soul — at the same time displaying a bundle of tracts I had lately 
printed for the special benefit of the Bethlemites. Had I offered them an equal weight of 
gold, there could scarcely have been a greater rush. In less than one minute the whole 
bundle was exhausted, and many applicants went away unsupplied. But though they scram- 
bled for the tract as though it were " sweet as honey," it will doubtless prove a bitter pill 
on deglutition, at least to the vitiated taste of the priests, like " the little book" of the Apoca- 
lypse 

Leaving this heaven-honored "House of Bread" (Beth-lehem), still called by the natives 
Beit-leham (House of Flesh), out of which came forth He "whose goings forth have been 
from of old, from everlasting," we returned to the main Hebron road, and in less than an 
hour reached those wonderful pools of water, made by the wise preacher who was king in 
Jerusalem, " to water therewith the wood that bringeth forth trees." These immense pools 



JERUSALEM — AS IT IS. 578 

Solomon's Pools. Hebron. 

are only supplied in part by a fountain, and hence, owing to the unusually light rains dur- 
ing the past rainy season, are only partially filled — indeed, the lower one was nearly dry. 
Unitedly, they expose a surface of water, when only half filled, equal to an area of ten or 
twelve acres; and owing to the slightly declining ledges or steppes on their sides, possess 
all depths at all seasons or stages of water from their greatest depth of forty or fifty feet 
in the centre to the superficies on the upper shelving rocks. 

Leaving the pools after a short delay, and pursuing a southerly course through the battle- 
field of Ibrahim Pasha and the Fellahin, down Wady el-Beer — well so named from the 
number of wells or tanks it contains, we reached Beer Hadji Ramadan at 12 o'clock, having 
passed Subbeek and several other ruins. Having watered the horses, I descended into the 
tank by its short flight of stone steps, but though the water was quite cool, it was rather un- 
palatable. It seems to be a very weak fountain, or shallow well, and perhaps never overflows 
except during very rainy seasons. It was only a few inches in depth where the steps entered 
it; but seemed to be four or five feet deep at the farther end of the vault. At 12^ o'clock 
reached Kirbet Opheen, where there are some ruined buildings, a mosk, and many large 

stones lying about in wild confusion, and some of them beveled after the Jewish style 

A little farther on we discovered, on rummaging amongst the ruins, a natural cavernous reser- 
voir of water, and on descending it by means of a limb with projecting knots, found quite a 
pretty little sheet of water, shallow in front, but apparently quite deep in the rear. The 
ceiling of the cave is supported by a rude artificial pillar. . . . 

.... At the end of the next hour we had passed Neby Yunas or Halhul, and ed-Dirweh. 
There appear to be two distinct places of this name near each other; this was Essor ed- 
Dirweh, supposed by Dr. Robinson, with every reasonable probability of truth, to be Bethzur 
of Judah. If so, the water, which in the days of Eusebius was absorbed in the sand, is now 
received into a well-cemented reservoir. Many cattle, horses, and persons, besides our own 
company, enjoyed the refreshing beverage as it poured into the trough and flowed off into 
the pool — the latter three or four yards square, and the former about fifteen feet long and 
nearly three in breadth. One of the Arabs pertinaciously held on to my bridle, demanding 
a buckshish. Another took a more quiet way of taxing us for drinking on the Sultan's 
highway, by abstracting a handkerchief from Mr. J.'s pocket; but returned it evidently with 
less grace than regret, when detected. As we passed through the plains, half an hour's ride 
this side Hebron, we turned aside from the main road to visit the far-famed tree under which 
" they say" Abraham dwelt. This is the land of the Anakim, and truly it is an Anak of a 
tree, measuring about twenty feet in circumference, and its shadow at noon covering several 

thousand square feet That this is not the tree which it is piously affirmed to be, is 

evident, not only from the express declaration of Jerome that it had disappeared in the 
fourth century, but from the fact that the Father of the Faithful dwelt under a terebinth or 
butm tree, while this is an oak ! ! ! There are very fine and extensive vineyards in this part 

of Arba, producing a seedless grape Several small aqueducts observed just before 

reaching town ; and also several wells and fountains, with their attendant pools. 

We reached Hebron at half past four, and pitched our tents on a gently declining plain 
near the Lazaretto, commanding a fine view of this venerable old city — "built seven years 
before Zoan in Egypt," now called Khaleel or Friend by the natives. Having secured our 
horses and set our tabernacle in order, we sallied forth, stirred by the recollections of so 
many memorable events in the history of the " Friend of God"— of the faithful spy who "fol- 



574 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Pool of Hebron. Upper and nether springs. 



lowed the Lord wholly," — and "of the man after God's own heart." Our first effort was, if 
possible, to get a peep into the high enclosure containing the " Cave of Machpelah before 
Mamre, the same is Hebron, in the land of Canaan, which Abraham bought for a possession 
of a burying-plaee." But the jealous soldier on guard frowned indignation and seemed to 
say to us, " Procul, procul esti profani!" and lest we should not understand the logic of 
surly looks, pointed his musket directly at us. We found it convenient forthwith to veer to 
the left, and interpose a wall between us; being content now to climb a hill and view this 
" tabooed" spot at a more respectful distance. Perceiving a glass foundry in full blast, we 
called in to see the Arabic operation of blowing glass ; and found this Ishmaelitish branch of 
Abraham's family quite expert in making vials, lamps, tubes, &e. A short distance farther we 
found them making bottles, such as are mentioned in Scripture, still in universal use through- 
out all this country. These are made not from mineral, but from animal matter — not by 
fire, but by water. A goat is carefully drawn out of his skin, with as small an opening as 
possible at the neck; and very slightly tanned with the hair on. It is then filled with chips, 
and water being introduced, the wood, by swelling, expands the bottle considerably, and it 
is now ready for use. Visited the two pools — over the lower, larger, and better one of which, 
called "the Pool of Hebron," it was that David hung up the heads of the murderers of Ish- 
bosheth. In wandering about the estates of Abraham and his confederates, Eschol and 
Aner, we stumbled upon several beautiful fountains and shallow wells, arched over, but 
accessible by steps — some of them perhaps "the upper springs," and some the "nether 
springs." .... We didn't visit the reputed tomb of Abner, nor the place where Cain killed 
Abel, nor did we bring away any of the red earth out of which, " they say," Adam was 
made ! What incredulous pilgrims ! We were repeatedly hooted at, cursed, and stoned by 

the Moslem children — worthy successors of the Anakim in brutality and iniquity 

After reading many incidents in the life of the "Father of the Faithful" — doubly interest- 
ing under existing circumstances, we commended ourselves to the God of Abraham, Isaac, 
and Israel, and sought for our wearied limbs the refreshment of balmy nature's sweet 
restorer. 

3Iay \bth. In such exercises as reading the word of the Lord, meditating upon his ways 
and works, social and secret devotions, the Lord's day passed sweetly, swiftly, and I trust, 
not unprofitably away. 

Owing to the delay caused by refurnishing our larder, "the sun had risen upon the earth'' 
at Hebron as well as at Sodom, before we had resumed our journey on Monday morning. 

. . . . Going northward for one hour At seven, tarry awhile at Ain el-Oaf, where there 

are several fountains issuing from the crevices in the rocks, some poorly tilled gardens, and 

a pool, nine by fifteen feet. Great resort for birds Two large millstones here lying 

half buried, seem to indicate that the fountains above were once much more copious, and 
after being used for irrigating the gardens, their united streams were brought to this spot 

for the purpose of driving a flour-mill At ten o'clock reached Beit Jebrin. This is 

the ancient Beto Gabra, or Eleutheropplis, an important episcopal city of the early Chris- 
tian ages, discovered in 1844 by the laborious researches of Drs. Robinson and Smith, after 

lying many centuries unknown We here first noticed the rude machinery by which 

water is drawn from the deep wells by camels, somewhat as the gardens at Jaffa are watered. 
There were several of these wells with their capacious pools and troughs continually kept 
in requisition for watering the immense herds around us, and we also noticed the remains of 



JERUSALEM — AS IT IS. 575 

Fertile soil. Rude machinery for raising water. 

a small aqueduct. Learning that several tribes of Arabs on the " desert" road to Gaza, con- 
trary to what we had learned in Jerusalem, were at war with each other, and apprehending 
from the suspicious movements of the crowds around us, that foul play might be brewing, 
we concluded to cut short our visit, and strike for some of the villages a few miles higher up 
where we might lodge in safety, instead of pitching our tents in the Hassy country amongst 
the belligerents, as we had designed doing. We therefore left Beit Jebrin without staying 
to explore those wonderful excavations in the adjacent hills, or even visiting the Church of 

St. Hannah or Ain Judeia, the reputed fountain of Samson Leaving Beit Jebrin at 

11 J o'clock and threading our way amidst a fleet of "ships of the desert," heavily laden 
with barley, at 12£ we reached Zeita, a picturesque Arab village, situated on a conical hill, 
and inquiring for water, are directed to a well at the foot of the hill: arriving there, we 
found several persons drawing water for themselves, donkeys, horses, and cattle. And not- 
withstanding the water was rather warm and considerably muddied by a Fellah who was wading 
about in the deep fountain, or more correctly speaking, shallow well, yet so thirsty were we 
that we drank it with decided gusto. It was eight or ten feet deep, and four or five yards 

in diameter, with the usual supply of stone troughs for watering animals Such a vast 

expanse of grain we had never seen before. And constant were the exclamations of sur- 
prise elicited by such a cheering sight — Where can the people come from to consume all this 
ocean of breadstuff? What a silly notion— that of Volney and others — that Palestine was 
not adequate to the sustentation of the population anciently assigned to it ! The immense 
fields of doura (a species of millet, the small grains of which somewhat resemble Indian 
corn), occasionally alternating with the wheat and barley, concealing only partially the fer- 
tile red earth, were peculiarly rich 

Reach Burrier (called generally by the natives Elbrier), at 4.20, and pitch our tents a short 
distance from the mud huts, between the great threshing floors and the public well. This 
Sakieh or well, supplied with machinery for raising water, is plied day and night by camels. 
A beautiful marble Corinthian capital supports the shaft of the main wheel. There are 
eighty-five stone jars, each containing two or three gallons, fastened at intervals of four 
feet on the two endless grass ropes going over the large rough pulley wrapped with grass 
cords. The water, which is incessantly poured out of these jars, is received into a channel 
cut into a marble pillar laid horizontally, and thus delivered into a reservoir twenty-four 
feet square, and thence let off into a trough of masonry thirty-six feet long and two and a 
half broad, the outer border of which is made of marble pillars worked in horizontally, as 
in other instances. But copious and unremitting as is this supply of water, it would seem 
totally inadequate to the demand. Herd after herd, and flock after flock, came crowding in 

about sunset, and the cry was, "still they come," until it was too dark to count them 

How often have we been reminded of Ruth and Boaz, since leaving Bethlehem, where 
women were to be seen gleaning, and men, women, and children busily engaged on the 
threshing floors ! . . . . Many were washing in the pool and praying on its wall, and some of 
them quite patriarchal in appearance ; but though there were many things calculated to call 
up the scenes recorded in the lives of Abraham and Job, yet no suitable representatives of 

these old patriarchs could be found amongst all the worthies of Burrier In the assured 

hope that the God of Israel would soon grant the church the victory over all her enemies, 
with emotions unfelt before, did I sing aloud the triumphant song of Israel — 



576 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



"A certain water." Gaza. 

" Strike the cymbal, 
Roll the tymbal," 

slightly paraphrasing some of the stanzas impromptu — for we had been passing near the 
supposed site of Gath, and not very far from Elah 

Soldiers from Gaza, and Sheikhs from several neighboring villages, had assembled for the 
purpose of attending a parley between the delegates of the contending parties of whom we 
had heard at Beit Jebrin — the death of four hundred in a late battle having disposed then 
for peace — but news came just before sunset that the conference would be held at a neigh- 
boring village. "We now supposed it would be safe and practicable to return to the main 
route and visit El-Hassy at a point on the direct route from Jerusalem or at least from Beit 
Jebrin to Gaza, where Dr. Robinson locates the scene of the eunuch's baptism. And accord- 
ingly we first engaged one man, and then another and another, to accompany us there in 
the morning: but on a little reflection or remonstrance from their friends, they all declined, 
notwithstanding liberal offers of buckshish — through fear of falling into the hands of one 
or the other enraged belligerent parties. We were the more anxious to visit El-Hassy on 
account of information received recently from a Sheikh of Felluge and abundantly con- 
firmed at Burrier, that in Wady-el-Hassy about two or three hours distant, at Ras Kussah- 
beh and at Moyat es-Sid, in the same wady, the stream of water is as broad as our tent 
(twelve feet), and varies in depth from a span to six or seven feet — occasionally sinking and 
reappearing. This was doubtless (Moyat es-Sid) the certain water of which we were in 
quest; but we were constrained, however reluctantly, to abandon the idea of seeing it. 

Leaving Burat at 5 A. M., pass near some broken columns and a pool an hour afterwards. 
.... At seven pass a reservoir or pond fifty yards square, lately supplied with water but 

now almost dry near Beit Hannun Arrive in Gaza 8.20 — having travelled since leaving 

the immediate vicinity of Hebron, over one of the very best roads (with slight exceptions), 

and one of the most fertile countries, that I ever beheld Vegetation peculiarly rank — 

so much for water, for the sandy soil seems to be peculiarly barren. The palms are pecu- 
liarly majestic, though they have so long ceased to be emblematic of Hebrew grandeur 

On further inquiry about a "certain water," learn in addition to what I had heard above, 
that there is abundant water four or five hours from Gaza called Sheriah — the name by 
which the Bedawin designate the waters of the Jordan. The two or three pools about the 
city seem now merely to be receptacles for rain-water, though they may once have been 
supplied from fountains. The present Guzzeh (as the Arabs call it) is but a poor represent- 
ative of the ancient Gaza "the strong," the key of Egypt and Palestine, and one of the 
capitals of the lords of the Philistines, which had so often and successfully resisted the 
armies of Israel, a Pharaoh and an Alexander, and alternately the Saracens and Crusaders. 
It occupies but in part, if at all, the site of the old heaven-accursed city, and has been 
rebuilt in a very shabby manner out of the wreck of old materials, with the largest addition 
of mud. Most completely has tb 3 prophecy been fulfilled — that " Gaza shall be forsaken" — 
indeed it was probably deserted as early as the days of Luke. And as we gazed upon the 
naked white sand-hills upon which the ancient city seems to have been mainly situated, I 
thought in a moment of the prophetic declaration — "baldness has come upon Gaza." Of all 
her splendid palaces once decorating the surrounding hills, we saw no remains whatever 
larger than a man's hand — merely a few fragments of various-colored marbles — though it 
is said that, buried far below the surface of the long-accumulating sand of the desert, large 



JERUSALEM — AS IT IS. 



577 



Askalon. Sycamore fig. Migdal. 

rocks and pillars arc to be found on laborious excavation. To gaze on Gaza, is well calcu- 
lated to excite stirring emotions, and convey a profitable lesson on the vanity of all buman 
greatness 

Leaving Gaza at 9f, and passing the extensive pottery works in the suburbs, we proceed 
in a northwest direction to the quarantine station on the beach, which we reached at 10.25, 
and were quite cheered by the rather unusual sight of a large foreign merchant vessel, just 

about to bear away the productions of Palestine to the lands of the Gentiles Passed 

some wells on the beach, where wo are informed that good water is obtained by digging only 

a few feet At 12.40 stopped to water at a sweet little stream issuing from a beautiful 

6heet of water just on the coast, called Herbea, around whose banks many cattle, birds and 
wild fowls were feeding and sporting. Pursuing our lonely way along the beach, we arrived 
at Askalon, about half past two, and took lunch under some magniBcent trees near a lovely 
little mosk embowered in vines, shrubbery, and trees; amongst these trees is a very large 
fig sycamore (Ficus Sycamorus), called by the natives Jimaze — a basket full of the fruit of 
which (more than a peck) an Arab furnished us for 10 paras (about one cent], and delightful 
fruit it is too. Sycamore fig trees attain an immense size ; but bifurcating as they almost always 
do at a height of only two or three feet, and mainly extending horizontally, they are very 
easily climbed, which at once suggested the probability that this was really the kind of tree 

that the reformed publican of Jericho ascended in order to see his Lord What appeared 

at a distance to be rocks on a sand-hill proved on examination to be a strong wall built on 
a semicircular rock-ridge — almost entire in many places. Immense columns of granite, 
marble, and limestone were scattered about in wild confusion. The several hills embraced 
within the semilunar wall are terraced on a magnificent scale, and as well as the valley, richly 

stored with fruit trees and vegetables, looked like a little paradise in a desert There 

are many wells of water on the hills, as well as in the valleys : and we noticed the entrance 
to numerous subterraneous passages. Though offering so many inducements for residence 
in its ruins, yet there is not a single dweller within its walls — the gardens altogether culti- 
vated by the Fellahin of Jura, an adjacent mud village. That its present wall has been 
built out of the fragments of a former and magnificent city, is evident from the great num- 
ber of splendid marble and granite pillars built into it transversely to bind it together 

Why a place possessing such great and rare advantages should be thus neglected, seemed 
quite a mystery, until we remembered that thus it is written, and therefore thus it must be — 
" Askelon shall be a desolation" — " Askelon shall not be inhabited" — " woe to the inhabitants 
of the seacoast, land of the Philistines, I will even destroy thee, that there be no inhabit- 
ants; and the seashore shall be dwellings and cottages for shepherds and folds for flocks." 
And surely never was there a more literal fulfilment of the sure words of prophecy ! There 
is not a single inhabitant of this once mighty city; and the few Arab villages constructed 
here and there by these pastoral Ishmaelites, are designed almost entirely as folds for the 

accommodation of flocks We left this very interesting spot at 4J o'clock, and in twenty 

minutes reached Ibrahim Pasha's barracks, wells, <fcc., a detour half a mile to the right, to 

see a ruin called Mished A few minutes more brought us to a beautiful grove and 

garden, with its well, cistern, &c, called a Biera, whose refreshing water we much en- 
joyed 

At half past five we found our tent pitched in Mijdil (the ancient Migdal?) .... It seems to 
derive an abundant supply of water from largo wells ; and the towering palms, interspersed 

37 



678 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Ashdod. Jaffa. Ramley. 

here and there, and the numerous fruit trees, by which it is surrounded, impart to it a pecu- 
liar rural and oriental aspect As soon as they learn that we have medicines to distri- 
bute, patients are forthcoming in large numbers. Greatly enjoyod a fine large watermelon 

as dessert after our fishfry Received the same accounts of the water in the Hassy 

country that I had so frequently received elsewhere. Reminded of Boaz and Ruth by 
observing the guards rise with early dawn from the heaps of barley on the threshing floor, 
where they had slept all night. 

.... At Ashdod we learned from some intelligent Turks that Jaffa, instead of being taken 
by the Russians, as we had heard reported, had simply been saluted with twenty-four guns from 

an American man-of-war At the base of the hill is a beautiful and highly sculptured 

piece of marble composing the front of a trough attached to the pool at the well, and here, 
as well as at all these pools, bees are found in great numbers. Being now " found at 
Azotus," what pleasure it would have afforded me to preach the gospel that Philip preached, 
to these bigoted idolatrous creatures, bowing down as they do to Dagon Mohammed, but under 

existing circumstances it appeared worse than casting pearls before swine to do so 

Forcing our way through the thousands of goats, sheep, camels, and donkeys that crowded 
around the pool and troughs, we slaked our thirst with the cool water drawn up so copiously 
by the patient blind-folded camel ; and much enjoyed our lunch under an umbrageo-us 

olive At 11.25, took leave of Yebna, and at the same time Philistia, with its cattle 

upon a thousand hills, and a thousand cattle upon a hill. At 12, opposite HubaJby, and at 
12£, cross the fertile Wady Haneen, and refresh ourselves at the waterworks in the Beira 
of Khawager Markus, the American consular agent for Ramley, where we find ripe Indian 
corn ! (May 17th.) .... 

At 4 o'clock reached the renowned city of the Son of Noah, beautifully situated upon a 
hill on the sea shore — having the sea on the west, and beautiful gardens on the east. 
Pleased to find seven quite large merchant vessels in the harbor, besides a great many 
smaller smacks for the coasting trade ; and what was far more beautiful, to behold the stars 
and stripes of America waving over the waters of Palestine ! " Ho ! to the land shadowing 
with wings !" The town has certainly improved since I visited it about two years ago. At 
the house of our highly esteemed Consul, Yacob Murad, we met with the Hon. Caleb Lyon, 
and Capt. Ingraham and officers of the corvette St. Louis, which had figured so largely 
down the coast, and whose visit to these shores is worth not a little to us, and to American 
interests in general in these ends — or rather the beginnings — of earth. The gardens of Jaffa 
are estimated at one hundred and fifty, one hundred of which have quite large pools, con- 
stantly supplied from shallow wells — wherewith all the trees as well as vegetables are daily 
watered. Whilst the citron, orange, lemon, banana, and palm strongly impress upon these 
gardens the peculiar features of tropical scenery, the appearance of the apple, pear, quince, 
Indian corn, and sweet potatoes seemed almost to carry me "back to old Virginny." Such 
luxuriant vegetation I never saw anywhere else except on the plains of the Jordan 

Left Jaffa at 3 -J o'clock, and passing by Yasur, Beit Dejan (where there are some broken 
columns and pleasant Beiras), and Surafend where there is a small disused aqueduct, we 
arrived in Ramleh at and pitched our tents by the side of a very substantial and appa- 
rently ancient pool a hundred and sixteen feet square, in which some Arabs were bathing, 
preparatory to praying. Arab women at the same time were bearing away large jars of 
water on their heads or in bottle skins on their backs. The pool is entered by two pairs of 
step? and affords a supply of water throughout the year 



JERUSALEM — AS IT IS. 



579 



Colonia. 



Leaving Ramley at 4J o'clock on 19th, at 5 we were opposite Berea (not the Scripture- 
searching place), half a mile to the right, at 5i At 7.25, stop to water at Ayouab, a deep 

fountain or shallow well, about five feet in diameter and six feet in depth, containing three 

or four feet of water At 10J midway between Kirjath jearim and Kastul, are the 

fountain and ruins of El Dib, and a little further on to the left is Beit Nacouba Still 

pursuing the track which, I doubt not, from the physical nature of the country, David pur- 
sued in bringing the ark from Kirjath -jearim to Jerusalem, we soon commence the descent 
of the worst hill on the road ; and here it was, in all probability, that Uzza was smitten for 
"his error." And close at band, no doubt, were also the sites of the threshing floor of 
Nachon, and the house of Obededom. The good Lord grant, that we may profit by the 
events thus "written aforetime, 'concerning Perez — Uzza,' for our learning," and may we 

be kept from error of heart, bead, and hand At 11| drank at the fount of Arsafear, 

and at llf stop a few minutes at Kuloney (Colonia) to examine the stone bridge, large ruins, 
fine pools, and copious fountains there. 

After ascending several large and steep hills, reach the table land ; immediately to our 
left, but more than one hundred yards, is Ain Lifta — a bold fountain — tbe water of which, 
being collected in pools, is used for irrigating the fine gardens of the village below. 

We arrived in Jerusalem safely at 1 o'clock — the Lord being merciful unto us. This was 
the Mohammedan Sabbath, and the gates, which are always closed from twelve to one on this 
day (Friday), were just being opened as we reached the city. But owing to a great fana- 
tical demonstration, consequent upon the administration of the seal of the Abrahamic cove- 
nant to a young sprig of Turkish nobility, our way was completely blockaded, as it had been 
during the night preceding our departure, by an overwhelming torchlight marriage proces- 
sion — and we were compelled to beat a retreat precipitately, and take shelter a length of 
time in a mill, before the uproarious crowd attending his gilded little Effendiship would 
allow us to proceed homewards. 



CHAPTER XX. 



MISSIONARY OPERATIONS 

To be " followers of the Apostles even as they followed Christ," 
is at once the duty, the honor, the interest, and the distinctive cha- 
racteristic of all whose earnest object it is to restore primeval 
Christianity to the world. Hence the American Christian Missionary 
Society (under whose auspices the mission to Jerusalem is conducted), 
in entering upon the prosecution of the missionary enterprise, 
resolved — as wisely as unanimously — in imitation of apostolic 
example, to make the first offer of salvation to Israel, that noble 
race from whom it came — "for salvation is of the Jews." 

"I am not sent," said the Messiah in addressing a Syro-Phoeni- 
cian heathen, "but unto the lost sheep of the house of Israel." — 
" Jerusalem ! Jerusalem !" he exclaims, while gazing on the devoted 
city, " how often would I have gathered thy children together, as a hen 
doth gather her brood !" And the twelve Apostles he also instructed 
to " go — not into the way of the Gentiles — but rather to the lost 
sheep of the house of Israel," during his continuance upon earth. 
And when finally commissioning these missionaries, just before his 
ascension, to go into all the world and preach the gospel to every 
creature, he specially charges them to witness for him first in Judea, 
"beginning at Jerusalem." And that they thus manifested a decided 
preference for the Jews in announcing the word of life, is most evi 



JERUSALEM — AS IT IS. 



531 



The conversion of the Jews the great object of the Apostles. 

dent from such of the acts of the Apostles as the Holy Spirit has 
recorded. The Apostle Paul declares also, in the tenth chapter of 
his letter to the Romans, " my heart's desire and prayer to God for 
Israel is, that they may be saved:" and in the ninth chapter he 
expresses his concern for them in still stronger terms — " I have 
great heaviness and continual sorrow in my heart, for I could wish 
that myself were accursed from Christ for my brethren, my kinsmen 
according to the flesh — who are Israelites — to whom pertain the 
adoption, and the glory, and the covenants, and the giving of the law, 
and the service of God, and the promises — whose are the Father's, 
and of whom, as concerning the flesh, Christ came, who is over all, 
God blessed for ever more." In the eleventh chapter, he assigns 
still more important reasons for preaching the word "to the Jews 
first" — declaring that they are not hopelessly cast away by an 
obdurate fate or irreversible decree of Heaven (as some affirmed 
even at that early day), but that they were only blinded in part 
until the fulness of the Gentiles should come in, and so all Israel 
should be saved : alleging that it is even easier to graft a Jew (who is 
of the native branch) upon the olive-tree of the kingdom, than the 
Gentile (who is wild by nature) ; and contending that if the casting 
away of them were the reconciling of the world, the recovery of 
them would be like recovering the world to life from the dead : 
for if the fall of them was indeed the riches of the world, and the 
diminishing of them the riches of the Gentiles, much more would 
their fulness be the riches of the world. No wonder, then, that we 
find him so pertinaciously adhering to this course (the Divine rule) ; 
not only in Judea, but in every part of the world wherever a son of 
Abraham was to be found — never turning to the Gentiles till the 
Jews judged themselves unworthy of everlasting life. Nor should 
gratitude on our part the less strongly concur with the honor and 
interests of Christianity to commend to us the same line of policy at 
this remote day — for upon the conversion and resumption of Israel 
is unquestionably suspended the destruction of Antichrist and the 
salvation of the world. 



582 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



An eminent race. Jerusalem a religious city. 

That the Hebrew race is the noblest that has ever adorned the 
annals of humanity, will not be questioned even by the proud Anglo- 
Saxons themselves : nor can it be doubted that if converted — speak- 
ing, as they do, all the languages of earth, habituated to all cus- 
toms, and acclimated to every region — they would make the best 
missionaries on the face of the globe. 

It is a fact as significant as it is singular, that notwithstanding 
the degradation, persecution, and robbery to which the Jews have 
for so many long ages been subjected by every nation on the earth 
(ourselves alone excepted), there is not a single department of life 
in which you may not find a son of Abraham preeminent. There 
is, perhaps, not a wealthier family amongst all the nations of the 
earth than the Rothschilds. Where is a more astute or enlightened 
politician than D'Israeli ? Where a purer patriot and philanthropist 
than Sir Moses Montefiore ? A brighter ornament to the church 
than Neander, or to literature than Messelshon ? In music they 
boast of (A) Braham. Nor does the world at present possess a more 
gifted dramatist than Mad. Rachel. But time would fail, were an 
attempt made even to mention the names of the many gifted Hebrews 
that adorn humanity in every sphere of life. 

Influenced by such considerations as these, the American Christian 
Missionary Society determined to plant its first mission in Jerusalem, 
mainly in reference to the Jews — not unmindful, however, that 
Jerusalem possesses various other claims upon our consideration as 
a field of missionary operations. The Holy City is essentially a 
religious city. No stronger emotions are experienced anywhere 
upon earth than at the " City of Solemnities," in some form or 
other — a consideration, certainly of no small moment in the selec- 
tion of a field for missionary operations. Thither go up in pilgrim- 
age, not only the tribes of Israel, and all the sects of Christianity 
(that of Protestantism only excepted), but the various factions of 
Islamism also. " Thus saith the Lord God," by the pen of Ezekiel. 
(v. 5, 6), and it is certainly as true now as it was then, " this is 
Jerusalem : I have set thee in the midst of the nations and countries 



JERUSALEM — AS IT IS. 583 
Different races at Jerusalem — its accessibility. 

that are round about her : and she hath changed my judgments into 
wickedness more than the nations, and my statutes more than the 
countries that are round about her, for they have refused my judg- 
ments, and my statutes they have not walked in them." Although 
it may savor somewhat of contradiction to assert that this same 
religious city (distinctively styled "Holy" even in the Bible itself, 
and which is yet destined preeminently to be " a city of truth" and 
holiness), is more remarkable for error and iniquity than any city 
on earth ; yet, perhaps nothing is hazarded in asserting that it is 
at this time the favorite "camping ground" of the prince of the 
power of the air — "the father of lies and author of evil!" And 
in view of the fact that accountability is directly proportioned to 
available light, this awful and disgraceful state of matters constitutes 
a special claim upon the consideration of those who have the truth, 
and profess to know how to wield it as an antidote to all error and 
evil. 

In no other city, perhaps, on earth, are there so many and such 
distinct races of men and grades of religion as are to be found in 
Jerusalem — the sensual, fair-skinned Turk — the swarthy, turbulent 
Arab — the barbarous, ebony-skinned African — the superstitious, 
circumventing Christian of every hue and dye, and the down-trodden, 
Banquo-like Israelite, the wanderer of every clime — a stranger 
everywhere — at home nowhere — not even on his own heaven-given 
soil ! 

From Jerusalem as a central point 75,000 of the Arab family can 
also be reached in every direction. Situated on the medimarinean 
isthmus, between the continents of Asia and Africa on the one hand, 
and the Mediterranean or Western Sea and the Indian or Eastern 
Ocean on the other, leading to the abode of Japhet in Europe, and 
the Isles of the Gentiles in all Oceanica : — it is thus accessible to 
all nations, tribes, kindreds, and tongues. Nor is there another 
spot on the face of the earth so well situated as Palestine for the 
erection of a mighty Pharos, for the diffusion of moral light amongst 
those that are sitting in the region and shadow of death. Hence 



584 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



The set time come. American Christian Missionary Society. 

the importance of creating an immense Bible Magazine in Jerusalem. 
Equally obvious too is the importance of the Holy City as the most 
suitable place on all the earth for a "school of the prophets" — a 
great mission establishment for preparing missionaries for the 
whitening fields of the East — that " the law may go forth of Zion, and 
the word of the Lord from Jerusalem." What a noble and inviting 
enterprise ! 

And what an inexhaustible fund of encouragement is found in 
the "sure word of prophecy — (whereunto we do well to take heed") 
— assuring us that whatever may betide other nations, the time is 
coming when every Jew upon earth shall be ransomed — " so all 
Israel shall be saved !" " This people have I formed for myself, saith 
Jehovah : they shall show forth my praise. Israel shall be saved in 
the Lord with an everlasting salvation, ye shall not be ashamed nor 
confounded, world without end : in the Lord shall all the seed of 
Israel be justified and shall glory ; and I will place salvation in Zion 
for Israel my glory !" 

And that the universal conversion of the Jewish nation shall 
occur prior to that of the Gentiles, is most manifest. Does not 
policy, then, concur with every other consideration in specially 
commending them to the first and best efforts of the Church ? Nor let 
scepticism supinely start the inquiry, " can these dry bones live ?" 
or venture to intimate that " the time is not come — the time that the 
Lord's house shall be built : — the year of recompenses for the 
controversy of Zion" — for " the time to favor Zion, yea, the set time 
is come ; for her people take pleasure in her stones, and favor the 
dust thereof!''' 

The American Christian Mission was planted in Jerusalem about 
six years ago — the mission family having reached that city on the 
8th day of February. 1851. After a sojourn of about three years 
and a half in the Holy City, it was deemed expedient to suspend 
operations for a time : but the causes that operated its suspension 
no longer existing, it will be immediately resumed — Providence per- 
mitting — and established upon a much more extended scale and 



JERUSALEM — AS IT IS. 



585 



Annual report of the Mission. 

permanent basis than formerly. The history of this mission having 
been given to the public in a volume published by the late Corres- 
ponding Secretary of the Society, D. S. Burnet, the mere summary 
of its operations, contained in the following extract from the last 
Annual Report of the Mission (February 9th, 1854), must here 
suffice : — 

.... In entering upon the fourth year of our missionary effort at the Holy City, under 
circumstances of such distinguishing mercy, we cannot but call upon our soul3 and all that 
is within us, to praiso and bless the name of the Lord, that we have been so long permitted 
to enjoy the privilege of witnessing for the truth of the Gospel, in a place invested with so 
much interest and importance. And although the sanguine expectations that some have 
indulged rather overweeningly, in relation to the success of "the ancient Gospel" amongst 
"God's ancient people," may not have been realized, yet surely, if the Bible estimate of the 
worth of a soul be not exaggeration, we have abundant reason to " thank God and take 
courage," that, during the three years' existence of the Mission, more than a score of poor, 
blinded Jews and benighted Gentiles have been brought (savingly, as we trust) to a know 
ledge and reception of the truth as it is in Jesus. Of these, eleven have been added during 
the past year, making in all twenty-eight.* Had it been my object merely to establish a 
congregation of immersed professors of the Protestant religion, this number might easily 
have been increased many fold; but designing, if possible, to have none on the list but such 
a3 should evince and maintain pure motives and principles, in the love of the truth, I have 
been constrained amidst the most perplexing doubts and difficulties to exercise such a pru- 
dential discrimination, as compelled me, in the fear of God, to reject many applicants, who 

appeared to be influenced by sinister motives Consular and ecclesiastical power. 

threats and entreaties, love and money, the grossest misrepresentations, and appeals at 
once the basest and most alluring, have all been perseveringly plied, in order to seduce 
some of our converts into some one or other of the various religious communities here — all 
of which, odious as most of them are, enjoy a higher degree of popularity than is accorded 
to the religion planted here by the meek and lowly "Just One" and his Galilean followers. 

I am thus tediously minute upon this disagreeable topic, in order that you may be the bet- 
ter enabled to appreciate the difficulties of our position, and aid us by your counsels, prayers, 
and co-operation. But whilst your sympathies will be painfully excited by the recital of 
these discouragements, you will rejoice with me, I am sure, when you learn that I have 
never anywhere seen greater devotion to the Gospel than that manifested by some of thosa 
whom I have had the privilege of introducing into the kingdom. 

Failing to get the font of Hebrew type of which we were in expectation, we have been 
unable to issue the few sheets we contemplated for the benefit of the Jews. But we have 
struck off a few small tracts for the benefit of Italian pilgrims and residents, directed against 
the machinations of the "Scarlet Lady," which, brief and imperfect as they are, have been 
decidedly productive of good ; though "at the same time there arose no small stir about that 
way !" 



* The number was subsequently increased to thirty-one. 



586 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Annual Report of the Mission. 

The necessity of spending a large portion of the year beyond the reach of the unhealthy 
exhalations of the city, renders it impossible for us to accomplish much in the way of school- 
teaching. But this is matter of less regret, inasmuch as there are no children of our con- 
verts requiring instruction. We have, therefore, made no special effort for a regular school; 
and, indeed, have refused many applications in behalf of children already attending school 
— being content merely to instruct such adults as voluntarily apply for instruction — deeming 
it best, under existing circumstances, to leave mere literary instruction to the well sustained 
English and German institutions here. 

Setting as high an estimate as ever upon the importance of pioneering the Gospel by 
"healing all manner of sickness, and all manner of disease among the people," I have to 
regret that neither the number of patients treated at the dispensary, nor those visited at their 
houses, has been as great as formerly, owing not only to our absence from the city the greater 
portion of the year, but to the recent establishment of other gratuitous curative institutions; 
the French having lately established a very fine hospital, the Prussians quite an extensive 
hospice, and the English another dispensary — all eleemosynary : so that whatever else they 
may need, there is now no lack of gratuitous relief to the indigent sick of Jerusalem. And 
for the accommodation of such Jews as are unwilling to receive relief as beneficiaries, two 
educated Jewish physicians have also settled here. Still we have a goodly number in 
attendance at our dispensary on three days of the week : and I cannot but regard the medi- 
cal department of the Mission as highly important, and, under existing circumstances, almost 
indispensable — furnishing the most favorable access to all classes. 

My eldest son has been greatly importuned to return to Bethlehem, where, until the 
violent measures of the Latin Patriarch, he had from fifty to a hundred patients daily: 
but the prospect of benefiting them spiritually, since their purchased reconciliation to the 
authorities of the Convent, is not sufficiently encouraging to justify such a measure. It is a 
lamentable fact, that of the hundreds that promised so fairly a year ago, there is only one 
who appears to be seriously interested at this time ; and there is too much reason to suspect, 
from his long procrastination, that the loaves and fishes of the Convent stand greatly in the 
way of his obedience. Poor creatures ! Forming a judgment from their zeal in observing 
the feasts, fasts, and ceremonies of their church, one might suppose them very religious ; 
and so they are, truly, in their own way: but like the Samaritans of old, who "feared the 
Lord greatly, but served other gods," this mongrel cross of wild Arabs with eremite ascetics 
and knight-errant Crusaders "fear the Lord and serve their graven images — as did their 
fathers, so do they unto this day." 

Although the possession of a place of temporary shelter for indigent and persecuted con- 
verts is so very desirable, yet I have not deemed it expedient to attempt the purchase of 
such a place during the troubled state of the country that has prevailed almost ever since 
our dispossession of Wady Farah 

Very little has been done in Bible distribution during the past year ; and I have been 
pained to see importunate applicants for the Word of Life go away empty-handed ! . . . . 

You will be pleased to learn that the Mohammedans are much more accessible than they 
formerly were, and occasionally listen, not only with patience and forbearance, but with 

evident interest We lately held a long and interesting discussion with the Chief Mufti 

(the spiritual head of the church) ; and although he manifested much warmth of feeling in 
defending his views and practices, he was much moved by the sublime morality of the 



JERUSALEM — AS IT IS. 587 
Annual Report, <fcc. 

" Sermon on the Mount," which was read to him for the purpose of contrasting Christianity 
with Islamism : and I am certain, from subsequent circumstances, that he went away favor- 
ably impressed. This is something new under the sun ! A Fellah of very good character, 
who, as well as his wife, is altogether disposed to embrace Christianity, is now here — though 
he has been absent for some time; and his case has caused me no little moral perplexity: 
but not being satisfied that, under existing circumstances, it is the part either of duty or 
propriety to urge immediate obedience, lam acting rather passively; for there is every 
reason to believe that his open profession at this critical juncture would not only cost him 
his property, but his life — the Toleration Firman to the contrary notwithstanding. 

The kindness and consideration with which we are treated by Mohammedans of all grades, 
and especially by those of the highest circle, is matter of great astonishment, and augurs 
well for the future. 

Deeming it important that you should bo correctly informed of the ecclesiastical statistics 
of the field in which your Mission is established, I submit the following statement, which 
has been collected with much care from the most reliable sources, that you may be the 
better enabled to form a proper estimate of the fruit to be expected from the labor bestowed 
upon its culture 

The Jews are composed of two principal classes — the Sephardim and Askenazim. Of the 
Sephardim, the Spanish Jews number about nine thousand, and the Mugrabin only about 
fifty. Of the Askenazim class, the Perushim (or Pharisees) number about one thousand two 
hundred; the Khassydim (Pious), about eight hundred; the Khabaad (or Hebronites), one 
hundred; and the Kairaites (distinguished for discarding the Talmud), only forty. The 
remaining subdivision of the Askenazim — the German Jews — number about one hundred. 
About two hundred and forty-six Rabbis (so called) preside over these various classes of 
Jews, as lords temporal as well as spiritual ; and a more grinding despotism is not, perhaps, 
exercised upon the whole face of the earth. About fourteen houses, dignified by the name 
of " Synagogues," are used for the purpose of worship, though only three or four are worthy 
of this appellation ; and for special indoctrination in Talmudic philosophy, they have various 
other more retired places of study. The very partial literary instruction received by the 
children is imparted in the most disorderly and imperfect manner, either in private families 
or a public school — there being only one such for all the fraternity of Israel. 

The annual foreign contribution by which the Jews are almost exclusively maintained, is 
exceedingly precarious, both in collection and disbursement. This fund is said to yield to 
a large number of the Jews only about ten paras (one cent) per day, after passing through 
the hands of the messengers and rabbis, the latter of whom especially, it is said greatly to 
enrich, in transitu, and afford the means of completely lording it over the conduct and con- 
sciences of their poor, abject, dependent lay brethren. Half a piastre (or rather more than 
two cents) would be a liberal average for the general daily allowance to each Jew ! And 
how they can eke out the scantiest livelihood, with the little employment they can get, is 
one of the wonders of Jerusalem. Many of them, however, are vicarious residents, and 
this class are said to be quite well sustained by the special contributions of those whom they 
thus substitute — a kind of residence by proxy thought to be almost as meritorious as an 
actual abode in propria persona. 

The Mohammedans of Jerusalem are all Turks, with the exception of a few proselytes from 
the Jews and Greeks, one or two hundred Arabs, and three or four hundred negroes from 
the west of Africa. . . . 



588 CITY OF TIJE GREAT KING. 

Missionary Report, <fce. 

Church and State affairs are so intimately blended, that it is difficult to say what special 
functionaries are peculiar to each ; but it would seem that their ecclesiastical affairs, in this 
city, are under the jurisdiction of a Cadi Moolah, two or three Muftis, three or four Imaums 
or preachers proper, one Nakeeb, half a dozen Chief Dervishes, and about one hundred of 
subordinate character, one hundred Sheikhs, two dozen Muezzim, and a great number oi 
still inferior officers and servants 

The following brief statement will convey a correct idea of the variety, numerical strength 
official staff, and resources of the different Christian sects now in Jerusalem : 

The Greek Church has 1 Patriarch, 1 Archimandrite, 6 Bishops, 150 Priests, 90 Nuns, 100 Boys 
in training for the priesthood, 1 Theological and 3 Common Schools, 12 Convents, with 12 
Churches attached, 1 Dispensary, with Physician and assistants — Total Membership . . . 225; 
The Latins. — 1 Patriarch, 100 Priests, 10 Nuns, 2 Churches, 2 Convents, 2 Hospitals, with Male 
and Female Physicians, 1 Almshouse, 1 House of Hospitality, 1 Printing Establishment,! Theo- 
logical Seminary, 2 Common Schools, Superiors, Yicars, Procurators, Reverendissirnos, &c. 

Members (50 of whom are Franks) . . . . 1350 

Armenians. — 1 Patriarch, 2 Bishops, 32 Priests, 10 Deacons, 51 Subdeacous, 25 Nuns, 1 Printing 

Establishment, 2 Schools, 3 Convents and Churches . 464 

Copts.— 3 Priests, 1 Convent and Church 100 

Abyssinians. — 1 Bishop, 15 Priests, 1 Convent and Church . . 80 

Greek Catholics. — 1 Bishop, 2 Priests, 1 Candle Officer, 1 Church 20 

Syrian Jacobites. — 1 Bishop, 2 Priests, 1 Nun, 1 Convent and Church — total . . 4 

Protestants. — 1 Bishop, 2 Priests, 5 Missionaries, &c — Aggregate Membership .... 250 

Total number of Christians 4518 



In addition to the above enumerated places of worship, all these sects have also chapels 
in the " Church of the Holy Sepulchre," as also have the Nestorians, the Maronites, and 
other denominations whose shrines are only occasionally used. The Latins and Greeks 
have also several thousand members in their various convents near the city, principally 
Arabs. 

Officers, Agents, Agencies, Statistics, &c, of the English Episcopal Society for Promoting Christianity 
amongst the Jews ; the Mission of the " Prussian Evangelical Church ;" and the Church Missionary 
Society; all co-operating in Jerusalem. 

First.— The Episcopal Society for Jews, &c. 

1 Lord Bishop (Sam'l Ang. Hierosol.), salary 

1 Chaplain, 300?.; Sexton, 401.; Sundries for Church, 28? 

4 Missionaries, Assistants, Scripture Reader, &c, 702?.; Schools for Jewish Children, 178?.; salary 
and expense of Architect, 281?. ; purchase, rent, and repairs of mission premises 

1 Bible and Tract Depository, 80?. (amount distributed unknown) 

Superintendent of House of Industry, 100?.; annual expense of sustaining the institution, inclu- 
sive of boarding, clothing, and three to eight piasters weekly pocket money to each inmate, 
345? 

Industrial Institute for Females.— 3 Teachers, 50 Jewesses (only partially reported) . 

Hospital. — Salaries and allowance of Physician, Surgeon, Dispenser, &c, 421?.; rents and pur- 
chases of leases, 202?.; Wages of Dragoman and servants, 104?.; Housekeeping, furniture, and 
clothing, 431?. ; Drugs and dispensary expenses, 70? 

Secretary and Treasurer 



£1455 
368 

1391 
80 



445 
129 



1230 
250 



Total . . . . . . . I . . . . £5328 

Hebrew College, now transferred to London, 700?. per annum; Consulate, 600? 1300 

Auxiliary Mission Branches at Nablous, Nazareth, Jaffa, and Safet, 130?. each ; House-rent at 

Hebron, 9? . . . . . . 529 



Annual Expenditure of the Special Funds.— Jewish Converts' Relief Fund, 140; Fund for Relief 



JERUSALEM — AS IT IS. 



589 



Missionary Report, &c. 



of Inquiring Jews (not reported) ; Fund for assisting to establish in business Inmates leaving 
the House of Industry (not reported); Fund for Widows and disabled Missionaries (not 

reported) 

Outfit for a Missionary, 100Z. ; allowance for voyage to or from London, 40/. to each member of 
the family. 

Property owned by the Mission. — Church and adjoining premises, with Consulate and other 
offices for Museum, Library, &c, 70,000Z. ; Cemetery, with School buildings and other houses 
attached, 450?.; Industrial buildings, 1000Z.; Botanic Garden, Machinery, Printing Establish- 
ment, &c. ? . . / . . . / *' ........ . 71,450 

In Contemplation. — A Farming Establishment, Episcopal Palace, Female Seminary, &c, &c. 

Property Rented. — Hospital and Dispensary Buildings, 150?. ; Bishop's Residence, 75Z. ; four or 
five houses, at 35Z. to 40Z. per annum, 170Z. ; several others for Depositories, <fec, 50Z. . . 445 

The Lyceum in connexion with the Anglican Consulate and Mission already contains the nucleus 
of a valuable Museum and Library; and, if conducted on less exclusive principles, might be 
productive of much good. 

Second. — Church Missionary Societt. 
1 Missionary, Assistant, Dragoman, Schools, &c. — 17 members ; total expense .... £700 

Third. — Lutheran Evangelical Department. 
1 Minister, 5 Deaconesses, 1 School, 25 German and 5 Arab Members, 600Z.; 1 large Hospice, 
100Z. per annum £700 

The Basle Missionary Society has also an establishment here, in which there are four or 
five lay missionaries, but its efforts are mainly of a secular character, and only as yet of 
indirect proselyting tendency. 

In the English Diocesan boarding school, which is under the management of five 
teachers, assisted by a steward and stewardess, there are sixty-two boys and girls, three or 
four of whom are Jews. The "Jewish Intelligencer" asserts, that "the community (wor- 
shipping in the English Hebrew Church on Mount Zion) consists of some two hundred 
members : some are Arabs, and others members of the Mission ; but there is also a goodly 
number of Hebrew Christian converts, and native Christians." The "Hebrew Christian 
converts" amount to fifty-two; of whom twenty-five are adults and twenty-seven children. 
The proselytes, from the native Arab Christians (under the care of the Church Missionary 
Society), number about seventeen ; and the remainder consist of the missionaries, their 
families, auxiliaries, and English and German servants, kc, together with the Lutherans. 
The total number of Jewish converts, from the beginning to the present time, amounts to 
ninety-nine. "Sixty-seven adult Jews (says the last Annual Report of the London Jews' 
Society, page 85), and thirty-two children, are, or have been, members of the congregation 
on Mount Zion. This number, however, includes some that have been baptized elsewhere, 
but subsequently settled here, and others that have been imported from other parts of the 
world to be educated and baptized here : and also those that have relapsed again into Juda- 
ism — of whom there have been some sad cases. These ninety-nine Jewish converts (the 
only legitimate object of the Mission's effort) havo been made at the cost of several thou- 
sand pounds per annum. The expenditure for Jerusalem during the past year was about 
forty thousand dollars — rating interest at only three per cent, on its property ; by the 
London Society alone, independently of the Church Missionary and Lutheran Societies, the 
cost of the consulate established for its protection, and exclusive also of various heavy 
items unreported — some idea of which may be had by reference to page 122, of last annual 
report — bearing in mind at the same time, that beside Miss Cook's legacy of sixty thousand 
pounds (much of which is devoted to this favorite mission), the regular annual contributions 
to this mammoth London Society range from twenty to thirty thousand pounds. 



590 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Missionary Report. 



Chronological Chart of the Operations of the London Jews' Society. 



PROMINENT FEATURES IN THE 
HISTORY OF THE SOCIETY. 



The London Society founded 

The "Jews' Chapel," Spitalflelds, 

opened for Lectures to the Jews 
A Printing-office established for 

Converts 

Ann. Sermon preached by Rev. C. 
Simeon 

April 7 — First stone laid of the 
Episcopal Jews' Chapel and He- 
brew Schools, Palestine Place, D7 
H. R. H. the Duke of Kent 

July 16.— Episcopal Jews' Chapel 
opened 

March 14. — The Society becomes a 
Church of England Society 

Sir Thos. Baring, Bt., becomes Pre- 
sident 

Rev. Lewis Way's donation of 
£10,000 

First issue of a Hebrew translation 
of the New Testament 

Bps. Ryder and Burgess become Pa- 
trons 



Journey of the Rev. L. Way to pre- 
pare the way for Missions abroad 

First Missionary sent abroad 

Temporal Relief discontinued as an 
object of the Society 

"Jews' Chapel," Spitalflelds, dis- 
posed of 

Hebr. Boys' School, Palestine Place, 
opened 



Hebrew Girls' School and Seminary 
opened 



First complete edition of the Hebr. 
Bible published 



Seminary discontinued 
Conferences with Jews in Alder- 
manbury 



Hebrew Translation of the Liturgy 
published 

Death of Bps. Burgess and Ryder ; 
and of the Rev. C. Simeon 

The Bishop of Ripon becomes Pa- 
tron 

The " Old Paths" published 
Divine Service in the Hebrew lan- 
guage commenced in the Episco- 
pal Jews' Chapel, on February 5 



MISSION 
COMMENCED. 



Holland 
Frankfurt-on- 
the Maine 



Posen 

Rhine District 
Strasburg and 

France 
Konigsberg 
Danzig 

Smyrna 
North Africa 
London 
Berlin 



Constantinople 



JERUSALEM MISSION. 



First Mission of Inquiry 
to Palestine 



Messrs. Fisk and Par- 
sons visit Jerusalem 
on behalf of the Ame- 
rican Board of Com- 
missioners for Fo- 
reign Missions 



Visit of the Rev. Lewis 
Way 

Dr. Dalton sent out to 
Jerusalem as Medical 
Missionary 

Rev. J. Nicolayson ar- 
rives, Dec. 31 

Dr. Dalton dies, Jan. 26 

Political events compel 
Mr. Nicolayson to 
leave 



Rev. J. Nicolayson 
turns 



Appeals issued for 
Hebrew Church 



COMMENCEMENT OF COTEMPO- 
RANEOUS LABOR IN THE 
CAUSE OF ISRAEL. 



Callenberg Institution at Halle 

(closed 1792) 
Missionaries of the Church of 

the United Brethren (until 

1764) 



American Society for Evangel- 
izing the Jews (afterwards 
"for Ameliorating the condi- 
tion of the Jews") 



Edinburgh Society for promot- 
ing Christianity among the 
Jews 

The American Board of Missions 
send Missionaries to the Jews 
in Palestine 

Society of Friends of Israel at 
Basle 

Ditto, Frankfurt- on-the-Maine 
Ditto, Brussels 



Berlin Society 
Elberfeld ditto 
Dresden ditto 



Toulouse Society 



Neuchate'. Society 
Strasburg ditto 



JERUSALEM — AS IT IS. 



591 



Missionary Report. 



Chronological Chart — continued. 



YEAR 
ending 
Mar. 31. 



1840 
1341 



1846 
1847 



1850 
1851 



PROMINENT FEATURES IN THE 
HISTORY OF THE SOCIETY. 



Revised edition of the Hebrew New 
Testament published 



Hebrew College established 
Death of the Rev. L. Way 
Archbishop of Canterbury becomes 

sole Patron 
Jerusalem Bishopric established 
Nov. 7. — Consecration of Bishop 

Alexander 



Special Temporal Relief Fund es- 
tablished 



Death of Sir Thomas Baring, Bart. 
Lord Ashley (Earl of Shaftesbury) 
becomes President 



Death of Miss Jane Cook, whose 
donations to the Society (includ- 
ing her last bequest) amounted to 
£60,000. 



MISSION 
COMMENCED. 



Safet 

Beyrout 

Sweden 



Bagdad 



Bucharest 
Salonica 



Breslau 
Jassy 

Adrianople 



JERUSALEM MISSION. 



Purchase of Mission 
premises effected, and 
first Medical Mission- 
ary sent out 



First Stone laid 'of 
Christ Church 



Jan. 21. — Arrival of the 
first Protest'nt Bishop 



College established 
(closed 1847) 



Hospital opened Dec. 12 



Arrival of Bish'p Gobat, 
Dec. 23 

Turkish subjects declar- 
ed free to change 
their religion 

House of Industry open- 
ed, Dec. 21 

Consecration of Christ 
Church, Jan. 21 

First Annual Confer- 
ence of the Palestine 
Mission, Dec. 1851 



COMMENCEMENT OF COTEMPO- 
RANEOUS LABOR IN THE 
CAUSE OF ISRAEL. 



The General Assembly of the 
Church of Scotland send a 
Deputation to inquire into the 
state of the Jews ; and estab- 
lish Missions in consequence 



Bremerlehe Society 



British Society for the Propa- 
gation of the Gospel among 
the Jews 

Free Church of Scotland Mis- 
sions 

Presbyterian Church of Ireland 
ditto 

Rhenish Westphalian Society 
Netherlands Society (Amster- 
dam) 

[Church of England Young 
Men's Society] 

Society at Frankfort-on-thc- 
Oder, for Proselytes 

The Glasgow Christian Society 
on behalf of the Jews (after- 
wards " Scottish Society for 
the Conversion of Israel") 

Stavauger (Norway) Society 



Mission of Am. Chn. Missionary 
Society established at Jerusa 
lem 



The accompanying synoptical view of missionary effort in 
behalf of the Jews in general, and of those at Jerusalem in par- 
ticular, will sufficiently evince the interest now felt on this subject 
by various Christian communities. It is extracted from the " Report" 
of the "London J cats' Society." 

How handsomely the Jerusalem station of this colossal missionary 
corporation is endowed with available funds, as well as with other 
ways and means, will also abundantly appear from the appended 
statement, taken also from the report above. 



By Fund towards Stipend of Minister of Christ Ch., Jerusalem, Stock £8500 £8289 6 3 

" Fund towards repairs of Church at Jerusalem, Stock £1000 975 4 5 

" Fund for Circulation of Scriptures in Palestine, Stock £2000 .... 1950 8 11 



592 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Missionary Report. 



By Fund for House of Industry at Jerusalem, Stock £2 000 £9752 4 4 

" Fund for assisting to establish in business Inmates leaving the House of 

Industry at Jerusalem, Stock £200 195 1 1 

" Fund towards salary of the Apothecary to the Hospital, Jerusalem, 

Stock £2000 1950 8 11 

u Fund for the relief of Inquiring Jews, or Infirm or Aged Converts at 

Jerusalem, Stock £4000 3900 17 9 

" Fund for Widows and disabled Missionaries, Stock £15000 1462S 5 11 

'• General Fund, as per account 5904 4 2 

" Fund for Relief of Jewish Converts, at Jerusalem 169 10 

" Fund for Relief of Inquiring Jews, &c, do 300 

" Fund for assisting to establish in business Inmates leaving the House of 

Industry at Jerusalem 900 

" Reserve Fund 100 

" Suspense account for sundry drafts of Committee charged to account of 

1851-52, but not paid 3411 16 5 

" Bills payable under acceptance 1711 19 5 



In real estate possessions it is still more richly beneficed. Its 
splendid church edifice, the Anglican Cathedral — called at first 
" Church of St. James," but now known as " Christ Church," is 
said to have cost — inclusive of the Consular Residence attached — 
several hundred thousand dollars, though only containing sittings for 
two hundred persons. It must be remembered, however, that it was 
built in "troublous times," and under most disadvantageous cir- 
cumstances. 

The general principles upon which the Mission was designed to 
be conducted, will sufficiently appear from the following manifesto 
of the Archbishop of Canterbury to his brethren — " their Holi- 
nesses" of the Oriental Apostolic Churches ! 

To the Most Reverend our Brothers in Christ, the Prelates and Bishops of the Ancient and 
Apostolic Churches in Syria and the Countries Adjacent, Greeting in the Lord. 
We William by Divine Providence Archbishop of Canterbury, Primate of all England 
and Metropolitan, most earnestly commend to your brotherly love the Right Reverend 
Michael Soloman Alexander, whom we, being well assured of his learning and piety, have 
consecrated to the office of a Bishop of the United Church of England and Ireland according 
to the ordinances of our Holy and Apostolic Church, and having obtained the consent of 
our Sovereign Lady the Queen, have sent out to Jerusalem with Authority to exercise 
spiritual jurisdiction over the Clergy and Congregations of our Church, which are now, or 
which hereafter may be, established in the countries above mentioned. And in order to 



JERUSALEM — AS IT IS. 



593 



Missionary Report. 

prevent any misunderstanding in regard to this our purpose, we think it right to make 
known to you that we have charged the said Bishop our Brother, not to intermeddle in 
any way with the jurisdiction of the Prelates or other ecclesiastical dignitaries bearing rulo 
in the Churches of the East, but to show them due reverence and honor, and to be ready 
on all occasions, and by all the means in his power, to promote a mutual interchange of 
respect, courtesy, and kindness. We have good reason to believe that our Brother is willing, 
and will feel himself in conscience bound, to follow these our instructions ; and we beseech 
you in the name of our Lord Jesus Christ to receive him as a Brother, and to assist him, as 
opportunity may offer, with your good offices. 

We trust that Your Holinesses will accept this communication as a testimony of our respect 
and affection, and of our hearty desire to secure that amicable intercourse with the ancient 
Churches of the East, which has been suspended for ages, and which, if restored, may have 
the effect, with the blessing of God, of putting an end to the divisions which have brought 
the most grievous calamities on the Church of Christ. 

In this hope and with sentiments of the highest respect for your Holinesses, we have affixed 
our Archiepiscopal seal to this letter, written with our own hand at our palace of Lambeth, 
on the twenty-third day of November, in the year of our Lord one thousand eight hundred 
and forty-one. 

W. Cantuar. [l. s.] 

Signed and sealed in the presence of 
Chris : Hodgson, 
Secretary to the Archbishop. 

The Lutheran Church sought an alliance with the English in con- 
ducting missionary operations in Jerusalem, at an early period of 
its history ; and still maintains a cold and formal co-operation — in a 
kind of politico-ecclesiastical relationship. This singular copartnery 
was secured through the zealous efforts of the great Chevalier Bunsen, 
special envoy of the king of Prussia to the court of St. James ; who 
was instructed by his majesty to ascertain " In how far the English 
National Church, already in possession of a parsonage on the Mount 
Zion, and having commenced there the building of a church, would 
be inclined to accord to the Evangelical National Church of Prussia 
a sisterly position in the Holy Land." His royal overtures of " aid 
and comfort" were received — as may readily be supposed — as gra- 
ciously as offered. Amongst many other marks of the special favor 
by which Frederic William manifested his interest in behalf of the 
Mission, was the donation of $75,000 in aid of the Jerusalem 
oishopric. And all the consideration for which he stipulated in 
return for his munificent contributions, was the occasional use of the 
38 



694 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Other Missions. Jewish ecclesiastics. 

Cathedral when not occupied bj the English ; together with the 
right to alternate with Queen Victoria in the appointment of the 
incumbent of the See; who, by-the-bye, must always be an English- 
man, by hook or by crook, before he can wear the mitre of Zion, 
and claim spiritual jurisdiction over Palestine, Syria, Chaldea, 
Egypt, and Abyssinia — his diocesan province ! 

The branch of the Church Missionary Society at Jerusalem, it is 
understood, is designed to supply a very serious deficiency in the 
modus operandi of the London Jews' Society — its efforts being 
directed exclusively to the Gentile population of the city ; and is 
entirely under the control of the Anglican Bishop. 

The Presbyterian Mission, faithfully conducted for some years at 
Jerusalem under the auspices of the American Board of Commis- 
sioners for Foreign Missions, by an able band of devoted mission- 
aries, was discontinued in 1844, and transferred to Beirut. 

The Sabbatarian Baptists have also made some proselyting efforts 
at the Holy City ; but with what success is not known. 

The present condition of the Jews of Jerusalem is precisely what 
it is represented to have been by Hanani, when Nehemiah attempted 
its restoration — *< The remnant that are left of the captivity, there 
in the province, are in great affliction and reproach ;" and their case 
is well calculated to produce upon us the same effect it did upon the 
pious old Reformer, when he " sat down and mourned and wept 
certain days, and fasted and prayed before the God of heaven." 
But alas ! how few there are that " sigh and cry for all the abomina- 
tions that be done in the midst thereof! Who shall have pity upon 
thee, Jerusalem ? Or who shall bemoan thee ; or who shall go 
aside to ask how doest thou?" 

The Jews of Palestine are all under the spiritual domination of a 
Chief Rabbi, called OhacJcam Bashi, « the first in Zion," who is 
assisted by a special council of seven leading Rabbis, and a large 
number of Sub-Rabbis. They exercise also a domineering temporal 
authority ; and a more despotic government, in certain respects, 
scarcely exists this side the regions of Dahomey. 



JERUSALEM — AS I T I S. 595 

Phylacteries. Worship, feasts, &c. 

It is no wonder that these down-trodden outcasts of Israel are 
poor, illiterate, and bigoted, for they are almost entirely disfran- 
chised and constantly maltreated, not only by their Turkish masters, 
but by those styling themselves Christians and philanthropists. 
Even in this year of grace 1857, it would cost any Jew in Jeru- 
salem his life to venture into the so-called Church of the Holy 
Sepulchre, or within even the Outer Court of his beloved Temple. 
They are principally maintained here by the contributions of their 
brethren abroad — and whether lazy or not (as charged upon them), 
are certainly very idle. But even though the Jews were ever so 
industrious, and could obtain constant employment, they could barely 
procure a livelihood — so many are the sacred rabbinical days, upon 
which they are compelled to abstain from labor ; and in this matter 
both Mussulmans and Christians seem to emulate them. The gate 
or door of every Jew, whatever else he may lack, is always supplied 
with the phylactery, enclosed in a tin case, as an amulet and anti- 
dote to all ill. Poor Israel is truly in an evil case ; but distressing 
as their physical condition is, their spiritual and mental state is far 
worse. It were enough to swell the bosom of a brazen statue with 
indignation, and draw the tear of pity from the eye of the cold 
marble, to witness the grinding oppression under which they groan, 
body, soul, and spirit. 

The portion of the Temple wall approached by a narrow lane 
through the Mogrebin Quarter, is esteemed the most sacred of all 
places to which they have access, on account of its vicinity to the 
site of the Holy of Holies, and there they repair every Friday — 
indeed in greater or less numbers every day — and weep and pray for 
the advent of the Messiah. And yet, to get so drunk at the feast 
of Purim, as to be unable to distinguish between " blessing Mor- 
decai and cursing Haman," is an injunction of the Talmud which, 
though so much "more honored in the breach than the observance 
thereof," is very generally observed by men, women, and children ! 
"While their services at the Wailing Place are affecting, even unto 
tears, and are evidently from the heart, those of the Synagogue 



596 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Mosks. The Muezzim's cry. 

are mere empty, formal lip-service. Poor Judah ! not only the 
sceptre, but the Urim and Thummim have long since departed from 
thee, and Ichabod is everywhere emblazoned on thy once fair 
escutcheon ! 

With the exception of some of the Mosks around the Haram es- 
Sherif, the Moslem houses of worship are very plain, unless of 
Christian origin, and even then the painting and sculpture are gene- 
rally concealed by plaster or whitewash. But whatever else they 
may lack, they are always supplied with abundance of matting, a 
large movable kind of platform, for the reading of prayers, and the 
indispensable Kebla, or niche in the south wall, as a spiritual mag- 
net to pioneer the orisons of the Faithful to the Paradisaical Mecca. 
As Mussulmans never pray " except they wash," a supply of water 
is indispensably requisite, and a praying-place of some sort is an 
almost universal accompaniment of every fountain and pool — There 
is no Mosk without its minaret from whose lofty spire the hum 
drum, drawling Muezzim five times a day calls the faithful devo- 
tees of Islamism to prayer. 

Allah hoo achkbar — Allah hoo achkbah, 

00 Ishad la ilia il Allah, oo ishad la ilia il Allah 

00 inno Mohomed el-Resul Allah. 

God is greater — God is greater ; 

And bear testimony to one God — and bear testimony to one 
God; . 

And testify that Mohammed is the Prophet of God. 
Five times a day is this summons repeated — at mid-day, in the 
afternoon, at sunset, after dark, and, with this addition, at day- 
break — 

Es Salat ophdel min en-nom 

Es Sullah koom wa Khedden es-Salat. 

Prayer is better than sleep — rise up and offer prayers. 
In common with all religionists of the East, the Mohammedans 
observe a great number of feasts, fasts, and other solemn rites. 
During the month of Rhamadan they fast so rigidly that no good 



JERUSALEM — AS I T I S. 597 

Fasting and feasting. Moslem piety. 

Mussulman suffers any food or drink to enter his mouth from day- 
break till after sunset, during each day of the whole moon. And 
yet it is notoriously and emphatically a month of feasting and 
revelry — sleeping all day and frolicking all night ! But, not satis- 
fied with this, at the end of the sacred month they observe a special 
feast of three days, called "Beiram," in which each tries to excel 
the other in gluttony. Sickness, as may well be imagined, is more 
rife at this time than during any other period of the year, whether 
Rhamadan occur in summer or in winter. Amongst many other 
foolish acts of fanatical superstition performed on such occasions, 
scores of the most pious and zealous Moslems prostrate themselves 
in the street, supine, for the purpose of being ridden over by some 
dignitary of the " Faithful" — and unfortunate indeed is he on whom 
the horse treads not. No one, they affirm, has ever been known to 
die, or even suffer any serious inconvenience, from submitting to this 
Juggernautic ceremony. The church and state are so intimately 
combined that it is quite difficult to distinguish the Mohammedan 
ecclesiastic from the civil and military officer ; but it would appear 
that the Sheikhs or Imaums, and Dervishes comprise the two main 
orders of the clergy. 

So much do good Mussulmans dread anything unclean, that they 
are as much afraid of coming in contact with a dog as with a " Mus- 
coob" (Russian) ! They are so conscientiously scrupulous, that they 
never drop the least crumb of bread without asking God to forgive 
them. And the application of a crumb of bread to the erasure of 
pencil-marks from paper, they regard with a kind of holy horror. 
On gaping or sneezing, they invariably thank the Lord that Shatan 
(Satan) didn't jump down their throats ! To kill a chicken without 
devoutly exclaiming "Allah acbar" (God is great) ! were an iniquity 
to be punished by the judges. And the same pious ejaculation 
escapes upon the occurrence of the most trivial circumstance. 
Indeed, they rarely ever leave the room without thus " taking the 
name of the Lord in vain." The same may be said of the Jews, 
with slight variation. Of all the exhibitions of wild religious fana- 



698 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



State of society. 

ticism that I have ever witnessed, the services set forth occasionally 
at night on the minarets by the dervishes, are the most extravagant. 
One is forcibly reminded of the Tishbite's in-season-and-out-of-sea- 
son, timous and ill-timed jestings with Jezebel's ecumenical council 
of her state church — so vociferous and frantic do they appear — and 
can scarce refrain from inquiring, if Mohammed is » asleep or gone 
a hunting!" To curse a Jew or Christian seems to be regarded 
rather as an act of devotion than as a sin, or even impropriety. 
And the vindictiveness and comprehensiveness of their maledictions 
— extending, as they do, not only to all the members of your per- 
son, but to your progenitors and descendants — however astonishing, 
is easily understood when it is remembered that this pious kind of 
malediction is systematically taught the children from early infancy 
by every religious family ! 

The most revolting of the abominations and iniquities enumerated 
in the 1st chapter of Romans, are committed unblushingly ; and, 
with the exception of murder, almost with impunity. 

" Judgment is turned away backward, and justice standeth afar 
off ; for truth is fallen in the streets, and equity cannot enter. 
Yea, truth faileth ; and he that departeth from evil maketh him- 
self a prey." * * * « Run ye to and fro through the streets of 
Jerusalem, and see now and know, and seek in the broad places 
thereof, if ye can find a man, if there be any that executeth judg- 
ment, that seeketh the truth, and I will pardon it." * * * "Woe 
unto thee, Jerusalem ! Wilt thou not be made clean ? When 
shall it once be !" 

This being a true picture of the present moral condition of Jeru- 
salem, it is not very surprising — however much to be deplored — that 
the result of Protestant missionary effort has not been more cheering. 
But Moslem opposition, it is confidently believed, is now at an end 
— indeed, the impression is almost universal among themselves that 
the days of Islamism are numbered — at least for the present. Some 
there are, however, and they are much to be dreaded for their 
ungovernable fanaticism, that still seem to think "the Faithful" 



JERUSALEM — AS IT IS. 599 
Government of the city. 

are invincible. But when we remember the imbecile state of the 
Ottoman Empire, we can but be reminded of the declaration of the 
Latins — " Quern Deus vult perdere prius dementat" Mussulman 
views of destiny can but prove as certainly paralyzing under the 
waning moon, as they were irresistibly stimulating under its crescent 
phases. It is now far too late in the day for Moslem prestige to 
avail, as in days of yore ! 

Jerusalem was under the Pashalic of Damascus until quite 
recently, when all at once Palestine was promoted to the dignity 
of a separate Pashalic. The Pasha of Jerusalem (or Basha* as he 
is universally called in Syria) is sent directly from Constantinople, 
and is permitted to remain in office until — at the usual rate of 
extortion — he is supposed to have had opportunity of sufficiently 
indemnifying himself for his outlay in farming it of the Sultan. 
And this he soon accomplishes. 

The Basha is assisted in the administration of justice by the 
Divan Effendi, Cadi, &c. The Mejlis or Congress of the Holy City 
can scarcely be called a legislative body, though its functions are 
altogether of that character as far as they go. One delegate is now 
permitted to represent the interests of Christianity ! and the Jews 
are assigned another ! ! But it would appear that the Arab popu- 
lation are entirely unrepresented except so far as they can operate 
through buckshishes — which, however, are omnipotent, should they 
have enough of the wherewithal. 

Justice, if to be had at all, is administered in a very primitive 
and summary manner ; and the government is excessively despotic. 

The military establishment is under the control of the Kaim 
Makam or Beem Basha, the military governor — an object of no 
little dread at all times ; but particularly during periods of con- 
scription. The most heart-rending scene I ever witnessed was the 
parting of these poor conscripts from their parents, wives, and 



* We borrow our orthography of the word ary is never called Pasha — there being no 
from the Persians : for in Syria this function- such letter as P in the Arabic alphabet. 



600 



CITY OF THE 



GREAT KING. 



Consular establishments. 

children — to be sent they know not where — and to return they 
know not when — if ever. Revolting as is the thought of parental 
affection maiming its own offspring, it is yet not much to be won- 
dered at that the mother so often puts out the eye of her own 
darling son, or chops off a finger from his right hand, in order to 
exempt him from the horrors of the conscription ! This humane 
policy is not, however, as prevalent as it was before the Viceroy of 
Egypt discovered that a soldier minus his right eye and index 
finger, can still be made available in destroying his fellow-crea- 
tures ! 

Although there have been for many years various vice-consular 
agencies in Jerusalem, conducted mainly by natives, yet it was not 
until 1843 that Jerusalem had so far recovered from her insignifi- 
cance in the eyes of the nations, that regular Consulates were esta- 
blished and supported. In that year France, Prussia, and Sardinia 
deputed regular salaried Consuls to take up their permanent abode 
in the Holy City. 

The Austrian Consulate was established five or six years after- 
wards. Great Britain had then only a Vice-Consul ; but has ever 
since that time been fully represented by a well-sustained Con- 
sulate. 

The Spanish Consul was appointed in 1853. But the United 
States of America was not represented by any regular Consul until 
1856 — consular functions having been regularly and nobly dis- 
charged by the excellent Murad family for more than thirty years 
— whose faithful services — be it confessed with shame — have never 
yet received any remuneration whatever from government. 

The Consuls at Jerusalem are not only much respected, but 
greatly feared ; and, indeed, may be said to exercise an all-control- 
ling influence, when they can be brought to co-operate ; but, owing 
probably to the peculiarity of their situation, they are too often in 
a state of hostility to each other, for any union of action whatever. 

As far as his own subjects are concerned, a Consul is, virtually, 
" King in Jeshurun," and plays the despot with perfect impunity; 



JERUSALEM — AS IT IS. 601 
Abuse of consular authority. Extract from Dr. Durbin. 

hence the importance of exercising great care and circumspection 
in consular appointments. It is by no means an uncommon occur- 
rence for a Consul to deprive a subject of his passport (which, in 
that country, is not only to disfranchise him, but to expose him to 
every species of insult and injury, without the possibility of redress), 
simply because he has changed his religion. 

I have seen a Protestant Consul hand over a respectable subject 
to the tender mercies of his janissaries for imprisonment, simply 
because he had agreed to assist in teaching a Protestant school. 
And to arrest a subject and send him out of the country for the 
most trivial offence, is a high-handed measure, not unfrequently 
adopted. But that such abuse of consular power will be effectually 
rebuked when made known to the various powers thus misrepre- 
sented, there cannot be a shadow of doubt. 

But as far as Moslem rule is concerned in its exercise toward 
Christians, Jerusalem is no longer trodden down of the Gentiles. 
Nor can the least doubt be entertained as to the early enfranchise- 
ment and complete enlargement of the Jews. A better day has 
already dawned upon Zion. 

Dr. Durbin, in speaking of the English Mission and Consulate at 
Jerusalem, makes the following very just remarks : — 

" But the prospective political bearing of this Hebrew diocese is perhaps a matter of much 
greater interest than its immediate religious results. It is doubtless intimately connected 
with the restoration of the Jewish commonwealth in Palestine, chiefly under the auspices 
of England and Prussia. It is not to be affirmed that these governments instituted this 
measure with the sole, or even chief intent to accomplish this great prophetic event; yet 
without doubt they looked to the state of the Jewish and Christian mind, which these pro- 
phecies have produced with regard to the restoration, as a material, perhaps an essential 
element in their success. That the measure is considered by the five great powers as hav- 
ing an important political bearing, is evident from the fact that, since the organization of 
the diocese, France, Russia, and Austria have sent their consuls to Jerusalem, where there 
is neither trade nor commerce to be encouraged or protected. At this hour, the consular 
representatives of the five great guardians of Europe and the East are established in the 
Holy City, without any employment or object apparent to the public. 

" The man may now be living who will see Jerusalem divide with Constantinople the dis- 
cussions of the representatives of the nations for the settlement of the Eastern Question. 



602 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Extract from Dr. Durbin. 

Its solution involves the fall of Turkey, the extinction of Mohammedanism, the restoration 
of the Jewish commonwealth, and the triumph of Christianity. 

"In farther support of the opinion that the Hebrew diocese of St. James, at Jerusalem, 
has a deep hidden political bearing, I will assume the generally conceded fact, that the 
Turkish Empire is approaching its fall. It lies between Europe and the vast population and 
wealth beyond the Euphrates. The possession of its territories by any of the five great 
powers will destroy the political balance in Europe, and draw after it the control of India, 
China — indeed the whole Eastern world. The momentous question is, when the decayed 
fabric of the Moslem Empire shall fall to pieces, who shall possess its various parts? They 
must be occupied by new Christian states, or divided and appropriated by the five great 
powers. Their disposition is the great Eastern Question — perhaps the greatest political 
question of modern times — and its solution will quickly devolve on the Christian powers. 
For this they are preparing. They have long been gathered together at Constantinople, 
and have recently assembled at Jerusalem, as eagles gather where the carcass is. Each is 
augmenting its interest on the soil where the great question is to be solved. Austria, by 
means of the proximity of her territory, has influence in European Turkey, and access to its 
provinces. Russia has obtained a similar and even greater influence by like causes, and by 
her connexion with the large, influential, and wealthy population of the Greek Church, which 
is under her protection and in her interest throughout the empire. In Syria alone this 
population amounts to 350,000. France bears the same relation to the Roman Catholic 
population throughout the empire, which, with the Maronites of Mount Lebanon, amounts, 
iu Syria alone, to 260,000. To these two communions add the thousands of Armenian 
Christians found in the principal towns, and it will appear that one-third of the population 
in Syria is Christian, and this, too, by far the most intelligent, wealthy, and active, and is 
increasing yearly. Prussia is too far distant, and being Protestant, has no interest on the 
soil in Syria ; she therefore combines with England, whose influence lies in the weight of 
her name, and in the presence of her navy in the Levant. She has no population on the 
soil in her interest. The object of England and Prussia combined is to create such a popu- 
lation in their interest as a counterbalance to the great and growing Christian populations 
in the interests of Russia and France. England wants this population in Syria, which com- 
prehends Palestine, because the possession or control of Syria will give her great commercial 
advantages and uninterrupted access to Persia, India, and the East. Considering the num- 
bers and wealth of the despised Jews; the prophetic assurances of their return; their univer- 
sal disposition to return at almost any hazard or sacrifice ; and the influence of these fact? 
on the common Christian mind, it was as natural as it was wise and good in England to 
seek to avail herself of all these influences to assemble a population in Palestine in her 
own interest, and take the great event so intimately connected with the regeneration of the 
world, under her immediate patronage and protection. When the time has come for the 
swoop of the eagles on the carcass, the predominant effect of a large Jewish population in 
Palestine in the interest of England will not be problematical with respect to the destina- 
tion of Syria. The Jewish commonwealth will appear again under the protection of Eng- 
land, for which advantage compensation may be given to Austria in Bosnia and Servia, to 
Russia in Moldavia and Wallachia, perhaps at Constantinople, and to France in Egypt, to 
consolidate her African possessions." 



JERUSALEM — AS IT IS. 



003 



Extract from Dr. Tyng. 



The Rev. Dr. Tyng thus concludes one of his late letters from 
the Holy City :— 



" The past of Jerusalem is overflowing with thought. But the future is equally impres- 
sive. These ruins are not always to remain. The future Temple, and the restored Israel, 
when 'Jerusalem shall be the throne of the Lord to all nations,' claim the most earnest 
thought. The day when ' the feet' of the Lord 4 shall stand on the Mount of Olives, which 
is over against Jerusalem towards the east,' is full of importance ; and whether we look back 
or forward, we have to speak of Zion as ' the joy of the whole earth,' for ' salvation is of the 
Jews.' The present missionary work in Jerusalem is deeply interesting. Now, what an 
accumulation of thought do all these facts and scenes prepare ! I shall not attempt to enter 
into every particular scene j you must imagine for yourself. But surely there is no spot on 
earth like Jerusalem." 





" 1 





VATXEV OP JEHOSHAPHAT. 



CHAPTER XXL 



JERUSALEM— AS IT IS TO BE. 
" Glorious things are spoken of thee, City of God V 
MILLENNIAL JERUSALEM. 

Mene, mene, teTcel upharsin, was the terrific verdict denounced 
alike against the empire of the Chaldees, its haughty monarch, and 
its mighty capital, " the heauty of the Chaldees' excellency ;" and 
upon many a splendid city of antiquity has " Ichabod" been written : 
but of Jerusalem, Jehovah says, " I have graven thee upon the 
palms of my hands : thy walls are continually before me : I will 
make thee an eternal excellency." We accordingly find that 
however often doomed to utter destruction by her merciless spoilers 
and subverters, phoenix-like, she has always risen from her ashes 
in due time. For the same Almighty Being that not only suffered 
these chastisements to be inflicted upon the Holy City, but declares 
in judgment for her sins — « I will make Jerusalem heaps and a den 
of dragons — Zion shall be ploughed like a field, and Jerusalem shall 
become heaps, and the mountain of the House like the high places 
of the forest," also declares in fulfilment of his inscrutable decrees, 
" because they call thee an outcast — saying, This is Zion, whom no 
man seeketh after, behold, I will bring again the captivity of 



JERUSALEM — AS IT IS TO BE. 



605 



The city restored and enlarged. 

Jacob's tents, and have mercy on his dwelling-places, and the city 
shall be builded upon her own heap, and the palace shall remain 
after the manner thereof" — "it shall not be plucked up nor thrown 
down for ever." 

It is strongly intimated in this comprehensive promise, that the 
city would not only be fully restored, but be built up according to 
her ancient land-marks. And that such a reedification was literally 
accomplished under those great reformers and restorers, Ezra, 
Zerubbabel, and Nehemiah, we have abundant evidence in the 
memoirs of the admirable Tirshatha, and the zealous Scribe. But 
the same Divine Being who so graciously promised its restoration, 
is pledged also for its enlargement beyond its ancient boundaries. 
And to any one at all acquainted with the history of Jerusalem 
and the topography of the city and its environs, the truth of this 
declaration will abundantly appear from the following explanatory 
paraphrase of the prophetic text recorded Jer. xxxi. 38-40 : — 



38. Behold, the days come, 38. Behold, the days come, saith the Lord, after the expi- 
saith the Lord, that the city ration of the seventy years' captivity, that the city shall be 
shall be builded to the Lord built to the Lord, not only on its most impregnable founda- 
from the Tower of Hannaneel tions {in the southern quarter), but also the less defensible 
to the gate of the corner. wall on the north — from the Tower of Hannaneel even to the 

gate of the corner — that portion of it most completely in 
ruins— from the most eastern point even to the westernmost — 
whence southward the fortifications are strong — so as to occupy 
all the site heretofore enclosed. 

39. And the measuring line 39. And not only so, but the measuring line shall go forth 
shall yet go forth over against yet further over against it {the former northern boundary), 
it, upon the Hill Gareb, and upon the Hill Gareb, and shall compass about on that ridga 
shall compass about to Goath. and the rising ground that separates the Kedron Valley from 

the land around the north-east part of the city, commencing 
at the north-west corner of Zion and encircling a large dis- 
trict, even around to Goath, or Golgotha {a place of a skull) — 
that head of land that juts out into the Valley of Kedron, near 
Gethsemane, like a cape into the sea. 

40. And the whole valley 40. And this extended wall shall embrace in its north-east 
of the dead bodies and of the portion the whole valley of ashes and dead bodies, as well 
ashes, and all the fields unto as on the included portions of the sepulchral declivities o ' 
the Brook of Kedron, unto the Kedron ; and all the fields or vineyards even unto the corner 
corner of the Horse Gate, to- of the Horse Gate toward the east, shall be holy unto the 



606 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



The present boundary of the city enclosed within the Millennial confines. 

ward the east, shall be holy Lord; and it (the city — at least under its original dimen- 
unto the Lord; it shall not be sions) shall not be plucked up nor thrown down any more 
plucked up nor thrown down . for ever, during the present age (though it may be repaired 
any more for ever. and beautified), but shall remain throughout the whole mil- 

lennial age, in one position or another. 

And to this permanence and prosperity of the Holy City through- 
out the Millennium, Zechariah also abundantly testifies in the last 
chapter of his prophecy — 10th verse. " And it shall be lifted up 
and inhabited in her place, from Benjamin's Gate unto the place 
of the First Gate, unto the Corner Gate ; and from the Tower of 
Hannaneel unto the King's Wine Press." The land-marks here 
indicated seem expressly designed to mark out the ancient capital 
of the Jewish kings, and purposely to exclude much of Coenopolis — 
the large addition made by the apostate Jews under Agrippa :— 
and not without special reason, for Jerusalem is yet to be surrounded 
by another enclosure, whose prescribed limits, of course, the city 
bounds must not transcend — a fact most significantly indicative of 
long-premeditated design and superintending providence. This wall 
of the sanctuary — seen in vision by Ezekiel — is a square of five 
hundred reeds, or rather more than a mile on each side, around 
which extends a narrow suburban strip thirty yards in width. If 
the southern boundary of this square be located so as to coincide 
with the southern limits of the ancient city, and the western line 
adapted to the western limits as closely as it can well be, there will 
be a considerable vacant surplus on the east and north of the city ; 
and the Temple area will fall about the centre of the enclosure- — 
in accordance with the intimation conveyed by the prophet in his 
description of the Holy City and vicinity. (Ezek. 45th chapter.) 
This extension of the bounds of the city will render its area rather 
greater than any phasis under which it has heretofore existed : and 
with this enlargement on the north and east, still more completely 
will " the whole valley of the dead bodies and of the ashes, and all 
the fields unto the Brook Kedron, unto the corner of the Horse 
Gate toward the east, be holy unto the Lord." 



JERUSALEM 



— AS IT IS TO BE. 



607 



The Millennial Temple accommodated to the present site. 

Whilst the Temple seen in vision by Ezekiel — so far at least as 
its details are given — bears a general resemblance to that of Solo- 
mon and the later structure erected by Zerubbabel and repaired by 
Herod, according to the accounts of Josephus and of the Talmud, 
it is yet not designed after either. In order to locate this Temple 
and the surrounding "sanctuary" within the compass of Moriah's 
surface, it has been seriously proposed to change the text and sub- 
stitute cubits for reeds in some passages, after the example of the 
Seventy, who took the liberty of making such an alteration, no 
doubt under the impression — however ill-founded — that the prophet 
was describing the fashion of the Temple to be erected on the 
restoration of the Jews after the seventy years' captivity. But, as 
Dr. Scott well observes, " if men allow themselves to substitute one 
word for another in the sacred text, because the alteration would 
render that consistent with their systems which otherwise would be 
incompatible with them, there is no knowing to what lengths they 
may proceed. Surely it is better to acknowledge our ignorance on 
such abstruse subjects, than to support a favorite scheme of inter- 
pretation by giving countenance to so dangerous a measure." — A 
sentiment surely worthy of all acceptation ; and especially in refer- 
ence to the portion of Scripture now under consideration, which has 
always been esteemed by the Rabbins so abstruse and difficult of 
exposition in some respects : yet, the adaptation of the Temple 
and courts described by Ezekiel to the Temple Mount at least, is 
attended with no special difficulty — and certainly requires no such 
reduction as that proposed. The area of Mount Moriah is abun- 
dantly adequate to the accommodation of the projected Temple and 
all its courts. And there is certainly no kind of objection to the 
enclosure of the whole city within the five hundred reeds quadri- 
lateral, constituting the boundary between the sanctuary and the pro- 
fane place — provided, at least, that it be remodelled and inhabited 
only by the Prince, the Priests, Levites, &c, in attendance on the 
Temple service. 

But while the exterior enclosure of the sanctuary described by 



608 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Sanctuary and Holy Oblation. 

Ezekiel is so much more extended than those of the former Tem- 
ples, the sacred fane itself, as well as the other corresponding struc- 
tures, is but slightly larger. Their respective dimensions indeed 
are generally identical as far as recorded ; but it must be remem- 
bered that the cubit used by "the man" in measuring Ezekiel's 
Temple is the "greater cubit" — being 21.648 inches in length, 
while the measurements of the other Temples were given in the 
" common cubit" of eighteen inches — shorter than the former by a 
hand-breadth, which is rated at nearly four inches. (Ezek. xl. 5, 
and xliii. 13.) And besides this discrepancy in size, there is also 
a considerable dissimilarity in the internal arrangements. In the 
former Temple there were four courts — that of the Priests, that of 
Israel, that of the Women, and that of the Gentiles : whereas in the 
Ezekiel Temple there are only two mentioned — the Inner and the 
Outer or "Utter court." But there are many points of difference 
between the Ezekiel or Millennial Temple, and the old Jewish Tem- 
ple in any of its former phases — all going to show a modified ritual 
adapted to the Millennial age. 

That this Temple is not to be erected before the final advent of 
the Messiah is obvious from the declaration of the Lord by Zecha- 
riah (vi. 12), " Behold the Man whose name is the Branch ; and 
he shall grow up out of his place, and He shall build the Temple of 
the Lord." 

The Temple and courts are described by the prophet as being in 
the midst of a square plat called the " Sanctuary ;" surrounded by 
a wall five hundred cubits long on each side, situated in the midst 
of the " Holy Oblation," a special reservation of territory about 
fifty-one miles in length and twenty and a half in breadth, which is 
assigned to the priests as their place of residence. Contiguous to 
this "possession of the priests," is that of the Levites, of the same 
dimensions — lying immediately on the north ; and to the south lies 
the " possession of the city," the same in length, but only half the 
breadth of the two other portions, called also the " profane place, 
for the city for dwelling and for suburbs for them that serve the 




MILLENNIAL DIVISION OF THE HOLY LAND. 



JERUSALEM — AS IT IS TO BE. 611 



Locality of the Holy Oblation. 



ft? 

f 

. Joppa. 



A 



s 



25.000 Reeds = 51£ Miles. 



Possession of the Levites. 



• Shiloh. 



ft Bethel. 



Possession of the Priests. 



Sanctuary. 

D Jerusalem. 



.Geba. „ Beth-haccerem. 



Possession of 



Hebron, 



Yehovah-Shammah 
City. 



the City. 




• Rimmon. 



THE HOLY OBLATION. (See Ezekiel, xl.— xlviii.) 



city." This great city — Yehovah Shammah — is a square of ten and 
a fourth miles on each side, inclusive of its suburbs half a mile 
wide, and occupies the exact middle of this last portion. 

It is thus seen that these three portions united form a rectangular 
quadrangle of fifty-one miles on each side, quadrating with the cardi- 



612 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Locality of the Holy Oblation. 

nal points of the compass, which being protracted upon the map of 
Palestine, will be found to occupy nearly all the region of country lying 
between the Mediterranean and Perea. On the eastern and western 
faces of this immense square the prince is assigned his "portion" — 
the exact quantity not specified — but doubtless including all that 
triangular tract between the Holy Oblation and the Mediterranean, 
on the west ; and the immense parallelogram extending from the 
eastern side of the oblation, between the new divisions of Judah 
and Benjamin, entirely to the border of Perea. It will be seen on 
inspecting the accompanying map, that the lots respectively assigned 
to the different tribes of Israel, differ very materially in position 
from the former partition under Joshua — being arranged nearly in 
a reversed order. And although this great Oblation is situated much 
nearer the southern than the northern border of the newly appor- 
tioned Holy Land, yet there being only five divisions below and 
seven above — and the land also being much wider below than above- — 
the divisions are nearly equal in capacity, though so widely differing 
in length and breadth. And this remark will apply with equal truth 
to the entire country in its utmost boundaries, from the Euphrates 
to the Mediterranean in one direction, and from Mount Amanus to 
the Red Sea and Persian Gulf in the other — as it does to the 
restricted limits described by Ezekiel. 

The exact location of the Holy Oblation within this district of 
country, though so minutely described, is not very clearly delineated, 
and hence cannot be determined with absolute precision. But upon 
the supposition that the Temple is to occupy its former site, and the 
" very high mountain" to the south of which the Great City is to be 
located is Jebl Fureidis or Frank Mountain (Beth-haccerem), its 
northern boundary will run due east from a point on the Mediter- 
ranean coast about twenty miles a,bove Jaffa, to the western declivity 
of the Mountains of Ammon and Moab ; its eastern side will lie a 
few miles east of Jordan on this declivity ; and corner with the south 
line near the mouth of the river Arnon, thence crossing the Dead 
Sea, and passing a short distance south of Jebl Fureidis, and the 



JERUSALEM — AS IT IS TO BE. 



613 



Jehovah Shammah. 

ancient Jeba will unite with the western border eight or ten miles 
north of Beersheba. If " the living waters that go out from Jeru- 
salem," as recorded in the fourteenth chapter of the prophecy of 
Zechariah, be identical with the waters described by Ezekiel in 
the twelve first verses of the 48th chapter of his prophecy, as 
issuing from the Temple (and they undoubtedly are), then must the 
Temple be built upon its ancient foundations in the Holy City. 
And that the city is to be rebuilt upon its ancient site (and if not 
under the very metes and bounds that circumscribed it at the period 
of its subversion by Nebuchadnezzar, at least as extensively), is also 
evident. (Jer. xxxi. 38-40, and Zech. xiv. 10.) That the "very 
high mountain," on the south of which the prophet saw the future 
city in vision, can be no other than Jebl Fureidis (that celebrated 
signal station in days of yore), is sufficiently obvious from a con- 
sideration of the fact that there is no other mountain in all southern 
Palestine to which this expression could apply with the least pro- 
priety. A circumstance strongly corroborative of this conclusion, 
too, is found in the fact that this mountain is situated just on the 
northern border of the belt of country that is be levelled " as a 
plain — from Geba to Rimmon, south of Jerusalem." And for what 
purpose is this rugged region to be reduced to an even surface, but 
as a site for the vast millennial city — Jehovah Shammah ! 

This city of cities will cover an area of more than a hundred 
square miles ; and will number its inhabitants by millions. It can be 
rendered very accessible by a short railway from Al Arish, Askalon, or 
perhaps still better — Gaza — reputed the very best seaport on all the 
coast of Syria ; and the construction of a railroad to Ezion Geber, 
Solomon's celebrated seaport at the head of the Elanetic branch of 
the Red Sea, is also entirely practicable at a small cost. The com- 
merce of the East once flowed mainly through a channel almost 
identical in position with the route here indicated, between the 
Mediterranean and Indian Ocean ; and it is doubtless destined again 
to become the great highway of trade and travel between the East 
and the West. Such a city, in such a climate, in a position so 



614 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Waters issuing from Jerusalem. 

advantageous in a civil, commercial, and geographical point of view, 
might well claim to be the mistress of the world, when Judea shall 
have again become inhabited by its rightful owners. But still it is 
to its neighbor, a few miles to the north — the City of the Great 
King — the joy of the whole earth — that this supremacy is assigned 
in the coming age by Him who is Governor among the nations — the 
King of kings and Lord of lords. 

We learn from the prophecy of Zechariah (xiv. 8), that at the 
coming of the Lord two most copious perennial streams of water 
shall burst forth from Jerusalem — one going forth towards the Medi- 
terranean or "hinder sea," and the other towards the "former" or 
Dead Sea — developed apparently by the great earthquake.* And 
as this earthquake that shall rend Mount Olivet asunder and 
produce a "very great valley" running eastward, apparently for 
the purpose of conveying one of the life-giving streams to the 
parched desert below, will probably effect other physical changes in 
the immediate neighborhood of Jerusalem, as well as in the depres- 
sion of the land from Geba to Rimmon, it will be useless to specu- 
late as to the course the western stream will pursue — though it 
would seem from the 3d chapter of Joel, 8th verse, in connexion 
with the declarations of Ezekiel (xlvii. 1-12), that the course of 
the eastern river is very definitely marked out, though there is 
no valley in the neighborhood of Jerusalem known at the present 
day by the name there designated — Shittim. Wady anak-Nazal, 
however, would seem to be indicated as the most natural channel, 
and may originally have been called Shittim. 

We are not informed where the healing stream bifurcates — if 
indeed there be only one source of the waters — or in what part of 
the Temple enclosure, or of the city, the second fountain arises — 
if there be two distinct sources. Ezekiel only measures and de- 



* Quite a large river burst forth from a 
mountain in Armenia a few years ago : and a 
'arge stream of water is also said to have 



made its appearance in South America a few 
months since, during an earthquake. 



JERUSALEM — 



AS IT IS TO BE. 



615 



Origin and direction of the waters. 

scribes one ; but Zechariah clearly indicates the existence of two, 
and inasmuch as that which flows eastward arises on the east of the 
Holy House, that which flows westwardly probably rises west of 
that building. If so, it must necessarily fall into the Tyropoeon, 
and if left to itself, would naturally be carried down Wady en-Nair 
into the Dead Sea, unless it be conducted out of it westwardly by 
an aqueduct, or else the earthquake divert it in the same direction 
either by opening a new channel or by blocking up, or elevating 
some portion of the present Wady en-Nair. It would be perfectly 
practicable, with very little labor, to conduct a stream issuing from 
the Temple area to the region of the future Jehovah Shammah by 
a short serpentine canal conformed to the requirements of the 
ground about the upper portions of the Tyropoeon, Mount Zion, 
Hinnom, &c. — situated as the ground now is. This western stream 
may thus readily be conducted to the great city, and thence, after 
irrigating a large portion of the arid region of southern Judea, 
enter the Mediterranean at el-Arish, or by any of the numerous 
valleys that empty into the Mediterranean. We have no positive 
information as to the size of this river ; but, if it be as large as that 
emptying into the Dead Sea, it may be rendered very serviceable 
not only for the irrigation of a large district of country, but for 
internal boat navigation. If it be true that the desert of Arabia 
was once an inland sea or lake, and is still depressed below the 
level of the sea, may it not be re-filled either from the sea or by this 
river? It will be recollected that while Jerusalem is 3927 feet 
above the Dead Sea, its elevation above the Mediterranean is only 
2610 feet ; and that Jehovah Shammah will be much more depressed. 

The waters that issue out eastward seem to undergo no increase 
in passing from the altar through the surrounding buildings, nor 
perhaps for a farther distance of six hundred yards ; but at this 
point, at the least, the fountain becomes a stream ankle-deep ; 
twelve hundred yards from the sanctuary it becomes knee-deep, at 
a distance of eighteen hundred yards it is found to be loin-deep ; 
and when it is last measured, at a distance of two thousand four 



616 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Increase and rapid descent of the waters. 

hundred yards (more than one and a third miles) from the wall of 
the sanctuary (by which time it has passed through the cleft in 
Mount Olivet), it has become more than chin-deep — " risen waters 
to swim in, a river that could not be passed over." Whether the 
river becomes still deeper, and what is its width, we are not 
informed ; but it is probable that it receives no further increment. 
Its gradual augmentation thus far, at regular intervals of one-third 
of a mile, seems to be due to subterranean accessions received from 
the rent bowels of Mount Olivet.* 

Should this river rush immediately down this valley into the 
Dead Sea, it would produce a succession of rapids, cascades, and 
cataracts unequalled in all the world ; for the distance being only 
about fifteen or twenty miles, and the difference of altitude nearly 
four thousand feet, the rate of descent could not be less than an 
average of two hundred feet per mile, or one foot in twenty-six — a 
fall of four thousand feet in twenty miles ! while the entire fall in 
the Mississippi, throughout its whole course of two thousand miles, 
is only fifteen hundred and seventy-five feet ! What inconceivable 
power for the propulsion of machinery ! What teeming luxuriance 
must crown the banks of this fertilizing and vivifying stream, and 
especially if the waters be made to meander along the declivities 
of the once frightful barren and desolate desert ! How surpassingly 
beautiful the evergreen landscape in which this life-giving river 
sweetly meanders — where " grow all trees for meat whose leaf 



* It is not a little singular that on descend- 
ing a few yards below the surface of the earth, 
amongst some riven rocks, in a valley called 
Wady Anak Nazal, leading up to Mount 
Olivet, opposite Jerusalem, one may hear the 
faint ripple of a subterranean stream. By-the- 
bye, may not this Nazal have some connexion 
with the " Azal" to which the " valley of the 
mountains" is to extend? (See Zech. xiv. 5.) 
The transition from Azal to Nazal is by no 
means too violent for a Hebrew name to 
andergo in the mouth of an Arab. And 



besides — as the valley takes its name from an 
ain or fountain on its border, the n may pro- 
perly belong to the ain, and the difficulty in 
distinctly separating the n from the a in pro- 
nunciation, may have led to its permanent 
connexion ; but be this as it may, it is situated 
due east of Jerusalem in the precise direction 
indicated by the prophet. The traveller going 
down to Jericho will pass this valley about 
two miles below Ain el Horth (the Apostles' 
Fount), where it enters into Wady el Horth — 
written el Haud on some maps. 



JERUSALEM 



— AS IT IS TO 



BE. 



617 



Effect of the waters. Highway of Holiness. 

fadeth not, neither shall the fruit thereof be consumed — bringing 
forth new fruit according to his months — the fruit thereof for meat 
and the leaf thereof for medicine !" (xlvi. 12.) Then indeed will 
" the wilderness and the solitary place be glad, and the desert 
rejoice and blossom as the rose !" These are the gladdening waters 
of which the exulting Psalmist spoke in vision — " There is a river 
the streams whereof shall make glad the city of God, the Holy 
Place of the tabernacles of the Most High." (Ps. xlvi. 4.) 

We are not positively told that the waters issuing to the west will 
possess those wondrous properties that characterize the eastern river ; 
but it is altogether a legitimate inference, that they will be simi- 
larly endowed. And if on the banks of this refreshing and fructi- 
fying stream, adorned with those health-imparting and life-giving 
trees, the Highway of Holiness shall lead from Yehovah Shammah 
to the Holy City and Temple, through the desert of Tekoah, thus 
really become "an house of prayer for all nations," what a para- 
disaical avenue would conduct the millenarian pilgrim up to the 
House of the Lord ! Thus shall " the ransomed of the Lord return, 
and come to Zion with songs and everlasting joy upon their heads !" 
" And it shall come to pass .... in the last days, that the Moun- 
tain of the Lord's House shall be established on the top of the 
mountains and shall be exalted above the hills, and all nations shall 
flow unto it. And many people shall go and say, < Come ye, and let 
us go up to the mountain of the Lord, to the house of the God of 
Jacob, and he will teach us of his ways, and we will walk in his 
paths ; for out of Zion shall go forth the law, and the word of the 
law from Jerusalem.' " (Is. ii. 2, 3.) 

" See the streams of living waters, 

Springing from eternal love, 
Well supply thy sons and daughters, 

And all fear of drought remove : 
Who can faint while such a river 

Ever flows their thirst t' assuage ! 
Grace, which, like the Lord the giver, 

Never fails from age to age " 



618 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



The Dead Sea healed. 

Great as are the temporal blessings of the Millennial age, greater 
by far are its spiritual blessings. Satan being then bound, and the 
evidences of the Lord's presence ever before their eyes, who can 
form even the faintest conception of the blessedness and splendor 
of the glorious era when the whole earth shall be filled with the 
knowledge of " the glory of the Lord, as the waters cover the sea !" 
For " wisdom and knowledge shall be stability of thy times and the 
strength of salvation." 

The waters of the Dead Sea would not only be "healed," but 
doubtless much increased in depth and extended in length : for the 
latter rain being also fully restored would form in concurrence with 
these copious waters, far more than a counterbalance to the evapo- 
ration by which this mysterious sheet of water is now restricted to 
its narrow limits ; and being walled in by perpendicular cliffs tower- 
ing to the height of one or two thousand feet on each side, while 
its breadth would not be much increased, its length must necessarily 
be greatly extended — particularly towards the south. . It would 
seem even from existing indications, that its length was formerly 
much greater than at present. And such a copious accession would 
doubtless cause its permanent outflow into the Red Sea — thus 
effectually sweeping away its bitter waters. 

Very considerable geological changes will doubtless be produced 
by the great convulsions that accompany the subsidence and level- 
ling of the tract of country lying between the Mediterranean and 
the Dead Sea, under the parallels of latitude separating Jeba and 
Rimmon. And one highly beneficial result, amongst many remark- 
able consequences of the earthquake, will, no doubt, be a literal 
verification of a prophecy of Isaiah (xxxv. 6, 7), that has hereto- 
fore been regarded as exclusively figurative — " in the wilderness 
shall waters break out, and streams in the desert. And the parched 
ground become a pool, and the thirsty land springs." How glow- 
ingly is the prosperity of the land and nation of Israel set forth by 
the prophets, when Judah and Israel shall have been restored and 



JERUSALEM — 



AS IT IS TO BE. 



619 



The luminous cloud overhanging Jerusalem. 

brought in complete subjection to their prince, David — the Beloved — ■ 
i. e. the Prince Messiah. (Is. Ix. &c.) 

But the most interesting and perhaps the most marvellous circum- 
stance attending the Millennial condition of Jerusalem, remains yet 
to be mentioned. We are informed by Isaiah in the 4th chapter 
of his prophecy, that « when the Lord shall have washed away the 
filth of the daughter of Zion, and shall have purged the blood of 
Jerusalem from the midst thereof by the spirit of judgment and by 
the spirit of burning .... he will create upon every dwelling-place 
of Mount Zion, and upon her assemblies, a cloud and smoke by 
day, and the shining of a flame of fire by night : for upon all the 
glory shall be a covering. And there shall be a tabernacle for a 
shadow in the day-time from the heat, and. for a place of refuge, 
and for a covert from storm and from rain" (3, 6) ... . " the Lord 
shall arise upon thee, and his glory shall be seen upon thee ; and 
the Gentiles shall come to thy light, and kings to the brightness of 
thy rising." (Ix. 1, 8.) " The sun shall be no more thy light by 
day : neither for brightness shall the moon give light unto thee ; 
but the Lord shall be unto thee an everlasting light, and thy God 
thy glory : thy sun shall no more go down, neither shall thy moon 
withdraw itself, for the Lord shall be thine everlasting light, and 
the days of thy mourning shall be ended : thy people also shall be 
all righteous, and they shall inherit the land for ever — the branch 
of my planting, the work of my hands that I may be glorified : a 
little one shall become a thousand, and a small one a strong nation : 
I the Lord will hasten it in his time." (Ix. 19, 22.) "Moreover, 
the light of the moon shall be as the light of the sun, and the light 
of the sun shall be seven-fold in the day that the Lord bindeth up 
the breach of his people, and healeth the stroke of their wound." 
(xxx. 26.) " Then the moon shall be confounded and the sun 
ashamed, when the Lord of Hosts shall reign in Mount Zion, and 
in Jerusalem, and before his ancients gloriously." (xxiv. 23.) 
From these passages it would appear, that when the Lord shall 
again record his name on "his dwelling-place in Zion" — (for "this 



(320 



CITY OF THE GREAT KING. 



Millennial phenomena. 

is the hill which God desireth to dwell in — yea, the Lord will dwell 
in it for ever"*) — there will be a revival, on a magnificent scale, 
of the " Glory of the Lord" as it anciently rested over the Taber- 
nacle in the wilderness — " a pillar of cloud by day and of fire by 
night" — such a manifestation of Deity, perhaps, as was once seen 
in Eden ! May it not be to this Shechinah, thus overshadowing the 
Holy City as a glorious luminary canopy, that the astonishing 
change of climate is to be ascribed ? And need any more direct 
divine interposition be invoked in explanation of the wonderful 
effects wrought on the whole vegetable and animal kingdom in rela- 
tion to the fertility of the soil, the domestication of destructive 
monsters of the forest, the transmutation of poisonous reptiles into 
innocent creatures, and the prosperity, happiness, and longevity 
of its inhabitants. Should any other influence be deemed neces- 
sary, we have it, without inconsiderately ascribing these wonderful 
changes to such an alteration of the axis of the earth, as would 
make the ecliptic and equator coincide (as some Millenarian writers 
rather fancifully conjecture). 

Has not the Lord promised, in speaking of this very matter as 
portrayed in the 11th chapter of Isaiah, that he will make a cove- 
nant with the beasts of the field, and the fowls of heaven, and the 
creeping things of the ground ? (Hos. ii. 18.) There is no calcu- 
lating the wonderful consequences that would inevitably result from 
the alteration of electrical, thermal, and magnetic agencies, to say 



* " Thus saith the Lord, heaven is my 
throne, and the earth is my footstool we are 
not, therefore, to infer from these and similar 
passages, that Jehovah will dwell at Jeru- 
salem in any other manner than hy delega- 
tion and the symbols of his presence. Nor 
do the Scriptures, rightly construed, intimate 
that the Saviour will actually dwell upon the 
earth in propria persona — as contended by 
many — or that he will ever be seen upou earth 
except at Jerusalem, which, however, there 



is every reason to believe he will occasionally 
and perhaps statedly visit in personal mani- 
festations to receive the homage and adora- 
tion of his earthly subjects. The Throne of 
God and the Lamb — where of course is the 
real seat of the Divine Government — is the 
Heavenly Jerusalem above — the abode of the 
redeemed, whence, as kings and priests, and 
the partners of his throne, they will reign 
with Christ over the earth for ever and ever. 



JERUSALEM - AS IT iS TO BE. 



621 



"The restitution of all things" the great desideratum. 

nothing of those of celestial light from the overhanging Golden 
City in a meteorological and climatic point of view ! And who can 
divine the wonderful change that will be wrought not only on man, 
but in the brute creation also, and indeed even in the vegetable 
kingdom, by the life-giving stream that flows from the oracle of 
God ! Would it be any marvel that the carnivorous beasts should 
not only become herbivorous by feeding upon the vegetation grow- 
ing on the banks of this marvellous water, but have their entire 
natures changed into something like what it probably was when 
Adam gave them names in the garden of Eden ? If the juice of 
the grape when fermented is capable of producing an effect so 
astonishing upon man — mentally, physically, and morally — is there 
anything unreasonable in the supposition that the water of this 
river and the vegetable productions on its banks — which are not 
only healing but life-giving — should effect such a change even in 
ravenous beasts and venomous reptiles ? Certainly not : « because 
their ivaters they issue out of the sanctuary" — a fact to which the 
prophet directly ascribes their wonderful properties. If the pro- 
perties of the nitrous oxide (or exhilarating gas) are so different 
from those of the atmosphere (though formed of the same elements, 
and differing only in their relative proportions), why should not a 
slight change in the waters of the sanctuary be adequate to the pro- 
duction of all the effects ascribed to this Millennial "aqua vitaiV 

There is no aspect in which the Millennial age can be regarded, 
that is not richly suggestive of the most pleasing and profitable 
themes of contemplation. Satan being bound, and man brought into 
complete subjection to Jesus Emmanuel, the whole creation, which 
had hitherto groaned in travail on account of man's sin, is vocal 
with praise — " the times of the restitution of all things" having 
now arrived ! Who, that has a heart to feel, can refrain from 
praying and laboring for " a consummation so devoutly to be 
wished !" 



INDEX. 



Absalom's Pillar, 178. 
Aceldama, 207. 
jElia Capitolina, 333. 
iEnon. See Enon. 
Ain-Aleek, 547. 

Betir, 549. 

ed-Durrage, 516. 

Hammam esh-Shefa, 528. 

Hanniyeh, 547. 

Lifta, 544. 

Yalo, 547, 106. 
Akra, 86, 108. 
Amphitheater, 174. 
Antonia, 245. 

Aqueduct of Pontius Pilate, 315. 

Stone, from Etham, 316. 

of Felix Fabri, 558. 

Herodium, 318. 

on Zion, 331. 
Archives, Repository of, 172. 
Armory, 155. 
Ascension, Mount of, 68. 
Ash-Mounds, 76. 
Ashes Valley of Kidron, 96. 

Bahurim, 563. 
Baris, 165. 
Bath, Baldwin's. 

Bathsheba's, 539. 
Baths, 542, 478, 448. 
Bazaars, &c, 175, 433. 
Bethany, 72. 
Beth-Jazzek, 175. 
Bethphage, 65. 
Bethzo, 149. 
Bezetha, 86, 117. 
Birket Israel, 537. 

Cotton Megara, 540. 

el-Hijjeh, 540. 

es-Sultan, 318, 327, 539, 553. 
Hammam Sitte Myriam, 541. 



Boundary between Judah and Benjamin, 
105. 

Bridge, Red Heifer, 102, 282. 

Tyropceon, 103. 
Brook Kidron, 301. 

that flowed through the land, 304. 

Calendar of vegetable kingdom, 419. 
Calvary, 78. 

Camp of the Assyrians, 142. 
Pompey, 143. 
Titus, 143. 
Castle of Zion, 164, 165. 
Cave in Bezetha, 458. 
of Jeremiah, 468. 
Pelagius, 203, 445. 
the Noble, 497. 
Chamber of the Chamberlain, 173. 
Charnel-house of the Lion, 215. 
Churches, map of city under Crusaders. 
Church of the Holy Sepulchre, 219. 

plan of, 231. 
shrines of, 234 

Circus, 175. 
Cistern, Helena's, 539. 
Hippie, 538. 
Royal, 528. 
Citadel of Zion, 164. 
Climate of Palestine, 49. 
Ccenaculum, 446. 
Coenopolis, 117. 
College, 174. 
Consulates, 600. 

Austrian, 600. 
English, 600. 
French, 600. 
Prussian, 600. 
Russian, 448. 
Convent, Armenian, 445. 

Greek, 446, 447. 
Latin, 449. 

(623) 



624 



INDEX. 



Cotton Grotto, 458. 
Council House, 172. 
Crucifixion, location of, (2). 
Crusades, chronology of, 345. 

Ditch between two walls, 312 
Dragon's Well, 315, 149. 

El-Khalah, 482. 
El-Messahney Tomb, 183. 
Enon, 558. 
En-Rogel, 314. 
Erebinthi, 144. 

Es-Sakhrah, 242, 272, 496, 499. 
Evil Council, Hill of, 75. 
Excursion to Gaza, 571. 

Fort of Zion, 164. 
Fountain of Nephtoah, 544. 

St. Philip, 547. 
the Virgin, 516. 
Sealed, 551, 552, 553. 

Gareb Hill, 76. 
Gate, Bird, 156. 

Corner, 153. 

Dung, 149. 

«ast, 150. 

Ephraim, 154. 

Essenes, 149. 

First, 153. 

Fish, 153, 301, 323. 

Gennath, 159, 225. 

High, of the House of the Lord, 
162. 

Higher, of the House of the Lord, 

162. 
Horse, 152. 
Intermural. 150. 
M.ddle, 162. 
Miphkad, 156. 
New, 162. 
of Benjamin, 153. 

High, by palace, 161. 
Guard, 161. 
Joshua, 162. 
the Foundation, 161. 
Old, 153. 
Prison, 156. 
Second, 156. 
Shallecheth, 162. 
Sheep, 152. 
Sur, 161. 
Valley, 149. 
Water, 151, 319. 
Gates of Modern Jerusalem, 403. 

the Temple, 252, 254, 255, 257, 
487, 489, 490, 507. 
Gethsemane, Garden of, 63. 
Gihon Valley, 93. 
Goath,»76, 118. 



Golgotha, 78. 
Gymnasium, 100. 

Haanoth, 268. 
Haram-es-Sherif, 470. 

colonnade and other buildings, 501. 

dimensions of, 484. 

gates of, 486. 

platform of Mosk of Omar, 495. 
walls, 486, 494. 
High places, 62. 
Hinnom, declivities of, 74. 

Valley of, 90. 
Hippodrome, 174. 
Holy Oblation, 611. 
House of Azuppim, 173. 
David, 150. 

Eliashib, the high priest, 156, 
82. 

the Forest of Lebanon, 155. 
Mighty, 155. 

Impluvium of the Temple, 268, 298. 

Jerusalem, name and etymology, 43. 

its geographical and chorogra- 
phical location, 104, 48, 45. 
local features, 46, 48. 
description by Aristeas, 47. 

Tacitus, 135. 
Herodotus, 135. 
Josephus, 137. 
climate and productions, 50, 
414. 

from Hadrian to Omar, 324. 
account of by Arculf, 337. 

Willibard, 342. 

Bernard the Wise, 
343. 

under Christian domination, 
361. 

notices by Saewulf and Si- 

gord, 361. 
notices by a Mussulman, 363. 

Benjamin of Tude- 

la, 367. 
a Norman chroni- 
cler, 368. 
Sir John Maunde- 

ville, 377. 
Medjr ed-Din, 378. 
under the Turks, 406. 
notices by Maundrel, 406. 
Modern, its quarters, 437. 
its walls and gates, 431. 
Christian, 444. 
Moslem, 450. 
its moral condition, 594. 
Millennial, 614. 

Jebus, 110. 
Jehovah-Jireh, 109. 



INDEX. 



625 



Jehovah-Shammah, 613. 
Judgment Hall, 165, 286. 

Kidron Brook, 301. 
King's Dale, 92. 

Entry, 162. 

Garden, 92. 

High House, 156. 

House, by the Horse Gate, 173. 

House (Palace), 166. 

Wine Presses, 93. 
Kubbet es-Sakhrah, 495. 
Kubr el-Moluk, 191. 

Lacus Quidam, 323. 
Lavatory, 62, 331. 
Lepers, 454. 

Levels, comparative, 103. 
Lower City, 108, 115. 
Lunar Stations, 61. 

Maktesh, 100, 157, 173. 
Market-Place, open, 175. 

Timber, Wood, &c, 175. 

Upper, 175. 
Mesjid el-Aksa, 471. 
Meteorological observations, 415, 427. 
Metrical system of the Jews, 246. 
Mikvah, 312. 

Millennial division of the Holy Land, 608. 

Millo, 113, 165. 

Minarets, 451, 503. 

Mint, 173, 157. 

Missionary operations, 580. 

Mission Premises, 438. 

Moat of Antonia, 321, 537. 

Molten Sea, 298. 

Monument of Absalom, 178. 

Alexander Janneus, 176. 

Ananus, 178. 

Herod, 176. 

John Hyrcanus, 176. 

Simon Maccabeus, 176. 

the Fuller, 177. 
Moriah, Land of, 57. 

Mount, 86, 108. 
Mosk of Abu-Bekr, 501. 
el-Aksa, 500. 
Mograbin, 501. 
Omar, 495. 
Motza, 315. 

Mount of Ascension, 68. 

Corruption, 64. 

Natatoria, 541. 
Neby Daud, 208. 
Nether Jerusalem, 456. 

Offense, Mount of, 64. 
Olivet— Mount of Olives, 59. 
40 



Ophel, Mount, 86, 114. 

Palace appertaining to the House, 170. 
of Agrippa, 168. 
Berenice, 169. 
Grapte, 172. 

Herod the Great, Upper, 169. 

Monobasus, 171. 

Pontius Pilate, 171. 

Queen Helena, 171. 

Solomon, 166. 

the High Priest, 171. 

Maccabean or Asmonean. 
168, 170. 

Parbar, 99. 

Pastophoria,, 260. 

Piscina a Francis inventa, 323. 

Interior, 322. 
Pool, Amygdalon, 320. 

Great, 318, 327, 539. 
King's, 151, 303. 
Lower, 313, 539, 541. 
of Bethesda, 321, 323, 325. 
Gihon, Upper, 304, 540. 
Hezekiah, 536. 
Jeremiah, 540. 
Shiloah, 312. 
Siloam, 311, 524. 
Struthion, 322. 
the Mekhemey, 310, 538. 
Old, 314. 

Serpent's, 319, 329. 
that was made, 155, 313. 
Pools of Solomon, 554. 
Population of Ancient Jerusalem, 144. 

Modern Jerusalem. 
Pretorium, 165. 
Prison, 156. 

common, 156. 
Proseuchas, 61. 

Quarry Cave of Jerusalem, 118, 458. 
Quarters of the City, 108. 

Rain, latter, 53. 

Remains at Damascus Gate, 132. 
Rephaim Valley, 88. 
Repository of the Archives, 172. 
Rock Mound, 76. 
Royal Cistern, 525. 

Sabbath-day's journey, 69. 
Salem, 107. 
Salim, &c, &c, 563. 
Sanhedrim Chamber, 172. 
Scopus, 74. 

Scribes' Chamber, 156. 

Sepulchral Caverns of the Kings, 196 

Sepulchre of David, 155, 197. 

Simon the Just, 198. 



626 



INDEX. 



Sepulchres, 180. 

of the Kings of Judah, 196. 
Serai or Seraglio, 451. 
Shaveh, 92. 
Sheep Market, 115. 
Silla, 113. 

Siloam, Pool of, 311. 
Sion. See Zion. 
Stairs of David, 150. 
Stairways, Winding, 133. 
Statistics, 588. 

Street, Bakers', Strangers', &c, 175, 176. 
East, 175. 

of the House of God, 175, 261. 
Water Gate, 151, 319. 
Streets of Modern Jerusalem, 433. 
Stronghold of Zion, 164. 
Substructions of el-Aksa, 509. 

Temple Mount, 503. 
Subterranean excavations, 456. 
Suburbs, 99. 
Synagogues, 174. 

Tabernse, 268. 
Temple, 239. 

adaptation of, to Haram, 273. 
courts and appurtenances of, 283. 
described by Aristeas, 249. 

Josephus, 250. 
Tacitus and Heca- 
teus, 250. 
in Chronicles, Kings, 
&c, 274. 
furniture of, 289. 
gates, 281. 
location, 241, 271. 
measurements of, 262. 
Millennial, 607. 
various phases of the, 240. 
walls, 273. 
Theater, 174. 

Threshing-floor of Oman, 109, 243, 497. 
Throne of the Governor, 153. 
Tomb at el-Messahney, Jewish, 183. 
of Absalom, 200. 
Ananus, 207. 
Helena, 187. 
Huldah, 203, 456. 
James, 203. 
Jehosaphat, 199, 202. 
Zechariah, 200. 
Tombs and Sepulchral Monuments, 179. 
in Ben-hinnom, 205. 
the Judges, 186. 
Kings, 191. 
Prophets, 198. 

Tophet, 89. 

Tower, Great, that lieth out, 151. 
of Antonia, 243. 
David, 164. 



Tower of Furnaces, 153. 

Hannaneel, 152. 

Hippicus, 147, 169. 

Mariamne, 158. 

Meah, 152. 

Ophel, 152. 

Phasaelus, 158, 169. 

Psephinos, 159. 

Siloam, 149. 

Strato, 166. 

Tancred, 433. 

the Corner, 160. 

Women, 160. 
that lieth out, 151. 
Towers of Modern Jerusalem, 430. 
Turkish bath, 478. 
Tyropoeon, 97. 

Upper City, 112. 
Upper Market, 113. 

Valley of Ashes of Kidron, 96. 

Cheesemongers, 97. 

Dead Bodies and Ashes, 95, 202 

Hinnom, 90. 

Jehosaphat, 91. 

Kidron, 91. 

Shaveh, 92. 

Rephaim, 88. 

Tophet, 89. 

Wady Farah, 558. 
Wailing-place, 595. 
Wall, Broad, 153. 

First or Old, 129. 
of Circumvallation, 140. 
Jebus, 120. 
Ophel, 122. 
Salem, 118. 
Zion, 121. 
Second, 131. 
Third, 134. 
Walls, according to Josephus, 129, 134. 
dedication of, 127. 
from Nehemiah to Agrippa, 123, 
128. 

of Modern Jerusalem, 430. 
Nehemiah's reconnoissance of, 123. 
reconstruction by Nehemiah, 124. 
Water, a certain, 576. 

resources of Jerusalem, 291. 
Waters of Ancient Jerusalem, 291. 

testimony of Aristeas, 296. 

Eusebius, 299. 
Strabo, Tacitus, 

&c, 292. 
the Bordeaux Pil- 
grim, &c, 299. 
the Talmud, 297 

Etham, 329. 



INDEX. 



627 



Waters of Gibeon, 549. 

Gihon, 304. 

Herod's palace-grounds, 331. 
Mispah, 550. 
Modern Jerusalem, 512. 
the Temple, 298. 
Well, Dragon's, 149, 315. 
of Flagellation, 513. 
Healings, 528. 
Nehemiah or Joab, 513. 



Well of Souls, 498. 

Wells of Haram es-Sherif, 527, 536. 

Xystus, 100. 

Zahara Hill, 117, 468. 

Valley, 403. 
Zemzam, 523, 528, 560. 
Zion, Mount, 85, 112. 



THE END. 



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